Your videos are allways so long and full of information, amazing how you havent run out of content to show on SNS yet Love your vids, this comes from a learning machinist
As a teen I started setting every spare cent aside for good teaching books and top of the line tools. It took 5 years to fill my home built tool chest. At 58 I still have many of those tools and I clean and lightly oil them every use and put them back. And they still work like new. Rule #1. Tools are like your (work) wife. You treat them well and you don’t loan them to your buddies.
I bought my Central Tools calipers in '74. Couldn't afford one with the dial. I used them as an auto mechanic until my health gave up in 2016. I would have loved to have something better but it served me well. Love the way you teach Adam, fantastic videos.
Great objective comparison between high end and budget measuring tools. I appreciate the fact that you stated that the import tooling would get the job done, but it was simply your preference to buy and use the premium tooling.
Lovely people, Adam and Abi. Thank you for sharing a little of your lives with us. The world could do with a lot more people like you. Thanks for the tool comparisons too, there is some shocking stuff from China but also some that is worth it's salt. I guess the trick is to check it out carefully when it arrives
Such a blessing to have reasonably cheap land and have your own shop. I'm a US Citizen but I've been living in AU for 20 years, we have THE MOST expensive real estate in the world, the avg. home in the city (which is where everybody lives, there's little sustaining work anywhere else) costs over $1,000,000 (Approx. US $700,000). That's at an average, you cannot find a home like yours but 40 miles out of town, and at that you'd be looking at over $800,000+, if you want an acre or two where you can set up and settle in its just unaffordable unless you can find some way to make it work in the country. Real estate's really a huge problem here, largely because of mass immigration and a lack of houses the housing price just continues to go up and never down, which means its not only a safe investment but the standard investment and with a decent return - Everybody becomes a landlord and that pushes up the price further. What that also means is that if you have a business that's not as safe of an investment or offers as good of a return in Australia, you don't have that business, it doesn't exist. No one will put money in it if they can just buy a house or an apartment or 10 and rent it out to some chinese 'university students'. Land is everything, I make do right now with a storage unit, about as large as a large car, with a foot on either side and a maybe 2 foot front and rear. Which costs $500/month and is so cramped it makes every job take at least 3x as long. Land is everything and if you've got it you should remember this and give thanks to God often for His blessings.
My biggest item on measuring tools is repeat-ability. If you are making parts for repair work using the old part as reference it really doesn't matter what tools you use as long as you use the same tool for the measurements and the tool repeats well. Now if you are machining to a print you want to be sure the tools are accurate.
Good job on that tool comparison. Clearly for a guy just starting out, those imports will measure far closer than his skills will get him, so it's a good low cost starting point and may help to bring more young guys into the machining trade.
Glad to learn you are taking time to be with Abby. All work and no play... as they say. The new building addition sounds great. I like my new Abom t shirt. Nicely designed and made. I used inexpensive calipers when I ran abrasive jet cutters. Sooner or later they got garnet into the rack and were toast and measurements were usually +/- 0.001.
Great video Adam, as always. In my 25 years in the machining business, i have found that the cheap calipers will get the job done (like you said) but they just don't last like the Starrett or Mitutoyo do in every day use. The expensive tools can take the odd "whoops" here and there. I purchased some Moore & Wright inside and outside mic's from a retired teacher 15 years ago and those things are built like tanks ! They will be around forever. Starrett are the same. You get what you pay for. As for your shop upgrade, right on man, congrats. Looking forward to seeing it come together. A word of warning though, just look at Keith Rucker…he built that big new shop, and now he can't stop filling it with machines !! Its an addiction I guess. Anyway…cheers from Hamilton, Ontario. Mike.
So I've been a machinist for about 26 years now and I've run expensive and cheap calipers just the same. My thoughts on this is as long as the cheap ones measure correctly. 001 = .001 I run with the cheap ones consistently and figure that they are a consumable. If starrett are $200 and the cheap ones are $20. If you plan on a lifespan of 2 years for the starrett calipers, you could open a brand new set of cheap calipers every 3 months and at the end of the 2 years you are opening the last of the cheap calipers or you could be using a 2 year old set of calipers. Considering all calipers hit the floor at some time. You don't cry as bad when the cheap ones hit the ground. Just my thoughts.
Back when I worked in a Calibration lab we used to jokingly call vernier calipers Very-Nears, because as you said, they get you very close but for absolute precision a micrometer has to be used.
Yeah parralax error on the vernier scales is a issue, that's why i use dial calipers myself.IIRC when my eyes were younger i didnt have as much of a problem, i cant really use them now anymore for anything approaching accuracy. One thing i refuse to use is digital! Floating scales that can be slipped, easily knock your zero and they always seem to go flat when you really need them! I refuse to use them.
Nice presentation. Way back when I bought a Craftsman 6 dial caliper. I know somebody in the metrology lab so I asked him to give them a quick look. He did and explained why he took readings at 90 degree intervals around the dial. It seems a common problem was an off center pivot pin that would result in a small error. Something worth knowing if you are calibrating dial calipers.
On the construction end if you know you plan to add the 3-phase power at least have the conduit run and when you are ready to pull the trigger then have the wire run and outlets and hook up at the panel. This a very common practice to do.
I have both and what I've found is that it is relative if you start a project measuring with a Hopsing mic stay with it. where I've ran into trouble is switching back and forth. great video. thanks for sharing.
Straight out of the new bag. You test the slide friction. You didn't touch the lock break. Failed TEST. Ultimately the FEEL is critical. Thanks for the video.
I worked in Ocean Springs a few years ago a d was there during the time they were hosting Cruising the Coast car event. It's definitely something you want to attend if you like cars - classics, modern, customs, etc. If you ever make it back, check out Pleasant's BBQ on Government Street. Imo, their BBQ a d regular menu food, is way better than The Shed.
This goes back to the early '80s but I worked for an Industrial supply company. We got some of the first Mitutoyo digital calipers. Unfortunately the earlier versions had an etched glass encoder strip. Worked great until the first time somebody dropped it into a toolbox.Wish I had kept the one that lived in my desk...
I hate cheap tools, I try to buy secondhand vintage tools off ebay and they are always superior while being fractionally more expensive. I do use a cheap set of 12" calipers however. When I need more precisce calipers I will buy a mitutoyo aos 0-6. The tools that save me the most time and headache in the shop are keytools (stamped steel klein SAE, Metric & Torx set, plastic is expensive garbage), and my knipex wrench. My most used piece of equipment is an electronic headset like that worn by shooters. Its just a normal set of muffs except lower profile and they have a microphone connected to speakers inside that allow you to turn them on to hear things. The speakers cannot replay sounds louder than 86 or so decibels. They are far superior to plugs or dead muffs. The nice thing about any muffs is that you can press your earmuff to the toolpost handle and hear the tool touch the workpiece very crisply before you see or hear anything.
Yeah.....I've had jobs doing welding and machining, they don't mix well....any grinding or welding is just awful contamination....surprises how many guys here grind and weld right in the middle of the shop....where they're assembling engines/motors and stuff....
