That is an excellent idea. Let's take it through design thinking. First thought - you can't have electric wires or pressure switches in peoples mouths. I'm sure there are solutions like maybe some kind of mechanism that transfers the jaw movement to a pressure switch close but not in the mouth. But even better maybe to use AIR pressure created in the mouth. Cheek pressure travels down a tube to a [waterproof] pressure sensor. Or, a sealed rubber tube is bitten down on to increase the internal pressure depending on how hard you're masticating.
If the squishable enclosed tube system had some liquid in it, the pressure change and liquid flow could drive something like a small piston. Which could move a variable resistor. Say a slider type over a rotational pot. Which is what's in a foot control anyway. So no need for the box of brains either.
@@tylerd.9457; It's a legacy thing. CRT TVs used to run a little bit slower than powerline frequency (59.94Hz vs 60Hz) to avoid interference beating. Because of that (yes, really, we can't even get something as simple as a specific frame rate in 2018 because of lazy engineering of 100 years ago) the video plays at 59.94/60 = 0.999x the speed of the original recording, hence adding about 1.5 seconds of playtime to this video. It is also the reason why everything sounds lower pitched than on the PC (even when using the same headphones), because the audio playback gets distorted by the same amount as well (in the old days they used the mains frequency as the single clock to run everything in TV off of. This also directly led to every show/video/movie which was recorded in NTSC, sounding like it's being played through a worn-out record player with a low battery on all PAL TVs).
WOW - a new video from This Old Tony! As always, I dropped everything to watch it from start to finish. I can count on your videos to be hilarious, and full of unexpected learning opportunities!
I ❤️ all of your videos and content TOT! You make my life so much happier, even after watching loads of your videos countless times because it just makes me feel better about my life. I really want to get into fabricating and machining (as a hobby) but I need 2 things for that to happen, funds and space. I used to have a single car garage (which you might get a fiat 500 or a mini), but now I only possess a 8"x6" wooden (cheap and nasty) shed. Which I can't even move in because there's stuff screwed and fixed to every single surface. So, for me being able to build a shed. It needs to be less that half the size of my 39.755mm3 garden (for reasons). So getting a mill, lathe, work benches and a metal work bench for metal fab n it also needs to be made out of wood (for reasons).The joys of new build houses in England, where everything's on a postage stamp 😪 🤦🏻♂️ It's pretty crap tbh 😕 Going from being a sparking, talking home over £30k a year. Then waking up after having a motorbike accident, which left me with my left leg up to my groin suffering from a brain injury n having to deal with agonising crippling pain & phantom pain because my hip is so badly mangled I can't wear a leg and need a special operations which the NHS aren't doing atm ☹️ The only work I can do now is bench work, which I've come to found out is as rare as rocking horse 💩 It's also given me quite bad depression and anxiety. Which doesn't help when no one can properly help with my year in year out pains. And the same goes for walking and PTSD 😐 Everyone who rides a bike on the road knows the consequence, as I've had a few close in counters in the past as I was riding on and off for around 10yrs. Something I've learned over the years is that it's not worth it, even though I'm a biker till I die try of people. I would still love to ride again but as you could imagine, my family isn't very keen on the idea 😳 Anyway!! 😪 Watching this again and I forgot to say first time, but with the drill. Why don't you just trim off that excess bit if plastic which overhangs and does absolutely nothing apart from getting in the way of you using the chucks you've always wanted? You could set it up in the mill or lathe to get a nice professional, or belt sander. Either that or you could just cut little bits of (similar to whittling a stick/bit of wood) at a time like a beaver? I'm sorry Tony for venting on one of your videos. Like most people, there's a lot more to my story which has made my life even worse than it already it 😪😞 FML
My grandfather was a brick layer. But his passion was metal work. He knew alil about alot of different things. U remind of him. He's the reason why i got into working metal. I was fascinated about welding. He had me using a soldering iron. Then spot welding first. Lol. First gas. Then stick. Mig and eventually i learned to tig. Messing with metal for 40+
Thanks, Tony. You fill a gap (not in the wrong way) in my graduation. I'm a mechanical engineer and I lack a whole lot of shop experience. Your videos help me get more of that 'practical feeling'. Great video, as always.
If You consider making something like the TIG button DIY, look for FSR force sensing resistors. They are available in different sizes and shapes. Glue it to a solid backing and put a drop of silicone or smilar on top of the sensor and You have a simple force sensing button. I have used these many times in similar applications with good results. Made a bite force to drill rpm controller for a disabled dentist using these many years ago.
Anyone else think that ToT sounds like Alan Alda? I swear, ToT could just be reading the dictionary, no picture, just a black screen, and I'd still enjoy his videos because of how awesome his voice is. Guess we're all just lucky that he actually has great content too!
If you tighten the chuck all the way, then turn it gently the other way, you will hear it "click"... this little trick has saved my relationship with my Milwaukee drill.
"I've never seen a 1/2' drill with a 1/4" hex drive on the backside" [runs out to the garage and starts cutting / welding 1/2" drills and 1/4" hex drives while muttering "I'll show you"]
@thisoldtony From a machinists standpoint which would be better 1) taking 1/4" hex drives and welding them onto 1/2" bits or 2) grinding the back of 1/2" bits into 1/4" hex drives? Asking for a friend
Cole Everman you would be better to modify the existing shank of the drill rather then welding a 1/4 hex drive onto it. However you wouldn't need to grind it. Drill shanks aren't as hard as the flutes of the drill and are very machinable.
Milwaukee, Ryobi, DeWalt....all have 1/2" drills for 1/4" hex shanks. The packaged sets have even advertise that fact. Harbor Freight even sells them. If you haven't seen them, you haven't been looking.
@@coleeverman672 Better question, why the hell aren't drill bits hex to begin with? is some mad man out there still using a collet to mount their drill bits?
