I play 78's on my 1209 which it does magnificently ..I always say it's a cross between a battle ship and a coo coo clock..massive and mechanically boggling..
THANK YOU!!!! I have an old unit that was a throwaway. Someone tried to fix up the unit, and reassembled some parts/clips upside down etc. I managed to get it to run, but the tone arm still doesn't move to play position or move back to "off" position, it just jumps a bit. I thought maybe there was a broken or missing part someplace, but didn't find anything obvious. The unit has a new "steuerpimpel" and the flat plate that it rubs on is clean and free of oil. The tone arm seems to be hanging someplace under the gimbal. If I had the $$$ would pack it up and send to you to fix.
hi @12voltvids, i have two Dual turntables, the 505 and the 650 rc, but both have the same problem, the platter doesn't stop at the end of the album. for the 505 i know that it hasn't auto-return but i read somewhere that it should stop the platter and lift the arm by itself at the end (not sure if its true) but the 650 its a semi-automatic so it should auto-return. Have u any idea of what could cause this issues and how to solve it? Thank you very much
Hi my 1019 after finishing the record the tone arm goes back but not going to rest, and then goes back to re start playing again. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I have i question, i have a Hitachi HT-356 that is working beautiful, but only problem is, when my auto stop is working arm doesn't go all the way to the rest arm, it drops close to it but it doesn't sit on it. I did dissasemble my turntable and found a rubber piece just loose inside of it, does that have to do something with it?
Man, just serviced a 1219 - needed the silicone oil in the arm lifter replenished (arm dropping too fast). What a royal pain in the ass. Have to disassemble so many things to get at the lifter...
How did you go with that? I'm looking at the same problem with a 1229 that I'm working on. I'm scared of having to take a lot of intricate parts out and then not knowing how to put it all back together. My intended method is going to be taking photos and also video if I can. I'm new at this so I'm taking my time reading the manual, watching guides like this and spending lots of one-on-one time just observing the mechanics underneath the turntable.
@@jeremylindemann5117 I just finished fixing my 1229 with a kit i bought on ebay that came with a very very well detailed pdf and stuerpimple/alvania grease kit. i highly recommend this kit! its very detailed on assembly/disassembly and gives tips on easy ways of doing repairs. I consider myself capable of doing most repairs myself but these turntables are very picky on lubricants and that pdf sure saved me several times! "mrow22" is the seller and you can custom order the stuff you need for your turntable. hope this helps!
@@starquestman1544 Are you referring to mrow22 on ebay? I've got his service pdf. I've sourced the grease and silicone oil locally. I need to get a couple more things like some tygon tubing and some nuts and bolts for the motor then I'm set to get into it. Still afraid of taking the dearing ring out though. :)
@@jeremylindemann5117 Yes mrow22 on ebay. he has the tygon tubing too. yes that dearing ring made me nervous too just be very gentile. i think that pdf mentions how to do it without removing the dearing ring?
@@starquestman1544 I posted some questions on the vinylengine.com forum and the experts there, including mrow22, said that it's better to leave the Dearing ring alone. They're probably right but I have nagging feeling that I need to inspect it because the last owner of my 1229 did a bad job of trying to fix something or service the unit. One of the skinny compression cylinders, the lift bolt I think, has a slight grinding noise when you push the nub down so I'm going to replace the silicone oil in that. There a number of spots where excess oil has been put and where no lube or a different lube was needed. The friction plate under the main lever was badly gouged out, probably in attempt to give the steuerpimpel more resistance because there is a movement issue with the tone arm. It was savage what they did. imgur.com/a/ASqqqtA It's a good thing I found out about the tygon tubing because like the experts said, that old plastic/rubber ring that holds the bearings in place was aged and split. I had already used the single/multi lever a number of times before I knew about that. I'm lucky that nothing came apart.
