The lacquer builds up on that side of the fret because when the necks are lacquered they hang them from the headstock so the lacquer will run down a little with gravity. Great video 👍
That’s very cool but so much information left out as I am interested in knowing how to do this. I work on my guitars but have never refretted one. Why else would I watch this video? All the tools and where to get them? details on your sanding finishing technique etc. even the shape of the frets you were changing would have been an interesting place to start.
The one and only thing I really dislike on Fender guitars are the oversprayed frets. After some time of playing the instrument the lacquer will start to partially chip off the frets what results in noticeable string action impreciseness and forces one to sand or file off the residues. Great video as always though!
I noticed you didn't show where you send down the edges of the fretboard where the Tang might be sticking out. How do I do that without messing up the lacquer?
Very nice job. I sent my PRS custom 24 which has super tiny frets to a place here in the US hoping they would change them to larger steel frets and they said they wouldn’t even do it because they didn’t want to risk chipping the side lacquer finish on the rosewood board. Ugh.
Did you have to deepen/widen the frets for the new fretwire? What fretwire did you use because fender's fretwire tend to have smaller tangs compared with some of the other popular brands. Also no gluing in the new frets?
If the neck was hung from the headstock while the lacquer was being sprayed, gravity would force the lacquer to gather on the top side or headstock side of each fret, and pull or fall away from the opposite side of each fret.
Nicely done! Would this be able to do on a full scalloped Neck? Like the early Yngwie Malmsteen Strats with like zero wood at the sides of the frets (falling directly into the curve).
My guess as to the lacquer being thicker on one side is that when the neck was sprayed and hung to dry (usually by the tuner holes) gravity pooled the lacquer against the fretwire before it cured.
Do you treat the open wood underneath the frets before installing the new ones? Like removing the loose finish and maybe a thin coating like thin superglue? The wider frets hide it, but what are you doing when you refret with the same crown width? I'm constantly postpone refretting a Peavey T60 that I bought under the influence of severe G.A.S. The previous owner was a heavy smoker, I cleaned it all up put the owner tried to make a second nut in the money maker region with his death grip. I won't do a refinish cause I might loose the slightly protruding dots that are added on top of the fretboard but before the finish. The tip with the regular scalpels helps, thanks. Btw...what tang-width (measured with or without the barb) for which fretslot? How much oversize?
There are a number of compromises that may need to be considered when refretting a lacquered neck. Ideally, the frets should be just slightly wider than the original. This makes for a neater finish. I don't do anything to the un-lacquered fretboard that is under the frets.
Thanks John. I think you are referring to the microfiles. I use these almost every day on frets. They come in several different grits. There are other ways of polishing frets but these work for me.
Isn't the reason the boards need refinishing down to them also needing to be re-radiused by the time new frets are required? In your experience can you get 1-2 refrets in without needing to radius the board? This kind of technique is good if you're just changing a few frets etc?
I have the same neck on my Strat. I've always wondered if oil for fingerboard protection has sense once the fingerboard itself is coated with paint.. What do you think?
What is the tool you used for cutting the frets from the side?What brand are they? Where can I purchase them?Would love to have a pair of them. I always use the traditional cutter and seems to be more work. Those look like they cut a lot closer to fretboard. Thank you love your video’s.
They're made by Summit Tools, which you can find on Jescar's website at jescarguitar.com. Or go here: www.jescarguitar.com/summit-tools/ It's called the "Straight Overhang Fret End Cutter," and can be found here: www.jescarguitar.com/shop/summit-straight-overhang-fret-end-cutter/
Great clear video! I noticed that you didn't heat the frets up with a soldering iron before removal, have you ever used an iron or is this your recommend method?
Thanks Trev. When working with rosewood and ebony I generally do use a soldering iron as it softens the wood fibres and helps to prevent chipping. I have used a soldering iron on maple fretboards but you have to be really careful not to overheat the fretwire as this can cause the lacquer each side of the wire to bubble.
When making my own guitars I do. When refretting a guitar it depends on the width of the fret slot and the width of the fretwire tang. On bound fretboards I will always add a dab of glue to the ends of the fretwire at the very least.
I’m abt to do my first lacquered Fender neck refret. And I’m wondering how u did the side bevel w/o damage to the fretboard. I usually take the side bevel down just into the fretboard then I roll the edge in btwn the frets. Obviously u can’t do that w a lacquered board. How did u solve this problem?
