I’m a rank amateur who's a danger to society with a hot air gun. I managed to move 4 SMDs from an Arduino Nano the first time I used one. Low melt solder has been a life saver for me, I can work confidently at lower temperatures when trying to fix my mista… I mean things the manufacturer got wrong.
Interesting, as a home hobbyist I always assumed that low temp solder was lower temp than lead free solder but still higher than leaded solder. I'm glad to know better now.
Bismuth when mixed with Lead drastically reduces the melting point. I do not remember the eutectic mix of Bismuth and Lead but in some cases the melting temperature can be as low as 90C ! Actually those solder removing pastes used to help on component removal are exactly that, a mix between Tin Lead and Bismuth. So one needs to be very very careful when using Bismuth bases solder since the solder iron for example an contain leftover Lead solder ... the mix would substantially reduce the melting point on the solder components.
Awesome video! I like using bismuth-based, low-temp solder to remove components from boards. This reduces the chances of destroying pads by overheating.
Wow, that's the first time i heard of bismuth based solder paste. I'm a professional, and at work I only use leaded solder wire, even for small smd components. I prefer it over solder paste, as it doens't really have a shelf life. This definitely changes my opinion concerning lead free alloys, I simply prefer lead.
I do motherboard repair on mainly iPhones. All of this is super important for reballing ic's and running jumpers on torn flexes. Need to master your temp control to do stuff that small! Nice video!!
I've not tried it yet, but the reflow temperature of bismuth-based paste being only slightly higher than my 3D printer's heated bed during ABS prints gives me ideas 🤔 I'm not suggesting the heat bed would do all the work, but it could maybe act like the initial stages of a proper reflow profile, and then a hot air gun could push it over the edge... (I mean a temperature-controlled soldering station hot air tool, not one of the 2kW paint-stripping things, to be clear.) That seems like it'd give more consistent results than the hot air tool alone, especially for things like exposed pads on QFNs or ESP32 modules, and might cause fewer melted connectors and switches 👀 (Obviously something like a hacked toaster oven will give better results than what I describe here, but I'm not at that stage yet! This is an experiment in whether I can get improved results _with equipment I already have_ :))
I’m late but I wouldn’t never solder to any battery. You will do some sort of damage to the cell no matter what anyone tries to tell you. Also solder joints arnt as good for vibrations which most battery powered applications will experience some as they are intended to be mobile. The answer is don’t try to repair a battery. Recycle it and buy a new one, typically they are spot welded, laser welded, or ultrasonically welded. You’ll never see a manufacturer soldering to a cell terminal and there’s a reason for that as the cost of the equipment for all but the spot welders is very high. Invest in a good spot welder like a Kweld or similar, not a cheap Amazon one, they won’t hold up or do the job well.
This question may be out of your wheel house, but I am going to ask anyway. I have a Jeep vehicle that has the rear window glass defroster grid. Jeep has a common problem with the electrical connector breaking free of the copper mounting location on either side of the grid. The recommended fix is sort of epoxy that conducts electricity (which doesn't work, mine fell off within an hour after the dealer repaired it), or just replace the glass. You can bet the the connector will come loose on the new window sooner than later. Do you think this low temp solder could be used to make a permanent repair to these defrosters?
the brittle thing is a huge minus for me, but hmm i'm very much tempted to cancel my order and switch it to the half price bismuth stuff :P i'm building a hot plate soldering plate and it can do 260c.
I need to solder the "wire" (small tab like thing) back onto my rear window defroster. Would I just put a blob on the defroster, push the tab onto it and then use my heat gun to reflow it?
I would apply flux to your window, reflow the joint and clean off with solder wick. Then apply new leaded solder, tin your replacement tab (Should be a spade connector) and hold in place with tweezers while heating with the soldering iron.