Oh, and the dreaded "steuerpimpel" - that little rubber knub that rides the friction plate. Almost 99% of these tables are missing it or it has turned to goo.
yup, this one is gone. That is why the control arm was adjusted last time this one was here. This is the one that the strobe disk paper sleeve had come unglued from the underside of the platter.
@@12voltvids I have a 1229 with a steuerpimpel that is worn down, I took it out and the face is so thin that it's transparent. I've ordered some new ones from Germany which are on the way. I also experimented with some other materials like the white plastic from a co-ax cable and some rubber spline for screen mesh. I've had mixed results, not sure what the issue is but the tone-arm is inconsistently moving correctly and incorrectly. I think my 1229 has other issues but I'm slowly learning things as I watch guides like yours, read the manual and just experiment with the turntable. Incidentally I noticed that there is another thing that looks like a steuerpimpel on the top of the piston that it raised by the cue lever. Is that the same as the steuerpimpel from underneath the record that is operated by the main arm?
It protruded from the base of the tone arm and rides on the top if the control arm. That is the metal or plastic lever that rides the groove in the control cam gear.
Hey guys, I've got a dual CS 528 turntable. Everything works fine but the music seems to drag. Would that be the needle or the belt is the problem? Any help would greatly be appreciated
Hi there. I own a Dual 1219 and the automatic mode works perfectly, except that I noticed that after turning the turntable to its side to make a little repairment on the wood, the arm began to fall on the wrong spot when I turn it off. It falls and rests slightly before reaching the armrest. How can I fix it? Thanks in advance.
I added a comment -- on another of your videos -- but have yet to get a reply there... so I'll try here. My 1229 is still in the repair shop. I have been 'putting off' going to pick it up (they said the 'tone-arm return feature' would no longer work correctly "because the friction pad was worn too smooth")... until hearing from you. I saw where you said in this video that: tightening down the screw at the other end of the friction-pad arm, would force the friction pad UP to give it more "connection?" to the steuerpimpel (which my repair guys said is in good shape). Before paying them over $100 for 'Not completely repairing' my 1229... I wanted to know from you: Should I ask or suggest that they tighten that screw?... or just try to find a replacement part with a more 'grippy' friction pad? Don't know for sure the Exact Verbage to 'correctly techically describe' the long metal bar with the friction pad at one end, I have seen it called several different things ?
The friction plate on the control arm is pretty easy to recondition. Glue a small strip of very fine grit polishing paper like aluminum oxide paper to give the steurpimple something to stick to.
@@12voltvids THANKS AGAIN... that's what I thought! I had asked my repair guys if they could do anything to "rough up" the friction pad to give it the need resistance you detailed... and they said "Nope!" Disappointing - but GLAD we have you to set the record straight. Greatly appreciate your help, looking forward to going to pick up my 1229 !! .
@@kchambers8102 yeah the repair guys are probably hoping that you're going to abandon the unit and tell them to junk it and then they will do that and sell it for 500 bucks
Another question about fixing my 1229's friction pad: Can that small strip of aluminum oxide paper be slipped in from the side (with glue on the back of it) - without having to remove the arm? & Would suggest rubber cement or Elmer's glue?
Funny, in the 70's / 80's (I still have a 1249) everyone here (US) pronounced these as "doo-AL". Now it seems they've migrated over to a more German pronunciation.
I didn't understand how you adjust it from the top. You talk about bending something but you don´t demonstrate it. I have a 1246 and the starting point of the arm on 45`s is too early. the under part of it is not like the unit you show.
The adjustments are the 2 screws I showed in the bottom. On a previous video I slightly bent the end of record sensing lever because the cam screw on the bottom. Was already at it's end of adjustment. This lengthened the arm by a few mm so I could then set the correct pick up point with the cam screw on the bottom. There is another video showing this.
