Thank you very much for your detailed explanation of the different types of D/Ts you've used. I have built many models using D/Ts but never tried to put one inside the fuselage. I'm currently building a Jimmy Allen "Skokie" and would like to try your method. Your excellent article and pictures allows me to not have to "reinvent the wheel". Extremely helpful. Thanks again.......@@maxfliart
I used to dread covering my models, any type, size. That is, until I came upon this channel. Now I revel in the “ confetti fest”, because it is “therapeutic”. Thanks Tom. Beautiful video, as usual.
Beautiful plane, beautiful video - took me back to the paper & balsa I built in the 70s - and the smell of the dope :) You've captured the essence and romanticism of model building and flight all in 18 minutes. May there be endless sky above you. Happy flying.
Build included style videos are so great, Tom. So much to learn, and not just for beginners either! It's great that you named this wonderful Skokie for Zinnia. A great flyer, and a simple enough cabin model, as you say, for most folks to have a go at. I like the black front decking/prop, it gives gravitas whilst allowing the overall scheme to be nice and colourful! Hoping all well, and at Flying Aces too. As ever, MOST impressive. ⭐👍
On the strength of these wonderful videos I went and reawakened my boyhood and bought a Skokie kit. Carefully following all the advice I get almost exactly the same flight times as in this video, I have not dared to go to 2,000 turnes though. My flying field is much smaller, also I am not sure if I am calculating loop length / max turns correctly, I have been to 650 but it seemed very tight. Two observations 1. How did we managed without CA glue? 2. How did we manage without braided motors? Many thanks, a new world has opened for me!
Great to hear. I started out using 2 loops of 3/16" rubber, with each loop being 42"...which gets me close to 2,000 turns. I suspect you folded a single 42" loop over making it two loops, each 21", which would give you a very bursty motor.
Another great video, so thank you! I've had this model on my wish list to build for a year or so and as you say, it's a great model to build for a first or second free flight rubber model. Looking forward to your next video Tom!
Another beautiful model and video. Your talent for staging the still images and video clips really elevates the videos to a professional level. When I was flying R/C or control line planes, my favorite part was actually the building process and I can tell that you probably feel the same way. I wonder if the makers of the "Skokie" model kit would have dreamed that the model would still be being built almost 90 years later. Also, thanks for taking the time to compile the extensive list of resources in the description.
Thx, Steve. I appreciate the kind words. Process has always intrigued me, so during the building, I can't help but recognize the changing light, especially in the morning, where I build.
Beautiful job, great to see these vintage type aircraft still being built! I recently purchased a Keil Kraft Caprice sailplane which was the first FF I ever built with my dad, and plan to convert to RC, something that would not have been easily possible in the 80's. There is something oddly calming though about launching a plane and just watching it fly with an uncontrollable fate.
Thx for the comments. I've found a lot of joy & satisfaction from building the models from our youth. I'm still looking to build a Sinbad glider of undetermined span. Should be a floater. Truly loving towline gliders these days.
@@maxfliart Hi Tom, can I suggest the Sinbad 40 - Outerzone oz 3869, I'm part way through building this from the plan and as you say, this design certainly gives a floater plane. Cheers, Marc
@@marcolyott Good suggestion, Marc...one that I've been chasing all my life, as it was the first model that I remember seeing my dad fly in the late 50s. I have the kit & plan in many of the Sinbad sizes, but have not yet built her. The 40 is moving higher on my build list for sure.
I have always liked the Skokie. Question, Did you use the original undercamber rib design, or use a flat bottom variant? I like your interpretation of the landing gear struts, What wire dia. did you use? Thanks for sharing Tom.
Another beautiful build and video! I just really love the way you compose your videos and the music you add. I recently discovered your channel and really appreciate your content. I've been thinking of building the Easy Built Models Skokie for now and maybe plans built later. Do you use Titebond for all your balsa glue joints? Thanks!
