can't thank you enough. it seems so rare that someone with any real skills is willing to share their experience. i am interested to learn about this, having attempted several repairs. you have saved me a huge amount of time and frustration. your patience with this art is so obvious, and it shows as one of the critical skills. thanks.
Wow, in reading the comments I see that I commented a year ago, and totally forgot. To re-state my appreciation today I want to say that your artisan skills are matched by your teaching skills. I love the patient, methodical approach you describe and am equally visually impressed by your pristine organized and aesthetically pleasing workshop space. Thank you, I am astonished that you got ANY dislikes, but it takes a similar soul perhaps to appreciate your meticulousness and step by step description. Thanx for linking to the finished product.
THANK YOU! my mothers ceramic statue just broke and she's really upset about it,it was her only thing left after her grand grandpa died. i will do my best to repair it. thank you so much
Helpfulness aside (very!)- this was truly one of the best tutorials I've ever watched. Very clear, concise instructions, camera on the object and not the speaker, clarification...you ought to teach classes as a side job!
Thank you Victoria!! We have instructed ceramic art for many years - see link below. The need to teach remained, thus the many tutorials on our website ( see second link). Knee kindly, Morty and Patty. lakesidepottery.com/Pages/aboutus.html lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html .
Thank you for so graciously sharing your expertise with us. You devoted an appreciable amount of time and I appreciate your generosity and kindness. I like the alcohol idea, never thought to clean or blend with it. Sticky note too, excellent video.
Nice video. I have broken my favorite Japanese dinner plate and looking for a solution. although I have a vague knowledge of what to do and I have most of the kinds of stuff with me because I do fishing rod building and fine woodworking, so I have all the tools. Now I have to follow the repairing step by step. I saw on TV how Japanese professional fixed the broken pottery, which you have shown at the end. Thanks
Amazing job, applause, wish you were near by to give you my recently broken ceramic, however, I think your lesson will be very useful to try to do it myself
@@dagoosetm3299 I'm so glad to hear that! I'm happy for you! Next time be careful k! Lol 😆 I'm a mother of 4 and I have 9 grandbabies under 4 year's old. We (Mom's/Mimi's) understand that accidents happen. That was very sweet of you to even want to learn how to fix it and make it right for your Mom. Good job 👏
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! Quick question - do you know if the epoxy step shown in the beginning of the video will ensure the item is made waterproof again? My cat's ceramic drinking water fountain bowl cracked perfectly into 2 pieces. Will the epoxy product that you suggested alone ensure that it's made waterproof (assuming it's correctly applied to fill every void)? Thank you again sir!
This was fantastic - my partner devastated at the breakage of a present, as a keen modeller, this has been great to turn my hand to ceramic for the next few days!
What is Kintsugi Art Pottery Repair with Gold, How is it Kintsukuroi Made and Where to Purchase lakesidepottery.com/Pages/kintsugi-repairing-ceramic-with-gold-and-lacquer-better-than-new.htm
So for a piece (in my case, a ceramic jar) that has broken into multiple large and small pieces, how would I go about repairing that? The base is the largest intact portion; should I match and the pieces that attatch to the base, wait for the epoxy to cure, and then do the same for each "row"? The item has immense sentimental value to me, so I'll put in whatever time I have to if I can't find a professional to do it for me. Thank you for your video!
Hi, yes, do one piece at a time and wait for curing. The order of which piece is a bit tricky. You may want to dry-run the order using scotch tape first.
Such a skilled repair... and great to watch this workmanship. In regard to antique Chinese porcelain, repaired many decades or even centuries ago, using metal staples, there is a huge, stunning pair of matching 5-foot-high blue and white porcelain vases at the Hotel Carrington in Katoomba, Australia--one vase sits on each side of the grand fireplace. One has been repaired long ago by the traditional staple technique. On a lesser scale, I own a pair of 14 inch tall blue and white Chinese porcelain vases, one has been repaired, likely in Victorian times, using about 8 small staples. I would urge modern owners who acquire antique items to NEVER tamper with stapled repairs as they form an integral part of an antique item's patina, history and core value. Please never attempt conversion to a modern repair with petroleum based irreversible glues, which may compromise an item's integrity and value. If you don't like the staples, please continue to look elsewhere for another item altogether.
