As one of the other comments called out, I was thinking - “just get a whole new assembly!”, assuming your labor to disassemble, diagnose and fix little parts would cost as much. But then I looked up the price of the pump assembly and immediately thought otherwise, especially when compared to only $70 for just the regulator. Add to that - you took the time to make a video, saving countless people a lot of money - not just with this issue, but in providing a better understanding of the component and system, as well as sharing diagnostic tactics and techniques that can be used elsewhere. You don’t get to bill for that. Just want you to know I appreciate it.
This young man "gets it". I've operated my own shops as well as managed dealership service depts. albeit long before RUclips was even an idea. Probably before algore invented the internet! I still work on family and friends iron when there is a need so it's nice to have a go-to resource from time to time. I have limited patience for the shade-tree guys with limited knowledge and a video camera that post junk. For sure will be saving Advanced Level Auto. Thanks Amigo!
solved my problem. by far the best video that I have ever watched. fast, straight to the point and well explained. Thank you sir. This was my daughters car and you made a daddy look smart to his daughter.
Nobody really knows how to read fuel trims, I always have wondered how to know if there is a vacuum leak or not, that is a good way to tell, thank you!
Thank so much for this excellent video! I once used the cap from a highlighter (or you can use a Sharpie cap), to disconnect that same style Toyota fuel line: you cut off the closed end of the cap so you have about 2 inches of cap, then cut it lengthwise so you can slip it over the line. You then slip the cap on the line and push the cap in towards the connector while pushing the connector towards the cap and it will disconnect it. Just mentioning that for anyone who doesn't have the cool tool that you have! I wish Toyota would just install schrader values on the fuel rails to make pressure checks much easier. I really liked your video and especially liked that you trouble-shot the regulator. Great diagnosis! Thanks again!
It is AMAZING the level of clear detail explanation you give on this video man, I finally understood how exactly a fuel pump works, I'm having the exact same issue on a 2006 Corolla, so, I'll just jump to it!!! You Rock man!!!
I love your videos . You always explain everything you are doing. As a mechanic for close to 40 years, I know how hard it is to film while your working ,it takes a lot longer to do the job when filming ....and you do it well!
Have you figured it out? I have the same issue with my 2007 Highlander 4 cylinders I just bought. Not as bad but maybe it takes 3-4 seconds. How long have you had this issue? Appreciate your reply.
Excellent. Fast and to the point with quick detailed narration. No fancy music or cut-scenes. Too bad that regulator wasn't in-line on the rail. I'm also surprised there isn't a check port on the rail as well. That's a nice bypass gauge you have. Thanks for the great video!
Great video as always. As someone who owns and wrenches on an almost 25 yr old car these sorts of diagnostics are super useful to get me in the right mindset when issues come up even if they aren't exactly ones you've covered.
I have what I think is a check valve problem in the fuel system as it will start sometimes very easy and at other times it sounds like no compression I am pretty sure it is either a fuel pump check valve problem or the pump is intermittently working. Toyota issued a bulletin saying they were having a check valve problem, I have to find the connection point for checking fuel pump pressure , regulator and check valve it is a 2002 Tacoma with a 2.7 L engine and 200,000 miles and runs like new except for this problem. Thanks for your fantastic analyses one old wrench to another brilliant young one!
That's why I always replace the whole module DONE! If they don't want to do that I send them on their merry way. I don't want to be the guy to be pulling the tank again(on cars that you have to pull the tank) when the fuel level sender or the regulator go bad 3K miles down the road. Great video bro! 👍
It is always best to replace the fuel pump and the pressure regulator at the same time. Especially if it is on the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Thank you for showing us how to troubleshoot it and repair it.
You... sir....are a BEAST. I had the exact same scenario come in the shop and after seeing your diagnostic procedure I made quick work of it. Btw that fuel pressure tester setup is genius👌
Had one of these in the shop recently with a fuel leak. Some jackass replaced the pump and lost the bolts that secure the fuel pump assembly to the tank. Instead of getting the proper bolts they used screws that were longer and the screws punctured holes all the way around the top of the tank. Some people have no common sense and should not be allowed to work on anything.
