In addition to this, cutting with this technique also helps on multistemmed stumps with varying grain patterns. When the stiffer end on the bar is doing the cutting, the kerf will remain straighter. The tips of long bars get pulled into the different grains easier
We had to remove a big pine stump that was ripped up in a storm in the middle of a piece of landscaping with no machinery access possible/allowed. We did, however, have owner's pressure washer at hand to clean the stump and roots to cut it up. Saved us a lot of trouble so only one guy had to do full-time filing.
Great video. Here's what you should do, this is why, this is how. Straight forward, no nonsense, no filler. Well, a bare minimum of nonsense with the opening joke, but still quick and entertaining.
Yes, chain heat and stretch can be a problem, and that’s a good way to mitigate that a bit. It shouldn’t be pinching till the very end of the cut however so long as your cut is fairly straight and level.
@ Thanks! Even though I cut a lot of wood doesn't make me an expert at all. I still fear the saw. I seen experts get cut bad too. Same with garage doors. I have scars galore because I was complacent.
I usually cut down towards the center so there is a bowl when I am done. Then if you have a couple areas on the outside that are too tall, you can just trim them off. Then I fill in the center with dirt which helps it break down faster.
Before I make the cut close to the ground, I use a two gallon garden sprayer to rinse the path of my cut. It takes 15 seconds to pump up decent pressure, and I don’t need a hose or extension cord. The only issue is keeping the sprayer from freezing on very cold days.
Nice Strider! That definitely is they way. I always have ground crew prep stumps with the flex rake, blower and we have an APW extinguisher that we use when no hose available to wash stump as far into the flare as possible. We also pour straight transmission fluid on the bar at intervals as we cut on the bigger stumps.
all through my youth, we'd cut it extra tall, and then come back a year later with a machine to pull the stump. long lever makes the stump pull easier.
Or just back bar it and all the dirt that's on the outside edge gets thrown out away from the stump and chainsaw and you don't have to worry about it. Plus back barring makes it where you can still use your felling spikes/dogs to grip and pivot on, and makes it where you're not moving around the stump (staying stationary).
That can be good, but it’s much more effort-full to push against the action of the cutting teeth the whole time, and I’ve found that harder to make a consistent cut on a big stump where the bar doesn’t go all the way through.
Great tutorial and going to have to have think about doing that move with the power head as opposed to just digging in and watching the sawdust pour out as its kills the chain, without the chips!
@@kenbrown2808 it didn't sound like he liked sharpening at the end of the day so I just let him know how i deal with it. Do you use a saw and sharpen your chains?
@@StoptheLie what he didn't like is sharpening more than necessary. I sharpen when I fill the tank. and I also don't like doing things that make me sharpen more than necessary.
This is kind of off-topic from your video, but is there anyway to stand back and look at a tree before you fall and gauge pretty close to where the crown of the tree is gonna hit at say so that you don’t hit powerlines or a house or something when you think the tree is actually shorter than what it truly is
A laser range finder can be useful but it is also easy to be OFF with the measurements. There are also tricks involving the geometry of an isosceles triangle which can use a tool like a carpenter’s square that eyeball a close measurement. All these methods take practice and get more difficult with changes in grade.
@Stridertrees indeed it is a bunch of work and absolutely not necessary for each and every one that would be absurd, if I see dirt I axe it. No questions axed 😆
Never thought about this, but I do hit / scrape outer cambium with an axe, providing a cleaner edge.
In addition to this, cutting with this technique also helps on multistemmed stumps with varying grain patterns. When the stiffer end on the bar is doing the cutting, the kerf will remain straighter. The tips of long bars get pulled into the different grains easier
Good point, I hadn’t thought of that!
I actually like this point more than the topic of the video. 😆 Nothing against you @stridertrees
I’ve never noticed any difference, so I expect the effect is minor, at least compared to having a worn out bar or dull chain.
Can also run a blower around the base to remove the piled up dirt and rocks away from the stump works well in a desert environment anyway
I use that technique all the time it works well
Absolutely, anything you can do to CLEAN the bark will help. We just don’t always have time for more than a quick solution.
We had to remove a big pine stump that was ripped up in a storm in the middle of a piece of landscaping with no machinery access possible/allowed. We did, however, have owner's pressure washer at hand to clean the stump and roots to cut it up. Saved us a lot of trouble so only one guy had to do full-time filing.
And wire brush ,or wire wheel on drill or tool
@@Stridertreeslet me ask you how's that 592 holding up any issue s????
Option 1 is definitely my go to 😆
Great video. Here's what you should do, this is why, this is how. Straight forward, no nonsense, no filler.
Well, a bare minimum of nonsense with the opening joke, but still quick and entertaining.
Great tip. We also use the blower first on the stump to get rid of excess dirt that might be in the bark. Works well, try it with your tip.
Absolutely, anything you can do to CLEAN the bark will help! And a blower is easy and quick
Cut a decent number of trees. Never considered this approach but this is some solid advice right here. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful!
If you cut with the top of bar it will constantly push chips out. Keep saw dogged in tight and it works very well
Logic based solution. I would have liked to see you do one, just to see it done. Thanks for your content, golden!
I learned it this way from some old school guys! But hey, everyone has their own style!
