I was looking at tankless for the shop floor radiant heating but after some research am leaning towards a propane tank type water heater. On a side note, I noticed at about 9:00 there is what appears to be mineral wool in the background. I am looking into Rockwool or some similar mineral wool batts for the attic insulation & fireproofing as well as sound proofing between rooms in the stud bays. What brand of mineral wool are you using and where are you using it? Thanks for posting. 👍👍
i used that in the garage attic with an R30 value from Menards called John Marsdon i believe. it wasnt enough so i used 3-4 more inches of blow in cellulose. in the house since they dont conform and get into all the nooks and crannies, i just used blown in cellulose instead. kind of easier too since the wool weigh a ton per bag and moving all that around in the attic would be a nightmare. with some left over, i used it in the walls of the master bedroom, bath and closet to keep sound out. i dont think it made a huge difference, so the other interior wall, i saved money and time just used fiberglass. anything is better than nothing.
Pump is on the wrong side of the water heater ? Better to pump into the water heater rather than trying to suck out. This will reduce pump cavitation ie less air generated.
No the cold side. Keeps the pumps lasting longer. They suck the water out of the floor and send it back into the tankless which fires it up like normal cold water coming in that turns it on. Zero air generated too. I introduced the air into that screwed this all up!
I know from building a water cooling system for a PC with radiators and pump you do use Distilled water but you have to add anti microbials and dissimilar metal additives to the loop. Even if all the metals in your system is the same (copper) the quality may be different just like the anti freeze in a car which has different metals in it also has additives added to stop corrosion. When doing a PC they tell you NOT to use food grade anything in the loop as it causes algae to grow and they say not to even color the water with food coloring but to use coloring made for a PC..
Interesting. Probably why the micro screen was covered in green. Was probably algae. I bought like 10 gallons of regular but didn’t use since radiant systems all use the cyrtec 100. Disposal was the reason but next time when the system needs flushed, I can use the real stuff. I know my metals are cast, copper, brass and stainless.
@@neckofthewoods24 I am not sure that using the car anti freeze would work as well as it may not give you enough heat to dissipate properly as water would do the best. To me the way you have it is what most use but watering it down may work better as long as you don't freeze at zero. There are a few companies that make the anti Microbial that you should add and glycol base products are used with water and help with dissimilar metals as even copper can corrode from different properties in each component you use.
omg !!,,, u use a primary & secondary loop..been using tankless for years,,,you are not getting any flow because of the restrictive piping thru boiler,,this is soooo easy to fix,,yes i,m a master plumber and licensed hvac contractor,,,
@@neckofthewoods24 If you want my opinion, I would remove it completely, there’s about zero chance of your system freezing as your water is moving all the time and your system is incased in concrete. Glycol should only be used in static systems to prevent freezing. We use glycol offshore all the time in some really harsh environments and find the tanks get green goo in them at the top after a while.
@@jamdmcc8832 the garage is connected to this system. The first tube runs right to the garage door. In winter the heat from that tube melts outside of the garage about 8”. However the in floor prob sensor is all the way at the back of the garage. So the first tube could freeze at the door till the floor sensor in the back calls for heat.
@@neckofthewoods24 I hear what you’re saying bro. How close to the garage door is the last loop of your system? How deep is the loop in the concrete? How often does the garage kick in and kick off? All I’m saying is the chances of your loop freezing close to the door are extremely slim due to concrete protection and the intervals of the moving water!
@@jamdmcc8832 all 3 hot runs run in front of the garage door. First right to the door then loop around the left side of the garage. Second run runs in front of the first in front of the garage door then heats the middle of the garage and the 3rd does the same in front of the doors but feeds the right side of the garage. Depth in front is about 6”. Not sure about how often it kicks on. It used to kick on all the time but when I put the in floor sensor, it definitely kicks on a lot less!