I was thinking of going after the maf sensor when the fuel trims didn't get better at high rpm's. At that point I felt like it was a 50/50 shot for maf vs low fuel supply, but I suppose the long crank time is what steered you towards fuel. Great video!
Great videos man . I fix stuff for a living so I can barely follow along . I dont think troubleshooting advance problems is for do it your selfer. Your video help professionals . Thank you very much .
I have really come to really enjoy your videos. Down to Earth, straight-forward, and easy to understand. You explain things well and appear to take good care of your customers. Thanks for bringing the great content. ~John
Very helpful video for checking 2005 Rav4 with similar problem Few notes! 10:28 Toyota with MAF don't use prime , Toyota with MAP (98 Camry) primes the gas line for 2 seconds Misfires alone will be likely cleared but open coil circuit code means it needs a new coil.
thanks for making videos. at work you only can learn from what rolls into the shop, thanks to you and many other youtubers i can learn after work as well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video! I'm having this same issue with my 2004 Camry with the same engine. I thought it was the fuel pump as well, so I changed it, but was still having the same issue.
"Dale otra vez" Great spanglish diagnostic. As always great case study , someone else would have replaced the Whole unit with out knowing with accuracy which part was broken.
10 seconds later, "Dale Bien, P#nd#j#!" Don't you love those moments when you help your dad fix the car, then he cusses up a storm because he lost the 10mm socket.
Another excellent diagnostic video, I sure like your home made adapter for cars with no Schrader valve. Thank you also for the detailed view of that special connector and the way that fuel pump assembly works. Where is the fuel filter in that system, is it in the body of the plastic assembly? I get the idea of saving money, especially when your customer has already replaced a part. They walked you into a pathway you might not have chosen. As you know most guys would replace the whole assembly.
LOL! 10:29 how slowly that needle crept up, haha! thanks for showing one method of checking the regulator, was curious how to check that, what an interesting find! was curious about deadheading the pump.. at the pump but thats pretty conclusive with the regulator! thanks for the share! looking forward to the next one!
You should take whole assembly out and put it in some bowl filled with fuel, block fuel way out and activate fuel pump then just look where you lose your pressure...
Love your videos. Love the way you show the fault and the correction. I was wondering where you got the tee to hook up your fuel gauge. Thanks again for great videos
Great video. I have the exact same problem with my highlander. Dosent start after its been running. Where do get this part?? My local part stores dont have it
clever man! My 2004 Sequoia has a longish crank so I suspect I may have a similar problem developing, I say developing because it isn't as bad as this and runs Ok and hasn't thrown any codes, downside is the fuel tank on my car will need to be dropped
Thank you for taking your time and making these fantastic case study , it has helped me alot in the field , one of my many weak key factor point is I knever got my head around fuel trims and what they mean ? Could you please make a video in detail how they work , I am pretty confident it would help out alot other guys out. that would be awesome * from uk *
No disrespect to Eric here as he does a fantastic job and has a great channel with exceptional content. However, if you are serious and want to learn about fuel trims (and everything else) and bring up your game as someone working in this field you need to check out the ScannerDanner (free) channel. Top notch training there and he also has a premium channel at his website. I get nothing from him for plugging his channel...just sharing that his channel has upped my game on engine performance diagnostics beyond words. I've been a premium member of his for several years now and have earned so much more money from the knowledge gained than I could ever spend on his premium content.
Good video I have a Corolla 2004 with a lean code it might be the fuel pump or something related the maf is reading at idle 1.54 grams per secon so I’m wondering what could it be
Eric excellent info.and video. Do you know if say Honda return-less pumps are capable of being rebuilt? I like that fuel T jumper Assembly. Did you fabricate it?Would like to make one for a Honda 3.5. As they also have no fuel rail Schrader valve. Thanks for your sharing of info and your time. ❤️
The shut-off valve on your pressure tester gives me an idea: having 2 shut-off valves (one on either side of the gauge) to check if the pressure loss is at the fuel rail or in-tank pressure regulator.
Hola agradezco tu video. Tengo un Corolla 12 con un problema similar en el arranque en frio, le cuesta en ocasiones. Pero despues de esto en el segundo, tercer arranca a la primera. Estoy en México ya se le cambio la bomba de la gasolina y el problema sigue. Lo que he notado es que espero unos segundos para la primera ignición y el carro arranca bien. En tu experiencia crees que pueda ser esta la misma solución?