Thank you so much for such a great video.. I have a question, won't the clear epoxy yellow with age? I ask in case one has to mend an area where the epoxy will be visible... thank you in advance..
Yes, the epoxy will yellow with time. The shown subsequent layers in the video are required for a non-yellowing and seamless repair (filler, paint, glaze). See more about painting and glazing in the link below. www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/painting-coloring-repaired-ceramic-sculpture-tutorial.htm
How do you repair a non-glazed/non-painted terracotta sculpture? I am worried about epoxy spillover being shinny and I am thinking removing epoxy is a bit more difficult on unfinished terracotta as it is easily scratched and chipped. Any tips would be appreciated.
So the 91% does not mess up or stain matte ceramic? I bought a ceramic Mexican canister that broke. The inside is glossed over but the outside is decorative, detailed and all matte.
Would this work for ceramic cookware? I found a cracked dish on the curb and it's in mint condition except for one small crack on the side. If I fixed it using epoxy glue would it be food and oven safe?
Thank you for the great video. Yesterday I got a colored lamp base that is glass. Can I use the same technique to repair the thick black glass lamp base. The base is opaque like a matt color. There are missing pieces I need to fill in as well. Thank you, Frank
Hi, interesting video thank you , any tips for taking apart an old repair before re glueing ? Its an 18th century piece that was badly glued later and needs to be redone. Thank you
Can you use air hardening clay for bigger chips? I also need to repair a broken pale blue Wedgewood pot lid and am worried because the crack will show and it has a light blue unglazed surface - what do you suggest?
Air-hardening clay is not a good option. See the link below, lesson #2, for a seamless repair hiding the repair line: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
God I hope this works I have two tea cup saucers that both spilt completely down the middle on both plates thank goodness no pieces are missing. So I have four pieces that make up two different plates.
Very helpful. Thank you. Have a broken piece and someone said they thought it was resin that was poured instead of ceramic. What bonding and filling products would you recommend for that? Thank you.
Same materials and process as recommended in our lessons for ceramic repair. You have to be more careful with sending. See link to several lessons: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
So I have a crockpot (slow cooker) with the ceramic (?) pot having some major cracks that go ask the way through. Would I be able to use "Loctite Instant Mix General Purpose" epoxy and still be able to use the crockpot (slow cooker), or would I need to use something else like super glue, gorilla glue, or something else? It doesn't have to look pretty, it just needs to be able to withstand the temperature and not leak. Thanks in advance!
I had a mug hanle break off after heating in a microwave. It's just the handle, so I shouldn't have to be concerned about if the epoxy is food-safe, but using this method will the repaired handle still be able to support the weight of the mug when full?
Depending on the surface area of the broken cross section and to what temperature it will be subjected to. We always place a metal pin or a peg in a load bearing repair such as a handle.
Forgot to mention that after microwaving (always with a wooden stick, to avoid superheated/exploding water), the mug would sometimes have black residue (looked like pencil shavings) on the outside. From some online searching, it sounds like this apparently indicates the glaze was cracked & I should not use it for food anymore anyway, so planter it is!
What do you think about skipping the PC super epoxy and using just the PC11 to fill large gaps? I imagine it would mean using large globs but I am trying to repair a large ring of damaged (completely lost) porcelain around a tub drain. I'm concerned that the super epoxy would not be as good as just using PC11 for such a material that will interact with water constantly but interested to hear your thoughts. I'm also considering using semi cured JB weld. After a short time I've noticed it turns into a semi-moldable clay-like material and JB weld is the strongest epoxy I've ever used. Heck I've even used it to seal pinhole leaks in piping, holds after years.
