On a finished toy box that was made with slightly thinner wood than normal, the screws holding the hinges came through the wood, causing not just a small hole but took out a little bit of the wood as well (less than 1/8" around the screw hole on the back side). Quite of the day, got a cup of coffee, sat down and started searching for solutions. BINGO!! Found your wonderful method of making your our colored wood putty. I can not THANK YOU enough for sharing your ideas and methods. Your video was very detail and explanatory. Tomorrow morning I am going to buy the right putty and get my mistake fixed.
Thank you so much! I'm an amateur wood worker who has been growing frustrated at the lack of decent products in the industry. You might want to consider opening an Amazon store. You can list the products you use and support in the 'store', and if anyone orders thru the store, you'll get a kick back. I like to order thru people's stores so they are supported and motivated to keep making informative videos.
thank you. This is exactly what I needed. At first I saw 14:20 minutes and groaned but it was very informative. It is nice to know there is a perfectionist out there.
Thanks for the corn starch tip. I have been coloring my putty this way for years but sometimes when you add a lot it gets to be a sticky mess. I'll try the corn starch next time.
You can also use paint tints, most paint shops will give you some at minimal cost all you will need is a few small container to put it in. Usually when colour matching putty all you will need is black, ochre and red oxide tint.
When I worked for a high end cabinet shop, to fix small blemishes, I used to carry one of those 100 pack of crayola crayons.....with that many colours you can easily fill small holes with exactly the right colour......
Muskoka Mike I did the same. I also used soft putty and epoxy in certain situations but the wax was the fastest and easiest. "Where you going with my crayons daddy?"... busted!
Brian Great, and very informative. In our home, we have stained hemlock trim, but the putty color selected is too light, and was applied BEFORE the clear finish, so the smears show. How might I cut out the too-light filler, and eliminate the "smear", refill with putty matched as your describe, and then apply a new clear finish?
Bayan: I would use either dry pigments or artists acrylics (available at any art supply store) The artist acrylics are going to be more concentrated than water-based paint. Best of luck.
If you use an S motion instead of pulling straight back you will get a better mix. I have a 10" X 3/4" thick round piece of glass I have been mixing bondo on for the last thirty years.
Did you make a video on the the epoxy you mention at the end. I wrapped some large structural beams in a house with 1" thick doug fir.Rough one side. I mitered and glued my mitres but As you can imagine when winter came along and heater turned on my miteres opened. These were very long boards some cupped, all very difficult to manage in the widths and sizes (talking 20 footers x 16") needless to say, there are a few spots where they run into brick and the gap is a 1/4 inch. Ive stained them with a greyish oil base Sherwood wiping stain from Sherwin Williams. Id like to see the epoxy in action to see if it wood work for me. I beleive the crawfords will work on mitres just be a yearly maintence maybe.
great video! I would like to do the same thing but for custom color painted kitchen cabinets. The cabinets are RTA Barker cabinets that will be painted at a cabinet paint shop with a custom benjamin moore color. They will be painted first and then installed so there will be nail holes in the trim pieces. The paint is a lacquered paint. Can i use a similar technique to fill the nail holes or do I need a different product? TIA
Thanks for the tips!. I'm refinishing my old dinning oak set and I like the color of the door you are working on, what color stain and products have you used to end with such a beautiful shade.
Thanks for the great video! I tested a small amount of this against/between my log beam and log supports inside my home approx. four months ago. It has stayed in place without cracking, etc. It would be nice if it could be purchased already colored. Do you have any tips for easier mixing of the colorant with a full quart of putty? I would in all likelihood purchase a quart of colorant instead of the tubes due to the amount. Thanks again. Ray 👍😊
That looks pretty good, however I'm staining & finishing my project with water based products. What would you use..? Also I have to fill some spaces between 2 different colors (I'm inlaying)
Can you apply this as a filler for baseboard trim that has already been finished and has clear coat on it? My concern is that the sheen will look much duller. Thanks! The best video on this topic!
Kristen: Yes you can apply over the clear coat. I prefer to have finish applied first so I can see what the wood looks like in it's finished state & also i want to fill just the nail hole & not get a putty smear in or around the nail hole. You are correct that the appearance will be slightly duller, so you would need to apply another coat of the clear finish, or try to just touch up the putty.
brian miller The baseboard has been finished and installed. So now I'm just trying to fill in the nail holes - which are pretty big because it was thick trim. The baseboard is a shinny finish. Just wanted to get your suggestions as to how to get the sheen so the dull putty doesn't stick out so much. Also, the board is very dark so even and premixed ebony putty isn't dark enough. This is why I thought your suggestion in coloring the putty might help me in getting it darker. Thanks!
Kristen Pryor You could also add a bit of mineral oil to the putty to bring up the sheen,also a lot of times you can just wipe the surface after applying the putty with mineral spirits (paint thinner) which takes away the smear around the holes.