I think this is the most challenging part of refretting a lacquered fretboard, particularly as nearly all the refrets I do now are with SS frets. I have tried multiple techniques over the years. I suspect that what I do now is somewhat different from the process shown in this video. Now I undercut the tang a little. I therefore dont have to dress the tang once the new frets are installed. I also lay masking tape just below the fret ends. As I bevel the fret ends I know that I have gone as far as I can once my file or diamond stone touches the tape. Hard to describe this technique in words.
Can I just say its really refreshing to see you do this job 'old school' with like 4 tools. No nonsense! I'm astonished by how much people pay for a refret these days and what is actually involved (about 2 hrs of work).
@@FacFerSch Unless they were sideways installed or its a vintage guitar with a ton of previous re-frets, or the board is wrecked or divoted to oblivion, 2 hrs is a very reasonable amount of time in my experience tbh. It takes
@@cgavin1 Its amazing that a setup takes you an hour and only 10m to radius, cut, tap and pressing the frets. And only another 10 minutes to finish the fret ends. Well, it definitely takes me a lot more than you. But hey, if people pays and is satisfied with your job, theres nothing else to say!
@@FacFerSch As I said, its an industrial process. If I am doing fret jobs, then everything is prepared in advance wherever possible. Every piece of equipment is prep'd. I have refined things quite considerably compared to, for example, the techniques used in this video.. The single biggest time saver is a) good quality tools and having a high level of familiarity with both them and the characteristics of the wire (I use only one brand of wire and only two kinds of wire from that one brand) and b) Saving as much time as possible by being effective and economical with tasks that others turn in to 'art'. e.g. pressing frets. If you tap in the fret ends then press the frets in to position, if done skilfully (very much experience based) with the right tool, you can almost entirely eliminate the need to level/radius afterward. Spot levelling is all that is required 90% of the time. If you are surprised how quickly I work, how long do you think production managers allow staff to complete similar tasks in the factory? How many production guitars end up having warranty work for bad frets? Its not nearly as many as you might think. What do you think is the relative skill/experience/give a shit quotient of those production operatives? And PLEK is still very much only a high end thing (although that is changing).
Wish I'd watched this yesterday... 😕 Lovely job. Well, it didn't go quite as smoothly for me as your demonstration. I didn't think about using a rounded scalpel. I slipped twice with mine and caused a couple of scratches early on. I used a soldering iron to heat the frets up, but was interested to see you didn't. Your fret snipper looks interesting. Is that a home-made invention? BR and thanks
Matt, that is one of the first videos I made (6 years ago) and I suspect that if I watched it now I would find that some of my techniques have changed. I still dont heat the frets when removing frets from a maple board. It is very easy to scorch the finish adjascent to the fret. If you are referring to the fret end cutters, I rarely use them now. Most of the refrets I do now are with stainless steel fretwire, and I don't think that tool can cope with SS.
Hi! Thanks for the reply. Yeps, I also scorched the wood under the end of one fret 😞 Well, live and learn. I'm a bit relieved I was able to have a go first on this 2019 Mexican Strat before I take on my dear old 86 Telecaster. Think I'll leave the soldering iron on the shelf. Anyway! Thanks again for the great video and tips.
Hello. Great video. Do you know what year this strat was? Is it a reissue or vintage? I have a 59' that needs a refret but I am concerned about them having been installed sideways.
Weird, those frets look big enough for me. Actually stock frets on my LP are even smaller... Anyway you didn't tell how to avoid damaging lacquer when removing sharp edges. I see you didn't even use masking tape, is that you just eyeball when to stop?
Yes, perhaps that part of the video needed further explanation. There are a couple earlier stages to dressing the fret ends that is not shown. The whole process properly dresses all the fret ends but without damaging the lacquer. The small file i am using doesn't damage the lacquer. Dressing fret ends on a lacquered fretboard takes a lot longer than it does on rosewood or ebony boards.
@@flameguitars5770 I see, thanks. Just noticed that fret edges on my MIM Strat are sharper than I'd like them to be and want to fix that myself. Seems like I just need to find file like yours...
Often, I find that the fretboards are not straight so I spend some time with a levelling beam sanding and straightening, then re-establishing the radius. Obviously this results in having to reapply lacquer once refretted. But refretting is like major surgery anyway, so I don’t mind. Do you ever do this?