One thing to consider Adam.... keep your best tool bit grinder in the machine shop. From a wood workers stand point, the less travel you make in dis-assembly, the better. I am not saying don't get your grinding out of the machine shop. but.... keep your tool bit grinder easily accessible. You can thank me later. :) A shop is like a kitchen, think triangle :)
Calipers are great for guesstimating, kinda like the all/16th’s Crescent wrench. They work best for putting you in the ballpark. I’ve watched guys use calipers and push them or feather them to get whatever number they are seeking. Thanks for the video
Thumbs up on having the shop space all done and finished. Consider moving that entry door to the new wall.Consider adding a proper shop sink hung on the wall to the new bathroom - I think this is something you will be glad to have.
An older post yet well in tune still with things this day. Starrett or Brown & Sharp are first choice. Everything else is a disposal type grade. Yet still quite usable reasonable good quality to have unless you can step up and get the better tools.
The Starretts have dual gears but no protective cover. I always set them down with the dial down so chips don't fall into the rack. Once I broke one of the gears and sent it back to Starrett. When I got them back they had a new bezel that was not so scratched but they failed to fix the real problem, assuming that all that was wrong was the scratched up bezel.They did not even check to see if they actually worked before returning them to me.
Thanks for the video's. Adam. You might consider putting in the conduits for the three phase power even though you are not going to install the wiring right now. Once the conduits are in you can install the wiring at will.
True, but we kept the cost to a price point I was looking for so I had to eliminate the 3 phase. We will run a whole new line out there for three phase, once I pick the locations of the machines. No worries.
I used dial calipers (Tesa, Brown & Sharp) for 30 years then went digital and never looked back. I currently use the coolant proof Mitutoyo 8" digital, about $200. Use micrometers for anything closer than .001".
Most of my measurements are slip fit and "close enough" for welding purposes. Or measurements on tubing and selection of drill bits, as some dont have a drill index to go into and reside in my drill bit tray on the stand
Cool, yall was right down the road from me. I live just few minutes away from Stennis, in Picayune. Haven't been there on my free time since i was a child.
Hi Adam, as a hobby machinist I really like your videos - full of informative tips from a professional. I worked for 6 years in Metrology and it was all about calibration and traceability. Micrometers and callipers were regularly checked using higher grade slip gauges, which themselves were checked. Maybe the cheaper tools will lose their accuracy sooner? Time will tell although a good quality tool is a joy to use. Keep the videos coming!
I am just starting out working with metal making knives. I use digital calipers and micrometers because of eyesight issues. I probably should breakdown and buy bifocals but that would mean less money for tools. Another great video Abom79
Hey Adam.... Finally bought myself a Noga mini for my shop on your advice back on one of your vids. Goota say.... what a game changer for me!! All those other holders just didn't make the cut, so they came on sale at KBC, so I got one. Thanks man! It is worth the investment for a great quality tool. I have to agree on buying want you can afford to get your shop up and working so you can get to machining.
You spoke of how tight the caliper movement is, but that's fully adjustable. It's not factory set. There are 2 adjustment screws for friction on the top surface. Friction is adjustable, what matters in quality is that whatever friction you set is consistent across the full length.
Fowler, just like Mitutoyo, has tools from a number of countries. So does my favorite, Brown and Sharp. But I also have some cheap tools. I have the exact same Chinese calipers, except with a white dial. The difference is that I bought it 36 years ago. I bought it for my company, because the good tools kept disappearing. It’s amazing that this tool is still in perfect condition, and remains accurate.
Great video Adam. I also echo some that you said the less expensive work, however like you said, they are new and not used for many years. I have some Harbor Fright dial calipers I used when rebuilding an engine. I have since watching your videos have started to buy Starrett tools. My first purchases were tap holders. What a difference in quality. The cheapo holders that come in sets just don't hold the taps. I'm also looking for Greenfield die holders. I even found an old set of drill bits that I'm going to practice sharpening. Thanks for your video's and allowing us into your busy life with work and Elaina. The new enclosure will be awesome!
+Aaron Belknap The quality tools are just nice to have, use, and feel good in the hands. Congrats on your Starrett upgrades! The old drills are usually a good high quality cutting tool. Just FYI, Elena and I have been divorced for a couple years now and have gone separate directions.
Foot in mouth (or fingers). Sorry about you and Elena. I didn't know. I've been watching the SNS series and not quite caught up. Anyways. Been searching Ebay for Starrett stuff. Good drills are a must. I currently use cobalt steel drill bits. Anyways, great video's. I've learned a lot.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 Might have been fine a factory, and came loose during shipping. I suppose they could use thread fastener. As a consumer I'm okay verifying or assembling products before usage...especially if it costs me less.
The wife and I went paddle boarding at that bridge there in ocean springs. We go to Biloxi every September and make a day trip to Pensacola. Have to meet up with Abom some time.
I have to say you seem to have perfected the audio and video. Of the 40 or so subscriptions I have (yes I know) I think you have the best quality of all of them. Whatever you have done to get rid of wind noise in your outdoor videos is great. Keep up the good work.Oh, and Abbey (sp?) did a great job too. Nice and smooth and steady.
If the material storage is gong to be mounted to the wall, and you want low impact into the space, what about building a metal frame so it gets included in the wall cavity, all that you see would be holes in the wall that are threaded, if in the future you move, you can simply unbolt and fill the holes. Wood wall studs can be fixed to each side of the metal to provide fixings for the cladding etc. It's no different to providing a wood block in the wall ready for hanging heavier items in the house, like a sink, but this is heavy duty Abom style :D
Adam, I was born and raised in Mobile,Alabama , and during my Navy tour was fortunate to be stationed in Pensacola and Milton ,Fl. Just wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed your recent gulf coast videos.Keep up the good work !!!
Adam, I can't remember which video it was but you shared the brand of orange gloves you use.I ordered some from Amazon and was very pleased with them so I posted a little Instagram video thanking you. If you have time sometime and need a good laugh check out the video my Instagram handlei hamlertools69
You hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that the $15.00 callipers were unused and I am sure that with a bit of use in a work situation it may not be so accurate. Gets what you pay for !!
The nice thing about the 120A Starrett that you don't see on other calipers is that you can pull the 4 screws and you now have access to clean the drive gear and rack. Most of the others you have to run your head through the crud and off the tail to clean the rack and drive gear.
Something I found , The Starrett Global & Made in USA both as well as the Flower & Brown & Sharps are all very subseptable to jumping teeth in production work in the shop to chips getting in the rack. However the made in china and Mitutoyos both seem to be more of a lawn mowers over chips and such and tend not to jump teeth as often so the Starrets and others are more of a inspection room tool more then a in production tool. 80% of the time I use the cheap China brand calipers in the shop ( at work ) to get parts to with in .010 then use bore gauges or mic's to get parts dead nut's as if the China calipers get dropped hard, you only out 15 bucks . You drop a set of them big money USA Starrets or Brown & Sharps , that makes for a VERY bad day, and yes I have done that . The fact is you do get use to the feel of the cheap China calipers if you use them everyday all the time . However overall , I like the Miutoyo Calipers the best as well .
