Hey man my brother couldn't figure out why he was only firing on one cylinder. After tearing down the whole dang top end, it's just funny to think that the whole time he could have just done a cap and rotor. Maybe some spark plugs. Fan freaking tastic.
When I got my 85 z24 (King cab 2wd full-length bed), it was a big gamble for me. One year I went to this junkyard that also did vehicle inspections to inspect my car. Spotted my truck just sitting there off in the distance. It grabbed my eye but I presumed it to be picked clean. Well, the next year came and time for another vehicle inspection. I spotted it again, this time in a different location but still in the junkyard. I asked the owner if I could go check it out. Sure he said. I went over and looked it over and the only thing missing was the cat. Everything else was there, even the original owners manual, almost all of the service records, and more. So I asked him why it was there. He knew a guy who owned it (second owner) and the guy junked it because "it would randomly not want to start". I poked around a little and noticed the wiring under the hood was, well, quite sketchy. I asked him how much he wanted for it. $200 delivered to my house since he knew me well. When it showed up to my house, I did some basic stuff that it seemed to need. Starter, battery, fluids, carb clean. Sure enough, it didn't want to start. So, I started playing with the wires and found a connector that was well past it's prime. Some redneck fiddling and she fired right up. The truck was sitting in a junkyard for several years without being started and fired right up after playing with some wires lol. Well, the plan was to get it on the road but life had other plans for me at the time. A few years passed and I managed to get some new tires for it. Went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and filter (easy and cheap) and drove it on the sketchiest tires I've ever ridden on to the tire place up the street, got them replaced. Only issue was the upper rad hose sprang a big leak and that wiring connector was being stupid again. Drove smooth with plenty of power. I was excited. So, the next plan was rad hoses. Seems simple, right? Right?? Of course not. Apparently they were original hoses on an original radiator that was pretty much rotted. So, tried to get a radiator but nope, covid had other plans. Suddenly, no radiators, anywhere. Custom ordered one and after it was delayed by the manufacturer several times, I told them to keep it. The truck has been sitting another few years. Finally, just checked and found some decent aftermarket radiators for reasonable prices so, I guess it's time to try again for the road? I sure hope this time it goes well because that poor thing has been sitting in my driveway for about five or six years just waiting for the chance to get another chance at life. So far, total investment has been about $800 USD including the cost of the truck. It has taken forever, but I have full faith it will fire right up after some basic stuff and based on how well it ran and shifted, I should be able to easily get another 100K miles out of it before any major issue. I did hear that the z24 needs headbolts re-torqued roughly once a year to help prevent issues with the headgasket.
just bought the same King Cab and its oil's espresso. the lube shop didn't want anything to do with it and had no 10w30 let alone the filter (6$) this thing starts up like a Honda. fun truck. no cat. i guess. who cares? lol
@@NotSoCrazyNinja I haven't been underneath it yet, tomorrow doing the oil myself.. drove it from buy site at 70mph for like 90 minutes dude following, and no smoke. 300k miles. amazing engine.
@@_Ramen-Vac_ if it's a napz engine, get the head bolts retorqued (loosen one, torque it, repeat on all the rest). Supposed to help prevent blown headgasket. Supposed to be done like every year or so or something. But yeah, mine is just about 300K miles and runs way better than my daily driver that has about 160K miles. I still can't believe someone junked it over a bad connector lol.
