2007 - 2021 Toyota Tundra and Sequoia Comprehensive Engine Coolant Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- This video describes how to perform a FULL coolant change on a 2007-2021 Toyota Tundra or Sequoia equipped with the 4.7 or 4.6 or 5.7 liter V8 engine. This is NOT a partial drain and fill nor is it a flush but a complete drain and fill of the radiator, overflow tank, heater core and engine block. This procedure is how Toyota dealerships do coolant changes and if you follow Toyota's maintenance schedule then there should be nearly ZERO contamination in the cooling system. Change coolant every 100, 000 miles with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink).
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For those of you who are wondering the torque spec for the brass cylinder block drain cock plugs is 10 ft-lbs. Great video.
thanks for sharing that spec. I use the term finger tight or hand tight to indicate that the bolt/nut/fastener really doesn't need to be very tight at all. The problem with providing torque specs to the inexperienced is that they tend to (from what I've seen and had to fix) use a poorly made torque wrench that doesn't have the correct accuracy for such a small torque value (most wrenches don't unless you own a high end/specialty torque wrench) and end up snapping the fastener in half. That being said, KNOWING the torque value is still useful so thank you for sharing with everyone here.
@@piercedasian I used a 3/8 drive smaller torque wrench that goes down to 5 ft/lbs my 1/2 inch drive doesn't go that low. The issue I find with hand tight is I have heard people refer hand tight to bolts that should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs for the oil drain plug and the 73 ft-lbs for the caliper bolts. My 3/8 drive torque wrench wasn't that expensive I picked it up at AutoZone for around $30 and unless you're doing wheel lugs would recommend it over 1/2 inch drive torque wrench for a majority of diy service.
Thanks I was wondering that very question.
10 ft lbs is pretty much the definition of finger tight.
Performed this yesterday on my 2012 Tundra. Your video made the job go very smooth. Thanks for taking the time to document the process and share it.
Glad it helped!
Best vid showing block drain bolts and Proper cooling system service.
glad you liked the video!
Great video. Followed each step, with the right tools it was an easy project. Thank you.
Thank you for your help.
You are the only video of this, and you helped me out.
Glad you liked the video. Yes, I noticed that on RUclips that nobody seems to do a comprehensive coolant change video on this particular Tundra.
This was perfect for my 2008 Tundra, thanks a bunch.
Nicely done! I’ll be doing mine this weekend
Hey, many thanks for your insightful video. I just did mine following your steps. I found out that by turning the wheels to the right full lock, I can have access to both the block drains. One doesn't need to remove any tire. The left side block drain is right behind the suspension strut. I had to go and buy a universal joint half way :).
Yes, you can definitely do the lock to lock to expose the opening to the block. I noticed that after I did my video but I had to film it for my viewers so they could get a clear view without the tire being in the way. I will DEFINITELY do that the next time I change out my coolant. I'm just crossing my fingers that my water pump doesn't fail anytime soon otherwise I will have to do a water pump replacement video next :)
@@piercedasian How many miles is the water pump last? I don't think I will open those drain plugs, I don't ever know if my 2001 Tundra had them, this is the first time I ever seen that done. I have 2013 with 74k miles.
Using this guide, I was able to change the coolant in my 2018 Land Cruiser. It has the same engine, so the steps were basically the same. I did raise the driver's side of the Land Cruiser to fully drain the radiator and passenger side of the block. I did the opposite to drain the driver's side of the block. It took right at 12 quarts.
that's awesome to hear! Glad you found this video useful! Thanks for stopping by.
No other video was good step be step, on fact most of them were wrong. This is perfect thank you thank you!
Glad you liked the video!
Nice tutorial. I will be doing this tomorrow. I just verified the location and broke loose the block drain plugs. They came loose with no issues. This doesn't normally happen for me so. I usually have to do lots of stunts to get bolts loose.
This is super informative. Thanks for your time! I'll be perfectly honest, I'm way too lazy for the extra steps. What I usually do is drain the coolant normally until it's dripping. Then, using my air compressor, I force about 5psi into the radiator using a rag as a "gasket". I know this is probably not the best or safest method. But doing this probably forces 90% of the fluid out without dealing with those pesky brass bolts.
yep that would work too. Best thing honestly is to do regularly drain and fills before the required service interval. The logic behind the regular drain and fill process is ensuring that the majority of the anti wear and anti corrosion additives are replenished enough such that the coolant is stable and is doing its job protecting the metal parts. So toyota may suggest changing coolant ever 128, 000kms then simply change it every say 100, 000kms. That is how Honda changes coolant and cars that were maintained that way were always super clean. The worst thing someone can do is flush with plain tap water... that is bound to cause mineral buildup in the system and can clog the coolant passages if the water has enough dissolved minerals.
