To the person "turning it in because it's expired", ammo isn't food, it's what gets food. If you have ammo you think is expired, I'll get rid of it for you.
While true, the only ammo I'd call 'expired' is old 20th century ammo with primers using fulminate of mercury in the compound. I think they stopped making them this way in the 1950s so your chances of getting any of those primers is rare. Primers using fulminate of mercury is extremely corrosive, and the gun needs to be cleaned asap to avoid problems. Also the brass cases cannot be used for reloading as a result of the corrosive qualities
@@leveractiongypsy1848 True that mercury fuliminate primers will break diwn and no longer work over time, but the corrosive ammo is the kind using potassium chlorate (or potassium perchlorate) as the primer. This is the stuff used in oxygen candles, and when a potassium chlorate primer fires you are essentially sending a jet of superheated oxygen into your propellant. Needless to say, this makes chlorate primers _very_ reliable ignition sources, but the downside is the residue left behind (once that oxygen is driven out) is potassium _chloride_ which is a salt. Hence the corrosion danger.
Yeah, most ammo is totally fine if stored even reasonably decent. The most vulnerable ammo are shotgun slugs. Moisture gets in through the front through the ribs/rifling of the slug and gets the powder and primer wet. You have to hot glue them if you want them to be waterproof.
Keep it dry and under 100 degrees! Worked for me for the last 60 years, and my dad, and my grandfather! It can sit in the open on a shelf as long as it's dry!
I have 30-06 rounds that I bought from the CMP dated 1944. When I bought my first M1 I also bought 4 cases of ammunition in end block clips. Works fine.
I'll see your 1944 and raise you a bandoleer of 1917 .30-'06 with corrosive primers that is still as shiny as it was made. And yes, it still shoots in my 6-digit '03 Springfield.
My Father bought a box of Winchester 380 Auto ammo in 1953 for the Astra 300 he had bought for my Mom and it sat in the bedroom dresser for decades and in 1995 he ask me to take the Astra and the ammo and see if it was still any good. I took the Astra 300 and the ammo to my local range and not only did all 50 rounds fire but all 50 hit the target at 50 feet, not all hit the middle but lets just say they all hit paper. After 42 years in a dresser drawer in the original box they were fine.
I remember awhile back there was talk of the gov't making ammo/powder companies put something in the powder to degrade it over time. My memory isn't good enough for me to remember if it was a rumor or a conspiracy or even what decade, but Pepperidge Farms remembers. Good luck and God bless.
Barbata BOXER from California floated an idea for legislation the PRIMERS should be compounded to degrade after a year. Just another AIR HEAD from CA running her mouth on and on with nothing inside her head.
@@eloiseharbeson2483 Ow ya. We need businesses to start being more responsible then the consumer. Like we need the government to dictate what we can use for self defense.
@@me5768 this is an old issue. The US military made the claim in the early 70's that primers in military ammunition would have a lifetime. It was an attempt to distract from the numbers of US manufacturerd weapons that ended up being used against our own troops. It was BS then and it's BS now. Any commercial ammo manufacturer that was rumored to be doing this would suffer a catastrophic loss of market share. That being said, the corrosively primed mil-surp seems to last longer than the non-corrosively primed commercial ammo.
@@me5768 Depends on the specs. Ammo manufacturers do sometimes change things. Creating different results. But after buying the ammo it is up to us to protect it till we use it.
We got ammo from the old DCM lake city dated from 40s 50s 60s never had a problem. I got some paper shots shells that still go boom . Like you said if it's stored right it will last a long time
For those who are unaware, brass casings will tarnish from exposure to the atmosphere. The green corrosion on brass is known as Verdigris which is chemical corrosion of the copper in the brass alloy. Some brass casings for revolvers are nickel plated. This is because in olden days when revolver cartridges were stored in leather belts, the brass would corrode to form Verdigris and would get stuck in the leather belt. However, nickel tends to resist corrosion better than brass does. The desiccant to use to absorb moisture from the air is known as Silica Gel. You can buy a small metal canister filled with Silica Gel to absorb moisture. Then when it becomes saturated with moisture, you simply heat it in the oven to dry it out and use it again. Firing dubious ammunition can be dangerous, because it is known that during war time, terrorism or sabotage, the enemy will treacherously leave ammunition available that has been tampered with by deliberately refilling it with explosive powder at an excessive pressure rating than the gun is supposed to fire. Consequently the unsuspecting shooter will have the gun blow up in his face, because the tainted ammunition was intentionally a small bomb.
Woman quit calling yourself dumb!!!! You obviously are a lot smarter than most “ Booksmart” by a mile!!!!! Not to mention beautiful. Farmers daughter….,no makeup Blue jeans no B/S! Keep goin Girl!!! God Bless!!!!!!!
I did find a 38 special round on the ground when I was hunting in the 1970s and just fired it this year because I bought a revolver and it worked fine.
I had 8mm run up in the 70's that was corrosively primed. Seemed to be full power stuff. Why the Soviets stuck with potassium chlorate primers into the 90's
I have fired 30-40 year old 9mm and 5.56 without a single failure. On the other hand some 30 year old shot shells could not be used because the plastic shells were falling apart.
The closest thing to old propellant getting dangerous is coarse-grained black powder breaking down into smaller, finer granules that will burn faster. That's about it, though. Another thing that might be possible is the sulfur in black powder forming sulfuric acid and contaminating a potassium chlorate primer. Chlorate's sensitivity to detonation increases when exposed to sulfuric acid and it could get bad enough to the point of spontaneous ignition. But you would need 1) A black powder cartridge with a chlorate primer; and 2) Sufficient humidity to somehow form sulfuric acid out of the black powder. That's a devil's brew of highly unlikely bad luck.
If you see green on a case loaded with smokeless powders that could indicate that the powder is decomposing. Smokless production incolves nitric acid that add nitro groups to the cellulose or glycerine if it is a double based powder. The process of degradation releases groups that act similarly to nitric acid. I got a head separation from such ammo. When I tried to pull a bullet to examine the powder on a second cartridge the case broke in half. That reloaded 30-06 in GI cases with 3031 powder was old and had been stored at high temperatures in an attic. It was accurate, but totally unsafe most likely due to storage conditions.
