I absolutely love that you all have published files and PDFs AND sell as well. This is the perfect juncture of opensource ideas and capitalist options. Bravo!
Thank you! That is the goal. I am not ashamed to make money if I'm offering something of value, but I also don't like things that artificially raise the barrier to entry. JB
Excellent tutorial. It was so simple to assemble and your explanation of what each part does made for confident understanding of how to spin on the wheel and adjust and modify parts. I moved the entire assembly to the front of the H shaped base and added another small block for the foot pedals, making treadling more comfortable for me and others using it. I do appreciate that you have graciously made the plans available, too. Thank you.
So excited to get mine and finally learn to spin, thank you for giving us noobs an option that is reasonable in price!! Been waiting years and years to start learn how to spin!
I literally put mine together last night! I had a hard time finding the right aluminum tubing so I designed and printed that bobbin tube, seems to work ok
if only i could upload a pic or my current spin on this wheel. it's my first wheel ever, so of course it was awkward to start, but i'm really getting the hang of it now and it's an awesome wheel!
Have just over a dozen more pieces to print, but have gotten most of the berings installed (One of my remaning pieces is the hub.) A long time ago I worked out that the best way to get a 608 berring pressed square into a part with a through hole for it, is to grabe a 5/16 bolt long enough to go through all parts, a couple of flat washers (not ferring, though for some things those may be better) and a nut. The advantage for me is that I'm not swinging a hammer at or near anything that may not handle the shock well. (Some of the older PLA was like that, Tough PLA is a bit better.) But the other advantage is that if you are squeezing a bearing in between a pair of washers threaded onto a bolt, or all thread, the nut and bolt head against the washers will mean that you're driving that berring in square to the axis it should turn on. Again, it may not matter here. But of it matters, there's a technique that may give better results. (And you don't need a hydrolic press for any of this. 🙂 Getting there. This is really my second attempt at printing this. The first time I ended up having problems with bed adhesion. PETG just wasn't working. I may be able to go back to that, I think part of the problem was that I later found the tension on the extruder was way off. (loose) so I don't think it was pushing enough filament through for the first layer, so I ended up with the first layer ending up so thin, there were problems later. Again, will try again later. Printing the hardware in silver PLA+, including the hub hub, hex arm, and everything that uses a bearing, braces and the flyer. Remaining wheel segments will be 2 green, and 3 blue tough PLA. Also one pedal in each color. I'll see if I can get a couple of pictures of the final result.
I bought your treadle flyer and bobbin and am really impressed with the construction and durability. I think I really would like to order the rest of your kit minus the flyer and bobbins if possible.
Is there no way to adjust the tension of the driveband? I believe modern wheels usually have a way of adjusting the position of the mother of all so you can tie the driveband with it closer, then move it out to keep it taut
Regardless of the colors the spokes are printed in for the wheel, they are the same part right? I could print them all in the same color and nothing would change?
This is fantastic, and I've already bookmarked your kit on Etsy. One question, is there a way to make it quieter? Parts that can be oiled to reduce the noise or something similar?
I think so, but I'll have to play with it to find out what helps the most. I think it's likely most of the noise could be fixed by adding grease to the axel before mounting the bobbin. JB
Is there a trick to making the spokes fit around the middle? I printed everything on my Ender 3 in Inland filament, but once I've got five pegs in, there's a quarter inch gap between the last two edges. Tried reprinting 3 of the spokes, but no luck.
I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out the tension, and I'm not sure if it's because I've put something together wrong or what. My options on the flyer seem to be that it completely spins free or it stops entirely, no in-between, and I can't get it to take up the fiber. Any suggestions for how to fix this? I'm only making very slight adjustments to the brake band.
I'd suggest adding a little grease to the fork that the flyer rests in. I like to use coconut oil. That should open up a range of tensions between zero and one. JB
I realize it's hard to find instruction on an Irish tension wheel. Do you have experience on a Scottish tension? If so, the difference is that the flyer on this wheel is driven by the fiber load, and that's where the twist happens. If no wheel experience at all: try pre-drafting, don't pull, and just feed slowly when the twist feels right at your feeding fingers. Don't move your feet fast on the treadles. I started as a "heavy metal" treadler and omg lol. Sometimes when I have more single than my arm length, I hold the flyer still and just wind on to prevent curlies. I know that all sounds weird, so watch a few videos on general wheel spinning to see what I'm talking about.
I absolutely love that you all have published files and PDFs AND sell as well. This is the perfect juncture of opensource ideas and capitalist options. Bravo!
Thank you! That is the goal. I am not ashamed to make money if I'm offering something of value, but I also don't like things that artificially raise the barrier to entry. JB
Excellent tutorial. It was so simple to assemble and your explanation of what each part does made for confident understanding of how to spin on the wheel and adjust and modify parts. I moved the entire assembly to the front of the H shaped base and added another small block for the foot pedals, making treadling more comfortable for me and others using it.
I do appreciate that you have graciously made the plans available, too. Thank you.
So excited to get mine and finally learn to spin, thank you for giving us noobs an option that is reasonable in price!! Been waiting years and years to start learn how to spin!
Also love how compact it is! I have very limited space and need something that doesn't occupy too much room when not in use. Great design!
I literally put mine together last night! I had a hard time finding the right aluminum tubing so I designed and printed that bobbin tube, seems to work ok
That's awesome! JB
Can I get the files?
Ohhhhh... they spin at different speeds and the leather strap slows down the other section.. I finally get it. Jesus thank you
if only i could upload a pic or my current spin on this wheel. it's my first wheel ever, so of course it was awkward to start, but i'm really getting the hang of it now and it's an awesome wheel!
