Oh my gosh, what wonderful shots of a beautiful place. Those rolling hills are incredible. I didn't even know this place existed until your video. I don't have an official bucket list, but we'll definitely be visiting the Palouse at some point.
I second CJ’s comments about the Palouse, our leader, Hudson and his amazing sidekick, Rick LePage. We had a wonderful time scouting the area looking for good compositions in addition to the iconic Palouse Falls and Steptoe Butte. So glad I had the opportunity to go on this workshop to make great images, and meet some wonderful photographers.
Thanks David. I'm so glad you could come all the way from North Carolina to tromp around the Northwest with me. I enjoyed hanging out and shooting with you. Love that profile pic from our bird shoot in Charleston. :-)
Great Video Hudson. I went to the Palouse the first of April this year. The falls was ripping with water after all the rain they had. The spray was all most coming back up to the top of the falls and the roar was defying. I went to Steptoe butte, but it was a monsoon that day, so I will be going back in June. Your new subscriber.
Hudson, Great video of the Palouse. Looked to be a great trip and experience. Quick question on a different subject. Have you ever photographed the Owyhee Canyon and if so any advice? I am heading there in a couple of weeks ans was looking for some insights.
Nice place and beautiful shots. I also bought the RC-5570 on your recommendation and that bowl adapter is really a problem, I called Robus and they have forwarded the request to design engineers with your video link. I am looking to buy RRS TA-3 cause it comes with the bowl adapter and has a bubble level too, so can be used with ball-heads too. I also noticed that there are some very small holes at the end of bottom leg sections. They might take water inside legs. Wouldn't it be damaging the legs?
I wish I had a tripod that was watertight when the threads are closed. Even my Gitzo and Induro legs take on water. It's critical to grease the threads and clean the internals after much salt water use. I always start with the lowest legs extended in salt water and I don't collapse them at the end of the shoot. Rinse them in fresh water and leave the leg locks open overnight for things to dry. Tripods require maintenance if you use them in rough conditions. I'm glad they are listening, and I hope they redesign the captive bowl to allow more tilt. I could see some situations where the limited play could be a frustration. The Sunwayfoto bowl works well if you need the solution fast and at $49 extra, the Robus system is still a steal. I'm not a fan of the RRS TA3. I think the Induro and Manfrotto versions are better at less than half the price. The Induro has the bowl as well for $100: bit.ly/IndHalfBall The RRS is pretty -- and expensive of course.
Thanks for replying. Well I am not too concerned about leg locks. I was referring the holes at the bottom of the legs just above the feet, (probably to hold the leg's base piece which takes the feet in). This means you have to remove feet and dry it out each time you use it in water. Not sure if I should be concerned about that or not, but the guy at B&H said this tripod is not meant to be used in water and he would not recommend that to be used in water and streams :). I intend to use it with a ball head so I need a bubble level on the half ball too to level the base. Induro and Mnafrotto versions don't come with bubble level. The only alternative i could find was the gitzo version GSLVLS but it was same price as RRS TA-3.
@@haiderabbas96 I actually think those are weep holes for both air pressure and draining right above the threads for the foot (which is pretty solid. The point I'm making about the locks is just that I frequently get water inside all my tripods when working in deeper streams and tidal zones. None of them are likely to be "made for working in water" I don't think the Robus is any less than others and those tiny weep hole above the foot threads don't worry me much. If I work in salt water I absolutely rinse everything out and pulling your feet is good to do then too anyway as those threads are not ones you want rust locked. If you want to avoid the problem, just put a tiny bit of gaffe tape over them for water work. It's always good to have some in the bag. Hmmm... All the fluid heads I work with have built in bubble levels. Are you working without a head, or with on without a level?
Hudson Henry Photography Thanks for replying in detail. I tried the manfrotto fluid head you recommended, didn’t work for me as it wasn’t locking it down. A tiny weight of the hand was enough to move the camera from the position after locking down hard. I used 70-200 f4 on D750. On top of that it was all greasy and I had to wash my hands several times :). I have ordered RRS BH-55 with TA-3, I really wanted to give it a try. I like the flexibility of the ball head and for multi row panoramas, which I don’t usually do, I can spend a bit more time and be more careful and take some extra shots. I already tried gaffer tape but it wasn’t closing down the leg with it, I am looking for a permanent solution as I live in Florida and visit beaches very often.
