Well done Luke, have a couple of the 675s, they are great, have added the Dedo attachments - the PB - for reflectors - used today, very efficient, and have on order the condenser to allow use of the the DP400 - which is a fantastic Imager. Have a couple of Evokes too and a Dyno - I think the 900 makes sense - looks like I'll be getting one for brute force - where the 675 FS can be used more subtly - I do like the very fast deployment of them. But Evokes do have great power. Very useful, thank you for your time on this.
Hey Luke, great video I am looking forward to the Nanlux. I've been an Orbiter owner/op for 2 years now. Just recently got Arri's Fresnel for it. My own tests are similar to yours here on the 675. From 8 feet away at 5600k, 15 degrees fresnel, I get 1400 fc. At 5600k, 30 degrees fresnel, I get 600 fc. When I go to the Open Face Optics, it's much brighter. From 8 feet away at 5600k, 15 degrees Open Face, I get 2400 fc. At 5600k, 30 degrees Open Face, I get 600 fc. Originally, i thought that the fresnel glass would concentrate the light, so it should be brighter. But it's not. Looking at the actual Orbiter Fresnel, there is a mozaic pattern on the front element, likely designed to fit the pattern on the chip emitting the light. I know this because light from Orbiter's Docking Ring attachment looks crazy without a projection optic attached. It's not the same as like a Tungsten fresnel, or Aputure's F10. That said, I trust Arri's color rendition the most, and am wary of other brands matching my other Arri fixtures.
Thank you! Yes, I can afford to be a little more fixture agnostic as my work is not as hypercritical as some. Keeping consistent color across fixtures is definitely a concern, but I find even high end manufacturers have difficulty staying consistent in terms of color once you line up a large amount of fixtures. In the end, you do your best with the tools you can afford and your fellow craftspeople are willing to rent and/or work with😀 Make that Orbiter sing!
Same Luke, i'm adding more RGB less to my inventory mostly Apature 600c and F22c and MTpro , love the accessories which are a reasonable price. Also just added a Exalux control one system so will be interesting to see how that preforms. Cheers Chris Film Lighting NZ
At the moment I do not have such an attachment. They do make an adapter that takes ETC barrels, but I have not tried it yet. The 675 spotted down pretty well😀
The 675fs Bowens mount is very deep and the DOP Choice bownens insert is very shallow. The tightening screw(that prevents rotation of the softbox) blocks full insertion into the 675 Bowens mount.. You can remove the screw and the sofbox will fit into the mount.. But the softbox will still not be able to rotate fully on the mount. I fixed the problem by using a different 144mm Bowens mount insert in the DopChoice mounting apparatus. The replacement Bowens insert was 10mm deeper. Now The Softbox fits easily into the 675fs and freely rotates.... You need a 144mm wide insert and it has to be atleast 40mm deep. The lip on the Bowen insert has to be wide enough to fit into the DopChoice mount... The Chimera Bowens insert won't work because it's lip is to narrow.
I have successfully mounted the Chimera Bowens adapter on the Orion 675 FS many times. Chimera will be showing these together in its NAB booth next week. With some simple limitations the DOpP Choice Bowens can also be used on the 675.
Totally, I just need the right adapter! Universalizing every unit and every modifier is a trick that for the most part has gone amazing well given all the separate and often competing manufacturers!
I see. On Orion 675 FS the Chimera Bowens adapter works with Chimera modifiers. The DOP Choice Bowens units like the Rabbit Rounder work as well but it can be a bit of a fidget.
Thanks for doing this Luke. I've been hesitant to go for the 900 partly hoping that Prolycht releases a size up from the 675, but after the Aputure deal, all bets are off.
The CS15 looks interesting but I'm much happier with my 675s than the 600. The fresnel design is better IMO and transmits more light with a similar spread and I'm a fan of the PL type lens mount. Ah well, with multiple players I guess this is the new reality.@@meetthegaffer
How evenly did the 900c light up the DopChoice softbox?... This was a concern of mine since Nanlux stated that the native beam angle of the light is 60 degrees. (Prolycht says 80 degreesfor the 675fs). Also how does the fan noise of the two lights compare?
I’ll have to check that. The fan of the 675 is quieter, but the wattage is also less. For an all in one instrument, the lack of fan noise in the 675 is remarkable. I haven’t run the 900c on a quiet set yet.