Hi Tom! The Skokie is probably one of the best fliers of the JA planes. It is somewhat reminiscent of the Flying Aces Moth, another fine flier. I own one of those Country Club aero Thunderbolt kits as you showed earlier in the video, a COOL piece! I also own a rather rare TOMASCO kit of the Thunderbolt. It is a LOW wing plane with a nose very like a P-6-E Hawk. Interesting model! The sponsor for that one was a different Oil Company from The CC Aero Thunderbolt, which was a Skelly sponsorship. The Skokie is also known as the B.A. Cabin, as the British-American Oil Company sponsored it in Canada. REALLY neat stuff! Thanks for sharing your BEAUTIFUL build! Very inspiring!
Thx, Brian. I've spun them with as small as 1/16" dia. dowels...for very small wheels of course. I probably could've gone smaller with this for the Skokie, 3/16" perhaps, but she's somewhat of a brute, so I opted for the 1/4".
Tom, you are such an inspiration - thank you for these videos. I have learned so much from these. A question or two about applying tissue - you mention around 10:00 about using an emory board to help with the damp tissue - but I thought you apply the tissue dry? Mist afterwords? or before?
Thx, Steve. I cover with the tissue dry, but then float the rubbing alcohol thru the tissue onto the frame, which softens the glue, allowing you to move the tissue and pull it tight with the emery board.
A few curiosities on my part. What is you method of applying windows, etc. to your models? I see on this one that the side windows are on the outside of the fuselage frame and the aft side is just squared off. Also saw on another video that the "pilots and passengers" seemed to be attached to the window itself. What type of adhesive is used to prevent obscuring the clarity of the images or fogging the plastic? Beautiful flyer as ever by the way.
Using a pin, I attach with small spots of CA on the corners and mid-span, then cap with tissue or card stock. The pilots are glued to the longerons, which gives the impression of being right up against the windows. This time however I had her centered on a thick piece of card stock for flex, attached to the fus. cross piece...but eventually the rubber knocked her loose, so now I put them on the sides as described. Thx for asking and for the kind words.
@@maxfliart Thanks, producing a Jr. Commercial now and will add my pilots that way. Is that a brass thrust button on the nose and where are they sourced?
@@davidbarfield1431 The brass buttons that I used came from a '40s hobby shop, but you can create the same using four pronged nailheads, then drilling the hole for the prop shaft. Here's a link, many options: www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=four+prong+nailhead&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
Another masterpiece! Things have changed since I used to build. Gluesticking the tissue on and no more doping, for instance. Does the Krylon matte spray tension the paper? I recall spritzing my covering with water, if memory serves. Thanks Tom.
Thx. No, the water still shrinks the tissue, but the Krylon is like magic in a can, since it freezes the tissue 'after' the tish is shrunk with water...meaning the tissue will never shrink beyond that point, with the benefit being that warps will rarely appear. Not the same with dope of course. Now the tissue will surely wrinkle in the damp morning or evening air, but once it goes tight again, it'll stop shrinking too tightly. If that's bothersome, then go with dope, which creates a tough skin of sorts...but comes with the potential of the warp monster.
There are many factors that lead to a model flying left or right. The initial torque of a motor wants to pull the model to the left, so we counter that with right thrust. As the torque wears off, the thrust setting is less impactful, so the model can slide or transition to the left. The opposite can happen too, if the modeler prefers to fly left, with the torque. Typically, the free-wheeling prop wants to pull the model gently to the right after the power runs out. All of this can be tweaked, by using rudder adjustments, or wing tip weight, or gurney flaps under or above the trailing edge of the wing. It's the game we all play, but once you've dialed in a model, it's quite beautiful.
Thx. I've listed my cams in the film description, but for most of the flying footage, I'm using a rather old Canon PowerShot SX20. It's only 720p, but the 20X optical zoom gets u close enough for FF. Other B roll footage is with various iPhones.
The foam wheels were each 1.2g, while the balsa were nearly twice that...yet I decided to go old school with this model and stay with balsa. I was trying to build it as close to how my dad would've in the late 1930s.