You could use just PC-11 and more of it. If it does not shape well given it's softness, you can apply more of it in two or more rounds. Because you are working with functional repair (need to be water proof), I will not use "semi cure" PC-11 or other epoxies - it will compromise the bonding and sealing properties. Good luck with your project!
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! Never again shall I employ a bathtub refinisher (or any other contractor for that matter) without extreme research and ample internet presence. I've learned the hard way that half of all contractors are crooks :C
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! I already have the jar pieced back together; now I just need to do the actual epoxy/filler. Do you have some kind of social media? I'd love to send you pictures when it's done!
Ceramic restoration materials are not food-safe, liquid or heat-proof (over 190 degrees F) and repaired items should not be used on cooking or food serving-ware
for the part missing using a piece of clay will not work. since the clay will shrink also you will need to know what cone of the original pot was fire. also 2 pieces of clay will not glue together after firing unless you put some glaze but even it depend how the piece can be hold. the epoxy option is a better one
Thank you for your thoughts. Note however, ff you use the materials we recommend, your assumptions are not accurate. We have restored thousands of objects as shown. See link for more specifics. lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
Does anyone know how to remove pieces that have been bonded together with clear epoxy already? We glued together one side and discovered that another piece could no longer fit in alignment, putting the whole bowl out of alignment... but the pieces are now together.
Good questions and too simply resolved - see the following link for more clarity. lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/Replacing-stoneware-crock-broken-rim-seamlessly.html
The non-fired clay will work. It will be better to fill the voide with a filler. If it is a big void, you let the first layer cure and continue to add filler.
Thank you you guys are so helpful! You also fix my Korean vase I don’t know if you’re not in the same person that sent it to you recently. It looks great!
Lol - yes and sorry! I need to redo this video and get another set of hands to help out. It meant to be seen only by a local school not knowing that over 250,000 people will be watching it.
This is an excellent tutorial. However try speaking louder so we can hear you better. Wishing you success. Lakeside Pottery is a band. A little misleading.
Thank you for your kind note. Do not know of a Lakeside Pottery Band - who are they? They have used our copy right protected name of 29 years : ) Hope they are good
i don't understand why use as a filler pc-super epoxy, can't the 1st pc-clear epoxy be used as a filler and ontop of it pc-11 fine filler ? i have a bowl to glue, i thought i can pc-clear epoxy and that's it, then i thought, what will happen when i use knife on food and run the blade over the seam exposde epoxy, is it strong enough not to be cut or i must do glazing ? 2nd scenario, on some board 2 years ago, you said you had a project on a glued piece by dow corning silicon DAP, you couldn't sand it nor paint over it, so you had to cut it apart in order to do a seamless job. can i use that alone it sound like it is strong enough by it self to withstand knife in daily use, it will glue and i'll smear it around to fill in, instead of using pc-super epoxy filler and pc-11 fine filler ? the kintsugi looks like a one stage fix, glueing and filling, but does it have a hard surface? in some kintsugi kit they say they use bison epoxy, so i'm back to wondering how is it holding against a knife ? do you know the part number of dow corning silicon, i find rubber cement silicone the board you commented - www.instructables.com/answers/best-adhesive-to-repair-ceramics/ thank you
Hello! The 1st filler is for "bulk filling" it is not sandable to our performance requirements and fails the UV light surface continuity test. It is not needed for typical cracks - you go right to PC11 unless you have a missing piece 1/3" or larger. Using only PC-super epoxy might be sufficient for what you wish to accomplish but terribly fails our expectations. Neither material is suitable for use with food or functionally. Knife will mark any restoration materials (epoxy, fillers, glaze). There aren't any materials out there that will match fired glaze. Also, none of the restoration materials with good performance (bonding strength, sandability, and compatible with subsequent restoration layers such as paint and cold glaze) we know are food safe. Regarding the Dap silicon adhesive, it will not create the right surface for seamless repair that meets our performance expectations. If you smear it around, it would look just like that, smeared around. The Kintsugi process use is proprietary and we use 5-6 stages, gluing, filling, sanding, gold or gold affect bonding material, gold or gold effect metal powder application and burnishing (burnishing is required with real gold only). The usage issues discussed above apply to Kintsugi as well. See more in the link below in reference to why restored items should not be used functionally or with food - refer to Q and A #11. Sorry, we do not use Dap silicone or such so we do not know how and where to source it. All we know about the Dap silicon is that we get a lot of projects post DIY repair attempts and at times, the silicon adhesive removal is more costly that the whole restoration it self. Note that all the above and much more is discussed in our tutorials - see index to all the restoration tutorials below. lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html Questions and answers: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/ceramic-repair-and-restoration-questions-and-answers.htm Thank you for asking these good questions.
