I know this video has been up for a few years now, but still just wanted to pass along a "thank you for an excellent video!" I found it clear, concise, and very helpful.
If you pull out the diaphragm, clear any debris, and it's STILL leaking - there may be a large(ish) knob in the middle you can turn to tighten the pressure from the spring on the diaphragm. Turn the solenoid a quarter turn to test the water pressure and make sure everything works. It should be just loose enough to let enough water flow when it's on. Tighten if necessary - that was my issue with a weeping sprinkler head.
Excellent information. I wasted hours thinking I just had a broken line or sprinkler when it was a faulty vave diaphragm. In another case it was a faulty solenoid.
A tip: if your diaphragm has a screw on the bottom side, you can remove the retaining disk, then flip over the washer (you'll have to pry it out & back in again, flipped). Chlorine hardens the rubber, so it is not as good as new by any means, but it can hold you over until the new diaphragm arrives. At least if you're lucky!
VERY good video...However I have some strange type of valve where I cannot unscrew the solenoid. It is very dirty so i cannot figure out the brand. It looks like I might have to remove the entire top cover of the valve to service it (which is fine) but I have no idea what type of valve it is, or whether i can find replacement parts. Have you heard of a valve like that? The solenoid appears to be hard fixed tot he valve cover.
First off, thanks for watching and for the comment! Unfortunately, it's difficult to determine what kind of valve you have by the description. You might take a photo of it and visit a Ewing branch for assistance if you have one near you. You can search locations using this link: store.ewingirrigation.com/locations/
Thanks for the question C ROD. That's a tough one to diagnose without more detail but here's some info on the subject. Water hammer can occur when valves open or close too quickly. It's the shock wave created by a surge of water that stops abruptly inside the system. This is primarily the result of a large volume of water (gpm) and high pressure (psi) in an undersized (for that volume) main line. In other words, a system design flaw. That said, swapping out a solenoid shouldn't lead to the issue. It may be that this is an existing issue that you are just noticing as you made your repair. Another cause may be that air was introduced into your system during the repair. Try flushing out the zone to purge any trapped air that may be causing the problem. Another option is to adjust the flow control for the valve if it has one. Most likely this is an issue with pressure/flow. If all else fails you can add a pressure regulator or water hammer arrestor (www.ewingirrigation.com/3-4-in-water-hammer-arrestor) to the system. If your valve supports it, you may be able to add a regulator under the solenoid for controlling just that zone: www.ewingirrigation.com/accu-sync-adj-adj-pres-reglatr
Hi I have 4 zone , two of the zones are running without turning the system. How I can identify which valve control each zone. I changed the solenoid but the problem still continues Please advise
There are a few different reasons a valve could continue running. Air trapped inside, stuck solenoid, bad diaphragm, etc. If the valves are old, it might be time to replace them. If you can find the same model, you should be able to leave the body installed and just replace the internal components, bonnet and solenoid. If we have a Ewing store in your area you can contact them for more information as well as a contractor referral if you need one. store.ewingirrigation.com/locations/
How do you flush the valve free of debris WITHOUT filling the valve box full of water? more stuff tends to float around and get sucked back into the valve body thus creating a problem - the valve will not work as it was designed if there is grit stopping diaphragm from closing. How do you properly flush WITHOUT water filling the valve box?
Flushing the valve should only take a moment. If the valve box if filling up that quickly, then sediment has likely built up over time preventing drainage. Pea gravel is commonly used to backfill valve boxes to allow for drainage. If you would like to flush the entire zone, do that by removing the nozzle from the last sprinkler head in the line then run the zone for up to a minute until it runs clear/clean. If it's a drip zone, there should be a flush cap or figure 8 crimp at the end of the line that you can open. Thanks for the question!
@@ewingoutdoorsupply yes a five second burst but in those 5 seconds you can remove the debris/grit but the valve box will fill with water which requires a cup, hand pump or in some case a guy has to dig up the valve box to keep the box water free - all of these methods require more time. I'm wanting to do a diaphragm swap/flush in a water free valve box - most valve boxes are just plain yucky
Thanks for the comment, Jeff. You may have local codes that require a 12" installation height for anti-siphon valves but in general the installation height should be a minimum of 6" above the highest head in the zone. Here are a couple of links to Rain Bird and Hunter's anti-siphon valve specs for more information: www.rainbird.com/products/dasasvf-sureflow-automatic-anti-siphon-valves www.hunterindustries.com/support/pgv-asv-installation#:~:text=All%20Hunter%20Industries%20Anti%2DSiphon,result%20in%20unsafe%20backflow%20condition.
I know this video has been up for a few years now, but still just wanted to pass along a "thank you for an excellent video!" I found it clear, concise, and very helpful.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Super super clear instructions and very valuable information a lot of videos didn't include.. Thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment!
