Thanks for this video. I only needed to replace the clicker, with screw, spring and washer, but didn't see how it was supposed to go together. Just catching a glimpse of it at 1:18 showed me what I needed to know.
This is the third fierce series reel combo ur2.pl/2314 I've bought and I can't say enough about the value. I work these reels and rods pretty hard because I fish several times a week on Jetties and in the surf, so they can beat up but they've never let me down and are easy to maintain. Great value!
Penn started their business in the 1930s with the intent to provide good quality and affordable fishing equipment to the general public. Fishing reels were very expensive at that time and Penn succeeded in bringing lower cost quality products to market. That continues today with the Pursuit and Fierce and Battle products - Thank you for posting - Dennis
Hi Dennis, thanks for this video. I recently found a surf fishing rig washed up on the beach at low tide. The rod needed only a rinse, but the reel - Penn Fierce 7000 - was so caked with sand that it was frozen up. After watching your video, I was able to disassemble, clean, reassemble the reel successfully, so you've given this piece a 2nd Chance. In particular, your reference to mysticparts.com and the schematics found there was very helpful. I referenced the diagram a few times while reassembling and that was a very helpful resource.
Sounds like a great find and a experience. I'm glad it worked for you and I appreciate you watching and providing feedback. Best wishes for great fishing with your newly acquired rod and reel! Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
I remember that shim on my Mitchell 304. I have a very early 304 and have two additional spools. I don’t have this reel as it is too modern for me. Also it was probably made in China and I steer clear of Chinese built reels particularly the earlier ones. I get the Penn USA reels for my collection. Still this is a decent design. I like reels with a AR that can be adjusted on or off. Great video as always!
Thanks again Christopher. Yes, the reel is made in China. Many manufacturers have eliminated the anti-reverse over-ride feature due to the instant A/R roller clutch. It was a trade off.
Awesome video! I have the same real and I’m trying to figure out exactly what’s wrong with it. I know for sure that it needs new bearings, but I can’t figure out why the rotor cup feels like an out of balance tire when you spin the reel. I can’t tell if it’s just not sitting flush for some reason, or if the whole rotor cup got severely damaged and is out of shape. And advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Is the rotor nut on tight? There should not be up and down play or a rocking motion when you grab it to test. Have you removed the rotor? If you did, check the stack against the schematic to make sure it is back on correctly - Dennis
Yes it is on tight and I’m pretty sure the stack is correct. The bearings were shot so I ordered more. Hoping that will fix the issues. Looks like the rotor cup was spinning so out of balance that it was scraping the main housing that it spins around.
Hi Dennis. Thanks for the great video. I'm unable to pull my pinion and bearings out; they are stuck to the frame (see 12:40-12:45 of your video). Any advice on how to pull them out? I tried putting the rotor nut back on the pinion gear, then putting that nut in a wooden bench vice and pulling. No dice. Soaking in WD-40 right now. Thanks.
That's a common problem that is hard to solve - the metal bearing and metal case often fuse together. You approach with the penetrating oil should help. You can also try heating the inner part of the case and bearing with a plumbers torch for about 20 seconds. Be careful if you try this. It also assumes you have a replacement bearing. The bearing and the case are made of two different metals and will expand at different rates, so heat may help free it up. Best wishes - Dennis
I have 2 6a fin.nor reals that were working I cleaned them now they don't engage something wrong with lever drag on both their must be a trick?what do you think
Hey Dennis, I have a Penn Battle that it little stiff and needed a good cleaning. I tore it all down cleaned and regreased everything, put it all back together and its still stiff. What is the most likely problem area? Thanks.
It sounds like a bent axle shaft. If you had difficulty taking it out when you tore the reel down, the is likely to be the cause. You can test this by removing the screw that holds the axle shaft to the crosswind block and moving the axle shaft up and down through the pinion gear. If there is a stickiness or it is hard to pull through at any point then the shaft is bent and would need to be replaced. This is more common then you may think. If the axle shaft moves freely, then check the shims on the main gear. You may need to remove one as the compression from the side plates may be tightening the movement too much - Let me know if that helps - Dennis
I have a Penn Fierce II that I took apart and cleaned. Now it feels sticky with the smallest load on the reel. I don't think the axle shaft is bent. I think I may have left out a shim causing the gear mesh to be to tight? Could that be the culprit? Thanks I enjoy your videos!
