I came here for the BB install since im researching for my sons Madone, but I did notice you had your masterlink on in the wrong direction at 0:38. The slotted plate should be at the back on the outside.
Hi Ian. I had an issue with the installation of the BB3724. When I started tightening the bb in the shell, after a certain torque the other side of the bb would rotate along with the side I was tightening. This essentially meant that I was unable to tighten the bb in the shell. How did you overcome this problem. It seems you did not experience it all.
@@bobmuskus4242 don't know how to solve this. What I did was I contacted the company that makes the bb and told them the tool doesn't work by itself as you need 2 of them. They said they would send me a second free of charge. You need 2 tools to hold one side of the bb in place while you tighten the opposite side. Simple newton's third law. But then again I wasn't able to tighten to the specified torque of 25Nm, only reached 19Nm. This was because of the instability when trying to hold one side tight while trying to tighten the other. basically one side presses down with 25Nm while the other tries to remain stationary. Very hard to accomplish this as a human.
@@eragon6946Thx. It was the non-drive side that slipped. I guess I was lucky cause I was able to get both to 27.5Nm. I torqued the non-drive side first then torqued the drive side which was already at spec. Only put 16mi on it since the install but no creeking yet. Felt pretty good. It's a 2019 Trek Checkpoint SL 6. Was on my 2nd BB90 and it was already creaking on the hills. If I can get at least 2 seasons out of it I'll consider it a success.
@@bobmuskus4242 hi Bob, just wanted to come back to this as I’ve taken apart my bb for its yearly clean. Going to try and torque it up to recommended 25Nm. Just wanted to ask you, if you remember despite it being a long time, did you grease both sides of the bb? And to confirm you were successful in tightening the system from the non-drive side right? I guess I’ll try both, maybe this year it’ll work. I’ve been recommended to use loctite instead of grease for the bb so I’ll Resort to that to see if it helps if the initial tightening doesn’t go to plan.
isnt the most important thing to do is use retaining compound. youre bearings seemed to come out easy which is a sign of a worn bb which can cause further damage if its not addressed
2 года назад+1
Exactly. Next time use Loctite SF 7649 (activator) first & Loctite 641 (retaining compound) afterwards. I´ve just replaced my bearings with a quality - SKF 61805 2RS.
@John Brown that wont happen for a few reasons. mainly, galvanic corrosion, which is why the arms fail drastically due to corrosion, in all examples you will see the spindles corrosion free.
@John Brown we're talking about the shimano crank failure issue, who cares if i work for nasa, we steal tax payers' money, billions of dollars a year and say we went to the moon all we gave you was cell phones but yall morons keep funding us. the only reference that is relevant here is galvanic corrosion and the data that shows the corrosion is on the cranks that fail. zero corrosion on the axle- ZERO. all of it is inside the crank arms. look it up. the bike industry is an insect compared to race car, aquatic vessels, and aerospace so i wouldnt be so quick to brag about working on bicycles. this isnt a pissing contest lets stick to the facts. if you want to waste grease then have at it, just thought you may want to learn something instead of rejecting accurate science that is relevant to youre profound profession. im not god but i know how to speak and comprehend basic information, im gods' messenger, the information is out there take it or leave it. youre not disputing me youre disputing everything that is true and undeniable.
@John Brown to be more concise, no matter the years of experience in any field it does not change science. with or without grease on the steel doesnt save the aluminum from failing, it will fail everytime, thats the part that needs greasing, the steel axle will be fine everytime. the key to life is results, the knowledge that the past will repeat itself is the definition of science, which is why referencing all the failed cranks is all that matters. also the moisture is trapped inside the hollow crank arms it is not trapped in or around the axle since bb's on frames are not air tight which means the moisture can escape from inside a frame unlike inside the crank arms. its a forever cycle of expanding and contracting of the same moisture that was trapped inside from the day it was produced. so ur experience is better well spent by taking apart the shimano hollow tech cranks greasing the insides then rebonding them. that will be more useful than greasing the spindle tbh.
@John Brown when a race car or boat fails due to corrosion they dont put grease on it. only you in the bike industry does. nor do they add air turbulence and sell it as an upgrade.
This token product is crap. If you have this problem with your BB90 shell, and the bearings are lose, don’t go this route. The tool is single ended, meaning when you’re screwing in one side the other side slips, so you can’t torque it down. I sent to TOKEN and they went radio silent. The product sucks. They suck. Instead, I went to TREK and they rebuilt the BB90 shell for free. Like new
Was your frame under warranty? Or is the BB90 issue so common that Trek does not want to recall the frames, but quietly offers a temporary solution for free?
@@brif56 No, it was not. The frame is circa 2015, but otherwise in good shape. My local Trek shop here in Nashua, NH was very good about it. They said Trek recognizes this is a problem and will take care of it for BB90 customers. No charge for the kit or labor. They only charged for new the bearings. The Token thing is a good idea but is poorly executed. But in any case, I think first step is to fix the frame and get it to spec.
