in fact , you're not saving 600g if you go tubeless you just save 200g and it doesn't matter if the bike if stationary or not. Inertia is calculated in kg/m² and it is not about weight but about how much a rotanional mass resists to a linear acceleration. so it may feel like you're having a much lighter bike but in fact it just because if your wheel is lighter you can accelerate easier and also brake easier because there is less inertia but the pay off is that your wheel will tend to not conserve its speed quit as much in bumpy terrain because it's lighter and has less inertia.
i do care about kg/m² XDscoty asked in the video if rotational mass made really you're bike like 3x lighter i answered... And maybe even though you doesn't care maybe other people will be interested
ahah of course i'm here to have fun on my bike that's the most important ... but my dream is to become a ingeneer in the bike industry to live my passion and just keep having fun on my bike so yeah i'm interested about the scientific stuff that goes around bike
Gauthier Vuitton you are right in sense the more mass at a distance of r or radius increases inertia so the more mass you have on the rim the higher the inertia is. Also rotational energy takes away from linear energy so the more mass on the rim the slower the bike will go.
I run tubeless without sealant. I carry a tube for puncture. Ive found that the sealant will seal the hole but only as a temporary measure. The hole WILL let a tiny amount of air out over time resulting in slow punctures. Its a nice idea as a get you home but, you will at some point have to drain all that sticky shit out clean all the sticky shit out in order to make a PROPER REPAIR WITH A PATCH!!
Well i hadnt any issues with punctures since i have tubeless even when parkriding. On the trailcasing tire i saw some white milk drops but they didnt leak even in the long run. I use stans sealant. Works great but dries up after 1 year
One day when I was out riding I had a flat 🚲.As I sat there wandering what to I decided to watch RUclips videos About tubeless Tires ,And I seen how you had pooped in a tire and it worked💩 !!!!So I decided to try it But after eating a bunch of spicy Mexican food At lunch🌮🌯 All that came out was diarrhea🙄 After feeling the tire up an airing it up 😷I took off? As I went down the road It kept making fart noises 😳People were very disgusted🤢 When I got back people kept asking who shit their pants🤮 All I could do was smile😬
I've been mountain biking since 1981, and riden over 200k miles. always on tube's, because you can put sealant in the tube and tape if you want. I haven't had a flat in years, riding all of the hardcore trail's here in Colorado. I have heard from everyone the benefits of tubeless and yes a little lighter. but if you cut the tire, or damage it. then it won't hold the bead and you have to install a tube to get back home, or walk. I just put a patch on the inside of the tire and fix the tube. all of the tubeless guys I Ride with carry tubes in their backpack. I just have to carry a patch kit, and that weighs about 2 oz. every ride, someone's fixing a tubeless setup. less drag and easier to get going from tubeless, true, but it's not that big a difference. I hardly know anyone who can keep up with me, especially on climbs. some guys will do anything to lose weight off of the bike, but I like a heavier bike, then when I Ride the light bike I'm even faster. I haven't had a flat in at least 9 years. I raced in norba at the semi pro level and am known all over Colorado. I don't understand tubeless. I like riding, not fixing
I have rubber strips to deal with bigger punctures, and the sealant takes care of tye small things. My XC has saw ghettod system and i think the only thing that would require me to run tubes is a tear in the sidewall of the tyre or a split. Even then i dont think tubes would fix that.
I know you. You're that guy in Pine Junction that never gets flats! Kidding, but seriously, I agree. Still using tubes on my steel frame hardtail and never have flats. Until the next ride of course. Damn Karma.
Hey could you guys help me my mtb tyres always keep losing air i just replaced the tubes so how do i stop the air from going all the time its fucking pissing me off
I imagine the rim strip you would use with a tube would be about the same weight, or heavier, than the rim tape used in tubeless applications, though it would have been nice for them to factor this in as well.
It was necessary to forget about it, so tubeless hype video can have 5 reasons. 5 is better than 4 ;-p Two layers of Tesa 4289 19mm tape weight is 10g, so tubeless is still lighter, but i'm not a fan of it after trying the only sealant that makes sense for me-Slimepro. Green one is utter garbage but advertised as lasting 2 years(which made it sensible option). Also according to one review article, new formula is white-ish like the rest, doesn't last 2years anymore(gues why) BUT I bought a bottle that had "New formula" on it and inside green slime. So buyer beware, something's fishy going on. After that pleasant "money down the drain" experience I went back to good old tubes. Thumbs up, so buyers "can" beware :-)
I rode tubes for decades with no punctures, except for staples and nails on city rides. My new bike came tubeless. They leak. Fast or slowly, they leak. Press people hard enough and you'll eventually get the truth - they go from saying, "It never leaks" to "well, I only have to pump it up every week or 2". Got tired of this crap, poured the sealant out and stuck tubes back in. Two years later, no flats, and I pump them up once at the beginning of the season. BTW, my beater bike has schrader valves and they hold air perfectly. Don't be pressured by trends. If you'd rather be riding than dealing with tubeless, then don't be afraid to make the switch.
I guess the majority of my bike riding was on the streets but as long as I had a high PSI tire the only chance I ever got snake bite or pinch the tubes if I really curb the tire bad. Which basically never happens if you're running a high pressure tire setup. I guess mountain bikers like a lower PSI so that they have more grip and more cushion but it seems like a double-edged sword especially when they have such nice suspension options... why not have high tire pressure and cushy suspension?
Bro that is totally me, but my giant stance 2 has a really crappy insertion length so I can’t with out it sticking up a bunch and only being good for climbing
As an old time mountain biker I was skeptical when I switched to tubeless in the spring. I LOVE it! Thanks to GMBN for the tips on how to do it as well.
I switched from tubeless on my 29er, increased the pressure and to my surprise the rear gription is much better, more control, and I realize exactly how I was getting snake bites (banging sideways into a roadside curb) - so I just don't do that and runs great. Also with tubeless the tires went flat now and again! With tubes all is great and I want added weight as I am not worried about even many pounds more. I ride for fun and snowboard training. Yes, if racing a gram savings may well save a second of time in a 10k race I suppose! :-)
Now I'm 6sec faster and 200gr lighter, i rule the world. Relax guys, bike industry always find new ways to take money. Buy a good bike and enjoy your rides.
The tires are for tubeless with extra side wall protection and weigh about 150g more than light weight tube versions. Also if you run latex tubes you could save another 80g per wheel. Tubeless is not lighter, but the ability to reduce pressure can definitely help.
@Hui Kai As other people mentioned, it is best to choose tubeless but with some tube, in case there will be no possibility to repair tubeless properly.
What "extra sidewall protection" are you talking about? I run Rene Herse with the extralight casing tubeless. Why do you think the sidewall thickness is relevant to tubeless?
Just the fact that the sealant blocks the holes was like waaaay to good to be true when i first heard about it, all the other imporovements are just a bonus.
1. You use a heavy tube(225gr) and forget about a rim tape. The tube rim tape is lighter than tubeless. You can get equal wheels. And sometimes some riders use additional tubeless racing systems like the HuckNorris and it adds weight. 2. Doesn't work for the 1st reason. 3,4,5 - Absolutely agree :)
"if you had a tube in side that wheel, if you went and stabbed that in, it would be game over." Not necessarily. Especially not if you had a tube filled with sealant much like you're tire. They still make that product for tube based setups as well. Not exactly the most unbiased example, which seems to be a frequent occurrence here.
Green slime in my tubes for years, yes I still get punctures occasionally but I just patch those in a few minutes. Tubeless comes off the rim 30 miles from home and you really are stuck if it won't reseat properly.
Just done it after 5y of xc mtb- best decision of my life after, getting a powermeter! Gained some time on all of the downhill strava segments. Dont even think about it. #gotubeless
It's also important that you're dealing with *unsprung* mass here (mass which is not isolated from the terrain by the suspension). The lighter unsprung assembly is easier for the suspension to control. For example, the spring can more rapidly accelerate the wheel toward the ground after a bump which increases the amount of time the tire is in contact with the ground.
I will never ever run tubeless again. It's useless if you don't refill every other month. Now I run tubes, trouble free. I don't even have to refill air in the tires every ride 🤗
@@stianjarnass You wont feel a difference if theyre at the same pressure. You can run lower pressure on tubeless but thats about it. Punctures are worst since you have to patch them everytime eitherways.
A mass in linear motion has the kinetic energy: E_lin = 1/2*m*v^2 (where v is the linear velocity) A wheel moves in what we call "general motion", IE combined linear and rotational motion. Therefore it has both the linear energy and the rotational energy: E_rot = 1/2*I_pol*omega^2. The polar moment of inertia is I_pol = m*r^2 (omega is the angular velocity, omega = v/r ) Put this into the formula for rotational energy: E_rot = 1/2*m*r^2*(v/r)^2=1/2*m*v^2 Adding the two, we see that we get double the kinetic energy. This means that we have to put in double the effort to accelerate a wheel comparing to something that only moves in a linear fashion, such as the frame. The wheel maintains the rotational energy, and it doesn't make a difference going at a constant speed or even uphill. However, a heavier wheel will also increase the gyroscopic effect making it less nimble. On the contrary, having glue slushing around in the tyres drains some energy aswell.
Well I guess you wrote it a lot nicer than me. :[ (btw. it is correct if someone needed a second opinion) **just an minor addition for anyone who might try to apply these equations on something different: 1.) I_pol = m*r^2 is the Inertia of a ideal ring, and no other shape 2.) These equations are to be perfomed as vector calculations, only in simple movements can they be writen as standart multiplications.
Moment of inertia affects only changes of speed - accelerating or braking. While rolling straight with constant speed ligher wheels do not make you faster (due to smaller moment of inertia). Did you mention?