@@piercedasian scotty kilmer uses a garden hose to flush 😳
Hey, my Asian brother: I did this exact procedure on my 2007 Tundra with a 5.7 L engine and it worked out perfectly. Only thing different I had to do is use a universal socket joint to get to the block drain valve on the driver’s side. Seems like my truck took around the same amount of coolant as yours. Great video.
Glad it worked out for you!
Thank you for doing that, very helpful.
Glad you found the video useful
Very well done and informative video. This helped me out alot.
you're very welcome!
Thanks, this video made the job much easier. Do you have a video on changing transmission fluid?
Yeah I have read that but I'm too neurotic about filling it perfectly that I'm hesitant to do it. I can't afford to buy a new tranny if I burn it out (highly unlikely). It turns out that there is a procedure that does allow a end user to change the oil out AND fill it properly. I may just end up doing a video on it one day.
This is a great video. I will be doing the same on my 2012 tundra. I guess I’ll 3 threes of those genuine Toyota coolant containers. Thanks!
Glad you found it useful. Good luck on the coolant change!
Great video ....this will definitely help me when its time for my coolant change but currently my 2020 has less than 20K on it.
Glad you liked the video. You have a long long long time before it needs changing. At least 150, 000+ kms or 10 years.
@@piercedasian even so I'll probably do it at 50k LOL
hey nothing wrong with over servicing your car but admittedly 50K miles is a bit premature. Modern coolants are very very robust and will last what the design life states.
Here’s a tip that is much easier than opening the drains on the block. The low point in a system is the lower hose connected to the oil filter housing. After I drained to radiator and the reservoir I pulled that hose and drained the block that way. That should get all of it out too.
That's a great tip! I had no idea. Getting to the block drains actually wasn't too bad and I didn't need to get under the truck or take of the skid plate on mine. Apparently some tundras came with skids plates and some didn't depending on the configuration. Useful tips nonetheless. Thanks for sharing.
I drained my radiator, reservoir, then the lower hose on the oil filter housing. Then I drain the block drains and another gallon at least came out. So the lower hose definitely doesn’t empty allow you to drain it all! 2018 crewmax limited
Which hose do you disconnect?
Piercedasian.... Love this video man. Saved me a bunch of time. Those "carpety" things in the wheel wells (splash liners)... You gotta change em bro. Get a set of 4 from Rad Rubber Design for $50. I just discovered them after dealer tried charging me almost 3 times that. 👌
Is there any real advantage to changing them out? Mine are still in decent shape. No tears or anything like that so for now I will keep using them until they completely fall apart.
This a great video. I was in a slight hurry so I ended up finding a way to avoid removing the skid plate...which for me was a nightmare the last time....seems so simple, but when you are on your back, with no help, it can be a pain putting it back on (dealership damaged it, bent the hooks)....will have to finish the job tomorrow though. Hoping to find the engine drain by just turning the wheels since this video showed me where to look. Fingers crossed.
There is a small gap and I just ran a couple of feet of 5/16 of coolant hose into the nipple at the base of the of the petcock and whammo. If there is a 9/32 ID it would probably fit better (or heat up the end of a 1/4 ID maybe and stretch it out, try them out, had to use what was laying around)
For those who follow these instructions, you may want to take a little more time and attach some hose to all of those nipples, will check to see later if it is the same size for the engine drain plug...a clamp and tuck away the hose for the next time. Just pull them out and drain away No muss..No fuss. If I remember, I may come back with more info...again great video.
Hey great suggestions! Thanks for stopping by!
Great video as usual. Looks like you are from Edmonton.
ugggg back to the dealer I go. I said it takes 12 quarts to completely change the coolant he said no you only need 8. ill need one more bottle now. thanks for the video
I'm gonna do struts on my Tundra in the spring and I would love to see a vid of how to change the front pair. Also a transmission drain and fill if you're up for one.
I will likely be doing a video in the future for the fronts as mine are likely worn out.
I do actually have a completely transmission fluid change video done already but I just have to edit and publish it. Sub to my channel and make sure you click that "notify" button so you see it when it comes up.
Awesome video 👍🏾
Glad you liked it!
