Sewing smooth bias tape facings for armholes: unlock the secrets!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Learn the secret to sewing a flawless bias tape facing around armholes in this tutorial! If you've been frustrated with puckers, wrinkles, or pulling, this is what you've been missing! Learn two simple ways to create a smooth facing that will level up your sleeveless armholes, or any inner curves! 🧵
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Music: RUclips Audio Library
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#sewingtutorial #sewingtips #sewing
I just learned about bias tape today (I've been sewing for all my life, and up until recently I've been just winging it- with wildly varying success) and this is the best and most informative video about how to use it! Thanks for saving me from a whole bunch of hurdles!
You're so welcome, hope it helps your future bias tape adventures!
It can also be done by either running a wide seam on the fold line of the bias tape, or running a small basting stitches by hand on the fold of bias tape then pulling the thread which will make this edge shorter instead of pinning. By pinning sometimes it happens that you end up stretching shirt because of the ease.
About ironing bias tape remember it should always be done on the grain line of the fabric, otherwise you will end up ruining the purpose of being bias. Hope I explained it clearly
Mind blown. Thank you for showing us the right way to sew in bias tape. I’ve always struggled with it.
Thanks, hope it helps!
There needs to be the sewing equivalent of a nobel prize so that this video can be awarded it.
Thank you!! 🥹
Thank you! No more “pouting lips” on my bias finished curves! ❤❤❤
You're welcome! Also that's a great term, ha ha!
Just what I needed! Thank you so much for this! I just couldn't figure out why my armholes were flaring out at the side seam after applying the bias binding. I had already redone the armholes twice with terrible results. Your tutorial explained everything perfectly and as another commenter stated, was life changing. 😊
Holy moly, this is a game-changer! I too have been stretching bias tape. 😬 NEVER AGAIN!
This was really helpful! I have never bound an armhole because I didn't want that curving towards the outside. But I might do it now!
My actual problem is bias binding the outside of a tight curve. I always get lots of puckering and a serious curve towards the inside.
Thanks! Do you mean on an outer curve, like a scallop or corner of a quilt? I don't think I've ever done an outside curve with bias tape (or at least not that I can recall) but assuming there's some good tips from quilters as they do that all the time. Well I guess I've *kind* of done it, at the top of the shoulder on the blouse I was wearing in this video and the black gingham one shown, it literally comes to a pretty sharp triangle so there's no way to ease it, I have to actually fold it a bit like for a V-neck.
I’ve avoided making armholes that need bias tape. ❤ Yippee! Just subscribed!
Welcome and thanks for subscribing! 😊
I love coming back to rewatch these videos when I need them. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial! I find stay stitching really helps bias bindings behave better as well.
Thank you!
Brilliant! Thank you ❤
Hi. Lucky for me this time I couldn't sleep because I found your channel and this incredible video. I am now subscribed. Thank you so much for the great demonstration so we can all improve our sewing skills. Have a nice day.
Sorry you couldn't sleep but glad it was productive for you and led you to my channel! 😁 Welcome!
So helpful. Can’t wait to see the blue check sew along on doing the yoke and finishing the bodice underarm section with bias tape.
Sorta looks like the New Look 6619 I’m trying to sew-I want a burrito yoke only to be stumped by that little portion of bodice underarm. Pattern calls for bias arm and neck finishings only, but who wants to follow the Big 4 instructions. Note to self-I may be too much of a newbie sewist to try other options, yet😁. Thanks for sharing-the camera work was great (your nails are gorgeous).
Thanks so much! Hm that's a good stumper on the armhole with your New Look pattern. I think I'd burrito it, then apply the bias tape facing around the armhole, treating both layers of the yoke as one. I mean that's how you'd do it for a yoke on say a button down shirt, setting in the sleeves after, so why not this way? Is it The Right Way? No idea, but when never stopped me from trying something. 😜 You could always baste the two layers of yoke together, if the thought of trying to apply bias tape to two layers makes you want to stab your needles into your fingers instead!
@@tashacouldmakethat
I think you solved my dilemma-may try this on a wearable cotton muslin first before I dive into using better fabric. Thanks so much.
Good tutorial!