Thanks - It may also be that you have over-tightened the rotor, which is hard to do with the cap nut. The shim washers do a lot with a little. They true up the mesh of the gears. You may want to try to add or subtract one to see if that helps - Dennis
Thanks for the reply. I had 2 shims stuck together on the main gear outboard bearing. I kept one there and moved the other to the inboard bearing. The reel feels better but still slightly sticky? I also have some play in the handle. Is it possible I need to add more shims? And if so, where is the best place? I had originally broke the main gear and things haven't seem just right since I replaced it. Thanks again!
Dennis thanks for the videos. I have a Penn Fierce 2 6000 that has a secondary anti-reverse. One is an anti reverse gear another is underneath the rotor period after doing some maintenance it now clicks and cannot stop it. Any thoughts?
Check to make sure you installed the eccentric spring correctly. That spring goes on the collar that sits on the pinion gear. The right angle tip goes in the pin hoe of the A/R holder and that holder fits over the stud on the A/R dog. When you reel, the spring pulls the dog in and away from the rotor. The clicking you are hearing says that is not happening, so you most likely do not have the spring and holes installed properly. Let me know if that helps - Dennis
Hey Dennis I'm having problems with uneven line lay on my penn fierce II 4000, it's looking like a top with more line at the top of the spool than the bottom. Would adding an extra thrust washer fix that? Also love this in depth breakdown of the reel.
@@allentrevino9280 There is a click tongue under the spool and the click ratchet under the spool shim washers. If you have raised the stack it is possible that the click tongue will not connect with the ratchet. Make sure you have the spool tightened all of the way down as the softness in the new install may also cause the separation
I have a Penn Fierce II 4000 and I was caught in a heavy rain and wind on the beach about 2 years ago. The sand was blowing like crazy as well. When I got home, the reel was a mess. I could barely turn it. I found sand everywhere. I followed this video way back then and never got it smooth. In fact I tried on several occasions since then. The schematic for the reel shows a pinion bushing outside the rotor, when in reality it fits in the clutch/sleeve assembly. Additionally, it appears that it’s missing the picture of the shim washer on each bearing that connects to the main gear? Somehow, even with those in place and what I think is a clean and re-greased reel, it still feels like it’s grinding, like the teeth don’t mesh properly ? There is what I would describe as a little side to side play in the handle. I don’t know the cause of it or if they normally have it? Do you have any suggestions? I almost think of if there was a shim washer the same thickness as the rotor nut washer on the main gear, that it would eliminate this “play”. I just know. Something is obviously wrong. It WAS smooth pre sand storm. It’s merely sitting on a shelf since and I take it apart each fall watching your video, hoping to take it back down to the beach and get some more flounder at the pier. Any ideas? Thanks, Eric
It sounds like either the shims are not on the main gear or another type of gear mis-alignment unless there is still sand inside. If both are as they should be, then the gears may be scarred or worn as a result of the sand abrasion. You may need to replace them. - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle What’s the cost of you examining the reel, excluding parts, S&H to/from? Here’s a video of me comparing my Fierce III 5000 vs my Fierce II 4000. Now , I just put it back together based on the 5000 and it seems better. The handle isn’t lose anymore. It just sounds like it’s not greased well.
Hi I have an original version of the penn fierce. I put 30 lb braid on the reel. I added to a 7 ft tsunami rod. I feel like its not as smooth when reeling in like its stuck on something. its a little struggle reeling in. do you know what that could be?
That sounds like braid slip. Did you back spool with about 10 yards of monofilament line before you added the braid? If not, it may be slipping and causing your problem. If it is severe enough, the braid may be bunching and uneven on your spool. That is a sure sign. - If you did not back it, I would try removing the line by spooling it on another reel to save it and then reinstall it after putting the mono on at the start. - Dennis
Have you serviced the reel recently? It may need the oil and lube. If it isn't that, then some part is failing - bent axle shaft would be my first guess if the reel is well lubed and clean inside - Dennis
I need help with my original fierce 5000 the bail will not stay open(no click. I replaced the rotor but it’s still broke :/ There is a plastic piece that is broke. Perhaps the bail arm???