Perfect timing, since I will be doing this lil project in the fall. In the mean time, WHAT IS THE NAME OF THAT TOOL you use to pop off the plastic plugs that hold the spash guard in place? THAT, I need!
going to change out my coolant tomorrow. i have a 4.0 2008 tundra, i hope everything works out for me. thank you for the video
Well I did it today and it all worked out fine. Thanks for the video again! I got out almost all of the 2 1/2 gallons out.
nice work! Isn't it so satisfying knowing you can do your OWN car work and not pay the stealership to do such a simple task?
great video so much helping me. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Hey great video, my truck has the 5.7 and I followed your guidance everything worked as you describe. I only had to take the drivers wheel of to get to the plug. I was a little concerned about getting antifreeze all over the lower part of the engine however, I left everything to drain for about an hour. All the antifreeze that splashed on the lower engine had dried when I returned.
Glad it helped
Most Toyota coolant I see is 50/50 which is good for -34 Deg F, which is not enough anti-freeze for the northern US, and Canada I would expect. Yours was 55/45 which could be good for 50 below at least. It's now difficult to find the concentrate, which I would add to 50/50 to give protection to 60 below. Use the Pink Toyota fluid when required because of the aluminum rads, and possibly other components. Don't use water only to flush the system, the water pump bearings require coolant for bearing lubrication.
So the way I see it is this... I live up Alberta Canada where it can get as cold as minus 37 C ambient - equivalent to - 34.6 F (wind chill does NOT count and does not affect cars at all). Toyota 50/50 coolant is rated to handle those extreme temps and thus will provide adequate freeze protection for cars in the US and most of Canada. Antifreeze doesn't become a solidified block of ice at the freeze point, rather it begins to "slush" up and micro ice crystals START to form. Rarely will an engine block ever be damaged by coolant slush unless temps dip into the -50 temps. If it ever got that cold I would presume that people would plug their cars in or store them inside a sheltered building for cold protection. Rest assured you need not worry about freeze up. I've yet to see that happen when a proper coolant change is done with OEM rated coolant that has not been contaminated with water or other contaminants (other coolant, rust, etc.).
I just changed the coolant in my 2018 this evening, so not sure if this works on others…I just drained the coolant by reaching behind the radiator from the top and opened the petcock. I had the wheels turned hard right and could access both drains without removing the front wheels. Driver’s side was a little more difficult but with two long extensions and a universal joint at the 10mm socket I was able to get it on the brass plug. Didn’t have to remove skid plate, wheels or the splash shields/guards. 30 minute job.
That's some good tips for our viewers. Thanks for sharing your experiences with everyone.
You did a great job with this video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it thanks for watching!
thanks for the video you are the only one which shows the drain plugs on engine, do you have the info on the pink anti freeze fluid you used
yes, I know I was the only one that showed it. I couldn't believe the crappy videos that were on RUclips that didn't show the proper factory approve method of changing out the coolant! What info were you looking for specifically? The Toyota Super Long Life coolant is pink and it is the only coolant you should ever be using if your Toyota came with it from the factory. It is a hybrid organic acids technology coolant (HOAT) and is very high quality as long as you change it as per Toyota's change intervals. The jug is clearly marked Toyota and to my knowledge it is only available at Toyota or online sellers that sell Genuine Toyota parts. Hope that helps!
@@piercedasian I think the coolant I got from Toyota is 50/50 I'll have to double check. Also excellent tutorial following the proper procedure. The only complaint is hand tight is not a torque spec haha.
great video.
I have a 2014 Tundra 5.7 and could not (wasn't sure) of the black drain plugs - so I didn't bother with them when it came time to change my coolant.
MY SOLUTION:
1. drained the radiator
2. filled back up with new water
3. ran vehicle so cooling system could mix
4. repeated steps 1-3 as many times as need until water coming out of radiator was clean. (I went overkill on this process as I wanted to be sure the old coolant was all out - maybe about 8 total flushes.
My Toyota dealer said it is OK to use the old red coolant. I wanted a little more than a 50/50 mix.
But I appreciate this video as next time, coming up soon, I will open the block drain plugs.
Hi David, yes the solution you have provided can work but with a few caveats. When running water through the cooling system what kind of water did you use? Hopefully it was either distilled or deionized water otherwise you will have (over time) minerals precipitate out of the water that is remaining in the engine and form sediments that can restrict/plug coolant passages in the radiator or wear out the water pump bushings. Generally speaking if your coolant didn't come out all gross and dirty looking that more often than not the cooling system just needs to be drained and refilled and no flushing is really necessary. While the dealership is technically correct that you can use the red coolant long life coolant in concentrated form that the pink coolant that came out of your truck would've been the improved and better super long life coolant that is in rated to have a higher mileage/time life. Its been a long time since I purchased the red stuff but I think the life of it was 5 years, 80,000kms vs. the pink at 10 years, 100, 000+. That being said, there is no harm in using the red stuff and you would've HAD to use the red coolant b/c the water remaining in the block would raise the freezing temperatures of the pre-mixed coolant to dangerously unsafe levels.
