Thanks Erik! I really enjoy and appreciate your videos! one question, does the H-probe have any particular/recommended sizes or diemensions, I mean length, loop radius, etc? Tnx very much!
The larger the size, the more sensitive, the smaller the size the better you are able to locate a source on a PCB. So it is always a compromise. Why not make a small AND a large one? Google can find a lot of material on building your own magnetic probes. In general, size is not critical
Great video! Question, I noticed that you didn't split the shield on your H Field probe, all the ones that I've seen have the have the shield split, what am I missing? TNX 4 the upload! 73 N8AUM
As long as the shield is not connected all around it will work. The simplest way to do so is not connecting the shield at the end. A better way (more balanced to eliminate picking up E field) is to connect the shield at the end and make a shield split in the middle of the loop so each shield seeing from the outgoing coax is equally long. The simple way is a bit worse at shielding E field but will equally work for probing H-field.
Hi Erik. I downloaded the TinySA software but my computer tried to prevent me from opening the executable. I ran it anyway, but some people may be hesitant to download and use it for fear of viruses.
Microsoft decided that anything you download from the internet without a security certificate can not be trusted. For now I don't know how to create an installer with the right certificates without having to pay
can i see rds and stereo level in the tinysa ,if yes let me have a video of it i want to buye one,to my hobbie ,when i play with fm tx ,but useless if it not show bandwith less than 100 khz or even the fm deviation of the 75 khz or the 57 and 19 thanks
Excellent Erik. Been enjoying all your videos.
Thanks for your video, this is exactly why I bought a tinysa.
Thanks Erik! I really enjoy and appreciate your videos! one question, does the H-probe have any particular/recommended sizes or diemensions, I mean length, loop radius, etc? Tnx very much!
The larger the size, the more sensitive, the smaller the size the better you are able to locate a source on a PCB. So it is always a compromise. Why not make a small AND a large one? Google can find a lot of material on building your own magnetic probes. In general, size is not critical
Great video! Question, I noticed that you didn't split the shield on your H Field probe, all the ones that I've seen have the have the shield split, what am I missing? TNX 4 the upload! 73 N8AUM
As long as the shield is not connected all around it will work. The simplest way to do so is not connecting the shield at the end. A better way (more balanced to eliminate picking up E field) is to connect the shield at the end and make a shield split in the middle of the loop so each shield seeing from the outgoing coax is equally long.
The simple way is a bit worse at shielding E field but will equally work for probing H-field.
Hi Erik. I downloaded the TinySA software but my computer tried to prevent me from opening the executable. I ran it anyway, but some people may be hesitant to download and use it for fear of viruses.
Microsoft decided that anything you download from the internet without a security certificate can not be trusted. For now I don't know how to create an installer with the right certificates without having to pay
great job great video thanks
That’s a great idea
can i see rds and stereo level in the tinysa ,if yes let me have a video of it i want to buye one,to my hobbie ,when i play with fm tx ,but useless if it not show bandwith less than 100 khz or even the fm deviation of the 75 khz or the 57 and 19
thanks
Feel free to read the specification at tinysa.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.Specification and decide if the tinySA is useful.
@@ErikKaashoek i am from the first video .but it does not .
Thanks
Are you using a clone?
No
@@ErikKaashoek I saw your other video where the genuine had a laser etch logo and the fake had the bright painted look. Thanks for your great videos.
@@rdsandy11 I have some older models without laser print