A cheap old webcam mounted under beside the grey water spigot. Could be used to accurately point the spigot at the stank (drain) Another easy build Andre £10
I fitted one to our motorhome last year, operates from a toggle switch on the dash, been great, no more getting out to drain the water, it's been one of the best mods I've fitted.
Helpful video to those wishing to do the same. We have one on our MH. I fitted an ebay bought reversing camera and pop up screen (£25), which helps when positioning over drainage holes. The valves also have a sight glass to tell you the position of the valve if it ever jams or stops working. Tilting it around a few degrees would enable you to see this, if you ever have a problem (hope not). All of these valves are made in China. Ours has a German sticker on it! You can get them from £14.99 onwards, dependent upon bore size. Which is amazing as the factory replacement for ours is quoted at £200. Be careful when ordering as some do not have manual override or sight glass fitted. If you want to get really sophisticated, they come in a six wire configuration, which enables you to have two leds fitted which light up (possibly green/red) to confirm fully open and closed. This depends upon which type of powered valve is fitted. If you wanted to get a spare (if there's ever an electrical fault) you can get a smaller valve, because they're the cheapest and replace the electrical switch unit. Just 4 screws holding it on.
Alo Darren I’ve had this in for over two years now and it works well. No problems at all and saves a lot of faffing around! Make sure it’s positioned in a shielded, dry area, away from road spray and stuff. 👍🏼 Cheers, Steve
Hi there and thanks for creating and sharing the video! I'm currently in the process of installing a US Solid ball valve (Brass) like the one you installed but I see that there are multiple options. Not only when it comes to the diameter size but also when choosing the model based on 2 or 3 wires. From what I can see you chose to go with the two wire model that can also be opened manually. From what I understand that model is an on/off model where the valve is closed/sealed on off and opens (and keeps open) only when current is going through it. The 3 wire model unfortunately doesn't seem to have a way of opening the valve manually BUT has an ON/OFF/ON mode where the valve is either closed (no current going through it) or open (also no current going through it). Basically the current only goes through when opening or closing the valve. Any particular reason that you chose to go with the 2 wire model that requires the current to be on in order for the valve to be open? I still haven't made up my mind on which option to go with. Regards
My concern is how waterproof is the valve? As at all times there’s a live feed to the valve it’s not spring return, or at least the one you link to isn’t
Alo JP, Nice down Cornwall at this time of year - not too crowded. Good to hear your feeling better mate and lovin the new AutoTrial, those skylights really open it up. Yeah, another little job done. We are practically ready now for full time motorhome life in sunny Europe. WhooHoo... Just 3 months until we retire now.... Hope you both ok, Stay safe, Steve & Margot
Do you know the weight of the your solenoid valve, I am going to install the 1" too but want a direct fit to the tank and wondering if it will be to havy and damage the grey water tank with road vibrations.
Don't know the exact weight, but it's very little and if you are supporting it securely and there's no flexing, there shouldn't be any problems really. ATB, Steve
This is a motorised valve, a solenoid opens and shuts in a snap... Just like in your " boom" washing machine. They jam up easily if crap gets in there. Large bore motor valves, if flushed regularly, are generally more reliable.
DO NOT USE OUTDOORS!!!!!!!!! I purchased this valve and installed on water tank outdoors, above ground. It was exposed to rain and water splashed but never submerged. It failed with in a few months. Took it apart and found it rusted and water inside. It is rated IP65. I contacted USSolid and was told Quote "Hi, It is stated in the manual that the ball valve is IP65 and cannot be used outdoor. I'm afraid that the gears are rusted due to used outdoors. Looking forward to hearing from you, thank you. I will say before failure valve worked beautifully! It just can't be used outdoors Best, Yuan "
Hi Greg What a pain eh..! Considering the valve is brass and stainless steel it shouldn't rust like that, household water systems use these type of vales universally. As for "exposed to the elements", I agree, but that would mean completely outside, in my case it's tucked up under the motorhome and even when driving in the rain does not get splashed. Has it been unused for a while, maybe that has contributed it the failure? Mine is still 100% working as it should do since the video. So I don't really have a answer to why yours has died so quickly? Maybe the next step for you might be to try an encase the valve somehow? ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks so much for your reply. It wasn't the ball valve that rusted. It was the internal workings in the blue case. Water got into the case and exposed the electrical system. The motor was all rusted. I did reach out to USSOLID one more time and said hey, it is rate IP65. They responded, "Please refer to the manual here( see attached). I'm afraid that our ball valves cannot be used outdoors." Since the valve is on the bottom side of the tank, when it rains, water is spraying/splashing up onto the valve
Ah, understand now. I’m quite lucky then, being able to tuck mine away from water spray. If water can get in though the case join, perhaps applying a sealer to all the joins might work?? Still a nuisance though. Your info has made me wonder if I should look at adding a tee piece before the valve, to a normal outlet tap. Just in case the valve ever fails and also adding extra sealer around the valve??? Thanks again for your comments.