I just started my long forgotten hobby, but I can’t find any rubber itself in Canada, do you have any idea? also tissue, I got few from online store, I could start this hobby, 30years ago stopped, I thought it was silly things but never forget my dream and my kids encouraged me to build airplane again. I can start to build gliders for a while. if I can find any rubber, I want to build airplane like you built, for my kids. kids likes your airplane so much so do I. beautiful job and also your beautiful life, I think.
Welcome back to the hobby. Have you tried ordering from any of the groups listed in the film description? I have many flying friends in Canada, and I've not heard of any issues with getting supplies. Most of us buy rubber from FAI Model Supply, who sells internationally.
A newbie (falling down a balsa/tissue aircraft RUclips rabbit hole) asks; You applied the tissue amazingly evenly. But you didn't show the tissue being shrunk or treated in any way before or after application. Was this simply omitted from the video for brevity, or was it not needed?
Thx for the question. Yes, in this video I didn't show the entire process. But check out this Free-Flight Basics #2 for a complete film on covering, a wing in this case. ruclips.net/video/A_Hap0gT9Pg/видео.html It shows the shrinking of the tissue at the 17 minute mark. It also shows the prep work. Check out the entire series. There's a lot there for FF newbies. Have fun!
@@maxfliart Thanks for that, I've headed for the whole "basics" playlist. It's not an insurmountable issue, but the order of the playlist doesn't match the numbers in the episode titles?
The old sport planes used balsa propellers and therefore had long noses. If you substitute a heavy plastic prop, you will need to shorten the nose accordingly during construction, or add ballast to the tail (Not good for moment of inertia).
Nicem re Lia ble "commercial" design from the 3's. We livem in Wnil,enter just next to Skokie, Illinois.Both town and cabin ,ode l named after Indian tribe.
Perhaps show how to drill a centered hole in the end of a dowel. Good demo for making the wheels and showing them installed but never how to get the hole there. Free Flight
Yeah, that's one part that I hadn't filmed. An oversight. I cut the one side of the dowel close to the hub, then use a push pin to start a pilot hole, adjusting as needed to find that center point, while I slowly spin the wheel / dowel with my hand. I'll start drilling with a pin vise, eyeballing the drilling as I spin the wheel (and dowel on the other side ) with my other handle. I'm usually successful with coming close to center on the other side, once I trim it off. But yes, it'd be a good tutorial to show the process fully. Thx for the heads up.
@@johnmcdermott245 Thx for the heads up. He's changed his website, so I'll revise the link. Here it is, with the Badge timer at the bottom for $20. He usually sells 3 for $50 if you ask. www.starlink-flitetech.com/timers.html
@@maxfliart A very effective dethermalizer is a fixed propeller - no freewheeler. Optimal motor lands just as the last turn comes out of the motor. Easier weight and balance.
My comment keeps getting deleted. Try again. I will leave out the link. Stick glue breaks delicate structures, is hard to get on evenly and leaves lumps. I experimented with dissolving it in isopropyl alcohol. 70% didn't work well, but 91% did. Different glue brands worked differently. Elmer's clear dissolved completely. Others left a residue, but the supernatant worked. Make a saturated solution. Apply with a brush, enough to leave a gloss. It dries tacky, so the tissue can be repositioned. Final fixing with brushed alcohol and finger pressure, as in the video.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Would appreciate any details on your D/T installation. Beautiful job as always.....
Thx for the comments. I used a DT system similar to the Fokker, Waco & Mureaux shown near the end of this article. www.hallmanstudio.com/DT.pdf
Thank you very much for your detailed explanation of the different types of D/Ts you've used. I have built many models using D/Ts but never tried to put one inside the fuselage. I'm currently building a Jimmy Allen "Skokie" and would like to try your method. Your excellent article and pictures allows me to not have to "reinvent the wheel". Extremely helpful. Thanks again.......@@maxfliart
I used to dread covering my models, any type, size. That is, until I came upon this channel. Now I revel in the “ confetti fest”, because it is “therapeutic”. Thanks Tom. Beautiful video, as usual.