I bought some ammo cans for some of my ammo. They have the rubber seal in it. Also, it is stored in my closet. When I buy ammo. I make sure it is the same grain. So, when I get home. I just dump them in my ammo cans.
Some pre world War 2 ammo with corrosive primers did not fire. Even older ammo that were kept dry did fire. I avoid old corrosive primer ammo because it requires too much cleaning of the gun.
To me, Army veteran 4yr: 1990s, licensed security(armed), ccw a lot depends on the gun 🏭 ammunition. Some brands are low quality. I've seen older Remington Golden Saber that was ⬇️. 2010s. The big points are to store factory made ammunition in containers, boxes. Avoid damp, moist moldy environments, dust-lint. My carry ammunition, duty rounds I shoot up, replace every 4-6mo. Lint, grit, sweat, rain can seep into magazines, holders. Clean fresh 9mm .40 .45acp 10mm can help save your 🥓.
Back in '98 I bought a Marlin Model 336 in .35 Remington from my retired employer. He had inherited it from his father who had died in '76. With the rifle came the ammunition that his father had purchased for his own use. The rifle was made in '52 so the ammunition must have been dated from some point in time between '52 to '76. I tested the rifle with the ammunition very soon after purchase, and all was well. A few years later, I noticed some frequent hangfires with the old ammunition. The cases were brittle too. Previously, I had used mostly mine own handloads. There were also a few failures to fire. I ended up pulling the bullets of the last 20 or so of the old Remington factory loads and trashing the cases, primers, and powder.
I had some ammo that got left in a leaky camper trailer. Threw away all the steel cases 7.62 that had severe rust on it. Fired some of the 22 LR through an old revolver and got a lot of split cases.
More of a concept than a reality. I had some 22LR and cheap plastic shotgun shells in an outdoor storage building for 20 years. Above 100 in the summer below freezing in the winter. You would think if any ammo would go bad those two would. They shoot just fine. Found a 7.62x39 round that had been laying on the ground outside for over 3 years. Tried it just to see. Fired just like regular. If no moisture is able to kill the primer or powder you are golden. Also bought some British 303 made back in the 50's. No telling how it was stored all those years. Shoots just fine.
Had some old shotgun shells crack and bulge. Slip joint pliers got them squeezed back into shape enough they slipped into my 22lr/20ga. Fired just fine. Got rid of a few more varmints.
Take a look at old rimfire cartridges from the 1860s and one sees white bullets and green copper cases. Heat can degrade certain propellants. When I was younger I had gone to a gun show and bought 1930s DWM 7.63mm caliber Mauser ammunition. I fired it in my Mauser pistol and one of the cases blew out at the base. It did some damage. It was repairable but the case was an old style balloon head case with Mercuric primers. I had the case analyzed by a gunsmith where I lived at the time and under the microscope he could see Mercury embedded into the brass so, he theorized that the Mercury had gotten into the brass case at the base and weakened the case. The message I get from old cartridges is as follows; as long as those old manufacturers use Mercuric primers and there were lots of them, I wouldn't use that ammunition. I didn't shoot any more of those DWM cartridges after that little accident.
Mercury fulminate breaks down with age, first by degrading into mercury cyanate (mercury fulminate is simply the unstable isomer of mercury and cyanide) and then the cyanide breaks down and leaves the mercury behind. That's how elemental mercury ended up in the copper case.
I shot up some of my Dads old 12 gauge shells. They were all the paper hulls with loads I don’t shot anymore. Probably made before WW2. They all went boom.
Okay, I'll be that person to say why you should not fire ammo you pick off the ground in the woods or elsewhere. One safety piece of advice I learned is never use handloaded ammo that you did not load yourself. I also learned that some that shoot 9mm for USPSA load for making power factor. One person said he never picks up brass off the range for reloading after a match because he does not want to risk case failure. He said some who hand load for 165 PF may load ammo that reaches 1,600 FPS so is more likely to suffer case failure if reloaded. I would not want to pick up any ammo that was hand loaded especially if it was loaded hot for 165 PF. Even if it is factory ammo I would want to know it was not recalled ammo. Norma/Geco have had 3 recalls for unsafe ammo this year alone in 9mm, .223, and 308.
I take all the range brass home, if the s o b that shot it and is too lazy to pick it up ,sure I'm sweeping it up. At home i sort it out, everything I don't load for is recycle brass and check for case damage, check the primer pockets for over size of all the brass I'm keeping. scrap is one way to lessen the price of ammo componence.
@@TUKByV I started buying Norma in November when the only negative reviews were from some whom reload who had to deal with smaller primer holes I think. Back in November through January there were few others with similar low prices. Since about February on there have been many more brands selling for the same price or lower than Norma/Geco so with the recalls and pricing I have been purchasing other brands since about March. I followed sales and discussing of qualify of ammo on the Gundeals group at Reddit. That group and others discussed the recalls and how poorly there were handled at times.
Some powders don't work well for long term use. I have some 44 Mag that I loaded with jacketed bullets with near max loads of 2400. I loaded these in the mids eighties. I moved around a bit and lost track of this ammo. After settling down I found this ammo. Upon shooting this ammo they all went bang but the cases were failing about 25% the cases split down the side. I talked about this with others on several forums and others have seen similar issues. So any more if I use 2400 I will only load small lots as needed.
I just gave a box of 38Colt Special to a re-enactor who shot them and said they were fine. They had been in my Grandmothers house since sometime before WW I. Yes, I said WW 1. I kept the box as a collectors item. She passed away in 1978 and they sat in my Dad's garage bench drawer since 1978 until 2019, when I brought them over to my house. The 15 loose ones I unfortunately destroyed and recycled the lead and cases. Powder went into my yard for fertilizer. The one box that went to the re-enactor were not stored in the best environment all the time, but shot perfectly fine! I keep my primers under 40% humidity and stored in sealed containers with a rechargeable desiccant pack inside just to help. I have some of my Dad's primers that are 50 years or more old and fire just fine. I also have a thousand or so of caps for a cap and ball revolver my Dad also has and stores at my house. Those, I need to test sometime. They are in tins and have been in an old baggie as long as I know. And yes, I'm old.
There’s really no expiration date for carefully kept modern ammo but.... one should be aware there’s some old ammo that requires caution-old British cordite rounds, 3rd world corrosive primer stuff and then there’s the time my brother set the woods on fire with some WWII Mauser rounds that may have been incendiaries.