Hi Ian. I had an issue with the installation of the BB3724. When I started tightening the bb in the shell, after a certain torque the other side of the bb would rotate along with the side I was tightening. This essentially meant that I was unable to tighten the bb in the shell. How did you overcome this problem. It seems you did not experience it all.
Yep same , and coz of that my BB now creeks, thinking of buying another tool , cutting it down so I can use from both sides to tighten up , or remove when time comes
@@quvenju hi, before you do that I want to inform you that I did the exact same. I bought 2 tools, shortened them with a pipe cutter so that both fit through either side. I did manage to tighten it much more but still not to the specified torque. It is easy for me to tighten one side, but impossible to hold the other side still: the tool would always slip out as it was not going through either side of the bb (because it’s shortened). Despite this, there is no better way to get as close to the specified torque as possible. Also the way I got my second tool, was I contacted customer service at Token, explained to the the problem, told them how unhappy I was, and asked them to ship out another bb tool which they agreed to do free of charge. It arrived pretty quickly. Good luck! PS: I am thinking of actually asking them to reconsider the design for the installation process so that We can actually tighten it to the specified torque so do keep me up to date on their replies to you thanks.
@@quvenju it is very tempting to go back to ordering a bb90 kit and installing that but there are downsides to that too: the possibility of wearing the bb shell of the actual frame as that is the surface is contact with the bb. This may only be minuscule but enough to cause a bit of creaking.
The installation prob of one or the other side spinning while torquing is due to the shallow/thin machining of the cup flanges/tool perch. There is insufficient material for tool to engage. Also, ss the BB is tightened the tool has even less engagement.
Hi Ian, many thanks for sharing this. I'm getting ready to do this exact process on my Domane - This video and the comments are very helpful!!
I came here for the BB install since im researching for my sons Madone, but I did notice you had your masterlink on in the wrong direction at 0:38. The slotted plate should be at the back on the outside.
and why is that ?
Its directional and its the way its made... 🧐 What makes you ask? @@GollesFpv
@@krimoll haha sorry dont remember, and cant seem to understand what it was I wanted to know :)
I haven't seen a torque wrench... 🤔
Hi Ian. I had an issue with the installation of the BB3724. When I started tightening the bb in the shell, after a certain torque the other side of the bb would rotate along with the side I was tightening. This essentially meant that I was unable to tighten the bb in the shell. How did you overcome this problem. It seems you did not experience it all.
Hi Eragon, I didn't have any problems when tightening the BB up.
Just did mine and had the same problem.
@@bobmuskus4242 don't know how to solve this. What I did was I contacted the company that makes the bb and told them the tool doesn't work by itself as you need 2 of them. They said they would send me a second free of charge. You need 2 tools to hold one side of the bb in place while you tighten the opposite side. Simple newton's third law. But then again I wasn't able to tighten to the specified torque of 25Nm, only reached 19Nm. This was because of the instability when trying to hold one side tight while trying to tighten the other. basically one side presses down with 25Nm while the other tries to remain stationary. Very hard to accomplish this as a human.
@@eragon6946Thx. It was the non-drive side that slipped. I guess I was lucky cause I was able to get both to 27.5Nm. I torqued the non-drive side first then torqued the drive side which was already at spec. Only put 16mi on it since the install but no creeking yet. Felt pretty good. It's a 2019 Trek Checkpoint SL 6. Was on my 2nd BB90 and it was already creaking on the hills. If I can get at least 2 seasons out of it I'll consider it a success.
@@bobmuskus4242 hi Bob, just wanted to come back to this as I’ve taken apart my bb for its yearly clean. Going to try and torque it up to recommended 25Nm. Just wanted to ask you, if you remember despite it being a long time, did you grease both sides of the bb? And to confirm you were successful in tightening the system from the non-drive side right? I guess I’ll try both, maybe this year it’ll work. I’ve been recommended to use loctite instead of grease for the bb so I’ll Resort to that to see if it helps if the initial tightening doesn’t go to plan.
isnt the most important thing to do is use retaining compound. youre bearings seemed to come out easy which is a sign of a worn bb which can cause further damage if its not addressed
Exactly. Next time use Loctite SF 7649 (activator) first & Loctite 641 (retaining compound) afterwards. I´ve just replaced my bearings with a quality - SKF 61805 2RS.
@ hambini knows whats up
Варварская схема демонтажа. Лучше использовать пресс.
Менее травматично для рамы.
Hi Ian is that an Emonda sl6 frame? I’m due a bb change and mechanics suggested using a token ninja. How has it fared?
Hi Colin, yes its an SL6 frame I have done well over 1000 miles with this BB and had no issues at all, so far so good.