Just lovely. It's just very satisfying watching a rubber-powered aircraft with a slow-turning prop.
Oh. For Zinnia. Brought a tear. Of joy.
Looks like a stout model, like your heart must be.
I remained attached to the screen all time long. Thank you for sharing your secrets. No words to express my respect for your art and skill. Ciao Nanni
I love these type of build and fly videos. Great job friend.
Glorious! brings me back to a simpler time of my youth.God bless!!
Absolutely beautiful. The romance of modelling. :-)
Wunderschöne Flüge,da macht das zu schauen Spass.Vielen Dank für den Film.Gute Arbeit.
Thx. Glad you enjoyed it.
Love all the Jimmy Allen airplanes. My favorite is the B-A Parasol. They all fly very well and are so beautiful.
I was late to the Jimmie Allen party, but I've really enjoyed the ride. My fav. so far is the Spartan Bomber.
Wonderful, all round. Well done - again! Jealous of your flying field and the beautiful weather. We rarely get days like this in the UK these days.
Beautiful plane, beautiful video - took me back to the paper & balsa I built in the 70s - and the smell of the dope :)
You've captured the essence and romanticism of model building and flight all in 18 minutes. May there be endless sky above you. Happy flying.
Thx for the kind words.
Awesome thanks ❤
It bears repeating, this is what it's all about. And ZZ is a great pilot.
This is one of the models I plan on building, I just haven't been to the print shop yet.
Wow just a beautiful airplane! Your an amazing builder flyer! The sunset flight at the end was Epic!
Thx. It was a sunrise, but memorable for sure. I was surprised that she flew that long in the cooler, damp air.
Thank you for sharing your talent and so many tips.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful techniques!
ZZ sure looked proud of her namesake, and flew a beautiful dawn sunrise 🌄 flight.
My BA Cabin AKA "Skokie" is an awesome flier. Fairly easy build, you won't be disappointed.
beautiful !
handsome plane
Awesome! Well done !
Beautiful. Zinnia is an excellent pilot.
Thx, John. I love having her up front. When I see her from the ground, it gives me a smile.
Some great construction and covering tips. Thank you!
Thx.
Beautiful plane nice flyer
Build included style videos are so great, Tom. So much to learn, and not just for beginners either! It's great that you named this wonderful Skokie for Zinnia.
A great flyer, and a simple enough cabin model, as you say, for most folks to have a go at. I like the black front decking/prop, it gives gravitas whilst allowing the overall scheme to be nice and colourful!
Hoping all well, and at Flying Aces too. As ever, MOST impressive. ⭐👍
Thx, William.
So beautiful ❤
On the strength of these wonderful videos I went and reawakened my boyhood and bought a Skokie kit. Carefully following all the advice I get almost exactly the same flight times as in this video, I have not dared to go to 2,000 turnes though. My flying field is much smaller, also I am not sure if I am calculating loop length / max turns correctly, I have been to 650 but it seemed very tight. Two observations 1. How did we managed without CA glue? 2. How did we manage without braided motors? Many thanks, a new world has opened for me!
Great to hear. I started out using 2 loops of 3/16" rubber, with each loop being 42"...which gets me close to 2,000 turns. I suspect you folded a single 42" loop over making it two loops, each 21", which would give you a very bursty motor.
@@maxfliart Thank you, yes! I will try that (once I find a bigger field)
It put perfect yes. Bootiful.
Another great video, so thank you! I've had this model on my wish list to build for a year or so and as you say, it's a great model to build for a first or second free flight rubber model.
Looking forward to your next video Tom!
Good luck with it!
Good stuff, Bubs.
Nice model nice graphics 🎉
Wonderful video!!
