You just saved me time and money. I was about to buy Gallery thinking I could spray the doors and drawers at my sister’s warehouse and rolls the bases at home. Yikes!
Interesting. I'm almost done painting my cabinets with the emerald urethane. Applied with a brush, then quickly went over with a dry or barely dampened small purdy white dove roller. Working in sections. Didn't take long at all to dry, but I'm in a dry climate. Looks sprayed. Couldn't be happier.
I’m doing almost all of the walls in my 48x48 shop (with 20 ft having enclosed mezzanine and several rooms under) with 3/4 inch sanded ply and BM Command. I’m in love with Command. Needs sprayed though. I’m finding no primer is needed. I can make it look like cabinetry if desired (doing this is certain spots, lot of it will be covered with shelving, Omniwall and cabinets though). Needs sprayed with fine finish tips though for that level.
Is it always essential to sand after 1st coat and put on a 2nd coat of SW Emerald Urethane trim enamel? I am in a garden home built in 2001. Original cabinets never painted over. Label reads CERTIFIED CABINET ANSI KCMA A161.1-1995. Legacy Cabinets LLC. Please Help😢
So sherwin owns sayerlack I’m just curious is the gallery the same product in different packaging , also I didn’t know the gallery has a crosslinker option, I just used the gallery for the first time on some trim and small cabinet in my opinion it has better vertical hang than kem aqua, thanks for the info in this video, been professionally wood and cabinets since 1980 using the old solvent systems
Seems to me after some use that the Gallery Series is a rebranded Sayerlack. Once you get the 2k waterborne stuff dialed in I promise you wont go back to solvent!
Can it be thinned and what do you spray it with, my airless produces way way too much overspray so like to use my automotive HVLP with a 1.8mm tip. I need to thin Advance to minimum of 10%
Great video. Iv been using Gallery Series for a bit now and love it. It’s self priming, I thin with tap water and don’t add anything else. I have not had any issues yet and have put it through a bunch of different situations.
What spray setup are you all using. We build custom range hood (painted/stained/cleared). Doing a single piece we're spraying small amounts so weve went the hvlp cup route We switched to BM cabinet coat from advance (whiter bases) achieving a solvent like finish when all goes well. But we get a lot of over spray due to ramping the gun to atomize the paint.
We use an air compressor (Very Large) with 3 water traps and an IR Refrigeration system to usually a 3M gun using the PPS system. We also use an Apollo gun and a Turbine system in the field
In addition to my former question has anyone shot Gemini Evo eclipse? Love to hear about your results GF Enduro poly vs. Evo. Note worthy. We use Stix for all our priming needs. Haven't found on better. Fastish, sanding amazing, great hide in two coats.
Actually just did a YouTUbe short talking about Insl-X. Its a great DIY friendly paint. I like spraying it over Roll. If going the brush/roll direction I think Emerald Urethane lays down and levels a little better IMO. But probably splitting hairs
Love GF white poly! not sure how it compares durability wise to EU but from handling both. I would think they are similar durability wise but have never durability tested side by side so cant say for sure. Both lay down nice and are easy to use.
This was a great video/listen. I'm way more than a DIYer but not quite a professional. When painting, I use SW Emerald for trim and cabinet doors and for clear coat, I've been using General Finishes High Performance Poly. I recently tested the Gallery Series as paint and am currently trying it as a clear coat. Have you done the Gallery Series product review yet?
I’m a Autobody painter and just helped a friend refinish his cabinets in KemAqua plus. They look great, I’m disappointed to hear that the hold out or durability in a kitchen isn’t that good. I will tell him to try and be careful. I am a bit confused is KemAqua a water based laquer,or a paint?
First off let me say Kem_Aqua is a good paint. It is a true cabinet paint. However its achilles heel is that it doesn't hold up great to water over time. It is a water based lacquer with no catalyzer. Over all it is a widely used product on cabinets and mill work. The areas where you see the break down over time is typically around sinks from washing dishes and hands.