If you can send me a picture to my email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com I will try to identify the issue and failing part for you. It is not the rotor that makes the bail open or close. - Dennis
It is bent if it is working otherwise but just sagging. That droop occurs by force. The bail wire would have hit or been hit by something like a pier rail or boat gunwale or even stepped on. If that is the case, you can gently resend it up to restore it to its original height - Dennis
I do not remove a bail unless it is broken or performing poorly. There is no need to do that. The schematic for this reel should show you what you need to know. Watch this video on a KastKing reel beginning around the 7:20 mark. The process is the same as you would use on your Fierce reel. ruclips.net/video/wJU38jWHChs/видео.html
Hi Dennis another awesome video. I was wondering if you have a "parts" Daiwa AS1350 spinning reel in your collection. I have one i am trying to restore. I have the spool but I need a spool cap, and parts number #23 anti reverse claw plate and a #42 handle washer. I will gladly pay for them if you happen to have one. Thanks
Please send me a note to my email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com. I have a partial reel that may have some of your parts. I can send you pictures and will also need pictures of your reel and the spool parts you need. Thank you Denis
I have a few I would like for you to service.1 Penn fierce 4000 (original version). 1 Shimano spirex 4000f and one Shimano Nexave C5000 HG FE. Do you have a website...or how can we set something up. Thanks...Rob from NYC.
Thanks for the video! Cleaning the old grease and re-greasing made the reel like new again!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the note and for watching - Dennis
Thanks for this video. I only needed to replace the clicker, with screw, spring
and washer, but didn't see how it was supposed to go together. Just catching a glimpse of it at 1:18 showed me what I needed to know.
Glad to have helped. Thanks for the note and for watching - Dennis
FANTASTIC video. This is my wife’s reel (right side handle 🤷♂️). Never been serviced. 🤭
Thanks for the note and thanks for watching - Dennis
Thank you for the help. I have this same reel that I was going to throw away. After following your video it’s back in the front lines.
Glad I could help! Nice to hear it has a 2nd Chance - Dennis
Thank you Denise, professional as always.
I appreciate the feedback - Please stay tuned - Dennis
Hi Dennis, thanks for your advice on my penn fierce 2 4000 with managin line problem....
Glad to help. Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
This is the third fierce series reel combo ur2.pl/2314 I've bought and I can't say enough about the value. I work these reels and rods pretty hard because I fish several times a week on Jetties and in the surf, so they can beat up but they've never let me down and are easy to maintain. Great value!
Penn started their business in the 1930s with the intent to provide good quality and affordable fishing equipment to the general public. Fishing reels were very expensive at that time and Penn succeeded in bringing lower cost quality products to market. That continues today with the Pursuit and Fierce and Battle products - Thank you for posting - Dennis
Just saved me a ton! Thank you!
Glad it helped! Best wishes - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle The reel you saved caught me a few catfish tonight. Haha
Hi Dennis, thanks for this video. I recently found a surf fishing rig washed up on the beach at low tide. The rod needed only a rinse, but the reel - Penn Fierce 7000 - was so caked with sand that it was frozen up. After watching your video, I was able to disassemble, clean, reassemble the reel successfully, so you've given this piece a 2nd Chance. In particular, your reference to mysticparts.com and the schematics found there was very helpful. I referenced the diagram a few times while reassembling and that was a very helpful resource.
Sounds like a great find and a experience. I'm glad it worked for you and I appreciate you watching and providing feedback. Best wishes for great fishing with your newly acquired rod and reel! Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Thanks buddy!
YW - best wishes - Dennis
I remember that shim on my Mitchell 304. I have a very early 304 and have two additional spools. I don’t have this reel as it is too modern for me. Also it was probably made in China and I steer clear of Chinese built reels particularly the earlier ones. I get the Penn USA reels for my collection. Still this is a decent design. I like reels with a AR that can be adjusted on or off. Great video as always!
Thanks again Christopher. Yes, the reel is made in China. Many manufacturers have eliminated the anti-reverse over-ride feature due to the instant A/R roller clutch. It was a trade off.
Awesome video! I have the same real and I’m trying to figure out exactly what’s wrong with it. I know for sure that it needs new bearings, but I can’t figure out why the rotor cup feels like an out of balance tire when you spin the reel. I can’t tell if it’s just not sitting flush for some reason, or if the whole rotor cup got severely damaged and is out of shape. And advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Is the rotor nut on tight? There should not be up and down play or a rocking motion when you grab it to test. Have you removed the rotor? If you did, check the stack against the schematic to make sure it is back on correctly - Dennis
Yes it is on tight and I’m pretty sure the stack is correct. The bearings were shot so I ordered more. Hoping that will fix the issues. Looks like the rotor cup was spinning so out of balance that it was scraping the main housing that it spins around.