Wow I was not expecting a response so soon WOW am honored you took my question been watching your videos since the start of thus covid crisis very detailed. And found what you do very fascinating I only been working on old BSR 's for the last few months got 2 of them one with a ceramic cartridge and the other with a magnetic cart they both work after cleaning them and lubricating them ,the Dual 1209 I got was by luck I got this on EBay it has wooden base very good condition the TT was a little rough I new platter was frozen , linkages were very stiff but got it to work only problem was the start and stop switch seem too loose it looks like it is lacking something too much play but tone arm when it is moved platter turns on and boy it has a lot of torque it moved the whole base but when it cycles off the idler wheel goes to its position but main motor stays on unless I unplug it ,the plastic cover that covers the connection for motor was smashed when. I got it and looks like somebody worked on it before cause it was wired wrong had to move connectors out of the plastic snap and move it so ad to fit in the plastic cover it comes with and I looked under name plate to adjust set down point but there is nothing there I apologize with all this info tried to down load manual. But it has info on set down point but does not show where to adjust it plus my laptop died and I am doing everything on my phone if you respond I will thank you but I don't blame you if you do not it is a lot that I am burdening you with but THANKS AGAIN for responding and have a safe and HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!#!!!!JRo
Hi my 1019 after finishing the record the tone arm goes back but not going to rest, and then goes back to re start playing again. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. I proudly spin a fully functional 1209. I'm always amazed by the complexity of the fully mechanical mechanism.
I play 78's on my 1209 which it does magnificently ..I always say it's a cross between a battle ship and a coo coo clock..massive and mechanically boggling..
THANK YOU!!!! I have an old unit that was a throwaway. Someone tried to fix up the unit, and reassembled some parts/clips upside down etc. I managed to get it to run, but the tone arm still doesn't move to play position or move back to "off" position, it just jumps a bit. I thought maybe there was a broken or missing part someplace, but didn't find anything obvious. The unit has a new "steuerpimpel" and the flat plate that it rubs on is clean and free of oil. The tone arm seems to be hanging someplace under the gimbal. If I had the $$$ would pack it up and send to you to fix.
hi @12voltvids, i have two Dual turntables, the 505 and the 650 rc, but both have the same problem, the platter doesn't stop at the end of the album. for the 505 i know that it hasn't auto-return but i read somewhere that it should stop the platter and lift the arm by itself at the end (not sure if its true) but the 650 its a semi-automatic so it should auto-return. Have u any idea of what could cause this issues and how to solve it?
Thank you very much
Hi my 1019 after finishing the record the tone arm goes back but not going to rest, and then goes back to re start playing again. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I want my arm to come down slow like that. I have a 1218 which appears to have some kind of spring on it. Is there no fluid in there?
I have i question, i have a Hitachi HT-356 that is working beautiful, but only problem is, when my auto stop is working arm doesn't go all the way to the rest arm, it drops close to it but it doesn't sit on it. I did dissasemble my turntable and found a rubber piece just loose inside of it, does that have to do something with it?
Man, just serviced a 1219 - needed the silicone oil in the arm lifter replenished (arm dropping too fast). What a royal pain in the ass. Have to disassemble so many things to get at the lifter...
How did you go with that?
I'm looking at the same problem with a 1229 that I'm working on. I'm scared of having to take a lot of intricate parts out and then not knowing how to put it all back together. My intended method is going to be taking photos and also video if I can.
I'm new at this so I'm taking my time reading the manual, watching guides like this and spending lots of one-on-one time just observing the mechanics underneath the turntable.
@@jeremylindemann5117 I just finished fixing my 1229 with a kit i bought on ebay that came with a very very well detailed pdf and stuerpimple/alvania grease kit. i highly recommend this kit! its very detailed on assembly/disassembly and gives tips on easy ways of doing repairs. I consider myself capable of doing most repairs myself but these turntables are very picky on lubricants and that pdf sure saved me several times! "mrow22" is the seller and you can custom order the stuff you need for your turntable. hope this helps!
@@starquestman1544 Are you referring to mrow22 on ebay?
I've got his service pdf. I've sourced the grease and silicone oil locally. I need to get a couple more things like some tygon tubing and some nuts and bolts for the motor then I'm set to get into it.