When you are measuring beam angle, measure the center, then work you way out with the meter - to the left or right - and mark it where it falls off one stop. Then measure the other side -starting at center - marking where it falls off one stop. The two marks will give you the FWHM(Full width half maximum) the proper way to measure beam angle of a light. To be even more precise you would need to ensure that both measurements are equidistant from the light as the center point... but just using a flat surface will give a rough approximation.
Thank you! That makes perfect sense. I probably shouldn’t be “teaching” anyone how to light without knowing basics like that😀 I’m afraid I light more by feel than precision; you can tell that from my sloppy light comparisons. I want to watch your channel!
Kinda depends what else you already own or what else you normally work with. Again, no light will do everything. This is also the first time I’ve turned on a 900c😀
Great video, thanks for the information! Side curiosity, do you have any insight on the performance or accuracy of RGBWW vs RGBACL when comparing yellows specifically?
I don’t have any dazzling insights, I’m afraid, except that one might be wise to have some actual gel on hand to augment the colored light created by the unit. Tests are the best way to suss it out, of course, because different cameras capture light differently. It’s not just the lighting. RGBACL seems to produce more vibrant color in terms of saturation, but some RGBACL units don’t provide the best yellows regardless. Just a lot of factors, so testing is the smart move.
An RGBW light cannot produce an accurate saturated yellow. This is simple physics. All they can do is dance red & green off each other. RGBACL ahas far greater precision control. It can always produce a more accurate yellow. You may find you want to use a gel equivalent such as Lee 101 in the gel emulator menu rather than dial up yellow in HSI mode, but it can certainly get you there.
@@meetthegaffer I deleted my comment, as the numbers I mentioned were the claimed numbers for the 55 degree reflector. I just realized you were using the 30 degree reflector here.
@@cagf2013 yeah, he was using the 30 degree reflector from the looks of it. When I did the quick calculation that seemed like half of the claimed output, and the fresnel spotted in also seemed to be about half the claimed output, which is disappointing. I could be mistaken though. I wonder if Andrew’s review will tell the same tale!
@@cfl4286 hmm, interesting. My only thought is that the prolycht reflector and Fresnel could have a smaller hotspot directly in the center, and that's where the manufacturer took their measurements?. That's one of the strengths of the Nanlux units - their reflectors provide a really even beam and surprisingly decent shadow quality.
I See you using many LED Fixtures in your Commercial Work. Are you Not showing HMI / Tungsten Work or are you Just Not using much anymore Nice Video Jeep it Up
Unless I need a much larger unit, like an M40, M90, or 18K, I don’t use tungsten or HMI’s anymore. I sold off my M18’s and M8. Only have a few K5600 joleeko’s left and have not used them in the past year. The only thing I miss is barrel rotation! I don’t miss the heat, the power draw, the lack of dimmability, the one CCT aspect, the bulb costs and aging, the gels, the hum, or the sloppy light (HMI’s). I miss the quality of the light (tungsten). LEDs are not perfect, but overall I enjoy my work more because there is something new to learn or try on every job.
why not formase an 8foot wide test and then meter at beam centre beam ofset 4 foot beamm offset 8 foot. This would better show which lights have a headline grabbing hotspot. You coula also shoot at F22 so the lit area retains some tones. Maybe shoot a 8 foot bobard painted grey not a white sheet. What im getting here is that the 50% more power draw has 50% more light.. no suprise!
Well done Luke, have a couple of the 675s, they are great, have added the Dedo attachments - the PB - for reflectors - used today, very efficient, and have on order the condenser to allow use of the the DP400 - which is a fantastic Imager.
Have a couple of Evokes too and a Dyno - I think the 900 makes sense - looks like I'll be getting one for brute force - where the 675 FS can be used more subtly - I do like the very fast deployment of them. But Evokes do have great power.
Very useful, thank you for your time on this.
Thanks for this side by side Luke. Very interesting to get a bit of a feel for the different beams.
