Steve , you are far and away the anchor GUY. The big wheel is cutting edge thinking. Your anchor survey showed the humble Danforth is still the most popular so please don't leave it out of the tests.
I actually tried to test an Danforth 18H (that I bought on Craigslist) but it did not set at all. Upon closer examination, the anchor had previously been overloaded and was deformed in such a way that the shank-to-fluke angle is greater than designed. I'll try again with another, unmolested Danforth. Stay tuned.
@@flygoodwin Thanks Steve, Lots of us Danforth guy s trying to decide if we need to upgrade and so far I am not convinced. Thanks again for all your efforts.
OMG Man! You are over the top! I live in Vancouver WA and I have stuck my big toe in that water and immediately went into shock syndrome it was so cold! Averages somewhere around 45 degrees! Which for water is freakin COLD!!! YOU DA MAN!!!
Great to know you’re going all the way to bring some clear minded light to all this. There are so many subjective comments on anchors, and I try to link your channel every time.
That will happen. It first I was concerned that testing at this beach would not be possible in winter due to not having daytime low tides. I have since learned that I can conduct tests at most tide levels as long as the tide is falling. Stay tuned.
Awesome Steve! Another rad anchor video. I always love the way you set these up. Clearly the most objective anchor data out there. All the best, from Santa Cruz, ca
Creative way to assure 6:1 scope. Great test that generally confirms sandy bottom results. I wonder if the angle between the tip and the location of the chain pull might be a better indicator of how deep they'll dive.
More enlightening than I had expected. Almost would like to have seen the traditional drained sand test comparison for only the purpose of drawing out why manufacturers 'test' videos and others are so much less relevant.
Great test, like your others and getting better! I found your inspection for feature trends, near the end, interesting. However, one spec I think you may overlook is surface area. (Continued in comments to this comment!)
(I meant to continue but my finger slipped! ) Anyway, I've found a few manufacturers list the fluke areas; Viking 10 at 115 sq.in.; Mantus 17lb. M2 at 102 sq.in.: 20 lb. Vulcan at 113 sq.in. I haven't found area listed by other brands. I do own a Fortress Guardian G-23 (13 lb.) and measured the flute area at 128 sq.in. I also have a 33lb. Claw knockoff and am unsure how to measure the fluke area on it? It seems to me the area engaging the seabed would have a significant influence on load holding once the anchor buried itself in a soft substrate such as sand. Just food for thought!
Yes, I probably should have at least mentioned fluke area. One problem is that I do not know how to measure the convex anchors so that we have an apples to apples comparison to the non convex. Do I measure the "plan view" area, or the actual surface area of the fluke? I could give arguments for either method.
Yes, I believe this to be the dominating figure in overall holding. I feel the danforth is a good example of this. But an anchor has to set for it to hold.
@@flygoodwin That's the problem I ran into with my claw type - how to measure. The anchor brands I listed above have surface areas listed in their specs. For example the Excell. Is the area they list the projected area of the fluke (plan view) or is it area of the metal plate when flat, before it is formed into the finished shape? I don't have any to make a comparison to the numbers listed. Thanks for all your research!
I respectfully disagree that "we" don't anchor off surf beaches. When the alternative is being washed ashore onto them, (say after broaching out of the channel, or having a gear failure, while crossing a bar) some of us absolutely do just that. And, if we don't get an anchor down in time, we use anchors (bridled together) to assist our efforts at salvage. So I think this is a useful dataset, and a wonderful addition to your excellent (unparalleled) body of work. Muchos kudos!
I have 7m aluminium plate boat and use a sarca #3 to just winch the boat straight onto some beaches and then just walk the anchor out into the water and winch the boat out
Hi. Here is my recent test. Excel #6, 65lbs dragged again due to short chain, 12mm 40 meter (130kg), plus 20m of 10mm dyneema rode. Winds 60+ knots, and swells up to 4m Seabed: mud Depth: 5m Boat: 39ft, 12 ton Calculated wind pull 1600 lb Wave jerk is multiple of that. 12mm chain MinBL 7 ton 10mm UHMWPE rope MBL 10 ton Approximately.
@@flygoodwin The tube keeps removing my replies. For snubber there was a 5 meter of polyester 3 ply rope 1" And, that's right, a good big tire at the rode under water would work. I mostly rely on chain catenary, which is never enough. Lesson: chain should be 100meter It's 340kg for 12mm chain. Like skipNovak has. BTW anchor reset was excellent. Wind changed in opposite directions. It dragged across all Lunenburg harbor and eventually stopped, maybe caught mooring.
@@qb6025 Your snubber under those loads would be lucky to extend by 5-10%, which would give it 50cm of maximum extension. Doesnt sound like that would be sufficient for 4 metre waves. Your snubber should be significantly longer, and possibly smaller diameter to be able to access sufficient strain, and provide adequate snubbing.