![[Basic Kit] Traditional Kintsugi Tutorial - Food safe method - Broken ceramics](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HSQWRxaKEyw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Basic Kit] Traditional Kintsugi Tutorial - Food safe method - Broken ceramics](/img/tr.png)
You can tell you've done this hundreds of times. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us for free
Thank you - with this crazy world, as we age, sharing is the only power we have to illustrate harmony and caring! Good luck with your project
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! We need more people like you in our society! God bless 🙏
can't thank you enough. it seems so rare that someone with any real skills is willing to share their experience. i am interested to learn about this, having attempted several repairs. you have saved me a huge amount of time and frustration. your patience with this art is so obvious, and it shows as one of the critical skills. thanks.
Wow, in reading the comments I see that I commented a year ago, and totally forgot. To re-state my appreciation today I want to say that your artisan skills are matched by your teaching skills. I love the patient, methodical approach you describe and am equally visually impressed by your pristine organized and aesthetically pleasing workshop space. Thank you, I am astonished that you got ANY dislikes, but it takes a similar soul perhaps to appreciate your meticulousness and step by step description. Thanx for linking to the finished product.
Thank you for your kind note Barbara
THANK YOU! my mothers ceramic statue just broke and she's really upset about it,it was her only thing left after her grand grandpa died. i will do my best to repair it. thank you so much
Involve your mom somehow in the repair process. Similar to burying one's own beloved pets, there is acceptance and closure.
does it become stick together ? 🥺 i just broke my mug
One of the clearest, organized, well paced, informative explications of a process. Excellent.
Thank you Elena!
So glad it worked out!
Helpfulness aside (very!)- this was truly one of the best tutorials I've ever watched. Very clear, concise instructions, camera on the object and not the speaker, clarification...you ought to teach classes as a side job!
Thank you Victoria!! We have instructed ceramic art for many years - see link below. The need to teach remained, thus the many tutorials on our website ( see second link). Knee kindly, Morty and Patty.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/aboutus.html
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html
.
This is amazing i would love to repair a lot of old pottery that i have. Thank u this is art!
Thank you for so graciously sharing your expertise with us. You devoted an appreciable amount of time and I appreciate your generosity and kindness. I like the alcohol idea, never thought to clean or blend with it. Sticky note too, excellent video.
This was a superb walk through of the process. Thanks.
Seamless repair. Big statement. Bout to watch. Wow, you deliver. Nice work.
Very informative and helpful. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise!
Great video! Thanks for making.
You've helped me save a family heirloom. Thank you so much!
Nice video. I have broken my favorite Japanese dinner plate and looking for a solution. although I have a vague knowledge of what to do and I have most of the kinds of stuff with me because I do fishing rod building and fine woodworking, so I have all the tools. Now I have to follow the repairing step by step. I saw on TV how Japanese professional fixed the broken pottery, which you have shown at the end. Thanks
Wax warmer is an amazing idea! Wonder if I could use that concept with my resin also? Thank you so much for this!
Thank you very much for the clear and thorough tutorial!
Thank you so very much, you ‘answered’ all my questions in one video!
your voice and accent are so soothing.
What a fabulous presentation! Thank you!