I do have electric waste on Motorhome but when I close it I still get small drips leaking out as if its not sealing properly? Any ideas anyone? Are replacement electric valves easy to purchase and does it matter which one I buy and re-fit? Thanks for help Steve King
Hi, Great video.. I am curious though. Do you not need to fill up with fresh water everytime you empty the tank.. My bus has a water tank about the same size as the wastage.. so by the time the waste is full. I need more water anyway.. Hence do that at a dump station/water supply place. Or is your system so you can surreptitiously park over a drain on the side of the road, and offload the waste.. Wink wink.. 🙂
Hi Stephen, The waste tank is only 70ltrs storage, but we only use eco friendly washing products, so I tend to dump the waste water wherever it is convenient. This valve setup is mainly for use of use, so I don't have to faff about. ATB, Steve
Stick with the manual valve as the motorised valve is useless! I have them on my Swift Escape 2018 with only has 6k miles on the clock and both the waste & fresh valves have failed. Waste is failed open and the fresh failed closed. Completely useless!
I’ve had no problems at with this valve. Been working for over two years now as well. I do, however, think it should be positioned away from any road spray and debris though. That’s a common error.
Thanks for your reply. I’ve now removed both elec Sargent dumb valves and they are totally seized up and finished. My Swift 604 only has 6k miles on the clock so there’s something very wrong here with these valves as they clearly aren’t fit for purpose. Even the manufacturer has confirmed that they are not designed for this application. Therefore I’m doing away with mine and I’ve placed an order for manual ball o fix lever valves which I’ve purchased from eBay. Once fitted ill never have another problem. Just imagine the water dump valve falling in the open position when you’re on site, you’d be completely stuffed! As it happened my waste dump valve seized whilst open and the water valve seized whilst closed so it wasn’t such a big problem, but if it happened the other way round I’d have been in trouble! Any this is my solution to this ridiculous situation 😉👍🏻
I added one of these ussodid valves to my van. It worked great until it stopped working. Checked power to valve and finally had to remove. What a mess! Gray water from sink is not clean water!!! I thoroughly scrape my dishes but food waste is still getting into your tank and after sitting for a few days! IT Smells Bad. With no way to empty tank except motorized ball valve that don't work, I ended up with gray water all over the place and myself!!
No joke Mr Dripping... You have just as much chance of hitting a protruding stone with a saggy old pipe running under the van. The advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
A cheap old webcam mounted under beside the grey water spigot. Could be used to accurately point the spigot at the stank (drain)
Another easy build Andre £10
One word.....Brilliant !!!!. I enjoyed watching that video.
👍🏼 thank you, glad you liked it.
I fitted one to our motorhome last year, operates from a toggle switch on the dash, been great, no more getting out to drain the water, it's been one of the best mods I've fitted.
Good to hear it works...
I'm properly testing mine out while away this week.
Helpful video to those wishing to do the same. We have one on our MH. I fitted an ebay bought reversing camera and pop up screen (£25), which helps when positioning over drainage holes. The valves also have a sight glass to tell you the position of the valve if it ever jams or stops working. Tilting it around a few degrees would enable you to see this, if you ever have a problem (hope not).
All of these valves are made in China. Ours has a German sticker on it! You can get them from £14.99 onwards, dependent upon bore size. Which is amazing as the factory replacement for ours is quoted at £200. Be careful when ordering as some do not have manual override or sight glass fitted.
If you want to get really sophisticated, they come in a six wire configuration, which enables you to have two leds fitted which light up (possibly green/red) to confirm fully open and closed. This depends upon which type of powered valve is fitted.
If you wanted to get a spare (if there's ever an electrical fault) you can get a smaller valve, because they're the cheapest and replace the electrical switch unit. Just 4 screws holding it on.
Hi David
You make some good points there.
Thank you.
Nice job. All those little additions make it a better trip.
Yep... that waste water situation was just silly..!
Seems to work nice and easy now.
No hassle.
ATB, Steve
This is fantastic! Definitely going to incorporate this idea into my build!
I've found it really works well...👍
Well done Steve, another excellent video, many thanks
Thanks Chris..