If you live in dry climates it'll be good for longer than we'll all be around. High humidity places like FL though you're going to want to keep it sealed in an airtight container with a desiccant packet in there. The bigger the container the bigger desiccant packet you need (5, 10, 20 gram,etc) They have a 50 pack for 10 bucks on amazon. Even better is using a vacuum sealer with mylar type bags (not the plastic.) That's what I do for super long term storage. Toss a 10 gram desiccant packet in the bag, vacuum seal and toss it in a bucket. My great, great, great grand kids will be able to get tight groups with it (assuming they can actually hit the broad side of a barn..)
Got 100k rounds plus in ammo cans with silca gel packets stored in a huge tool box in a garage that is always between 50 and 75 degree. Some is 30 years old. All of it is the same as when I put it in...I never shoot any of it. Just check on it once in a while. The ammo I shoot is on a shelf in plastic ammo cans...
I'm thinking of a vacuum sealer & those bags for ammonnot intended to be used within this year. Just seal the box & all so to have the lot number for future reference then store them in ammo cans. Thoughts.
I have some 30-06 ammo from WWII that came in original package, in an sealed ammo can that I opened, shot some. I have sealed in in food saver bags that have been vacuum sealed. They shot fine in the 60's and I just shot got some out and shot them last weekend and still fine.
My father kept a loaded gun in his nightstand, and some bullets, for decades. This was way back in the 60's to 80's. I noticed later on that some of the bullets were coming loose from their shells. They weren't falling out, but were very loose. Why, I don't know.
sealed storage is great, but I have shot boxes of un-sealed ammunition that I had kept in my attic for over 30 years with not problem. The only problem I ever had was the lubricant on some lead bullet .22 LR ammo getting a little "gummy."
I completely agree with almost everything that one thing - THE GREEN CORROSION. THAT green is part of the casing soooooooo, enough corrosion and your casing wall weakens. THAT, my friends, is a safety issue.
Actually, that green stuff is Cupric Oxide, copper's version of RUST, and is more oxygen than copper. As long as the brass isn't pitted and was properly hardened when it was made, it's probably only a few molecules thinner and is totally fine.
@@johndavis3143 @John Davis Thank you but I all ready I knew that. I simply used the vernacular used in the video. Not a chemist..I'm an engineer. Just know corrosion does remove good metal for a less desirable byproduct.
I would love to see a video of you and Maggie shoot the old 41 ammo. I have picked up 22lr in the field where I shoot. The 22lr bullets were corded and after wiping off the corrosion dust the cartridges fired just fine.
A few years ago I shot 30-06 ammo in a John C Garand match. Targets were 2 at 200, 300 and 600 yards. I wan a 200 and the 300 yard targets. I was shooting St Loius armory 1954 ammo. 48 or 49 year old ammo and out shooting g fresh match ammo. Talked to soldiers who have been in the sandbox. They were given Des Moines Armory 1944 50 big ammo. Said it worked fine. In 2018 I shot 303 ammo dated 1918 using a SMLE rifle made in 1918 using target stands made in 1918. Once in awhile a round was a little slow to go off but it all fired.
Came across one of those 10 gun, gun safes, for $49.00, and turned it into ammo storage. Sealed up the holes, put an all natural desiccant bag in it, and ammo is always fresh as a daisy. Also use the steel ammo cans as well. Always try to use the older stuff first, like stored canned goods. You know we have all these young people that toss food because it is past the expiration date. They never had to use their senses to figure out if canned goods or dairy products have gone bad in their lives. So why wouldn't they think that ammo has an expiration date.
My Daddy bought several "Quarter-Keg" Cans of Dupont Black Powder (4-1/4 Lbs per Steel Can - they looked like cans of Paint) back in the 1960s; Two- cans each of 4F, 3F, 2F and 1F! After he left this World, I found them stacked in an Outbuilding (down inside some old Tractor-tires laid on the floor) and absconded with one of each. The seals on the cans hadn't been broken and my being an avid Flintlock Rifle Enthusiast, tried a bit of each of the 1F, 2F and 3F in my .50 Caliber Tennessee Flintlock Rifle and my .75 Caliber Flintlock Musket - the 4F was used strictly for the Priming Pan. 50+ Year-old Black Powder DOESN'T Expire! 😆
The only case that was bad is a 12 ga. Shotgun shell was in the bottom of a boat and gotten wet . Steel shot had rusted and pellets seized together and it blew up a new shotgun , keep shells dry !
I should be fine with my 11-12yo JHP that's been in my G26 without being fired lol. I do empty the mag every now and then to give it a break though. Rounds looks great.
My friend uses a 2013 era Ruger LCR .38spl with a red Lasermax laser. Home protection 🏠. He bought 1 25rd box of Corbon DPX 110gr nearly 10yr & still uses it. During the hectic 2020 🌏 pandemic period he also added 1 50rd box of 125gr Remington home defense JHPs. Never used. His Ruger LCR has held up. Only 200-300rd fired in it.
I had some 50-60 y.o. .303 British ammo that looked decent, but about 10% of the rounds would hang-fire for a fraction of a second. Not dangerous, but not a good thing for accuracy.
I have a Ruger Blackhawk in .41 magnum and they are really hard to find. Every time I do I buy them. I have been saving the brass in case I start reloading.
Beware of old greased lubed ammo. An uncle fed us old Canuck brand "grease lubed" 22lr ammo for years. 40 years ago it had a 10% miss fire rate and 20 years later it was up to a 50%. The SuperX of the same peroid is running at a 10% failure rate. My last full box is now just a collector's item.
As a Teen we put nickels and quarters on a Tree in the bark. And stand back and shoot holes in them with our 22lr Hahahah Duh kids. But i did use cover when i shot the Little lighter butane tank surrounded by fire ..... Cute little fire ball. SMoke Ring went straight up for Ever it was Black. I thought Oh here they come. So i waited at the end of the drive way. No one came. I miss the 80's Now.
I had 3 unused 50rd .357sig FMJ 125gr boxes, SIG Sauer from 2018 or so(spring). I took my .357sig barrel M&P 2.0 then fired up 2 boxes. They had a few .357s stick, cling to the package & a few cases(brass) were discolored, crud but the ammunition went 💥. As a rule, I prefer not to store any pistol rounds longer than 2yr. Practice or carry/ccw type. I store them in factory boxes. No GI metal cans.