Still afraid of taking the dearing ring out though. :)
@@jeremylindemann5117 Yes mrow22 on ebay. he has the tygon tubing too. yes that dearing ring made me nervous too just be very gentile. i think that pdf mentions how to do it without removing the dearing ring?
@@starquestman1544 I posted some questions on the vinylengine.com forum and the experts there, including mrow22, said that it's better to leave the Dearing ring alone.
They're probably right but I have nagging feeling that I need to inspect it because the last owner of my 1229 did a bad job of trying to fix something or service the unit. One of the skinny compression cylinders, the lift bolt I think, has a slight grinding noise when you push the nub down so I'm going to replace the silicone oil in that.
There a number of spots where excess oil has been put and where no lube or a different lube was needed. The friction plate under the main lever was badly gouged out, probably in attempt to give the steuerpimpel more resistance because there is a movement issue with the tone arm. It was savage what they did.
imgur.com/a/ASqqqtA
It's a good thing I found out about the tygon tubing because like the experts said, that old plastic/rubber ring that holds the bearings in place was aged and split. I had already used the single/multi lever a number of times before I knew about that. I'm lucky that nothing came apart.
Can you fix a 1264 belt driven turntable?
Oh, and the dreaded "steuerpimpel" - that little rubber knub that rides the friction plate. Almost 99% of these tables are missing it or it has turned to goo.
yup, this one is gone. That is why the control arm was adjusted last time this one was here. This is the one that the strobe disk paper sleeve had come unglued from the underside of the platter.
@@12voltvids I have a 1229 with a steuerpimpel that is worn down, I took it out and the face is so thin that it's transparent.
I've ordered some new ones from Germany which are on the way. I also experimented with some other materials like the white plastic from a co-ax cable and some rubber spline for screen mesh. I've had mixed results, not sure what the issue is but the tone-arm is inconsistently moving correctly and incorrectly. I think my 1229 has other issues but I'm slowly learning things as I watch guides like yours, read the manual and just experiment with the turntable.
Incidentally I noticed that there is another thing that looks like a steuerpimpel on the top of the piston that it raised by the cue lever. Is that the same as the steuerpimpel from underneath the record that is operated by the main arm?
Where exactly is the Steuerpimpel ?? I have a 1209 that will not cycle...help please !!
+-
It protruded from the base of the tone arm and rides on the top if the control arm. That is the metal or plastic lever that rides the groove in the control cam gear.
Hey guys, I've got a dual CS 528 turntable. Everything works fine but the music seems to drag. Would that be the needle or the belt is the problem? Any help would greatly be appreciated
Thanks for the tip @12voltvids. Your videos have been a lifesaver to me.
My Cartridge holder pin holder has fallen out of my Dual 1229 . Is it fixable
Hi there. I own a Dual 1219 and the automatic mode works perfectly, except that I noticed that after turning the turntable to its side to make a little repairment on the wood, the arm began to fall on the wrong spot when I turn it off. It falls and rests slightly before reaching the armrest. How can I fix it? Thanks in advance.
I have the same issue with my Dual 515, did you ever find out how to fix it?
I added a comment -- on another of your videos -- but have yet to get a reply there... so I'll try here.
My 1229 is still in the repair shop. I have been 'putting off' going to pick it up (they said the 'tone-arm return feature' would no longer work correctly "because the friction pad was worn too smooth")... until hearing from you.
I saw where you said in this video that: tightening down the screw at the other end of the friction-pad arm, would force the friction pad UP to give it more "connection?" to the steuerpimpel (which my repair guys said is in good shape).
Before paying them over $100 for 'Not completely repairing' my 1229... I wanted to know from you: Should I ask or suggest that they tighten that screw?... or just try to find a replacement part with a more 'grippy' friction pad?
Don't know for sure the Exact Verbage to 'correctly techically describe' the long metal bar with the friction pad at one end, I have seen it called several different things ?