Erick gracias por el video. Mi Camry trabaja bien una vez ya encendido, pero me ha dejado varado y no prende si no le bombeo o lo dejo descansar mínimo una hora. No codigos for meses con el mismo problema long crank muchas veces enciende en el segundo intento. Recientemente aparece P0171. Cheque le regulador de presión, cambie relay, cambie la assembly por otra de jonke. Pareciera que algo se calienta porque después de un rato vuelve a prender
great video Eric, how is Toyota can get away with not requiring a Fuel Prime, is it that their fuel line is so well engineered (no loss of fuel pressure overnight) that in the mornings the fuel line always has enough pressure to start engine right away ? Thanks.
Hi nice video my Toyota tundra does the same cranks very long an then starts up runs good for a while starts good for a couple days and then it does the same problem again what could be the problem I did check anything yet
Nice video nice explanation. I know you are probably trying to save the owner money but I would have changed the whole unit as the filter is part of the unit.
Looks like I need to buy some more quick disconnect tools. Last time I had a problem like that the customer had installed a fuel pump but the in tank filter had clogged on their Honda. Customers installing their own parts almost always costs them more money.
You have to admit, this one was a bit sneaky. I think there are a lot of pros who may have replaced the pump. At least that customer was smart enough to put a Denso pump in it. It wasn't some Amazon/eBay Chinesium junk. The key to this diagnosis, without having already replaced the pump, would have been to run the pump when still in the tank and listen to it. Does Toyota offer bidirectional control for it in 2001? One might have had to power probe it and look at a current waveform to be 100% sure it wasn't the pump motor itself. I think Eric O had a video like that where he could hear the pump bypassing inside the tank.
It is surprising to find out that a reurn less fuel system still have a fuel pressure regulator which is contrary to the common knowledge that a return less system have not regulator.
very well done Eric thanks for the info did you make that fuel pressure T FROM LANG TOOLS? im looking for fuel pressure teeing adapters for all Asian cars SUR&R? can you help me?
Okay I'm back, I'm ready to tackle the issue, and I cannot for the life of me, find the fuel pressure regulator tank and hose assembly for my 2007 Highlander. I called countless shops, and even Toyota. For a 2007 nothing similar to the part used in the video are available. I haven't taken the pump out yet to compare. How diffent can my 3.1 V6 be diffent in anyway? Anyways I ordered a part from Toyota that is considered the assembly for a fuel pressure regulator. Fingers crossed it's what I need. Where did you find your part? It's as if anything that's 2004-08 doesn't have That part at all.
I have a corolla 2000, sitting in my drive, its a crank ; no start; no fuel prime either is heard. It is a return-less system with pressure regulator inside the tank. I have been looking for the 2 second prime forever in your video you say toyota's do not make a priming sound that was a hard fact. I found a voltage drop of 9 volts at the positive side of fuel pump and the ground side is 0.0; The input sensors, crank /cam 2 wire cam and crank sensors, I don't no how to probe with amp meter and test light. The automatic shifter is stuck in park; and have not learn well the voltage drop test yet however watching your work makes me less afraid to make mistakes. If I place test light on positive side of battery to both signal and ground wire on the cam sensor, will it hurt the computer? I don't expect you to really answer because of your business demands however my situation could make a good video for you and many folks suffering with there car. There is an intermittent ignition fuse 7 amp, under dash, that blows out. Perhaps a short either on the ground or positive side of circuit. Its a trip to the wire diagrams. Respectfully, BB
I see the same problem with my wife's Toyota Highlander. This gives me a good insight on what I have to do. Thanks.
As one of the other comments called out, I was thinking - “just get a whole new assembly!”, assuming your labor to disassemble, diagnose and fix little parts would cost as much. But then I looked up the price of the pump assembly and immediately thought otherwise, especially when compared to only $70 for just the regulator. Add to that - you took the time to make a video, saving countless people a lot of money - not just with this issue, but in providing a better understanding of the component and system, as well as sharing diagnostic tactics and techniques that can be used elsewhere. You don’t get to bill for that. Just want you to know I appreciate it.
