Making NEW Guitar Parts Look OLD | Axe From The Grave
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2021
- The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/csguitars09211
Artificial ageing is an important technique in the repair and restoration of old guitars, we don't want new parts or repairs to stand out, they need to look as old as the rest of the instrument.
In this video we show the process of taking new hardware and matching the age to the rest of the guitar.
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The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/csguitars09211
Humbucker kits supplied by Alegree - www.alegree.co.uk/collections/pickup-building
Tools from Crimson - www.crimsonguitars.com/?ref=csguitars + Discount Code 'CSGUITARS5' for 5% OFF
Strings and cleaning equipment supplied by D'Addario
This video contains paid promotion from Skillshare
#relic #guitar #axefromthegrave
More from CSGuitars:
Gain access to exclusive content at: www.patreon.com/csguitars
Join CSGuitars Discord - discord.gg/d7b6MY8
Buy CSGuitars Merchandise - www.csguitars.co.uk/store
Website - www.csguitars.co.uk
Contact - colin@csguitars.co.uk
____________________________________________________________________
*Description contains affiliate links. Purchasing using one of these links will generate a small commission for CSGuitars at no additional cost to you.*
Affiliate Links:
Thomann - www.thomann.de/gb/index.html?offid=1&affid=367
Sweetwater - imp.i114863.net/2mGGg
Reverb - reverb.grsm.io/csguitars
Crimson Luthiery Tools - www.crimsonguitars.com/?ref=csguitars + Discount Code 'CSGUITARS5' for 5% OFF
Gthic Jewelry - gthic.com/?aff=230 + Discount Code 'colin20' for 20% OFF
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Join the discussion at:
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Technically this is Axe to the Grave since you’re aging it
would love it if you could do a video on properly soldering guitar parts, a lot of videos out there already assume you have some experience and say things like "get good solder" and "once your iron is up to tempterature" but never say what is "good solder" or "proper temp" and minimal advice on technique and having a video that goes over this stuff would be great
I'm assuming "good solder" means 60/40 rosin core and not to fuck around with lead-free. Proper temperature varies with the material you're working on, you want it hot enough that the solder will flow onto the material but not so hot as to instantly fry the wire or whatever. Somewhere around 700ºF (Or 375-400ºC if you hate the freedumbs) *
*DISCLAIMER: I'm a soldering noob myself, but I've watched a number of basic soldering tutorials and done a handful of things that have held up and not needed re-soldering. (Granted, I've re-watched tutorial videos before basically every attempt)
@@thygod I prefer 63/37 solder. No joke!
Yes, use a hot iron -- I bought a Weller soldering station, which was quite a bit more money than a basic hardware store pencil, but it was very much worth it to me. If you can get a soldering station with an adjustable temperature (40w for fast recovery), yes, your 700F is a good temp. I actually work hotter (735-750) and quickly, as the iron spends less time on the joint, and is less likely to heat up the rest of the part. This takes practice, though. Don't practice on a cherished guitar or other important project!
If your iron doesn't have an indication that it's up to temperature, test it with a piece of solder. If it readily melts the solder onto the tip, it's ready. If it sorta melts the solder, let it heat up more. Once it's hot, clean the tip with either a wetted sponge, or a copper soldering iron tip cleaner (preferable, as it doesn't cool the tip). "Tin" the tip of the iron with solder -- this means to melt solder onto the tip and let it flow around. Some solder may drip off, so be careful!
If you're soldering stranded wire, tin the wire before making the joint -- heat the wire up with the soldering iron, then touch the solder to the wire and let it flow through the strands. This takes only a very little bit of solder. Work quickly; heat will travel up the wire the longer the iron is touching it, and it could burn you. If you're not ready to work quickly, hold the wire with pliers. If you see your insulation starting to melt, remove the heat, let it cool, and try again.
Then, heat up the joint you're going to solder. Touch the solder to the joint, not to the tip of the iron. You want the joint to melt the solder, so the solder freely flows all around it and makes a good, solid contact with the whole joint.
I just love these peckups
Guitar playing, guitar and pickups building, amplifiers electronics and mods, and now painting? Do you really want the rest of us to feel silly or what ? :D Joking aside I really like your portrait !
1. Take new parts
2. Throw in the river for 6 months
Job done.
The only aging that I like is precisely what You've done in this video, which is an attempt to make repairs, mods and restorations blend in.
I love that Colin uses the old advert alert strip in the top right 🙂
My sweat has a habit of aging pickups. I'm happy to rent out my forehead.
Nicely done. Up to now I'd only used Ferric Chloride to etch PCBs, had no idea about this kind of use. This sympathetically maintained the guitars patina. So cool!
(And the pickups sound great too!)
Thanks Colin.
Missed opportunity to greeny the neck pup and put it in Backwards
5:40 - Pickups
6:49 - Metal aging
Great tutorial! How long do you leave the covers in the vinegar “fume chamber?” Minutes? Hours?