Really l like reloading more now because my grandson helps me. Last year was super awesome. Grandson loaded his own ammo and killed a 7 point buck with it
I have fired rounds that were over 100 years old quite a few times. I live in the desert and ammo out here lasts longer than our old cars. When I lived in the south it was hit and miss.
I reload I have a small hand held stretch wrapper and wrap all my handloads in used factory boxes with data written on them I pulled out and shot a box I did 9 years ago and to brass was the same as the day I loaded it Just an option
I'd think that thermal cycling would be the most dangerous aspect of long-term (and by long-term I'm talking decades, not years) storage. Stick it in a shed that gets hot in the summer and freezing in the winter, and the granules of propellant are going to go through a daily heating up and cooling off that will cause the individual granules to eventually break up or flake off from all those repeated expansion and contraction cycles.
1shottv soaked gold dots in oil of a week he said said that around eight years old and they fired no problem. I trust you guys and I don't buy cheap ammo so I'm not worried about that stuff. But I need a couple of metal ammo cans to getting to the range.
I've been firing Turkish 8mm mauser ammo from the 1930s and 40s for over a year now, u cant shoot them out of a semiautomatic or it'll damage the gun but works fine in my 1948 Turkish mauser. I've also fired 30 40 year old paper shotgun shells with lots of corrosion on the brass like some I just hand forced into the chamber of my double barrel, they still fired and had a very strong sent of ammonia definitely cleaned the gun after that
I had some 1960s Turkish 30-06 M2 ball ammo that split the casing near the base and turned a nice stock into toothpicks from a Garand. I do not use Turkish ammo anymore.
@@mattschmitt9924 I heard that some of that stuff had been tumbled to clean the corrosion off the cases, which tumbled the powder into a much finer, faster burning grain size.
@@eloiseharbeson2483 Possible. I never pulled one apart to examine the powder to confirm or deny. I've heard of others pulling them and finding discolored and sometimes clumpy powder in them. The recoil was very noticably harder on that round. One of the scarier moments in my shooting 'career'. I only buy new production ammo now. Saving a few bucks ain't worth killing a gun or losing a finger or an eye.
Someone in our gun safety class told us that any ammo more than five years old sound be shot off asap because that was going to be bad soon... That was 15 yes ago I'd love for them to see this video... Lol... I knew they were dead wrong but I didn't want to make a seen and make them look miss informed in front of a class of 35 people.... Lol... I knew there were others in the class that also knew they were wrong. So the instructor handle it by telling everyone that life of a round depended on how they were stored....
Ammo may not expire, but the manufacturer's warranty does. During the 2020 shortage, I purchased ammo online from what I thought was a reputable online company. When I received the ammo, the boxes looked dated, so I called the ammo manufacturer. They looked up the lot numbers and said the lot numbers were from 1998 to 2001! And they said do not use it (obviously) as they only warranty ammo for 10 years.
It's warranted for 10 years of ignorant abuse. Once it gets out of their hands, they can't determine how the ammo ends up getting stored (a climate-controlled storage unit or Uncle Bob's shack out in back, who knows?) so they wash their hands of it ten years after it's out their door... ...still doesn't mean the ammo _has_ gone bad. It just coulda.
To the person "turning it in because it's expired", ammo isn't food, it's what gets food. If you have ammo you think is expired, I'll get rid of it for you.
While true, the only ammo I'd call 'expired' is old 20th century ammo with primers using fulminate of mercury in the compound. I think they stopped making them this way in the 1950s so your chances of getting any of those primers is rare. Primers using fulminate of mercury is extremely corrosive, and the gun needs to be cleaned asap to avoid problems. Also the brass cases cannot be used for reloading as a result of the corrosive qualities
@@leveractiongypsy1848 True that mercury fuliminate primers will break diwn and no longer work over time, but the corrosive ammo is the kind using potassium chlorate (or potassium perchlorate) as the primer.
This is the stuff used in oxygen candles, and when a potassium chlorate primer fires you are essentially sending a jet of superheated oxygen into your propellant. Needless to say, this makes chlorate primers _very_ reliable ignition sources, but the downside is the residue left behind (once that oxygen is driven out) is potassium _chloride_ which is a salt. Hence the corrosion danger.
Two simple rules.
1: Keep it cool.
2: Keep it dry.
Keep it secret.
Keep it safe.
I shot 20ga shotgun ammo a few years ago that was from the mid 60’s. They were clean and dry. They shot fine.
Yeah, most ammo is totally fine if stored even reasonably decent. The most vulnerable ammo are shotgun slugs. Moisture gets in through the front through the ribs/rifling of the slug and gets the powder and primer wet. You have to hot glue them if you want them to be waterproof.
@@JohnB-dr8skthat's a BLOODY lie
Keep it dry and under 100 degrees! Worked for me for the last 60 years, and my dad, and my grandfather! It can sit in the open on a shelf as long as it's dry!
I have 30-06 rounds that I bought from the CMP dated 1944. When I bought my first M1 I also bought 4 cases of ammunition in end block clips. Works fine.
Hey steve. Whats the mfg stamp?
Is it denver?
I'll see your 1944 and raise you a bandoleer of 1917 .30-'06 with corrosive primers that is still as shiny as it was made. And yes, it still shoots in my 6-digit '03 Springfield.
Yup. Me too. Including .30 M1 carbine ammo from the WWII years.
My Father bought a box of Winchester 380 Auto ammo in 1953 for the Astra 300 he had bought for my Mom and it sat in the bedroom dresser for decades and in 1995 he ask me to take the Astra and the ammo and see if it was still any good. I took the Astra 300 and the ammo to my local range and not only did all 50 rounds fire but all 50 hit the target at 50 feet, not all hit the middle but lets just say they all hit paper. After 42 years in a dresser drawer in the original box they were fine.
Had some from WW2 shot fine. Cleaned gun right after as it had corrosive primers.
Have some 357 mag hand loaded in 70’s worked great.
I remember awhile back there was talk of the gov't making ammo/powder companies put something in the powder to degrade it over time. My memory isn't good enough for me to remember if it was a rumor or a conspiracy or even what decade, but Pepperidge Farms remembers. Good luck and God bless.