This young man "gets it". I've operated my own shops as well as managed dealership service depts. albeit long before RUclips was even an idea. Probably before algore invented the internet! I still work on family and friends iron when there is a need so it's nice to have a go-to resource from time to time. I have limited patience for the shade-tree guys with limited knowledge and a video camera that post junk. For sure will be saving Advanced Level Auto. Thanks Amigo!
solved my problem. by far the best video that I have ever watched. fast, straight to the point and well explained. Thank you sir. This was my daughters car and you made a daddy look smart to his daughter.
Nobody really knows how to read fuel trims, I always have wondered how to know if there is a vacuum leak or not, that is a good way to tell, thank you!
You make things really simple man. No one is out there who explains this that clear especially reading wiring diagram . Thanks
Thank so much for this excellent video! I once used the cap from a highlighter (or you can use a Sharpie cap), to disconnect that same style Toyota fuel line: you cut off the closed end of the cap so you have about 2 inches of cap, then cut it lengthwise so you can slip it over the line. You then slip the cap on the line and push the cap in towards the connector while pushing the connector towards the cap and it will disconnect it. Just mentioning that for anyone who doesn't have the cool tool that you have!
I wish Toyota would just install schrader values on the fuel rails to make pressure checks much easier. I really liked your video and especially liked that you trouble-shot the regulator. Great diagnosis! Thanks again!
Another option is to do the pressure measurement at the fuel pump assembly.
It is AMAZING the level of clear detail explanation you give on this video man, I finally understood how exactly a fuel pump works, I'm having the exact same issue on a 2006 Corolla, so, I'll just jump to it!!! You Rock man!!!
I love your videos . You always explain everything you are doing. As a mechanic for close to 40 years, I know how hard it is to film while your working ,it takes a lot longer to do the job when filming ....and you do it well!
My 2005 2.4 is doing the same. Not as bad as this, but on the way. Great video! 200,000 miles
Have you figured it out? I have the same issue with my 2007 Highlander 4 cylinders I just bought. Not as bad but maybe it takes 3-4 seconds. How long have you had this issue? Appreciate your reply.
You’re a straight shooter. I’ve used the old mouth pressure test thousands of times over the years. It can be a good tool used properly. Good work.
Excellent. Fast and to the point with quick detailed narration. No fancy music or cut-scenes. Too bad that regulator wasn't in-line on the rail. I'm also surprised there isn't a check port on the rail as well. That's a nice bypass gauge you have. Thanks for the great video!
Can't wait to tackle this fix! This video really gave me the confidence to know where to start and how to fix it.
Just got a 2002 highlander..thanks for a good education on the fuel pump, appreciate you
Great video as always. As someone who owns and wrenches on an almost 25 yr old car these sorts of diagnostics are super useful to get me in the right mindset when issues come up even if they aren't exactly ones you've covered.
I have what I think is a check valve problem in the fuel system as it will start sometimes very easy and at other times it sounds like no compression I am pretty sure it is either a fuel pump check valve problem or the pump is intermittently working. Toyota issued a bulletin saying they were having a check valve problem, I have to find the connection point for checking fuel pump pressure , regulator and check valve it is a 2002 Tacoma with a 2.7 L engine and 200,000 miles and runs like new except for this problem. Thanks for your fantastic analyses one old wrench to another brilliant young one!
Honestly a great video. I will start looking into this on my dad's car
That's why I always replace the whole module DONE! If they don't want to do that I send them on their merry way. I don't want to be the guy to be pulling the tank again(on cars that you have to pull the tank) when the fuel level sender or the regulator go bad 3K miles down the road.
Great video bro! 👍
Module assembly is almost $800 for this vehicle.
It is always best to replace the fuel pump and the pressure regulator at the same time. Especially if it is on the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Thank you for showing us how to troubleshoot it and repair it.
You... sir....are a BEAST. I had the exact same scenario come in the shop and after seeing your diagnostic procedure I made quick work of it. Btw that fuel pressure tester setup is genius👌
Great video. Straight to the point. Good video angles. Much better than other youtubers who have too much useless dialogue. Keep it up!
Good Job sir! actually, Excellent Job mate!!! Mad proud of your diagnosis and fix!
