Hard Start! 1976 Porsche 911 Repair
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- It has been eight and a half years since we last saw this car for an engine rebuild. The complaint was a hard start cold that had progressed to running rough as well. It was a very hard start, and we had a lot of trouble starting it to get into the shop.
After looking at the systems and diagnosing the problem, we fixed the car.
To fix the hard start, we eliminated suspects one by one and found the electrical system was the main problem.
After the hard start was fixed, the car got some much-needed service and is running sweet.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to teach us about our cars, especially those pesky intermediate ones that are so frustrating.
Your Welcome
Kurt
Nice Kurt!
Much more sensitive system than the earlier cars. Great diagnostic work!
Thanks! 👍
Always learn something from your videos, thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Kurt
Thanks Kurt! Great Job!
Thanks
Kurt
That's how I feel in the morning.
Yep, Know the feeling
Kurt
Another great one! Nice work.
What was the diff between the battery you installed and the one that was there? CCA’s? Leak down - performed warm or cold b/c of the cold start issue?
The battery originally installed was not only the incorrect type for the vehicle it was also only a 500 CCA battery versus the 950 CCA battery specified by Porsche. Porsche does allow for a smaller 750 CCA battery although our environment and temperatures do not lend well to the size battery. Where ever possible I will always install the largest battery possible.
Leak down pressures are always performed not matter what the complaint. It is best practice to gather as much information as possible when looking at a vehicle.
Kurt
@@klassikats wish there were more battery options. Esp for the older bat box fitment, ie long hoods. anyhow great work and vid.
Had fun learning from this one as i have 76 as well. Cold start stability is my ongoing issue and it does not warmup gracefully. Am dealing with surging on warmup as you noted in the end of the video and I am pretty sure i have a small airbox leak as I diagnosed with smoke test, but am not ready to buy new airbox yet and was hoping to wait till winter. Surging goes away when warm, so am thinking the airbox heats up when running and seals better. So my question is? do i proceed with new airbox, or do i lean it out a bit. thanks!
Always fix the air leak first. Unmetered air can result in engine damage due to increased combustion chamber temperatures due to a lean fuel mixture. Then once the intake system is all sealed up you can adjust the fuel mixtures. Make sure you use a high quality gas analyzer and not an AFR meter.
Kurt
Super, thanks so much for the guidance. You are the Best!
What is head retention? I've never encountered that term before.
911 cylinder heads need to be torqued at every major service. from 1965-83 models
Kurt
@Klassik Automotive Training School
Hey mate,, I’ve got an oddball question for you regarding the 3 barrel weber and zenith carbys.
In your opinion,, what do you think the success rate would be running one of these type carbs on an 2.6 litre inline 6 cylinder?
I have a 1962 vauxhall pa cresta with the 2651cc 2.6 litre 6 cylinder and I’m wanting to do some mild engine mods to it.
No real performance parts exist for these things other than extractors/ exhaust headers so everything like cam, lifters, valve springs, pistons, head work will be purely off the cuff improvisation.
Any advice would be great. Cheers ✌️
Of course, it could be done with a custom intake system. In my opinion, you would be better off running three DCOE side draft carburetors. Odds are there is an intake manifold already out there for that carburetor, and the linkage set is already available for those carburetors to run on an inline 6 configuration.
Kurt