This is one of my early videos. Poor lighting and white balanced. Haven't watched this video for a long time so I suspect my technique has changed somewhat. I agree that proper prepping of the fretboard is essential to achieving a good refret. And new frets dont always sit well on the existing finish, particularly if the new frets are wider than the original. I don't strip off the lacquer. I just accept that I will have to do more levelling.
You only touch/scratch the fretboard if you've got long nails or you're pushing down too hard on the strings. The string/your fingers should never really come into contact with the fretboard when you play.
There's more lacquer on the headstock side because when they lacquered it they hung it from the headstock there for gravity cause more lacquer to be accumulated there.
I've done some successful re-fretting jobs - but with way less tools than you have. I've never done a lacquered neck though. I own a Strat with a lacquered Maple neck and this job may be in my future for myself. Can you suggest where I might buy some of these tools that you use (the fret roll, the fret press, the fret dressing tool, etc). Great video - I'd love to do this again for a living now that I'm retired (35 years as a boilermaker). 💖
I may have not included this just to keep the video a bit shorter. But any recrowning I do when fretting or refretting a guitar is now minimal. By frequently checking when installing the frets that they are level in relation to adjacent frets, I can ensure that I only have to lightly run a diamond stone over the top of the frets once they are all installed. There is always some recrowning to be done, but only on a few frets.
What no hard sell? No product placement? No give me money on Patreon? Not even the Subscribe and thumbs-up plee? Guess I'll just have to enjoy somebody doing a nice job of a refret then.
Lots of special tools needed, and no explanations of the steps after 4:47. I wouldn't have bothered watching the first bit had I known that when I started.
The lacquer builds up on that side of the fret because when the necks are lacquered they hang them from the headstock so the lacquer will run down a little with gravity.
Great video 👍
im sure you are correct
you showed great patience here and it paid off w/ those clean slots. IMPRESSED.
Beautiful work. I like the attention paid to the fret-ends.
What a great luthier, I really enjoying your videos.
Free-hand bevel ! Total pro... Immaculate job , your patience is inspiring
Thank you David
So satisfying to watch ... Amazing skills congrats.
you have inspired me to try to DIY this... them refret jobs are more expensive than guitars
Always love your videos.
That’s very cool but so much information left out as I am interested in knowing how to do this.
I work on my guitars but have never refretted one.
Why else would I watch this video?
All the tools and where to get them?
details on your sanding finishing technique etc.
even the shape of the frets you were changing would have been an interesting place to start.
Thanks for the great video. Liked and subscribed.
The one and only thing I really dislike on Fender guitars are the oversprayed frets. After some time of playing the instrument the lacquer will start to partially chip off the frets what results in noticeable string action impreciseness and forces one to sand or file off the residues.
Great video as always though!
Lovely job!
Great work! More vids please!
There's more lacquer on that side probably because the neck was hanging while being sprayed
Spot on, I was going to say the same thing
Or the sprayer was left handed
Thanks this gives me an idea on how to refret some vintage peavey's I just bought.
I have a t-27 I'm about to refret. It will be my first
I noticed you didn't show where you send down the edges of the fretboard where the Tang might be sticking out. How do I do that without messing up the lacquer?
Great job!
That was therapeutic watching that!
EXCELLENT...Thank you.
Nice job
Very nice job. I sent my PRS custom 24 which has super tiny frets to a place here in the US hoping they would change them to larger steel frets and they said they wouldn’t even do it because they didn’t want to risk chipping the side lacquer finish on the rosewood board. Ugh.
If they are afraid of that id be scared to send my guitar in for a refret lol
Ha! Those frets are better than mine before the refret lol
Nice video, informative and nicely cut. Thanks
So I just need to believe in my local luthier to restring my lackuered rosewood tele fretboeard.
Lacquered Rosewood fretboard? Never seen that before...
@@acehandler1530 I believe some Rickenbackers have lacquered rosewood
@@EduardoVelezIII All my years of playing and fixing guitars I've never fondled a Ricky 🙂
Do you have to roll the fretwire based on the radius of the neck or does it just need to be close? Then how do you do a compound radiused board?
Did you not crown the frets?
Did you have to deepen/widen the frets for the new fretwire? What fretwire did you use because fender's fretwire tend to have smaller tangs compared with some of the other popular brands. Also no gluing in the new frets?