Thinking about doing this on the mine, cheers mate 👍🏻😊
Alo Darren
I’ve had this in for over two years now and it works well.
No problems at all and saves a lot of faffing around!
Make sure it’s positioned in a shielded, dry area, away from road spray and stuff. 👍🏼
Cheers, Steve
Think this is excellent be great to see it all finished off
.Brilliant !!!!. I enjoyed watching that video.
Glad you enjoyed it Bob..
ATB, Steve
Another job well done and all that crawling underneath the van keeps one nimble and agile too. Greetings from Flanders.
Very true and by far the worst part of the job!!!
Lost count of the number of times I whacked my head.....!
ATB, Steve
Hi there and thanks for creating and sharing the video!
I'm currently in the process of installing a US Solid ball valve (Brass) like the one you installed but I see that there are multiple options. Not only when it comes to the diameter size but also when choosing the model based on 2 or 3 wires.
From what I can see you chose to go with the two wire model that can also be opened manually. From what I understand that model is an on/off model where the valve is closed/sealed on off and opens (and keeps open) only when current is going through it. The 3 wire model unfortunately doesn't seem to have a way of opening the valve manually BUT has an ON/OFF/ON mode where the valve is either closed (no current going through it) or open (also no current going through it). Basically the current only goes through when opening or closing the valve.
Any particular reason that you chose to go with the 2 wire model that requires the current to be on in order for the valve to be open? I still haven't made up my mind on which option to go with.
Regards
Excellent content. Thank you.
Great idea. I tried to find one but the only ones I can see are normally open??
Hi Rich
Look in the video description, I give a link to where you can get the same one as I have used 👍🏼
My concern is how waterproof is the valve? As at all times there’s a live feed to the valve it’s not spring return, or at least the one you link to isn’t
Nice one buddy genius lol! Out in my new one in Cornwall at the mo been away for a few weeks so far been great 👍… hope alls well with you buddy 😉
Alo JP,
Nice down Cornwall at this time of year - not too crowded.
Good to hear your feeling better mate and lovin the new AutoTrial, those skylights really open it up.
Yeah, another little job done.
We are practically ready now for full time motorhome life in sunny Europe. WhooHoo...
Just 3 months until we retire now....
Hope you both ok,
Stay safe, Steve & Margot
@@TheWrinklyNomads Cool as I retired 3 years ago so i might flippin join you!!!! lol...we are ok buddy, hope you both are too, be nice to catch up! x
@@TheWrinklyNomadsCan you still have a full time motorhome life in Europe surely its only 90 days now
@@alangriffiths7467 - my wife has an Irish EU passport.
As her spouse, I can spend unlimited time in Europe provided we travel together 👍🏼
Do you know the weight of the your solenoid valve, I am going to install the 1" too but want a direct fit to the tank and wondering if it will be to havy and damage the grey water tank with road vibrations.
Don't know the exact weight, but it's very little and if you are supporting it securely and there's no flexing, there shouldn't be any problems really.
ATB, Steve
This is a motorised valve, a solenoid opens and shuts in a snap... Just like in your " boom" washing machine. They jam up easily if crap gets in there. Large bore motor valves, if flushed regularly, are generally more reliable.
Teflon tape your liquid joins!
Ah, wait I can see you did. Good man
Have you found that it gets clogged at all? 1" seems small for a drain valve. Thanks!
Not at all. No clogging or jamming up.
In fact the original outlet was smaller than 1".
So far it as worked very well.
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks for the reply!
Is it possible to open or close just a little, without fully opening or closing?
No its either fully open or closed.
Works well though 👍
Great stuff useful thanks
DO NOT USE OUTDOORS!!!!!!!!!
I purchased this valve and installed on water tank outdoors, above ground. It was exposed to rain and water splashed but never submerged. It failed with in a few months. Took it apart and found it rusted and water inside. It is rated IP65. I contacted USSolid and was told Quote
"Hi,
It is stated in the manual that the ball valve is IP65 and cannot be used outdoor. I'm afraid that the gears are rusted due to used outdoors.
Looking forward to hearing from you, thank you.
I will say before failure valve worked beautifully! It just can't be used outdoors
Best,
Yuan "
Hi Greg
What a pain eh..!
Considering the valve is brass and stainless steel it shouldn't rust like that, household water systems use these type of vales universally.
As for "exposed to the elements", I agree, but that would mean completely outside, in my case it's tucked up under the motorhome and even when driving in the rain does not get splashed.
