I wouldnt mind those bubbles on the top. When I built my Donkey Kong bartop I made my own side stickers, inkjet on big stickers. Although it looked cool in the start, it faded horribly over a couple of years even without the thing being in direct sunlight. Well I have now ordered vinly stickers which are even bigger and is no doubt going to be just as nervous about applying those. :) - Looking forward to your next video!
I wouldn't worry about the vinyl crease matey. You'll only notice it if your staring at it and you'll be looking down at the screen anyway. Reject buttons look great!
@@AndysArcade Heat gun or hairdryer is your best bet, the angles aren't that tight so you will be fine. I thought it didn't go round the top but I was mistaken it does but there are no 90 degree angles to worry about.
Looks great Andy. I like it. I was nervous when I put my first vinyl on making sure it was all level. Looking forward to seeing control panel vinyl and buttons fitted.
Andy wouldn’t imagine to be to difficult. I always check you tube to pick up tips on how to cut stuff on different surfaces. Sent you my ion icade arcade images via email. Was my first attempt. 😂 but you live and learn. Ended up selling it before Xmas. Going to build a 19” 5:4 version later this year.
Enjoyed the vid Andy - sorry about that bubbled edge. I'm restoring some old arcade cabs, and that scares me too! Haven't done any artwork yet. Really like the colored reject buttons - just got a TMNT project cab and want to do that on it too. Thanks!
Andy, I think we all get a little nervous about applying artwork. You pretty much have 1 shot, but its not hard once you do it a time or 2. Align it -- Tape it across the middle and do half at a time. I use the Rapid-Tac . its awesome stuff and will save you bacon if you need to peel up & re-align.
@@AndysArcade I would use the rapid Tac it makes it easier to reposition. Sure it helps with the bubbles a lot but it also gives you a chance to reposition it. According to the information about this product, it actually improves the adhesion to the surface. First clean the surface with the product, then spray down the surface with the product, apply the art squeegee out the excess, let it dry. If your art has a white backing paper over it, then you want to spray that down with rapid Tac to make it easy to remove
Been waiting for this video, Easter special !! . The coin slots bring elegance to the cab, the lights give it a moden appeal and the little atari metalic stickers are a unique addition. I am impressed at the fact the artwork fitted almost completely perfect to the nearest mm, i think the only reason it is slights creased is because of the thickness and quality of the vynl, the only possible way tostop the crease is to cut it with a blade and have it flat, then put the top piece as close as possible to the edge so it looks like one whole piece, this is possibly the easiest and most cost effective way rather than getting a new peice of steel or attempting to re apply in someway. At the end of the day if it is cut perfectly to the top of thesteel, then it will be FLAT and wont peel off or bubble. Joystick bauble tops are magnificent, you have sanded them down well. I think its sooo good of a project, Atari should send you some freebees. Great to watch yet again Andy, keep up the work mate SUPERB
What about a slight heat from a heat gun to make the plastic more flexible in the corners. I would have chosen a aluminium plate. Lot easier to work with = jigsaw. Great work, love Your channel.
I could live with that marque I wouldn't bother remaking it but if its really bothering you buy the sheet with the smaller holes and take it to a machine shop and let them bend it for you then it will be perfect. Also use a hairdryer to heat up the sticker when you fold it over the edge. You're doing a hell of a job man it looks better than an original I think, atari didn't care as much as you do on how it looked hahaha.
Andy I feel your pain with the bubbles! I have a few very small ones in my control panel that are driving me crazy... If you find any secrets to get them out, please share!
@@AndysArcade me are right on the edge by my t Molding where I missed trimming the artwork perfectly. I don't think mine is an issue of air more than the Molding. I did use a hair dryer to heat it up and that seemed to help quite a bit.
Been following the whole time - this has inspired me to start my own build after procrastinating for 10 years... just one question - the LED holders you are using for the reject buttons... Could you possibly point me in the right direction for where to get some? Thanks in advance..
Looks good mate. Played this as a young kid at a local hotel game room back in the day. Loved it!
Looks good don't beat your self up. At the end the of day it is your work. Looks great!
Sanding the ball-tops was a good idea. Makes all the difference.