If the neck was hung from the headstock while the lacquer was being sprayed, gravity would force the lacquer to gather on the top side or headstock side of each fret, and pull or fall away from the opposite side of each fret.
Makes sense
Exactly what I thought too.
Me you and the Animal spaceplace.nasa.gov/what-is-gravity/en/
If the neck was hung from the headstock, it’s in a vertical position.
Nicely done! Would this be able to do on a full scalloped Neck? Like the early Yngwie Malmsteen Strats with like zero wood at the sides of the frets (falling directly into the curve).
I cant think of any reason technically why this couldn't be done on such a neck.
How would you go about refretting an acoustic where the finish covers the fret tangs down the side of the fret board?
How do you ensure frets dont lift out?
nice but would like to see one with stainless jescar frets ;)
Tell me kind sir, Have you ever seen Fender maple fretboards with a thin maple veneer over the top of them? Thanks in advance from Oz!
My guess as to the lacquer being thicker on one side is that when the neck was sprayed and hung to dry (usually by the tuner holes) gravity pooled the lacquer against the fretwire before it cured.
I'm sure you're right Tony
And btw, thanks for posting such an informative video!
Interesting. I imagined it was sprayed more from one end of the neck than the other.
No recrowning?
thats fine doing it like that if its not a 70's Strat where they piled on the lacquer so thick it chips??
are these XJ frets? they look awesome. thx
Do you treat the open wood underneath the frets before installing the new ones?
Like removing the loose finish and maybe a thin coating like thin superglue?
The wider frets hide it, but what are you doing when you refret with the same crown width?
I'm constantly postpone refretting a Peavey T60 that I bought under the influence of severe G.A.S.
The previous owner was a heavy smoker, I cleaned it all up put the owner tried to make a second nut in the money maker region with his death grip. I won't do a refinish cause I might loose the slightly protruding dots that are added on top of the fretboard but before the finish.
The tip with the regular scalpels helps, thanks.
Btw...what tang-width (measured with or without the barb) for which fretslot? How much oversize?
There are a number of compromises that may need to be considered when refretting a lacquered neck. Ideally, the frets should be just slightly wider than the original. This makes for a neater finish. I don't do anything to the un-lacquered fretboard that is under the frets.
@@flameguitars5770 Thx for your reply. I'll consider it when I buy fretwire.
Thank you! excellent tutorial. One question what was that tool you were using to burnish the frets after leveling them?
Thanks John. I think you are referring to the microfiles. I use these almost every day on frets. They come in several different grits. There are other ways of polishing frets but these work for me.
@@flameguitars5770 Thanks, I'll check them out!
Isn't the reason the boards need refinishing down to them also needing to be re-radiused by the time new frets are required? In your experience can you get 1-2 refrets in without needing to radius the board? This kind of technique is good if you're just changing a few frets etc?
What are you talking about?
Awesome video! What are your thoughts on refretting a scalloped neck?
Thanks for your comment. The refretting process for a scalloped fretboard is not significantly different from a standard board.
Great Video!
How can I refinish the board if I need to re-radius it?
Fender install the frets and then spray the fretboard. That is how I refinish a fretboard.
I have the same neck on my Strat. I've always wondered if oil for fingerboard protection has sense once the fingerboard itself is coated with paint.. What do you think?
No dont apply oil on a lacquered fretboard.
@@flameguitars5770 Thank you :)
Great video friend. Tell me what sandpaper you used to sand the frets? Thanks!
Thanks. I am using Micromesh flexi files
@@flameguitars5770 Is it necessary to glue the frets? Or not?
What is the tool you used for cutting the frets from the side?What brand are they? Where can I purchase them?Would love to have a pair of them. I always use the traditional cutter and seems to be more work. Those look like they cut a lot closer to fretboard. Thank you love your video’s.
in case he doesnt answer, the tool is called "flush cut end nippers".
They are not regular flush nippers. These cut way more cleanly. I was looking for an answer to this as well.
@@joshuaclaar7171 did you find an awnser?
They're made by Summit Tools, which you can find on Jescar's website at jescarguitar.com. Or go here:
www.jescarguitar.com/summit-tools/
It's called the "Straight Overhang Fret End Cutter," and can be found here:
www.jescarguitar.com/shop/summit-straight-overhang-fret-end-cutter/
Is it not customary to plane the fretboard after removing the frets? And isn't that primarily why refrets on maple fingerboards are such a PITA?