Great videos, thanks for all of your work. I find your observations about the shank height fascinating. I know you sometimes do anchor modifications, have you considered taking an anchor like the Mantus M2 with a bolt-in shank and seeing what happens if you replace that shank with something taller or shorter?
Love your work. I’d be interested to see what you would come up with if you designed your own. Any chance of addressing what size anchor suits which boat.?
I'll design an anchor when/if I come up with something truly different. Not really interested in "tweaking" a current design. Anchor size is so personal, I really have a hard time making that call. People have different risk tolerances, weight allowances, and boating areas, just to name a few of the variables.
What you need to study and comment on, is the ground bearing capacity of the sea bed, as its that and the Area of the anchor that determines the holding power etc etc
I believe that "depth of bury" is often more important than the factors that you listed. Also, "throat angle" and other design elements have significant effects on holding power. It would be very difficult for me or anyone else to create a "formula" for predicting anchor performance. Hence my desire to test in as many seabed types and situations possible.
As steel is 3 times denser than aluminium would it be fair to say that the Fortress actually has resist/wt. of 82? How does this then compare to a genuine Danforth which is similar but steel version of a Fortress?
You already know this, of course, but there’s a problem with comparing anchors based on their weight. That goes to extremes with Fortress, as this test shows, and also the other direction, especially with the lead ballasted Spade. The beauty of using weight as a base line is that it’s simple to define. Fluke area might be more descriptive, but it’s far harder to decide precisely. Still, maybe it would be possible to make a correction, or some side comment about this issue, when it’s extra relevant?
Steve , you are far and away the anchor GUY. The big wheel is cutting edge thinking. Your anchor survey showed the humble Danforth is still the most popular so please don't leave it out of the tests.
I actually tried to test an Danforth 18H (that I bought on Craigslist) but it did not set at all. Upon closer examination, the anchor had previously been overloaded and was deformed in such a way that the shank-to-fluke angle is greater than designed. I'll try again with another, unmolested Danforth. Stay tuned.
@@flygoodwin Thanks Steve, Lots of us Danforth guy s trying to decide if we need to upgrade and so far I am not convinced. Thanks again for all your efforts.
The effort you go to is fantastic.Regards Robert UK 🇬🇧
OMG Man! You are over the top! I live in Vancouver WA and I have stuck my big toe in that water and immediately went into shock syndrome it was so cold! Averages somewhere around 45 degrees! Which for water is freakin COLD!!! YOU DA MAN!!!
Insulated waders = toasty feet.
Great to know you’re going all the way to bring some clear minded light to all this. There are so many subjective comments on anchors, and I try to link your channel every time.
I do like facts!
Thanks for letting me hang out and learn a little something.
Thank you, for lending a hand. Also, having you and your tow vehicle on standby, alleviated my concerns of getting stuck.
Brilliant as usual. Hope to see the same test for the 45lb rang. Thank you for everything you do!
That will happen. It first I was concerned that testing at this beach would not be possible in winter due to not having daytime low tides. I have since learned that I can conduct tests at most tide levels as long as the tide is falling. Stay tuned.
AMAZING work! You are the anchor man
Awesome Steve! Another rad anchor video. I always love the way you set these up. Clearly the most objective anchor data out there. All the best, from Santa Cruz, ca
Creative way to assure 6:1 scope. Great test that generally confirms sandy bottom results. I wonder if the angle between the tip and the location of the chain pull might be a better indicator of how deep they'll dive.
Good idea about the 'tip - chain attach' angle. Might be something to it.
More enlightening than I had expected. Almost would like to have seen the traditional drained sand test comparison for only the purpose of drawing out why manufacturers 'test' videos and others are so much less relevant.
I'm so glad you got a 10kg Bruce! Looking forward to those results.
Me too!
Great test, like your others and getting better!
I found your inspection for feature trends, near the end, interesting. However, one spec I think you may overlook is surface area.
(Continued in comments to this comment!)
(I meant to continue but my finger slipped! ) Anyway, I've found a few manufacturers list the fluke areas;
Viking 10 at 115 sq.in.; Mantus 17lb. M2 at 102 sq.in.: 20 lb. Vulcan at 113 sq.in.
I haven't found area listed by other brands. I do own a Fortress Guardian G-23 (13 lb.) and measured the flute area at 128 sq.in. I also have a 33lb. Claw knockoff and am unsure how to measure the fluke area on it?
It seems to me the area engaging the seabed would have a significant influence on load holding once the anchor buried itself in a soft substrate such as sand. Just food for thought!