Changes to velocity, rather. Mix in additional affects that a resistant to turning and require additional torque to change the angular momentum of each wheel.
The moment of inertia thing is important when accelerating, braking, and turning, (anything involving a change of velocity) but it's always worth adding the caveat that 100g mass in a climb is always 100g mass.
Some tapes are really heavy, like gorilla tape (read somewhere that it can add up to 90 or so grams). Others are a lot lighter. Overall, compared using large, thick tubes it will always be lighter but not as much of a difference if you use heavy-duty tape.
Thing is, some users tape rims twice. And then (independent from the former), the sealant doesn't vanish in 3-4 months (when it should be swapped for fresh one), some of it sticks to the rim, edge of tape, or tyre as solid residue. This adds to the weight of your wheelset in the long run.
Thanks for the replies--there sure is a lot of thought on either side of the debate on which is better, running tubes or going tubeless. I ride 200 miles a week, commuting and riding errands, and I ride through a lot of gravel and gunk on the shoulders of farm roads, and I am still riding with tubes and I am limiting flats pretty much through the use of stout road rubber and tire liners, with an extra layer or two of electrical tape around the rims. Still, the whole tubeless deal has me curious, so I'll likely give it a go, if only to see if it works for me.
You can use tire liners like Mr. Tuffy on tube tires. These work well at flat prevention. I have not had a flat on my mountain bike for years using these and they have been very effective on my road bike as well. Draw back : more rotational mass. Plus side : maintenance free, unlike tire sealant. I used Slime when it first came out and with about 3 weeks I had rocks rolling around inside my tire - dried slime. My feeling is for recreational mountain biking it might be worth it but for recreational road riding I will stick with tubes.
Because it’s the best thing since slice bread. It has its pros and cons but the amount of flats I have had in the last thirty years. I wish I could convert every bicycle I own. I am still not brave enough to try them on a road bike yet.
There are all sorts of reasons for going tubeless but most of the comments have been about the weight saving , ( and a fair bit about the weight of the rim tape) so I thought I would just add this to the pot for a stir . The 26 x 2.1 Kenda slant 6s I have come as tube only 120 dpi DTC and 120 dpi DTC + SCT. The SCT were slightly more than 100 gm heavier than the tube only tyre as the side walls were thicker and stiffer. The tube only tyres were not available in Aust and the SCT was what the bike shop ordered in for me. You can feel the 100 gm and the stiffer sidewalls for sure on the front. I was going to convert it to tubeless but found the tube only ones in the UK for half price and stuck with tubes. Only had 2 pinch flats in the last 6 years when I was too lazy to check the pressures before the ride. (we have pretty smooth tracks before I accused of not riding enough)
I just made the upgrade , I ripped of the tubeless liner and drilled the presta rim valve holes for shreader valves and added fuc**ing tubes!!!, no hassle , more accessible and ease of flat repair , cheaper and compatible with 99% of air pumps .
I recently converted my bike to tubeless and obviously it’s good I will get less flats, but the thing that’s blown my mind is the difference in the way the bike feels. It’s so much easier to ride uphill for whatever reason, I’m pissing up hills I that have always gassed me. Also, my bunny hops are better and it feels way smoother and more planted on downhill trails. I will never go back to tubes that is for sure!
I am new to this biking thing so watching these videos with keen interest. Personally from experience racing cars the less sprung weight in the wheel rim would not be noticeable when pedalling due to the speeds obtained. The real benefit would be in the suspension. Less sprung weight allows the wheel to react faster to the bumps without having too soft settings in the suspension. This will give a lot more grip over fast bumpy terrain. In this instance 100g is a monumental amount. Please let me know if this is different on a bike. Love your videos.
I have a number 6. I think the reason people are still riding on tubes is the fear of a massive failure. I.e - big hole, tyre coming off rim on big corner, gunk everywhere and no way to repair. It's worth remembering you can get repair kits, and even whip out the valves and chuck a tube in there to get home. Just go tubeless, it's better ; )
I use heavy duty slime (can fix punctures up to a quarter inch!!) in my tubes along with protective strips between the tube and tire. This setup is a lot stronger and way more puncture resistant than the expensive and annoying/hard to use tubeless setup....... Sorry but just because a idea is newer doesn't make it better.
Well if you can read I said "newer" idea. 1 The detachable tire was introduced in 1891 by Édouard Michelin. It was held on the rim with clamps, instead of glue, and could be removed to replace or patch the separate inner tube. 2 Many patents had been filed covering tubeless tires. Killen Tire applied for a patent in 1928 and was granted GB patent 329955 in the UK in 1930. The Wingfoot Corporation, a subsidiary of Goodyear Tire were granted a patent in South Africa in 1944. Due to technical problems, most of these designs only saw limited production or were abandoned. - Not that hard to find out lol.
Our neighbouring countryside has hawthorn and blackthorn hedges littered with wild roses and brambles. The farmers cut the hedges mechanically littering the neighbourhood tracks with thorns. The dog and I go on daily bike rides and I have mended scores of punctures over the years for myself and the family. This year I bought a new (to me) mountain bike with tubeless tyres. I have plucked several thorns from it's tyres with a resultant small puff of air for a fraction of a second followed by a small weep as it sealed. There are likely more unseen thorns lurking in the tyres. I do not miss mending punctures.
Tubes are just easier to me ive tried both and just hate the faf and mess of tubeless when it does let go out on a ride and I end up putting a tube in to get home. the weight thing I really did not notice either. my best bike was when I was a kid with solid tyres my dad put screws in them when it snowed lol. : p
Went tubeless and I'm going back to slime tubes. Tubeless is good but it's leak rate is much faster than a tube. I'm topping mine up with air every 2 weeks whereas, with slime tubes I can go months without having to add air. That was the kicker for me
I had Slime tubes in the past and it was unable to fix a puncture when happen. Only slime going out of the tube. So I get back to std tubes. Now, I think to try tubeless, but hearing people struggling with sealant, I am little afraid to switch. Also adding sealant regularly increase weight, so at the end, it is the same weight as a tube... A tube is so easy to change in the middle of nowhere as long as you have a spare patch/tube and a pump. I'm doing 2/3 road 1/3 trail everyday, so I'm bot sure rolling at 20 PSI will be a good thing on road.
I run sealant in my tubes and I carry a spare tube with me (two on long group rides) and a patch kit. I've had two flats, both instances that would've flattened a sealant filled tubeless (big holes). Once, large thorn, patched the tube, was on the road in less than 10 minutes. Other time a large nail left two big holes in the tread and sidewall. Tubeless would've left me stranded (tire is really too big to practically carry a spare, I think). I changed the tube, lining the holes with a piece cut off of the old innertube, limped home without incident. I'll keep my tubes, thank you.
I’ve been a tubeless sceptic for years. I then got a bike which was already set up with the tyres wheels and tape to convert to tubeless (it even came with valves) so I decided to give it a go. The rotational weight saving was noticeable and the suppleness over rocky ground was awesome. The ability to jam up a big hole with a plug in seconds was a bonus too. 3 years on however, I have a new bike - it has tubes but the tyres and rims are tubeless ready aaand… I’m sticking with tubes for now. Sure you spend less time repairing inner tubes when tubeless but you instead spend hours of your life picking off dry sealant from your tyre beads, cleaning out stanimals, replacing the sealant and wrestling your tyre back onto the rim, you have to pump your tyre up before each ride, and you hold all your friends back on rides pumping your slowly deflating tyre back up because your tyre bead has split slightly and won’t seal with the rim, until you give up and fit a slimy inner tube because your tubeless system has failed. I may go back to tubeless, but the differences I felt was on a hardtail - I’m now on a 160mm travel full sus… I can’t imagine those minor gains will be as noticeable as the huge reduction of faff I will encounter from riding tubes again.
Well, my buddy went tubeless 1year ago and ended up pushing his bike down the mountain 2x with flats on store installed tubeless.. I still ride the same tubes I had when he changed. Once that ratio changes I might give it a try..
I've been running tubeless for over 18 months now and personally would not go back to tubes. That said, tubeless can be trickier to set up correctly. Your riding style, weight, type of track, tyre/rim combination can all play their part, especially with tyre pressures. As for the expense, I've always used electrical insulation tape instead of proper rim tape and never had a leak, and replaced the fluid every 6 months, again, no issues or punctures.
u forgot rim tape, and you are using a tubless tire in place of a non tubeless tire which is much lighter an thinner.... so tubeless is not any lighter, folding non tubeless tires are much lighter than tubeless tires
Bought some tubeless sealant, put it in the tyre all going well. Couldn't get the tyre back on, broke a sweat doing it and poured the sealant out and stuck a tune back in to then take an extra half an hour getting the last 5 cm of tyre on
The reason I haven't tried tubeless is because of the ease to change tyres with tubes, depending on where your riding. But I have an idea about going tubeless is messy and needs alot of cleaning everytime you need a tyre change! Is this correct?
Changing a tyre isn't any harder or messier, however you will need to replace the sealant. So if you are changing tyres really often maybe tubes would better.
@not tryna argue but absolutely how is cleaning up sealant just as messy as not? sealant dries up and fixes to the tyre and rim to or just stays wet and more difficult to clean, what mess is there with tubes?
I just converted my bike tonight using Stan's sealant and Stan's valves. Using my Bontrager tubeless ready (no tape) wheels and one Maxxis DHR II, one Specialized Slaughter. ~20 minutes each for first time.
