I use a piece of tape under the top when I glue so I don't drip. One thing you don't want to do is glue the clamp cawl on the top. I use a UMWH nylon or plexiglass for my cawl. A piece of wax paper will also work. And to all our followers , we invested in more cameras and will soon be shooting more video . Thanks for all the suggestions. We also have a new close up and overhead camera. We can't wait to use it.
A tip to all.Don't forget to lay a paper towel inside the guitar under the bridge. If glue should pass through the peg holes it will land on the paper and not stick inside to the back.
that is my inlay tool that I use. Yes the tape is compensated for as I use the tape to avoid scratching the top. I gauge the depth at the hole drilled for the bridge. I can see when I get to the wood and through the finish.
What type is that little router you are using? Do you compensate for the thickness of the tape when routing the recess? Thank you for a very informative video.
I will let my inexperience shine with a question of curiosity. Any reason to not use go bars to clamp the bridge, other than the fear of slipping and dinging the top ? Thanks for all yor great videos ,and sorry for the dumb question !
This is one of the most important joints on the guitar. The Bridge , Top and Bridge plate are all integral to allowing the strings to transfer the energy to the top. Just using a go bar , you don't have the sandwich of the top clamped and if you don't have a perfect joint , you will create gaps. By using a caul under the bridge and the clamps on top the bridge is secured and the risk for glue void minimized. I guess if you put support under the bridge area to assure mating , it could work. It is all about the joint integrity.
Good job. John Hall, any relation to the "RIC" John Hall, Ha!? What I do to avoid "Skating", is to select the appropriate matching diameters of Drill Bit, and Coat Hanger, (currently using .070 dia.), and after drilling this diameter at both ends of my bridge SADDLE SLOT, I push the Coat Hanger "Pins" through enough to engage the holes in the top, then locate the bridge, and then push the pins in level with the bridge top. Pins should ideally protrude approx 1/8" from bridge bottom while being flush with top. This allows for all clamping with locator pins intact. After gluing, pins can usually be easily removed with needle nose pliers, or by first touching them with a soldering iron tip. Just sayin' Gb bg
+george scarlett no relation . What I am doing now is once I predrill the holes 3/16 bit I use a 10/32 flat head screw 5/8 long to pin the bridge and keep from skating. You method will do the same thing. Thanks for sharing.
when i need to learn i just watch you.thanks so much .
Stephen Quail thanks Glenn and I want to have you all enjoy the info
I use a piece of tape under the top when I glue so I don't drip. One thing you don't want to do is glue the clamp cawl on the top. I use a UMWH nylon or plexiglass for my cawl. A piece of wax paper will also work.
And to all our followers , we invested in more cameras and will soon be shooting more video . Thanks for all the suggestions. We also have a new close up and overhead camera. We can't wait to use it.
Love these videos. they are very helpful. Just wish that the close up shots were bigger or flipped so that the wide shot was in the box
For future videos, I will make the close-ups much larger
Thank you John nice job!
Parabéns, eu estava a muito procurando aulas assim.
thanks guys always great info!!#
A tip to all.Don't forget to lay a paper towel inside the guitar under the bridge. If glue should pass through the peg holes it will land on the paper and not stick inside to the back.
that is my inlay tool that I use. Yes the tape is compensated for as I use the tape to avoid scratching the top. I gauge the depth at the hole drilled for the bridge. I can see when I get to the wood and through the finish.
beautiful sir
What type is that little router you are using? Do you compensate for the thickness of the tape when routing the recess? Thank you for a very informative video.
Thank you for these wonderful instructional videos! Can you tell what machine you are using to route the bridge placement?
that is the inlay Tool I designed. You can use a dremel tool or just scrape.
How hard do you clamp it down?
thank you
does the caul have to have a radius to match the top? so it dont flatten the soundboard while applying pressure? thanks
I will let my inexperience shine with a question of curiosity. Any reason to not use go bars to clamp the bridge, other than the fear of slipping and dinging the top ? Thanks for all yor great videos ,and sorry for the dumb question !
This is one of the most important joints on the guitar. The Bridge , Top and Bridge plate are all integral to allowing the strings to transfer the energy to the top. Just using a go bar , you don't have the sandwich of the top clamped and if you don't have a perfect joint , you will create gaps. By using a caul under the bridge and the clamps on top the bridge is secured and the risk for glue void minimized. I guess if you put support under the bridge area to assure mating , it could work. It is all about the joint integrity.
Good job. John Hall, any relation to the "RIC" John Hall, Ha!? What I do to avoid "Skating", is to select the appropriate matching diameters of Drill Bit, and Coat Hanger, (currently using .070 dia.), and after drilling this diameter at both ends of my bridge SADDLE SLOT, I push the Coat Hanger "Pins" through enough to engage the holes in the top, then locate the bridge, and then push the pins in level with the bridge top. Pins should ideally protrude approx 1/8" from bridge bottom while being flush with top. This allows for all clamping with locator pins intact. After gluing, pins can usually be easily removed with needle nose pliers, or by first touching them with a soldering iron tip. Just sayin' Gb bg
+george scarlett
no relation . What I am doing now is once I predrill the holes 3/16 bit I use a 10/32 flat head screw 5/8 long to pin the bridge and keep from skating. You method will do the same thing. Thanks for sharing.
+Glenn LaSalle No prob., enjoyed your video as well. Maybe someday my shop will be clean too, but then again, LOL!. Gb bg
I do them like martin and do my top flat not radius caul .