Hey Luke, great video I am looking forward to the Nanlux. I've been an Orbiter owner/op for 2 years now. Just recently got Arri's Fresnel for it. My own tests are similar to yours here on the 675. From 8 feet away at 5600k, 15 degrees fresnel, I get 1400 fc. At 5600k, 30 degrees fresnel, I get 600 fc. When I go to the Open Face Optics, it's much brighter. From 8 feet away at 5600k, 15 degrees Open Face, I get 2400 fc. At 5600k, 30 degrees Open Face, I get 600 fc. Originally, i thought that the fresnel glass would concentrate the light, so it should be brighter. But it's not. Looking at the actual Orbiter Fresnel, there is a mozaic pattern on the front element, likely designed to fit the pattern on the chip emitting the light. I know this because light from Orbiter's Docking Ring attachment looks crazy without a projection optic attached. It's not the same as like a Tungsten fresnel, or Aputure's F10. That said, I trust Arri's color rendition the most, and am wary of other brands matching my other Arri fixtures.
Thank you! Yes, I can afford to be a little more fixture agnostic as my work is not as hypercritical as some. Keeping consistent color across fixtures is definitely a concern, but I find even high end manufacturers have difficulty staying consistent in terms of color once you line up a large amount of fixtures. In the end, you do your best with the tools you can afford and your fellow craftspeople are willing to rent and/or work with😀 Make that Orbiter sing!
Same Luke, i'm adding more RGB less to my inventory mostly Apature 600c and F22c and MTpro , love the accessories which are a reasonable price. Also just added a Exalux control one system so will be interesting to see how that preforms. Cheers Chris Film Lighting NZ
This was helpful...very helpful. Thanks
What lighting units are you mostly using these days in Nigeria?
Thank you for the test!
Nice, thank you. I'm wondering how the 900C compares to the 1200B. We're getting super spoiled now with these lights!
You and me both! Ran out of time…
@@meetthegaffer ha...all good!
I mean comparing Nanlux’s specs they are not far off. The 45 degree reflectors are a stop off but the rest are really close
Nice! Thanks for sharing
Please let us know if you make the 900 work with a projector mount to spot it more 🙏🏻
At the moment I do not have such an attachment. They do make an adapter that takes ETC barrels, but I have not tried it yet. The 675 spotted down pretty well😀
The 675fs Bowens mount is very deep and the DOP Choice bownens insert is very shallow. The tightening screw(that prevents rotation of the softbox) blocks full insertion into the 675 Bowens mount.. You can remove the screw and the sofbox will fit into the mount.. But the softbox will still not be able to rotate fully on the mount. I fixed the problem by using a different 144mm Bowens mount insert in the DopChoice mounting apparatus. The replacement Bowens insert was 10mm deeper. Now The Softbox fits easily into the 675fs and freely rotates.... You need a 144mm wide insert and it has to be atleast 40mm deep. The lip on the Bowen insert has to be wide enough to fit into the DopChoice mount... The Chimera Bowens insert won't work because it's lip is to narrow.
That is wonderful news! Thank you for that. Where would one find such a Bowens Mount insert?
I have successfully mounted the Chimera Bowens adapter on the Orion 675 FS many times. Chimera will be showing these together in its NAB booth next week.
With some simple limitations the DOpP Choice Bowens can also be used on the 675.
@@mitchgross592 I was referring to the Chimera bowens insert inside the Dop Mounting apparatus.
Totally, I just need the right adapter! Universalizing every unit and every modifier is a trick that for the most part has gone amazing well given all the separate and often competing manufacturers!
I see. On Orion 675 FS the Chimera Bowens adapter works with Chimera modifiers. The DOP Choice Bowens units like the Rabbit Rounder work as well but it can be a bit of a fidget.
Thanks for doing this Luke. I've been hesitant to go for the 900 partly hoping that Prolycht releases a size up from the 675, but after the Aputure deal, all bets are off.
Aputure will come out with an equivalent 1500c, so there’s that, but the 900c is a pretty handy, punchy unit with a small footprint.
The CS15 looks interesting but I'm much happier with my 675s than the 600. The fresnel design is better IMO and transmits more light with a similar spread and I'm a fan of the PL type lens mount. Ah well, with multiple players I guess this is the new reality.@@meetthegaffer
How evenly did the 900c light up the DopChoice softbox?... This was a concern of mine since Nanlux stated that the native beam angle of the light is 60 degrees. (Prolycht says 80 degreesfor the 675fs). Also how does the fan noise of the two lights compare?