Barbata BOXER from California floated an idea for legislation the PRIMERS should be compounded to degrade after a year. Just another AIR HEAD from CA running her mouth on and on with nothing inside her head.
The best is to cycle your ammo.
Use the old and hold your new.
Date your boxes as you buy them so you do not let it sit.
If only commercial ammo came date coded like the military surplus stuff.
@@eloiseharbeson2483
Ow ya. We need businesses to start being more responsible then the consumer.
Like we need the government to dictate what we can use for self defense.
I’ve been told the ammo that has been manufactured since 2019 will not work over time like the old ammo. Have you heard this ?
@@me5768 this is an old issue. The US military made the claim in the early 70's that primers in military ammunition would have a lifetime. It was an attempt to distract from the numbers of US manufacturerd weapons that ended up being used against our own troops. It was BS then and it's BS now. Any commercial ammo manufacturer that was rumored to be doing this would suffer a catastrophic loss of market share. That being said, the corrosively primed mil-surp seems to last longer than the non-corrosively primed commercial ammo.
@@me5768
Depends on the specs.
Ammo manufacturers do sometimes change things. Creating different results.
But after buying the ammo it is up to us to protect it till we use it.
We got ammo from the old DCM lake city dated from 40s 50s 60s never had a problem. I got some paper shots shells that still go boom . Like you said if it's stored right it will last a long time
I've shot .45 ball ammo from WW2 back in the 1970s and 1980s. Still in GI boxes, fired as well as in WW2.
I have some 1982 military surplus 7.62 NATO that I recently acquired. The cans still had their factory seal in place. It shoots just fine.
Got any for sale
For those who are unaware, brass casings will tarnish from exposure to the atmosphere. The green corrosion on brass is known as Verdigris which is chemical corrosion of the copper in the brass alloy. Some brass casings for revolvers are nickel plated. This is because in olden days when revolver cartridges were stored in leather belts, the brass would corrode to form Verdigris and would get stuck in the leather belt. However, nickel tends to resist corrosion better than brass does. The desiccant to use to absorb moisture from the air is known as Silica Gel. You can buy a small metal canister filled with Silica Gel to absorb moisture. Then when it becomes saturated with moisture, you simply heat it in the oven to dry it out and use it again. Firing dubious ammunition can be dangerous, because it is known that during war time, terrorism or sabotage, the enemy will treacherously leave ammunition available that has been tampered with by deliberately refilling it with explosive powder at an excessive pressure rating than the gun is supposed to fire. Consequently the unsuspecting shooter will have the gun blow up in his face, because the tainted ammunition was intentionally a small bomb.
Woman quit calling yourself dumb!!!! You obviously are a lot smarter than most
“ Booksmart” by a mile!!!!! Not to mention beautiful. Farmers daughter….,no makeup
Blue jeans no B/S! Keep goin Girl!!! God Bless!!!!!!!
Barney Fife was known to have the best looking bullet in Mayberry. 😁
That's because it was always new ammo!
That's Mark's Uncle Barney!! They both dated the (fun) girls too!!! Bahaaaaaaa
Still shooting my 1950's M1 Gurand surplus with no problems, bought a wooden crate about 40 years ago.
I have shot over one hundred year old 303 rounds. As long as they are stored right ammo lasts a very long time.
tim/////...So have I !!!!!!....It's all about storage !!!!!!
I did find a 38 special round on the ground when I was hunting in the 1970s and just fired it this year because I bought a revolver and it worked fine.
you 2 are so entertaining :) God bless you Both and your Family's
I have german 8MM ammo made in 1938 and it shoots great. The old ammo yha have to clean the gun soon but it still shoots good
I had 8mm run up in the 70's that was corrosively primed. Seemed to be full power stuff. Why the Soviets stuck with potassium chlorate primers into the 90's
I have fired 30-40 year old 9mm and 5.56 without a single failure. On the other hand some 30 year old shot shells could not be used because the plastic shells were falling apart.
I havesome early 80's 30-30 Winchester ammo that we have found cracks in the casing neck after firing ... haven't been able to explain that .
Cool Beans......Have not heard that expression for about 60 years.
It doesn’t get unstable and become an explosive.
Worst case is it’ll go Clic instead of Bang
Thats the scariest sound in the world when you needed to hear "bang".
@@MarvelousSeven if you’re using old milsurp or grandad’s attic’s finds for carry ammo…that clic is on YOU.
The closest thing to old propellant getting dangerous is coarse-grained black powder breaking down into smaller, finer granules that will burn faster. That's about it, though.
Another thing that might be possible is the sulfur in black powder forming sulfuric acid and contaminating a potassium chlorate primer. Chlorate's sensitivity to detonation increases when exposed to sulfuric acid and it could get bad enough to the point of spontaneous ignition. But you would need 1) A black powder cartridge with a chlorate primer; and 2) Sufficient humidity to somehow form sulfuric acid out of the black powder. That's a devil's brew of highly unlikely bad luck.
If you see green on a case loaded with smokeless powders that could indicate that the powder is decomposing. Smokless production incolves nitric acid that add nitro groups to the cellulose or glycerine if it is a double based powder. The process of degradation releases groups that act similarly to nitric acid. I got a head separation from such ammo. When I tried to pull a bullet to examine the powder on a second cartridge the case broke in half. That reloaded 30-06 in GI cases with 3031 powder was old and had been stored at high temperatures in an attic. It was accurate, but totally unsafe most likely due to storage conditions.
In the eighties I fired a LOT of ww2 dated 50 cal ammo (spam cans) ... it took care of business without problems ....
I def had some 22LR from 1984 and shot it a couple of years back and worked just fine.
I bought some ammo cans for some of my ammo. They have the rubber seal in it. Also, it is stored in my closet. When I buy ammo. I make sure it is the same grain. So, when I get home. I just dump them in my ammo cans.
I have run tarnished ammo through the tumbler For a short time, worked great.
Some pre world War 2 ammo with corrosive primers did not fire. Even older ammo that were kept dry did fire. I avoid old corrosive primer ammo because it requires too much cleaning of the gun.
I have shot 80 year old and never had a misfire, however I never use ammo older than 10 years old for hunting etc.