Has it been unused for a while, maybe that has contributed it the failure?
Mine is still 100% working as it should do since the video. So I don't really have a answer to why yours has died so quickly?
Maybe the next step for you might be to try an encase the valve somehow?
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks so much for your reply. It wasn't the ball valve that rusted. It was the internal workings in the blue case. Water got into the case and exposed the electrical system. The motor was all rusted. I did reach out to USSOLID one more time and said hey, it is rate IP65. They responded, "Please refer to the manual here( see attached). I'm afraid that our ball valves cannot be used outdoors." Since the valve is on the bottom side of the tank, when it rains, water is spraying/splashing up onto the valve
Ah, understand now.
I’m quite lucky then, being able to tuck mine away from water spray.
If water can get in though the case join, perhaps applying a sealer to all the joins might work??
Still a nuisance though.
Your info has made me wonder if I should look at adding a tee piece before the valve, to a normal outlet tap.
Just in case the valve ever fails and also adding extra sealer around the valve???
Thanks again for your comments.
I do have electric waste on Motorhome but when I close it I still get small drips leaking out as if its not sealing properly? Any ideas anyone? Are replacement electric valves easy to purchase and does it matter which one I buy and re-fit?
Thanks for help
Steve King
Lovely job!
Have you treated the underside of your motorhome with anything to stop rust forming (It looks clean under there at the moment)?
Hi Rottie,
Luckily I don't have to..!
The chassis is an Alko chassis and they're only made in a galvanised metal.
Result eh...?!
All The Best, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads That's fantastic. I'm sure that it gives you peace of mind.
Keep up the good work and enjoy your time away in it.
Cheers! 🙂👍
How’s that US SOLID BALL VALVE GOING? Thinking about getting one.
It’s working perfectly fine.
So far I have had no problems with it whatsoever.
Hi, Great video.. I am curious though. Do you not need to fill up with fresh water everytime you empty the tank.. My bus has a water tank about the same size as the wastage.. so by the time the waste is full. I need more water anyway.. Hence do that at a dump station/water supply place.
Or is your system so you can surreptitiously park over a drain on the side of the road, and offload the waste.. Wink wink.. 🙂
Hi Stephen,
The waste tank is only 70ltrs storage, but we only use eco friendly washing products, so I tend to dump the waste water wherever it is convenient.
This valve setup is mainly for use of use, so I don't have to faff about.
ATB,
Steve
good idea
I prefer to use heat shrink tubing rather than electrical tape
You could have just mounted a short negative wire onto a suitable chassis point...
I do realise that.
I had a substantial amount of spare cable and it was easy to run both through, so I just did it 🤷♂️
Don't understand why folk panic over a drip from an under slung water tank. It's outside. !!!
It’s not anything dripping that bothers me, it just makes emptying the waste tank so much easier.
Stick with the manual valve as the motorised valve is useless! I have them on my Swift Escape 2018 with only has 6k miles on the clock and both the waste & fresh valves have failed. Waste is failed open and the fresh failed closed. Completely useless!
I’ve had no problems at with this valve.
Been working for over two years now as well.
I do, however, think it should be positioned away from any road spray and debris though. That’s a common error.
Thanks for your reply. I’ve now removed both elec Sargent dumb valves and they are totally seized up and finished. My Swift 604 only has 6k miles on the clock so there’s something very wrong here with these valves as they clearly aren’t fit for purpose. Even the manufacturer has confirmed that they are not designed for this application. Therefore I’m doing away with mine and I’ve placed an order for manual ball o fix lever valves which I’ve purchased from eBay. Once fitted ill never have another problem. Just imagine the water dump valve falling in the open position when you’re on site, you’d be completely stuffed!
As it happened my waste dump valve seized whilst open and the water valve seized whilst closed so it wasn’t such a big problem, but if it happened the other way round I’d have been in trouble!
Any this is my solution to this ridiculous situation 😉👍🏻
I added one of these ussodid valves to my van. It worked great until it stopped working. Checked power to valve and finally had to remove. What a mess! Gray water from sink is not clean water!!! I thoroughly scrape my dishes but food waste is still getting into your tank and after sitting for a few days! IT Smells Bad. With no way to empty tank except motorized ball valve that don't work, I ended up with gray water all over the place and myself!!
That's interesting Greg...
So far I've had no problems at all with mine.
...is this a joke..the old method was much better and also won't come off if you hit a protruding stone..
No joke Mr Dripping...
You have just as much chance of hitting a protruding stone with a saggy old pipe running under the van.
The advantages outweigh the disadvantages.