Very nice thanks for sharing
Another beautiful model and video. Your talent for staging the still images and video clips really elevates the videos to a professional level. When I was flying R/C or control line planes, my favorite part was actually the building process and I can tell that you probably feel the same way. I wonder if the makers of the "Skokie" model kit would have dreamed that the model would still be being built almost 90 years later. Also, thanks for taking the time to compile the extensive list of resources in the description.
Thx, Steve. I appreciate the kind words. Process has always intrigued me, so during the building, I can't help but recognize the changing light, especially in the morning, where I build.
Beautiful 😊
Excellent
Beautiful job, great to see these vintage type aircraft still being built! I recently purchased a Keil Kraft Caprice sailplane which was the first FF I ever built with my dad, and plan to convert to RC, something that would not have been easily possible in the 80's. There is something oddly calming though about launching a plane and just watching it fly with an uncontrollable fate.
Thx for the comments. I've found a lot of joy & satisfaction from building the models from our youth. I'm still looking to build a Sinbad glider of undetermined span. Should be a floater. Truly loving towline gliders these days.
@@maxfliart Hi Tom, can I suggest the Sinbad 40 - Outerzone oz 3869, I'm part way through building this from the plan and as you say, this design certainly gives a floater plane. Cheers, Marc
@@marcolyott Good suggestion, Marc...one that I've been chasing all my life, as it was the first model that I remember seeing my dad fly in the late 50s. I have the kit & plan in many of the Sinbad sizes, but have not yet built her. The 40 is moving higher on my build list for sure.
I have always liked the Skokie. Question, Did you use the original undercamber rib design, or use a flat bottom variant? I like your interpretation of the landing gear struts, What wire dia. did you use? Thanks for sharing Tom.
Thx, Ed. Yes, I used the under camber. I think it's .047" wire. The Skokie is a bit beefy, so it has helped to stay with a thicker wire.
🇲🇫🇲🇫🇲🇫the flights are perfect. I like to see the construction stages. well done🇲🇫🇲🇫🇲🇫
C'est avec les choses simples,que nous prenons nos plus grands plaisirs en aéromodélisme !
Oui, c’est sûr, j’aime les sensations bon marché du vol libre.
Another beautiful build and video! I just really love the way you compose your videos and the music you add. I recently discovered your channel and really appreciate your content. I've been thinking of building the Easy Built Models Skokie for now and maybe plans built later. Do you use Titebond for all your balsa glue joints? Thanks!
Thx. Yes, most of the joints use Titebond, with the occasional super glue.
Hi Tom! The Skokie is probably one of the best fliers of the JA planes. It is somewhat reminiscent of the Flying Aces Moth, another fine flier. I own one of those Country Club aero Thunderbolt kits as you showed earlier in the video, a COOL piece! I also own a rather rare TOMASCO kit of the Thunderbolt. It is a LOW wing plane with a nose very like a P-6-E Hawk. Interesting model! The sponsor for that one was a different Oil Company from The CC Aero Thunderbolt, which was a Skelly sponsorship. The Skokie is also known as the B.A. Cabin, as the British-American Oil Company sponsored it in Canada. REALLY neat stuff! Thanks for sharing your BEAUTIFUL build! Very inspiring!
Thx, Jeffery. As uv said, I like how some of the JA ships mimic full scale models. I'm a huge fan of flying the Spartan Bomber...epic flights.
Phenomenal 👍🙃👍.
I am sorry for the garbled note. A cabin design was termed a "Vom,ercial." A
So Skokie an Indian tribe .
I’ve made foam wheels on my drill press, but never thought of turning them on a dowel to provide a good bearing surface when trimmed… thanks!
Thx, Brian. I've spun them with as small as 1/16" dia. dowels...for very small wheels of course. I probably could've gone smaller with this for the Skokie, 3/16" perhaps, but she's somewhat of a brute, so I opted for the 1/4".
Super ! Beau travail...me rappelle mon enfance ! J aimerais bien avoir le plan!