And wow, those pickups you wound sound amazing! Well done!😊
Hey, did you ever find an answer to this anywhere? I'm about to try this and was wondering the same thing, not having any luck finding any information on the duration of exposure though.
@@flapjack413 I just decided to experiment. First batch I left in for about 20 minutes and it was too much. IIRC, somewhere between 10 & 15 minutes seemed to net good results.
Colin...my mother is from Blantyre (about 20 min. south of Glasgow)...I love watching your vids not only for the fantastic info you impart, but also because your accent is like music to my ears!!...Keep up the great work!!...
RM
Looks great amigo!🤘😎🤘
I recently relic'd one of my Gibson Les Paul Traditionals that was already pretty beat up from use and used ferric chloride to age all the nickel hardware. It works great!
My method was similar except I would dip a piece of hardware in for about 5 seconds, and then put the piece in a water bath and then dry.
"Officer i swear that bridge said it was 18!"
Great video actually. The etching solution is amazing, ready mixed, not too strong, not too week. Used it to etch a pedal enclosure in 15 minutes.
Fantastic job Colin 🤙🏼
Great stuff!
Nice work Gary Oldman from The Fifth Element
Awesome! Not causing deep scratches but surface wear is the key.
Thanks, bro, this is so timely! I have a custom shop journyman strat, and I had to get a new whammy bar for it. I was wondering how to age it a little bit to match the aged bridge!
I love my Gianinni SG 1977, had to even have rotten wood on the arm replaced, still love it
Sounds like a million bucks! Did you record the audio to tape?!!? That's awesome!
I've had Bare Knuckle pickups fitted to both my Les Pauls, and my SG. In one Les Paul the is a set of PG blues, they are alnico 2, and unpotted, they sound wonderful!
Awesome! It really looks like a real 57 now.
Apart from the truss rod cover off course!👍😁
Nice advert for Tesco vinegar lol.
Kinda want to upgrade and then relic my old off-brand p-bass now because of this
Love that old school advert warning 😅 great job. Will help with my les Paul jr project 🎉
I got a 97 ebony with gold trim Les Paul. And HAD to change some parts. Bought everything in gold and then rubbed each piece for just enough wear to keep them even. But didn't mark up the tuners cause these don't actually get that kind of wear. But the Tonespro locking bridge and tailpiece do look right in my eyes and the plastic has enough wear to match the body wear marks so none of it looks off. But what's really unbelievable is how much wear my Paul has compared to my Amer deluxe plus Strat. The Strat is 4 yrs older yet looks so much cleaner and prettier.
I was planning on replacing my tail piece and bridge because they look a little worse then whats in the vid. But now after this I kinda wanna keep that natural badge of honor. And I just put some gold humbucker covers on it and hopefully they get ugly fast with my playing lol. Nice vid thank you!
Hi Colin, I have a TATA, I've always wanted to know what's up with frets and fret sizes? What are the pros and cons? I'm thinking about building a Partscaster and part of it is choosing a neck. What should I take into consideration when choosing the frets size? Thank you!
Looks great! How long do you leave it in the vinegar?
Very nice. I often see relic jobs that went way too hard, or have wear in unrealistic ways. I thought the pickup rings were replaced cause they are not as yellowed as the other plastics.
Will this work with gold hardware? Any tips to that end?
Always love your content; thanks for what you do.
gold tops are so cool.
hey man! do u have a method to age/yellow a bit the inlays ?
Morning discord pplz and lord/master Colin.
Is it possible to use the fume chamber technique on locking vintage style tuners?
I'm planning to install a set on my road worn strat but they don't look aged enough to match the rest of the hardware on the guitar.
hi , how long you have to wait with the winegar? thank you
I love working with nickel, I use a concrete cleaner, I can’t remember what it’s called. I place the hardware in a container , then set that in another container containing the solution. It’s extremely strong and should be done outside. I let it sit for 30 minutes at a time only allowing the fumes to get on the parts. Take them out and wipe them down. Once level of aging is achieved I wash them off, dry them and reinstall. If after the first season is not enough, then I do another 30 minute round. Works great!
I believe you're speaking of muriatic acid.
@@flapjack413 that’s it! Thanks!
Hi, yesterday I tried to relic a Gibson part nickel pickup cover with ferric chloride but after I wet it with water and cleaned it with a handkerchief it returned shiny and no longer opaque ... what should I do?
Did you also do the checking on the body?
If’n I ever get to a 42GearStreet I’m definitely bringing my speed relicing kit🤘🏽. Ya think customs will give me static about the logging chain… I’ll just check that bag of hammers and abrasive and my time accelerator cabinet (mostly UV-C and high oxygen / high pressure) . 🤘🏽
I also offer home relicing services for a nominal fee.
Colin... I love you man 😘💪
I have an epi LP and I believe the hardware is nickel? What works better? Muriatic acid or this?