This is awesome. Great engineering and really great that it got "open sourced" too ^^
Have just over a dozen more pieces to print, but have gotten most of the berings installed (One of my remaning pieces is the hub.) A long time ago I worked out that the best way to get a 608 berring pressed square into a part with a through hole for it, is to grabe a 5/16 bolt long enough to go through all parts, a couple of flat washers (not ferring, though for some things those may be better) and a nut. The advantage for me is that I'm not swinging a hammer at or near anything that may not handle the shock well. (Some of the older PLA was like that, Tough PLA is a bit better.) But the other advantage is that if you are squeezing a bearing in between a pair of washers threaded onto a bolt, or all thread, the nut and bolt head against the washers will mean that you're driving that berring in square to the axis it should turn on. Again, it may not matter here. But of it matters, there's a technique that may give better results. (And you don't need a hydrolic press for any of this. 🙂
Getting there. This is really my second attempt at printing this. The first time I ended up having problems with bed adhesion. PETG just wasn't working. I may be able to go back to that, I think part of the problem was that I later found the tension on the extruder was way off. (loose) so I don't think it was pushing enough filament through for the first layer, so I ended up with the first layer ending up so thin, there were problems later. Again, will try again later. Printing the hardware in silver PLA+, including the hub hub, hex arm, and everything that uses a bearing, braces and the flyer. Remaining wheel segments will be 2 green, and 3 blue tough PLA. Also one pedal in each color. I'll see if I can get a couple of pictures of the final result.
बहुत बढ़िया भाई साहब जी
i'm just finished mine, with a little changes, it is awesome
Absolutely stunning
I'd kill for you to do a tutorial video on how to use this wheel. Step by step would be awesome!!
Coming soon! JB
@@GoodandBasic YEEEEHHHAAAWWWWW
I too would love a tutorial video having never spun on any wheel. That is needed now.
Thank you, this is a wonderful thing you have done.
You guys are just amazing
I bought your treadle flyer and bobbin and am really impressed with the construction and durability. I think I really would like to order the rest of your kit minus the flyer and bobbins if possible.
Than you! Send a message on Etsy and we can arrange that. JB
@@GoodandBasic I sure will thank you!
Gostei logo vou comprar uma
Does the wood come pre-cut and pre-drilled? If not, what are the dimensions and where to drill holes?
In the kit on Etsy, the wood is pre cut and pre drilled. I also have a PDF on thingiverse with the dimensions. JB
Interested in one of these spinning wheel
Hay just wondering the plastic parts and bearing is that a kit you bought or did you use a 3 D printer 🖨..
Is there no way to adjust the tension of the driveband? I believe modern wheels usually have a way of adjusting the position of the mother of all so you can tie the driveband with it closer, then move it out to keep it taut
Not for this one. You just retie the knot on the band. JB
Honestly it’s so interesting to see this build. Were the plastic pieces 3D printed?
Yes. I designed them myself and am currently selling the kit on Etsy. JB
So dang cool!!!
Regardless of the colors the spokes are printed in for the wheel, they are the same part right? I could print them all in the same color and nothing would change?
All except the pivot spoke. JB
This is fantastic, and I've already bookmarked your kit on Etsy. One question, is there a way to make it quieter? Parts that can be oiled to reduce the noise or something similar?
I think so, but I'll have to play with it to find out what helps the most. I think it's likely most of the noise could be fixed by adding grease to the axel before mounting the bobbin. JB
Is there a trick to making the spokes fit around the middle? I printed everything on my Ender 3 in Inland filament, but once I've got five pegs in, there's a quarter inch gap between the last two edges. Tried reprinting 3 of the spokes, but no luck.
Any tips or tricks to make it a little quieter while spinning? Leather washers in a few places perhaps?
Just a little grease in the bobbin tube and in the fork that the orifice rests in does wonders. JB
@@GoodandBasic Thanks, printing my first parts right now!
I just got the kit. Thanks. I thought it came with a driveband. .
Send me a message on Etsy and I'll make sure you get one. JB
What dimension should I use for the bearings! I have everything ready to go except am very confused about to how find or make the bearings
They are skateboard bearings. You can find them on Amazon
Hey there! I just bought one of your wheels. So excited! Quick question.. does your kit contain the wood pieces in your tutorial?
Yes. JB
What size are the bearings? The PDF just says, "bearings" burn doesn't give a specific type / size.
I should probably update that. They're skateboard bearings.
I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out the tension, and I'm not sure if it's because I've put something together wrong or what. My options on the flyer seem to be that it completely spins free or it stops entirely, no in-between, and I can't get it to take up the fiber. Any suggestions for how to fix this? I'm only making very slight adjustments to the brake band.
I'd suggest adding a little grease to the fork that the flyer rests in. I like to use coconut oil. That should open up a range of tensions between zero and one. JB
@@GoodandBasic Awesome, thanks, I'll give it a try!
just having issues with the flyer actually spinning with it.
Teach us how to use it aswell?
Absolutely. I'll add that to the roster. JB
I realize it's hard to find instruction on an Irish tension wheel. Do you have experience on a Scottish tension? If so, the difference is that the flyer on this wheel is driven by the fiber load, and that's where the twist happens. If no wheel experience at all: try pre-drafting, don't pull, and just feed slowly when the twist feels right at your feeding fingers. Don't move your feet fast on the treadles. I started as a "heavy metal" treadler and omg lol. Sometimes when I have more single than my arm length, I hold the flyer still and just wind on to prevent curlies. I know that all sounds weird, so watch a few videos on general wheel spinning to see what I'm talking about.
uaw! nice!
Mine cracked from building the wheel 😓
Send me a message on Etsy. JB
Kemat Kya hei