So when I get a snake bite/pinch puncture with my tubes, I would get a dent in my rim with no tubes? Because I don’t wanna dent my rim but also want to go tubeless and lower tire pressure and less wight
My new bike will be tubeless but I’m going to put tubes in along with Kevlar Strips inside the tyres, I’ve been riding 2 years on them and never had a puncture. These and the seat dropped and the two best innovations in my opinion lol
I went tubless because the other day I was in the middle of a race run and hit a rock and put a small hole in my tyre, since I was tubless It filled the hole and ended up getting 3rd in the stage 😍
Hi Mister, didn't read all 563 comments so far, so maybe its already said... When it comes to acceleration, you need twice as much muscle grease for a certain weight added at the outer radius of your wheel, compared to the same weight added to the frame. That is, because you have to accelerate it in the direction of the trail plus in the direction of the rotation. When using tubes, you should/can use lighter tires to get the right amount of damping and not an overly hard wheel. That can easily save you more than 100g. When you want a softer tire, running lower tire preasure, to get an enlarged contact patch to your dirt, you have to take a wider tire to not pinch flat it. I think, running tubeless to be able to ride on your rims is no option. The next step is to get some carbon rims and foam inlays to ding the rims with no consequences... but don't ask for weight savings anymore. My decision is to run tubes and appropriate tires, cause I don't like the hassle with the juice, when changing treads. I am not racing, so, when sharp rocks are in sight, I don´t have to go full throttle anyway... If you like the extra puncture protection, shredding raspberry bushes, go tubeless.
8 days ago a friend of mine (in tubeless wheels) had an incident and we can "repair" the tire, I was unable to help, I use tube but all my equipment and tools was usseless against the emergency. so my questions for your next tubeless video are. 1. how to, and what to carry to fix a mayor cut (say like a 1/4") cut in a tubeless tire? 2. can a tubeless tire support a tube after a mayor cut or several punctures? 3. how long is the usefull life of a tubeless wheel vs a tube wheel? nice video by the way see you the next one. and greetings from Colombia.
you should carry two things: an emergency repair kit and a standard tube. if the hole is too big just line it with strong paper (money) or a piece of plastic before inserting the tube. there is also an (special) patch you can glue on the inside, but once you removed the tire from the rim it is hard to but it back on with just a small hand pump. The emergancy repair kit is a rubberized string and a insertion tool.
I am a scientist. It takes F = m * a to accelerate the mass of the wheel. It takes M = I * w_dot to make the wheel rotate. As you showed I = m * r^2, also M = F * r and w_dot = a / r. This gives F * r = m * r^2 * a / r which can be simplified to F = m * a, showing that at worst there is another force of equal size, i.e., at worst the mass of the wheel feels as twice the mass of the non rotational mass. This is only during acceleration though, it has no effect on climbing or rolling resistance.
Climbing can be treated as a constant acceleration, can't it? You're constantly working against gravity resp. the downhill slope force, which accelerates your bike in the opposite direction and wants to pull you back to the foot of the mountain. The last calculation I've seen regarding wheel weight has put it at around 1.8 compared to non rotational mass though. No idea where the 3x in this video comes from.
You normally climb at a constant speed. Constant speed means zero acceleration by definition. Gravity causes acceleration when you ride downhill. :) This number depends on where you save weight along the radius of the wheel. As shown in the video, I = m * r^2, where r is maximum at the circumference of the wheel and r = 0 on the axle. (And m is a point mass at distance r from the axle, not the weight of the whole wheel, actually.) So, even hub rotates, lighter hub will not decrease rotational mass a lot. But lighter tires and rims will.
But you aren't really travelling at a constant speed while climbing, are you? Unless you have perfect pedalling efficiency with machine-like precision, you're constantly decelerating due to the downhill slope force, and accelerating again because of your pedal strokes. However it just occurred to me, the deceleration process would probably be at a slower rate for heavier wheels due to inertia, so this might cancel at least some of it out. Would be interesting to see some actual calculation for this.
So it's official I've been riding pantsless for the past year, and I've got two summons and I'm now registered as a sex offender. Can't recommend enough.
Just getting into mountain biking (and currently running tubeless) … Assume and all of these videos I watch where people are bringing an “extra tube“ is for those times when the tire pops a bead or the tubeless system fails? Assume then that the process would be to put a tube in the tire and finish out the trail?
Tubeless absolute waste of time, effort and money in my experience. I’ve had rocks put holes in tyre side walls that it obviously can’t seal, then you have a right mess on your hands putting a tube in. Also the amount of times I come back to bike in garage and the tyres have gone flat after a week of being stood, valves that won’t seal into rims, valves that the inner comes out with the cap because the sealant has glued them together is always a good one on a ride when you want to let a bit of air out not the whole lot. If someone offered you two options a messy option with a tyre and bead that’s hard to break and make and impossible to fix out and about without a tube and you have to keep replacing the sealant (bloody joke)or a tyre with a tube that you fix with a glue less patch or replace tube for a few quid and no mess, I know which option I’ve gone back too and others I ride with have as well, just companies trying to make more dosh. Rant over haha.
I use tubes with sealent inside so I don't get flats and I can swap tyres whenever I want. I put slicks on to ride to the nearest mountain and then my friends bring me my dh tyres to have some fun...
At 2:10 says that we “upgraded” by saving rotation “mass” and also says rotational “weight”. So by upgrade is he considering less rotational inertia is an advantage in starting, stopping, however also less roll inertia which I would think is beneficial. However I mainly disagree with his word use of weight.
TL;DR: you need 2x the energie to speed up a rotational mass (in form of a ring, and constant non slipping contact) Inertia is dependent on the shape of the object. For an ideal ring it is I = m*r^2. However what you are interestet is the kinetik energie (T) which is composed of translation and rotation. therefor: T = 1/2*m*v^2 + 1/2*w*L (w = v*r :rotational speed, L= I*w :moment of Inertia) .--> T=m*v^2
technically these calculations are performed as vector and matrix magic. but the youtube comment section is not the best place too get your science degree anyways...
Ole Gross and they don't seal that well, are heavy, and still are prone to snake bites. They also have an uneven rotational mass and slow rolling resistance.
I have run slime tubes for years and have had one puncture with them, you can see that they work just by taking the tube out and looking at all the holes it has sealed.
The answer to the question at 2:51 - yes you are correct, although it’s a bit more accurate to account for the thickness of the rim using the following equation: I = (1/2)*M*(r_outer^2 - r_inner^2) Where M is the mass, r_outer and r_inner are the inner and outer radii of the rim from the center of the hub, and I is the inertia. That said, I = MR^2 is going to give you a very close answer to the exact version.
I've been mountain biking for 26 years, and after owning my first tubeless ready bike for 7 months, I finally set up my tubeless wheels. I like the ride, but what a pain in the ass setting them up. Also, being a motorcyclist as well, I look at the tubeless wheels on the BMW adventure bikes and predict that bike wheels will soon go through a massive design change. Beemer wheels have a separate inboard flange where the spokes attach, leaving a rim cavity with no spoke holes and no need for sealant! The present method of sealing tubeless wheels is truly "reinventing the wheel"!
#5 after first time trying tubles i was surprised that its software and small bumps or rocks roots a lot more forgiven i didn't think that it was tubless thing but now i know
slime tubes work very well, I've use them in some very rough and thorny terrain and had like 3 wet spots (where the slime was released after tire being punctured). my tires are still holding the psi, this was last week.
I use milkit to add pressure and sealant. On one occasion, I forgot to release the pressure in the tyre. When I opened the valve on the milkit syringe I got a face full of sealant as did the cat who was watching me.
Tubeless is just one of many in along list of trends that people want to get on board with. I bought a used GIANT MTB that had a tubeless setup. They went to the scrap heat before the bike hit the pavement.
I never quite understood that alleged advantage of tubeless either. If I was getting pinch flats using inner tubes, I wouldn't want to be running that low of pressure on a tubeless setup either.
So maybe you get less punctures but there is another alternative to either of these set ups. If you use 26" tubes inside of your 27.5 or 29 tires you actually end up being slightly lighter than all of the tubeless stuff. And yes they do over inflate to fill the tire just fine. I have been running 26x2.1 tubes in my 29x2.4 tires for 3 months and haven's had any issues.
Does every tyre change require new sealant? For example after 2 weeks of riding I need to change the tyres to aggressive threaded ones - for muddy weekend, and then I'm comming back to standard tyres. Do I need to use 400 ml of new sealant or can I "recycle" any?
It can be a pain to swap tires. You can reuse the sealant but you will end up spilling and needing to add more each time. As someone that gets a lot of thorns, I still think it's worth it.
Marcin Jończyk Might as well just put new sealant in when you change tires. Can try to pour out some of the old stuff into the new tire but probably best to add new stuff. I got a 32oz bottle of sealant and it should last a long long time.
If you swap tires regurarly you can reuse the sealant. I have big syringe just for this and I always try to salvage as much sealant as possible. When changing tires around once a month the sealant is still in good condition and theres plenty of it left. I almost never have to top it up.
It doesnt HAVE to be, ideally you should be using tubeless ready tyres. However many people just increase the volume of sealant placed in the tyre to seal a non ready tyre.
Not if you have a proper tubeless rim. I mounted Maxxis Mammoth's on my fat bike rims with 0 issues and Maxxis explicitly says these aren't tubeless compatible
The reason Im asking: A few months back i converted to tubeless. The shop told me I had to buy a new tubeless tires as a normal tire wont work. I was standing there looking at both tires (tube and t. less tire) , which looks excatly the same to me, and I couldn't understand why a normal tire wont work. The shop also couldnt tell me. Thanks for the info guys. ps. I just think tubeless tire have better side wall protection.
I put sealant in my TUBE and it seals just the same and I have never had a "snake bite" flat or whatever. You basically just said, if you ride pro or race then yes there is a benefit but If you just commute or ride for fun, it is unnecessary.
Global Mountain Bike Network Not necessarily true... pinch flatted my Minion dhf plus in Moab last Sunday running tubeless. one puncture in the tread, and one right on the bead. Wouldn't seal...