To me, Army veteran 4yr: 1990s, licensed security(armed), ccw a lot depends on the gun 🏭 ammunition. Some brands are low quality. I've seen older Remington Golden Saber that was ⬇️. 2010s. The big points are to store factory made ammunition in containers, boxes. Avoid damp, moist moldy environments, dust-lint. My carry ammunition, duty rounds I shoot up, replace every 4-6mo. Lint, grit, sweat, rain can seep into magazines, holders. Clean fresh 9mm .40 .45acp 10mm can help save your 🥓.
Short answer is no. Long answer is you need to inspect and maintenance your ammo as well as proper storage.
I have a Food Saver and store mine in vacuum packed bags with a couple of desiccant pads. But you have to dry the desiccant in the oven first.
Back in '98 I bought a Marlin Model 336 in .35 Remington from my retired employer. He had inherited it from his father who had died in '76. With the rifle came the ammunition that his father had purchased for his own use. The rifle was made in '52 so the ammunition must have been dated from some point in time between '52 to '76. I tested the rifle with the ammunition very soon after purchase, and all was well. A few years later, I noticed some frequent hangfires with the old ammunition. The cases were brittle too. Previously, I had used mostly mine own handloads. There were also a few failures to fire. I ended up pulling the bullets of the last 20 or so of the old Remington factory loads and trashing the cases, primers, and powder.
I had some ammo that got left in a leaky camper trailer. Threw away all the steel cases 7.62 that had severe rust on it. Fired some of the 22 LR through an old revolver and got a lot of split cases.
I use a 0000 steel wool pad and just give'em a scrub and they look brand new like fresh out the box 📦 💯🤘
Thanks for the tips 😁🫶
More of a concept than a reality. I had some 22LR and cheap plastic shotgun shells in an outdoor storage building for 20 years. Above 100 in the summer below freezing in the winter. You would think if any ammo would go bad those two would. They shoot just fine.
Found a 7.62x39 round that had been laying on the ground outside for over 3 years. Tried it just to see. Fired just like regular.
If no moisture is able to kill the primer or powder you are golden.
Also bought some British 303 made back in the 50's. No telling how it was stored all those years. Shoots just fine.
Had some old shotgun shells crack and bulge. Slip joint pliers got them squeezed back into shape enough they slipped into my 22lr/20ga. Fired just fine. Got rid of a few more varmints.
Take a look at old rimfire cartridges from the 1860s and one sees white bullets and green copper cases. Heat can degrade certain propellants. When I was younger I had gone to a gun show and bought 1930s DWM 7.63mm caliber Mauser ammunition. I fired it in my Mauser pistol and one of the cases blew out at the base. It did some damage. It was repairable but the case was an old style balloon head case with Mercuric primers. I had the case analyzed by a gunsmith where I lived at the time and under the microscope he could see Mercury embedded into the brass so, he theorized that the Mercury had gotten into the brass case at the base and weakened the case. The message I get from old cartridges is as follows; as long as those old manufacturers use Mercuric primers and there were lots of them, I wouldn't use that ammunition. I didn't shoot any more of those DWM cartridges after that little accident.
Mercury fulminate breaks down with age, first by degrading into mercury cyanate (mercury fulminate is simply the unstable isomer of mercury and cyanide) and then the cyanide breaks down and leaves the mercury behind. That's how elemental mercury ended up in the copper case.
In the 80s we were using Vietnam ammo and eating Vietnam food (and older c rations) and wearing Vietnam uniforms...
Some reloading powder is better for long-term storage than others check out your manuals for information.
I shot up some of my Dads old 12 gauge shells. They were all the paper hulls with loads I don’t shot anymore. Probably made before WW2. They all went boom.
Okay, I'll be that person to say why you should not fire ammo you pick off the ground in the woods or elsewhere. One safety piece of advice I learned is never use handloaded ammo that you did not load yourself. I also learned that some that shoot 9mm for USPSA load for making power factor. One person said he never picks up brass off the range for reloading after a match because he does not want to risk case failure. He said some who hand load for 165 PF may load ammo that reaches 1,600 FPS so is more likely to suffer case failure if reloaded. I would not want to pick up any ammo that was hand loaded especially if it was loaded hot for 165 PF. Even if it is factory ammo I would want to know it was not recalled ammo. Norma/Geco have had 3 recalls for unsafe ammo this year alone in 9mm, .223, and 308.
I take all the range brass home, if the s o b that shot it and is too lazy to pick it up ,sure I'm sweeping it up. At home i sort it out, everything I don't load for is recycle brass and check for case damage, check the primer pockets for over size of all the brass I'm keeping. scrap is one way to lessen the price of ammo componence.
Didn't know that about Norma, but I've heard enough about that brand before to avoid it. I can't afford to wreck a gun on bad ammo.
@@TUKByV I started buying Norma in November when the only negative reviews were from some whom reload who had to deal with smaller primer holes I think. Back in November through January there were few others with similar low prices. Since about February on there have been many more brands selling for the same price or lower than Norma/Geco so with the recalls and pricing I have been purchasing other brands since about March. I followed sales and discussing of qualify of ammo on the Gundeals group at Reddit. That group and others discussed the recalls and how poorly there were handled at times.
@@raykettel1837 that Reddit group is great!
Some powders don't work well for long term use. I have some 44 Mag that I loaded with jacketed bullets with near max loads of 2400. I loaded these in the mids eighties.
I moved around a bit and lost track of this ammo. After settling down I found this ammo. Upon shooting this ammo they all went bang but the cases were failing about 25% the cases split down the side.
I talked about this with others on several forums and others have seen similar issues.
So any more if I use 2400 I will only load small lots as needed.
Great job
I just gave a box of 38Colt Special to a re-enactor who shot them and said they were fine. They had been in my Grandmothers house since sometime before WW I. Yes, I said WW 1. I kept the box as a collectors item. She passed away in 1978 and they sat in my Dad's garage bench drawer since 1978 until 2019, when I brought them over to my house. The 15 loose ones I unfortunately destroyed and recycled the lead and cases. Powder went into my yard for fertilizer.
The one box that went to the re-enactor were not stored in the best environment all the time, but shot perfectly fine!
I keep my primers under 40% humidity and stored in sealed containers with a rechargeable desiccant pack inside just to help. I have some of my Dad's primers that are 50 years or more old and fire just fine. I also have a thousand or so of caps for a cap and ball revolver my Dad also has and stores at my house. Those, I need to test sometime. They are in tins and have been in an old baggie as long as I know. And yes, I'm old.