Yes, I probably should have at least mentioned fluke area. One problem is that I do not know how to measure the convex anchors so that we have an apples to apples comparison to the non convex. Do I measure the "plan view" area, or the actual surface area of the fluke? I could give arguments for either method.
Yes, I believe this to be the dominating figure in overall holding. I feel the danforth is a good example of this. But an anchor has to set for it to hold.
@@flygoodwin That's the problem I ran into with my claw type - how to measure. The anchor brands I listed above have surface areas listed in their specs. For example the Excell. Is the area they list the projected area of the fluke (plan view) or is it area of the metal plate when flat, before it is formed into the finished shape? I don't have any to make a comparison to the numbers listed.
Thanks for all your research!
I respectfully disagree that "we" don't anchor off surf beaches. When the alternative is being washed ashore onto them, (say after broaching out of the channel, or having a gear failure, while crossing a bar) some of us absolutely do just that. And, if we don't get an anchor down in time, we use anchors (bridled together) to assist our efforts at salvage. So I think this is a useful dataset, and a wonderful addition to your excellent (unparalleled) body of work. Muchos kudos!
Your achor tests are best! Thanks again.
Brilliant
wonderful!!!
Brilliant!
Awesome. Really.
What a strange and interesting channel ive stumbled upon
Awesome
Thanks
Good work
I have 7m aluminium plate boat and use a sarca #3 to just winch the boat straight onto some beaches and then just walk the anchor out into the water and winch the boat out
Hi. Here is my recent test.
Excel #6, 65lbs dragged again due to short chain, 12mm 40 meter (130kg), plus 20m of 10mm dyneema rode.
Winds 60+ knots, and swells up to 4m
Seabed: mud
Depth: 5m
Boat: 39ft, 12 ton
Calculated wind pull 1600 lb
Wave jerk is multiple of that.
12mm chain MinBL 7 ton
10mm UHMWPE rope MBL 10 ton
Approximately.
"dragged again due to short chain"
Could we also say that the drag was the result of not having an elastic snubber of some sort?
@@flygoodwin The tube keeps removing my replies.
For snubber there was a 5 meter of polyester 3 ply rope 1"
And, that's right, a good big tire at the rode under water would work.
I mostly rely on chain catenary, which is never enough.
Lesson: chain should be 100meter
It's 340kg for 12mm chain. Like skipNovak has.
BTW anchor reset was excellent. Wind changed in opposite directions. It dragged across all Lunenburg harbor and eventually stopped, maybe caught mooring.
Wind rose record shows 110+ kmh on Jan 17
At meteo blue
@@qb6025 Your snubber under those loads would be lucky to extend by 5-10%, which would give it 50cm of maximum extension. Doesnt sound like that would be sufficient for 4 metre waves. Your snubber should be significantly longer, and possibly smaller diameter to be able to access sufficient strain, and provide adequate snubbing.
In this bottom type, fluke surface area vs weight. The two best anchors have a lot of surface area for their weight.
Great videos, thanks for all of your work. I find your observations about the shank height fascinating. I know you sometimes do anchor modifications, have you considered taking an anchor like the Mantus M2 with a bolt-in shank and seeing what happens if you replace that shank with something taller or shorter?
Love your work. I’d be interested to see what you would come up with if you designed your own.
Any chance of addressing what size anchor suits which boat.?
I'll design an anchor when/if I come up with something truly different. Not really interested in "tweaking" a current design. Anchor size is so personal, I really have a hard time making that call. People have different risk tolerances, weight allowances, and boating areas, just to name a few of the variables.
What you need to study and comment on, is the ground bearing capacity of the sea bed, as its that and the Area of the anchor that determines the holding power etc etc
I believe that "depth of bury" is often more important than the factors that you listed. Also, "throat angle" and other design elements have significant effects on holding power. It would be very difficult for me or anyone else to create a "formula" for predicting anchor performance. Hence my desire to test in as many seabed types and situations possible.
As steel is 3 times denser than aluminium would it be fair to say that the Fortress actually has resist/wt. of 82? How does this then compare to a genuine Danforth which is similar but steel version of a Fortress?
Gee Steve, I don't think that wheel is strong enough ;) Is there any less dense sand in your area to test in? Keep up the good work, thank you.
I do not know of any beaches with less density that can also be driven upon. It may be that 'less dense' and 'drivable' are mutually exclusive.
Why does he bother, totally useless test proves nothing
You already know this, of course, but there’s a problem with comparing anchors based on their weight. That goes to extremes with Fortress, as this test shows, and also the other direction, especially with the lead ballasted Spade. The beauty of using weight as a base line is that it’s simple to define. Fluke area might be more descriptive, but it’s far harder to decide precisely. Still, maybe it would be possible to make a correction, or some side comment about this issue, when it’s extra relevant?