@@ivanhoe6366 For such purposes there's something called a silver based elecro-conductive glue or lacquer (dont reply to me - I'm electronics technician but I'm using someone else's account rn haha)
I have an old timy container, jarlike but tiny. Of dolder paste from china yhe entire things in Chinese, can i mix it up with a toothpick to redistribute the flux? Then use it to solder a wire onto a 12v chord
You have a kitchen stove, don't you? Use that. Mine is natural gas, and I put the circuit board on a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum to buffer the heat. I expect that would work for electric too. Wait until the solder turns shiny, give it a few more seconds to be sure it's all melted, and turn the heat off. Not the perfect temperature profile, but it works.
@@lmantuano6986 You mean... let me understand this cause, you know, maybe it's me, but I'm funny how ? I mean funny like I'm a clown, I amuse you ? What do you mean funny, funny how ? How am I funny ?
I’m a rank amateur who's a danger to society with a hot air gun. I managed to move 4 SMDs from an Arduino Nano the first time I used one. Low melt solder has been a life saver for me, I can work confidently at lower temperatures when trying to fix my mista… I mean things the manufacturer got wrong.
Interesting, as a home hobbyist I always assumed that low temp solder was lower temp than lead free solder but still higher than leaded solder. I'm glad to know better now.
Bismuth when mixed with Lead drastically reduces the melting point. I do not remember the eutectic mix of Bismuth and Lead but in some cases the melting temperature can be as low as 90C ! Actually those solder removing pastes used to help on component removal are exactly that, a mix between Tin Lead and Bismuth.
So one needs to be very very careful when using Bismuth bases solder since the solder iron for example an contain leftover Lead solder ... the mix would substantially reduce the melting point on the solder components.
Awesome video! I like using bismuth-based, low-temp solder to remove components from boards. This reduces the chances of destroying pads by overheating.
Wow, that's the first time i heard of bismuth based solder paste. I'm a professional, and at work I only use leaded solder wire, even for small smd components. I prefer it over solder paste, as it doens't really have a shelf life. This definitely changes my opinion concerning lead free alloys, I simply prefer lead.
I’m sure your body doesn’t
I do motherboard repair on mainly iPhones. All of this is super important for reballing ic's and running jumpers on torn flexes. Need to master your temp control to do stuff that small! Nice video!!
Very interesting. I have only tried wire solder before.
I've not tried it yet, but the reflow temperature of bismuth-based paste being only slightly higher than my 3D printer's heated bed during ABS prints gives me ideas 🤔
I'm not suggesting the heat bed would do all the work, but it could maybe act like the initial stages of a proper reflow profile, and then a hot air gun could push it over the edge... (I mean a temperature-controlled soldering station hot air tool, not one of the 2kW paint-stripping things, to be clear.)
That seems like it'd give more consistent results than the hot air tool alone, especially for things like exposed pads on QFNs or ESP32 modules, and might cause fewer melted connectors and switches 👀
(Obviously something like a hacked toaster oven will give better results than what I describe here, but I'm not at that stage yet! This is an experiment in whether I can get improved results _with equipment I already have_ :))
I have seen Tech's in work solder entire projects with hot air tool, if you get the technique right, there's never a prolem.
You are an excellent instructor. Will b buying this from MG.
Thank you.
Very straight forward explanation
Thanks for the video!
Low temp solder is great for sensitive chips. Reflow first with SAC and then finish sensitive stuff with the low temp.
Is there a build video on your reflow oven?
you do realise now you have to made a LED chip cookie PCB to have as a prop :D
Very timely video. Great explanation.
Could the low temp solder paste work to reattach aluminum terminal studs to the aluminum base on a 3.2v 280ah lifepo4 cell?
I’m late but I wouldn’t never solder to any battery. You will do some sort of damage to the cell no matter what anyone tries to tell you. Also solder joints arnt as good for vibrations which most battery powered applications will experience some as they are intended to be mobile. The answer is don’t try to repair a battery. Recycle it and buy a new one, typically they are spot welded, laser welded, or ultrasonically welded. You’ll never see a manufacturer soldering to a cell terminal and there’s a reason for that as the cost of the equipment for all but the spot welders is very high. Invest in a good spot welder like a Kweld or similar, not a cheap Amazon one, they won’t hold up or do the job well.