There’s really no expiration date for carefully kept modern ammo but.... one should be aware there’s some old ammo that requires caution-old British cordite rounds, 3rd world corrosive primer stuff and then there’s the time my brother set the woods on fire with some WWII Mauser rounds that may have been incendiaries.
If you live in dry climates it'll be good for longer than we'll all be around. High humidity places like FL though you're going to want to keep it sealed in an airtight container with a desiccant packet in there. The bigger the container the bigger desiccant packet you need (5, 10, 20 gram,etc) They have a 50 pack for 10 bucks on amazon.
Even better is using a vacuum sealer with mylar type bags (not the plastic.) That's what I do for super long term storage. Toss a 10 gram desiccant packet in the bag, vacuum seal and toss it in a bucket. My great, great, great grand kids will be able to get tight groups with it (assuming they can actually hit the broad side of a barn..)
You can use a food sealer machine to remove the air.
I had 200 rounds from 1965 THEY ALL WENT BANG I shot them last month
Sealed spam cans are always a plus.
Amen
Got 100k rounds plus in ammo cans with silca gel packets stored in a huge tool box in a garage that is always between 50 and 75 degree. Some is 30 years old. All of it is the same as when I put it in...I never shoot any of it. Just check on it once in a while. The ammo I shoot is on a shelf in plastic ammo cans...
💪
I'm thinking of a vacuum sealer & those bags for ammonnot intended to be used within this year.
Just seal the box & all so to have the lot number for future reference then store them in ammo cans.
Thoughts.
I have a bunch of .22lr stored that way. The bags are still sucked down so I don't think they are leaking.
Wrap them in bubble wrap first
Keeps the corners from poking holes in your vac bag.
Double seal both ends
I have some 30-06 ammo from WWII that came in original package, in an sealed ammo can that I opened, shot some. I have sealed in in food saver bags that have been vacuum sealed. They shot fine in the 60's and I just shot got some out and shot them last weekend and still fine.
I have some 45acp ammo from the late 70's and it shoots just fine.
I have 308 from the 50's, 200 grain winchester yellow box...shoots as if it was made yesterday
My father kept a loaded gun in his nightstand, and some bullets, for decades. This was way back in the 60's to 80's. I noticed later on that some of the bullets were coming loose from their shells. They weren't falling out, but were very loose. Why, I don't know.
sealed storage is great, but I have shot boxes of un-sealed ammunition that I had kept in my attic for over 30 years with not problem. The only problem I ever had was the lubricant on some lead bullet .22 LR ammo getting a little "gummy."
I completely agree with almost everything that one thing - THE GREEN CORROSION. THAT green is part of the casing soooooooo, enough corrosion and your casing wall weakens. THAT, my friends, is a safety issue.
Actually, that green stuff is Cupric Oxide, copper's version of RUST, and is more oxygen than copper. As long as the brass isn't pitted and was properly hardened when it was made, it's probably only a few molecules thinner and is totally fine.
@@johndavis3143 @John Davis Thank you but I all ready I knew that. I simply used the vernacular used in the video. Not a chemist..I'm an engineer. Just know corrosion does remove good metal for a less desirable byproduct.
I would love to see a video of you and Maggie shoot the old 41 ammo. I have picked up 22lr in the field where I shoot. The 22lr bullets were corded and after wiping off the corrosion dust the cartridges fired just fine.
A few years ago I shot 30-06 ammo in a John C Garand match. Targets were 2 at 200, 300 and 600 yards. I wan a 200 and the 300 yard targets. I was shooting St Loius armory 1954 ammo. 48 or 49 year old ammo and out shooting g fresh match ammo. Talked to soldiers who have been in the sandbox. They were given Des Moines Armory 1944 50 big ammo. Said it worked fine. In 2018 I shot 303 ammo dated 1918 using a SMLE rifle made in 1918 using target stands made in 1918. Once in awhile a round was a little slow to go off but it all fired.
Came across one of those 10 gun, gun safes, for $49.00, and turned it into ammo storage. Sealed up the holes, put an all natural desiccant bag in it, and ammo is always fresh as a daisy. Also use the steel ammo cans as well. Always try to use the older stuff first, like stored canned goods. You know we have all these young people that toss food because it is past the expiration date. They never had to use their senses to figure out if canned goods or dairy products have gone bad in their lives. So why wouldn't they think that ammo has an expiration date.
I've shot WW1 era 45 ammo that worked fine. It was pretty dirty, but went boom just fine.
When I was a kid I found some ammo in a cleaning kit and it was soaked in solvoil and dirt. Wiped it off with an old t shirt and it worked.
My Daddy bought several "Quarter-Keg" Cans of Dupont Black Powder (4-1/4 Lbs per Steel Can - they looked like cans of Paint) back in the 1960s; Two- cans each of 4F, 3F, 2F and 1F! After he left this World, I found them stacked in an Outbuilding (down inside some old Tractor-tires laid on the floor) and absconded with one of each. The seals on the cans hadn't been broken and my being an avid Flintlock Rifle Enthusiast, tried a bit of each of the 1F, 2F and 3F in my .50 Caliber Tennessee Flintlock Rifle and my .75 Caliber Flintlock Musket - the 4F was used strictly for the Priming Pan. 50+ Year-old Black Powder DOESN'T Expire! 😆
Great video!
I've fired 45 acp ammo from WW1. It all worked fine. It all depends on how ammo is stored.
Where I store my ammo, it is at 82* and 52% humidity and so far, no duds.
I spank my ammo. Before I shoot it. I disturb the internal fragments. I hate misfires.
I have a couple 41 magnum firearms. That's a great cartridge.
Thank you lady and gent!🙏🇺🇸👍
The only case that was bad is a 12 ga. Shotgun shell was in the bottom of a boat and gotten wet . Steel shot had rusted and pellets seized together and it blew up a new shotgun , keep shells dry !
I should be fine with my 11-12yo JHP that's been in my G26 without being fired lol. I do empty the mag every now and then to give it a break though. Rounds looks great.
My friend uses a 2013 era Ruger LCR .38spl with a red Lasermax laser. Home protection 🏠. He bought 1 25rd box of Corbon DPX 110gr nearly 10yr & still uses it. During the hectic 2020 🌏 pandemic period he also added 1 50rd box of 125gr Remington home defense JHPs. Never used. His Ruger LCR has held up. Only 200-300rd fired in it.