What you describe in your coolant change is an alternate means to change it out but I strong advice folks from using water to flush the system out unless there are obvious signs of sediment and contamination. The big concern is actually around the freezing point of the coolant mix b/c of the water in the block. That being said, you clearly seem to know what you're doing so congrats on a coolant change. As you have said, just for next time, use the block drain plugs and maybe refrain from changing the coolant out and flushing with water unless it is absolutely necessary and make sure you do use the pink coolant as it is Toyota's latest tech that was optimized for your model year of Toyota.
If you haven't read this already you can check this interesting read on the differences between red and pink Toyota coolant.
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-red-long-life-pink-super-long-life-same.123665/page-3
Thanks for watching my vid!
Good video. Thought I would do this myself. Probably not 😷😷😷
You can do it!
To get a quick and thorough purge of air fill and top off the coolant while the vehicle is running with heater on and parked with the front of the vehicle uphill. That way your radiator cap opening is the highest point.
Yep that is a great tip! thanks
I realized when I only drained about a gallon that I was missing something. Saved me a lot of hassle.
Glad it worked out for you!
You mentioned that you run the truck to 10 minutes prior to open the thermostat. Do you just take the radiator cap off to prevent the system from pressurizing then? Thanks.
Thanks for the Great Video! I was just quoted over $200 from the dealer to do this. Im going to do it myself and save$$. BTW is that a CRX in the Garage?
glad you liked the video. Yes that is a near showroom condition 1990 CRX Si in my garage. Good eyes!
@@piercedasian Sweet! I love the CRX. Especially the SI.
@@aaronisbell8592 The Si she definitely is. I will one day do a feature video of my CRX as I"m sure many would be super impressed with it. I bought it back in 2002 and then drove it for about 4 years and then starting in about 2006 I parked it and stripped it down on the exterior and then restored it (it was quite minty to begin with) but she's got new paint done properly and many of the exterior trims pieces are also brand new. It is a pretty tough challenge now to get the parts from Honda as the car is 30 years old and well... how long can we reasonably expect honda to support this car still?
In NY i got quoted 330$
Hi. Great video. What happens if you don't flush the engine drains? I'm kinda afraid of messing up those brass nuts...
TIA
nothing will happen, you just won't get more of the old coolant out. To be honest, if you change coolant regularly AND you only use the pre-mixed stuff and never put in contaminated coolant or tap/well water that cooling systems generally stay very clean. The purpose of changing the coolant is merely to remove as much of the old coolant than CAN go acidic overtime and to refresh the lubricants, corrosion inhibitors, and stabilizers in the cooling system. If you leave a bit of old coolant in the system the new coolant's chemical package will take care of the rest so don't fret. If you get say more than 70% of the old coolant out you'e just fine. If you're super worried then just change the coolant a little sooner for each coolant change. Toyota even recommends you change coolant MORE often after the initial coolant change for this very exact reason. If you're worried about the brass drains just remember when loosening that you turn it the proper direction and when tightening just tighten it finger tight and then use a wrench to give it another 1/8th of a turn and that's all that's needed. You'd rather have a plug that is too loose that you can snug up afterwards than to have have one that is too tight and risk snapping it.
Thanks for the video! 3 gallons should be enough for this process right?
OMG yes, that is plenty. The tiny bit of coolant left in the engine block is inconsequential so don't worry about "flushing" the system. There isn't a need for it especially if you're only ever run pre-mixed coolant in it. Only time I'd ever encourage a flush is if the system is badly corroded or you've previously used tap/well water in the cooling system where deposits have formed on the insides. I've got cars with 500, 000+kms using only good quality pre-mixed coolants and they show ZERO signs of deposits.
How do you dispose the used coolant? The auto parts stores do not take used coolant. Nice videos for Tundras. Your videos really helped me a lot. I just love how you are thorough, but you sound a bit snobby sometimes… your voice or how you talk sometimes… lol !!!
Awesome video, I am assuming it will be the same process for 2018 lexus gx 460? its a 4.6L V8 also. Thank you
yep to my knowledge the procedure is identical since it is the same core motor.
@@piercedasian thank you
you're welcome!
