Would love to see testing on starting seeds in 6,9,12,14 tree pots. I have seen contradictory info. Does Root pruning of tap root leads to more side roots
Very cool! I look forward to hearing about your results. One comment: you have very small sample sizes, so that may exaggerate your results in either direction. Don't be afraid to repeat your experiments to confirm, especially if you are trying for a beneficial outcome.
Thank you for the feedback. I do plan on running more refined tests with larger sample size next year. At this point in time I'm doing some tests from 15 days to two years and others from 15 minutes to 45 days, so once I narrow down an area to focus on, the sample size will be increased significantly. Again, thank you for your feedback and interest!
If the plant grows wild from Canada to Texas I don't see how freezing seeds or not could be an issue. Definitely wild here in the midwest with at least a month bellow freezing and several days bellow 0 every winter.
I agree to a point. The difference is that seeds dropped to the ground is protected by leaf litter that drops from trees around it. I'm testing because I've heard many people even pawpaw experts say that the seeds lose viability if they freeze and when I ask "how long of a freeze does it take to lose viability?" no one can give me numbers. I've looked around for previous research and not found any (my guess is there is some out there somewhere, it's just not coming up in search engines).
@@greatescapefarms You would need to be neck deep in leaves to have any chance at preventing the seed from hard freezing here. Over a month with temps in single digits and dropping to -15 is hard to escape.
Hi Todd. Appreciate all your work. Please test scarification versus non-scarification. I scarify some of my seeds with sandpaper or my wife’s Emery board. I had big differences with Sea Buckhorn and hazelnut seeds. I never tried it with pawpaw seeds. Appreciate it. God bless!
Thank you for the comment. Some seeds do require scarification and others just do a little better with scarification. I've found that with pawpaw I get 95% + germination with just stratifying them. I don't believe that scarifying will change those results that much. Other than raising the germination rate up from 95%, do you see any other reason for scarification?
This is excellent, I've had the same questions for a long time. My pawpaws are only 2 years old so no fruit/seeds yet to experiment with. Please do more of this kind of thing with other somewhat rare fruits that grow in the north like Persimmon, Medlar, Che, etc:..
Thanks for the kind words. I've done videos on Che and Medlar before. I graft Che and Pawpaw. I've tried grafting medlar last year on 12 quince seedlings and none of them took. I'll get back to that in the future.
very cool and thanks for running these! pawpaw needs more people doing things like this. especially around ways to speed up growth/fruiting. im going to try grow tent growing seedlings indoors year round to try to make up time by skipping dormancy until. maybe it will trick their clocks somehow or just give us the extra few months of growing until mature enough for fruiting. then they can go outdoors. also, growing them hydroponically to try and speed things up. another thing fruiting pawpaw while in pots. i think the whole taproot thing is slightly overblown. people air prune pawpaw roots all the time which keeps the root ball compact and doesnt allow the taproot to do its thing. thanks for all the content!
You are most welcome. I've sped up growing seedlings in pots by watering every 3 days this past year under a 50% shade cloth. I some some seedlings as tall as 3' by September. I'll be doing that every year now.
@@derekfarealz I normally water once a week under the shade cloth. So this was about twice the usual amount. Pawpaws seem to be right hardy, but they seem to thrive with a lot of water.
Hi Todd Great to see this video and the tests you will be carrying out, very very interesting! I look forward to the results. Will you be covering grafting, using different techniques, at various times of the year? Also, these test can be varied using different binding techniques. Appreciate this could be a lot of effort!
That is not planned for this year. I've been experimenting with grafting but haven't posted any video of the process until I'm better at it and get more reliable results. I may give it a try next year. I was talking with Neal Peterson this year and he gave me a few ideas on different ways to graft.
Great video!
Thank you so much. I'm really enjoying the experimenting and looking forward to getting the results to questions I've had for a long time.
Would love to see testing on starting seeds in 6,9,12,14 tree pots. I have seen contradictory info. Does Root pruning of tap root leads to more side roots
@@huguesdemol8308 depending on how many of the seeds take, I may be able to give this a shot next year. Thanks for the suggestion!