These man is a technician these is the difference good job
Had one of these in the shop recently with a fuel leak. Some jackass replaced the pump and lost the bolts that secure the fuel pump assembly to the tank. Instead of getting the proper bolts they used screws that were longer and the screws punctured holes all the way around the top of the tank. Some people have no common sense and should not be allowed to work on anything.
I was thinking of going after the maf sensor when the fuel trims didn't get better at high rpm's. At that point I felt like it was a 50/50 shot for maf vs low fuel supply, but I suppose the long crank time is what steered you towards fuel. Great video!
Thankyou: I am glad there are smart guys like you around to figure things out.
You probably wont make alot of money with your in depth process but we thank you!👍
Great videos man . I fix stuff for a living so I can barely follow along . I dont think troubleshooting advance problems is for do it your selfer. Your video help professionals . Thank you very much .
I have really come to really enjoy your videos. Down to Earth, straight-forward, and easy to understand. You explain things well and appear to take good care of your customers. Thanks for bringing the great content. ~John
Great video. I wouldn't have thought of that or known how to check and replace the regulator. Thank you for making it. Subscribed.
Very helpful video for checking 2005 Rav4 with similar problem
Few notes!
10:28 Toyota with MAF don't use prime , Toyota with MAP (98 Camry) primes the gas line for 2 seconds
Misfires alone will be likely cleared but open coil circuit code means it needs a new coil.
Excellent how to video. Really cool the way you use simple and high tech tools to diagnose the problem.
thanks for making videos. at work you only can learn from what rolls into the shop, thanks to you and many other youtubers i can learn after work as well.
Facts!
You teach better than my teacher when I took Auto in school tanks boss from Los Angeles California
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video! I'm having this same issue with my 2004 Camry with the same engine. I thought it was the fuel pump as well, so I changed it, but was still having the same issue.
Gm makes you change the whole module. Good fix.
Module assembly is almost $800 for this vehicle
Excellent job of explaining and troubleshooting. It was a little bit puzzling as to why the check engine light didn't clear at the end, though!
Great video Eric! Customer should've brought it to you straight away. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
"Dale otra vez"
Great spanglish diagnostic. As always great case study , someone else would have replaced the Whole unit with out knowing with accuracy which part was broken.
10 seconds later, "Dale Bien, P#nd#j#!" Don't you love those moments when you help your dad fix the car, then he cusses up a storm because he lost the 10mm socket.
The one i like this chanel is he show almost all the test and diag, tks so much sir and already subscribe and like for ur video.
You can tell a Toyota a dry engine no leaks great 👍 job thanks for sharing you he deserve. a lot more subscribers
Wow. Straight forward and right to the point. I learned something here. Thank you!
Another excellent diagnostic video, I sure like your home made adapter for cars with no Schrader valve. Thank you also for the detailed view of that special connector and the way that fuel pump assembly works. Where is the fuel filter in that system, is it in the body of the plastic assembly? I get the idea of saving money, especially when your customer has already replaced a part. They walked you into a pathway you might not have chosen. As you know most guys would replace the whole assembly.
spelunkerd it was that triangular thing hanging off the pump.
The whole assembly is almost $800 so they opted to just replace the regulator. Thanks for watching!
In addition to the filter sock at the inlet of the pump, the plastic housing surrounding the pump contains a filter which is non-replaceable.
Very good diagnosing. Keep up the good work and videos.
Nice diagnoses and repair
Thank you
I learned this work I the same problem on Toyota Corolla 09 thanks you for your good work
LOL! 10:29 how slowly that needle crept up, haha! thanks for showing one method of checking the regulator, was curious how to check that, what an interesting find! was curious about deadheading the pump.. at the pump but thats pretty conclusive with the regulator! thanks for the share! looking forward to the next one!
You should take whole assembly out and put it in some bowl filled with fuel, block fuel way out and activate fuel pump then just look where you lose your pressure...
Very impressive diagnosis.
Another great video! Thanks for taking the time to show us this Eric!
Another fine video! I learned a lot from this one!
Hi a grain, and thinks for sharing your experience.
I have more than cases like that, but I change the unit completely.