Amazing job, applause, wish you were near by to give you my recently broken ceramic, however, I think your lesson will be very useful to try to do it myself
Hope the repair worked out!
Excellent video I learned so much and appreciate that you made this video for us. Thank you so much.
Very informational, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the only truly instructive video I've found.
Question: Is the the best epoxy for gluing antique stoneware?
Great video thank you!
Me watching this in the middle of the night cuz I broke my moms pot
Good luck fixing it! I'm sure with this great tutorial you will do fine and your mom will be so happy
Giamarie Saponaro thank god it worked
@@dagoosetm3299 I'm so glad to hear that! I'm happy for you! Next time be careful k! Lol 😆 I'm a mother of 4 and I have 9 grandbabies under 4 year's old. We (Mom's/Mimi's) understand that accidents happen. That was very sweet of you to even want to learn how to fix it and make it right for your Mom. Good job 👏
@@dagoosetm3299 I do hope you told your Mom.
Linda Sarafin I did
Wonderful video! Keep up the great work! Thank You!
great interesting and informative tutorial.. thank you.
Helpful. Thank you for taking the time.
Thanks! That was a great tutorial.
Excellent video! Thank you. What is the name of the small spatula you used for the PC super epoxy and PC 11? Cheers
Hi Peter - see link below to our page "Where to get supplies" - look at the very bottom. Good luck with your project!
Hi. Would you suggest that same epoxy product and procedure for a porcelain bowl?
Yes, see link for more details: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! Quick question - do you know if the epoxy step shown in the beginning of the video will ensure the item is made waterproof again? My cat's ceramic drinking water fountain bowl cracked perfectly into 2 pieces. Will the epoxy product that you suggested alone ensure that it's made waterproof (assuming it's correctly applied to fill every void)? Thank you again sir!
@@tomwall2361 It might be water proof for a period of time but your main concern should be food safety. We do not handle functional items.
This was fantastic - my partner devastated at the breakage of a present, as a keen modeller, this has been great to turn my hand to ceramic for the next few days!
What is Kintsugi Art Pottery Repair with Gold, How is it Kintsukuroi Made and Where to Purchase
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/kintsugi-repairing-ceramic-with-gold-and-lacquer-better-than-new.htm
I broke my ocarina and i was so sad this helped 😊
So for a piece (in my case, a ceramic jar) that has broken into multiple large and small pieces, how would I go about repairing that? The base is the largest intact portion; should I match and the pieces that attatch to the base, wait for the epoxy to cure, and then do the same for each "row"? The item has immense sentimental value to me, so I'll put in whatever time I have to if I can't find a professional to do it for me. Thank you for your video!
Hi, yes, do one piece at a time and wait for curing. The order of which piece is a bit tricky. You may want to dry-run the order using scotch tape first.
Watching this cause I broke my coffee mug /bong and I haven’t even used it
Such a skilled repair... and great to watch this workmanship.
In regard to antique Chinese porcelain, repaired many decades or even centuries ago, using metal staples,
there is a huge, stunning pair of matching 5-foot-high blue and white porcelain vases at the Hotel Carrington in Katoomba, Australia--one vase sits on each side of the grand fireplace. One has been repaired long ago by the traditional staple technique. On a lesser scale, I own a pair of 14 inch tall blue and white Chinese porcelain vases, one has been repaired, likely in Victorian times, using about 8 small staples. I would urge modern owners who acquire antique items to NEVER tamper with stapled repairs as they form an integral part of an antique item's patina, history and core value. Please never attempt conversion to a modern repair with petroleum based irreversible glues, which may compromise an item's integrity and value. If you don't like the staples, please continue to look elsewhere for another item altogether.
Thank you so much for such a great video.. I have a question, won't the clear epoxy yellow with age? I ask in case one has to mend an area where the epoxy will be visible... thank you in advance..