Great clear video! I noticed that you didn't heat the frets up with a soldering iron before removal, have you ever used an iron or is this your recommend method?
Thanks Trev. When working with rosewood and ebony I generally do use a soldering iron as it softens the wood fibres and helps to prevent chipping. I have used a soldering iron on maple fretboards but you have to be really careful not to overheat the fretwire as this can cause the lacquer each side of the wire to bubble.
Ok, many thanks for that. Also do you recommend the use of any adhesive when installing new frets?
When making my own guitars I do. When refretting a guitar it depends on the width of the fret slot and the width of the fretwire tang. On bound fretboards I will always add a dab of glue to the ends of the fretwire at the very least.
I’m abt to do my first lacquered Fender neck refret. And I’m wondering how u did the side bevel w/o damage to the fretboard. I usually take the side bevel down just into the fretboard then I roll the edge in btwn the frets. Obviously u can’t do that w a lacquered board. How did u solve this problem?
I think this is the most challenging part of refretting a lacquered fretboard, particularly as nearly all the refrets I do now are with SS frets. I have tried multiple techniques over the years. I suspect that what I do now is somewhat different from the process shown in this video. Now I undercut the tang a little. I therefore dont have to dress the tang once the new frets are installed. I also lay masking tape just below the fret ends. As I bevel the fret ends I know that I have gone as far as I can once my file or diamond stone touches the tape. Hard to describe this technique in words.
@@flameguitars5770 Hey that makes perfect sense. I appreciate the response. Best to you sir!!
Hey did you attend The Summit Guitar School on Vancouver Island?
No, I am based in London, UK
Can I just say its really refreshing to see you do this job 'old school' with like 4 tools. No nonsense! I'm astonished by how much people pay for a refret these days and what is actually involved (about 2 hrs of work).
If a refret take you only 2 hours, you are definitely doing something wrong.
@@FacFerSch Unless they were sideways installed or its a vintage guitar with a ton of previous re-frets, or the board is wrecked or divoted to oblivion, 2 hrs is a very reasonable amount of time in my experience tbh. It takes
@@cgavin1 Its amazing that a setup takes you an hour and only 10m to radius, cut, tap and pressing the frets. And only another 10 minutes to finish the fret ends. Well, it definitely takes me a lot more than you. But hey, if people pays and is satisfied with your job, theres nothing else to say!
@@FacFerSch As I said, its an industrial process. If I am doing fret jobs, then everything is prepared in advance wherever possible. Every piece of equipment is prep'd. I have refined things quite considerably compared to, for example, the techniques used in this video..
The single biggest time saver is a) good quality tools and having a high level of familiarity with both them and the characteristics of the wire (I use only one brand of wire and only two kinds of wire from that one brand) and b) Saving as much time as possible by being effective and economical with tasks that others turn in to 'art'. e.g. pressing frets. If you tap in the fret ends then press the frets in to position, if done skilfully (very much experience based) with the right tool, you can almost entirely eliminate the need to level/radius afterward. Spot levelling is all that is required 90% of the time.
If you are surprised how quickly I work, how long do you think production managers allow staff to complete similar tasks in the factory? How many production guitars end up having warranty work for bad frets? Its not nearly as many as you might think. What do you think is the relative skill/experience/give a shit quotient of those production operatives? And PLEK is still very much only a high end thing (although that is changing).
That's a professional job. How do you do that without scratching shit all up?
no glue into the fret slots?
and no recrowning after levelling? I'm confused.
Wish I'd watched this yesterday... 😕 Lovely job.
Well, it didn't go quite as smoothly for me as your demonstration. I didn't think about using a rounded scalpel. I slipped twice with mine and caused a couple of scratches early on.
I used a soldering iron to heat the frets up, but was interested to see you didn't.
Your fret snipper looks interesting. Is that a home-made invention?
BR and thanks
Matt, that is one of the first videos I made (6 years ago) and I suspect that if I watched it now I would find that some of my techniques have changed. I still dont heat the frets when removing frets from a maple board. It is very easy to scorch the finish adjascent to the fret. If you are referring to the fret end cutters, I rarely use them now. Most of the refrets I do now are with stainless steel fretwire, and I don't think that tool can cope with SS.