So glad to hear somebody else is having issues with Milwaukee chucks. I have several of them and they tear my bits up too. Just went to the Milwaukee dealer in my area and discussed the problem with them. They claim not to have heard about this issue before. They ordered me some new chucks for my old drills and sold me a couple of new drills with hopefully newly engineered chucks. They were thinking maybe the new drill chucks wouldn’t have the problem anymore. Unfortunately the new ones have the exact same issue. Very frustrating!
This Old Tony you have helped me in my school im studying in finland and i know more than anyone there and im in my first year the teachers are suprised i love this chanel keep doing this good stuff
Aluminium versus aluminum 😁 Following up a Topical Words piece on the international spelling of what British English writes as sulphur, many American subscribers wrote in to ask about another element with two spellings: aluminium. The metal was named by the English chemist Sir Humphry Davy (who, you may recall, “abominated gravy, and lived in the odium of having discovered sodium”), even though he was unable to isolate it: that took another two decades’ work by others. He derived the name from the mineral called alumina, which itself had only been named in English by the chemist Joseph Black in 1790. Black took it from the French, who had based it on alum, a white mineral that had been used since ancient times for dyeing and tanning, among other things. Chemically, this is potassium aluminium sulphate (a name which gives me two further opportunities to parade my British spellings of chemical names). Sir Humphry made a bit of a mess of naming this new element, at first spelling it alumium (this was in 1807) then changing it to aluminum, and finally settling on aluminium in 1812. His classically educated scientific colleagues preferred aluminiumright from the start, because it had more of a classical ring, and chimed harmoniously with many other elements whose names ended in -ium, like potassium, sodium, and magnesium, all of which had been named by Davy. The spelling in -um continued in occasional use in Britain for a while, though that in -ium soon predominated. In the USA, the position was more complicated. Noah Webster’s Dictionary of 1828 has only aluminum, though the standard spelling among US chemists throughout most of the nineteenth century was aluminium; it was the preferred version in The Century Dictionary of 1889 and is the only spelling given in the Webster Unabridged Dictionaryof 1913. Searches in an archive of American newspapers show a most interesting shift. Up to the 1890s, both spellings appear in rough parity, though with the -ium version slightly the more common, but after about 1895 that reverses quite substantially, with the decade starting in 1900 having the -umspelling about twice as common as the alternative; in the following decade the -iumspelling crashes to a few hundred compared to half a million examples of -um. Actually, neither version was often encountered early on: up to about 1855 it had only ever been made in pinhead quantities because it was so hard to extract from its ores; a new French process that involved liquid sodium improved on that to the extent that Emperor Napoleon III had some aluminium cutlery made for state banquets, but it still cost much more than gold. When the statue of Eros in Piccadilly Circus in London was cast from aluminium in 1893 it was still an exotic and expensive choice. This changed only when a way of extracting the metal using cheap hydroelectricity was developed. It’s clear that the shift in the USA from -iumto -um took place progressively over a period starting in about 1895, when the metal began to be widely available and the word started to be needed in popular writing. It is easy to imagine journalists turning for confirmation to Webster’s Dictionary, still the most influential work at that time, and adopting its spelling. The official change in the US to the -um spelling happened quite late: the American Chemical Society only adopted it in 1925, though this was clearly in response to the popular shift that had already taken place. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) officially standardised on aluminium in 1990, though this has done nothing, of course, to change the way people in the US spell it for day to day purposes. It’s a word that demonstrates the often tangled and subtle nature of word history, and how a simple statement about differences in spelling can cover a complicated story. www.worldwidewords.org/articles/aluminium.htm
I went to a tool repairer with the same issue.He said the best he had was a metabo chuck. He installed it in just a few minutes.. Best thing I ever did.
I agree 100% with everything you said about the Milwaukee Drill. Even the new "Fuel" one, which I also own, has all the same problems.... Love your stuff!!
Have you thought about doing "live" tooling for the 4th axis? I would love to see that in action! Since you prefer more Minnesota in your TIG wire, do you use Arkansas gas shielding and Colorado drill bits, particularly on high Missouri alloys?
Someone famous once said "I have a dream........of a time that Bad Obsession,the Skid Factory and This Old Tony will do a joint project (whilst AvE bangs on the window shouting cannuckdian obscenities).With a cameo from Abom79." Probably....I dunno.My memory is appalling.
@@olik136 Deleting your browsing history won't save you now.Unmarked small denomination notes, in a brown envelope ,deposited behind the post box on the corner.
Super useful info re the chucks. I had pathetically struggled with a chuck on a cordless drill and was too ignorant & stupid to realise the attachment screw was a left hand thread. Lefty tighty & it was back to new condition. Thank you for educating me.
Tot, a suggestion, 4:20 the bosch chuck. Pop a 10mm rod into chuck, mount rod into lathe, remove plastic area stopping the fit you need.........keep up the great work brother.
I did this once on my pillar drill. Needless to say I found a new way of launching satellites... or keys at any rate. Into low earth orbit through my shed wall ;). Seriously though I’m lucky that thing shot out backwards. It made a heck of a dent in my chipboard wall.
I like to leave keyed chucks loose enough to use as a keyless one. The down side is that my life insurance is about $300 a week. Worth it to save $100 on an import keyless chuck.
I have a few oversized bits, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 with the hex drive custom welded onto the backside. I primarily used them to ream holes slightly larger. I made them out of necessity to fit the impact driver I had at work. We had 1/2 inch corded drills, and 3/4 inch drill presses, but you couldn't find chuck keys for the former, and the work didn't always fit in the latter. One easy trick to keep your bits from spinning in the chuck is to grind three small lands into the bit for the chuck to bite onto. I needed to do this for my corded home drill with the keyless chuck. Same problem, couldn't apply enough force to clamp the bit.
Hey tony, really interesting video as usual! Ignore the fact that I posted this after 3 minutes of you uploading a 24 minute video. Really loved 10:21!
justkiddin1980 I know. I’m just a DeWalt fanboy. Not an elitist though because I acknowledge Makita make some really awsome tools and sometimes better then team yellow. But. The reverse is also often true.