Hi Dennis. Thanks for the great video. I'm unable to pull my pinion and bearings out; they are stuck to the frame (see 12:40-12:45 of your video). Any advice on how to pull them out? I tried putting the rotor nut back on the pinion gear, then putting that nut in a wooden bench vice and pulling. No dice. Soaking in WD-40 right now. Thanks.
That's a common problem that is hard to solve - the metal bearing and metal case often fuse together. You approach with the penetrating oil should help. You can also try heating the inner part of the case and bearing with a plumbers torch for about 20 seconds. Be careful if you try this. It also assumes you have a replacement bearing. The bearing and the case are made of two different metals and will expand at different rates, so heat may help free it up.
Best wishes - Dennis
I have 2 6a fin.nor reals that were working I cleaned them now they don't engage something wrong with lever drag on both their must be a trick?what do you think
I am not aware of a trick. It sounds like something into lever arm is mis-aligned or missing - Dennis
Hey Dennis, I have a Penn Battle that it little stiff and needed a good cleaning. I tore it all down cleaned and regreased everything, put it all back together and its still stiff. What is the most likely problem area? Thanks.
It sounds like a bent axle shaft. If you had difficulty taking it out when you tore the reel down, the is likely to be the cause. You can test this by removing the screw that holds the axle shaft to the crosswind block and moving the axle shaft up and down through the pinion gear. If there is a stickiness or it is hard to pull through at any point then the shaft is bent and would need to be replaced. This is more common then you may think. If the axle shaft moves freely, then check the shims on the main gear. You may need to remove one as the compression from the side plates may be tightening the movement too much - Let me know if that helps - Dennis
I have a Penn Fierce II that I took apart and cleaned. Now it feels sticky with the smallest load on the reel. I don't think the axle shaft is bent. I think I may have left out a shim causing the gear mesh to be to tight? Could that be the culprit? Thanks I enjoy your videos!
Thanks - It may also be that you have over-tightened the rotor, which is hard to do with the cap nut. The shim washers do a lot with a little. They true up the mesh of the gears. You may want to try to add or subtract one to see if that helps - Dennis
Thanks for the reply. I had 2 shims stuck together on the main gear outboard bearing. I kept one there and moved the other to the inboard bearing. The reel feels better but still slightly sticky? I also have some play in the handle. Is it possible I need to add more shims? And if so, where is the best place? I had originally broke the main gear and things haven't seem just right since I replaced it. Thanks again!
Dennis thanks for the videos. I have a Penn Fierce 2 6000 that has a secondary anti-reverse. One is an anti reverse gear another is underneath the rotor period after doing some maintenance it now clicks and cannot stop it. Any thoughts?
Check to make sure you installed the eccentric spring correctly. That spring goes on the collar that sits on the pinion gear. The right angle tip goes in the pin hoe of the A/R holder and that holder fits over the stud on the A/R dog. When you reel, the spring pulls the dog in and away from the rotor. The clicking you are hearing says that is not happening, so you most likely do not have the spring and holes installed properly.
Let me know if that helps - Dennis
Hey Dennis I'm having problems with uneven line lay on my penn fierce II 4000, it's looking like a top with more line at the top of the spool than the bottom. Would adding an extra thrust washer fix that? Also love this in depth breakdown of the reel.
Yes = adding another washer will raise the spool and allow the line to travel lower to even out the line lay - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle thanks for the help, your channel is great for learning how to service my Penn reels, again thank you.
@@2ndChanceTackle is it normal that the drag clicker doesn't engage when the second washer is added?
@@allentrevino9280 There is a click tongue under the spool and the click ratchet under the spool shim washers. If you have raised the stack it is possible that the click tongue will not connect with the ratchet. Make sure you have the spool tightened all of the way down as the softness in the new install may also cause the separation
You're Awsome, very certain and that's look. Aloha
Thank you so much! Aloha - Dennis
I have a Penn Fierce II 4000 and I was caught in a heavy rain and wind on the beach about 2 years ago. The sand was blowing like crazy as well.
When I got home, the reel was a mess. I could barely turn it. I found sand everywhere. I followed this video way back then and never got it smooth. In fact I tried on several occasions since then.
The schematic for the reel shows a pinion bushing outside the rotor, when in reality it fits in the clutch/sleeve assembly.