If you inflate your tyres to the correct pressure and ride the correct terrain for the type of bike and don't ride a like a complete D you don't get pinch flats either. Also at 2KG, 100g is literally nothing and will make no difference at all. From personal experience a good set of tyres with a quality tube like the maxxis lightweight xc tube will very rarely puncture (i use maxxis crossmark tyres and those maxxis tubes). I would have to ride over a nail or break a glass bottle with the inflated tyre to puncture it. Also on the puncture test you are checking for a puncture on the complete opposite side of the wheel. You need to have rotated it an extra 180. I'm starting to think this video and you guys are full of shit.
Dave Williams there are plenty of vids to show what tubeless tires can go through and what tube can’t ... Always carry a tube for back up, but you guys are full of it trying to defend tubes so much
Green slime in my tubes for years, yes I still get punctures occasionally but I just patch those in a few minutes. Tubeless comes off the rim 30 miles from home and you really are stuck if it won't reseat properly. But then you carry a spare tube i guess.
Dany G Sealant for 2 wheels is $6, valves are $16, and gorilla tape is $4. That's $26. Let's say 10% tax just as a conservative number. $28.60 to setup your bike to tubeless. Where did you come up with $60?
A liquid sealing anyone can use also in the tube and so it seals not worse, but better than tubeless as with a tube one has also additional resistance towards the puncture compared to tubeless. This advantage of the tube you can even extend more by adding a shield between the tyre and the tube, which you cannot use in tubeless and again you can use a sealing liquide inside the tube and be not less, but more protected against puncture in any variant with tube with or without shield
im gunna have to say yes. i have 2 very bad/old/small rims and 2.4 inch continental trail king tires which i wouldn't even consider compatible together with a tube, i made the investment and spent a day and a half setting both of them up but now they're working great. I get a few burps when i run like 22psi in my front but i think thats just from having thin rims with wide tires. just go round the rim 2 - 3 times with some gorilla tape and try to get it seated with just soapy water first, watch at least 15 different videos and use every tip you can and you will get it to work
I would say be safe and confident in your TR setup and get proper tubeless compatible rims AND tires. Yes you can seal any rim with good tape and enough sealant that is not the problem and the same goes for tires. You can seal almost any tire with enough sealant. The problem may appear in that the tire bead is not seated properly in non tubeless rim and under heavy braking or cornering may actually unseat and blow off the rim. I am not saying you cant blow the tire off with proper TR rim and tire but it is much harder to do so. I have seen a wheel with non TR rim and non TR tire converted to tubeless explode overnight and painting the whole room with sealant.
So, looking at the weight savings of 100g per wheel being significant, how do you feel about 29" vs 27.5" wheels? And no cheating by comparing two different build level/prices!
makes me laugh when I see someone on YT saying tubeless isn't that expensive. If you don't get a puncture, a tube will last 5 years EASILY(would say more like 10, but I'll settle for 5), if you do, then for half the price of a tube you get a patch kit and fix at least 10 consecutive punctures. If you get tubeless you need extortionately priced rim tape (one hickup while taping and you need second set), extortionately priced sealant (which dries up way too quickly, so it's a pay-quarterly-tube) and you need extortionately priced valves. So the comparison is 1,5 to 2xtube price that will LAAAST vs 8xtube price and after 3-6months it becomes pay quarterly tubes. Also if you get injury at the begining of the season, you just wasted some sealant, but the tube will just wait for you at no extra cost. Amazing! Who would have thought it's possible not to pay for not riding! Also I got a punctures a few times and guess what? Terror! It wasn't "my ride is over" I fixed it and kept riding. Witch! Burn him!
3 tubes in one day LMAO, time to open your eyes while riding man or maybe time to learn to use a pump before riding once a week? Or maybe becoming a realist about your weight and tyre pressure required? OR 100% LEARN TO USE PATCHES? Don't know, but I NEVER had a tube blow out, or a snake bite. Most punctures per day: TWO=2 patches=0 tubes per day. I never even put a new tube after normal puncture. Smells like the other kind of blackberries ;-p
I'm usually lucky to get even one ride out of a tube. I've had tubeless last for six months without swapping fluid, even though you are supposed to replace fluid every 2-3 months. Fixing a flat is fucking pain in the ass, and Last time I had to do it, I went through 3 co2s and 2 tubes by the end of the ride. Back in the tubed days, I could blow through 6 tubes and still end up walking. With tubeless, my wheel is lighter, more reliable and I don't have to carry so much emergency garbage.
I know there are trails in the world with really sharp rocks etc. Mountains in Poland are quite a lot less demanding on the gear. BUT I've rode 45km marathon and rode few day trips in the mountains (living on the flats :-( ) and out of all this time in the mountains and the marathon, 2 punctures=2 patches=0 tubes. Tubeless doesn't cure sharp rock damage so my experience is still relevant. NoBrakes23 Your patching skill is worth shit :-) and You clearly are doing something wrong. BTW Like nature? WTF with using co2 and creating pointless garbage? My pump weight 60g and it's SOLID. Why ppl use co2 is beyond me. For pro riders? Ok, i get it. For EVERYBODY else? You're making Your ride "over" as YOU wish.
If you do get a puncture with tubeless for what ever reason, maybe something big hit the tire, how do you fix it at the side of the road or would you then put in an innertube to get you home?
So after a year riding tubeless im now riding bikeless, saves a lot of money and weight
Ha funny
Haha😂😂
Comment of the year!
you mean you gain weight ?
Oh shit you right! Thanks for the tip dad
I just take a dump before a bike ride, 5lb lighter!
Red Sev preach it brother! Preach!
I just made a similar comment, then scrolled down and read yours...its simple logic man! Haha. Good to know there's another genius in the room.
Dont forget to take a piss too for a few grams of weight as well!!
That's why I have a rear fender so I can drop one while riding without getting it on my bike.
Also if you ride naked you could lose weight to!!
just make sure you're fast enough to outrun the cops!😬👈
in fact , you're not saving 600g if you go tubeless you just save 200g and it doesn't matter if the bike if stationary or not. Inertia is calculated in kg/m² and it is not about weight but about how much a rotanional mass resists to a linear acceleration. so it may feel like you're having a much lighter bike but in fact it just because if your wheel is lighter you can accelerate easier and also brake easier because there is less inertia but the pay off is that your wheel will tend to not conserve its speed quit as much in bumpy terrain because it's lighter and has less inertia.
i do care about kg/m² XDscoty asked in the video if rotational mass made really you're bike like 3x lighter i answered... And maybe even though you doesn't care maybe other people will be interested
ahah of course i'm here to have fun on my bike that's the most important ... but my dream is to become a ingeneer in the bike industry to live my passion and just keep having fun on my bike so yeah i'm interested about the scientific stuff that goes around bike
Danny G you dont even watch the video what dafuq?
Most peps on bikes like flow trails , that sucks that is what is really wrong ...
Gauthier Vuitton well I appreciate this answer! I was only looking through the comments for this.
Gauthier Vuitton you are right in sense the more mass at a distance of r or radius increases inertia so the more mass you have on the rim the higher the inertia is. Also rotational energy takes away from linear energy so the more mass on the rim the slower the bike will go.
You don't get less punctures, you still get the same number of punctures, it's just that they seal up and don't stop your ride!
Yup
Actually not, you getting more punctures due to "snake bites"
I run tubeless without sealant. I carry a tube for puncture. Ive found that the sealant will seal the hole but only as a temporary measure. The hole WILL let a tiny amount of air out over time resulting in slow punctures. Its a nice idea as a get you home but, you will at some point have to drain all that sticky shit out clean all the sticky shit out in order to make a PROPER REPAIR WITH A PATCH!!
I am considering swap for tubeless and have in mind that what you wrote might happen so now I know I rather stay at normal tube.
@@rudimets4guitar Just convert to tubeless, its not gonna make you get more punctures
Ooff😦
This depends on the size of the puncture and the sealant used.
Well i hadnt any issues with punctures since i have tubeless even when parkriding. On the trailcasing tire i saw some white milk drops but they didnt leak even in the long run. I use stans sealant. Works great but dries up after 1 year
I did a poop and had to hide it inside my tubeless tire. Wouldn't have been possible if I had tubes in the tires so there.
Um... Ok?
r/cursedcomments
Lol same. I completely understand. One time I was trying backflips and the seat went up .... it made big hole and poop came out
@@londonola7977 what the hek
One day when I was out riding I had a flat 🚲.As I sat there wandering what to I decided to watch RUclips videos About tubeless Tires ,And I seen how you had pooped in a tire and it worked💩 !!!!So I decided to try it But after eating a bunch of spicy Mexican food At lunch🌮🌯 All that came out was diarrhea🙄 After feeling the tire up an airing it up 😷I took off? As I went down the road It kept making fart noises 😳People were very disgusted🤢 When I got back people kept asking who shit their pants🤮
All I could do was smile😬
I've been mountain biking since 1981, and riden over 200k miles. always on tube's, because you can put sealant in the tube and tape if you want. I haven't had a flat in years, riding all of the hardcore trail's here in Colorado. I have heard from everyone the benefits of tubeless and yes a little lighter. but if you cut the tire, or damage it. then it won't hold the bead and you have to install a tube to get back home, or walk. I just put a patch on the inside of the tire and fix the tube. all of the tubeless guys I Ride with carry tubes in their backpack. I just have to carry a patch kit, and that weighs about 2 oz. every ride, someone's fixing a tubeless setup. less drag and easier to get going from tubeless, true, but it's not that big a difference. I hardly know anyone who can keep up with me, especially on climbs. some guys will do anything to lose weight off of the bike, but I like a heavier bike, then when I Ride the light bike I'm even faster. I haven't had a flat in at least 9 years. I raced in norba at the semi pro level and am known all over Colorado. I don't understand tubeless. I like riding, not fixing
Same here. Haven't had a flat in years
What brand of tires and model are you riding?