I know it would be a major pain to move the blast cabinet into the new area, away from the machines especially the Monarch, but in my humble opinion would be well worth it. I have worked in numerous shops with blast cabinets including my own and have yet to find one without blast media on every surface close to the cabinet, has to be hard on machines. Love all your videos. Very happy and proud to have just received my new "shop life" pocket tee.
I am giving serious thoughts to sell it so that I have more room in the back. I'd rather not even move it into the other side. It's way bigger then what i need, but a real nice machine!
At 16:33 Adam pulls out his grandfather's Starrett stainless steel #1230 micrometer, which is still made, and available as I type this, from Starrett for a mere $326.00. As I type I have NOT watched the video so I do not know if it does better than the $15 Chinese micrometer.
All my new tools and tooling are from shars and i like them.. especially my micrometer set... they arent as smooth as starrett but they work great for me.
I always say that if you take care of your tools they will last you long time. Most of my tools are Mitutoyo and Starrett but I still have Chinese OD mic set 0-12" that I use almost every day for the past 12 years and it works perfectly.
The friction thimble on the Mic should be adjustable as to tension. I bought 5 used Quality Mics for $45. After cleaning, and minor calibration on two, using Mitutoyo mic standards, they are all within one tenth. 2 Scherr-Tumico 3 Brown&Sharp.
Shop addition will be awesome Adam! I think I'm more excited than you are! I too have come to the point where I need to expand which I never thought would be needed. It will be nice having the separation of welding/grinding from your machines keeping the grit off of them. I always have to cover my machines before doing any grinding which is a real pain to do every time. A nice slab out front connecting it all will be a nice touch to finish it all off as well as very useful. This will make for interesting content as well as give me some ideas for my addition. Your new camera person does very well also! Great job both of you!
Adam, A suggestion for the new shop wiring, Run a sub-main cable to a new fuseboard, Then circle the room with 3x3" steel trunking a foot or so down from the ceiling and use conduit drops for switches and outlets etc. It might seem a bit extravagant at the outset, but, you end up with a neat and very easily adaptable electrical installation, Best wishes, J.
Adam: It was nice to meet you at the Bar-Z. Hope you, Keith and Tom liked the yellow t-shirts. As you live in Florida, consider getting an ex-racing Greyhound. I've had 5 and they have all been great members of my family. Have 2 now. They are 23 hour a day couch potatoes only needing 1 hour of exercise, which should be easy. Jon
I would recommend that you get spray foam 1" thick before the other insulation goes in, it really helps seal up the airflow. Of course if you are going with metal for the siding they may use the rolls of insulation that goes on before the metal which makes it hard to do the spray foam. Also, you may want to stick the air compressor back outside in its own little roofed area, they tend to get loud inside a sealed room; or you could flip flop the compressor with the bathroom and have them frame the compressor to be outside under the roof you have now. Changing the electric for that isn't that terribly bad, same for the re-plumbing the air lines.
Adam great news on the expansions, you have more Space to move around equipment which seems to add more capacity from extra room. It clears the mind to focus better on the customer's job. It will fill up quick and the kind of go getter you are you will be adding on again before you know it. Tom makes great use of his space and that is good because if anyone visits the extra space can be very good,he works so fast that in cramped spaces he may accdentaly clamp or church us right up! At least it would be good work! ;)
Years ago I had a cheap dial bore gauge. It had .0005" graduation marks on the dial face. I used it when sizing Harley-Davidson cylinders. The factory allows .0002" max out of round and taper. Probably about 20 years ago I bought a Mitutoyo dial bore gauge, with graduation marks of .0001". When I compared my old cheapo to the Mitutoyo, it was not really true to .0005". Junk. It probably made me better at final honing cylinders, but it also no doubt caused me to unknowingly put out a product that was not in the tolerances I thought I was holding. So maybe a guy can get away with cheap Chinese measurement tools for fun, but if you have to hold a tight tolerance for real - on a customer's work, save your money, and buy the good stuff. Otherwise your customer isn't getting what he paid for. You are only as accurate as your worst measurement tool. My two cents. Gimme that sandwich!
Bought a modern General micrometer from a hardware store on a late Saturday night. The anvils were not parallel :-/ probably about 2 thousands of an inch out... I should have checked it in the store and possibly got the second micrometer off the peg. No matter the brand and country of origin when we buy tools, we should be careful that they are defect free. Often the corners cut are in quality control or materials. The only good thing about the General is that it is the beater micrometer if its a dirty job.
another great weekend.My daughter just got more viewer mail so she is super excited which make me happy and then I see SNS pop up in my notifications and bam now I am even happier Thanks Adam
I'll use calipers to measure close to the final dimension (say within a few thou), at which point I switch to a micrometer, so I don't see the point in spending £200 on a pair of calipers. I prefer to spend £20 on a cheap pair of calipers, and put the other £180 toward a really good set of micrometers.
You'd still be better off getting a quality set with a Vernier scale (OK, bit more than 20, but still in that region) than something built to be cheap if you don't mind the lack of digital display. More rigid, more reliable, better feel - generally a pleasure to use in comparison. You'll be surprised how much money people charge to add another failure mode to a system (in this case - batteries)
233kosta Most people don’t realize that old school vernier scale calipers are more accurate than dial calipers. There’s a lack of knowledge about what the vernier scale is and how it allows measurement to 1/1000th.
Might make more sense to put the HVAC near the middle of the long wall for more even distribution. Maybe one of those Japanese split units would keep the hole smaller. Might need one for the main shop after you enclose the one in the window now.
Adam I used white metal roofing for the ceiling in my new shop put conduit on the outside for lights easy fast instalation just fasten to rafters something to think about mike
Great stuff Adam and you are right, to each their own. OTOH unless you are a tool and die maker 1/10 of a thou (throughout the entire range) = repeat-ability)) is MORE than good enough for someone working out of their garage.
I have plenty of cheap import tools that I use for rough work such as measuring on casting or mill scale surfaces. Also they make great tools to leave at a machine full time for rough measuring as they are very affordable and good enough for a few thousands and you don't mind so much if the get dropped or go missing. Also they make great loaners if you work with a bunch of 'those' kind of people. I recommend a half A frame against the wall. If you make it well and then tie the top to the wall with some leg bolts you can keep it really low profile and maximize you space. I Made mine from 1 1/2" .188" wall square tube with 3' centers and it's 6' tall and the base is 1' wide and it isn't even tied to the wall and it never wobbles even when loading/unloading 3" bar with the fork, mind you it's got several thousand pounds of material on it most of the time so that helps. On the bathroom, put the toilet in a stall and then get your self a nice big wash tub sink with a drain tray built in on the outside. If I wasn't in a leased building I would have ripped out the sinks out of my bathrooms, moved the walls and installed a big tub sink and drain tray.
I liked everything about this video especially the comparisons, I also think that if you're using import tools they're great for just Knockaround but as Precision Tools even calipers aren't useful. at my job I use cheap calipers from Harbor Freight all the time they tend to get broke pretty often but I keep my precision tools for when I really need a close tolerance. great job appreciate the watch.
