Front end clunk while braking? Change out your upper control arm bushing on a Dana 30
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- I developed a clunk in my front end (Dana 30) while braking or taking off from a dead stop after some wheeling. I found a few chunks missing from my upper control arm bushing. This is a video of me pressing the old ones out and replacing with Moog problem solvers #K3128.
Get your bushings here
amzn.to/3tgYlZ4
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Link to the parts and tools used
Upper control arm bushings:
amzn.to/31vfLoV
Ball Joint press kit :
www.harborfrei...
Front axle bearing adapter kit:
www.harborfrei...
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I feel your pain brother. "What did I break now?" Is a regular question I ask myself as a fellow jeep owner. I'll be doing my control arm bushings here soon.
Man, thank you! Best video I've found yet!
Thank you!
DEATH WOBBLE? . . . it _could_ be the brakes. Here is my story.
What finally fixed my DW was putting new front brake pads and rotors on my WJ. WJ's have a Dana 30 front axle. Nothing I did would completely alleviate it, but I needed brakes too. So, after having replaced all four C-arms and a new track bar, and the DW still there but not as bad. I replaced the front pads and rotors and to my astonishment, DW is now gone. That did it, that was what finally eliminated it. I have no explanation other than my old brakes had a pretty bad pulsation when braking. Maybe it was just the right frequency to initiate the dreaded DW and replacing the brake parts finally fixed it. It's something I never hear mentioned when trying to solve DW. The previous owner had replaced all the tie-rods and put just cheap urethane bushings in the old track bar. Now it makes sense why I got the Jeep so cheap. Previous owner didn't fix the DW and through in the towel and just sold it cheap. And also why the DW wouldn't start until after the brakes were good and warmed up. Didn't do it on the short test drive before I bought it. Something to consider.
I havent seen brakes as a major cause of DW. Ive mainly seen worn components and bad tires. Nice that you figured out your issue.
Brakes have absolutely nothing to do with death wobble... If you're getting symptoms of DW when braking you have other worn out steering or suspension parts that need replacing.
Great video. Only suggestion would be that the upper control arm bolt shouldn't have been torqued to spec until the weight of the vehicle was on the suspension. Torquing it while suspended on jack stands will preload the bushing when the vehicle is later lowered to the ground. This can result in a premature failure of the bushing.
Good catch. I'll have to remember that next time.
Of course you need to tighten those bolts after it is off the jacks and resting on the ground. One could observe the binding release when you loosened the bolt. Nice video.
good tip. Thanks !
Thank you!
Will copy this 100 percent this weekend.
hope it went well. the press helps.
Dude thanks for this video! My dealer replaced all my ball joints and tie rods and replaced my front drive shaft and could never fix this clunking on my JK. I checked this bolt and found my bushing is kind of worn but the bolt was lose! Fixed! Thanks again!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching..
Those front uppers will also give you a hellish vibration. I replaced EVERYTHING everything EvErYtHInG up front.... except the front upper control arm bushings.
When those failed..
At cruise: sometimes smooth, sometimes vibes.
Under acceleration: always smooth and perfect.
Let off the throttle or deceleration: horrible vibrations.
@@xmo552 great tips !!! Thanks
@@FMJeeping
For reference mine is a WJ, but they're all similar.
Yw 👍😉
@@xmo552 pretty much. Thanks again
You made it look so easy lol
Thanks. IIRC it was a little bit of a struggle to get the press in there, but once it started to work, the bushings came out pretty easily. You can do it!
Thanks for the help. I need those tall jack stands. Where can I find them please!
Thanks you for watching. Those tall jack stands are old school harbor freight jackstands. They are like 8 years old. I'm not sure they sell them anymore.
Good video! Keep up the great work on the channel. ❤️🐞
Thanks Bug! You keep doing the same.
What does the WJ need now could also be a fitting title.
Lol. I say that everyday I work on it
I am replacing my bolts with grade 8 bolts what size and length on my xj
Sorry, I am not sure. I did this a few years ago , and I no longer have a D30.
When you pushed it out, what size was the pushing cup?
I'm sorry, but I don't remember which one I used. I did this a long time ago and no longer have a Dana 30 to check
im doing this right now and i cant get the axle aligned right to put the control arm back on i tried a ratchet strap and a jack but nothing will pull the axle enough
The jack seems to work the best for me. Most times if I have to shift the top of the axle forwards, I will put a jack under the housing right before the pinion. If I have to shift the upper control arm back. I will put the jack under the spring perch. If you are heavy on the jack and it is not budging. It is binding up some where. Make sure the drive shaft didn't slip out of the yoke.
@@FMJeeping i had to get spring compresses to relieve the pressure from the springs pushing on it i just got it done thanks for the help
@@xunknownx6400 good to hear you got it finished
@@FMJeeping sadly did not fix my death wobble problem im honestly stuck dont know what it could be
@@xunknownx6400 of everything is new and tight. Have you tried swapping out tires with known good ones?
Nice job.It seems that a lot of people will switch that rubber joint out for a Currie Johnny Joint.They say the 3 link puts too much stress on the rubber joint and causes it to wear out prematurely.
Dan, I looked into a Johnny Joint and other flex joints, bit I did not like the harshness in the ride that would come along those. A lot of 3 and 4 link manufacturers put the flex joints on body side and the rubber joints frame side to keep the ride quality there. This is why I chose to do the same.
@@FMJeeping Ride quality in a Jeep? LOL. I changed the rubber one for a IRO flex joint on my Grand and it makes a big difference. My long arm 3 link was trashing a rubber one every 6 months. With flex joints on the other pivots one more didn't make a difference I could hear or feel.
@@charliedee9276 I agree. Larger more hd bushings or joints are the way to go. I killed 2 2" johnny joints in 1 yeah. I want to upgrade to a solid axle side mount and run heims instead.
ok, good video - very useful - so I plan to do the upper control arms once at a time to make is easier put the bolts back in place. Your thoughts ? Thanks.
Doing it one at a time should be fine. You will most likely not have to wrestle the axle nearly as much and as long as you don't whale on it. You will keep your pinion angle/caster. Go for it.
did you ever run into an issue doing them one at a time?
@@user-vn6wn2gi3z still planning to do the control arms - still too hot now
Did this improve steering also?
Unfortunately not enough to remember. It really just helped when braking.
What size bolts are those?
Not sure of the bolt size. It came with my 3 link kit. Sorry