I have rubber strips to deal with bigger punctures, and the sealant takes care of tye small things. My XC has saw ghettod system and i think the only thing that would require me to run tubes is a tear in the sidewall of the tyre or a split. Even then i dont think tubes would fix that.
I know you. You're that guy in Pine Junction that never gets flats! Kidding, but seriously, I agree. Still using tubes on my steel frame hardtail and never have flats. Until the next ride of course. Damn Karma.
Hey could you guys help me my mtb tyres always keep losing air i just replaced the tubes so how do i stop the air from going all the time its fucking pissing me off
What about rim tape? Didn't take that into consideration when weighing it all out.
Chris Pedro cause it was already installed ;)
bish no, you could see the spoke holes ffs
still would be lighter because both tubes and tubeless need rims tape
I imagine the rim strip you would use with a tube would be about the same weight, or heavier, than the rim tape used in tubeless applications, though it would have been nice for them to factor this in as well.
It was necessary to forget about it, so tubeless hype video can have 5 reasons. 5 is better than 4 ;-p
Two layers of Tesa 4289 19mm tape weight is 10g, so tubeless is still lighter, but i'm not a fan of it after trying the only sealant that makes sense for me-Slimepro. Green one is utter garbage but advertised as lasting 2 years(which made it sensible option). Also according to one review article, new formula is white-ish like the rest, doesn't last 2years anymore(gues why) BUT I bought a bottle that had "New formula" on it and inside green slime. So buyer beware, something's fishy going on. After that pleasant "money down the drain" experience I went back to good old tubes. Thumbs up, so buyers "can" beware :-)
I rode tubes for decades with no punctures, except for staples and nails on city rides.
My new bike came tubeless. They leak. Fast or slowly, they leak.
Press people hard enough and you'll eventually get the truth - they go from saying, "It never leaks" to "well, I only have to pump it up every week or 2".
Got tired of this crap, poured the sealant out and stuck tubes back in. Two years later, no flats, and I pump them up once at the beginning of the season.
BTW, my beater bike has schrader valves and they hold air perfectly.
Don't be pressured by trends. If you'd rather be riding than dealing with tubeless, then don't be afraid to make the switch.
I guess the majority of my bike riding was on the streets but as long as I had a high PSI tire the only chance I ever got snake bite or pinch the tubes if I really curb the tire bad. Which basically never happens if you're running a high pressure tire setup.
I guess mountain bikers like a lower PSI so that they have more grip and more cushion but it seems like a double-edged sword especially when they have such nice suspension options... why not have high tire pressure and cushy suspension?
"Tubeless is the greatest thing to happen to mountainbiking" - Every tubeless friend that still hasn't run a dropper post.
bro I will go dropper post. Last time I went trailing, I got nutted by the seat post really hard, I was off horsed from my MTB.
Bro that is totally me, but my giant stance 2 has a really crappy insertion length so I can’t with out it sticking up a bunch and only being good for climbing
I got a bike with a dropper today.
What a life changer. Best tech advance in bikes ever. I'm never being without one again.
@@xylerkajiyama7544 I had the same problem and I cut 3" off the bottom of my post, so now I can bottom out my seat.
What is a dropper post?
As an old time mountain biker I was skeptical when I switched to tubeless in the spring. I LOVE it! Thanks to GMBN for the tips on how to do it as well.
I switched from tubeless on my 29er, increased the pressure and to my surprise the rear gription is much better, more control, and I realize exactly how I was getting snake bites (banging sideways into a roadside curb) - so I just don't do that and runs great. Also with tubeless the tires went flat now and again! With tubes all is great and I want added weight as I am not worried about even many pounds more. I ride for fun and snowboard training. Yes, if racing a gram savings may well save a second of time in a 10k race I suppose! :-)
Now I'm 6sec faster and 200gr lighter, i rule the world.
Relax guys, bike industry always find new ways to take money. Buy a good bike and enjoy your rides.
The tires are for tubeless with extra side wall protection and weigh about 150g more than light weight tube versions. Also if you run latex tubes you could save another 80g per wheel. Tubeless is not lighter, but the ability to reduce pressure can definitely help.
@Hui Kai As other people mentioned, it is best to choose tubeless but with some tube, in case there will be no possibility to repair tubeless properly.
What "extra sidewall protection" are you talking about? I run Rene Herse with the extralight casing tubeless. Why do you think the sidewall thickness is relevant to tubeless?
I love it when he said "less punctures" but wink with left eye(does it means that he is pulling our leg?)
Looks expensive and messy for only marginal gains. I'm no pro rider, so I'll just stick to what's easy and cheap.
Easy and cheap. Not something any man should ever aspire to.
Well ive got no fucking money
Just the fact that the sealant blocks the holes was like waaaay to good to be true when i first heard about it, all the other imporovements are just a bonus.
Arbiter MTB it costs £4 a wheel bro, if that’s unachievable i think your in the wrong sport bruvva.
@@Whaiesh3827 neither have i 😂
1. You use a heavy tube(225gr) and forget about a rim tape. The tube rim tape is lighter than tubeless. You can get equal wheels. And sometimes some riders use additional tubeless racing systems like the HuckNorris and it adds weight.
2. Doesn't work for the 1st reason.
3,4,5 - Absolutely agree :)
"if you had a tube in side that wheel, if you went and stabbed that in, it would be game over."
Not necessarily. Especially not if you had a tube filled with sealant much like you're tire. They still make that product for tube based setups as well. Not exactly the most unbiased example, which seems to be a frequent occurrence here.
Well if you have the tube with sealant in it then it's even heavier than just the tube.
It Is 100 GrAmS LiGhTeR.
Yeah you're more screwed with tubeless.
Kenda tire tubes come with green slimy stuff they call quick seal inside of them
Green slime in my tubes for years, yes I still get punctures occasionally but I just patch those in a few minutes.
Tubeless comes off the rim 30 miles from home and you really are stuck if it won't reseat properly.
I got a puncture while riding yesterday and that and this vid was enough to convince me to go tubeless
0:32 Scotty has turned into a comedian!
did he mean to say hey presta I'm not convinced lol
He definitely meant to say it, it was "pesto" last week, "presta" this week, and next week? Pista? Pressfit?
@@chw0112 presta valve
Scotty, you was listening to the wrong part of the wheel for air. 🤘🏻😂💨
Did I miss the tape for the tubeless rim?............it all adds up.
Just done it after 5y of xc mtb- best decision of my life after, getting a powermeter! Gained some time on all of the downhill strava segments. Dont even think about it. #gotubeless
are you serious, what were you doing all your life
Stanislav what kind of power meter did you get?
It's also important that you're dealing with *unsprung* mass here (mass which is not isolated from the terrain by the suspension). The lighter unsprung assembly is easier for the suspension to control. For example, the spring can more rapidly accelerate the wheel toward the ground after a bump which increases the amount of time the tire is in contact with the ground.
Would be fun to make a blind test, I personally don't think I would notice the difference 😃
Better try it then and report back...
I will never ever run tubeless again. It's useless if you don't refill every other month. Now I run tubes, trouble free. I don't even have to refill air in the tires every ride 🤗
@@stianjarnass You wont feel a difference if theyre at the same pressure. You can run lower pressure on tubeless but thats about it. Punctures are worst since you have to patch them everytime eitherways.
I tried doing a blind test, but the blind guy kept running off the trail into trees.
A mass in linear motion has the kinetic energy: E_lin = 1/2*m*v^2 (where v is the linear velocity)
A wheel moves in what we call "general motion", IE combined linear and rotational motion. Therefore it has both the linear energy and the rotational energy: E_rot = 1/2*I_pol*omega^2. The polar moment of inertia is I_pol = m*r^2
(omega is the angular velocity, omega = v/r ) Put this into the formula for rotational energy:
E_rot = 1/2*m*r^2*(v/r)^2=1/2*m*v^2
Adding the two, we see that we get double the kinetic energy. This means that we have to put in double the effort to accelerate a wheel comparing to something that only moves in a linear fashion, such as the frame. The wheel maintains the rotational energy, and it doesn't make a difference going at a constant speed or even uphill. However, a heavier wheel will also increase the gyroscopic effect making it less nimble.
On the contrary, having glue slushing around in the tyres drains some energy aswell.
Well I guess you wrote it a lot nicer than me. :[
(btw. it is correct if someone needed a second opinion)
**just an minor addition for anyone who might try to apply these equations on something different: 1.) I_pol = m*r^2 is the Inertia of a ideal ring, and no other shape 2.) These equations are to be perfomed as vector calculations, only in simple movements can they be writen as standart multiplications.
Moment of inertia affects only changes of speed - accelerating or braking. While rolling straight with constant speed ligher wheels do not make you faster (due to smaller moment of inertia). Did you mention?
Changes to velocity, rather. Mix in additional affects that a resistant to turning and require additional torque to change the angular momentum of each wheel.
@Mark T. Is it easier or harder to do a whip or a table top with heavy wheels?
when do you ever travel at a constant speed on a mountain bike? you're always trying to accelerate so it's always beneficial
In the climbs!
@Colin Hamilton ha ha
The moment of inertia thing is important when accelerating, braking, and turning, (anything involving a change of velocity) but it's always worth adding the caveat that 100g mass in a climb is always 100g mass.
Does the tape have any weight? The rim doesn't look taped up for tubeless.
Some tapes are really heavy, like gorilla tape (read somewhere that it can add up to 90 or so grams). Others are a lot lighter. Overall, compared using large, thick tubes it will always be lighter but not as much of a difference if you use heavy-duty tape.