This question may be out of your wheel house, but I am going to ask anyway. I have a Jeep vehicle that has the rear window glass defroster grid. Jeep has a common problem with the electrical connector breaking free of the copper mounting location on either side of the grid. The recommended fix is sort of epoxy that conducts electricity (which doesn't work, mine fell off within an hour after the dealer repaired it), or just replace the glass. You can bet the the connector will come loose on the new window sooner than later.
Do you think this low temp solder could be used to make a permanent repair to these defrosters?
My pajero just did same. Tried normal solder with no joy. Hence why I'm here. 😥
learned something, so thanks.
Hey... this actually is informative... 😳👍
Glad you think so!
I tried to solder ic with bout 1/8 gap and got bridges the solder didnt melt and it was boiling i used soldering iron and it bridged
what solder station did you used?
the brittle thing is a huge minus for me, but hmm i'm very much tempted to cancel my order and switch it to the half price bismuth stuff :P
i'm building a hot plate soldering plate and it can do 260c.
I need to solder the "wire" (small tab like thing) back onto my rear window defroster. Would I just put a blob on the defroster, push the tab onto it and then use my heat gun to reflow it?
Why not just use a soldering iron? I recommend a bit of no-clean flux if you have some ...
I would apply flux to your window, reflow the joint and clean off with solder wick. Then apply new leaded solder, tin your replacement tab (Should be a spade connector) and hold in place with tweezers while heating with the soldering iron.
@@davidstech1445 just tried this........ No joy.
@@ivanhoe6366 For such purposes there's something called a silver based elecro-conductive glue or lacquer (dont reply to me - I'm electronics technician but I'm using someone else's account rn haha)
What paste do I use for Hi power LEDs
Probably not low-temp ...
Gold... the opposite... something with a high melting point...
I have an old timy container, jarlike but tiny. Of dolder paste from china yhe entire things in Chinese, can i mix it up with a toothpick to redistribute the flux? Then use it to solder a wire onto a 12v chord
Chur bro great video lots of useful tips
Why would you put it to 225f or 107c to fix your heat problem when you just stated that it was 280f or 138c melting point Little confused
He said 225c at 3.56
Hi very nice 👌👌🌹🌹❤️❤️❤️
Imagine if gold was common. Our electronics would be so much more reliable.
it's always disappointing to watch these videos. i can't afford one of those high tech black and decker reflow ovens! making the hobby inaccessible!
You have a kitchen stove, don't you? Use that. Mine is natural gas, and I put the circuit board on a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum to buffer the heat. I expect that would work for electric too. Wait until the solder turns shiny, give it a few more seconds to be sure it's all melted, and turn the heat off. Not the perfect temperature profile, but it works.
hi super video😍🙂🍻👍
How does one not move a board when using a soldering hotplate, since the hot plate stays hot for so long after turning the power off?
Change the profile so you can tolerate a longer cooldown.
@@bald_engineer I don't believe mine has that capability.
sodder/solder 🤣🤣🤣
He left aftomod tech and landed here
Some call it balls some call it granules... It's solder, solder... 😳
is Solder Paste = flux ???
Absolutely not
Solder paste does have flux in it - it's basically little balls of solder suspended in flux
..you are FUNNY!
What'd you say ? Funny how ? What the F. is so funny about me ? Tell me. Tell me what's funny.
@@bitsnbytes7514 ...I meant your presentation is FUNNY (as in HA-HA-FUNNY), example: 0:24 ..let's see how it tastes..
@@lmantuano6986 You mean... let me understand this cause, you know, maybe it's me, but I'm funny how ?
I mean funny like I'm a clown, I amuse you ? What do you mean funny, funny how ? How am I funny ?
@@lmantuano6986 FYI, you are not replying to me. The other person is trying to make a joke based on a movie.
@@bald_engineer Tried and failed, apparently. Sorry about the noise guys.
Lead was better. All the crap electronics from 2006 Era failed because of the switch from lead solder.
did you just threw that stuff in your mouth?! lol lol lol
0:48 Nope...
@@bald_engineer yeah, i saw it right after publishing hahaha
hello i like contact you about wire glue can give me your email /thank you