Congrats on the shop build/expansion and looking forward to the build! Sounds like you have a good plan in mind, whatever the quote is it will run over budget as the project progresses, take it from me, my build started at 40K and looking close to 65K to finish and that's still with open walls and ceiling! Great video buddy, keep them coming!
Yikes! Ray for 50K i could put up a nice big new metal building. I decided to start small and make use of the floor space I have now and see where that leads me. I'd like to also build another covered area on the back of my house for BBQ's and socials.
A metal building would have been much cheaper but was not allowed in my neighborhood. I am glad you have something to build onto, that will save you a little there but the restroom and plumbing will be a nice chunk of cash! I started with dirt and yes concrete is crazy expensive, my slab was 11K and lumber was 10K. I plan on doing a complete cost breakdown video after the shop is complete, I think many will be shocked at the cost involved to build here!
I have had some of those Chinese micrometers , they wore out with in a few months, i buy second hand starrett mics now , they are much better quality .The last starrett mic i bought from ebay cost me $16 including freight and it works perfectly
I'm not sure it matters if the the resistance is light, in the friction thimble. If you zero it, having closed the mic using the friction thimble, then all measurements will be consistent, provided your friction resistance remains the same.
Make provision for natural light to enter the new shop. Too many 'man caves' have no windows and then have strip lights installed to try to get back what was shut out.
my last ebay purchase was 10 of the calipers you reviewed. I put one at each location in my shop where I might need it and the remaining are spares. I sold all my high end stuff. they're not worth worrying about. what do I care about how they look or feel, as you said, the cheap ones do the job.
I'm just a hobbyist wrench monkey, I most bought a set of calipers for reloading ammunition, but I find myself using them for all kinds of things since, like measuring bolts and comparing to drill sizes for more accurate hole drilling, for scoring a quick line 6 inch from an edge of sheet metal, measuring inner diameters of holes, output shafts of electric motors, engine parts, all sorts. Mine are cheap electric ones off amazon, I was using them at one point in the rain on my jeep this winter and accidently left them outside in the street... they were run over, the battery self ejected I thought it was over... put the battery back in and to my shock still worked...
sometimes you can be suprised, i needed an ac power drill as my usual one was too heavy for some work (need two hands to bring it up to horizontal etc) and didnt have the money for a good one (i usually buy bosch tools) so bought a chinese one at a supermarketm thinking, if it lasts a year (it has a 1 year warranty) i can save for a better one and keep an eye on deals, i did buy a better one, but 17 years later the chinese one is still running, its on its 3rd set of brushes (which are only £1 for 4 sets from china!) and still works great, ive not needed to use the bosch one i bought
Great news on the shop expansion Adam! I'm in the process of building my own shop, a month ago I finished the concrete floor, and I'm moving all my machinery and doing the electrical right now. Very exciting times! Congrats my friend!
For 0-1" I have a Starrett 1230 that didn't have the tenth's drum so I ordered one from Starrett and put on it for around $15, I keep it back for when I really want to make sure I have an accurate measurement. I also have an SPI that reads to tenths that I use as a general mic and it feels as good as the Starrett BUT the only thing I don't like about it is that it's ratchet is way light like the Chinese mic you have there, I need to try to see if a Mit. mic ratchet will fit it. All my mics are used that I have bought over time off of ebay and I have up to 6", they are either Starrett, B&S or Mit. with the exception of the one SPI. As far as calipers go I want to get a Mit. but I have been using a digital Harbor Freight special that I have owned for at least 15 years and it still works fine, it only measures to half tenths and a bit iffy at that but to be honest my lathe and MY skills aren't going to hit to the tenths, besides when I am trying to get within .001 I am using a mic.
for the cheap calipers, I found that you have to clean them really well and use good machine oil when you get them. Then they become relatively smooth.
Since the studs won't be load bearing, I would try to run them between the posts so as not to lose floor space putting the bottom plate on the concrete.
Hi Adam, A machinist I used to know had a B&S micrometer that had come from a production shop and had clearly been used to check a fixed dimension for much of it's life. When the zero was set, it was no less than 6 thou out at one point in it's travel. He kept it as a warning! I'd have liked to see you check the micrometers at a couple of points between the extremes.
Hey Adam I would suggest since you've had issues with that concert floor of yours in the past may be a good time to clear off, clean and the coat that floor so you don't have that same issue.
Another thing you should add. Even though those imports are measuring accurately and dont seem that much different than your starretts. They will not last nearly as long. They use cheap metals and dont properly harden it so itll wear out sooner than the starretts or any other notable brand.
I enjoyed the comparison. Even though they are all very accurate I wonder how long they will hold that accuracy? In our masonry tools we had to be careful to get trowels, hammers, chisels and joint finishing tools that hold up to the very abrasive material we use. Measuring tools have to be accurate but not to your level. Speaking of levels, plumb rules have to be rugged but really accurate so we can plumb and level our work, Greg.
Your videos are allways so long and full of information, amazing how you havent run out of content to show on SNS yet
Love your vids, this comes from a learning machinist
I don't think I can run out of content, energy maybe, but there will always be subject matter to talk about and share.
No problem running out of content...a week of work can easily make an hour of SNS....
As a teen I started setting every spare cent aside for good teaching books and top of the line tools. It took 5 years to fill my home built tool chest. At 58 I still have many of those tools and I clean and lightly oil them every use and put them back. And they still work like new. Rule #1. Tools are like your (work) wife. You treat them well and you don’t loan them to your buddies.
I bought my Central Tools calipers in '74. Couldn't afford one with the dial. I used them as an auto mechanic until my health gave up in 2016.
I would have loved to have something better but it served me well.
Love the way you teach Adam, fantastic videos.
Great objective comparison between high end and budget measuring tools. I appreciate the fact that you stated that the import tooling would get the job done, but it was simply your preference to buy and use the premium tooling.
Ditto that!
Lovely people, Adam and Abi. Thank you for sharing a little of your lives with us. The world could do with a lot more people like you. Thanks for the tool comparisons too, there is some shocking stuff from China but also some that is worth it's salt. I guess the trick is to check it out carefully when it arrives
Thumbs up for The Shed! My favorite when I was down there for training. So good.
Such a blessing to have reasonably cheap land and have your own shop.
I'm a US Citizen but I've been living in AU for 20 years, we have THE MOST expensive real estate in the world, the avg. home in the city (which is where everybody lives, there's little sustaining work anywhere else) costs over $1,000,000 (Approx. US $700,000).
That's at an average, you cannot find a home like yours but 40 miles out of town, and at that you'd be looking at over $800,000+, if you want an acre or two where you can set up and settle in its just unaffordable unless you can find some way to make it work in the country.
Real estate's really a huge problem here, largely because of mass immigration and a lack of houses the housing price just continues to go up and never down, which means its not only a safe investment but the standard investment and with a decent return - Everybody becomes a landlord and that pushes up the price further.
What that also means is that if you have a business that's not as safe of an investment or offers as good of a return in Australia, you don't have that business, it doesn't exist. No one will put money in it if they can just buy a house or an apartment or 10 and rent it out to some chinese 'university students'.