90 grams for the whole roll maybe not for the tiny bit you need to put around ur rim
Thing is, some users tape rims twice. And then (independent from the former), the sealant doesn't vanish in 3-4 months (when it should be swapped for fresh one), some of it sticks to the rim, edge of tape, or tyre as solid residue. This adds to the weight of your wheelset in the long run.
Thanks for the replies--there sure is a lot of thought on either side of the debate on which is better, running tubes or going tubeless. I ride 200 miles a week, commuting and riding errands, and I ride through a lot of gravel and gunk on the shoulders of farm roads, and I am still riding with tubes and I am limiting flats pretty much through the use of stout road rubber and tire liners, with an extra layer or two of electrical tape around the rims. Still, the whole tubeless deal has me curious, so I'll likely give it a go, if only to see if it works for me.
Robb Chastain if u do you will make stan as rich as the Donald
You can use tire liners like Mr. Tuffy on tube tires. These work well at flat prevention. I have not had a flat on my mountain bike for years using these and they have been very effective on my road bike as well. Draw back : more rotational mass. Plus side : maintenance free, unlike tire sealant.
I used Slime when it first came out and with about 3 weeks I had rocks rolling around inside my tire - dried slime.
My feeling is for recreational mountain biking it might be worth it but for recreational road riding I will stick with tubes.
Because it’s the best thing since slice bread. It has its pros and cons but the amount of flats I have had in the last thirty years. I wish I could convert every bicycle I own. I am still not brave enough to try them on a road bike yet.
There are all sorts of reasons for going tubeless but most of the comments have been about the weight saving , ( and a fair bit about the weight of the rim tape) so I thought I would just add this to the pot for a stir . The 26 x 2.1 Kenda slant 6s I have come as tube only 120 dpi DTC and 120 dpi DTC + SCT. The SCT were slightly more than 100 gm heavier than the tube only tyre as the side walls were thicker and stiffer. The tube only tyres were not available in Aust and the SCT was what the bike shop ordered in for me. You can feel the 100 gm and the stiffer sidewalls for sure on the front. I was going to convert it to tubeless but found the tube only ones in the UK for half price and stuck with tubes. Only had 2 pinch flats in the last 6 years when I was too lazy to check the pressures before the ride. (we have pretty smooth tracks before I accused of not riding enough)
a whopping 100 grams per tire, that's going to make me Hella Lot Faster, undalay undalay!!!
yeah but take 100g of a frame and dentists throw thousands at you.
@@truantray why dentists? Lol
Delay?
@@attheendofthedayx2933 you fall and your theets fall out
Its 600g for the moment of inertia, it will be noticeable when braking or accelerating.
I just made the upgrade , I ripped of the tubeless liner and drilled the presta rim valve holes for shreader valves and added fuc**ing tubes!!!, no hassle , more accessible and ease of flat repair , cheaper and compatible with 99% of air pumps .
I recently converted my bike to tubeless and obviously it’s good I will get less flats, but the thing that’s blown my mind is the difference in the way the bike feels. It’s so much easier to ride uphill for whatever reason, I’m pissing up hills I that have always gassed me. Also, my bunny hops are better and it feels way smoother and more planted on downhill trails. I will never go back to tubes that is for sure!
I am new to this biking thing so watching these videos with keen interest. Personally from experience racing cars the less sprung weight in the wheel rim would not be noticeable when pedalling due to the speeds obtained. The real benefit would be in the suspension. Less sprung weight allows the wheel to react faster to the bumps without having too soft settings in the suspension. This will give a lot more grip over fast bumpy terrain. In this instance 100g is a monumental amount. Please let me know if this is different on a bike. Love your videos.
i went tubeless and will never look back its just better and a more advanced way to role
Al caholic or roll 🤣
I have a number 6. I think the reason people are still riding on tubes is the fear of a massive failure. I.e - big hole, tyre coming off rim on big corner, gunk everywhere and no way to repair. It's worth remembering you can get repair kits, and even whip out the valves and chuck a tube in there to get home. Just go tubeless, it's better ; )
I use heavy duty slime (can fix punctures up to a quarter inch!!) in my tubes along with protective strips between the tube and tire. This setup is a lot stronger and way more puncture resistant than the expensive and annoying/hard to use tubeless setup....... Sorry but just because a idea is newer doesn't make it better.
Well if you can read I said "newer" idea. 1 The detachable tire was introduced in 1891 by Édouard Michelin. It was held on the rim with clamps, instead of glue, and could be removed to replace or patch the separate inner tube. 2 Many patents had been filed covering tubeless tires. Killen Tire applied for a patent in 1928 and was granted GB patent 329955 in the UK in 1930. The Wingfoot Corporation, a subsidiary of Goodyear Tire were granted a patent in South Africa in 1944. Due to technical problems, most of these designs only saw limited production or were abandoned. - Not that hard to find out lol.
Our neighbouring countryside has hawthorn and blackthorn hedges littered with wild roses and brambles. The farmers cut the hedges mechanically littering the neighbourhood tracks with thorns. The dog and I go on daily bike rides and I have mended scores of punctures over the years for myself and the family. This year I bought a new (to me) mountain bike with tubeless tyres. I have plucked several thorns from it's tyres with a resultant small puff of air for a fraction of a second followed by a small weep as it sealed. There are likely more unseen thorns lurking in the tyres. I do not miss mending punctures.
Tubes are just easier to me ive tried both and just hate the faf and mess of tubeless when it does let go out on a ride and I end up putting a tube in to get home. the weight thing I really did not notice either.
my best bike was when I was a kid with solid tyres my dad put screws in them when it snowed lol. : p
Went tubeless and I'm going back to slime tubes. Tubeless is good but it's leak rate is much faster than a tube. I'm topping mine up with air every 2 weeks whereas, with slime tubes I can go months without having to add air. That was the kicker for me
I had Slime tubes in the past and it was unable to fix a puncture when happen. Only slime going out of the tube. So I get back to std tubes. Now, I think to try tubeless, but hearing people struggling with sealant, I am little afraid to switch. Also adding sealant regularly increase weight, so at the end, it is the same weight as a tube...
A tube is so easy to change in the middle of nowhere as long as you have a spare patch/tube and a pump. I'm doing 2/3 road 1/3 trail everyday, so I'm bot sure rolling at 20 PSI will be a good thing on road.
I run sealant in my tubes and I carry a spare tube with me (two on long group rides) and a patch kit. I've had two flats, both instances that would've flattened a sealant filled tubeless (big holes).
Once, large thorn, patched the tube, was on the road in less than 10 minutes.
Other time a large nail left two big holes in the tread and sidewall. Tubeless would've left me stranded (tire is really too big to practically carry a spare, I think). I changed the tube, lining the holes with a piece cut off of the old innertube, limped home without incident.
I'll keep my tubes, thank you.
I’ve been a tubeless sceptic for years. I then got a bike which was already set up with the tyres wheels and tape to convert to tubeless (it even came with valves) so I decided to give it a go.
The rotational weight saving was noticeable and the suppleness over rocky ground was awesome. The ability to jam up a big hole with a plug in seconds was a bonus too.
3 years on however, I have a new bike - it has tubes but the tyres and rims are tubeless ready aaand… I’m sticking with tubes for now. Sure you spend less time repairing inner tubes when tubeless but you instead spend hours of your life picking off dry sealant from your tyre beads, cleaning out stanimals, replacing the sealant and wrestling your tyre back onto the rim, you have to pump your tyre up before each ride, and you hold all your friends back on rides pumping your slowly deflating tyre back up because your tyre bead has split slightly and won’t seal with the rim, until you give up and fit a slimy inner tube because your tubeless system has failed.
I may go back to tubeless, but the differences I felt was on a hardtail - I’m now on a 160mm travel full sus… I can’t imagine those minor gains will be as noticeable as the huge reduction of faff I will encounter from riding tubes again.
Firstly there was no rim tape added, second tubeless specific tires weigh more than standard (inner tube) tires.
Well, my buddy went tubeless 1year ago and ended up pushing his bike down the mountain 2x with flats on store installed tubeless.. I still ride the same tubes I had when he changed. Once that ratio changes I might give it a try..
I've been running tubeless for over 18 months now and personally would not go back to tubes. That said, tubeless can be trickier to set up correctly. Your riding style, weight, type of track, tyre/rim combination can all play their part, especially with tyre pressures. As for the expense, I've always used electrical insulation tape instead of proper rim tape and never had a leak, and replaced the fluid every 6 months, again, no issues or punctures.
Mark Humphrey taking the tires off to clean out and replace the goop ?
No thanks.
If you're tubeless your pubeless
@@BigEightiesNewWave replacing tubes are also hard to do.
I've been running tubeless for a year, I ❤️ tubeless 😍
u forgot rim tape, and you are using a tubless tire in place of a non tubeless tire which is much lighter an thinner.... so tubeless is not any lighter, folding non tubeless tires are much lighter than tubeless tires
Bought some tubeless sealant, put it in the tyre all going well. Couldn't get the tyre back on, broke a sweat doing it and poured the sealant out and stuck a tune back in to then take an extra half an hour getting the last 5 cm of tyre on
The reason I haven't tried tubeless is because of the ease to change tyres with tubes, depending on where your riding. But I have an idea about going tubeless is messy and needs alot of cleaning everytime you need a tyre change! Is this correct?
Changing a tyre isn't any harder or messier, however you will need to replace the sealant. So if you are changing tyres really often maybe tubes would better.
@not tryna argue but absolutely how is cleaning up sealant just as messy as not? sealant dries up and fixes to the tyre and rim to or just stays wet and more difficult to clean, what mess is there with tubes?
I just converted my bike tonight using Stan's sealant and Stan's valves. Using my Bontrager tubeless ready (no tape) wheels and one Maxxis DHR II, one Specialized Slaughter. ~20 minutes each for first time.