EGR valve. Bad spark plugs. map/ mass airflow sensor is it run ok and just using way more ⛽ fuel that you know it should? If so I'd guess EGR valve that has a tube coming from exhaust manifold going to it on intake if you have same engine.. take care KY ✌️
It's on intake manifold right by thermostat housing should have a 2 wire plug that is your temperature gauge sensor that gives computer/ ECM the data it needs if faulty or bad connection your engine will run crappy because it doesn't know that the engine has warmed up hope it helps if you need I can upload a video pointing it out sorry I'm just seeing this comment take care KY ✌️
About to swap to new manual transmission but I'm rebuilding a front end of a totalled 95 starting this week appreciate the comment I'll do a video soon
Is it a z motor or 2400 z motors are up to 1989 & they have 8 spark plugs as a 4 cylinder. 4-intake 4- exhaust. Either motor it sounds like a common issue it just depends on the yr or kind of engine it is to know what it is there basically same thing but named different were smog control changed on vehicles made from 90' on. Does it cut out no matter if you are parked or not and does it seem like it just can't open up or rev with no power at all if you can give me a little more info I hope I can help
@@Joshua_Hammer.777 z24i motor and seems like it has a rev limiter just before 3000 rpms.i changed all sensors and plugs wires cap and rotor..02sensor....switched around the coil wired and it ran fine then afternoon time it jerked again just before 3000 rpm
There can actually be 1_of_3 things that are big issues for all the Lil Nissan trucks moisture can get in your distributor cap and ruin the little rotor button and cap would need replaced but that's just a common issue that will make it do that mass airflow sensor on throttle body or in air cleaner tube if newer that can also be called map sensor as well those would be on throttle body with a 2or3 wire plug that is most likely your issue and tune up is other thing but I am just shooting in the dark lol guessing I'd bet on sensor because I've fixed so many with that simple sensor I hope that info is some help you can order those sensors or if you can't find reach out I would have one take care
@@808livin.8 sounds like a problem mine had. mine distributor was grounding to the engine through the shaft at higher revs for some reason. i could see the burnt on the shaft were it was arcing and it also took out the crank sensor. had that weird cut out at around 2800 rpm and would kick back on real hard if i tried to force it to rev past 3k. if you inspect your distributor and check to see if you see any bunt marks from electrical arc from the spark internally grounding. if the new rotor didint come with crank sensor you might also need to get a new one. good luck
Sound high as fu$k
About to pull transmission to rebuild ⚒️ video will be on the way hope all is well
Hey man my brother couldn't figure out why he was only firing on one cylinder. After tearing down the whole dang top end, it's just funny to think that the whole time he could have just done a cap and rotor. Maybe some spark plugs. Fan freaking tastic.
@@gueropalma6649 thanks for your comment hope it's running smoothly I've had 13 little hard bodys I love my z motor
Take care
KY ✌️
Thanks for all the likes and comments just a poor boy shade 🌴 mechanic 🔧
Nice truck
I dont know what colour your car is but you could write a kids book along the lines of the little red cabboose that huffed and puffed !!!
When I got my 85 z24 (King cab 2wd full-length bed), it was a big gamble for me. One year I went to this junkyard that also did vehicle inspections to inspect my car. Spotted my truck just sitting there off in the distance. It grabbed my eye but I presumed it to be picked clean.
Well, the next year came and time for another vehicle inspection. I spotted it again, this time in a different location but still in the junkyard. I asked the owner if I could go check it out. Sure he said. I went over and looked it over and the only thing missing was the cat. Everything else was there, even the original owners manual, almost all of the service records, and more. So I asked him why it was there. He knew a guy who owned it (second owner) and the guy junked it because "it would randomly not want to start". I poked around a little and noticed the wiring under the hood was, well, quite sketchy. I asked him how much he wanted for it. $200 delivered to my house since he knew me well.
When it showed up to my house, I did some basic stuff that it seemed to need. Starter, battery, fluids, carb clean. Sure enough, it didn't want to start. So, I started playing with the wires and found a connector that was well past it's prime. Some redneck fiddling and she fired right up. The truck was sitting in a junkyard for several years without being started and fired right up after playing with some wires lol.
Well, the plan was to get it on the road but life had other plans for me at the time. A few years passed and I managed to get some new tires for it. Went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and filter (easy and cheap) and drove it on the sketchiest tires I've ever ridden on to the tire place up the street, got them replaced. Only issue was the upper rad hose sprang a big leak and that wiring connector was being stupid again. Drove smooth with plenty of power. I was excited.
So, the next plan was rad hoses. Seems simple, right? Right?? Of course not. Apparently they were original hoses on an original radiator that was pretty much rotted. So, tried to get a radiator but nope, covid had other plans. Suddenly, no radiators, anywhere. Custom ordered one and after it was delayed by the manufacturer several times, I told them to keep it. The truck has been sitting another few years. Finally, just checked and found some decent aftermarket radiators for reasonable prices so, I guess it's time to try again for the road? I sure hope this time it goes well because that poor thing has been sitting in my driveway for about five or six years just waiting for the chance to get another chance at life.