Yes, the epoxy will yellow with time. The shown subsequent layers in the video are required for a non-yellowing and seamless repair (filler, paint, glaze). See more about painting and glazing in the link below. www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/painting-coloring-repaired-ceramic-sculpture-tutorial.htm
Excellent video thanks.👍
How do you repair a non-glazed/non-painted terracotta sculpture? I am worried about epoxy spillover being shinny and I am thinking removing epoxy is a bit more difficult on unfinished terracotta as it is easily scratched and chipped. Any tips would be appreciated.
Good content.
Great job 👍
I have an 80 gallon planter pot that is broken. Would I use the same method for it. Thank you bro.
So the 91% does not mess up or stain matte ceramic? I bought a ceramic Mexican canister that broke. The inside is glossed over but the outside is decorative, detailed and all matte.
Would this work for ceramic cookware? I found a cracked dish on the curb and it's in mint condition except for one small crack on the side. If I fixed it using epoxy glue would it be food and oven safe?
See Q&A #11 in the next link: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/ceramic-repair-and-restoration-questions-and-answers.htm
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt thank you so much!!
Please, where can I find the paxi gum?
Thank you for the great video. Yesterday I got a colored lamp base that is glass. Can I use the same technique to repair the thick black glass lamp base. The base is opaque like a matt color. There are missing pieces I need to fill in as well. Thank you, Frank
Hi Frank, yes, mechanically, it will work the same. You will have some chalenges if you decide to paint / glaze the repaired areas
Thank you very much.
Hi, many thanks, but unfortunately, I cannot find the link
Hi, interesting video thank you , any tips for taking apart an old repair before re glueing ? Its an 18th century piece that was badly glued later and needs to be redone. Thank you
For an 18th century piece, you may be better off hiring a professional.
Can you use air hardening clay for bigger chips? I also need to repair a broken pale blue Wedgewood pot lid and am worried because the crack will show and it has a light blue unglazed surface - what do you suggest?
Air-hardening clay is not a good option. See the link below, lesson #2, for a seamless repair hiding the repair line:
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt thank you so much, really appreciated!
God I hope this works I have two tea cup saucers that both spilt completely down the middle on both plates thank goodness no pieces are missing. So I have four pieces that make up two different plates.
Very helpful. Thank you. Have a broken piece and someone said they thought it was resin that was poured instead of ceramic. What bonding and filling products would you recommend for that? Thank you.
Same materials and process as recommended in our lessons for ceramic repair. You have to be more careful with sending. See link to several lessons: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
So I have a crockpot (slow cooker) with the ceramic (?) pot having some major cracks that go ask the way through. Would I be able to use "Loctite Instant Mix General Purpose" epoxy and still be able to use the crockpot (slow cooker), or would I need to use something else like super glue, gorilla glue, or something else? It doesn't have to look pretty, it just needs to be able to withstand the temperature and not leak. Thanks in advance!
Hi Scott, see q&A #11 in the link below:
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/ceramic-repair-and-restoration-questions-and-answers.htm
I had a mug hanle break off after heating in a microwave. It's just the handle, so I shouldn't have to be concerned about if the epoxy is food-safe, but using this method will the repaired handle still be able to support the weight of the mug when full?
Depending on the surface area of the broken cross section and to what temperature it will be subjected to. We always place a metal pin or a peg in a load bearing repair such as a handle.
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt , that might be beyond my current experience level. May have to turn it into a planter or something instead.
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt , also, thanks for the prompt reply!
Forgot to mention that after microwaving (always with a wooden stick, to avoid superheated/exploding water), the mug would sometimes have black residue (looked like pencil shavings) on the outside. From some online searching, it sounds like this apparently indicates the glaze was cracked & I should not use it for food anymore anyway, so planter it is!
Wow! Thanks for showing.
What do you think about skipping the PC super epoxy and using just the PC11 to fill large gaps? I imagine it would mean using large globs but I am trying to repair a large ring of damaged (completely lost) porcelain around a tub drain. I'm concerned that the super epoxy would not be as good as just using PC11 for such a material that will interact with water constantly but interested to hear your thoughts. I'm also considering using semi cured JB weld. After a short time I've noticed it turns into a semi-moldable clay-like material and JB weld is the strongest epoxy I've ever used. Heck I've even used it to seal pinhole leaks in piping, holds after years.