Land is everything, I make do right now with a storage unit, about as large as a large car, with a foot on either side and a maybe 2 foot front and rear. Which costs $500/month and is so cramped it makes every job take at least 3x as long.
Land is everything and if you've got it you should remember this and give thanks to God often for His blessings.
My biggest item on measuring tools is repeat-ability. If you are making parts for repair work using the old part as reference it really doesn't matter what tools you use as long as you use the same tool for the measurements and the tool repeats well. Now if you are machining to a print you want to be sure the tools are accurate.
Good job on that tool comparison. Clearly for a guy just starting out, those imports will measure far closer than his skills will get him, so it's a good low cost starting point and may help to bring more young guys into the machining trade.
Glad to learn you are taking time to be with Abby. All work and no play... as they say. The new building addition sounds great. I like my new Abom t shirt. Nicely designed and made. I used inexpensive calipers when I ran abrasive jet cutters. Sooner or later they got garnet into the rack and were toast and measurements were usually +/- 0.001.
Great video Adam, as always.
In my 25 years in the machining business, i have found that the cheap calipers will get the job done (like you said)
but they just don't last like the Starrett or Mitutoyo do in every day use. The expensive tools can take the odd "whoops" here and there. I purchased some Moore & Wright inside and outside mic's from a retired teacher 15 years ago and those things are built like tanks ! They will be around forever. Starrett are the same. You get what you pay for.
As for your shop upgrade, right on man, congrats. Looking forward to seeing it come together. A word of warning though,
just look at Keith Rucker…he built that big new shop, and now he can't stop filling it with machines !! Its an addiction I guess.
Anyway…cheers from Hamilton, Ontario. Mike.
So I've been a machinist for about 26 years now and I've run expensive and cheap calipers just the same. My thoughts on this is as long as the cheap ones measure correctly. 001 = .001 I run with the cheap ones consistently and figure that they are a consumable. If starrett are $200 and the cheap ones are $20. If you plan on a lifespan of 2 years for the starrett calipers, you could open a brand new set of cheap calipers every 3 months and at the end of the 2 years you are opening the last of the cheap calipers or you could be using a 2 year old set of calipers. Considering all calipers hit the floor at some time. You don't cry as bad when the cheap ones hit the ground. Just my thoughts.
Shout out to Abby too.
Thanks for the excellent videos, I love listening and watching you.
Glad you had a good, well deserved vacation.
Back when I worked in a Calibration lab we used to jokingly call vernier calipers Very-Nears, because as you said, they get you very close but for absolute precision a micrometer has to be used.
For sure! Calipers have there place in the shop, but I don't advise my users to be using them for close critical measurements.
+stonesie81 haha I'm stealing that!! :D
stonesie81 My old foreman called them Very-Neers as well. I think mostly to emphasize that it was time to focus on the work.
Yeah parralax error on the vernier scales is a issue, that's why i use dial calipers myself.IIRC when my eyes were younger i didnt have as much of a problem, i cant really use them now anymore for anything approaching accuracy.
One thing i refuse to use is digital! Floating scales that can be slipped, easily knock your zero and they always seem to go flat when you really need them! I refuse to use them.
Nice presentation.
Way back when I bought a Craftsman 6 dial caliper. I know somebody in the metrology lab so I asked him to give them a quick look. He did and explained why he took readings at 90 degree intervals around the dial. It seems a common problem was an off center pivot pin that would result in a small error. Something worth knowing if you are calibrating dial calipers.
I’ve been using Fowler 6” digital calipers for about 15 years. Been a good reliable and accurate set. It was recommended by our QC guy
You came a long way bro, much props and respect brother. Stay blessed
On the construction end if you know you plan to add the 3-phase power at least have the conduit run and when you are ready to pull the trigger then have the wire run and outlets and hook up at the panel. This a very common practice to do.
I have both and what I've found is that it is relative if you start a project measuring with a Hopsing mic stay with it. where I've ran into trouble is switching back and forth. great video. thanks for sharing.
Straight out of the new bag. You test the slide friction. You didn't touch the lock break.
Failed TEST.
Ultimately the FEEL is critical.
Thanks for the video.
I worked in Ocean Springs a few years ago a d was there during the time they were hosting Cruising the Coast car event. It's definitely something you want to attend if you like cars - classics, modern, customs, etc. If you ever make it back, check out Pleasant's BBQ on Government Street. Imo, their BBQ a d regular menu food, is way better than The Shed.
This goes back to the early '80s but I worked for an Industrial supply company. We got some of the first Mitutoyo digital calipers. Unfortunately the earlier versions had an etched glass encoder strip. Worked great until the first time somebody dropped it into a toolbox.Wish I had kept the one that lived in my desk...
I hate cheap tools, I try to buy secondhand vintage tools off ebay and they are always superior while being fractionally more expensive. I do use a cheap set of 12" calipers however. When I need more precisce calipers I will buy a mitutoyo aos 0-6.
The tools that save me the most time and headache in the shop are keytools (stamped steel klein SAE, Metric & Torx set, plastic is expensive garbage), and my knipex wrench. My most used piece of equipment is an electronic headset like that worn by shooters. Its just a normal set of muffs except lower profile and they have a microphone connected to speakers inside that allow you to turn them on to hear things. The speakers cannot replay sounds louder than 86 or so decibels. They are far superior to plugs or dead muffs. The nice thing about any muffs is that you can press your earmuff to the toolpost handle and hear the tool touch the workpiece very crisply before you see or hear anything.
Dear Adam, Things look on the up. God bless you both.
I have built a couple shops. Take your time and make sure it's where you want to be and it suits your needs.
Good for you, Adam, I have always hated having welding and grinding equipment in the same space as precision machines.
I have not liked it much since I put the equipment in there but it's all the space I had.
Yeah.....I've had jobs doing welding and machining, they don't mix well....any grinding or welding is just awful contamination....surprises how many guys here grind and weld right in the middle of the shop....where they're assembling engines/motors and stuff....
I grew up in Ocean Springs! Glad y'all enjoyed it. Next time you're in the area, be sure to stop by TatoNut for the best donut of your life.
Yeeeeees I'm sooooooo happpy you are getting a shop expansion I can't wait for those videos.
One thing to consider Adam.... keep your best tool bit grinder in the machine shop. From a wood workers stand point, the less travel you make in dis-assembly, the better. I am not saying don't get your grinding out of the machine shop. but.... keep your tool bit grinder easily accessible. You can thank me later. :) A shop is like a kitchen, think triangle :)
Calipers are great for guesstimating, kinda like the all/16th’s Crescent wrench. They work best for putting you in the ballpark. I’ve watched guys use calipers and push them or feather them to get whatever number they are seeking. Thanks for the video
Thumbs up on having the shop space all done and finished.
Consider moving that entry door to the new wall.Consider adding a proper shop sink hung on the wall to the new bathroom - I think this is something you will be glad to have.
The new entry door will be on the new wall, and the bathroom will have a large wash sink, one of those plastic types.
An older post yet well in tune still with things this day.