Love your videos. Love the way you show the fault and the correction. I was wondering where you got the tee to hook up your fuel gauge. Thanks again for great videos
The tee assembly is from my Snap-On set.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO the cranking at 10.52 was way too long. Will not it damaged the STARTER MOTOR GEAR TEETH in such case or alike??
Another great diagnoses! All the best to you and your little girl! Hope working on your own is working out good!
fantastic dissection of that fuel pump!
Great diagnostic,step by step video
Thanks for another great video everyone is a learning curve 😁
That's the way it is done. Good job eria
Me llega tu forma de trabajar hermano, Dios te bendiga siempre, saludos desde Honduras 👍
Thank you man. A great video in many ways. Please can you tell me how I can obtain the "TEE ADAPTER" you used to connect to the fuel line.
Great video. I have the exact same problem with my highlander. Dosent start after its been running. Where do get this part?? My local part stores dont have it
I'm liking that fuel line tap, Great video
Excellent troubleshooting technique. Thank you for sharing.
Good video, and thank for teaching, God bless you🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
clever man! My 2004 Sequoia has a longish crank so I suspect I may have a similar problem developing, I say developing because it isn't as bad as this and runs Ok and hasn't thrown any codes, downside is the fuel tank on my car will need to be dropped
Thank you for taking your time and making these fantastic case study , it has helped me alot in the field , one of my many weak key factor point is I knever got my head around fuel trims and what they mean ? Could you please make a video in detail how they work , I am pretty confident it would help out alot other guys out. that would be awesome * from uk *
Definitely on my to do list. Thank you for watching!
No disrespect to Eric here as he does a fantastic job and has a great channel with exceptional content. However, if you are serious and want to learn about fuel trims (and everything else) and bring up your game as someone working in this field you need to check out the ScannerDanner (free) channel. Top notch training there and he also has a premium channel at his website. I get nothing from him for plugging his channel...just sharing that his channel has upped my game on engine performance diagnostics beyond words. I've been a premium member of his for several years now and have earned so much more money from the knowledge gained than I could ever spend on his premium content.
Good video I have a Corolla 2004 with a lean code it might be the fuel pump or something related the maf is reading at idle 1.54 grams per secon so I’m wondering what could it be
Thank you Eric. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Eric excellent info.and video. Do you know if say Honda return-less pumps are capable of being rebuilt? I like that fuel T jumper Assembly. Did you fabricate it?Would like to make one for a Honda 3.5. As they also have no fuel rail Schrader valve. Thanks for your sharing of info and your time. ❤️
The shut-off valve on your pressure tester gives me an idea: having 2 shut-off valves (one on either side of the gauge) to check if the pressure loss is at the fuel rail or in-tank pressure regulator.
You are great! Thank you very much 🙂, you got my problem solved.
Very nice troubleshooting and explaining.
Erick. Sabes si el Toyota Camry 2009 tiene main relay?
Great job, appreciate the pump breakdown!!
Awesome diagnostic video. Thank you and have a fun week.
Hola agradezco tu video. Tengo un Corolla 12 con un problema similar en el arranque en frio, le cuesta en ocasiones. Pero despues de esto en el segundo, tercer arranca a la primera. Estoy en México ya se le cambio la bomba de la gasolina y el problema sigue. Lo que he notado es que espero unos segundos para la primera ignición y el carro arranca bien. En tu experiencia crees que pueda ser esta la misma solución?
Y no marca ningun codigo el auto.
Erick gracias por el video.
Mi Camry trabaja bien una vez ya encendido, pero me ha dejado varado y no prende si no le bombeo o lo dejo descansar mínimo una hora.
No codigos for meses con el mismo problema long crank muchas veces enciende en el segundo intento. Recientemente aparece P0171. Cheque le regulador de presión, cambie relay, cambie la assembly por otra de jonke.
Pareciera que algo se calienta porque después de un rato vuelve a prender
Is that scan tool you were using a good item for some just doing basic repairs? After seeing your video, I think it could help me a lot!
Probably would be a good idea to do a drive cycle to test for DTCs and readiness before to ship it.
Would you mind sharing where you got that QDC T adaptor? That looks like a slick tool.