Very cool! I look forward to hearing about your results. One comment: you have very small sample sizes, so that may exaggerate your results in either direction. Don't be afraid to repeat your experiments to confirm, especially if you are trying for a beneficial outcome.
Thank you for the feedback. I do plan on running more refined tests with larger sample size next year. At this point in time I'm doing some tests from 15 days to two years and others from 15 minutes to 45 days, so once I narrow down an area to focus on, the sample size will be increased significantly. Again, thank you for your feedback and interest!
If the plant grows wild from Canada to Texas I don't see how freezing seeds or not could be an issue. Definitely wild here in the midwest with at least a month bellow freezing and several days bellow 0 every winter.
I agree to a point. The difference is that seeds dropped to the ground is protected by leaf litter that drops from trees around it. I'm testing because I've heard many people even pawpaw experts say that the seeds lose viability if they freeze and when I ask "how long of a freeze does it take to lose viability?" no one can give me numbers. I've looked around for previous research and not found any (my guess is there is some out there somewhere, it's just not coming up in search engines).
@@greatescapefarms You would need to be neck deep in leaves to have any chance at preventing the seed from hard freezing here. Over a month with temps in single digits and dropping to -15 is hard to escape.
Hi Todd.
Appreciate all your work.
Please test scarification versus non-scarification.
I scarify some of my seeds with sandpaper or my wife’s Emery board.
I had big differences with Sea Buckhorn and hazelnut seeds. I never tried it with pawpaw seeds.
Appreciate it.
God bless!
Thank you for the comment. Some seeds do require scarification and others just do a little better with scarification. I've found that with pawpaw I get 95% + germination with just stratifying them. I don't believe that scarifying will change those results that much. Other than raising the germination rate up from 95%, do you see any other reason for scarification?
Thanks for your reply.
Makes total sense.
I enjoy your experiments.
Newly subscribed & looking forward to your videos.
This is excellent, I've had the same questions for a long time. My pawpaws are only 2 years old so no fruit/seeds yet to experiment with. Please do more of this kind of thing with other somewhat rare fruits that grow in the north like Persimmon, Medlar, Che, etc:..
Thanks for the kind words. I've done videos on Che and Medlar before. I graft Che and Pawpaw. I've tried grafting medlar last year on 12 quince seedlings and none of them took. I'll get back to that in the future.
very cool and thanks for running these! pawpaw needs more people doing things like this. especially around ways to speed up growth/fruiting. im going to try grow tent growing seedlings indoors year round to try to make up time by skipping dormancy until. maybe it will trick their clocks somehow or just give us the extra few months of growing until mature enough for fruiting. then they can go outdoors. also, growing them hydroponically to try and speed things up. another thing fruiting pawpaw while in pots. i think the whole taproot thing is slightly overblown. people air prune pawpaw roots all the time which keeps the root ball compact and doesnt allow the taproot to do its thing. thanks for all the content!
You are most welcome. I've sped up growing seedlings in pots by watering every 3 days this past year under a 50% shade cloth. I some some seedlings as tall as 3' by September. I'll be doing that every year now.
@@greatescapefarms you should do a video on it. does that mean you were watering more or less than usual?
@@derekfarealz I normally water once a week under the shade cloth. So this was about twice the usual amount. Pawpaws seem to be right hardy, but they seem to thrive with a lot of water.
@@greatescapefarms hopefully they enjoy my hydroponic setup 😁
@@derekfarealz I'd love to hear about that or watch a video on it if you have it.
Hi Todd
Great to see this video and the tests you will be carrying out, very very interesting! I look forward to the results.
Will you be covering grafting, using different techniques, at various times of the year? Also, these test can be varied using different binding techniques. Appreciate this could be a lot of effort!
That is not planned for this year. I've been experimenting with grafting but haven't posted any video of the process until I'm better at it and get more reliable results. I may give it a try next year. I was talking with Neal Peterson this year and he gave me a few ideas on different ways to graft.
All of the effort on propagation seems funny to me based on the dozens of pawpaw trees that crop up on my property all by themselves :)
You are lucky to have that problem. Many struggle to get pawpaw to take hold.