Starrett or Brown & Sharp are first choice.
Everything else is a disposal type grade. Yet still quite usable reasonable good quality to have unless you can step up and get the better tools.
Its nice that you be able to have separate space for grinding. The dust is so frustrating to try to control.
The Starretts have dual gears but no protective cover. I always set them down with the dial down so chips don't fall into the rack. Once I broke one of the gears and sent it back to Starrett. When I got them back they had a new bezel that was not so scratched but they failed to fix the real problem, assuming that all that was wrong was the scratched up bezel.They did not even check to see if they actually worked before returning them to me.
Thanks for the video's. Adam. You might consider putting in the conduits for the three phase power even though you are not going to install the wiring right now. Once the conduits are in you can install the wiring at will.
True, but we kept the cost to a price point I was looking for so I had to eliminate the 3 phase. We will run a whole new line out there for three phase, once I pick the locations of the machines. No worries.
Abom79 p
Abom79 Hey Adam, is your new service 460v?
I used dial calipers (Tesa, Brown & Sharp) for 30 years then went digital and never looked back. I currently use the coolant proof Mitutoyo 8" digital, about $200. Use micrometers for anything closer than .001".
Most of my measurements are slip fit and "close enough" for welding purposes.
Or measurements on tubing and selection of drill bits, as some dont have a drill index to go into and reside in my drill bit tray on the stand
Wayne D The 8" Coolant proof Mittys are my go to as well.
Cool, yall was right down the road from me. I live just few minutes away from Stennis, in Picayune. Haven't been there on my free time since i was a child.
Hi Adam, as a hobby machinist I really like your videos - full of informative tips from a professional. I worked for 6 years in Metrology and it was all about calibration and traceability. Micrometers and callipers were regularly checked using higher grade slip gauges, which themselves were checked. Maybe the cheaper tools will lose their accuracy sooner? Time will tell although a good quality tool is a joy to use.
Keep the videos coming!
I am just starting out working with metal making knives. I use digital calipers and micrometers because of eyesight issues. I probably should breakdown and buy bifocals but that would mean less money for tools. Another great video Abom79
I bought a cheap chinesium 12" digital caliper and checked it with our $10,000 height gage. It was perfect. Surprised me for sure.
Hey Adam.... Finally bought myself a Noga mini for my shop on your advice back on one of your vids. Goota say.... what a game changer for me!! All those other holders just didn't make the cut, so they came on sale at KBC, so I got one. Thanks man! It is worth the investment for a great quality tool. I have to agree on buying want you can afford to get your shop up and working so you can get to machining.
+goldsearcher55 Glad to hear your excitement! Noga holders are a pleasure to use.
You spoke of how tight the caliper movement is, but that's fully adjustable. It's not factory set. There are 2 adjustment screws for friction on the top surface. Friction is adjustable, what matters in quality is that whatever friction you set is consistent across the full length.
Fowler, just like Mitutoyo, has tools from a number of countries. So does my favorite, Brown and Sharp. But I also have some cheap tools. I have the exact same Chinese calipers, except with a white dial. The difference is that I bought it 36 years ago. I bought it for my company, because the good tools kept disappearing. It’s amazing that this tool is still in perfect condition, and remains accurate.
Great video Adam. I also echo some that you said the less expensive work, however like you said, they are new and not used for many years. I have some Harbor Fright dial calipers I used when rebuilding an engine. I have since watching your videos have started to buy Starrett tools. My first purchases were tap holders. What a difference in quality. The cheapo holders that come in sets just don't hold the taps. I'm also looking for Greenfield die holders. I even found an old set of drill bits that I'm going to practice sharpening. Thanks for your video's and allowing us into your busy life with work and Elaina. The new enclosure will be awesome!
+Aaron Belknap The quality tools are just nice to have, use, and feel good in the hands. Congrats on your Starrett upgrades! The old drills are usually a good high quality cutting tool.
Just FYI, Elena and I have been divorced for a couple years now and have gone separate directions.
Foot in mouth (or fingers). Sorry about you and Elena. I didn't know. I've been watching the SNS series and not quite caught up. Anyways. Been searching Ebay for Starrett stuff. Good drills are a must. I currently use cobalt steel drill bits. Anyways, great video's. I've learned a lot.
I recently came across a tool box with nice old starrett tools at my job shop. Might "borrow" some lol
You sure that's not your co-workers box? LOL
18:27 Screw right there to tighten it up...
I mean yeah but it left the factory like that. Any line with an engineer behind it that has a small smidge of pride will not let that go
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 Might have been fine a factory, and came loose during shipping. I suppose they could use thread fastener. As a consumer I'm okay verifying or assembling products before usage...especially if it costs me less.
Great news about the shop expansion on the way! Abbie did fine filming!
Thanks Brian! I'm excited about the new work.
Good for the expansion,But, WHERE, will the smoker video be filmed. I look forward to your cooking/smoker vids?
The wife and I went paddle boarding at that bridge there in ocean springs. We go to Biloxi every September and make a day trip to Pensacola. Have to meet up with Abom some time.
Let me know and maybe we can meet up.
I have to say you seem to have perfected the audio and video. Of the 40 or so subscriptions I have (yes I know) I think you have the best quality of all of them. Whatever you have done to get rid of wind noise in your outdoor videos is great. Keep up the good work.Oh, and Abbey (sp?) did a great job too. Nice and smooth and steady.
+Dave Sage Thanks! I added a simple mic to the GoPro and use a wind sock with it.
I recommend that a real great investment is a Starrett tap wrench. Hands down the best tap handle I have ever used.
They do make a fine tap wrench, both straight and t-handle style.
If the material storage is gong to be mounted to the wall, and you want low impact into the space, what about building a metal frame so it gets included in the wall cavity, all that you see would be holes in the wall that are threaded, if in the future you move, you can simply unbolt and fill the holes.
Wood wall studs can be fixed to each side of the metal to provide fixings for the cladding etc.
It's no different to providing a wood block in the wall ready for hanging heavier items in the house, like a sink, but this is heavy duty Abom style :D
Adam, I was born and raised in Mobile,Alabama , and during my Navy tour was fortunate to be stationed in Pensacola and Milton ,Fl. Just wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed your recent gulf coast videos.Keep up the good work !!!
+Paul Hamler That's cool man, my areas. Glad to know your enjoying the videos too.
Adam, I can't remember which video it was but you shared the brand of orange gloves you use.I ordered some from Amazon and was very pleased with them so I posted a little Instagram video thanking you. If you have time sometime and need a good laugh check out the video my Instagram handlei hamlertools69
I know I'm late but it is cool to see you going through my hometown.
You hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that the $15.00 callipers were unused and I am sure that with a bit of use in a work situation it may not be so accurate. Gets what you pay for !!
I like the idear of the Plastik plate on the China Mike to prevent you from warming up the Mike.
All my old german Made mikes hafe wood
The nice thing about the 120A Starrett that you don't see on other calipers is that you can pull the 4 screws and you now have access to clean the drive gear and rack.
Most of the others you have to run your head through the crud and off the tail to clean the rack and drive gear.