+Kristen Pryor I know this is 2 years later but you can apply the gloss finish on top of the existing finish to bring the whole area up to the correct sheen. It isn't that difficult. One thing you WILL have to do though is slightly sand the whole board/piece of trim with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper (or sanding sponge) to remove the glass sheen..... Then you can apply a lacquer based or water based clear on top of the whole thing...... Just so you are aware, there are many ways to finish nail holes on pre-finished trim. There are lacquer blocks that you melt and apply with an artist's pallet knife that are available in various sheens that will match the gloss perfectly.....
I bought some TimberMate putty in the color ebony. But when it is used, it as a dark grey & clear coating it doesn't help the black get blacker. Can't seem to solve the problem...
Providing a link to the mentioned epoxy medium would be nice. I need to fill knot holes in my flooring and based on his closing remarks, the putty isn’t what I will need.
+Daveyhunter6 only if it is also oil based...you can't mix oil based paints with water based putties and vice versa..... what you can do is go to walmart or dollar stores and pick up acrylic based hobby paints which are water based if your putty is water based...makes for easy clean up too.....
On a finished toy box that was made with slightly thinner wood than normal, the screws holding the hinges came through the wood, causing not just a small hole but took out a little bit of the wood as well (less than 1/8" around the screw hole on the back side). Quite of the day, got a cup of coffee, sat down and started searching for solutions. BINGO!! Found your wonderful method of making your our colored wood putty. I can not THANK YOU enough for sharing your ideas and methods. Your video was very detail and explanatory. Tomorrow morning I am going to buy the right putty and get my mistake fixed.
Thank you so much! I'm an amateur wood worker who has been growing frustrated at the lack of decent products in the industry. You might want to consider opening an Amazon store. You can list the products you use and support in the 'store', and if anyone orders thru the store, you'll get a kick back. I like to order thru people's stores so they are supported and motivated to keep making informative videos.
Best presentation I’ve ssen
Very well presented video Brian, thank you. As a retired printer I must say that your colour matching skills are excellent!
thank you. This is exactly what I needed. At first I saw 14:20 minutes and groaned but it was very informative. It is nice to know there is a perfectionist out there.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I've struggled with putty for a very long time.
Thanks for the corn starch tip. I have been coloring my putty this way for years but sometimes when you add a lot it gets to be a sticky mess. I'll try the corn starch next time.
Looks great. Thank you!!!
You can also use paint tints, most paint shops will give you some at minimal cost all you will need is a few small container to put it in. Usually when colour matching putty all you will need is black, ochre and red oxide tint.
For a newbie like myself this is invaluable.
Very useful ever for a hobby woodworker. Clear presentation!
Can you provide product specific info for the colorant set?
VERY HELPFUL STUFF!
Thanks for sharing.
Very nice video
exactly what i was looking thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques mush appreciated
you guys are the best!! I wish you were making more video tips.
This may have been the best youtube video I found this week. Very helpful. Thank u 4 posting. A++++
When I worked for a high end cabinet shop, to fix small blemishes, I used to carry one of those 100 pack of crayola crayons.....with that many colours you can easily fill small holes with exactly the right colour......
Muskoka Mike I did the same. I also used soft putty and epoxy in certain situations but the wax was the fastest and easiest. "Where you going with my crayons daddy?"... busted!
Just what I needed to know! Thanks!
So helpful. Thanks
Great tip! I’ll be using this to remediate some chippy DougFir.
So helpful, thank you so much!
Funny. The Blacker House was owned by my uncle Max Hill from the 50's til his death in early 80's. Cool house.
Oil-based colorants are very concentrated, so you can achieve greater color depth
Brian Great, and very informative. In our home, we have stained hemlock trim, but the putty color selected is too light, and was applied BEFORE the clear finish, so the smears show. How might I cut out the too-light filler, and eliminate the "smear", refill with putty matched as your describe, and then apply a new clear finish?
Bayan: I would use either dry pigments or artists acrylics (available at any art supply store) The artist acrylics are going to be more concentrated than water-based paint. Best of luck.
Would adding a little bit of the stain have worked?
I have done it with other types of filler.
great video
Thanks for the tips This is good stuff.
If you use an S motion instead of pulling straight back you will get a better mix. I have a 10" X 3/4" thick round piece of glass I have been mixing bondo on for the last thirty years.
Very informative. Is it possible to get the putty to liquid consistency so it can be used as grain filler?
Did you make a video on the the epoxy you mention at the end. I wrapped some large structural beams in a house with 1" thick doug fir.Rough one side. I mitered and glued my mitres but As you can imagine when winter came along and heater turned on my miteres opened. These were very long boards some cupped, all very difficult to manage in the widths and sizes (talking 20 footers x 16") needless to say, there are a few spots where they run into brick and the gap is a 1/4 inch. Ive stained them with a greyish oil base Sherwood wiping stain from Sherwin Williams. Id like to see the epoxy in action to see if it wood work for me. I beleive the crawfords will work on mitres just be a yearly maintence maybe.