Yeah didn't know it was a reverse thread when I changed my drill chuck the first time... Lefty loosy was not going so well until I thought: maybe it's a reverse thread. Wish I'd watched this video first :) Great video as always Tony!
Me too. I had a small impact driver wailing on an air drill Chuck getting nowhere. Never occurred to me it might be reverse threaded. Watched this video, smacked my forehead, and had it apart in seconds.
It would be nice if you could add some real-time cutting footage in your videos; just for the viewers too get a better feeling of your speeds, feeds, cutting-sound and so on. Otherwise great video(s) as always ☺️.
I have a Bosch hammer drill that I had to re-tighten the chuck every minute or so while using it (it'd seen lots of use). I used your method to remove the old chuck and looked through my stash of over 20 chucks, where I found the perfect replacement. Thanks for the idea to replace the chuck.
With regard to the saws, it's worth remembering that cold saws (also known as Brobo saws over here, the type that run around 50rpm with HSS blades and coolant) are running 350+mm blades (14 inch) with smoothbores, no problems at all. I've had to remind myself of that before too, lol... Also, you can get the coldsaw blades resharpened surprisingly cheaply (especially compared to replacement cost!), and I imagine those cutters would be the same, if you ever need it. If you're not already using it all the time, those CK wedge collets are absolutely awesome in my book. I had a few of the traditional style get deformed in various ways (usually heat, but also overtightening), and either death grip the tungsten or fail to grip it. My watercooled CK torch came with a small assortment of those wedge collets, one of each size from memory. I'm still using the same 3/32 wedge collet 6 years later, and it still works perfect, despite having been run outside the ideal amperage range on a number of occasions among other punishments.... Grips with a minimum of torque required, releases instantly.
Milwaukee makes those hex bits up to 5/8" with the 1/4" hex. The titanium nitride set you buy comes with sizes up to 1/2". They designed them for their impact driver, but I don't find them to be that great. I've broken several drilling into mild steel and 316L stainless. Good for about 3 cuts, then they dull and snap. I've also bent the shank on a couple.
I had a number of those Lexium drives I picked up and you inspired me to do something with them and after some software programming and a few episodes of technical dyslexia I am REALLY impressed...I have been setting very minute backless settings and a few other things and getting tenths repeatability...pretty impressive little drives!
@@ThisOldTony Wranglerstar! The crazy guy who hates everything except what he likes! The "homesteader" guy! he just hates on lots of tools, and one of his most famous videos that got lots of views was one where he let two drills "battle it out" by securing a rod between the two chucks, and running them against each other. The thumbnail was rather striking, which is likely why so many people watched it. Ironically, I never watched that video. Some of his older vids were good, but his channel has become very clickbait-y and unpleasant. He's a very "this tool doesnt work when I use it for something which it's not intended so it is TERRIBLE DON'T BUY IT, its unfortunate.its
Ben Sullivan I swear I’ve seen that. Dewalt vs something iirc. Dewalt immediately overpowered the other drill and its anti reverse lock kicked in. The dewalt then burnt out trying to turn a locked barrel. He declared it junk and the loser the winner. Am I on track?
+1 for the gripping power of those older Bosch chucks.They also grab well on the mount side, I have one with the mounting screw removed just waiting for the chuck to fall off so I can use it on another drill.
Tony, I have that same drill. I think u got a faulty chuck. Mines fine. It doesn’t chew bits or come loose even if I’ve got a stirrer in it for mixing grout or paint. Take it back and get a new drill. Wow, 27 dislikes so far. Ok people, fetch your pitchforks and flaming torches, we got some dissension in the camp.
Hey Old Tony, I´m now watching your videos since over a year, I have nearly no tools nor a workshop. Still your content is always interesting to me (I´m a chemistry student). And even if I have no clue what you´re talking about, its´s always good for a laugh! Keep up the good work and the mix between making fun and teaching stuff.
legit have no idea with what your talking about with half of this stuff given im not a machinist but defiantly interesting to watch and you explain everything in pretty good detail!
Always a top video... I started using m42 blades on my band-saws and they've lasted at least twice as long . I've also been able to run them faster than before on a wider range of materials.
1:00 Funny how we (in Germany) always loved and used Milwaukee drills in the shop, and when one very old ones of them finally broke, we got a German-made drill as a replacement. It was fine, but we found ourselves only rarely using it. Whereas you seem to have loved the Bosch more xD
A Bronx cheer for your coverage of Milwaukee tool chucks. Mine works just fine. Gonna send out my boys, they'll put your left knee in your table vice, then they will take your right arm and put it in your lathe. Of course, they will true the right arm up to 0.002 before proceeding, but by then you will have gotten the idea that maybe you should keep silent on certain things. You understand, right, Tony? Answer me Tony! Love your videos.
Little known instructions Here’s a step by step breakdown of how to do it tighten a keyless chuck on a Milwaukee may work on others as well 1. Insert the drill bit into the drill chuck. 2. Tighten the drill chuck only by hand until it clicks several times. 3. Rotate the chuck back the opposite way, until you hear and feel one, single click. 4. Once you hear and feel the last click, the drill bit is locked securely into place. Of course you need to know this before you jack up the chuck. Love the show
I've got the hammerdrill version of the small Milwaukee drill. It cost more, but I have put mine through hell. I love it. Don't have the chuck shredding bits, and I have used a 1/2" bit without slipping. I mostly rip up the operational side of bits before anything. Marble, steel, wood, aluminum, tiles. I've drilled it. Fits nicely in my tool bag too.
100% agree. We had these drill manufacturing scoreboards and anything over 3/8 forget about it. High pitch screech and fresh burrs on the shank. The Fuels are much better.
Your videos are great, better than what comes from TV nowadays. Sometimes I fall asleep while watching these. 👉🏻 I'm not saying these are boring, it's just your voice :D
Any bit over and including a 3/16" diameter needs 3 flats for the chuck to hold on to. I absolutely love them. I use Milwaukee at work and they absolutely outperform DeWalt, not sure about Bosch as I have never used that brand.