I've always ironed mine in shape. Will try this for comparison.
Thanks! Either work great, I just tend to go with the pinning and find it easier on closed armholes. Plus I tend to start in on it and then think eh, no reason to unpin and press the curve instead at this point. 😂
THANKYOU
You're very welcome!
Love this! Thank you for sharing, I’ll definitely be using these tips in my next make! ❤
You're so welcome, glad it was hepful!
Nicely done! Thank you ❤
Thank you! 😊
Thanks ❤️🧵
Thanks so much! You are a great teacher. ❤️
Wow, thank you! 🥰
Fabulous! Thanks! ❤
You are so welcome!
This is so helpful!
Glad to hear it, thanks!
So lovely!!!❤
Thank you! 😊
Great tutorial, thanks. I’m dying to know what pattern you,used for that blue blouse! Super cute. I love the retro look but I’m not bold enough for it to be an everyday look for me but I think even I could pull off that blouse for the right occasion.
It's a 1950s pattern, I'll be sewing it up again (the red gingham in this tutorial) in next week's video!
This just changed my life. I think I've been sewing in bias tape incorrectly this whole time. I started off my sewing journey with quilting and then transitioned more to garment-making. I've been applying bias tape to armholes and necklines as if I were applying it to a quilt - I wasn't turning the whole tape to the inside of the garment! I always make my own tape out of the fashion fabric, so it's not like these garments are unwearable or anything, but when you KNOW better, you can DO better! THANK YOU!
You're so welcome! Though I think it's perfectly fine to apply it how you have been, that's just binding the armhole vs. using the bias tape as a facing, and some patterns use that as a design element if that makes you feel better. 😊
Me too! Now I can go back to the project I’m stalled at and finish it properly 😃
In fairness, that is another way to do it, but it's a different look. I've done that intentionally when I wanted contrasting bound armscyes and necklines, but I usually use wider bias strips and the application is a little different.
Fantastic, thank you 💖
Finally, someone who's actually talking and explaining and not playing annoying music. Thanks.
... This is such a basic application of geometry - once it's pointed out!
Thank you!
You're welcome! That's one of the things I love about sewing, learning something and realizing why it makes sense.
Omg! I’m at the armholes and neck facings of a linen top I’m working on right now. I can’t wait to try this this evening. I have always “stretched” the tape a bit at curves and have always been blessed with those darn puckers! The ease makes so much more sense!
Great tip -- I've always stretched my bias tape too, and now I see what you mean about why that makes it worse!
Exactly! I’ll never stretch again. Unless I’m actually supposed to. 🤣
I really love how you say it's okay to clip bias tape! Somehow I have it in my head you can't/shouldn't and I never understood the logic there
YES! I have those moments when I'm thinking "hmm this seems like it would be easier if I just did XYZ thing, why does no one tell me to do that, maybe I shouldn't?
Two projects later where I'm not thrilled with that particular thing still... "Oh forget it, I'm doing it." And then... so much happier I did. 🤣
I never thought I would get so excited about finishing an armhole, but yeah girl, awesome technique.
Thanks! It does feel SO satisfying and exciting when you do it. 😁
I agree
Thank you so much for this. And even it may seem like paint drying. I needed to be watching the slow process. Now if I can somehow be filled with patience haha.
You're welcome! I'm sure you'll summon the patience if you summoned the patience to watch me pin. 😁
I like to prep my bias tape by ironing it into a curve before I apply it to the armhole/neckline/whatever. I find I get a much smoother finish this way.
*Edit to add:* I really should watch the whole video before commenting!
LOL! No worries, my mom actually asked me about the curving in the middle of watching it before she got to that part too. 😂 I tend to go for the pin method the most out of habit but also I find it a bit easier when doing a closed armhole.
No one caught the "two" comment. 😂😂😂
Question question do you have a video on how to expand an arm hole and existing dress? I’m very muscular and massage therapist and have difficulty with the chafing armpit. I feel like other people do as well.
Are you kidding me. So much frustration because everyone says to stretch it, and then it kinda makes sense that when it flops out it look loose ... but you made me see it's not, it's so counterintuitive? Wow, I will fix all my WIPs tonight!