I was looking at tankless for the shop floor radiant heating but after some research am leaning towards a propane tank type water heater. On a side note, I noticed at about 9:00 there is what appears to be mineral wool in the background. I am looking into Rockwool or some similar mineral wool batts for the attic insulation & fireproofing as well as sound proofing between rooms in the stud bays. What brand of mineral wool are you using and where are you using it? Thanks for posting. 👍👍
i used that in the garage attic with an R30 value from Menards called John Marsdon i believe. it wasnt enough so i used 3-4 more inches of blow in cellulose. in the house since they dont conform and get into all the nooks and crannies, i just used blown in cellulose instead. kind of easier too since the wool weigh a ton per bag and moving all that around in the attic would be a nightmare. with some left over, i used it in the walls of the master bedroom, bath and closet to keep sound out. i dont think it made a huge difference, so the other interior wall, i saved money and time just used fiberglass. anything is better than nothing.
Pump is on the wrong side of the water heater ?
Better to pump into the water heater rather than trying to suck out. This will reduce pump cavitation ie less air generated.
No the cold side. Keeps the pumps lasting longer. They suck the water out of the floor and send it back into the tankless which fires it up like normal cold water coming in that turns it on. Zero air generated too. I introduced the air into that screwed this all up!
I know from building a water cooling system for a PC with radiators and pump you do use Distilled water but you have to add anti microbials and dissimilar metal additives to the loop. Even if all the metals in your system is the same (copper) the quality may be different just like the anti freeze in a car which has different metals in it also has additives added to stop corrosion. When doing a PC they tell you NOT to use food grade anything in the loop as it causes algae to grow and they say not to even color the water with food coloring but to use coloring made for a PC..
Interesting. Probably why the micro screen was covered in green. Was probably algae. I bought like 10 gallons of regular but didn’t use since radiant systems all use the cyrtec 100. Disposal was the reason but next time when the system needs flushed, I can use the real stuff. I know my metals are cast, copper, brass and stainless.
@@neckofthewoods24 I am not sure that using the car anti freeze would work as well as it may not give you enough heat to dissipate properly as water would do the best. To me the way you have it is what most use but watering it down may work better as long as you don't freeze at zero. There are a few companies that make the anti Microbial that you should add and glycol base products are used with water and help with dissimilar metals as even copper can corrode from different properties in each component you use.
omg !!,,, u use a primary & secondary loop..been using tankless for years,,,you are not getting any flow because of the restrictive piping thru boiler,,this is soooo easy to fix,,yes i,m a master plumber and licensed hvac contractor,,,
I have no clue what you’re trying to say.
That’s the same as you’re look on finances. Pay your debts crybaby blocker!
@@neckofthewoods24 look at the manual for "closely spaced tees" ou "loss loss headers". you must decouple the boiler flow from the pumps flow.
3:14. Hank Hill likes that you're using too too much propane. also, maybe, to much propane accessories too.
only 1 so far. when done there will be 4.
The Glycol will be causing the green slime bro!
really? how often does it get changed out? still very red/pink in there.
@@neckofthewoods24
If you want my opinion, I would remove it completely, there’s about zero chance of your system freezing as your water is moving all the time and your system is incased in concrete.
Glycol should only be used in static systems to prevent freezing.
We use glycol offshore all the time in some really harsh environments and find the tanks get green goo in them at the top after a while.
@@jamdmcc8832 the garage is connected to this system. The first tube runs right to the garage door. In winter the heat from that tube melts outside of the garage about 8”. However the in floor prob sensor is all the way at the back of the garage. So the first tube could freeze at the door till the floor sensor in the back calls for heat.
@@neckofthewoods24 I hear what you’re saying bro.
How close to the garage door is the last loop of your system?
How deep is the loop in the concrete?
How often does the garage kick in and kick off?
All I’m saying is the chances of your loop freezing close to the door are extremely slim due to concrete protection and the intervals of the moving water!
@@jamdmcc8832 all 3 hot runs run in front of the garage door. First right to the door then loop around the left side of the garage. Second run runs in front of the first in front of the garage door then heats the middle of the garage and the 3rd does the same in front of the doors but feeds the right side of the garage. Depth in front is about 6”. Not sure about how often it kicks on. It used to kick on all the time but when I put the in floor sensor, it definitely kicks on a lot less!
One way to survive off only one tankless could've been be to use a plate heat exchanger for the glycol to potable.
Not sure I follow.
Yeah that's a 20k job easily
That’s insane for $2-3k in parts