Happy morning waking up to one of your vids👍I use the same drill for my job but with 18volt (wrists of steel here lol) the chucks are useless, I’ve used double ended 1/8” drill bits before and had to pull them out of the screw in end of chuck after the chuck had come loose while drilling. Battery also jiggles a bit to and it flogs out the contact pins on drill and battery meaning you need to use two hands, one for drill and one to hold battery 4 of my tools have done it. My old freaky was like your bosh and still going strong 13years later can’t kill em.
Hi Tony, Normally you drive slitting saws without keys, so if they dig in, they slip and so, don't shatter and fly across the shop. Just turn up some spacer rings of different thicknesses to clamp it to your arbor.
I'm sure you know, but for those who don't. If the saw does stop rotating for whatever reason, the spindle will continue to rotate tightening the arbour nut or bolt (possibly scoring and welding against the arbour. Then the saw will start turning again due to the extra nut tightness but with the high possibility that the saw will then break due to the new excessive depth of cut (machine table will continue feeding whilst the saw had stopped rotating). It may be very difficult to subsequently remove the nut due to the auto tightening.
I can recommend the Makita DHP481, I've had it for some time now and at least the chuck is a quality Japanese made chuck. As for de-arming power, it does about 115Nm which is enough that it punched a tooth through my cheek at some point (awkward position, had to drill under a table, wasn't paying attention...). I should note that I don't do that much metal work, but I've even had 1 meter long concrete drills in it without any issues.
I have an older Milwaukee drill and I put new cells in the battery pack and it's just like new now, and whatever kind of chuck they used back then holds everything really well, except for tiny bits. So I got a 3/8" Jacobs chuck with a 1/2" shank on it so I just chuck that chuck in it when I need to drill tiny holes.
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4680th! :) but who cares, I am here for Tony!
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Mount the tig button in a mouth guard, bite force amp control 😁
Makes sense, these sort of highly dexterous tasks always require precise mouth positioning anyway. May as well make some extra use of it!
Don't laugh - I've done that. Just don't chew gum at the same time unless you want pulse.
That is an excellent idea. Let's take it through design thinking. First thought - you can't have electric wires or pressure switches in peoples mouths. I'm sure there are solutions like maybe some kind of mechanism that transfers the jaw movement to a pressure switch close but not in the mouth. But even better maybe to use AIR pressure created in the mouth. Cheek pressure travels down a tube to a [waterproof] pressure sensor. Or, a sealed rubber tube is bitten down on to increase the internal pressure depending on how hard you're masticating.
If the squishable enclosed tube system had some liquid in it, the pressure change and liquid flow could drive something like a small piston. Which could move a variable resistor. Say a slider type over a rotational pot. Which is what's in a foot control anyway. So no need for the box of brains either.
It'll never work. I always have my tongue sticking out the side when I'm concentrating.
when you mentioned the safety concerns I moved my computer about 20 feet away and watched with binoculars. Safety first
you're brave, I watched from behind a wall with a set of two mirrors!
Tinted safety binoculars I hope. Reversed binoculars will reduce the risk.
no I didn't OK Safety second@@TheAmpair
@@jaydaniels8698 😉
naaah i just watched it on a 1982 green monochrome crt. The damage wouldn't be detailed enough to cause any concern.
It's too bad you don't have a lathe... you could have made a spacer to mount the bosch chuck.
Nicolas Audouard or turned that part of the chuck doen
@@micahwinters7021 My thought too. Turn a step onto that chuck, Chuck! err Tony.
Would turning down the chuck void the warranty?
and here I was figuring out how to mount the drill body in the lathe...
@@redgrittybrick I can't tell if you're joking.
Wow, 24 minutes and 11 seconds. Seamlessly nailed it.
Tony is a prophet.
..and im seeing 24 minutes and 12 seconds!
@@MaximusPsychosis Weird, on my computer it said 24 minutes 11 seconds. On my phone it says 24 minutes 13 seconds. Probably a RUclips thing.
@@tylerd.9457 yeah, it is a youtube thing, depending on what you're viewing it on.. im on chromium if that gives you anything to run by..
@@tylerd.9457; It's a legacy thing. CRT TVs used to run a little bit slower than powerline frequency (59.94Hz vs 60Hz) to avoid interference beating.
Because of that (yes, really, we can't even get something as simple as a specific frame rate in 2018 because of lazy engineering of 100 years ago) the video plays at 59.94/60 = 0.999x the speed of the original recording, hence adding about 1.5 seconds of playtime to this video.
It is also the reason why everything sounds lower pitched than on the PC (even when using the same headphones), because the audio playback gets distorted by the same amount as well (in the old days they used the mains frequency as the single clock to run everything in TV off of. This also directly led to every show/video/movie which was recorded in NTSC, sounding like it's being played through a worn-out record player with a low battery on all PAL TVs).
Hey TONY! Mount the TIG button in your shoe! It's a life changer :)
Make an RF Finger control for the tig amp adjustment ;)
Mekhanic1 hahahaha
He should just hook it up to his cybernetic implants.
WOW - a new video from This Old Tony! As always, I dropped everything to watch it from start to finish. I can count on your videos to be hilarious, and full of unexpected learning opportunities!
"As always, I dropped everything to watch it" I know right? Only problem is my newborn always gets a fit when I do that, no idea why tho
As I live and breathe, its Ron Covell.
@@dasstackenblochen9250 I did nearly the same thing! I'm pretty sure my sister will never talk to me again though...
What do you mean "thanks for watching", no, THANK YOU for sharing your content Tony ;)
Teachers pet!! ;)
TOT, you deserve a Major Award, even if you have to make one for yourself.
I ❤️ all of your videos and content TOT!
You make my life so much happier, even after watching loads of your videos countless times because it just makes me feel better about my life. I really want to get into fabricating and machining (as a hobby) but I need 2 things for that to happen, funds and space. I used to have a single car garage (which you might get a fiat 500 or a mini), but now I only possess a 8"x6" wooden (cheap and nasty) shed. Which I can't even move in because there's stuff screwed and fixed to every single surface.