So far, total investment has been about $800 USD including the cost of the truck. It has taken forever, but I have full faith it will fire right up after some basic stuff and based on how well it ran and shifted, I should be able to easily get another 100K miles out of it before any major issue.
I did hear that the z24 needs headbolts re-torqued roughly once a year to help prevent issues with the headgasket.
just bought the same King Cab and its oil's espresso. the lube shop didn't want anything to do with it and had no 10w30 let alone the filter (6$) this thing starts up like a Honda. fun truck. no cat. i guess. who cares? lol
@@_Ramen-Vac_ mine has no cat and it's LOUD.
@@NotSoCrazyNinja I haven't been underneath it yet, tomorrow doing the oil myself.. drove it from buy site at 70mph for like 90 minutes dude following, and no smoke. 300k miles. amazing engine.
@@_Ramen-Vac_ if it's a napz engine, get the head bolts retorqued (loosen one, torque it, repeat on all the rest). Supposed to help prevent blown headgasket. Supposed to be done like every year or so or something. But yeah, mine is just about 300K miles and runs way better than my daily driver that has about 160K miles. I still can't believe someone junked it over a bad connector lol.
@@NotSoCrazyNinja head?? or just valve cover? if I tear it down to the head may as well DO its gasket.
Looks cool
Can you tell what can cause them to burn too much gas
EGR valve. Bad spark plugs. map/ mass airflow sensor is it run ok and just using way more ⛽ fuel that you know it should? If so I'd guess EGR valve that has a tube coming from exhaust manifold going to it on intake if you have same engine.. take care KY ✌️
Please tell me where the temperature gauge sensor is located
It's on intake manifold right by thermostat housing should have a 2 wire plug that is your temperature gauge sensor that gives computer/ ECM the data it needs if faulty or bad connection your engine will run crappy because it doesn't know that the engine has warmed up hope it helps if you need I can upload a video pointing it out sorry I'm just seeing this comment take care KY ✌️
@@Joshua_Hammer.777 thanks. Please upload the video for me
How’s the hardbody coming like to see a update I got a 93
About to swap to new manual transmission but I'm rebuilding a front end of a totalled 95 starting this week appreciate the comment I'll do a video soon
More z motor content 😊
Would you know why my motor jerks at 2800rpms
Is it a z motor or 2400 z motors are up to 1989 & they have 8 spark plugs as a 4 cylinder. 4-intake 4- exhaust. Either motor it sounds like a common issue it just depends on the yr or kind of engine it is to know what it is there basically same thing but named different were smog control changed on vehicles made from 90' on. Does it cut out no matter if you are parked or not and does it seem like it just can't open up or rev with no power at all if you can give me a little more info I hope I can help
@@Joshua_Hammer.777 z24i motor and seems like it has a rev limiter just before 3000 rpms.i changed all sensors and plugs wires cap and rotor..02sensor....switched around the coil wired and it ran fine then afternoon time it jerked again just before 3000 rpm
There can actually be 1_of_3 things that are big issues for all the Lil Nissan trucks moisture can get in your distributor cap and ruin the little rotor button and cap would need replaced but that's just a common issue that will make it do that mass airflow sensor on throttle body or in air cleaner tube if newer that can also be called map sensor as well those would be on throttle body with a 2or3 wire plug that is most likely your issue and tune up is other thing but I am just shooting in the dark lol guessing I'd bet on sensor because I've fixed so many with that simple sensor I hope that info is some help you can order those sensors or if you can't find reach out I would have one take care
@@808livin.8 sounds like a problem mine had. mine distributor was grounding to the engine through the shaft at higher revs for some reason. i could see the burnt on the shaft were it was arcing and it also took out the crank sensor. had that weird cut out at around 2800 rpm and would kick back on real hard if i tried to force it to rev past 3k. if you inspect your distributor and check to see if you see any bunt marks from electrical arc from the spark internally grounding. if the new rotor didint come with crank sensor you might also need to get a new one. good luck