Just finished this job on 2007 crv. 4 hrs to remove. $179 for new starter. 3 hrs to reinstall. Not too hard. No stuck bolts. 4 bleeding knuckles. Suggest needle nosed players for hose clamps and universal 1/4 inch attachment to ratchet You have to saw off the front half of the plastic surrounding the lug on top of the starter so you can tighten the nut with an open end wrench AFTER you install the back starter bolt. Hardest part are 3 behind the intake manifold used closed end wrench to to get at them. Good job on the video thanks ballpark price from dealer $900. So that’s $900 - 170= 730 / say 8 hrs = $91/ hr. Not bad Ps I have little mechanical experience. Am a wood guy you do need a full set metric sockets and wrenches and gloves
Easier way: Remove the 4 bolts from right side (left side leaning over grill) holding the radiator crossover bracket onto the side frame, lift bracket up/off frame and pull towards you far enough to snake plenum out. When done, push bracket back into place up and onto the frame again. Reinstall the 4 bolts.
At least for a CR-V, unless you're into self-abuse, do NOT split the intake manifold while it is on the car. (The "3 bolts" are usually seized and cannot easily be reached,even on a good day!) Take the battery out, bend the hood prop bracket out of the way (it's spot welded in), and just take the two-piece manifold out in one piece.
Thanks. Gave me confidence to do it when I have to do it. Looks like easy to tackle the alternator and starter at the same time. btw, what mileage was on the car?
After doing all this job to my crv i started the car and and it was idling to hight (2k rpm) and the the check engine light came on of curse i unplugged the iacv to remove the tb off the manifold any idea why rpms stays too high? ?
Hey brother. Why did you take half the car apart for the starter? all you needed to was raise the car, remove plastic undercarriages, then you can get to starter in 5 mins after you take off the plastic protectors underneath. You took the hardest way to it.. sorry see that. cheers. good job though.
Really I didn't know that but I think the subfram is block it you can't pull the starter down from the bottom. If you had done one already please share because take too much time doing it. Thanks brother
@@alltsab Yeah so, the subframe is not blocking the starter at all. lift the car up, remove all black plastic coverings from undereath, then start to remove the starter. you will need to turn it slowly to remove. I have done one before. Just hated to see you work so hard for a starter bro.
All Japanese car daily used socket are 8,10,12,14,17,19 and 21. If you working on starter, alternator, and power steering pump socket size are 10,12,14 and 17.
This is my task for tomorrow. I bought the new starter tonight. It's supposed to be 48° and sunny. Prayers for nice weather, please!
Just finished this job on 2007 crv. 4 hrs to remove. $179 for new starter. 3 hrs to reinstall. Not too hard. No stuck bolts. 4 bleeding knuckles.
Suggest needle nosed players for hose clamps and universal 1/4 inch attachment to ratchet You have to saw off the front half of the plastic surrounding the lug on top of the starter so you can tighten the nut with an open end wrench AFTER you install the back starter bolt.
Hardest part are 3 behind the intake manifold used closed end wrench to to get at them. Good job on the video thanks
ballpark price from dealer $900. So that’s $900 - 170= 730 / say 8 hrs = $91/ hr. Not bad
Ps I have little mechanical experience. Am a wood guy you do need a full set metric sockets and wrenches and gloves
Well done. Is not that bad isn't it. Next time piece a cake.
Easier way: Remove the 4 bolts from right side (left side leaning over grill) holding the radiator crossover bracket onto the side frame, lift bracket up/off frame and pull towards you far enough to snake plenum out. When done, push bracket back into place up and onto the frame again. Reinstall the 4 bolts.
I appreciate your segment on testing the starter
😊 thanks
Great job brotha! U just made my replacement job much easyier...
At least for a CR-V, unless you're into self-abuse, do NOT split the intake manifold while it is on the car. (The "3 bolts" are usually seized and cannot easily be reached,even on a good day!) Take the battery out, bend the hood prop bracket out of the way (it's spot welded in), and just take the two-piece manifold out in one piece.
This is a great video my Honda crv just had a starter go out I think cause it's doing the same things as this one in the video
Thank you Sir you helped a lot 🙏 just finished .. what a pain in the back nice detailed video 👍
Good job
Thanks. Gave me confidence to do it when I have to do it. Looks like easy to tackle the alternator and starter at the same time. btw, what mileage was on the car?
RiderSagar I don't remember but it over 120k miles
Thanks for this video homie!
After doing all this job to my crv i started the car and and it was idling to hight (2k rpm) and the the check engine light came on of curse i unplugged the iacv to remove the tb off the manifold any idea why rpms stays too high? ?
Check body throttle cable
@@alltsab it doesn't have a cable it's electronic
Hey brother. Why did you take half the car apart for the starter? all you needed to was raise the car, remove plastic undercarriages, then you can get to starter in 5 mins after you take off the plastic protectors underneath. You took the hardest way to it.. sorry see that. cheers. good job though.
Really I didn't know that but I think the subfram is block it you can't pull the starter down from the bottom. If you had done one already please share because take too much time doing it. Thanks brother
@@alltsab Yeah so, the subframe is not blocking the starter at all. lift the car up, remove all black plastic coverings from undereath, then start to remove the starter. you will need to turn it slowly to remove. I have done one before. Just hated to see you work so hard for a starter bro.
@@spiromilonas1857 what year is the one you did?
@@alltsab 2011 but 07-11 are all same i think
@@spiromilonas1857 yeah I will try that next time
Did you screw unscrew the resonator on the manifold?
Yes
look guys, I took mine out from below. it wasn't that hard and didn't take long 😎😎😎
100%
Nice video buddy!!!
Thanks for showing.
Big help, thanks!
Mike Bedont glad it help bro.
great video
thanks
Man wish you would have said what socket size and wrench size.
All Japanese car daily used socket are 8,10,12,14,17,19 and 21. If you working on starter, alternator, and power steering pump socket size are 10,12,14 and 17.
you are supposed to take it out from the bottom.. only need to remove and intake manifold bracket not the whole darn manifold....
Great Video! Are you in New York? If so, please do my starter lol
Some day I will come to live there
good video, where did you buy the starter?
Prasanta Pal AutoZone
Talking about the three bolts.
Andre Ner yes you have to unscrew to be able to remove it out from the intake and if you dont remove you cannot remove the intake out.
lots of small steps get skipped in the video. Could not take off intake manifold as shown in the video.
Because you skip small step
Way easier doing it this way
This guy just mess up my car.. oil's and antifreeze all leaking because of he's charging starter
skips to many steps