You could use just PC-11 and more of it. If it does not shape well given it's softness, you can apply more of it in two or more rounds. Because you are working with functional repair (need to be water proof), I will not use "semi cure" PC-11 or other epoxies - it will compromise the bonding and sealing properties. Good luck with your project!
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! Never again shall I employ a bathtub refinisher (or any other contractor for that matter) without extreme research and ample internet presence. I've learned the hard way that half of all contractors are crooks :C
Is this glue toxic at all because I would like to use it to fix my favorite mug but am scared I won’t be able to drink from it again.
Additionally, would boiling water be enough to warm the epoxy and filler? Assuming the packaging is even safe to boil, of course.
Boiling water is too hot but warm water (120-140 degree F) will work as long as the water does not mix with the epoxy
@@LakesidePotteryCeramicArt Thank you! I already have the jar pieced back together; now I just need to do the actual epoxy/filler. Do you have some kind of social media? I'd love to send you pictures when it's done!
@@caffienatedtactician Would love to see it facebook.com/lakesidepotterystudio or www.lakesidepottery.com
How do you fix hair line crack? Do I use the same epoxy ?
no info given. Can you cook with it after? a pottery lid, casserole pot lid?.
Ceramic restoration materials are not food-safe, liquid or heat-proof (over 190 degrees F) and repaired items should not be used on cooking or food serving-ware
Please do we have to use the wax warmer to warm the glue or is there any other way to warm the glue? Or can we use the glue without warming it?
You do not have to use wax warmer but make sure room temperature is 70 degree F or more
Thank you I accidentally broke my dads one of a kind vase
Lmao same case but my sister did it but all of us will get in trouble soo...
My granddaughters broke a plate
I am here bcoz I broke my aunts vase :(
My mom broke the flower base by mistake
for the part missing using a piece of clay will not work. since the clay will shrink also you will need to know what cone of the original pot was fire. also 2 pieces of clay will not glue together after firing unless you put some glaze but even it depend how the piece can be hold. the epoxy option is a better one
Thank you for your thoughts. Note however, ff you use the materials we recommend, your assumptions are not accurate. We have restored thousands of objects as shown. See link for more specifics.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
And a link to some before and after examples.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pictures/pottery%20and%20ceramic%20restoration%20before%20and%20after.html
Are you located in USA?
Yes, in Delaware www.lakesidepottery.com
Does anyone know how to remove pieces that have been bonded together with clear epoxy already? We glued together one side and discovered that another piece could no longer fit in alignment, putting the whole bowl out of alignment... but the pieces are now together.
Epoxy is just plastic. Maybe try soaking in acetone to dissolve it out.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/How-to-remove-epoxy-glue-cement-from-ceramic.htm
clay shrinks once fired. how could the clay piece fit properly in place????
Good questions and too simply resolved - see the following link for more clarity.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/Replacing-stoneware-crock-broken-rim-seamlessly.html
can use non-fire clay
The non-fired clay will work. It will be better to fill the voide with a filler. If it is a big void, you let the first layer cure and continue to add filler.
where do I get the PVC Pebbles?
Hi Nina, see link below bottom right of page: lakesidepottery.com/Pages/where-to-purchase-ceramic-restoration-supplies.html
Thank you you guys are so helpful! You also fix my Korean vase I don’t know if you’re not in the same person that sent it to you recently. It looks great!
@@ninacorknew777 Hi Nina, yes it is us (Beautiful celadon bud vase)
There are videos that use milk to glue the pieces. Have you ever tried this? Is the bond strong enough ?
Very weak bond
What is ur address and how much you charge to fix a broken tray ceramic please?