So, for me being able to build a shed. It needs to be less that half the size of my 39.755mm3 garden (for reasons). So getting a mill, lathe, work benches and a metal work bench for metal fab n it also needs to be made out of wood (for reasons).The joys of new build houses in England, where everything's on a postage stamp 😪 🤦🏻♂️ It's pretty crap tbh 😕
Going from being a sparking, talking home over £30k a year. Then waking up after having a motorbike accident, which left me with my left leg up to my groin suffering from a brain injury n having to deal with agonising crippling pain & phantom pain because my hip is so badly mangled I can't wear a leg and need a special operations which the NHS aren't doing atm ☹️ The only work I can do now is bench work, which I've come to found out is as rare as rocking horse 💩
It's also given me quite bad depression and anxiety. Which doesn't help when no one can properly help with my year in year out pains. And the same goes for walking and PTSD 😐
Everyone who rides a bike on the road knows the consequence, as I've had a few close in counters in the past as I was riding on and off for around 10yrs.
Something I've learned over the years is that it's not worth it, even though I'm a biker till I die try of people. I would still love to ride again but as you could imagine, my family isn't very keen on the idea 😳
Anyway!! 😪
Watching this again and I forgot to say first time, but with the drill. Why don't you just trim off that excess bit if plastic which overhangs and does absolutely nothing apart from getting in the way of you using the chucks you've always wanted?
You could set it up in the mill or lathe to get a nice professional, or belt sander. Either that or you could just cut little bits of (similar to whittling a stick/bit of wood) at a time like a beaver?
I'm sorry Tony for venting on one of your videos. Like most people, there's a lot more to my story which has made my life even worse than it already it 😪😞
FML
My grandfather was a brick layer. But his passion was metal work. He knew alil about alot of different things. U remind of him. He's the reason why i got into working metal. I was fascinated about welding. He had me using a soldering iron. Then spot welding first. Lol. First gas. Then stick. Mig and eventually i learned to tig. Messing with metal for 40+
Thanks, Tony. You fill a gap (not in the wrong way) in my graduation. I'm a mechanical engineer and I lack a whole lot of shop experience. Your videos help me get more of that 'practical feeling'. Great video, as always.
Love your subtle humor besides your craftsmanship, enjoy your vids immensely.
If You consider making something like the TIG button DIY, look for FSR force sensing resistors. They are available in different sizes and shapes. Glue it to a solid backing and put a drop of silicone or smilar on top of the sensor and You have a simple force sensing button. I have used these many times in similar applications with good results. Made a bite force to drill rpm controller for a disabled dentist using these many years ago.
Anyone else think that ToT sounds like Alan Alda? I swear, ToT could just be reading the dictionary, no picture, just a black screen, and I'd still enjoy his videos because of how awesome his voice is. Guess we're all just lucky that he actually has great content too!
Only a matter of time.... vimeo.com/121098214
And yes I understand the irony of posting a Vimeo clip on RUclips
Nope, but I do love listening to Tony. ToT and AvE could go on tour together. :-D
I bet Tony would sound like Alan if he was born and raised in New York City.
Now I can only hear Alan Alda : ))
12 seconds
i appreciate the extra second of Tony
I got 24:13 is RUclips drunk again?
24:12 is what I got.
Yep I got 24:13
24:12 for me.
Probably due to metric conversion
If you tighten the chuck all the way, then turn it gently the other way, you will hear it "click"... this little trick has saved my relationship with my Milwaukee drill.
"I've never seen a 1/2' drill with a 1/4" hex drive on the backside"
[runs out to the garage and starts cutting / welding 1/2" drills and 1/4" hex drives while muttering "I'll show you"]
@thisoldtony
From a machinists standpoint which would be better 1) taking 1/4" hex drives and welding them onto 1/2" bits or 2) grinding the back of 1/2" bits into 1/4" hex drives?
Asking for a friend
@@coleeverman672 I think drilling and threading would be better. Then you can remove the 1/4" hex any time 😉😁
Cole Everman you would be better to modify the existing shank of the drill rather then welding a 1/4 hex drive onto it. However you wouldn't need to grind it. Drill shanks aren't as hard as the flutes of the drill and are very machinable.
Milwaukee, Ryobi, DeWalt....all have 1/2" drills for 1/4" hex shanks. The packaged sets have even advertise that fact. Harbor Freight even sells them. If you haven't seen them, you haven't been looking.
@@coleeverman672 Better question, why the hell aren't drill bits hex to begin with? is some mad man out there still using a collet to mount their drill bits?
So glad to hear somebody else is having issues with Milwaukee chucks. I have several of them and they tear my bits up too. Just went to the Milwaukee dealer in my area and discussed the problem with them. They claim not to have heard about this issue before. They ordered me some new chucks for my old drills and sold me a couple of new drills with hopefully newly engineered chucks. They were thinking maybe the new drill chucks wouldn’t have the problem anymore. Unfortunately the new ones have the exact same issue. Very frustrating!
This Old Tony you have helped me in my school im studying in finland and i know more than anyone there and im in my first year the teachers are suprised i love this chanel keep doing this good stuff
Watching a man named Tony talk about his poop shooting shenanigans. What a time to be alive
Hands that belong to a man named Tony*
Aluminium versus aluminum 😁
Following up a Topical Words piece on the international spelling of what British English writes as sulphur, many American subscribers wrote in to ask about another element with two spellings: aluminium.
The metal was named by the English chemist Sir Humphry Davy (who, you may recall, “abominated gravy, and lived in the odium of having discovered sodium”), even though he was unable to isolate it: that took another two decades’ work by others. He derived the name from the mineral called alumina, which itself had only been named in English by the chemist Joseph Black in 1790. Black took it from the French, who had based it on alum, a white mineral that had been used since ancient times for dyeing and tanning, among other things. Chemically, this is potassium aluminium sulphate (a name which gives me two further opportunities to parade my British spellings of chemical names).