@@haiderabbas96 Wow, did you buy it 2nd hand? Mine locks down a 400 2.8 with a D5 no problem. Greasy? Are you serious? One of the benefits of the Induro and Manfrotto half balls are three set screws that drive up into the base of the head you set on them. That way you just gently screw the head on and torque those three screws to lock it from slipping. I was really surprised the RRS version doesn't have that. I've had literally hundreds of photographers tell me how much they love that head after switching from good balls and thank me for showing them the option. Your's is the first negative comment I've had yet. Several close friends have sold thier BH55s on Ebay. I know I can't imagine going back to a ball head. I sold my Arca Swiss Z1 long ago. I can't stand the flop from the imbalance, the need for a gimbal when I go long to track anything, the inability to do video moves, and the pain in the ass that is staying level when I simply want to shift a bit to the left or up. No offense of course. If you love it and it works, stick with it. Different tastes keep the world interesting.
On my D750 i've use my 20mm1.8 prime for milkyway and had great results but haven't been able to try it on the Z6 yet. Can you compare the 20mm with the Samyang 14mm?
The 20 1.8 is great in the center but has REALLY bad coma in the corners at wide apertures. It makes the stars look like they have little wings. You can minimize it by stopping down, but not till about F4. The Rokinon 14 2.4 is great at 2.8 and not bad at 2.4. Virtually no coma I can see. That and the Rokinon is 30% wider to get more in the frame and about 10 seconds more shutter opening without creating visible star trails. It's a really great astro lens. The sigma art 14mm f1.4 is probably better, but huge and expensive.
My middle son lives just outside of Spokane; so next visit, we are heading south to Palous! The Rokinon 14mm: I had one for my Canon 5D4 and had to send it back to B&H; the vignetting was HORRIBLE! Oh well, good yours works!
This is probably a stupid question but can you explain how you're using three pieces of tape to mark infinity? Seems like it would be just two. One on the focusing ring and one on the barrell that need to line up. What am I missing?
Ha, you're right. No I'm anal. I cut a little triangle to place on the barrel lined up on the body's focus mark, then another two at 90 degrees off that in each direction, so I can easily see it no matter what orientation I have the camera even up high above me on a tall tripod using the LCD to frame. It also provides redundancy if one of the pieces were to come off.
Zoom in to 100% on a distant subject and focus it as sharp as you possibly can. Tape the barrel with a big peice of gaffe tape so it can't move, recheck and put your little pieces of tape on. :)
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Oh my gosh, what wonderful shots of a beautiful place. Those rolling hills are incredible. I didn't even know this place existed until your video. I don't have an official bucket list, but we'll definitely be visiting the Palouse at some point.
Awesome Palouse workshop. Great locations. Super participants. Fantastic workshop leader.
CJ Glynn Photography It was a pleasure meeting you.
Thanks CJ. It was awesome having you along as usual!
I second CJ’s comments about the Palouse, our leader, Hudson and his amazing sidekick, Rick LePage. We had a wonderful time scouting the area looking for good compositions in addition to the iconic Palouse Falls and Steptoe Butte. So glad I had the opportunity to go on this workshop to make great images, and meet some wonderful photographers.
Thanks David. I'm so glad you could come all the way from North Carolina to tromp around the Northwest with me. I enjoyed hanging out and shooting with you. Love that profile pic from our bird shoot in Charleston. :-)
Beautiful shots. Thanks for the video.
Great Video Hudson. I went to the Palouse the first of April this year. The falls was ripping with water after all the rain they had. The spray was all most coming back up to the top of the falls and the roar was defying. I went to Steptoe butte, but it was a monsoon that day, so I will be going back in June. Your new subscriber.
have no idea what these places are but thanks for introducing them
Hudson,
Great video of the Palouse. Looked to be a great trip and experience. Quick question on a different subject. Have you ever photographed the Owyhee Canyon and if so any advice? I am heading there in a couple of weeks ans was looking for some insights.
Hey Lew, thanks. No, but it's on my list. Let me know how it goes. Sounds like an exciting trip!
Nice place and beautiful shots. I also bought the RC-5570 on your recommendation and that bowl adapter is really a problem, I called Robus and they have forwarded the request to design engineers with your video link. I am looking to buy RRS TA-3 cause it comes with the bowl adapter and has a bubble level too, so can be used with ball-heads too. I also noticed that there are some very small holes at the end of bottom leg sections. They might take water inside legs. Wouldn't it be damaging the legs?
I wish I had a tripod that was watertight when the threads are closed. Even my Gitzo and Induro legs take on water. It's critical to grease the threads and clean the internals after much salt water use. I always start with the lowest legs extended in salt water and I don't collapse them at the end of the shoot. Rinse them in fresh water and leave the leg locks open overnight for things to dry. Tripods require maintenance if you use them in rough conditions.
I'm glad they are listening, and I hope they redesign the captive bowl to allow more tilt. I could see some situations where the limited play could be a frustration. The Sunwayfoto bowl works well if you need the solution fast and at $49 extra, the Robus system is still a steal. I'm not a fan of the RRS TA3. I think the Induro and Manfrotto versions are better at less than half the price. The Induro has the bowl as well for $100: bit.ly/IndHalfBall The RRS is pretty -- and expensive of course.