Something I found , The Starrett Global & Made in USA both as well as the Flower & Brown & Sharps are all very subseptable to jumping teeth in production work in the shop to chips getting in the rack. However the made in china and Mitutoyos both seem to be more of a lawn mowers over chips and such and tend not to jump teeth as often so the Starrets and others are more of a inspection room tool more then a in production tool. 80% of the time I use the cheap China brand calipers in the shop ( at work ) to get parts to with in .010 then use bore gauges or mic's to get parts dead nut's as if the China calipers get dropped hard, you only out 15 bucks . You drop a set of them big money USA Starrets or Brown & Sharps , that makes for a VERY bad day, and yes I have done that . The fact is you do get use to the feel of the cheap China calipers if you use them everyday all the time . However overall , I like the Miutoyo Calipers the best as well .
I know it would be a major pain to move the blast cabinet into the new area, away from the machines especially the Monarch, but in my humble opinion would be well worth it. I have worked in numerous shops with blast cabinets including my own and have yet to find one without blast media on every surface close to the cabinet, has to be hard on machines. Love all your videos. Very happy and proud to have just received my new "shop life" pocket tee.
I am giving serious thoughts to sell it so that I have more room in the back. I'd rather not even move it into the other side. It's way bigger then what i need, but a real nice machine!
At 16:33 Adam pulls out his grandfather's Starrett stainless steel #1230 micrometer, which is still made, and available as I type this, from Starrett for a mere $326.00. As I type I have NOT watched the video so I do not know if it does better than the $15 Chinese micrometer.
All my new tools and tooling are from shars and i like them.. especially my micrometer set... they arent as smooth as starrett but they work great for me.
I use the Shars Aventor calipers and really enjoy them. Been going strong for 2 years now.
I always say that if you take care of your tools they will last you long time. Most of my tools are Mitutoyo and Starrett but I still have Chinese OD mic set 0-12" that I use almost every day for the past 12 years and it works perfectly.
The friction thimble on the Mic should be adjustable as to tension. I bought 5 used Quality Mics for $45. After cleaning, and minor calibration on two, using Mitutoyo mic standards, they are all within one tenth. 2 Scherr-Tumico 3 Brown&Sharp.
Shop addition will be awesome Adam! I think I'm more excited than you are! I too have come to the point where I need to expand which I never thought would be needed. It will be nice having the separation of welding/grinding from your machines keeping the grit off of them. I always have to cover my machines before doing any grinding which is a real pain to do every time. A nice slab out front connecting it all will be a nice touch to finish it all off as well as very useful. This will make for interesting content as well as give me some ideas for my addition. Your new camera person does very well also! Great job both of you!
+wvrockcrusher I'm excited about the slab work myself! Been needing concrete out there for years.
Adam, A suggestion for the new shop wiring,
Run a sub-main cable to a new fuseboard, Then circle the room with 3x3" steel trunking a foot or so down from the ceiling and use conduit drops for switches and outlets etc.
It might seem a bit extravagant at the outset, but, you end up with a neat and very easily adaptable electrical installation,
Best wishes, J.
Adam: It was nice to meet you at the Bar-Z. Hope you, Keith and Tom liked the yellow t-shirts. As you live in Florida, consider getting an ex-racing Greyhound. I've had 5 and they have all been great members of my family. Have 2 now. They are 23 hour a day couch potatoes only needing 1 hour of exercise, which should be easy. Jon
I would recommend that you get spray foam 1" thick before the other insulation goes in, it really helps seal up the airflow. Of course if you are going with metal for the siding they may use the rolls of insulation that goes on before the metal which makes it hard to do the spray foam. Also, you may want to stick the air compressor back outside in its own little roofed area, they tend to get loud inside a sealed room; or you could flip flop the compressor with the bathroom and have them frame the compressor to be outside under the roof you have now. Changing the electric for that isn't that terribly bad, same for the re-plumbing the air lines.
Adam great news on the expansions, you have more Space to move around equipment which seems to add more capacity from extra room. It clears the mind to focus better on the customer's job. It will fill up quick and the kind of go getter you are you will be adding on again before you know it. Tom makes great use of his space and that is good because if anyone visits the extra space can be very good,he works so fast that in cramped spaces he may accdentaly clamp or church us right up! At least it would be good work! ;)
Sounds like great plans for the shop addition. The food at the Shed looked great again.
Always a great place to have some lunch!
Yay it's SNS time!
Years ago I had a cheap dial bore gauge. It had .0005" graduation marks on the dial face. I used it when sizing Harley-Davidson cylinders. The factory allows .0002" max out of round and taper. Probably about 20 years ago I bought a Mitutoyo dial bore gauge, with graduation marks of .0001". When I compared my old cheapo to the Mitutoyo, it was not really true to .0005". Junk. It probably made me better at final honing cylinders, but it also no doubt caused me to unknowingly put out a product that was not in the tolerances I thought I was holding.
So maybe a guy can get away with cheap Chinese measurement tools for fun, but if you have to hold a tight tolerance for real - on a customer's work, save your money, and buy the good stuff. Otherwise your customer isn't getting what he paid for. You are only as accurate as your worst measurement tool. My two cents.
Gimme that sandwich!
Bought a modern General micrometer from a hardware store on a late Saturday night. The anvils were not parallel :-/ probably about 2 thousands of an inch out...
I should have checked it in the store and possibly got the second micrometer off the peg. No matter the brand and country of origin when we buy tools, we should be careful that they are defect free. Often the corners cut are in quality control or materials. The only good thing about the General is that it is the beater micrometer if its a dirty job.
You need to test the inside jaws and depth as well. That's where the slop and accuracy (or lack there of) are with the cheaper calipers!
another great weekend.My daughter just got more viewer mail so she is super excited which make me happy and then I see SNS pop up in my notifications and bam now I am even happier Thanks Adam
Viewer mail is always fun! I hope she enjoys the tools.
I'll use calipers to measure close to the final dimension (say within a few thou), at which point I switch to a micrometer, so I don't see the point in spending £200 on a pair of calipers.
I prefer to spend £20 on a cheap pair of calipers, and put the other £180 toward a really good set of micrometers.
You'd still be better off getting a quality set with a Vernier scale (OK, bit more than 20, but still in that region) than something built to be cheap if you don't mind the lack of digital display. More rigid, more reliable, better feel - generally a pleasure to use in comparison. You'll be surprised how much money people charge to add another failure mode to a system (in this case - batteries)
233kosta
Most people don’t realize that old school vernier scale calipers are more accurate than dial calipers. There’s a lack of knowledge about what the vernier scale is and how it allows measurement to 1/1000th.
Might make more sense to put the HVAC near the middle of the long wall for more even distribution. Maybe one of those Japanese split units would keep the hole smaller. Might need one for the main shop after you enclose the one in the window now.
+Hollis Inman middle would be great, I wanted to keep the wall with clean lines though.
Hi Gents.. Do you think that the "Friction" of the Thimble can be adjusted to make the Micrometer have a different "FEEL" ??
I know with the starrett it's fixed by the spring tension and clutch.