Thanks, this is a great overview of cabinet paints. It is the first mention I've found (after considerable research) of using Sayerlack crosslinker with the Gallery Series paint. Gallery Series is the only KCMA cabinet paint that I have access to. Could you point me to any more resources on using the crosslinker? Do you plan to post a review of it anytime soon?
The crosslinker contains Aziridine. From what I understand, it's worse than dealing with diisocyanates found in catalysts. You're better off going with a 2k products, or use a system with a crosslinker that doesn't contain Aziridine. Also, you might as well order online. Every major North American/European brand can be shipped to you directly.
Extreme Block. Will do a much better job of tannin blocking. Refinish previously painted I would go extreme bond. Releasing a Renner vs Gallery Series video today
I know that a lot of people will use UV curing for waterbased products like Renner or Envirolak. Would that be an option of the Hollandlac paint? If so I wonder if anybody has tried that....
Wouldn't think so. It being an oil. But maybe. One of the reasons oil is good is because it takes so long to dry. But maybe something worth checking out
I know what your thinking. Spray the doors brush the boxes. If you can get an exact color and sheen to match thats your first hurdle. Your second hurdle is Side panels. You now have brush marks in your side panels and these beautiful sprayed doors right beside it. Can be done but IMO if your gonna spend the money for the best products go the extra step and make the whole project bomber
I'm a 30 year residential painter, I only do maybe 1 or 2 cabinet repaints a year. I started and learned using traditional alkyd base products like Benjamin Moore's Impervo or Sherwin Williams Pro Classic using an airless sprayer, and still usually do them that way. They are still available in my state, but I would kind of like to switch to a more modern coating. The problem is it seems like a big investment in terms of equipment and learning curve, and I do the doors on site in the garage usually. No one ever seems to compare the new 2k products to the old oil based ones, its always Emerald or Advance. In your opinion how do the old oil paints stack up?
Honestly as far as speed at which the 2k stuff dries compared to oil isn't even close. You can sand the 2k stuff in under an hour. The 2k stuff also cures much harder than oil. But yes the tools can be a little different but and airless will work for spraying the 2k stuff but make sure its crazy clean otherwise you will get cross contamination that shows up in your finish. We actually use different guns for oil and 2k just so we don't have a contamination issue.
@@caldwellpaintingThanks for the reply. I have a cabinet job coming up in a couple months. I think I'm going to give SW Gallery series a try. Probably use a high efficiency FF tip.
Do not use an airless for cabinets. Cabinets should be painted with high quality finishes. Airless equipment has a 40% transfer efficiency to the substrate AT BEST. Do you really want to waste 60% of an expensive finish? Not me. I’ve used airless and it’s good for large surfaces like walls on a house not for cabinets.
@@bingobunga8995 There is truth to what your saying about transfer rate. Lot of booth filters get filled up with all the wasted paint. However, for a lot of painters who only run a handful of cabinets a year it makes it really tough for that investment into HVLP or air assisted airless. So if thats the case an airless system with the right tip can get a passing grade.
Depends on the surface you are wanting the paint to bond to. Pro Block from Sherwin Williams is a great all around for EU. Just do a small section on the back of a door, wait a day then give it the scratch test. If you cant scratch it off then you are good to go!
@@JR-ho5qm Kem Aqua or Kem Aqua Plus? Those are two separate products ones lacquer the other is waterborne. Kem Aqua dries faster but Kem Aqua Plus probably dries the same as Gallery Series I gather
I painted all my doors and frames.on my house and repainted some door frames only with scuff x stock white and boy it's bright white compared to the doors
People need be aware these new 2k polys have isocyanates in the catalysts just because it doesn’t stink like the old school solvent based doesn’t mean it’s not toxic to your body. Isocyanates will absorb through your skin even with proper PPE. Good recommendation for those who want to try a two part system is conversion varnish. It is solvent based although. Sherwood High Build Pigmented Conversion Varnish is self sealing or the tried and true Sherwood Water White. Catalyst and varnish aren’t as expensive as these newer 2k poly products. On average about $80 per gallon including the amount of cat required or just be cheap and use pigmented vinyl sealer and a waterborne clear or pigmented 1k poly. I’ve used lots of Emerald Urethane and I no longer use it. It takes too long to dry and cure and it is overpriced for what it is. Use Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic or Acrylic coating. It dries much faster and cures faster too so you can stack and deliver.