Thanks for replying. Well I am not too concerned about leg locks. I was referring the holes at the bottom of the legs just above the feet, (probably to hold the leg's base piece which takes the feet in). This means you have to remove feet and dry it out each time you use it in water. Not sure if I should be concerned about that or not, but the guy at B&H said this tripod is not meant to be used in water and he would not recommend that to be used in water and streams :).
I intend to use it with a ball head so I need a bubble level on the half ball too to level the base. Induro and Mnafrotto versions don't come with bubble level. The only alternative i could find was the gitzo version GSLVLS but it was same price as RRS TA-3.
@@haiderabbas96 I actually think those are weep holes for both air pressure and draining right above the threads for the foot (which is pretty solid. The point I'm making about the locks is just that I frequently get water inside all my tripods when working in deeper streams and tidal zones. None of them are likely to be "made for working in water" I don't think the Robus is any less than others and those tiny weep hole above the foot threads don't worry me much. If I work in salt water I absolutely rinse everything out and pulling your feet is good to do then too anyway as those threads are not ones you want rust locked. If you want to avoid the problem, just put a tiny bit of gaffe tape over them for water work. It's always good to have some in the bag.
Hmmm... All the fluid heads I work with have built in bubble levels. Are you working without a head, or with on without a level?
Hudson Henry Photography Thanks for replying in detail. I tried the manfrotto fluid head you recommended, didn’t work for me as it wasn’t locking it down. A tiny weight of the hand was enough to move the camera from the position after locking down hard. I used 70-200 f4 on D750. On top of that it was all greasy and I had to wash my hands several times :).
I have ordered RRS BH-55 with TA-3, I really wanted to give it a try. I like the flexibility of the ball head and for multi row panoramas, which I don’t usually do, I can spend a bit more time and be more careful and take some extra shots. I already tried gaffer tape but it wasn’t closing down the leg with it, I am looking for a permanent solution as I live in Florida and visit beaches very often.
@@haiderabbas96 Wow, did you buy it 2nd hand? Mine locks down a 400 2.8 with a D5 no problem. Greasy? Are you serious?
One of the benefits of the Induro and Manfrotto half balls are three set screws that drive up into the base of the head you set on them. That way you just gently screw the head on and torque those three screws to lock it from slipping. I was really surprised the RRS version doesn't have that.
I've had literally hundreds of photographers tell me how much they love that head after switching from good balls and thank me for showing them the option. Your's is the first negative comment I've had yet. Several close friends have sold thier BH55s on Ebay. I know I can't imagine going back to a ball head. I sold my Arca Swiss Z1 long ago. I can't stand the flop from the imbalance, the need for a gimbal when I go long to track anything, the inability to do video moves, and the pain in the ass that is staying level when I simply want to shift a bit to the left or up. No offense of course. If you love it and it works, stick with it. Different tastes keep the world interesting.
On my D750 i've use my 20mm1.8 prime for milkyway and had great results but haven't been able to try it on the Z6 yet. Can you compare the 20mm with the Samyang 14mm?
The 20 1.8 is great in the center but has REALLY bad coma in the corners at wide apertures. It makes the stars look like they have little wings. You can minimize it by stopping down, but not till about F4. The Rokinon 14 2.4 is great at 2.8 and not bad at 2.4. Virtually no coma I can see. That and the Rokinon is 30% wider to get more in the frame and about 10 seconds more shutter opening without creating visible star trails. It's a really great astro lens. The sigma art 14mm f1.4 is probably better, but huge and expensive.
My middle son lives just outside of Spokane; so next visit, we are heading south to Palous! The Rokinon 14mm: I had one for my Canon 5D4 and had to send it back to B&H; the vignetting was HORRIBLE! Oh well, good yours works!
This is probably a stupid question but can you explain how you're using three pieces of tape to mark infinity? Seems like it would be just two. One on the focusing ring and one on the barrell that need to line up. What am I missing?
Ha, you're right. No I'm anal. I cut a little triangle to place on the barrel lined up on the body's focus mark, then another two at 90 degrees off that in each direction, so I can easily see it no matter what orientation I have the camera even up high above me on a tall tripod using the LCD to frame. It also provides redundancy if one of the pieces were to come off.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Ok, thanks! I like the idea, and for testing for infinity in bright light are we just eyeballing it or something more systematic?
Zoom in to 100% on a distant subject and focus it as sharp as you possibly can. Tape the barrel with a big peice of gaffe tape so it can't move, recheck and put your little pieces of tape on. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the reply.