Nice one :)
So when I get a snake bite/pinch puncture with my tubes, I would get a dent in my rim with no tubes? Because I don’t wanna dent my rim but also want to go tubeless and lower tire pressure and less wight
My new bike will be tubeless but I’m going to put tubes in along with Kevlar Strips inside the tyres, I’ve been riding 2 years on them and never had a puncture. These and the seat dropped and the two best innovations in my opinion lol
I went tubless because the other day I was in the middle of a race run and hit a rock and put a small hole in my tyre, since I was tubless It filled the hole and ended up getting 3rd in the stage 😍
Hi Mister, didn't read all 563 comments so far, so maybe its already said...
When it comes to acceleration, you need twice as much muscle grease for a certain weight added at the outer radius of your wheel, compared to the same weight added to the frame. That is, because you have to accelerate it in the direction of the trail plus in the direction of the rotation.
When using tubes, you should/can use lighter tires to get the right amount of damping and not an overly hard wheel. That can easily save you more than 100g.
When you want a softer tire, running lower tire preasure, to get an enlarged contact patch to your dirt, you have to take a wider tire to not pinch flat it. I think, running tubeless to be able to ride on your rims is no option. The next step is to get some carbon rims and foam inlays to ding the rims with no consequences... but don't ask for weight savings anymore.
My decision is to run tubes and appropriate tires, cause I don't like the hassle with the juice, when changing treads. I am not racing, so, when sharp rocks are in sight, I don´t have to go full throttle anyway...
If you like the extra puncture protection, shredding raspberry bushes, go tubeless.
Haven't got a single puncture when riding with tubes, also the process of converting to tubeless is messy and too much of a hassle for me.
Lazarus Maximus Then don't. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Use solid rubber tubes...
No punctures? You are just not riding enough...
It's time to stop Get some help yep even tubeless I get flats
you obviously dont bike much
You also can't use a innertube protector between the tire and the tube which adds a tremendous amount of protection to getting a flat
The weight savings of tubeless is offset by the 60-80 grams of carbs Scotty is consuming.
8 days ago a friend of mine (in tubeless wheels) had an incident and we can "repair" the tire, I was unable to help, I use tube but all my equipment and tools was usseless against the emergency.
so my questions for your next tubeless video are.
1. how to, and what to carry to fix a mayor cut (say like a 1/4") cut in a tubeless tire?
2. can a tubeless tire support a tube after a mayor cut or several punctures?
3. how long is the usefull life of a tubeless wheel vs a tube wheel?
nice video by the way see you the next one. and greetings from Colombia.
you should carry two things: an emergency repair kit and a standard tube. if the hole is too big just line it with strong paper (money) or a piece of plastic before inserting the tube.
there is also an (special) patch you can glue on the inside, but once you removed the tire from the rim it is hard to but it back on with just a small hand pump.
The emergancy repair kit is a rubberized string and a insertion tool.
I am a scientist. It takes F = m * a to accelerate the mass of the wheel. It takes M = I * w_dot to make the wheel rotate. As you showed I = m * r^2, also M = F * r and w_dot = a / r. This gives F * r = m * r^2 * a / r which can be simplified to F = m * a, showing that at worst there is another force of equal size, i.e., at worst the mass of the wheel feels as twice the mass of the non rotational mass. This is only during acceleration though, it has no effect on climbing or rolling resistance.
Please listen to this guy! Short, simple and absolutely correct explanation. I used to be a scientist ;)
Climbing can be treated as a constant acceleration, can't it? You're constantly working against gravity resp. the downhill slope force, which accelerates your bike in the opposite direction and wants to pull you back to the foot of the mountain.
The last calculation I've seen regarding wheel weight has put it at around 1.8 compared to non rotational mass though. No idea where the 3x in this video comes from.
You normally climb at a constant speed. Constant speed means zero acceleration by definition. Gravity causes acceleration when you ride downhill. :)
This number depends on where you save weight along the radius of the wheel. As shown in the video, I = m * r^2, where r is maximum at the circumference of the wheel and r = 0 on the axle. (And m is a point mass at distance r from the axle, not the weight of the whole wheel, actually.) So, even hub rotates, lighter hub will not decrease rotational mass a lot. But lighter tires and rims will.
But you aren't really travelling at a constant speed while climbing, are you? Unless you have perfect pedalling efficiency with machine-like precision, you're constantly decelerating due to the downhill slope force, and accelerating again because of your pedal strokes.
However it just occurred to me, the deceleration process would probably be at a slower rate for heavier wheels due to inertia, so this might cancel at least some of it out. Would be interesting to see some actual calculation for this.
I've had diarrhea for 19 days.
You can get self-sealing inner tubes they work fine for me I have four of them haven't had a flat tire since I got them best £140 I've ever spent
So it's official I've been riding pantsless for the past year, and I've got two summons and I'm now registered as a sex offender. Can't recommend enough.
Yeah but you’re saving weight on your ride
Just getting into mountain biking (and currently running tubeless) … Assume and all of these videos I watch where people are bringing an “extra tube“ is for those times when the tire pops a bead or the tubeless system fails? Assume then that the process would be to put a tube in the tire and finish out the trail?
Tubeless absolute waste of time, effort and money in my experience. I’ve had rocks put holes in tyre side walls that it obviously can’t seal, then you have a right mess on your hands putting a tube in. Also the amount of times I come back to bike in garage and the tyres have gone flat after a week of being stood, valves that won’t seal into rims, valves that the inner comes out with the cap because the sealant has glued them together is always a good one on a ride when you want to let a bit of air out not the whole lot. If someone offered you two options a messy option with a tyre and bead that’s hard to break and make and impossible to fix out and about without a tube and you have to keep replacing the sealant (bloody joke)or a tyre with a tube that you fix with a glue less patch or replace tube for a few quid and no mess, I know which option I’ve gone back too and others I ride with have as well, just companies trying to make more dosh. Rant over haha.
After going tubeless I leave the pump at home saving weight. Helpful video. Cheers!
just checked Stan's rim tape. That actualy weighs 59 grams. Two rims makes 118 grams.
David Bakker-Wester that’s for a whole roll. For enough to go around the rim, it’s only 5 grams
60 grams of tape for a single twheel? The fuck? That's absurd. That's a whole roll of tape. Whixh could probably cover 5 whole rims.
I use tubes with sealent inside so I don't get flats and I can swap tyres whenever I want. I put slicks on to ride to the nearest mountain and then my friends bring me my dh tyres to have some fun...
I went boobless cause my GF left me
At 2:10 says that we “upgraded” by saving rotation “mass” and also says rotational “weight”. So by upgrade is he considering less rotational inertia is an advantage in starting, stopping, however also less roll inertia which I would think is beneficial. However I mainly disagree with his word use of weight.
TL;DR: you need 2x the energie to speed up a rotational mass (in form of a ring, and constant non slipping contact)
Inertia is dependent on the shape of the object. For an ideal ring it is I = m*r^2. However what you are interestet is the kinetik energie (T) which is composed of translation and rotation. therefor: T = 1/2*m*v^2 + 1/2*w*L (w = v*r :rotational speed, L= I*w :moment of Inertia) .--> T=m*v^2
technically these calculations are performed as vector and matrix magic. but the youtube comment section is not the best place too get your science degree anyways...
Fun fact: They use Latex as part of the sealant and for papers in engineering. ;-)
a scheiße... englisch und das k --> c und ie --> y, aber ist ja nur youtube comment
Forgot to add the weight of the tape or tubeless rim strip, that rim has spoke holes, tubeless specific tires are heavier with thicker side walls too.
well there are tubes on the market which have some seeling in them allready
But they would be heavier still. Anyway, the point about tyre deformation (which you want for grip) still stands. :)
Slime tubes are scams and dont actually do anything useful
Ole Gross and they don't seal that well, are heavy, and still are prone to snake bites. They also have an uneven rotational mass and slow rolling resistance.
I've had slime tubes work just fine. Tubeless is better, but slime isn't bad.
I have run slime tubes for years and have had one puncture with them, you can see that they work just by taking the tube out and looking at all the holes it has sealed.
The answer to the question at 2:51 - yes you are correct, although it’s a bit more accurate to account for the thickness of the rim using the following equation:
I = (1/2)*M*(r_outer^2 - r_inner^2)
Where M is the mass, r_outer and r_inner are the inner and outer radii of the rim from the center of the hub, and I is the inertia.
That said, I = MR^2 is going to give you a very close answer to the exact version.
i popped my tire that had a tube tire
now i have to replace the w h o l e w h e e l
I've been mountain biking for 26 years, and after owning my first tubeless ready bike for 7 months, I finally set up my tubeless wheels. I like the ride, but what a pain in the ass setting them up. Also, being a motorcyclist as well, I look at the tubeless wheels on the BMW adventure bikes and predict that bike wheels will soon go through a massive design change. Beemer wheels have a separate inboard flange where the spokes attach, leaving a rim cavity with no spoke holes and no need for sealant! The present method of sealing tubeless wheels is truly "reinventing the wheel"!
I just want to know......
what is a Tshhube?
It's the kind of tube Sean Connery puts on his bikes.
#5 after first time trying tubles i was surprised that its software and small bumps or rocks roots a lot more forgiven i didn't think that it was tubless thing but now i know
New bike is tubeless, curious to know the cons as well🤔
slime tubes work very well, I've use them in some very rough and thorny terrain and had like 3 wet spots (where the slime was released after tire being punctured). my tires are still holding the psi, this was last week.
Finally, now I prove it to my dad
I use milkit to add pressure and sealant. On one occasion, I forgot to release the pressure in the tyre. When I opened the valve on the milkit syringe I got a face full of sealant as did the cat who was watching me.