If you pull out the diaphragm, clear any debris, and it's STILL leaking - there may be a large(ish) knob in the middle you can turn to tighten the pressure from the spring on the diaphragm. Turn the solenoid a quarter turn to test the water pressure and make sure everything works. It should be just loose enough to let enough water flow when it's on. Tighten if necessary - that was my issue with a weeping sprinkler head.
Excellent information. I wasted hours thinking I just had a broken line or sprinkler when it was a faulty vave diaphragm. In another case it was a faulty solenoid.
Thanks for the comment. Glad you got it working!
A tip: if your diaphragm has a screw on the bottom side, you can remove the retaining disk, then flip over the washer (you'll have to pry it out & back in again, flipped). Chlorine hardens the rubber, so it is not as good as new by any means, but it can hold you over until the new diaphragm arrives. At least if you're lucky!
great information. clear and concise. thank you
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I appreciate your time thank you 🙏
Thanks for watching!
Super Helpful!! Thanks ;) it worked for me
Great! Thanks for the comment!
VERY good video...However I have some strange type of valve where I cannot unscrew the solenoid. It is very dirty so i cannot figure out the brand. It looks like I might have to remove the entire top cover of the valve to service it (which is fine) but I have no idea what type of valve it is, or whether i can find replacement parts. Have you heard of a valve like that? The solenoid appears to be hard fixed tot he valve cover.
First off, thanks for watching and for the comment! Unfortunately, it's difficult to determine what kind of valve you have by the description. You might take a photo of it and visit a Ewing branch for assistance if you have one near you. You can search locations using this link: store.ewingirrigation.com/locations/
So I replace the solenoid, and now I have a case of bad water hammer for the specific zone w the new selenoid. Why? What needs to be done?
Thanks for the question C ROD. That's a tough one to diagnose without more detail but here's some info on the subject.
Water hammer can occur when valves open or close too quickly. It's the shock wave created by a surge of water that stops abruptly inside the system. This is primarily the result of a large volume of water (gpm) and high pressure (psi) in an undersized (for that volume) main line. In other words, a system design flaw.
That said, swapping out a solenoid shouldn't lead to the issue. It may be that this is an existing issue that you are just noticing as you made your repair. Another cause may be that air was introduced into your system during the repair. Try flushing out the zone to purge any trapped air that may be causing the problem. Another option is to adjust the flow control for the valve if it has one.
Most likely this is an issue with pressure/flow. If all else fails you can add a pressure regulator or water hammer arrestor (www.ewingirrigation.com/3-4-in-water-hammer-arrestor) to the system. If your valve supports it, you may be able to add a regulator under the solenoid for controlling just that zone: www.ewingirrigation.com/accu-sync-adj-adj-pres-reglatr
Ewing Irrigation & Landscape Supply I’ll try the arrestor thank you
Hi
I have 4 zone , two of the zones are running without turning the system. How I can identify which valve control each zone. I changed the solenoid but the problem still continues
Please advise
There are a few different reasons a valve could continue running. Air trapped inside, stuck solenoid, bad diaphragm, etc. If the valves are old, it might be time to replace them. If you can find the same model, you should be able to leave the body installed and just replace the internal components, bonnet and solenoid. If we have a Ewing store in your area you can contact them for more information as well as a contractor referral if you need one.
store.ewingirrigation.com/locations/
How do you flush the valve free of debris WITHOUT filling the valve box full of water? more stuff tends to float around and get sucked back into the valve body thus creating a problem - the valve will not work as it was designed if there is grit stopping diaphragm from closing.
How do you properly flush WITHOUT water filling the valve box?
Flushing the valve should only take a moment. If the valve box if filling up that quickly, then sediment has likely built up over time preventing drainage. Pea gravel is commonly used to backfill valve boxes to allow for drainage. If you would like to flush the entire zone, do that by removing the nozzle from the last sprinkler head in the line then run the zone for up to a minute until it runs clear/clean. If it's a drip zone, there should be a flush cap or figure 8 crimp at the end of the line that you can open. Thanks for the question!
@@ewingoutdoorsupply yes a five second burst but in those 5 seconds you can remove the debris/grit but the valve box will fill with water which requires a cup, hand pump or in some case a guy has to dig up the valve box to keep the box water free - all of these methods require more time. I'm wanting to do a diaphragm swap/flush in a water free valve box - most valve boxes are just plain yucky
thank.
Thanks for Watching!
12” not 6”.
Thanks for the comment, Jeff. You may have local codes that require a 12" installation height for anti-siphon valves but in general the installation height should be a minimum of 6" above the highest head in the zone. Here are a couple of links to Rain Bird and Hunter's anti-siphon valve specs for more information:
www.rainbird.com/products/dasasvf-sureflow-automatic-anti-siphon-valves
www.hunterindustries.com/support/pgv-asv-installation#:~:text=All%20Hunter%20Industries%20Anti%2DSiphon,result%20in%20unsafe%20backflow%20condition.