Thanks for this tip. Your Aqua Gingham top is so beautiful. What pattern did you use?
Superb technique video, THANK YOU!!! All these years I couldn't figure out why my bias tape facings were rolling outward. I always felt disappointed and a bit embarrassed with my outcomes. Wow, who knew!!
Hi Tasha,Is there a pattern I could buy for that little blue blouse you have pictured?Thank you for your helpful videos.
@cathymarshall366 Tasha used 'Printed Pattern 9005'...I have not been able to find it anywhere. But I think Butterick 6887 view B looks pretty similar! Let me know if you are able to find her pattern!
@@triciawilkerson2778 Im going to the Joannes store soon and Hobby lobby -so I will search for it at these.Will let you know!
I'll at least be sewing it up on next week's video so you can see more up close how it's assembled and see if any modern pattern might be similar.
OK thanks. I will be on the lookout.@@tashacouldmakethat
I'm a novice but wondering if it would be even better to start pinning from the bottom of the curve up.. Alternating sides with each pin to keep it even?
Oh yeah, you can totally do it however you'd like that makes sense to you! I mostly start at one end so I make sure I have enough to go around the whole armhole. But if you watch other videos of mine you'll see I definitely don't always pin in one direction, I alternate or just do whatever works. lol
This is a very helpful video. Thank you so much. :)
You're very welcome!
Exactly what I needed. Thank you! :)
Can you tell me which pattern you used for the sleeveless top with the yoke over the shoulder. The blue gingham one. It’s quite pretty.
Thanks! It's a vintage 1950s pattern, the same one as the red gingham sample in the tutorial. You can actually watch me sew the entire red gingham top in the same pattern, in this video: ruclips.net/video/I1rGYr47c-4/видео.html
This is exactly how I figured out how to do this way back in the 60s.
I'm also a great fan of pins!
I love Gingham. Thanks for the tutorial.
You’re welcome 😊
Thanks so much for this Tasha✨🙏🏽you’re such an awesome instructor!
Thank you so much! 🥰
Wonderful tutorial, I'm just about to bind a neckline. I really like your personal style, so interesting.
“…it doesn’t have to be gingham…”🤣🤣
Bonus points for watching to the end! 😂
Excellent tips! Thank you!!
Could you use pinking shears instead of clipping? Great video! Thank you
Fantastic teacher
Wouldn’t it have been easier to iron and hand baste, quicker, too? Not meant to offend you, just saying!
I did like the shaping starch method.
I suppose , I’m partial to hand sewing basting because that’s what my mom always did.
BRW, the red gingham fabric is gorgeous ❤.
But the drying paint has fabulous nails! 😁
HA HA thank you!! 😂💅🏼
Thank you, my armhole has never looked better!
I want to use the same method to finish the hem of a button up shirt (I have my reasons!). There's outward facing corners that I cant seem to figure out how to sew and get all the excess folds hidden under the tape when folded over!
And there doesn't seem to be any tutorials out there either! Most of them are doing "mitered corners" for quilting, but the bias tape is sandwiching the edges, so it is visible on both sides. I want the tape not seen on the outside.
If it's something you'd be interested to try solving and sharing your methods, I'd be really grateful.
Regardless, have a great day and thanks again for sharing your technique here.
Wow. Been sewing gaping arm and neck wholes for my whole sewing life. Thank you
sooo perfect! i was searching for a tutorial like just JUST to make a sleeveless top like the one you're wearing! is there a pattern for that? :D
Thanks! It's a vintage 1950s pattern. ☺️
@@tashacouldmakethat way to gatekeep!
@@mndy191 I didn’t know the pattern number off the top of my head when I replied but if you want to accuse me of gatekeeping you can see I wrote an entire blog post about this. I am hardly one to gatekeep information, it’s literally the opposite of my goal and have over a decade of extensive blog posts detailing all sorts of patterns. I just sew enough and keep my clothes long enough over the years I’d never be able to remember everything. Thankfully some things I’ve blogged, which make it easier. 🙂 tashacouldmakethat.com/2017/10/the-blouses-that-almost-were-not/
Thank you. very helpful.
You're welcome!
Thank you. That was wonderful.