Merci. Le lien du plan est dans la description du fil
Tom, you are such an inspiration - thank you for these videos. I have learned so much from these. A question or two about applying tissue - you mention around 10:00 about using an emory board to help with the damp tissue - but I thought you apply the tissue dry? Mist afterwords? or before?
Thx, Steve. I cover with the tissue dry, but then float the rubbing alcohol thru the tissue onto the frame, which softens the glue, allowing you to move the tissue and pull it tight with the emery board.
A few curiosities on my part. What is you method of applying windows, etc. to your models? I see on this one that the side windows are on the outside of the fuselage frame and the aft side is just squared off. Also saw on another video that the "pilots and passengers" seemed to be attached to the window itself. What type of adhesive is used to prevent obscuring the clarity of the images or fogging the plastic?
Beautiful flyer as ever by the way.
Using a pin, I attach with small spots of CA on the corners and mid-span, then cap with tissue or card stock. The pilots are glued to the longerons, which gives the impression of being right up against the windows. This time however I had her centered on a thick piece of card stock for flex, attached to the fus. cross piece...but eventually the rubber knocked her loose, so now I put them on the sides as described. Thx for asking and for the kind words.
@@maxfliart Thanks, producing a Jr. Commercial now and will add my pilots that way. Is that a brass thrust button on the nose and where are they sourced?
@@davidbarfield1431 The brass buttons that I used came from a '40s hobby shop, but you can create the same using four pronged nailheads, then drilling the hole for the prop shaft. Here's a link, many options: www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=four+prong+nailhead&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
beautiful! your models always look soo good, this is an interesting one. Were can i find plans?
Thx. Links are in the film description.
Another masterpiece! Things have changed since I used to build. Gluesticking the tissue on and no more doping, for instance. Does the Krylon matte spray tension the paper? I recall spritzing my covering with water, if memory serves. Thanks Tom.
Thx. No, the water still shrinks the tissue, but the Krylon is like magic in a can, since it freezes the tissue 'after' the tish is shrunk with water...meaning the tissue will never shrink beyond that point, with the benefit being that warps will rarely appear. Not the same with dope of course. Now the tissue will surely wrinkle in the damp morning or evening air, but once it goes tight again, it'll stop shrinking too tightly. If that's bothersome, then go with dope, which creates a tough skin of sorts...but comes with the potential of the warp monster.
@@maxfliart Copy that. Thank you sensei.
I'd like to see you build a Nakajima ki 43 model airplane start to finish.
This is incredible! In California anyone trespassing on a sod farm is going to jail.
I see some free flight rubber planes that circle right under power and then circle left under glide. How does that work?
There are many factors that lead to a model flying left or right. The initial torque of a motor wants to pull the model to the left, so we counter that with right thrust. As the torque wears off, the thrust setting is less impactful, so the model can slide or transition to the left. The opposite can happen too, if the modeler prefers to fly left, with the torque. Typically, the free-wheeling prop wants to pull the model gently to the right after the power runs out. All of this can be tweaked, by using rudder adjustments, or wing tip weight, or gurney flaps under or above the trailing edge of the wing. It's the game we all play, but once you've dialed in a model, it's quite beautiful.
Beautiful , what are you using for a camera .
Thx. I've listed my cams in the film description, but for most of the flying footage, I'm using a rather old Canon PowerShot SX20. It's only 720p, but the 20X optical zoom gets u close enough for FF. Other B roll footage is with various iPhones.
Hey! What was the weight differential between the balsa and foam wheels?
The foam wheels were each 1.2g, while the balsa were nearly twice that...yet I decided to go old school with this model and stay with balsa. I was trying to build it as close to how my dad would've in the late 1930s.
🥰😍🤩😘
Thank you . . . .
I just started my long forgotten hobby, but I can’t find any rubber itself in Canada, do you have any idea? also tissue, I got few from online store, I could start this hobby, 30years ago stopped, I thought it was silly things but never forget my dream and my kids encouraged me to build airplane again. I can start to build gliders for a while. if I can find any rubber, I want to build airplane like you built, for my kids. kids likes your airplane so much so do I. beautiful job and also your beautiful life, I think.