Additionally, it appears that it’s missing the picture of the shim washer on each bearing that connects to the main gear?
Somehow, even with those in place and what I think is a clean and re-greased reel, it still feels like it’s grinding, like the teeth don’t mesh properly ?
There is what I would describe as a little side to side play in the handle. I don’t know the cause of it or if they normally have it?
Do you have any suggestions? I almost think of if there was a shim washer the same thickness as the rotor nut washer on the main gear, that it would eliminate this “play”. I just know.
Something is obviously wrong. It WAS smooth pre sand storm. It’s merely sitting on a shelf since and I take it apart each fall watching your video, hoping to take it back down to the beach and get some more flounder at the pier.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Eric
It sounds like either the shims are not on the main gear or another type of gear mis-alignment unless there is still sand inside. If both are as they should be, then the gears may be scarred or worn as a result of the sand abrasion. You may need to replace them. - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle What’s the cost of you examining the reel, excluding parts, S&H to/from?
Here’s a video of me comparing my Fierce III 5000 vs my Fierce II 4000. Now , I just put it back together based on the 5000 and it seems better. The handle isn’t lose anymore. It just sounds like it’s not greased well.
Hi I have an original version of the penn fierce. I put 30 lb braid on the reel. I added to a 7 ft tsunami rod. I feel like its not as smooth when reeling in like its stuck on something. its a little struggle reeling in. do you know what that could be?
That sounds like braid slip. Did you back spool with about 10 yards of monofilament line before you added the braid? If not, it may be slipping and causing your problem. If it is severe enough, the braid may be bunching and uneven on your spool. That is a sure sign. - If you did not back it, I would try removing the line by spooling it on another reel to save it and then reinstall it after putting the mono on at the start. - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle I do have mono backed first. Then the braid was put on.
Have you serviced the reel recently? It may need the oil and lube. If it isn't that, then some part is failing - bent axle shaft would be my first guess if the reel is well lubed and clean inside - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle it hasn't been serviced. I might do it anyways. I don't think it has been. barely used it and plan to use it more for inshore.
I need help with my original fierce 5000 the bail will not stay open(no click. I replaced the rotor but it’s still broke :/
There is a plastic piece that is broke. Perhaps the bail arm???
If you can send me a picture to my email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com I will try to identify the issue and failing part for you. It is not the rotor that makes the bail open or close. - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle I believe it’s the pivot arm. I am getting a new one along with a new spring. I’ll let you know the outcome
Quick question. What would cause the bail wire to droop downwards?
It is bent if it is working otherwise but just sagging. That droop occurs by force. The bail wire would have hit or been hit by something like a pier rail or boat gunwale or even stepped on. If that is the case, you can gently resend it up to restore it to its original height - Dennis
I was hoping you would have disassembled the bail so I could see how the internals look, I think mine is broken
I do not remove a bail unless it is broken or performing poorly. There is no need to do that. The schematic for this reel should show you what you need to know. Watch this video on a KastKing reel beginning around the 7:20 mark. The process is the same as you would use on your Fierce reel. ruclips.net/video/wJU38jWHChs/видео.html
Does it matter which way the star shaped thing on the axle shaft goes?
Rounded or shiny side faces up or towards the spool - Dennis
Oil can attract dirt and contamance too
es, but it will not hold it like the greases do
@@2ndChanceTackle I disagree with you but it’s ok. We all have our options
Hi Dennis another awesome video. I was wondering if you have a "parts" Daiwa AS1350 spinning reel in your collection. I have one i am trying to restore. I have the spool but I need a spool cap, and parts number #23 anti reverse claw plate and a #42 handle washer. I will gladly pay for them if you happen to have one. Thanks
I will need to check when I get back to my shop this afternoon. Please remind me if I do not get back to you. Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle will do.
Please send me a note to my email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com. I have a partial reel that may have some of your parts. I can send you pictures and will also need pictures of your reel and the spool parts you need.
Thank you
Denis
@@2ndChanceTackle thanks Dennis I sent you a few emails. Hope you got them.
I have a few I would like for you to service.1 Penn fierce 4000 (original version). 1 Shimano spirex 4000f and one Shimano Nexave C5000 HG FE. Do you have a website...or how can we set something up. Thanks...Rob from NYC.
Rob - please send a note to my email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com and I will send you the repair and servicing information. Thanks for asking - Dennis
First