You’re working on glass or a cloth on top of the glass?
What is the cloth?
Brian, just seen your channel. What/how do you do raw wood(prior to stain and finish) no color???
Thanks Bruce
Can you show the effect you may get if you tried a color of great contrast to the finish?
sometimes i use the 3 primary colors red,yellow and black.
Excellent presentation..Thank you
With something like Durham's Water Putty, which do you think is best, using dry pigments or possibly mixing water based acrylic paint?
Was that oil base or acrylic paint pigments?
great video! I would like to do the same thing but for custom color painted kitchen cabinets. The cabinets are RTA Barker cabinets that will be painted at a cabinet paint shop with a custom benjamin moore color. They will be painted first and then installed so there will be nail holes in the trim pieces. The paint is a lacquered paint. Can i use a similar technique to fill the nail holes or do I need a different product? TIA
Thanks for the tips!. I'm refinishing my old dinning oak set and I like the color of the door you are working on, what color stain and products have you used to end with such a beautiful shade.
Excellent video. Thank you for the interesting information. X
Wood drywall mud work to if I added color to it
Thanks for the great video! I tested a small amount of this against/between my log beam and log supports inside my home approx. four months ago. It has stayed in place without cracking, etc. It would be nice if it could be purchased already colored. Do you have any tips for easier mixing of the colorant with a full quart of putty? I would in all likelihood purchase a quart of colorant instead of the tubes due to the amount. Thanks again. Ray 👍😊
Can you link to the paints? Is it just oil paint?
That looks pretty good, however I'm staining & finishing my project with water based products. What would you use..? Also I have to fill some spaces between 2 different colors (I'm inlaying)
Can you apply this as a filler for baseboard trim that has already been finished and has clear coat on it? My concern is that the sheen will look much duller. Thanks! The best video on this topic!
Kristen: Yes you can apply over the clear coat. I prefer to have finish applied first so I can see what the wood looks like in it's finished state & also i want to fill just the nail hole & not get a putty smear in or around the nail hole. You are correct that the appearance will be slightly duller, so you would need to apply another coat of the clear finish, or try to just touch up the putty.
brian miller
The baseboard has been finished and installed. So now I'm just trying to fill in the nail holes - which are pretty big because it was thick trim. The baseboard is a shinny finish. Just wanted to get your suggestions as to how to get the sheen so the dull putty doesn't stick out so much. Also, the board is very dark so even and premixed ebony putty isn't dark enough. This is why I thought your suggestion in coloring the putty might help me in getting it darker. Thanks!
Kristen Pryor You could also add a bit of mineral oil to the putty to bring up the sheen,also a lot of times you can just wipe the surface after applying the putty with mineral spirits (paint thinner) which takes away the smear around the holes.
+Kristen Pryor I know this is 2 years later but you can apply the gloss finish on top of the existing finish to bring the whole area up to the correct sheen. It isn't that difficult. One thing you WILL have to do though is slightly sand the whole board/piece of trim with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper (or sanding sponge) to remove the glass sheen.....
Then you can apply a lacquer based or water based clear on top of the whole thing......
Just so you are aware, there are many ways to finish nail holes on pre-finished trim. There are lacquer blocks that you melt and apply with an artist's pallet knife that are available in various sheens that will match the gloss perfectly.....
Where can you buy that putty
Do you have a video on applying stain and wood conditioner
THANKS!
what brand of clear finish should I use after I am done puttying?
Will this work for exterior?
i couldnt find where he says the colorant is oil or acrylic?? thanks..
wacthed 3x kept missing it!!
*watched
sigh
Are the craft paints acrylic or oil based?
I know this is an old comment, but it says "Oil" on the tubes he used.
Wouldn't it be easier and less wasteful to add the putty to the colour rather than the other way 'round?
is this too soft for a hardwood floor? my floor is matte/wax bamboo finish.
Just use the same stain as the substrate, and knead the stain into the painters puddy.
You would think that would work but it doesn't.
Escapee!!! :)
This video has as many views as the channel has subscribers.
.
Also, why is this in my recommended?
8 punchlist items removed!
why can't you use a gel stain of the same color?
At 1:30 Brian mentions it's a oil medium. Thanks for your question and for watching.
Was this putty varnish chalk based?
I bought some TimberMate putty in the color ebony. But when it is used, it as a dark grey & clear coating it doesn't help the black get blacker. Can't seem to solve the problem...
Providing a link to the mentioned epoxy medium would be nice. I need to fill knot holes in my flooring and based on his closing remarks, the putty isn’t what I will need.
This is not how to "make your own colored wood putty" but rather how to buy a commercial product and color it.
Great tips, thanks!
could I add the oil paint to the already colored wood putty in the small jar?
+Daveyhunter6 only if it is also oil based...you can't mix oil based paints with water based putties and vice versa.....
what you can do is go to walmart or dollar stores and pick up acrylic based hobby paints which are water based if your putty is water based...makes for easy clean up too.....