Welcome back to the hobby. Have you tried ordering from any of the groups listed in the film description? I have many flying friends in Canada, and I've not heard of any issues with getting supplies. Most of us buy rubber from FAI Model Supply, who sells internationally.
A newbie (falling down a balsa/tissue aircraft RUclips rabbit hole) asks;
You applied the tissue amazingly evenly. But you didn't show the tissue being shrunk or treated in any way before or after application. Was this simply omitted from the video for brevity, or was it not needed?
Thx for the question. Yes, in this video I didn't show the entire process. But check out this Free-Flight Basics #2 for a complete film on covering, a wing in this case. ruclips.net/video/A_Hap0gT9Pg/видео.html It shows the shrinking of the tissue at the 17 minute mark. It also shows the prep work. Check out the entire series. There's a lot there for FF newbies. Have fun!
@@maxfliart Thanks for that, I've headed for the whole "basics" playlist.
It's not an insurmountable issue, but the order of the playlist doesn't match the numbers in the episode titles?
The propeller of the plane should heavy or the plane should heavy than propeller?
The prop is usually much lighter than the rest of the model.
The old sport planes used balsa propellers and therefore had long noses. If you substitute a heavy plastic prop, you will need to shorten the nose accordingly during construction, or add ballast to the tail (Not good for moment of inertia).
Which rubber do you use?
Most buy it at FAI Model Supply.
Nicem re Lia ble "commercial" design from the 3's. We livem in Wnil,enter just next to Skokie, Illinois.Both town and cabin ,ode l named after Indian tribe.
Can you make one more plane of framming jig method but full process
Check out my Free-Flight Basics series, where you';ll see many films on the building process.
Iam asking a new video
Perhaps show how to drill a centered hole in the end of a dowel. Good demo for making the wheels and showing them installed but never how to get the hole there.
Free Flight
Yeah, that's one part that I hadn't filmed. An oversight. I cut the one side of the dowel close to the hub, then use a push pin to start a pilot hole, adjusting as needed to find that center point, while I slowly spin the wheel / dowel with my hand. I'll start drilling with a pin vise, eyeballing the drilling as I spin the wheel (and dowel on the other side ) with my other handle. I'm usually successful with coming close to center on the other side, once I trim it off. But yes, it'd be a good tutorial to show the process fully. Thx for the heads up.
What is the purpose of the foam wheels?
I was considering the foam because they're somewhat lighter than the balsa wheels. A lighter model leads to longer flights.
Where can I get some of the dethermalizers that you use?
Only the Badge classic is available but it's reliable. The link is in the film description.
The link seems to be broken.
@@maxfliart
@@johnmcdermott245 Thx for the heads up. He's changed his website, so I'll revise the link. Here it is, with the Badge timer at the bottom for $20. He usually sells 3 for $50 if you ask. www.starlink-flitetech.com/timers.html
Elmer's Clear worked well.
How to make double propeller rubber powered plane
Look for the MiG-DIS and Hodek model airplanes on my channel. Both are twins.
@@maxfliart A very effective dethermalizer is a fixed propeller - no freewheeler. Optimal motor lands just as the last turn comes out of the motor. Easier weight and balance.
Free flight rules. Strap an engine on it, and let her go.
My comment keeps getting deleted. Try again. I will leave out the link.
Stick glue breaks delicate structures, is hard to get on evenly and leaves lumps. I experimented with dissolving it in isopropyl alcohol. 70% didn't work well, but 91% did. Different glue brands worked differently. Elmer's clear dissolved completely. Others left a residue, but the supernatant worked. Make a saturated solution. Apply with a brush, enough to leave a gloss. It dries tacky, so the tissue can be repositioned. Final fixing with brushed alcohol and finger pressure, as in the video.