My coolant is the same color has yours can i use it on my xhe y trialblazer i know it says dexcool but i do t think the previous owners put dexcool becasue it is not orange it is red
Hi Joe! Coolant color is not an accurate indicator of what kind of coolant your car is using. It is often just a dye and provides no true indicator of the chemical composition of the coolant. Modern coolant from Toyota is a bright almost fluorescent pink in color while dexcool has a orange color that can be mistaken for the pink Toyota coolant yet they have VASTY different formulations that are in theory NOT compatible with each other. Red coolant from what I have seen is the old long life Toyota coolant that predates pre 2010 and again it is quite different from the newer pink Toyota fluid. I'll admit I HATE DexCool b/c of the bad rap it had when it was first introduced and it was so corrosive it was breaking down head gaskets and causing all sorts of nasty issues for people. Dexcool also can gel up when mixed with an incompatible coolant effective jamming your cooling system up. When it doubt, drain and flush out ALL old coolant in your cooling system and refill it with a universal coolant and just change it more often to ensure your cooling system is always well protected.
Ever have to do the water pump? I think the bearing in mine is going, 4.6 also.
Weird... comments that are over 1 years old. I haven't had the need to do the water pump just yet but I can assure you that when I do that I will definitely be capturing the replacement process as I understand it to be quite involved if not a pain to do.
I have the 5.7 2009 Tundra. It somehow has gotten low on coolant. It is about an inch below the low mark on the reservoir. I don't believe it is leaking anywhere however I suppose it could have a slow leak? Thoughts? I was planning on just refilling and seeing what happens. Maybe in the spring I will drain the whole thing like in your excellent video.
you may want to look around in the heater core area and water pump for tiny leaks and in a rarer possibility, that the head gasket could have a tiny slow leak. Has the engine ever overheated? Doing a full coolant change on this truck is so easy that there is no excuse to not change it sooner. Good luck with the change when you do it.
@@piercedasian Its never overheated and runs great. I dont want to change the fluid to only have to do it again because leak is not fixed. I don't think any of the hoses are leaking. I haven't been able to look at the water pump seems like there's too much crap in the way to see it. Since I have filled it the level has been good but I haven't been driving much.
I see your point. The water pump is a bit tough to see but if you're underneath the truck just take a look at the area around the water pump. If she's leaking you'll likely see crusties around the pump and block area. It could very well be just that you were a little low. Good that it hasn't overheated as that would just introduce more issues. Remember coolant that is exposed to air like the reserve tank can and will evaporate over time so being slightly low isn't necessarily a cause for concern. That is why checking fluids and topping off whenever you check under the hood (which should be at least once a month) catches things like that.
@@piercedasian Ahh appreciate the reply. I filled the overflow tank about 3/4 to the full line on Boxing day. Its down to about 1/4 above the low line currently. I can't see anything leaking onto the ground which should be obvious with all the snow here... red coolant. I need to start watching some videos on changing it. I was under there and I can't tell which one the water pump is. Need to educate myself. Is it closer to the bottom of the engine then the top?
Thanks for the great video but I wonder about flushing the heater core as well
No need to flush heater core. This is why the heater is set to full hot so that the heater core valve opens up fully. Even if you didn't get the coolant out of the core and your cooling system has no rut or scale that it won't harm anything. Flushing a cooling system is a dated way of servicing a cooling system. If you use factory coolant that is premixed you'd likely never see any scale buildup in the cooling system b/c there isn't scale in the water to begin with. My 2002 civic has over 330, 000kms and not a trace of any contamination in the system b/c I've always just done drain and fills. Flushing with tap water for example would actually do MORE harm than good b/c if your water is tap or well water that it will likely have significant amounts of dissolved minerals in it that will eventually precipitate and jam up your cooling system.
@@piercedasian thanks for the info
My 2011 Tundra is coming up on 100K (I don't drive much) and I don't think I have ever had this done. Instead of draining the Engine block could you drain and then do a couple flushes with Distilled water and Flush Cleaner Running the engine with the heat on, Drain and repeat until runs clear then Fill Radiator fluid... Would this get the same level of Clean?
yes you can do that but I will caution on using any cooling system flushes. If you're running the original coolant then there is likely almost NO scale buildup since Toyota coolant is clean and mineral free from the factory. In your case I would simply just drain the radiator and refill with factory Toyota coolant and just do the change interval more often. There is really no need to flush the coolant out with distilled water and the using harmful cooling system flushes when there is nothing to flush out. To make matters worse, Toyota normally only sells the pre-mixed coolant so good luck trying to get the coolant ratios right in your cooling system after you put in distilled water into the block. Not worth the hassle. Just drain the rad, fill with genuine pre-mix Toyota coolant and then change it again in a couple of years. Super easy, cheap and just as (if not more) effective that way. The best way of course is to do it the way I have shown but it isn't an absolute must.