I’ll see if I can post a link for it. Thanks for watching
almost the same problem with my 03 celica. hope its the same fix. Thanks
great video Eric, how is Toyota can get away with not requiring a Fuel Prime, is it that their fuel line is so well engineered (no loss of fuel pressure overnight) that in the mornings the fuel line always has enough pressure to start engine right away ? Thanks.
Very detail. Good diagnosys.
Excellent video, great explanation!
Great video. Do you recommend completing a drive cycle to make sure that the codes don't come back.
Hi nice video my Toyota tundra does the same cranks very long an then starts up runs good for a while starts good for a couple days and then it does the same problem again what could be the problem I did check anything yet
one that I recommend is taking the + off the battery and putting to the - to reset the motor
Nice video nice explanation. I know you are probably trying to save the owner money but I would have changed the whole unit as the filter is part of the unit.
Assembly is almost $800 so the customer could not afford to replace the complete module. Thank you for watching
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO thank you for the explanation love the videos.
Looks like I need to buy some more quick disconnect tools. Last time I had a problem like that the customer had installed a fuel pump but the in tank filter had clogged on their Honda. Customers installing their own parts almost always costs them more money.
I do agree with you on that...
You have to admit, this one was a bit sneaky. I think there are a lot of pros who may have replaced the pump. At least that customer was smart enough to put a Denso pump in it. It wasn't some Amazon/eBay Chinesium junk. The key to this diagnosis, without having already replaced the pump, would have been to run the pump when still in the tank and listen to it. Does Toyota offer bidirectional control for it in 2001? One might have had to power probe it and look at a current waveform to be 100% sure it wasn't the pump motor itself. I think Eric O had a video like that where he could hear the pump bypassing inside the tank.
It is surprising to find out that a reurn less fuel system still have a fuel pressure regulator which is contrary to the common knowledge that a return less system have not regulator.
fuel with return line good for cooling injector
outstanding diagnostic Erick, keep it coming, by the way where can i get a hold of A pulsar.
Nice video but for the 4 cylinders engines how come you read data from bank1 and bank2 ??
Eric, I have that exact vehicle and need to replace the fuel injectors. How can I get (identify) that fuel line removal tool?
Ouch that's hot, i love it, dropped like a hot jalapeno. never have done that job just changed whole unit pretty cool Eric thanks.
always something to learn from you thanks
21:22 I was like dam, new engine, but it was noise in the background.
when looking at the fuel trim on the odb , how do we know what values to look for ? what values is normal? what is not ?
very well done Eric thanks for the info did you make that fuel pressure T FROM LANG TOOLS? im looking for fuel pressure teeing adapters for all Asian cars SUR&R? can you help me?
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing...
Okay I'm back, I'm ready to tackle the issue, and I cannot for the life of me, find the fuel pressure regulator tank and hose assembly for my 2007 Highlander. I called countless shops, and even Toyota. For a 2007 nothing similar to the part used in the video are available. I haven't taken the pump out yet to compare. How diffent can my 3.1 V6 be diffent in anyway?
Anyways I ordered a part from Toyota that is considered the assembly for a fuel pressure regulator. Fingers crossed it's what I need.
Where did you find your part? It's as if anything that's 2004-08 doesn't have That part at all.
You are great diagnostician
I have a corolla 2000, sitting in my drive, its a crank ; no start; no fuel prime either is heard. It is a return-less system with pressure regulator inside the tank. I have been looking for the 2 second prime forever in your video you say toyota's do not make a priming sound that was a hard fact.
I found a voltage drop of 9 volts at the positive side of fuel pump and the ground side is 0.0; The input sensors, crank /cam 2 wire cam and crank sensors, I don't no how to probe with amp meter and test light.
The automatic shifter is stuck in park; and have not learn well the voltage drop test yet however watching your work makes me less afraid to make mistakes.
If I place test light on positive side of battery to both signal and ground wire on the cam sensor, will it hurt the computer?
I don't expect you to really answer because of your business demands however my situation could make a good video for you and many folks suffering with there car.
There is an intermittent ignition fuse 7 amp, under dash, that blows out. Perhaps a short either on the ground or positive side of circuit. Its a trip to the wire diagrams.
Respectfully,
BB
If that was mine, I'd want a whole new assembly.
I'm not used to those easy access fuel pods. I've only ever had the pleasure of removing the tank.