The friction plate on the control arm is pretty easy to recondition. Glue a small strip of very fine grit polishing paper like aluminum oxide paper to give the steurpimple something to stick to.
@@12voltvids THANKS AGAIN... that's what I thought!
I had asked my repair guys if they could do anything to "rough up" the friction pad to give it the need resistance you detailed... and they said "Nope!" Disappointing - but GLAD we have you to set the record straight.
Greatly appreciate your help, looking forward to going to pick up my 1229 !!
.
@@kchambers8102
yeah the repair guys are probably hoping that you're going to abandon the unit and tell them to junk it and then they will do that and sell it for 500 bucks
Another question about fixing my 1229's friction pad:
Can that small strip of aluminum oxide paper be slipped in from the side (with glue on the back of it) - without having to remove the arm? & Would suggest rubber cement or Elmer's glue?
@@kchambers8102 probably contact cement. I would take the control arm off. It is just held on by a single pin and e clip.
My Dual turntable’s tone arm just lifts and then sits back down when I hit the start button. Does the red screw adjustment fix that?
No, that means you have to clean and re-lube the cam and other mechanisms.
hey.....so if the arm "start" position is too early (missing album completely)....that's the red screw? *(Thanks for your channel!) I have 1229Q
Where is the set down adjustment for Dual 1209 ,it keeps landing on edge of record instead of in record
I believe it is under the dual logo. That is a cover can be turned and there is a hole under it. A screw in there adjusts the set down.
Super sir 😎😎😎
What type of lubricant did you use for the mechanical parts?
Lithium grease.
Funny, in the 70's / 80's (I still have a 1249) everyone here (US) pronounced these as "doo-AL". Now it seems they've migrated over to a more German pronunciation.
You'z the MANN!!!!
I didn't understand how you adjust it from the top. You talk about bending something but you don´t demonstrate it. I have a 1246 and the starting point of the arm on 45`s is too early. the under part of it is not like the unit you show.
The adjustments are the 2 screws I showed in the bottom. On a previous video I slightly bent the end of record sensing lever because the cam screw on the bottom. Was already at it's end of adjustment. This lengthened the arm by a few mm so I could then set the correct pick up point with the cam screw on the bottom. There is another video showing this.
@@12voltvids hi thanks for your time. Can you put the link of "that other video" in this comment. You have many videos. Thannks
Wow I was not expecting a response so soon WOW am honored you took my question been watching your videos since the start of thus covid crisis very detailed. And found what you do very fascinating I only been working on old BSR 's for the last few months got 2 of them one with a ceramic cartridge and the other with a magnetic cart they both work after cleaning them and lubricating them ,the Dual 1209 I got was by luck I got this on EBay it has wooden base very good condition the TT was a little rough I new platter was frozen , linkages were very stiff but got it to work only problem was the start and stop switch seem too loose it looks like it is lacking something too much play but tone arm when it is moved platter turns on and boy it has a lot of torque it moved the whole base but when it cycles off the idler wheel goes to its position but main motor stays on unless I unplug it ,the plastic cover that covers the connection for motor was smashed when. I got it and looks like somebody worked on it before cause it was wired wrong had to move connectors out of the plastic snap and move it so ad to fit in the plastic cover it comes with and I looked under name plate to adjust set down point but there is nothing there I apologize with all this info tried to down load manual. But it has info on set down point but does not show where to adjust it plus my laptop died and I am doing everything on my phone if you respond I will thank you but I don't blame you if you do not it is a lot that I am burdening you with but THANKS AGAIN for responding and have a safe and HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!#!!!!JRo
I know that song!! 😃
the shortest vid yet lol
Rim drive!
Well at least dual did it right with a 20lb platter, not a plastic one like those "Bloody Shitty Rumble" BSR tables.
Hi my 1019 after finishing the record the tone arm goes back but not going to rest, and then goes back to re start playing again. Any suggestions? Thanks.