Sir Humphry made a bit of a mess of naming this new element, at first spelling it alumium (this was in 1807) then changing it to aluminum, and finally settling on aluminium in 1812. His classically educated scientific colleagues preferred aluminiumright from the start, because it had more of a classical ring, and chimed harmoniously with many other elements whose names ended in -ium, like potassium, sodium, and magnesium, all of which had been named by Davy.
The spelling in -um continued in occasional use in Britain for a while, though that in -ium soon predominated. In the USA, the position was more complicated. Noah Webster’s Dictionary of 1828 has only aluminum, though the standard spelling among US chemists throughout most of the nineteenth century was aluminium; it was the preferred version in The Century Dictionary of 1889 and is the only spelling given in the Webster Unabridged Dictionaryof 1913. Searches in an archive of American newspapers show a most interesting shift. Up to the 1890s, both spellings appear in rough parity, though with the -ium version slightly the more common, but after about 1895 that reverses quite substantially, with the decade starting in 1900 having the -umspelling about twice as common as the alternative; in the following decade the -iumspelling crashes to a few hundred compared to half a million examples of -um.
Actually, neither version was often encountered early on: up to about 1855 it had only ever been made in pinhead quantities because it was so hard to extract from its ores; a new French process that involved liquid sodium improved on that to the extent that Emperor Napoleon III had some aluminium cutlery made for state banquets, but it still cost much more than gold. When the statue of Eros in Piccadilly Circus in London was cast from aluminium in 1893 it was still an exotic and expensive choice. This changed only when a way of extracting the metal using cheap hydroelectricity was developed.
It’s clear that the shift in the USA from -iumto -um took place progressively over a period starting in about 1895, when the metal began to be widely available and the word started to be needed in popular writing. It is easy to imagine journalists turning for confirmation to Webster’s Dictionary, still the most influential work at that time, and adopting its spelling. The official change in the US to the -um spelling happened quite late: the American Chemical Society only adopted it in 1925, though this was clearly in response to the popular shift that had already taken place. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) officially standardised on aluminium in 1990, though this has done nothing, of course, to change the way people in the US spell it for day to day purposes.
It’s a word that demonstrates the often tangled and subtle nature of word history, and how a simple statement about differences in spelling can cover a complicated story.
www.worldwidewords.org/articles/aluminium.htm
Doesn't explain why the US says sodering and carmel.
Sodering always makes me want to leave the workshop with my back to the wall: Oh and not to drop the soap
Haha, Gold Neil.
@@ozdatman and Keith Fenner does wolding
I went to a tool repairer with the same issue.He said the best he had was a metabo chuck. He installed it in just a few minutes.. Best thing I ever did.
Now that we’ve seen your collection, This Old Tony, your new nickname is Chuck.
I agree 100% with everything you said about the Milwaukee Drill. Even the new "Fuel" one, which I also own, has all the same problems.... Love your stuff!!
Have you thought about doing "live" tooling for the 4th axis? I would love to see that in action!
Since you prefer more Minnesota in your TIG wire, do you use Arkansas gas shielding and Colorado drill bits, particularly on high Missouri alloys?
+1 for the leg lamp. It's a major award!!
BO's project BINKY, Skid Factory and TOT videos all released in a 24hr period! Gotta love the holiday season.
Someone famous once said "I have a dream........of a time that Bad Obsession,the Skid Factory and This Old Tony will do a joint project (whilst AvE bangs on the window shouting cannuckdian obscenities).With a cameo from Abom79."
Probably....I dunno.My memory is appalling.
how can you see my subscriptions Mr. Hackerman? :)
@@olik136 Deleting your browsing history won't save you now.Unmarked small denomination notes, in a brown envelope ,deposited behind the post box on the corner.
That flexishaft is epic.
And a mighty car mods video
Super useful info re the chucks. I had pathetically struggled with a chuck on a cordless drill and was too ignorant & stupid to realise the attachment screw was a left hand thread. Lefty tighty & it was back to new condition. Thank you for educating me.
11:54 - is... this... a.... comic sans?! it is rare nowadays, that manufacturer use kids-friendly fonts.
they even made the wires all colourful for the burly tig welding children
Thanks for the video... it's always a little bit of childhood Christmas morning when I get a notification for one of your videos.
Am I dreaming..??.wake up to a TOT video. This is going to be a good day.
Yes! A new ToT vid! Gotta wait till bedtime to watch it so I keep the tradition of watching with no pants on.
Enjoyed Tony, but you said you were going to braze with Silicone and I didn't see a single tube of Dow Corning or GE anywhere?
ATB, Robin
He also used 'verse' when he meant 'versus'. Tsk, tsk...
I've seen verse and I've seen better!
@@burkettc
Actually, it's "sili con carne"
Tot, a suggestion, 4:20 the bosch chuck. Pop a 10mm rod into chuck, mount rod into lathe, remove plastic area stopping the fit you need.........keep up the great work brother.
Remember not to leave the Key Chuck in your new drill chuck.
The key may fly away and never come back.
I did this once on my pillar drill. Needless to say I found a new way of launching satellites... or keys at any rate. Into low earth orbit through my shed wall ;). Seriously though I’m lucky that thing shot out backwards. It made a heck of a dent in my chipboard wall.
Just tape the key to the battery, like putting it at the plug end of the cord.
Bonus points for getting in a quote from the greatest “Christmas Movie” of all time. Loved the poop.
Is that... Comic Sans font on the tig button controller box!?!
Oh Shi~~
I forgot to add that to the cons list!
Yes.
Good job Tony, i really like how you manage both imperial and metric and not making a big thing about it.
You just mention both and thats that.
Rohm Chuck: Could you stick it in the lathe and turn down the plastic enough that it clears the drill housing?
That was what I thought we were going to see.
Chuck the chuck
So would that be opposite of upchucking? Down chucking!
Naw, mount the drill up in an end mill and take off the circle ridge so any chuck would fit.
@@timvatter2559
Could this be the perfect title for Tony's brown chicken brown cow video?