Simple, efficient, obvious! Never thought about it this way. Great advice
We cut in two bar widths and use our felling wedges to hold it up too.
Less heat generated so the chain doesn't come loose ,as fast.
Yes, chain heat and stretch can be a problem, and that’s a good way to mitigate that a bit. It shouldn’t be pinching till the very end of the cut however so long as your cut is fairly straight and level.
@ Thanks! Even though I cut a lot of wood doesn't make me an expert at all.
I still fear the saw. I seen experts get cut bad too.
Same with garage doors. I have scars galore because I was complacent.
I usually cut down towards the center so there is a bowl when I am done. Then if you have a couple areas on the outside that are too tall, you can just trim them off. Then I fill in the center with dirt which helps it break down faster.
I never noticed much of a difference... but after I got the big stumps grinder,I just cut em high and grind the rest
Before I make the cut close to the ground, I use a two gallon garden sprayer to rinse the path of my cut.
It takes 15 seconds to pump up decent pressure, and I don’t need a hose or extension cord.
The only issue is keeping the sprayer from freezing on very cold days.
Oh I like that 👍🏼
Xlogger here. Right on brother. Subscribed.
Appreciate that! Hope you like the videos!
Nice Strider! That definitely is they way. I always have ground crew prep stumps with the flex rake, blower and we have an APW extinguisher that we use when no hose available to wash stump as far into the flare as possible. We also pour straight transmission fluid on the bar at intervals as we cut on the bigger stumps.
Super! I have to cut a lot of stumps down to string-trimmer, dirt level, and this concept is very useful.
This is my favorite tree channel
all through my youth, we'd cut it extra tall, and then come back a year later with a machine to pull the stump. long lever makes the stump pull easier.
Especially if you leave chest high stumps, nobody runs over them and you have plenty of leverage.
Gold right there ... thanks for sharing it with us.
You bet, happy to help!
Cut high stumps!😅😅🤣😂😂😅😅😅🥹🥹😅😅😅😂😂🤣🤣😂😂😅😅🥹🥹🥹😅😅😂😂😂CLASSIC!
It makes a lot of sense. Can't wait to try it.
That's cool man I can see the logic to that
Thanks!
Lol I wanted to hate but this is actually a beautiful point thanks for sharing
You bet! I’m glad you liked it.
if available use a hose and wash dirt off stump first then you can blow dry with blower if you wish also.
Heck yeah, science!
Or just back bar it and all the dirt that's on the outside edge gets thrown out away from the stump and chainsaw and you don't have to worry about it. Plus back barring makes it where you can still use your felling spikes/dogs to grip and pivot on, and makes it where you're not moving around the stump (staying stationary).
That can be good, but it’s much more effort-full to push against the action of the cutting teeth the whole time, and I’ve found that harder to make a consistent cut on a big stump where the bar doesn’t go all the way through.
Great tutorial and going to have to have think about doing that move with the power head as opposed to just digging in and watching the sawdust pour out as its kills the chain, without the chips!
that was hilarious tell them NO😂
I usually just tell them I can only cut it so high or it will ruin the chain and cost them an extra 100$
Can you cut it flush?
Me with a full wrap:
That's as low as it goes 😇
💡 moment there
Having extra chains with you and replacing the chain instead of sharpening on the job at the end of the day saves time.
until the next day. sharpen in the morning vs. sharpen at night.
I like using a vise when sharpening and always carry extra chains for different saws. Bad weather days are sharpening workouts.
@@StoptheLie and it sounds like this guy prefers to maintain his tools at the end of his workday instead of the beginning.
@@kenbrown2808 it didn't sound like he liked sharpening at the end of the day so I just let him know how i deal with it. Do you use a saw and sharpen your chains?
@@StoptheLie what he didn't like is sharpening more than necessary. I sharpen when I fill the tank. and I also don't like doing things that make me sharpen more than necessary.
Just bring along a shovel and a broom. Besides, you touch up your chain at every fill-up, right? ;)
In the next video you show us how you do it.
No demo ??
This is kind of off-topic from your video, but is there anyway to stand back and look at a tree before you fall and gauge pretty close to where the crown of the tree is gonna hit at say so that you don’t hit powerlines or a house or something when you think the tree is actually shorter than what it truly is
A laser range finder can be useful but it is also easy to be OFF with the measurements. There are also tricks involving the geometry of an isosceles triangle which can use a tool like a carpenter’s square that eyeball a close measurement. All these methods take practice and get more difficult with changes in grade.
I'll do it with your saw.
lol 😆 says every groundsman everywhere
Great info. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
typical ground here is not level, have to cut a trench around base for this technique
I just clean around it.
that opener was hard to watch
Me liky
I just turn my bar over so the chain goes the other way. 😉
Just go round it with an axe and quit dicking around esp if you have a bunch of trees to cut
Sometimes even that is more time and energy than it’s worth spending. I don’t bother with that usually unless it’s a really nasty stump.
@Stridertrees indeed it is a bunch of work and absolutely not necessary for each and every one that would be absurd, if I see dirt I axe it. No questions axed 😆
i just take a hatchet and clean off the outside, am i wrong?
No that’s great for small stumps if you have the time and willing to spend the effort, but it’s not usually necessary