This is seriously cool! I'm big into 3D printing action figures myself and now I have to get some of this. That said, I'd very much like it if they made this in white so it can be dyed and thus avoid painting certain parts.
I have an idea for a model, you dont have to make it but it would be cool. The idea is a large-ish troop transport air vtol thing. And also, nice video
I've found that you can make th72, thats th72 resin parts scratch resistant. My theory is that scratch resistance is a measure of Ipa resistance. Since switching from ipa to awesome degreaser ive made some awesome functional th72 parts. The key is heating your ipa alternative. With 2 separate baths of heated awesome degreaser is simply wisks away the resin and floats down to the bottom. Saving you some awful smells and all the detail is there, now with some function.
@teccotoys indeed, I'll tell you this and feel free to see what you think. La's awesome degreaser is pretty safe to heat in as it's non Toxic and non flammable so that's a plus, in addition to that, when I withdrew the prints and let dry, the recessed areas that would normally be pooled with resin appeared glossy but I could still see the detail lines. That's with warm degreaser, I haven't tried hot.
On the Resinone site they say you should use 0.05mm gaps for a proper fit. Is this what you are using for your models? IT sounds rather large which is why I am asking. I though it was supposed to be a gap more towards 0.12mm or 0.02mm for a nice and tight joint.
I don't use exact measurements. It's more of a trial and error fit, since a lot of it also depends on type of resin used and ideal layer exposure for said resin. I added resin and settings recommendations for each model in each product description on the shop website, which are based on my experience and produce perfect results if you follow those strictly.
The M58/Anti-Impact mix seems to be more durable and less shrinking. Almost a month has passed and I noticed some shrinking with the test print. Joints have become quite loose, definitely more than with the M58/Anti-Impact mix which I usually use.
@@teccotoysinteresting! The shrinkage I could accept & design for but reduced durability (in miniature scale) means I'd be adding anti impact or tenacious. That defeats the purpose of buying Tough 74 outside of the black color option. Why would I buy it over M58 or Fast Mecha? Thank you very much for your in hand opinion and feedback. Your work is valuable!
I am running a Mono X. At default, I print with 8 bottom layers at 60 seconds with 3 seconds normal exposure on my regular layers. I print at 70% UV power. Should I still bump up my exposure time? These setting are FAR FROM DEFAULT regarding my machine, but they produce great prints without fail. Now using this resin though... I do not know what to do. Lol!
This looks amazing, super crisp print and quality. May i ask about your settings and what machine do yo use? I want to explore this kind of resins for some projects, gundam-like models and using standard resin it just doesn’t work. I use Lychee as my main slicer so a video of your setup could be great. Great video by the way, you are the only one that i know that does this super niche content.
Thank you! I’m currently printing on a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K. You can find all the settings on the Resione website. They have a list of settings for all their resins in the supports section for all sorts of printers and slicers. I basically use their recommended settings, then only adjust the layer exposure, base layer count and base layer exposure. Base layer count: 10 base layer exposure: 50 seconds. Layer exposure between 2-3 seconds. The exact layer exposure depends on your models, so it’s best to run a test range with different exposure times to determine what works best for you. I can highly recommend all Resione resins, they print perfectly and I have had no failures in a long time. When you use their tough resins, you need to post UV cure the prints for at least 30 minutes. Ideally at 60 degrees C. If you don’t have a heated curing chamber, you can simply heat up the prints in a drying oven after UV curing.
That’s great! I have the same printer so im going to do some tests and see what happens. I have the Mercury X Plus for curing so i assume that’s enough right? Also, you clean this resin just with IPA?
I'd like you to make it work in other ways. I can't do that even if I want to make it from a strong resin, so every time I put it together, my joints get smashed...😢😢 And if possible, I would like to purchase a product with only a skeleton without modeling like 4:11
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Brings a bit of joy to my day whenever one of your videos pops up on my feed. Can't wait to get my 3D printer in a month or so.
This is seriously cool! I'm big into 3D printing action figures myself and now I have to get some of this. That said, I'd very much like it if they made this in white so it can be dyed and thus avoid painting certain parts.