I’ll have to check that. The fan of the 675 is quieter, but the wattage is also less. For an all in one instrument, the lack of fan noise in the 675 is remarkable. I haven’t run the 900c on a quiet set yet.
When you are measuring beam angle, measure the center, then work you way out with the meter - to the left or right - and mark it where it falls off one stop. Then measure the other side -starting at center - marking where it falls off one stop. The two marks will give you the FWHM(Full width half maximum) the proper way to measure beam angle of a light. To be even more precise you would need to ensure that both measurements are equidistant from the light as the center point... but just using a flat surface will give a rough approximation.
Thank you! That makes perfect sense. I probably shouldn’t be “teaching” anyone how to light without knowing basics like that😀 I’m afraid I light more by feel than precision; you can tell that from my sloppy light comparisons. I want to watch your channel!
Luke love the constant education you provide. If you could only buy one today which would u get orion 675s or evoke 900c
Thanks
Kinda depends what else you already own or what else you normally work with. Again, no light will do everything. This is also the first time I’ve turned on a 900c😀
Great video, thanks for the information! Side curiosity, do you have any insight on the performance or accuracy of RGBWW vs RGBACL when comparing yellows specifically?
I don’t have any dazzling insights, I’m afraid, except that one might be wise to have some actual gel on hand to augment the colored light created by the unit. Tests are the best way to suss it out, of course, because different cameras capture light differently. It’s not just the lighting. RGBACL seems to produce more vibrant color in terms of saturation, but some RGBACL units don’t provide the best yellows regardless. Just a lot of factors, so testing is the smart move.
An RGBW light cannot produce an accurate saturated yellow. This is simple physics. All they can do is dance red & green off each other. RGBACL ahas far greater precision control. It can always produce a more accurate yellow. You may find you want to use a gel equivalent such as Lee 101 in the gel emulator menu rather than dial up yellow in HSI mode, but it can certainly get you there.
Great video, I'm very interested in the 900c. What kind of stand would you recommend for it?
A regular junior combo stand will work well. I like stands that can take slip-on wheels. I have Matthews, American, and Norms combo stands.
that pink knuckle!!!
It was a gift from a DP who was cleaning out their storage.
Prolycht's photometric data on their site is so off holy cow.
Well, don’t take my word for it! I’m just giving relative comparison data.
If you are converting foot candles to lux, then that sounds about right.
@@meetthegaffer I deleted my comment, as the numbers I mentioned were the claimed numbers for the 55 degree reflector. I just realized you were using the 30 degree reflector here.
@@cagf2013 yeah, he was using the 30 degree reflector from the looks of it. When I did the quick calculation that seemed like half of the claimed output, and the fresnel spotted in also seemed to be about half the claimed output, which is disappointing. I could be mistaken though. I wonder if Andrew’s review will tell the same tale!
@@cfl4286 hmm, interesting. My only thought is that the prolycht reflector and Fresnel could have a smaller hotspot directly in the center, and that's where the manufacturer took their measurements?. That's one of the strengths of the Nanlux units - their reflectors provide a really even beam and surprisingly decent shadow quality.
I See you using many LED Fixtures in your Commercial Work. Are you Not showing HMI / Tungsten Work or are you Just Not using much anymore
Nice Video Jeep it Up
Unless I need a much larger unit, like an M40, M90, or 18K, I don’t use tungsten or HMI’s anymore. I sold off my M18’s and M8. Only have a few K5600 joleeko’s left and have not used them in the past year. The only thing I miss is barrel rotation! I don’t miss the heat, the power draw, the lack of dimmability, the one CCT aspect, the bulb costs and aging, the gels, the hum, or the sloppy light (HMI’s). I miss the quality of the light (tungsten). LEDs are not perfect, but overall I enjoy my work more because there is something new to learn or try on every job.
@@meetthegaffer great to know. Thanks for the Insight. Have a good week
Curious on what you will present next
why not formase an 8foot wide test and then meter at beam centre beam ofset 4 foot beamm offset 8 foot. This would better show which lights have a headline grabbing hotspot. You coula also shoot at F22 so the lit area retains some tones. Maybe shoot a 8 foot bobard painted grey not a white sheet. What im getting here is that the 50% more power draw has 50% more light.. no suprise!
Good points.