I had some 50-60 y.o. .303 British ammo that looked decent, but about 10% of the rounds would hang-fire for a fraction of a second. Not dangerous, but not a good thing for accuracy.
I have a Ruger Blackhawk in .41 magnum and they are really hard to find. Every time I do I buy them. I have been saving the brass in case I start reloading.
Beware of old greased lubed ammo. An uncle fed us old Canuck brand "grease lubed" 22lr ammo for years. 40 years ago it had a 10% miss fire rate and 20 years later it was up to a 50%. The SuperX of the same peroid is running at a 10% failure rate. My last full box is now just a collector's item.
As a Teen we put nickels and quarters on a Tree in the bark. And stand back and shoot holes in them with our 22lr Hahahah Duh kids. But i did use cover when i shot the Little lighter butane tank surrounded by fire ..... Cute little fire ball. SMoke Ring went straight up for Ever it was Black. I thought Oh here they come. So i waited at the end of the drive way. No one came. I miss the 80's Now.
I like making my ammo fresh. It always works.
I had 3 unused 50rd .357sig FMJ 125gr boxes, SIG Sauer from 2018 or so(spring). I took my .357sig barrel M&P 2.0 then fired up 2 boxes. They had a few .357s stick, cling to the package & a few cases(brass) were discolored, crud but the ammunition went 💥. As a rule, I prefer not to store any pistol rounds longer than 2yr. Practice or carry/ccw type. I store them in factory boxes. No GI metal cans.
Really l like reloading more now because my grandson helps me. Last year was super awesome. Grandson loaded his own ammo and killed a 7 point buck with it
If your worried about stock piling, vacuum seal it with a moisture packet
Yes, ammo does expire... The Second it's fired... Problem solved. 😁
I'm going to expire before my ammo does.....🤣😂🤣😂
I have fired rounds that were over 100 years old quite a few times. I live in the desert and ammo out here lasts longer than our old cars. When I lived in the south it was hit and miss.
POWDER last almost forever. BUT watch your Primers, They CAN go bad. Watch for the green around the primers.. Green might mean seal could be bad..
In the 90s I bought and shot a case of government surplus .30 cal. . 1200 and a few odd rounds 2 misfire. DOM 1917!!!!
I reload
I have a small hand held stretch wrapper and wrap all my handloads in used factory boxes with data written on them
I pulled out and shot a box I did 9 years ago and to brass was the same as the day I loaded it
Just an option
I'd think that thermal cycling would be the most dangerous aspect of long-term (and by long-term I'm talking decades, not years) storage. Stick it in a shed that gets hot in the summer and freezing in the winter, and the granules of propellant are going to go through a daily heating up and cooling off that will cause the individual granules to eventually break up or flake off from all those repeated expansion and contraction cycles.
7.62x54R from 1938 all went bang, no problem.
I have some 44-40 rifle ammmo thaat is 60 years old and still shoots just fine,also 12 gauge ammo that is 30 years old
I have a S&W 41 mag with an 8" stainless steel barrel. Send the ammmo over lol. Thanks for the information.
1shottv soaked gold dots in oil of a week he said said that around eight years old and they fired no problem. I trust you guys and I don't buy cheap ammo so I'm not worried about that stuff. But I need a couple of metal ammo cans to getting to the range.
I've been firing Turkish 8mm mauser ammo from the 1930s and 40s for over a year now, u cant shoot them out of a semiautomatic or it'll damage the gun but works fine in my 1948 Turkish mauser. I've also fired 30 40 year old paper shotgun shells with lots of corrosion on the brass like some I just hand forced into the chamber of my double barrel, they still fired and had a very strong sent of ammonia definitely cleaned the gun after that
Better you than me. I've seen a gun go and I don't like fireworks enough to risk another.
I had some 1960s Turkish 30-06 M2 ball ammo that split the casing near the base and turned a nice stock into toothpicks from a Garand. I do not use Turkish ammo anymore.
@@mattschmitt9924 I heard that some of that stuff had been tumbled to clean the corrosion off the cases, which tumbled the powder into a much finer, faster burning grain size.
@@eloiseharbeson2483 Possible. I never pulled one apart to examine the powder to confirm or deny. I've heard of others pulling them and finding discolored and sometimes clumpy powder in them. The recoil was very noticably harder on that round. One of the scarier moments in my shooting 'career'. I only buy new production ammo now. Saving a few bucks ain't worth killing a gun or losing a finger or an eye.
@@mattschmitt9924 Indeed! Never forget Paul Mauser.
I heard that some guy buried some in plastic peanut butter jars, would that even work?
I have picked up 22 lr ammo at the range in the rain, let it dry out at home a year and it fired.
Someone in our gun safety class told us that any ammo more than five years old sound be shot off asap because that was going to be bad soon... That was 15 yes ago I'd love for them to see this video... Lol...
I knew they were dead wrong but I didn't want to make a seen and make them look miss informed in front of a class of 35 people.... Lol...
I knew there were others in the class that also knew they were wrong. So the instructor handle it by telling everyone that life of a round depended on how they were stored....
So basically sealed ammo cans and your ammo will outlive you.
I had 250 22 magnum rounds brought in 2006 from cc’ing and 2022 shot some about 20% bad
Ammo may not expire, but the manufacturer's warranty does. During the 2020 shortage, I purchased ammo online from what I thought was a reputable online company. When I received the ammo, the boxes looked dated, so I called the ammo manufacturer. They looked up the lot numbers and said the lot numbers were from 1998 to 2001! And they said do not use it (obviously) as they only warranty ammo for 10 years.
Of course they would say that, they want to sell more ammo. Shoot it, it's still works fine.
It's warranted for 10 years of ignorant abuse. Once it gets out of their hands, they can't determine how the ammo ends up getting stored (a climate-controlled storage unit or Uncle Bob's shack out in back, who knows?) so they wash their hands of it ten years after it's out their door...
...still doesn't mean the ammo _has_ gone bad. It just coulda.
When they clean the ranges down hear they safe the unfired rounds found, clean'em up, butter'em up with more beeswax if necessary and shoot'em up.
Been shooting sks rounds made in the 40s+ 50s