I’m learning how to sell and your video made me feel a lot more confident I would like to make dresses from the 50s. I absolutely love this video. You were really light and fun about it and easy and great camera angle. I’m definitely subscribing today and I need more videos like this. I don’t even know what it was. It sounds weird because I don’t really like the name and it very intimidating to hear by tape. I wish she would just call like armpit trim or like you know cause it’s not tape and it’s not sticky and I don’t know what the word bias really means lol I laugh out loud learning. The jargon is also part of learning the process of sewing still haven’t done really well with a pattern yet I’m taking baby steps, I’m gonna make it beautiful fort dress that is elegant
I like to first iron the bias tape into the shape I want, then sew a line of basting stitch to the inside curve and "gather" the bias tape as I apply that way I don't have to use as many pins. Thoghts?
Can I use double fold bias tape to do the same. That's what I accidentally bought and don't want to go back to the store 😳
Wouldn’t it be easier to do a running stitch and slightly gather rather then pins. I have very shaky hands so can’t hold pins
I replied to someone else but it’s really difficult to gather in such a tiny seam allowance but you could try it and see if it works for you. Otherwise the pressing method I show would work since you don’t need to use pins if you don’t want.
Thank you . I will give it a go with a small running stitch then iron in place. I am having to find new ideas rather than give up. This is a brilliant idea to get a neat finish.
Good luck! Creative ways of thinking are great! I don’t sew without pins but many do, I’ve even watched videos on bra making where the instructor sewed without pins on tiny fiddly complicated stuff. 😊
Excellent tutorial, great audio and visuals! I 💜 it all!!! New subby here!
Thanks and welcome!!
Start pinning in the middle, and ease your way out front and back.
Thanks. I don’t like ironing the bias to a curve so this is great and I would never have believed it if I had not seen your easing process. ❤
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped to see it, it really is easy with that little bit of easing.
Thanks for this! Sometimes the hardest thing is getting your brain around how you deal with curves and corners! It usually takes a bit and a few wonky things before a light bulb moment!
This is a great video and I needed help with the bias tape on armholes! Thanks
I started shaping my bias tape over an ironing ham- solved shaping issues
This video earned you another sub.
Thank you!
Why does everyone say to stretch bias binding round the curves??? Even pattern instructions say to. I have NEVER done a nice bias binding and now I finally realize why, thank you so much.
You're so welcome!
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Absolutely brilliant 🥰
Absolutely brilliant 😍
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Yes! The enemy of quality work is rushing! Very good demo.
Thanks! And yes, whenever I'm hurrying I know I'll regret it!
IKR? When I lose patience I must put the project down.
Thank you
5;55
You're welcome!
Makes sense. Tanx!
That is so counter-intuitive , and yet --amazing!
Agree! But sometimes the simplest solutions make things so much better!
This is super off topic, but what is your little stand that you are pinning/ironing on? Looks almost like a bicycle seat with a Lindsey (?) tartan? I work in a very small space and it's perfection and I want one. Does it have a name or is it something you made for yourself?
It's called a tailor's ham, and I have another just like it that's long and more tubular that's called a sleeve roll. Very helpful for pressing curves. The plaid side is in theory for wool and the white for cotton but I pretty much just use the wool side for everything. You can make them too though mine are purchased.
That’s way too many pins. You’re just making more work for yourself putting them in & taking them out.
You're welcome to do it however you'd like, I show how to do it without pins too.
Thanks! This was very helpful.❤
I'm so glad!
If you were to sew it with the bias tape underneath the shirt fabric, and with minimal to no pins, slowly guiding the layers, to keep them aligned, as you go, the feed dogs would do the easing for you. By placing the fabric that needs ease ( in this case the bias tape ) on the top, its effectively working against the desired goal as the feeddogs are attempting to "ease" the shirt fabric.
I don't find that to be the case as I've tried it, it's not enough easing for a steep curve. Generally I prefer to keep the layer that needs easing below ("loose bottom" as I believe I remember learning in an online class from Beverly Johnson 😂) but it's just not enough here for me. Different strokes for different folks.
So timely! I'm about to upcycle my old long sleeve shirt to sleeveless. I will try your technic. Thank you, Tasha!