The state of California doesn't list Isocyanates as a carcinogen just a possible irritant, and they list everything. Always a good idea to use PPE though.
You just saved me time and money. I was about to buy Gallery thinking I could spray the doors and drawers at my sister’s warehouse and rolls the bases at home. Yikes!
So glad we could help!! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Interesting. I'm almost done painting my cabinets with the emerald urethane. Applied with a brush, then quickly went over with a dry or barely dampened small purdy white dove roller. Working in sections. Didn't take long at all to dry, but I'm in a dry climate. Looks sprayed. Couldn't be happier.
Thats awesome! Great choice of product!
I’m doing almost all of the walls in my 48x48 shop (with 20 ft having enclosed mezzanine and several rooms under) with 3/4 inch sanded ply and BM Command. I’m in love with Command. Needs sprayed though. I’m finding no primer is needed. I can make it look like cabinetry if desired (doing this is certain spots, lot of it will be covered with shelving, Omniwall and cabinets though). Needs sprayed with fine finish tips though for that level.
Thats awesome! its a great product!
Is it always essential to sand after 1st coat and put on a 2nd coat of SW Emerald Urethane trim enamel? I am in a garden home built in 2001. Original cabinets never painted over. Label reads CERTIFIED CABINET ANSI KCMA A161.1-1995. Legacy Cabinets LLC. Please Help😢
Great professional informative video. Thanks !
Glad it was helpful!
So sherwin owns sayerlack I’m just curious is the gallery the same product in different packaging , also I didn’t know the gallery has a crosslinker option, I just used the gallery for the first time on some trim and small cabinet in my opinion it has better vertical hang than kem aqua, thanks for the info in this video, been professionally wood and cabinets since 1980 using the old solvent systems
Seems to me after some use that the Gallery Series is a rebranded Sayerlack. Once you get the 2k waterborne stuff dialed in I promise you wont go back to solvent!
PPG Breakthrough and Benjamin Moore Corotech Command are over Emerald Urethane and BM Advance. Faster dry time and harder finish.
Can it be thinned and what do you spray it with, my airless produces way way too much overspray so like to use my automotive HVLP with a 1.8mm tip. I need to thin Advance to minimum of 10%
Advance dries harder than command.
Great video. Iv been using Gallery Series for a bit now and love it. It’s self priming, I thin with tap water and don’t add anything else. I have not had any issues yet and have put it through a bunch of different situations.
Thats awesome! We just finished a Renner vs. Gallery Series video. Should be out in the next week or so.
You don’t prime at all? I’d be scared to risk that on a big cabinet job… You also thin it?
Waitin for it!
@@coyote208 ya our reps don’t suggest priming new wood,you can but not needed and have to thin 10% to go through our HVLP
What spray setup are you all using. We build custom range hood (painted/stained/cleared). Doing a single piece we're spraying small amounts so weve went the hvlp cup route
We switched to BM cabinet coat from advance (whiter bases) achieving a solvent like finish when all goes well. But we get a lot of over spray due to ramping the gun to atomize the paint.
We use an air compressor (Very Large) with 3 water traps and an IR Refrigeration system to usually a 3M gun using the PPS system. We also use an Apollo gun and a Turbine system in the field
In addition to my former question has anyone shot Gemini Evo eclipse? Love to hear about your results
GF Enduro poly vs. Evo.
Note worthy. We use Stix for all our priming needs. Haven't found on better. Fastish, sanding amazing, great hide in two coats.
That would be a great match up! Going to put that on my board of future videos
Just curious to hear your thoughts on brushed/rolled INSL-X Cabinet Coat for a DIY user...