Always a pleasure to see a long video from you Tony
I like to leave keyed chucks loose enough to use as a keyless one. The down side is that my life insurance is about $300 a week. Worth it to save $100 on an import keyless chuck.
Love STP. Always look forward to something new from TOT. Thumbs up!
Ohh the good old Bosch subscribe professional. They don't build them anymore, do they? I can't find them anywhere.
fast reading! :) I had to go back and freeze frame!
@@2lefThumbs me to but don't tell anybody
Argh! I missed it 😖.
Every time I see the SNTP title, my day is brightened, always love it!
I regret that I have but one like to give to this video.
I'll second that!
I have a few oversized bits, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 with the hex drive custom welded onto the backside. I primarily used them to ream holes slightly larger. I made them out of necessity to fit the impact driver I had at work. We had 1/2 inch corded drills, and 3/4 inch drill presses, but you couldn't find chuck keys for the former, and the work didn't always fit in the latter. One easy trick to keep your bits from spinning in the chuck is to grind three small lands into the bit for the chuck to bite onto. I needed to do this for my corded home drill with the keyless chuck. Same problem, couldn't apply enough force to clamp the bit.
Hey tony, really interesting video as usual! Ignore the fact that I posted this after 3 minutes of you uploading a 24 minute video. Really loved 10:21!
Keyed chucks are the bomb. Just make sure you use all 3 holes for tightening. Boom!
MAKITA MAKITA MAKITA....they have the bestest chucks
😂
Only bested by DeWalt! And they don’t have anti theft blue colours built in sadly.
@@colinantink9094 nope...just check the review AvE did on the chucks of both...makita clearly had less run out...but both should do nicely for the job
justkiddin1980 I know. I’m just a DeWalt fanboy. Not an elitist though because I acknowledge Makita make some really awsome tools and sometimes better then team yellow. But. The reverse is also often true.
Yeah didn't know it was a reverse thread when I changed my drill chuck the first time... Lefty loosy was not going so well until I thought: maybe it's a reverse thread. Wish I'd watched this video first :) Great video as always Tony!
Me too. I had a small impact driver wailing on an air drill Chuck getting nowhere. Never occurred to me it might be reverse threaded. Watched this video, smacked my forehead, and had it apart in seconds.
Is that comic sans on the brain box for the Tig button?
Literally unplayable
Good shooting of the poop Tony really enjoy thanks for the time you put into your videos
It would be nice if you could add some real-time cutting footage in your videos; just for the viewers too get a better feeling of your speeds, feeds, cutting-sound and so on. Otherwise great video(s) as always ☺️.
Former Röhm Employee here. Yep theyre still great :) Greetings from Sontheim / Germany
When in doubt, call AvE.
AvE can have end credits for focus puller and best boy.
I think Tony already knows how to drink.
I have a Bosch hammer drill that I had to re-tighten the chuck every minute or so while using it (it'd seen lots of use). I used your method to remove the old chuck and looked through my stash of over 20 chucks, where I found the perfect replacement. Thanks for the idea to replace the chuck.
If my employer only know they payed me to learn things that don't pertain to my job! :)
I love it when Tig Obsessed Tony makes a new video!
"This one doesn't fit but how cool would that be" TOT 4:05
When has that ever stopped you?
got to get ToT to watch more Project Binky! . . . nothing stops those two maniacs.
I half expected him to chuck up a piece of stuck and cut an adapter.
Ah, not quite right, Cup of Tea anyone !
With regard to the saws, it's worth remembering that cold saws (also known as Brobo saws over here, the type that run around 50rpm with HSS blades and coolant) are running 350+mm blades (14 inch) with smoothbores, no problems at all. I've had to remind myself of that before too, lol... Also, you can get the coldsaw blades resharpened surprisingly cheaply (especially compared to replacement cost!), and I imagine those cutters would be the same, if you ever need it.
If you're not already using it all the time, those CK wedge collets are absolutely awesome in my book. I had a few of the traditional style get deformed in various ways (usually heat, but also overtightening), and either death grip the tungsten or fail to grip it. My watercooled CK torch came with a small assortment of those wedge collets, one of each size from memory. I'm still using the same 3/32 wedge collet 6 years later, and it still works perfect, despite having been run outside the ideal amperage range on a number of occasions among other punishments.... Grips with a minimum of torque required, releases instantly.
"This one doesnt fit, but how cool would that be?" I am dead
Milwaukee makes those hex bits up to 5/8" with the 1/4" hex. The titanium nitride set you buy comes with sizes up to 1/2". They designed them for their impact driver, but I don't find them to be that great.
I've broken several drilling into mild steel and 316L stainless. Good for about 3 cuts, then they dull and snap. I've also bent the shank on a couple.
I just bought 3!
I love welding with minnesota. smells like cheddar.
Ya, dat ud be fishys, er, lakes dat is.
I had a number of those Lexium drives I picked up and you inspired me to do something with them and after some software programming and a few episodes of technical dyslexia I am REALLY impressed...I have been setting very minute backless settings and a few other things and getting tenths repeatability...pretty impressive little drives!
3:00 had me worried you were gonna go full Wranglerstar. God that would have so quickly ruined this channel for me.
not sure what going full wrangle means.
@@ThisOldTony Wranglerstar! The crazy guy who hates everything except what he likes! The "homesteader" guy! he just hates on lots of tools, and one of his most famous videos that got lots of views was one where he let two drills "battle it out" by securing a rod between the two chucks, and running them against each other. The thumbnail was rather striking, which is likely why so many people watched it. Ironically, I never watched that video. Some of his older vids were good, but his channel has become very clickbait-y and unpleasant. He's a very "this tool doesnt work when I use it for something which it's not intended so it is TERRIBLE DON'T BUY IT, its unfortunate.its
Ben Sullivan I swear I’ve seen that. Dewalt vs something iirc. Dewalt immediately overpowered the other drill and its anti reverse lock kicked in. The dewalt then burnt out trying to turn a locked barrel. He declared it junk and the loser the winner. Am I on track?
It's got the crushing power to turn drill bits into black holes. :D Got a great laugh out of that one!