You’re welcome! Hope it works out well on your refashion. 😊
Oh boy…I’ve been stretching the bias tape 😬 Explains a lot… “ease” is pretty well explained here…or should I say shown. Ease was one of those sewing concepts I had struggled with…thank you Tasha!
You're very welcome! Yes, it's really hard to conceptualize some things in sewing like ease, without seeing!
Would it work if you ran an edge stitch around the tape like you would with a cap sleeve? Seems like that would give you the same result.
You can try it though it might be a lot fussier in such a tiny seam allowance. But whatever way works the best for you to get the same result with that extra ease!
I don't understand how that bit of ease between the pins doesn't get pushed along by the presser foot and create a problem of a lot of excess.
You just have to trust that it doesn't, small amounts of ease work well like that without puckering up. It's much less ease than say, a sleeve cap. You can also sew it with the bias tape down, since technically it's easier to ease a fabric when the larger piece (in this case the bias tape) is against the presser foot, but I personally find it too difficult to know what's happening and don't want to accidentally catch the other folds of the tape in my line of stitching.
BEST VIDEO OUT THERE ON THIS! 🎉
What kind of shears are those iradescent ones? Ive always loved the way they look, but worried they were too pretty to be of good quality
The specific iridescent shears I have are some Tula Pink branded ones I got several years ago, and I'd say their quality is about the same as my Gingher ones!
Thanks! This is soooooo helpful! I also am a big fan of pins!
You're welcome! Go team pins 🙌🏼
A lot of sewing instructions **do** say to stretch the bias and you're right, it doesn't actually make sense. You might need to stretch it along the outside/convex edge, sure, but I don't think I've ever seen that specified. (I figured this out on my own after years of awful-looking armscyes, but I'm so glad someone made a good video of it!)
Isn't it amazing what you end up stumbling on, on your own, when you assume what you've been told to do should work (but it doesn't). 😂
I don’t know why i never realised that! Of course the outside curve is greater than the inside 🤦🏼♀️
Sometimes someone just has to point out the obvious!
You would never have given a second thought to easing that if it had been a facing. But there are too many old wives rules associated with bias tape, like stretching it slightly, to use your example.
That was such a pretty top. Is it a commercial pattern you can share the details of?
That checked binding would have made a fabulous feature on the outside.
Thanks! It's so easy when you think about it, but yeah it's easy to just not! I curse wherever I read to stretch bias tape for throwing me astray originally, lol. But also why I love when people tell you *why* to do something so you know when to ignore that! The pattern of the blue top/red one I'm using as an example is a vintage 50s pattern, I'm sewing it in a future video soon. 😊
When watching the first part of the video, I kept thinking, why isn't she pressing the tape first, to "pre-curve" it?-- and then you did:-). The other thing is that whenever you are working with ease, put a line of basting stitching in thebseam allowance. You can then pull on that ever so slightly, not enough to pucker it, but it can help ease it in.
Sorry if this posts twice, I think it ate my reply. I personally prefer to pin or curve it vs basting as it’s too annoying to me to baste in such a tiny seam allowance and control the fabric that way, plus it’s one more thing to do at that machine. But whatever works to get the job done!
Love this. Don't stretch around the curve, smush in some extra instead!
Yes! Smush don't stretch on those inside curves! 😁
Would making the armhole straight and then pinning the tape to it do the same easing? I understand that easing the tape adds more to the bigger outer edge of where the tape will be when finished. So im wondering if that works too. hmm
You could certainly try it though with such a small seam allowance I’d personally find that more annoying than worth bothering. But any way that eases it in will work if it works for you!
Thank you for this , I’m about to start my first ever tee and found this really helpful - please do more for us beginners 😊
Glad you found it helpful!
This makes so much sense!!😅
Great vid...great thorough instructions. Natural teacher. Much appreciated 💜 💐💜
Thank you so much! 🥰
Very helpful. Thanks!
Good demonstration, thank you. I think I’ll pre-press the bias strip to the shape of the garment curves before sewing and see if that method works best for me.
Thanks! That method works nicely for me with pre-packaged tape in particular, otherwise I tend to use the pinning method more often if I'm making my own and it's being fussy.