@@piercedasian Thank you for this detailed information! you rock!
I didn’t see you drain the heater core coolant.
Had my coolant flushed at 85k miles, since then I’ve gotten into doing maintenance myself. Noticed my coolant is below the Low mark by a bit, no overheating or anything. Debating on either topping it off or flushing and refilling it. Truck is currently at 120k mile. What do you think?
I wouldn’t be too concerned if you’re no seeing signs of a coolant leak. Coolant over time can dry up (very slowly) and you couldn’t driven in extremely hot conditions that caused coolant to expand more than average and thus dumping out of the overflow. Alternatively, it could’ve been remnants of air pockets that got their way out of the cooling system from the last coolant change and “self filled” the engine and radiator. I would not bother changing it but just fill to the minimum mark in the reservoir when the truck is cold.
@@piercedasian So I shouldn’t fill to full?
Not if the engine is cold no it will expand and dump out the reservoir.
I have a P0125 insufficient coolant temp code when I try to smog do you know how I can fix this? I changed out the coolant with new one today
ah, yes P0125. it isn't bad coolant it is a faulty thermostat. Change out the t-stat (follow the lower rad hose to the block) and it is held in with a few 10mm bolts inside the tstat housing.
Can it be yellow coolant
What would happen if I don’t loosen those hard to get to bolts ? I’m guessing it wouldn’t get a proper drain .
If you don't open the block drain valves then the block will retain all the old coolant. Honestly not a big deal because the new coolant with its additives will stabilize the remaining coolant in the engine. The only downside to that is that you'll need to change the coolant out a little more often since you're not starting with a near 100% fresh fill. I do partial drain and fills ALL the time on cars b/c changing coolant on a car is so easy that there isn't really an excuse not to do it every 7 years or so. For example: If you look at Toyota's (and many other manufacturers recommendations) that the first coolant change might state the first coolant change will occur at 160, 000kms and then every 100, 000kms thereafter. This leads up to the question of "Why is factory fill change so much longer than subsequent changes? Its because the factory starts with fresh coolant in a virgin cooling system. As time progresses metals do slowly corrode, hoses breakdown and bearings wear out that add to the contamination of the coolant. When you drain the cooling system your'e never able to truly rid the system of these contaminants therefore when you fill with new coolant that it is effectively contaminating any new coolant you're putting in and thus using up part of the additive packages in the new coolant to "stabilize" the cooling system. This is why ALL car manufacturers recommend that after removing the factory fill of coolant that you have to change it MORE often than the very first drain and fill. Hope that explanation helps understand the "why"s around coolant changes :)
Just a heads up but if you have a 4.6L V8 with a towing package then you need 13.9 qt of coolant
Awesome video though! Thank you!
While you are correct in your statement that my truck didn't quite need that much. There will always be trace amounts of coolant in the hoses/rad/block/head/heater core. Also, after filling the system with as much coolant as I could get into the system that I eventually did have to add more than what I showed in the video because all the air finally burped out of the system and drew more coolant into the system via the overflow tank. Thanks for sharing that info as it will be useful for our viewers.
The tow package on the 3UR-FE 5.7L states 13.7 quarts with the tow package and 12.8 quarts without. Some amount of fluid will remain in the system though.
What is the purpose of running the engine to make sure the thermostat is open before draining? Would temporarily removing the thermostat serve the same purpose? I plan on replacing my thermostat when i do this
There isn't actually a need to replace a thermostat if it hasn't failed or showing any signs of failure. I think in all the japanese cars that I have worked on (we're talking 100's if not 1000's) that I have ever only had 2 thermostats fail on me. The reason why I like to run the engine to open up the thermostat slightly is that it allows for a more thorough draining of the cooling system. It isn't absolutely necessary but that is just how I like doing things. Yanking the thermostat isn't necessary as it is more involved than just running the engine to warm it up slightly to achieve the same thing.
@@piercedasian Thanks. How do you gauge that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to open, but not so hot that the coolant is scalding hot and under pressure?
Just run the engine for about 5 minutes and that would be plenty warm. Just exercise caution when opening the drain petcock. Contrary to what others say that a cooking system won’t explode on you if you just idle for a few minutes before draining it.
@@piercedasian If the thermostat is closed, wouldn't the only coolant that would potentially not be drained be in the lower radiator hose? If so, why not just unhook the lower hose when draining?
no the radiator always will fully drain. It is the upper block/cylinder heads that I'd like to thoroughly drain as well. I'm sure that since I opened up both block drains that I likely got 99% of the coolant out but I'm OCD and I like to take extra measures that could help result in a more thorough draining.