Are you really just holding against with your bare hand when tightening (5:20++)? How??
This is as poorly filmed as the Loch Ness Monster and Bigfoot.
why would u grease the entire spindle it only contacts on the bearings' inner race
@John Brown that wont happen for a few reasons. mainly, galvanic corrosion, which is why the arms fail drastically due to corrosion, in all examples you will see the spindles corrosion free.
@John Brown we're talking about the shimano crank failure issue, who cares if i work for nasa, we steal tax payers' money, billions of dollars a year and say we went to the moon all we gave you was cell phones but yall morons keep funding us. the only reference that is relevant here is galvanic corrosion and the data that shows the corrosion is on the cranks that fail. zero corrosion on the axle- ZERO. all of it is inside the crank arms. look it up. the bike industry is an insect compared to race car, aquatic vessels, and aerospace so i wouldnt be so quick to brag about working on bicycles. this isnt a pissing contest lets stick to the facts. if you want to waste grease then have at it, just thought you may want to learn something instead of rejecting accurate science that is relevant to youre profound profession. im not god but i know how to speak and comprehend basic information, im gods' messenger, the information is out there take it or leave it. youre not disputing me youre disputing everything that is true and undeniable.
@John Brown to be more concise, no matter the years of experience in any field it does not change science. with or without grease on the steel doesnt save the aluminum from failing, it will fail everytime, thats the part that needs greasing, the steel axle will be fine everytime. the key to life is results, the knowledge that the past will repeat itself is the definition of science, which is why referencing all the failed cranks is all that matters. also the moisture is trapped inside the hollow crank arms it is not trapped in or around the axle since bb's on frames are not air tight which means the moisture can escape from inside a frame unlike inside the crank arms. its a forever cycle of expanding and contracting of the same moisture that was trapped inside from the day it was produced. so ur experience is better well spent by taking apart the shimano hollow tech cranks greasing the insides then rebonding them. that will be more useful than greasing the spindle tbh.
@John Brown ignore the truth all you want, you prolly still oil chains and recommend disc rotors on aero bikes. times are a changing ol man.
@John Brown when a race car or boat fails due to corrosion they dont put grease on it. only you in the bike industry does. nor do they add air turbulence and sell it as an upgrade.
Garbage. Did not last for 2 weeks.
This token product is crap. If you have this problem with your BB90 shell, and the bearings are lose, don’t go this route. The tool is single ended, meaning when you’re screwing in one side the other side slips, so you can’t torque it down. I sent to TOKEN and they went radio silent. The product sucks. They suck.
Instead, I went to TREK and they rebuilt the BB90 shell for free. Like new
Was your frame under warranty? Or is the BB90 issue so common that Trek does not want to recall the frames, but quietly offers a temporary solution for free?
@@brif56 No, it was not. The frame is circa 2015, but otherwise in good shape. My local Trek shop here in Nashua, NH was very good about it. They said Trek recognizes this is a problem and will take care of it for BB90 customers. No charge for the kit or labor. They only charged for new the bearings. The Token thing is a good idea but is poorly executed. But in any case, I think first step is to fix the frame and get it to spec.
Hi Ian. I had an issue with the installation of the BB3724. When I started tightening the bb in the shell, after a certain torque the other side of the bb would rotate along with the side I was tightening. This essentially meant that I was unable to tighten the bb in the shell. How did you overcome this problem. It seems you did not experience it all.
Yep same , and coz of that my BB now creeks, thinking of buying another tool , cutting it down so I can use from both sides to tighten up , or remove when time comes
@@quvenju hi, before you do that I want to inform you that I did the exact same. I bought 2 tools, shortened them with a pipe cutter so that both fit through either side. I did manage to tighten it much more but still not to the specified torque. It is easy for me to tighten one side, but impossible to hold the other side still: the tool would always slip out as it was not going through either side of the bb (because it’s shortened). Despite this, there is no better way to get as close to the specified torque as possible.
Also the way I got my second tool, was I contacted customer service at Token, explained to the the problem, told them how unhappy I was, and asked them to ship out another bb tool which they agreed to do free of charge. It arrived pretty quickly. Good luck! PS: I am thinking of actually asking them to reconsider the design for the installation process so that We can actually tighten it to the specified torque so do keep me up to date on their replies to you thanks.
@@quvenju it is very tempting to go back to ordering a bb90 kit and installing that but there are downsides to that too: the possibility of wearing the bb shell of the actual frame as that is the surface is contact with the bb. This may only be minuscule but enough to cause a bit of creaking.
@@quvenju what bike do you have?
The installation prob of one or the other side spinning while torquing is due to the shallow/thin machining of the cup flanges/tool perch. There is insufficient material for tool to engage. Also, ss the BB is tightened the tool has even less engagement.