Make sure a 30 bore will clean the cylinders up before you order your kit I had to go from standard to 40 over to clean my up I have a 385 in my s10 you will like it
Thanks for the heads up, I made sure I got all my measurements before I ordered anything, definitely don’t want to get burned lol. I can’t wait run this thing!
Hmm that’s weird. I tried getting one up in there and it seemed like every hole I tried to jam that filter through just wasn’t going to work… as long as my hoses are hooked up the right way. It should be a nice benefit to actually have that plus the oil cooler.
I used to bore 350s my boss wanted to see stock 350 bored finish honed out to 1 thousandths over i.e example 4 in and 41 thousandths if it would be a 40 over bore job. 1:06
So your thinking in racing terms. you talkin rod bolt strenght and high HP drag racing terms. Who you going to be racing in a zr2? The front diff and the trans case are goimg to be your weak links Id think. The stock efi is very limited as well and your worried about 7k rpm? Also seems to me the ecu aka computer will need tunning too to ever run right witha cam the heads etc. Also the fuel pump for that rpm would need a uprade I would say all you need to ever turn is 5-5500 rpm. Also I would think later a nice mod would be a floor shifter from a little blazer. Stock rod bolts will live at 5k a long long long time I know I was your age once way before ARP was around.
The PCM has already been tuned, which is how I’ve gotten to this point and will be re-tuned for the new set up along with some new injectors because I’m going to be out powering them now. I’m projecting a 6200 shift point right now.. which means a red line of 64/65 depends on where power drops off on the Dyno when I get to that point. Anyone that’s only running their engine to less than 5 grand is not going anywhere quick. You’re right it’s definitely not a drag track but I definitely will be running her!
Live and learn. No oil pressure, no drive. I see it a lot. Improper A/F ratio and people just have to drive it. Low oil pressure too. They just get inpatient. Arp will not clamp tighter. Torque is torque. They just hold up better. They are stronger. You can get a different torque if the threads are not good and clean.
You are brave as hell dude. Or either rich. But swapping in a V8 takes nards!
Man that sucks hopefully keep up with some updates
It’s a bummer but now that I’ve looked it over and have plans for more even more potential.. I think I’m gonna be a lot happier with it in the end.
those cooler lines i check, recheck and question myself till i had a headache.
Dude. I been waiting for your project to be done. I want to do same thing. Bummer. Uou got patience
Yeah, been working away, it’s slow going but… It’s gona be bigger and better so atleast its should be worth it!
I would have checked with another gauge before taking the engine out.
Make sure a 30 bore will clean the cylinders up before you order your kit I had to go from standard to 40 over to clean my up I have a 385 in my s10 you will like it
Thanks for the heads up, I made sure I got all my measurements before I ordered anything, definitely don’t want to get burned lol. I can’t wait run this thing!
I was gona say a 383 stroker would be nice
Than I s g o r the find😮
You don't have to run the remote oil filter, even with 4wd. I have the same swap. I pull the filter through the fender well.
Hmm that’s weird. I tried getting one up in there and it seemed like every hole I tried to jam that filter through just wasn’t going to work… as long as my hoses are hooked up the right way. It should be a nice benefit to actually have that plus the oil cooler.
I used to bore 350s my boss wanted to see stock 350 bored finish honed out to 1 thousandths over i.e example 4 in and 41 thousandths if it would be a 40 over bore job. 1:06
Me thinks your oil pressure relief valve is stuck open.
So your thinking in racing terms. you talkin rod bolt strenght and high HP drag racing terms. Who you going to be racing in a zr2? The front diff and the trans case are goimg to be your weak links Id think. The stock efi is very limited as well and your worried about 7k rpm? Also seems to me the ecu aka computer will need tunning too to ever run right witha cam the heads etc. Also the fuel pump for that rpm would need a uprade I would say all you need to ever turn is 5-5500 rpm. Also I would think later a nice mod would be a floor shifter from a little blazer. Stock rod bolts will live at 5k a long long long time I know I was your age once way before ARP was around.
The PCM has already been tuned, which is how I’ve gotten to this point and will be re-tuned for the new set up along with some new injectors because I’m going to be out powering them now.
I’m projecting a 6200 shift point right now.. which means a red line of 64/65 depends on where power drops off on the Dyno when I get to that point. Anyone that’s only running their engine to less than 5 grand is not going anywhere quick. You’re right it’s definitely not a drag track but I definitely will be running her!
You’re not turning that POS above 5k anyway.
5k is rookie numbers bro…
@@nicholsperformance92 so is putting oil lines on backwards…. 🤷
Live and learn. No oil pressure, no drive. I see it a lot. Improper A/F ratio and people just have to drive it. Low oil pressure too. They just get inpatient. Arp will not clamp tighter. Torque is torque. They just hold up better. They are stronger. You can get a different torque if the threads are not good and clean.
I actually had around 50 psi before I did those first full throttle pulls. Not sure how it was making it through there. Lots of strangeness…