Piercedasian what part of Canada are you in ?
Alberta and you?
What about the 5.7? Are the bleeders in the same locations?
They should be. The 4.6 and 5.7 series motors are all part of the UR series motors from Toyota. The 4.6 is the little brother of the 5.7.
ive flushed my tubdra 5.7 but i wont mess with the brass engine plug... bought the flush kit and no need to mess with those.....
Just be careful when using a flushing kit where you install the "T" in the heater hose line. If you're using tap water to flush the system then you're actually doing more harm than good b/c tap water contains plenty of hard water minerals that will over time, precipitate in the narrow water channels in the rad and heater core and POSSIBLY corrode the aluminum components in the block and head. If coolant is changed regularly that a drain and fill is often MORE than enough to "refresh" the anticorrosion and lubricating properties of the coolant. Drain and fills will typically replace about 40-50% of the coolant in the cooling system which is usually sufficient. Using the bock drains will ensure that you get out about 95% of the coolant from the cooling system. Lastly another benefit to using the block drains also ensure that if you did flush with water that you get the excess water out which would otherwise dilute the freezing and boiling point of your coolant which is bad if you live in either a super hot or cold climate. In canada at least, we can no longer buy concentrated toyota coolant and only pre-mix. Premix is 55/45 so if there was any water in the cooling system then the mixed ratio would drop and thus lower the boiling and freeze points which is highly undesirable if you live somewhere super hot or cold.
@@piercedasian thanks for the heads up,
I would recommend every year........this was verified by a popular Toyota Tech that has vids on youtube
I'm not sure that changing coolant yearly is required though it wouldn't cause any harm. Toyota coolant is rated to last 10 years or about 80, 000 miles. I actually use pH test strips to gauge if my coolant is going bad prematurely. If the pH deviates from a neutral pH of 7ish then its definitely time to change it out. I won't let coolant go for more than about 6-7 years b/c most of my cars will need new timing belts and water pumps so the coolant usually gets changed out at the same time.
the only vid available on you tube ..hard to believe for Tundras 07-21 I guess Tundra owners are either not interested or not changing their coolant .odd
I admittedly was quite surprised by that too. Coolant changes are SO important to do especially when our trucks are being used to haul and tow things around all day long. Modern engines are made from aluminum and they're definitely MORE prone to the corrosive effects of coolant that has gone bad (becomes acidic). Water pump replacements on these trucks is also a huge PITA so regular coolant changes ensure that the lubricant additive in the coolant keep the water pump bushings and seals well lubricated so don't develop a leak.
do you know the tourq settings on the brass drains on each side of the engine?
I do. It believe Toyota calls for a spec o. The drain plugs but since it is tiny and brass just finger tight plus 1/16th of a turn is all that is needed. You’d rather be slightly too loose than too tight as you can always tighten a tiny bit more if it leaks but if you tighten too much then you run a high risk of snapping the valve in half. Brass is super soft metal so a little tightening goes a long way.
My Toyota Dealer only charges $89.00 to do this on my 2006 Tundra(and that includes the coolant). I think its worth $89.00 not have to mess with it.
wow I WISH it was that cheap! Here the stealership charges $130+ for this service and then they tack on the taxes and nonsense shop fees.
My problem is trusting them to actually do it, and do it properly.
if you don't want to risk breaking the copper, just drain it normally and flush it with a garden hose like scotty kilmer does lol
Parked on an incline but you set the parking brake to change a fluid?
setting the parking brake is good practice for safety. Incline is unfortunately a reality of my street. No Flat spots that I can use to change my fluids.
You must wait until the thermostat opens. I didnt hear you mention that.
When filling that is.
Not quite 100% true. Modern thermostats have a small bypass passage in the t-stat that allows air and coolant to pass through even if it is closed. It just takes longer to purge the coolant circuit of air but that is what the overflow tank is for. Once the system is near full capacity that any remaining air will eventually make its way out of the system via the overflow tank and then the system will self fill when the cooling system cools down. Been filling systems like this for 20 years without issue.
@@piercedasian thanks for that info.
Can I use the same coolant on a 16 gx460?
100% yes.
My coolant after 100K was still clean but Toyota says replace. I even tried using the antifreeze tester and it is still way above specs. Dealer says if you want to flush, just leave engine drain cock open, radiator cock closed and pour ?water to rinse until you see clear water come out of engine block drain.