I have an idea for a model, you dont have to make it but it would be cool. The idea is a large-ish troop transport air vtol thing. And also, nice video
I've found that you can make th72, thats th72 resin parts scratch resistant. My theory is that scratch resistance is a measure of Ipa resistance. Since switching from ipa to awesome degreaser ive made some awesome functional th72 parts. The key is heating your ipa alternative. With 2 separate baths of heated awesome degreaser is simply wisks away the resin and floats down to the bottom. Saving you some awful smells and all the detail is there, now with some function.
Interesting!
@teccotoys indeed, I'll tell you this and feel free to see what you think. La's awesome degreaser is pretty safe to heat in as it's non Toxic and non flammable so that's a plus, in addition to that, when I withdrew the prints and let dry, the recessed areas that would normally be pooled with resin appeared glossy but I could still see the detail lines. That's with warm degreaser, I haven't tried hot.
On the Resinone site they say you should use 0.05mm gaps for a proper fit. Is this what you are using for your models? IT sounds rather large which is why I am asking. I though it was supposed to be a gap more towards 0.12mm or 0.02mm for a nice and tight joint.
I don't use exact measurements. It's more of a trial and error fit, since a lot of it also depends on type of resin used and ideal layer exposure for said resin.
I added resin and settings recommendations for each model in each product description on the shop website, which are based on my experience and produce perfect results if you follow those strictly.
How does it compare to M58 + anti impact (mixed) with regard to durability? Thank you for your informative and helpful videos :)
The M58/Anti-Impact mix seems to be more durable and less shrinking.
Almost a month has passed and I noticed some shrinking with the test print. Joints have become quite loose, definitely more than with the M58/Anti-Impact mix which I usually use.
@@teccotoysinteresting! The shrinkage I could accept & design for but reduced durability (in miniature scale) means I'd be adding anti impact or tenacious. That defeats the purpose of buying Tough 74 outside of the black color option. Why would I buy it over M58 or Fast Mecha? Thank you very much for your in hand opinion and feedback. Your work is valuable!
I am running a Mono X. At default, I print with 8 bottom layers at 60 seconds with 3 seconds normal exposure on my regular layers. I print at 70% UV power. Should I still bump up my exposure time? These setting are FAR FROM DEFAULT regarding my machine, but they produce great prints without fail. Now using this resin though... I do not know what to do. Lol!
Just give it a try with a small print first, see how the outcome is with your typical settings. I'm sure it will work :)
@@teccotoys it will get here tomorrow. I will start with a head sculpt.
So this stuff is a god send for making custom Bionicle pieces lol
This looks amazing, super crisp print and quality. May i ask about your settings and what machine do yo use? I want to explore this kind of resins for some projects, gundam-like models and using standard resin it just doesn’t work. I use Lychee as my main slicer so a video of your setup could be great. Great video by the way, you are the only one that i know that does this super niche content.
Thank you! I’m currently printing on a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K. You can find all the settings on the Resione website. They have a list of settings for all their resins in the supports section for all sorts of printers and slicers.
I basically use their recommended settings, then only adjust the layer exposure, base layer count and base layer exposure. Base layer count: 10 base layer exposure: 50 seconds. Layer exposure between 2-3 seconds. The exact layer exposure depends on your models, so it’s best to run a test range with different exposure times to determine what works best for you.
I can highly recommend all Resione resins, they print perfectly and I have had no failures in a long time.
When you use their tough resins, you need to post UV cure the prints for at least 30 minutes. Ideally at 60 degrees C. If you don’t have a heated curing chamber, you can simply heat up the prints in a drying oven after UV curing.
That’s great! I have the same printer so im going to do some tests and see what happens. I have the Mercury X Plus for curing so i assume that’s enough right? Also, you clean this resin just with IPA?
K+ seemed to work well for you. How does it compare to K+?
❤🎉
200% next, please
Resione doesn't ship to my country...
I'd like you to make it work in other ways. I can't do that even if I want to make it from a strong resin, so every time I put it together, my joints get smashed...😢😢
And if possible, I would like to purchase a product with only a skeleton without modeling like 4:11