See link to submit estimate request. We are in Delaware. www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/ceramic-repair-and-restoration-request-form.html
I thought from the thumbnail you were gonna tell me to put it in rice lol
I'm sure you realize but make sure you aren't out of camera view. Missed some content out of view. Otherwise super good video and helpful.
Lol - yes and sorry! I need to redo this video and get another set of hands to help out. It meant to be seen only by a local school not knowing that over 250,000 people will be watching it.
Is hot glue an acceptable substitute?
No
Hot glue doesn' t hold. But Sekunde Glue works well, too.
My cat broke my first piggy bank and I burst into tears
mine is ,an old pasta bowl .a by toxin get in the food. .
This is an excellent tutorial. However try speaking louder so we can hear you better. Wishing you success. Lakeside Pottery is a band. A little misleading.
Thank you for your kind note. Do not know of a Lakeside Pottery Band - who are they? They have used our copy right protected name of 29 years : ) Hope they are good
i don't understand why use as a filler pc-super epoxy, can't the 1st pc-clear epoxy be used as a filler and ontop of it pc-11 fine filler ?
i have a bowl to glue, i thought i can pc-clear epoxy and that's it, then i thought, what will happen when i use knife on food and run the blade over the seam exposde epoxy, is it strong enough not to be cut or i must do glazing ?
2nd scenario, on some board 2 years ago, you said you had a project on a glued piece by dow corning silicon DAP, you couldn't sand it nor paint over it, so you had to cut it apart in order to do a seamless job.
can i use that alone it sound like it is strong enough by it self to withstand knife in daily use, it will glue and i'll smear it around to fill in, instead of using pc-super epoxy filler and pc-11 fine filler ?
the kintsugi looks like a one stage fix, glueing and filling, but does it have a hard surface?
in some kintsugi kit they say they use bison epoxy, so i'm back to wondering how is it holding against a knife ?
do you know the part number of dow corning silicon, i find rubber cement silicone
the board you commented - www.instructables.com/answers/best-adhesive-to-repair-ceramics/
thank you
Hello! The 1st filler is for "bulk filling" it is not sandable to our performance requirements and fails the UV light surface continuity test. It is not needed for typical cracks - you go right to PC11 unless you have a missing piece 1/3" or larger. Using only PC-super epoxy might be sufficient for what you wish to accomplish but terribly fails our expectations. Neither material is
suitable for use with food or functionally. Knife will mark any restoration materials (epoxy, fillers, glaze). There aren't any materials out there that will match fired glaze. Also, none of the restoration materials with good performance (bonding strength, sandability, and compatible with subsequent restoration layers such as paint and cold glaze) we know are food safe. Regarding the Dap silicon adhesive, it will not create the right surface for seamless repair that meets our performance expectations. If you smear it around, it would look just like that, smeared around.
The Kintsugi process use is proprietary and we use 5-6 stages, gluing, filling, sanding, gold or gold affect bonding material, gold or gold effect metal powder application and burnishing (burnishing is required with real gold only). The usage issues discussed above apply to Kintsugi as well. See more in the link below in reference to why restored items should not be used functionally or with food - refer to Q and A #11.
Sorry, we do not use Dap silicone or such so we do not know how and where to source it. All we know about the Dap silicon is that we get a lot of projects post DIY repair attempts and at times, the silicon adhesive removal is more costly that the whole restoration it self.
Note that all the above and much more is discussed in our tutorials - see index to all the restoration tutorials below.
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Repairing-restoring-ceramic-porcelain-china-pottery-lessons-tutorials.html
Questions and answers:
lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/ceramic-repair-and-restoration-questions-and-answers.htm
Thank you for asking these good questions.
Your hand is blocking the view
חג שמח גם לך!
Why don't you just put it in milk for two days? 😭😭
yea
I'm getting ready to restore a stone ware "moonshine" jug. I was wondering if anyone knew what paint would match the old brown glaze. 😀🏺
www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/painting-coloring-repaired-ceramic-sculpture-tutorial.htm