Jacky Grealish what are you up to 😂
Hi again Mr Colin trusty luthier !
Why you wax potted the pickups with the black "glass" 3M tape already placed around the 42 or 43 gauge copper wire ??
I know that the 3M tape glue will not stick to the Parafin Wax if previously done but my guess is that if you do a couple of tape overturns, it will stick well onto itself or I can also add a drop of CA glue to secure the 3M tape onto itself.
Can you share your input on this matter, please ?
Thanks in Advanced......Mr True YT Treasure
heres a tata: can pickups be installed upside down? as in does it matter which end of the pickup goes under the high and low E respectively
Definitely the covered ones look much better than the original ones. Me I love a gold top
Well, the guitar already rocked, but those pickups and aged patina on the covers just ties the whole vibe of the guitar together. It now rocks, and call me crazy, but I love guitars that aren't perfect. That means they have character.
What kind of tuner was that?
… AND he can paint?! Dammit Colin stop being so talented
can you prevent the finish on the guitar from cracking
bit late to comment, but how long do you leave the parts in the vinegar box?
as long as required to get the desired look.
it's all brand new :P
6:39 Does it have to be Tesco brand vinegar, or can I use any 5% solution of acetic acid?
Any without a Union Flag draped across it would be ideal tbh...
Is the johnsons powder a product placement, Colin?
Does this work with Chrome parts?
Not too afraid to ask
Can you do a video explaining Wah Wah the way that only you can?
Matte nickel covers FTW!
Nice video, give away the og pickups!
OK, so I haven't yet got past 1:13 minutes; the pick guard looks like it has been made to look old?
That abr1 bridge sits in the wrong way. (Screws should be at the opposite side. Screws are held with a retainer or without on some.. The angle of the strings to the stop bar/ tailpiece can lift the saddles up and or put uneccessary strain on the retention clip and you can have weird Citar-effect or strings not ringing at best.) Gibson installs these always the other way. (Screw heads to the pickup side) It's the (bigger wider) "Nashville" style bridge which has the screws through holes that's placed like the way you have it in this video.
But of course it's your instrument.😉
1. The saddles were slotted and installed for this bridge orientation.
2. It allows access to the intonation screws without having to lower the bridge pickup.
@@ScienceofLoud did you read what I wrote?
@@klauscottonswab2322 did you read what I wrote?
@@ScienceofLoud Yes, someone who would interpret what I said correctly would not have One-Two'd me and answering questions with questions. Someone who seeks malice or and is insecure would.
Not very nice. Unsubbed.
God I wish I could do all this... I can barely change strings lol
You had me at "aging like a fine cheese"! Had to pause the video to wait for my immature giggling to subside.
All right then. Carry on, sergeant major.
it is impressive how guitars naturally age. I've only been playing my "new" guitar for 6 months and some spots are already starting to wear... I wonder how it'll look in 20 years!
I’ve been playing my Les Paul for 25 years. Only minimal wear on the bridge and tuners.
Your ABR-1 is on backwards.
Upon a longer look, it seems from the positions of the saddles that you did this intentionally for better intonation in a dropped tuning. Carry on!
It's also far easier to adjust the intonation if the screws face the tailpiece.
Is the baby powder “tone powder”?
It reduces friction allowing the fast moving wire to slip through the hand without catching on the skin.
Significantly reduces how often the wire snaps when winding.
@@ScienceofLoud Ahh… baby fresh pick ups! I figured that’s what you were using it for. That LP is sweet!
What about buying a couple of used covers on internet?
What about it?
For some people, (myself included) nothing beats the satisfaction of achieving the desired result through your own efforts.
And then there's the factory-made relic of brand new gear.
There's a lot of things I'd spend money on before paying some bloke called Murphy to scratch my new les paul.
@@anomalousresult I'm with you, but I was talking about the Gibson factory making relics out of new gear. They have a man cutting cracks into the nitro with a razor blade. They even have signature relics - a dent for dent and scratch for scratch copy of Billy Gibbons' LP.
Put the pickups up for a winner in a contest????
Guitarists when their new guitar is damaged: 😡
Guitarists when their old guitar isn't damaged: 😡
How about show us how to ding them up like a real gaged guitar? Otherwise it looks fake aged without any dings Lol
I can only relicing string , by not changing it for one year.
the result looks very old and rusty.
Honest to God I though you were gonna be a guy from LA instead a glorious Scottish accent has gretted me I am happily surprised
Axe to the grave?
Stop this man! He’s modifying his guitar the way he wants it to look! But I hate relicing so no one should do it!!!!! /s
couldnt you just have bought raw nickel covers? it wouldnt have the damage but would look dull straight away and age faster than finished nickel
not really a fan of relic guitars, I just don't like shiny chrome.
Why not just use the old cover?
There wasn't an old cover
Que bosta, guitarra velha
Super disappointed with the sales pitch on something not relevant to the topic. At least sell me on something relevant.