Actually just did a YouTUbe short talking about Insl-X. Its a great DIY friendly paint. I like spraying it over Roll. If going the brush/roll direction I think Emerald Urethane lays down and levels a little better IMO. But probably splitting hairs
What about General Finish white poly paint sprayed from an airless sprayer? How does compare in durability to Emerald urethane?
Love GF white poly! not sure how it compares durability wise to EU but from handling both. I would think they are similar durability wise but have never durability tested side by side so cant say for sure. Both lay down nice and are easy to use.
This was a great video/listen. I'm way more than a DIYer but not quite a professional. When painting, I use SW Emerald for trim and cabinet doors and for clear coat, I've been using General Finishes High Performance Poly. I recently tested the Gallery Series as paint and am currently trying it as a clear coat. Have you done the Gallery Series product review yet?
I have gallery series samples all around me as i type this. Haven't done the review yet though, but its coming soon.
You’re nothing more than a DIYer if you use Emerald on cabinets
I’m a Autobody painter and just helped a friend refinish his cabinets in KemAqua plus. They look great, I’m disappointed to hear that the hold out or durability in a kitchen isn’t that good. I will tell him to try and be careful. I am a bit confused is KemAqua a water based laquer,or a paint?
First off let me say Kem_Aqua is a good paint. It is a true cabinet paint. However its achilles heel is that it doesn't hold up great to water over time. It is a water based lacquer with no catalyzer. Over all it is a widely used product on cabinets and mill work. The areas where you see the break down over time is typically around sinks from washing dishes and hands.
Thanks, this is a great overview of cabinet paints. It is the first mention I've found (after considerable research) of using Sayerlack crosslinker with the Gallery Series paint. Gallery Series is the only KCMA cabinet paint that I have access to. Could you point me to any more resources on using the crosslinker? Do you plan to post a review of it anytime soon?
Where do you get the crosslinker?
We get it from SW. Just ask your rep about it
The crosslinker contains Aziridine. From what I understand, it's worse than dealing with diisocyanates found in catalysts. You're better off going with a 2k products, or use a system with a crosslinker that doesn't contain Aziridine. Also, you might as well order online. Every major North American/European brand can be shipped to you directly.
For new cabinets raw wood, what primer would you recommend for Gallery?
Extreme Block. Will do a much better job of tannin blocking. Refinish previously painted I would go extreme bond. Releasing a Renner vs Gallery Series video today
I know that a lot of people will use UV curing for waterbased products like Renner or Envirolak. Would that be an option of the Hollandlac paint? If so I wonder if anybody has tried that....
Wouldn't think so. It being an oil. But maybe. One of the reasons oil is good is because it takes so long to dry. But maybe something worth checking out
would you ever use emerald for the boxes and and a 2k for the doors, and drawers?
I know what your thinking. Spray the doors brush the boxes. If you can get an exact color and sheen to match thats your first hurdle. Your second hurdle is Side panels. You now have brush marks in your side panels and these beautiful sprayed doors right beside it. Can be done but IMO if your gonna spend the money for the best products go the extra step and make the whole project bomber
Benjamin moore advance can be brushed perfectly
Yup. Great trim paint
Sherwin Williams Solo with an extender levels beautifully and looks factory finish...with a brush and roller.
Also a great product. However, great trim paint but don't love it for a cabinets long term
I like advanced paint through a harbor freight purple gun. Just thin it 5%
I'm a 30 year residential painter, I only do maybe 1 or 2 cabinet repaints a year. I started and learned using traditional alkyd base products like Benjamin Moore's Impervo or Sherwin Williams Pro Classic using an airless sprayer, and still usually do them that way. They are still available in my state, but I would kind of like to switch to a more modern coating. The problem is it seems like a big investment in terms of equipment and learning curve, and I do the doors on site in the garage usually.
No one ever seems to compare the new 2k products to the old oil based ones, its always Emerald or Advance. In your opinion how do the old oil paints stack up?