Adam I used white metal roofing for the ceiling in my new shop put conduit on the outside for lights easy fast instalation just fasten to rafters something to think about mike
+Judith Cook That's the plan 👍🏻
Great stuff Adam and you are right, to each their own. OTOH unless you are a tool and die maker 1/10 of a thou (throughout the entire range) = repeat-ability)) is MORE than good enough for someone working out of their garage.
I have plenty of cheap import tools that I use for rough work such as measuring on casting or mill scale surfaces. Also they make great tools to leave at a machine full time for rough measuring as they are very affordable and good enough for a few thousands and you don't mind so much if the get dropped or go missing. Also they make great loaners if you work with a bunch of 'those' kind of people.
I recommend a half A frame against the wall. If you make it well and then tie the top to the wall with some leg bolts you can keep it really low profile and maximize you space. I Made mine from 1 1/2" .188" wall square tube with 3' centers and it's 6' tall and the base is 1' wide and it isn't even tied to the wall and it never wobbles even when loading/unloading 3" bar with the fork, mind you it's got several thousand pounds of material on it most of the time so that helps.
On the bathroom, put the toilet in a stall and then get your self a nice big wash tub sink with a drain tray built in on the outside. If I wasn't in a leased building I would have ripped out the sinks out of my bathrooms, moved the walls and installed a big tub sink and drain tray.
I liked everything about this video especially the comparisons, I also think that if you're using import tools they're great for just Knockaround but as Precision Tools even calipers aren't useful. at my job I use cheap calipers from Harbor Freight all the time they tend to get broke pretty often but I keep my precision tools for when I really need a close tolerance. great job appreciate the watch.
Congrats on the shop build/expansion and looking forward to the build! Sounds like you have a good plan in mind, whatever the quote is it will run over budget as the project progresses, take it from me, my build started at 40K and looking close to 65K to finish and that's still with open walls and ceiling! Great video buddy, keep them coming!
Yikes! Ray for 50K i could put up a nice big new metal building. I decided to start small and make use of the floor space I have now and see where that leads me. I'd like to also build another covered area on the back of my house for BBQ's and socials.
A metal building would have been much cheaper but was not allowed in my neighborhood. I am glad you have something to build onto, that will save you a little there but the restroom and plumbing will be a nice chunk of cash! I started with dirt and yes concrete is crazy expensive, my slab was 11K and lumber was 10K. I plan on doing a complete cost breakdown video after the shop is complete, I think many will be shocked at the cost involved to build here!
I have had some of those Chinese micrometers , they wore out with in a few months, i buy second hand starrett mics now , they are much better quality .The last starrett mic i bought from ebay cost me $16 including freight and it works perfectly
The one thing I failed to mention, longevity.
I'm not sure it matters if the the resistance is light, in the friction thimble.
If you zero it, having closed the mic using the friction thimble, then all measurements will be consistent, provided your friction resistance remains the same.
Make provision for natural light to enter the new shop. Too many 'man caves' have no windows and then have strip lights installed to try to get back what was shut out.
my last ebay purchase was 10 of the calipers you reviewed. I put one at each location in my shop where I might need it and the remaining are spares. I sold all my high end stuff. they're not worth worrying about. what do I care about how they look or feel, as you said, the cheap ones do the job.
I'm just a hobbyist wrench monkey, I most bought a set of calipers for reloading ammunition, but I find myself using them for all kinds of things since, like measuring bolts and comparing to drill sizes for more accurate hole drilling, for scoring a quick line 6 inch from an edge of sheet metal, measuring inner diameters of holes, output shafts of electric motors, engine parts, all sorts. Mine are cheap electric ones off amazon, I was using them at one point in the rain on my jeep this winter and accidently left them outside in the street... they were run over, the battery self ejected I thought it was over... put the battery back in and to my shock still worked...
Now that's called getting your monies worth!
sometimes you can be suprised, i needed an ac power drill as my usual one was too heavy for some work (need two hands to bring it up to horizontal etc) and didnt have the money for a good one (i usually buy bosch tools) so bought a chinese one at a supermarketm thinking, if it lasts a year (it has a 1 year warranty) i can save for a better one and keep an eye on deals, i did buy a better one, but 17 years later the chinese one is still running, its on its 3rd set of brushes (which are only £1 for 4 sets from china!) and still works great, ive not needed to use the bosch one i bought
Great news on the shop expansion Adam! I'm in the process of building my own shop, a month ago I finished the concrete floor, and I'm moving all my machinery and doing the electrical right now. Very exciting times! Congrats my friend!
Very cool!!
For 0-1" I have a Starrett 1230 that didn't have the tenth's drum so I ordered one from Starrett and put on it for around $15, I keep it back for when I really want to make sure I have an accurate measurement. I also have an SPI that reads to tenths that I use as a general mic and it feels as good as the Starrett BUT the only thing I don't like about it is that it's ratchet is way light like the Chinese mic you have there, I need to try to see if a Mit. mic ratchet will fit it. All my mics are used that I have bought over time off of ebay and I have up to 6", they are either Starrett, B&S or Mit. with the exception of the one SPI.
As far as calipers go I want to get a Mit. but I have been using a digital Harbor Freight special that I have owned for at least 15 years and it still works fine, it only measures to half tenths and a bit iffy at that but to be honest my lathe and MY skills aren't going to hit to the tenths, besides when I am trying to get within .001 I am using a mic.
I enjoyed your drive too. It looks nice down there, I may have to travel south and see that part sometime. Good job.
Maybe consider, as part of the new slab, a base for a jib boom for offloading materials.
I like the warning sticker on the door
Can you adjust the friction on the micrometer?
for the cheap calipers, I found that you have to clean them really well and use good machine oil when you get them. Then they become relatively smooth.
Since the studs won't be load bearing, I would try to run them between the posts so as not to lose floor space putting the bottom plate on the concrete.
Hang the wall from the header beam
The wall is going between the posts.
Hi Adam,
A machinist I used to know had a B&S micrometer that had come from a production shop and had clearly been used to check a fixed dimension for much of it's life. When the zero was set, it was no less than 6 thou out at one point in it's travel. He kept it as a warning!
I'd have liked to see you check the micrometers at a couple of points between the extremes.
That would be an interesting test on the older mics for sure.
Hey Adam I would suggest since you've had issues with that concert floor of yours in the past may be a good time to clear off, clean and the coat that floor so you don't have that same issue.
Another thing you should add.
Even though those imports are measuring accurately and dont seem that much different than your starretts. They will not last nearly as long.
They use cheap metals and dont properly harden it so itll wear out sooner than the starretts or any other notable brand.
I enjoyed the comparison. Even though they are all very accurate I wonder how long they will hold that accuracy? In our masonry tools we had to be careful to get trowels, hammers, chisels and joint finishing tools that hold up to the very abrasive material we use. Measuring tools have to be accurate but not to your level. Speaking of levels, plumb rules have to be rugged but really accurate so we can plumb and level our work, Greg.
Got a brand new old stock Starrett 799a 8/200 caliper for $90, one of the best tool buy deals to date
you can use such callipers to measure the hole, it might to show the difference