FEWER PUNCTURES!!! Not 'less punctures' you're a professional journalist man!!
Oh boy watch out here comes the English Nazi's hold the line men we will find someone who gives a shit 😂 fucking retards
Tubeless is just one of many in along list of trends that people want to get on board with. I bought a used GIANT MTB that had a tubeless setup. They went to the scrap heat before the bike hit the pavement.
Surely riding lower pressures will cause rim damage risks?
Correct
I never quite understood that alleged advantage of tubeless either. If I was getting pinch flats using inner tubes, I wouldn't want to be running that low of pressure on a tubeless setup either.
So maybe you get less punctures but there is another alternative to either of these set ups. If you use 26" tubes inside of your 27.5 or 29 tires you actually end up being slightly lighter than all of the tubeless stuff. And yes they do over inflate to fill the tire just fine. I have been running 26x2.1 tubes in my 29x2.4 tires for 3 months and haven's had any issues.
Does every tyre change require new sealant? For example after 2 weeks of riding I need to change the tyres to aggressive threaded ones - for muddy weekend, and then I'm comming back to standard tyres. Do I need to use 400 ml of new sealant or can I "recycle" any?
It can be a pain to swap tires. You can reuse the sealant but you will end up spilling and needing to add more each time. As someone that gets a lot of thorns, I still think it's worth it.
Marcin Jończyk Might as well just put new sealant in when you change tires. Can try to pour out some of the old stuff into the new tire but probably best to add new stuff. I got a 32oz bottle of sealant and it should last a long long time.
If you swap tires regurarly you can reuse the sealant. I have big syringe just for this and I always try to salvage as much sealant as possible. When changing tires around once a month the sealant is still in good condition and theres plenty of it left. I almost never have to top it up.
I prefer tube i never get punctures any way schwalbe nobby nics have served me very well, nice to know info though thanks for the video!
Dont you need a tubeless tire as well? Or can you use any tire?
thanks
It doesnt HAVE to be, ideally you should be using tubeless ready tyres. However many people just increase the volume of sealant placed in the tyre to seal a non ready tyre.
I ran without TR tires for about 6 months with no issues. I actually preferred them to my TR Maxxis Icons that I have now.
Not if you have a proper tubeless rim. I mounted Maxxis Mammoth's on my fat bike rims with 0 issues and Maxxis explicitly says these aren't tubeless compatible
The reason Im asking: A few months back i converted to tubeless. The shop told me I had to buy a new tubeless tires as a normal tire wont work. I was standing there looking at both tires (tube and t. less tire) , which looks excatly the same to me, and I couldn't understand why a normal tire wont work. The shop also couldnt tell me. Thanks for the info guys. ps. I just think tubeless tire have better side wall protection.
I put sealant in my TUBE and it seals just the same and I have never had a "snake bite" flat or whatever. You basically just said, if you ride pro or race then yes there is a benefit but If you just commute or ride for fun, it is unnecessary.
"You get less punctures".
Uh, not true. Technically both configurations would get the tool puncture, one setup just happens to stop the loss of air.
Hey, by running tubeless you also eliminate the chance of pinch flats. So less punctures :)
Global Mountain Bike Network Not necessarily true... pinch flatted my Minion dhf plus in Moab last Sunday running tubeless. one puncture in the tread, and one right on the bead. Wouldn't seal...
If you inflate your tyres to the correct pressure and ride the correct terrain for the type of bike and don't ride a like a complete D you don't get pinch flats either. Also at 2KG, 100g is literally nothing and will make no difference at all. From personal experience a good set of tyres with a quality tube like the maxxis lightweight xc tube will very rarely puncture (i use maxxis crossmark tyres and those maxxis tubes). I would have to ride over a nail or break a glass bottle with the inflated tyre to puncture it.
Also on the puncture test you are checking for a puncture on the complete opposite side of the wheel. You need to have rotated it an extra 180. I'm starting to think this video and you guys are full of shit.
Dave Williams there are plenty of vids to show what tubeless tires can go through and what tube can’t ...
Always carry a tube for back up, but you guys are full of it trying to defend tubes so much
@@gmbn In about 35 years of cycling, I have never, not even ONCE, had a pinch flat.
Green slime in my tubes for years, yes I still get punctures occasionally but I just patch those in a few minutes.
Tubeless comes off the rim 30 miles from home and you really are stuck if it won't reseat properly.
But then you carry a spare tube i guess.
Great now tell us why you shouldn't change to tubeless!
Dany G Sealant for 2 wheels is $6, valves are $16, and gorilla tape is $4. That's $26. Let's say 10% tax just as a conservative number. $28.60 to setup your bike to tubeless. Where did you come up with $60?
@@themlgpizza5718 the tire price you fucking idiot.
@@rosaliovillegas3862 wait, you're telling me I can run a tube without a tire? No? Then other than what he listed the price is the same
A liquid sealing anyone can use also in the tube and so it seals not worse, but better than tubeless as with a tube one has also additional resistance towards the puncture compared to tubeless. This advantage of the tube you can even extend more by adding a shield between the tyre and the tube, which you cannot use in tubeless and again you can use a sealing liquide inside the tube and be not less, but more protected against puncture in any variant with tube with or without shield
Can you do this with any rim or do you need a specific rim?
Having a tubeless ready rim makes life a lot easier, a good wide rim might work even if it's not tubeless ready, but tubeless ready tyres are a must
im gunna have to say yes. i have 2 very bad/old/small rims and 2.4 inch continental trail king tires which i wouldn't even consider compatible together with a tube, i made the investment and spent a day and a half setting both of them up but now they're working great. I get a few burps when i run like 22psi in my front but i think thats just from having thin rims with wide tires.
just go round the rim 2 - 3 times with some gorilla tape and try to get it seated with just soapy water first, watch at least 15 different videos and use every tip you can and you will get it to work
My rims are not TR and it still works great for me on both my MTB and my CX bikes. I just added a little more tape.
Alright thank you all. I think I'm going to buy some new rims since mine are shit anyways.
I would say be safe and confident in your TR setup and get proper tubeless compatible rims AND tires.
Yes you can seal any rim with good tape and enough sealant that is not the problem and the same goes for tires. You can seal almost any tire with enough sealant. The problem may appear in that the tire bead is not seated properly in non tubeless rim and under heavy braking or cornering may actually unseat and blow off the rim. I am not saying you cant blow the tire off with proper TR rim and tire but it is much harder to do so. I have seen a wheel with non TR rim and non TR tire converted to tubeless explode overnight and painting the whole room with sealant.
So, looking at the weight savings of 100g per wheel being significant, how do you feel about 29" vs 27.5" wheels? And no cheating by comparing two different build level/prices!
makes me laugh when I see someone on YT saying tubeless isn't that expensive.
If you don't get a puncture, a tube will last 5 years EASILY(would say more like 10, but I'll settle for 5), if you do, then for half the price of a tube you get a patch kit and fix at least 10 consecutive punctures.
If you get tubeless you need extortionately priced rim tape (one hickup while taping and you need second set), extortionately priced sealant (which dries up way too quickly, so it's a pay-quarterly-tube) and you need extortionately priced valves. So the comparison is 1,5 to 2xtube price that will LAAAST vs 8xtube price and after 3-6months it becomes pay quarterly tubes. Also if you get injury at the begining of the season, you just wasted some sealant, but the tube will just wait for you at no extra cost. Amazing! Who would have thought it's possible not to pay for not riding!
Also I got a punctures a few times and guess what? Terror! It wasn't "my ride is over" I fixed it and kept riding.
Witch! Burn him!
3majsie maciek I have gone through 3 tubes in one day 5 years lmao
at least 5 years I would say even 30 years
3 tubes in one day LMAO, time to open your eyes while riding man or maybe time to learn to use a pump before riding once a week? Or maybe becoming a realist about your weight and tyre pressure required? OR 100% LEARN TO USE PATCHES? Don't know, but I NEVER had a tube blow out, or a snake bite. Most punctures per day: TWO=2 patches=0 tubes per day. I never even put a new tube after normal puncture. Smells like the other kind of blackberries ;-p
I'm usually lucky to get even one ride out of a tube. I've had tubeless last for six months without swapping fluid, even though you are supposed to replace fluid every 2-3 months. Fixing a flat is fucking pain in the ass, and Last time I had to do it, I went through 3 co2s and 2 tubes by the end of the ride. Back in the tubed days, I could blow through 6 tubes and still end up walking. With tubeless, my wheel is lighter, more reliable and I don't have to carry so much emergency garbage.
I know there are trails in the world with really sharp rocks etc. Mountains in Poland are quite a lot less demanding on the gear. BUT I've rode 45km marathon and rode few day trips in the mountains (living on the flats :-( ) and out of all this time in the mountains and the marathon, 2 punctures=2 patches=0 tubes. Tubeless doesn't cure sharp rock damage so my experience is still relevant.
NoBrakes23 Your patching skill is worth shit :-) and You clearly are doing something wrong. BTW Like nature? WTF with using co2 and creating pointless garbage? My pump weight 60g and it's SOLID. Why ppl use co2 is beyond me. For pro riders? Ok, i get it. For EVERYBODY else? You're making Your ride "over" as YOU wish.
the tubeless system seals punctures but there is still holes into your tire, changed to DD casing to avoid the sidewall tears that i found
you forgot to check the rim tape. that alone is more than 100 grams.
wtf are you using as rim tape?
Kriss Andrejevs I use strips of roofing lead and tar. Just ment to say they forgot the tape in their test.
Stan just told me he doesn't like his rim taped.
100 grams lmao
It was alredy installed
If you do get a puncture with tubeless for what ever reason, maybe something big hit the tire, how do you fix it at the side of the road or would you then put in an innertube to get you home?