+1 for the gripping power of those older Bosch chucks.They also grab well on the mount side, I have one with the mounting screw removed just waiting for the chuck to fall off so I can use it on another drill.
Tony, I have that same drill. I think u got a faulty chuck. Mines fine. It doesn’t chew bits or come loose even if I’ve got a stirrer in it for mixing grout or paint. Take it back and get a new drill.
Wow, 27 dislikes so far. Ok people, fetch your pitchforks and flaming torches, we got some dissension in the camp.
Hey Old Tony,
I´m now watching your videos since over a year, I have nearly no tools nor a workshop. Still your content is always interesting to me (I´m a chemistry student). And even if I have no clue what you´re talking about, its´s always good for a laugh! Keep up the good work and the mix between making fun and teaching stuff.
legit have no idea with what your talking about with half of this stuff given im not a machinist but defiantly interesting to watch and you explain everything in pretty good detail!
Always a top video...
I started using m42 blades on my band-saws and they've lasted at least twice as long . I've also been able to run them faster than before on a wider range of materials.
Thanks for sharing Tony, makes me excited to get back in the shop!
1:00 Funny how we (in Germany) always loved and used Milwaukee drills in the shop, and when one very old ones of them finally broke, we got a German-made drill as a replacement. It was fine, but we found ourselves only rarely using it.
Whereas you seem to have loved the Bosch more xD
Machine tool classes should feature your channel, Tony. Keep it coming.
Very true about the m18 chuck. Even for the brushless. Fuel one seems fine.
A Bronx cheer for your coverage of Milwaukee tool chucks. Mine works just fine. Gonna send out my boys, they'll put your left knee in your table vice, then they will take your right arm and put it in your lathe. Of course, they will true the right arm up to 0.002 before proceeding, but by then you will have gotten the idea that maybe you should keep silent on certain things. You understand, right, Tony? Answer me Tony! Love your videos.
Little known instructions
Here’s a step by step breakdown of how to do it tighten a keyless chuck on a Milwaukee may work on others as well
1. Insert the drill bit into the drill chuck.
2. Tighten the drill chuck only by hand until it clicks several times.
3. Rotate the chuck back the opposite way, until you hear and feel one, single click.
4. Once you hear and feel the last click, the drill bit is locked securely into place.
Of course you need to know this before you jack up the chuck.
Love the show
I've got the hammerdrill version of the small Milwaukee drill. It cost more, but I have put mine through hell. I love it. Don't have the chuck shredding bits, and I have used a 1/2" bit without slipping. I mostly rip up the operational side of bits before anything. Marble, steel, wood, aluminum, tiles. I've drilled it. Fits nicely in my tool bag too.
100% agree. We had these drill manufacturing scoreboards and anything over 3/8 forget about it. High pitch screech and fresh burrs on the shank. The Fuels are much better.
I knew, somehow, today would turn out to be a good day. !! New ToT video!!yaaaaas.
Amazing videos! It really helps with my machining addiction (as I no longer work as one) and I really enjoy your sense of humor. Cheers
I always learn something watching your channel.
Thank you.
Your videos are great, better than what comes from TV nowadays. Sometimes I fall asleep while watching these. 👉🏻 I'm not saying these are boring, it's just your voice :D
I listen to his old videos at night, very calming
Any bit over and including a 3/16" diameter needs 3 flats for the chuck to hold on to. I absolutely love them. I use Milwaukee at work and they absolutely outperform DeWalt, not sure about Bosch as I have never used that brand.
Almost lost it when Corky popped up on the screen! lol but Life Goes On...
Happy morning waking up to one of your vids👍I use the same drill for my job but with 18volt (wrists of steel here lol) the chucks are useless, I’ve used double ended 1/8” drill bits before and had to pull them out of the screw in end of chuck after the chuck had come loose while drilling. Battery also jiggles a bit to and it flogs out the contact pins on drill and battery meaning you need to use two hands, one for drill and one to hold battery 4 of my tools have done it. My old freaky was like your bosh and still going strong 13years later can’t kill em.
Hi Tony, Normally you drive slitting saws without keys, so if they dig in, they slip and so, don't shatter and fly across the shop. Just turn up some spacer rings of different thicknesses to clamp it to your
arbor.
I totally agree with you on the chuck.....you can't beat a keyed chuck for holding power.
I'm sure you know, but for those who don't. If the saw does stop rotating for whatever reason, the spindle will continue to rotate tightening the arbour nut or bolt (possibly scoring and welding against the arbour. Then the saw will start turning again due to the extra nut tightness but with the high possibility that the saw will then break due to the new excessive depth of cut (machine table will continue feeding whilst the saw had stopped rotating). It may be very difficult to subsequently remove the nut due to the auto tightening.
The chips off that slitting saw were perfect! It'll cut for months like that.
I can recommend the Makita DHP481, I've had it for some time now and at least the chuck is a quality Japanese made chuck. As for de-arming power, it does about 115Nm which is enough that it punched a tooth through my cheek at some point (awkward position, had to drill under a table, wasn't paying attention...). I should note that I don't do that much metal work, but I've even had 1 meter long concrete drills in it without any issues.
I have the newer Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill and impact gun, and I could not be more happy with them.
Most advanced tool I got is a grip plier. Yet I binge watch this channel 🤔
Hey, that was "torquey Corkey" from Life Goes On. The wife and I were just talking about that show the other night. ❤️
I'm glad I'm not the only one with problem with the m18 drill.
I have an older Milwaukee drill and I put new cells in the battery pack and it's just like new now, and whatever kind of chuck they used back then holds everything really well, except for tiny bits. So I got a 3/8" Jacobs chuck with a 1/2" shank on it so I just chuck that chuck in it when I need to drill tiny holes.
I've never seen a good keyless chuck. I like those drill bits with the 3 flats on them.
As a Brit I really appreciated the aluminium jape. Nice one.
damn Tony. You really had me going there with that slow zoom at around 10:00. Thought for SURE something real bad was about to go down.