Hi! Thanks for the reply. Yeps, I also scorched the wood under the end of one fret 😞
Well, live and learn. I'm a bit relieved I was able to have a go first on this 2019 Mexican Strat before I take on my dear old 86 Telecaster. Think I'll leave the soldering iron on the shelf.
Anyway! Thanks again for the great video and tips.
They must hang em up with the headstock pointing up, causing the lacquer to pool up on that side of frets
Brilliant, what would the cost of this type of work be ?
You will find my current prices on my website flameguitars.co.uk
Hello. Great video.
Do you know what year this strat was? Is it a reissue or vintage?
I have a 59' that needs a refret but I am concerned about them having been installed sideways.
At the 5:50 mark it looks like the date is 0/6 99
@@jamesfriend481 Oh, duh. I guess I skimmed it. Thanks!
Weird, those frets look big enough for me. Actually stock frets on my LP are even smaller...
Anyway you didn't tell how to avoid damaging lacquer when removing sharp edges. I see you didn't even use masking tape, is that you just eyeball when to stop?
Yes, perhaps that part of the video needed further explanation. There are a couple earlier stages to dressing the fret ends that is not shown. The whole process properly dresses all the fret ends but without damaging the lacquer. The small file i am using doesn't damage the lacquer. Dressing fret ends on a lacquered fretboard takes a lot longer than it does on rosewood or ebony boards.
@@flameguitars5770 I see, thanks. Just noticed that fret edges on my MIM Strat are sharper than I'd like them to be and want to fix that myself. Seems like I just need to find file like yours...
Often, I find that the fretboards are not straight so I spend some time with a levelling beam sanding and straightening, then re-establishing the radius. Obviously this results in having to reapply lacquer once refretted. But refretting is like major surgery anyway, so I don’t mind. Do you ever do this?
This is one of my early videos. Poor lighting and white balanced. Haven't watched this video for a long time so I suspect my technique has changed somewhat. I agree that proper prepping of the fretboard is essential to achieving a good refret. And new frets dont always sit well on the existing finish, particularly if the new frets are wider than the original. I don't strip off the lacquer. I just accept that I will have to do more levelling.
@@flameguitars5770 It’s a great video. No need to be self-critical. I always learn from others to appreciate you putting the effort into making these.
Do you heat frets with soldering iron before removing them?
I do, but I am always cautious about doing so on a maple fretboard. There is greater liklihood of the heat damaging the finish.
I agree, I ruined two or three fingerboards doing that @@flameguitars5770
it seems odd that the fret were worn to the point of needing replacement, but there doesn't appear to be any wear on the fretboard.
You only touch/scratch the fretboard if you've got long nails or you're pushing down too hard on the strings. The string/your fingers should never really come into contact with the fretboard when you play.
The neck end of the neck .
There's more lacquer on the headstock side because when they lacquered it they hung it from the headstock there for gravity cause more lacquer to be accumulated there.
Yes, you are right
Amazing fretjob.
I've done some successful re-fretting jobs - but with way less tools than you have. I've never done a lacquered neck though. I own a Strat with a lacquered Maple neck and this job may be in my future for myself. Can you suggest where I might buy some of these tools that you use (the fret roll, the fret press, the fret dressing tool, etc). Great video - I'd love to do this again for a living now that I'm retired (35 years as a boilermaker). 💖
All that stuff is available from Stewart McDonald. Pricey.
@@pneumatic00 Yes, it looks it - thanks!
What part of England are you from?
South london
How much would this cost me for you to do on my guitar?
Have a look at my website. There you will find prices for fretwork.
Maple Fretboard > Rosewood Fretboard (any rosewood fretboard, in any condition). Idk it’s just my personal preference
I love English accents.
you didn’t show recrowning
I may have not included this just to keep the video a bit shorter. But any recrowning I do when fretting or refretting a guitar is now minimal. By frequently checking when installing the frets that they are level in relation to adjacent frets, I can ensure that I only have to lightly run a diamond stone over the top of the frets once they are all installed. There is always some recrowning to be done, but only on a few frets.
What no hard sell? No product placement? No give me money on Patreon? Not even the Subscribe and thumbs-up plee?
Guess I'll just have to enjoy somebody doing a nice job of a refret then.
I have done a couple of videos with a "please subscribe" request. But I've stopped doing that. If people want to subscribe they will.
The crowning job was Meh
Lots of special tools needed, and no explanations of the steps after 4:47. I wouldn't have bothered watching the first bit had I known that when I started.