While it is true that the coolant is likely good at 100k that Toyota and many other manufacturers will take a weighed average/predicted failure approach to the life expectancy of their products. While your coolant might be good at 100K that another Toyota owner could have coolant fail at say 96K so car manufacturers/OE part suppliers give an projected estimate of when it is a good idea to replace certain service parts such as fluids. With respect to flushing with water you want to be careful with the advice provided because there is little reason to need to flush unless there is contamination in the cooling system. Flushing with water will actually contaminate the system unless you're flushing with distilled or deionized water. Since I know the coolant in most of the cars I work on is the original coolant that I would rather opt to drain and fill my cooling system to prevent any risk of scale buildup. The other downside to flushing with any water is the risk of coolant dilution. Even the slightest amount of water in the cooling system will result in 50/50 premix solutions being diluted below the safety threshold of freeze up and for those that have cars in cold climates that can be a REAL big problem. No amount of draining from any radiator or block valve will completely make a block devoid of water so I don't take that risk since I'm in Canada.
This looks like Calgary, Alberta
What was the giveaway?
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
glad you liked the video
How much is the Toyota pink coolant
gus I just paid $68.00 for 3 gallons at my local dealership
I just got your comment 1 year after the fact. Here in Canada it swells for about $18.00 a jug CAD so like $14 USD.
Why not blow out the heater core while your at it . One guy did it with compressed air.
Because there is no need to do so IF the cooling system was always maintained properly. Coolant doesn’t just go all acidic and bad when it hits the specified age or mileage and since it is mostly a sealed system that there should be any appreciable contamination in the system. The little bit of coolant in the heater core and lines (at most 3/4 liter) isn’t worth my time to get out. I’d rather drain and fill the rad and block a little more often to ensure any acids in the old coolant (if any to begin with) is thoroughly diluted and stabilized by the renewal of the majority of coolant. The stabilizer additives in coolants is meant to neutralize acids. Worst case is just drain and fill a little sooner than the specified interval. Toyota knows this and states to change coolant more often as the vehicle ages and miles up.
I’m having the dealership do mine
It isn't too bad but having the dealership do the work is a-okay too!
Need to wait until the thermostat opens
not necessarily. There is a bleed port on the thermostat that will allow coolant to dribble past it once things are drained plus the block drain and rad petcock will allow you to drain the system of probably 90% of the coolant with the remainder in the heater core. If your cooling system has never been contaminated with water that contains minerals that a straight drain and fill will suffice for 99% of the folks out there that have taken the time to care for this cars. In fact even the dealership on a drain and fill doesn't drain the block and just the radiator! The idea behind regular drain and fills is to replenish the anti-wear/anti-corrosion inhibitors and doing regular changes (even if it isn't 100%) is MORE than sufficient. The problem with waiting for the t-stat to open is the system is now hot and under pressure which adds an element of safety risk to the job. I've done it that way too but found that it didn't make any appreciable or measurable difference and I've worked on some cars that have logged over 3/4 of a million km's on them just doing basically radiator drain and fills. The only exception to this is if you're flushing a cooling system with a chemical to remove a ton of scale or rust that should never have been there in the first place but usually cars like that have far bigger issues than just a coolant change.
I would just drain the radiator and low hose and flush it a few times
I'd argue that doing it this was is easier than removing the lower rad hose. Careful when you flush, never use tap water but only distilled or deionized water. Problem is when you introduce water into the system that the pre-mixed coolant is now going to be diluted. Toyota used to sell a red concentrated coolant for the older Toyotas but now all I can buy in Canada at least, is the pink premixed stuff. This is the reason why I opted to do the change the way I did b/c this ways you get 95% of the coolant out and never introducing junk into the cooling system.
FYI My Coolant flush Quote was 350.00. ...Do it yourself.
Yep, DIY will always save you HUGE money.
Hey everyone: this is a good little tool to have just in case the plastic drain plug gets stuck or broken a little. It’s also easier to get to using this socket thing. I’m not the one selling this or anything, I just bought one recently and love it. Makes flushing coolant so much easier
www.etsy.com/transaction/1658916734
Kendall Wright I tried to look up the tool, but it said page not found.
michael cooper sorry this should be the right link:
www.etsy.com/listing/263299928/toyota-tacoma-radiator-drain-petcock?ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-1&frs=1
Thanks for sharing that. I'm sure some of our viewers will find it quite useful!
i thought the 07 sequoia and tundra still use the same 4.7 L engine.
They do. So the 5.7 liter engine is the same across the board from 2007-2021 and the 4.7 was in existence until around 2009/2010ish where it was replaced by the 4.6. The process and procedure are fundamentally the same.