I wouldnt mind those bubbles on the top. When I built my Donkey Kong bartop I made my own side stickers, inkjet on big stickers. Although it looked cool in the start, it faded horribly over a couple of years even without the thing being in direct sunlight. Well I have now ordered vinly stickers which are even bigger and is no doubt going to be just as nervous about applying those. :) - Looking forward to your next video!
I wouldn't worry about the vinyl crease matey. You'll only notice it if your staring at it and you'll be looking down at the screen anyway.
Reject buttons look great!
Looks great, Andy!
That is spot on to the t molding on my original cabinet.
@@AndysArcade Heat gun or hairdryer is your best bet, the angles aren't that tight so you will be fine. I thought it didn't go round the top but I was mistaken it does but there are no 90 degree angles to worry about.
@@AndysArcade for tight corners make a V notch
Looks great Andy. I like it. I was nervous when I put my first vinyl on making sure it was all level. Looking forward to seeing control panel vinyl and buttons fitted.
Andy wouldn’t imagine to be to difficult. I always check you tube to pick up tips on how to cut stuff on different surfaces. Sent you my ion icade arcade images via email. Was my first attempt. 😂 but you live and learn. Ended up selling it before Xmas. Going to build a 19” 5:4 version later this year.
Enjoyed the vid Andy - sorry about that bubbled edge. I'm restoring some old arcade cabs, and that scares me too! Haven't done any artwork yet. Really like the colored reject buttons - just got a TMNT project cab and want to do that on it too. Thanks!
Looking good my man.
Andy, I think we all get a little nervous about applying artwork. You pretty much have 1 shot, but its not hard once you do it a time or 2.
Align it -- Tape it across the middle and do half at a time. I use the Rapid-Tac . its awesome stuff and will save you bacon if you need to peel up & re-align.
@@AndysArcade I would use the rapid Tac it makes it easier to reposition. Sure it helps with the bubbles a lot but it also gives you a chance to reposition it. According to the information about this product, it actually improves the adhesion to the surface. First clean the surface with the product, then spray down the surface with the product, apply the art squeegee out the excess, let it dry. If your art has a white backing paper over it, then you want to spray that down with rapid Tac to make it easy to remove
Been waiting for this video, Easter special !! . The coin slots bring elegance to the cab, the lights give it a moden appeal and the little atari metalic stickers are a unique addition.
I am impressed at the fact the artwork fitted almost completely perfect to the nearest mm, i think the only reason it is slights creased is because of the thickness and quality of the vynl, the only possible way tostop the crease is to cut it with a blade and have it flat, then put the top piece as close as possible to the edge so it looks like one whole piece, this is possibly the easiest and most cost effective way rather than getting a new peice of steel or attempting to re apply in someway.
At the end of the day if it is cut perfectly to the top of thesteel, then it will be FLAT and wont peel off or bubble.
Joystick bauble tops are magnificent, you have sanded them down well.
I think its sooo good of a project, Atari should send you some freebees.
Great to watch yet again Andy, keep up the work mate SUPERB
She's coming along nice.. Love the videos!
What about a slight heat from a heat gun to make the plastic more flexible in the corners. I would have chosen a aluminium plate. Lot easier to work with = jigsaw. Great work, love Your channel.
It was for the control panel I would have chosen a aluminium plate, not a galvanized steel plate as You say in the video. Best greetings from Denmark.
Looks Great Andy! In the future, use a hair dryer to heat up the art as you bend it around the edge. Its so much easier that way.
I could live with that marque I wouldn't bother remaking it but if its really bothering you buy the sheet with the smaller holes and take it to a machine shop and let them bend it for you then it will be perfect. Also use a hairdryer to heat up the sticker when you fold it over the edge. You're doing a hell of a job man it looks better than an original I think, atari didn't care as much as you do on how it looked hahaha.
bosch 28mm hole cutter with quick release arbour from screwfix Andy ;)
Andy I feel your pain with the bubbles! I have a few very small ones in my control panel that are driving me crazy... If you find any secrets to get them out, please share!
@@AndysArcade me are right on the edge by my t Molding where I missed trimming the artwork perfectly. I don't think mine is an issue of air more than the Molding. I did use a hair dryer to heat it up and that seemed to help quite a bit.
Been following the whole time - this has inspired me to start my own build after procrastinating for 10 years... just one question - the LED holders you are using for the reject buttons... Could you possibly point me in the right direction for where to get some? Thanks in advance..
Thanks Andy :-)