Honestly as far as speed at which the 2k stuff dries compared to oil isn't even close. You can sand the 2k stuff in under an hour. The 2k stuff also cures much harder than oil. But yes the tools can be a little different but and airless will work for spraying the 2k stuff but make sure its crazy clean otherwise you will get cross contamination that shows up in your finish. We actually use different guns for oil and 2k just so we don't have a contamination issue.
@@caldwellpaintingThanks for the reply. I have a cabinet job coming up in a couple months. I think I'm going to give SW Gallery series a try. Probably use a high efficiency FF tip.
Do not use an airless for cabinets. Cabinets should be painted with high quality finishes. Airless equipment has a 40% transfer efficiency to the substrate AT BEST. Do you really want to waste 60% of an expensive finish? Not me. I’ve used airless and it’s good for large surfaces like walls on a house not for cabinets.
@@jamiedorsey4167 Awesome! Let us know how it turns out!
@@bingobunga8995 There is truth to what your saying about transfer rate. Lot of booth filters get filled up with all the wasted paint. However, for a lot of painters who only run a handful of cabinets a year it makes it really tough for that investment into HVLP or air assisted airless. So if thats the case an airless system with the right tip can get a passing grade.
Where do you get the crosslinker for the Gallery Series?
Sherwin Williams has it. However, not all the locations maybe caring it. Just ask your local sales rep
Which primer is best to use with the Sherwin Emerald?
Depends on the surface you are wanting the paint to bond to. Pro Block from Sherwin Williams is a great all around for EU. Just do a small section on the back of a door, wait a day then give it the scratch test. If you cant scratch it off then you are good to go!
Gallery Series vs Kem Aqua Plus comparison please! I swear they are the same product!
I thought KemAqua dries faster no?
@@JR-ho5qm Kem Aqua or Kem Aqua Plus? Those are two separate products ones lacquer the other is waterborne. Kem Aqua dries faster but Kem Aqua Plus probably dries the same as Gallery Series I gather
Great Video idea!
best 1k paint/primer for raw MDF?
So we really like the Renner M083. Great 1k Primer
best paint for hand rolling boxes and frames??? ill never go back to EU whites because they yellow after 1 year or less
I’ve used EU for years. Mainly white cabinets.. I’ve never seen it yellow.. interesting
Havnt heard of EU yellowing. Very interesting. Going to ask around. Are you doing some kind of clear topcoat or anything?
@caldwellpainting nope but I haven't used it in 5 years so not sure if they changed the formula
I painted all my doors and frames.on my house and repainted some door frames only with scuff x stock white and boy it's bright white compared to the doors
People need be aware these new 2k polys have isocyanates in the catalysts just because it doesn’t stink like the old school solvent based doesn’t mean it’s not toxic to your body. Isocyanates will absorb through your skin even with proper PPE. Good recommendation for those who want to try a two part system is conversion varnish. It is solvent based although. Sherwood High Build Pigmented Conversion Varnish is self sealing or the tried and true Sherwood Water White. Catalyst and varnish aren’t as expensive as these newer 2k poly products. On average about $80 per gallon including the amount of cat required or just be cheap and use pigmented vinyl sealer and a waterborne clear or pigmented 1k poly. I’ve used lots of Emerald Urethane and I no longer use it. It takes too long to dry and cure and it is overpriced for what it is. Use Sherwin Williams Pro Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic or Acrylic coating. It dries much faster and cures faster too so you can stack and deliver.
The state of California doesn't list Isocyanates as a carcinogen just a possible irritant, and they list everything. Always a good idea to use PPE though.
Thats great! EU is a great product. In a professional shop if you can't sand it in under 30 minutes it takes "forever" to dry 😂
What they said! LOL
Did anyone count how many uhms
Trying to get better at it. Uhm just still feel kinda awkward in front of the camera. Hopefully there will be fewer soon
So BM adavanced sucks ?
Jk just heard you talking about it lol
LOL!
The repost time is ridiculous
No ICRO!?
Unfortunately no. Dont have any experience with them.