Very cool sword, ambitious project compared to your Bowie's and Viking knives. Takes courage to try something like that, I think your definitely being more Viking.
@@PhilBaumhardt Thanks for the info, looks great, I am looking for some good red brown stains for the plain wooden handle on the sword that I have forged out. I have some wipe on poly that I may use for the varnish.
i have a baby torch like that to that bottled oxy gets expensive fast, and also mapp gas burns hot but its super dirty nasty try it with propane instead it was pretty great for the pommel but for heat treat i would just use a garden variety blow torch its slower but much more forgiving than mapp atleast in my experience though swords ill admit do not fall within that group i mostly make axes sorry for rambling
also I'm almost ready to start on an iron wood or maybe osage bow small enough to shoot from horseback plains indian style would love any tips or ideas anyone has and totaly forgot in my original post that blade is fantastic!!! keep up the good work Baumhardt hi effing five
Looks great, but that temper is not going to hold. Some spots are too soft while others aren't soft enough. There's no way that's going to hold up, definitely requench and temper before handoff to customer.
wouldn't you be better to just sit the sword on a piece of wood on the forge and as soon as it starts to go a nice golden brown then quench it? , because you ruined it with that torch man
Hey man, thanks for watching the video and commenting. It's a nice idea, but that's not how heat treating works. The quench and the temper are two separate processes. I did experiment with other steel using the forge to temper, and at least with what I have to work with it's even more uncontrollable and certainly would have made the blade too soft. What I did in the video didn't turn out ideally, but it did not ruin it.
@@PhilBaumhardt ah I think you miss understood what I said.. I'm well aware there are 2 stages heat treatment and then tempering... What I was saying is that by placing a piece of wood on top of your forge then laying your ( hardened ) blade on the wood it is indirect heat defusing the intensity of the forge and you can watch the blade slowly turn a golden straw then you sink the blade back into the oil to stop the blade from further tempering into purple and blue .unless you didn't know that you can also quench a blade whilst tempering to stop it from tempering further
Gotcha, I did misunderstand, thanks. I'll have to experiment with that for next time, for sure. My worry with the wood is that it would ignite and make the color difficult to see with the fire and soot.
@@PhilBaumhardt To piggyback on that comment, what some people do is they use some sort of steel square tubing and put the blade in there so there’s less scale etc. I believe that’s more of a propane torch trick, and certainly would be difficult with a forge at ground level where you couldn’t see it at all from the top. But maybe setting it on top of a piece of mild steel could improve the process. Great build and a fun watch!!
Another fantastic build, sir! I can’t remember the last time you made a polished blade, but this one is awesome! Keep on forgin’, brother!
Великолепная работа! Аплодирую стоя!
Thank you!
Nice dude, that’s a nice looking sword
Very well dome. Love the unique guard...
Well it turned out much better than I thought it was going to. I'm off to salvage some secondhand leaf springs.
really top looking sword there Phil, came out really nice.
Thanks dude!
congrats, another beautiful build.
Looks great! I think you did a awesome job!
Nice, next forged in fire!
Haha that'll be the day
fine craftsmanship
Inspiring video, thank you for sharing!
If the "poor craftsman blames their tools" than the perfect craftsman achieves their goals with imperfect tools
Very cool sword, ambitious project compared to your Bowie's and Viking knives. Takes courage to try something like that, I think your definitely being more Viking.
Thanks Dave, that is some high praise! Perhaps foolhardy is how I would describe it though lol
@@PhilBaumhardt lol!
I’d love to be at a point where I need an anti tank rocket container to be able to quench
Its good if have not seen others build...
Looking sharp man 👍🏻
why is the blade edge so wobbly and the tip is curved forward??
Very nice!
Phil, if I may ask, what kind of stain did you use on the wooden grip handle ?
It was a Minwax stain, 211 Provencial I think. I put linseed oil on it afterwards.
@@PhilBaumhardt Thanks for the info, looks great, I am looking for some good red brown stains for the plain wooden handle on the sword that I have forged out. I have some wipe on poly that I may use for the varnish.
goooood work,
my friend, bad temperature.. sword blade its so weak
Longsword 10👍👏👏👏👏👏
i have a baby torch like that to that bottled oxy gets expensive fast, and also mapp gas burns hot but its super dirty nasty try it with propane instead it was pretty great for the pommel but for heat treat i would just use a garden variety blow torch its slower but much more forgiving than mapp atleast in my experience though swords ill admit do not fall within that group i mostly make axes sorry for rambling
also I'm almost ready to start on an iron wood or maybe osage bow small enough to shoot from horseback plains indian style would love any tips or ideas anyone has and totaly forgot in my original post that blade is fantastic!!! keep up the good work Baumhardt hi effing five
Next time making ashuma sarutobi knife
Looks great, but that temper is not going to hold. Some spots are too soft while others aren't soft enough. There's no way that's going to hold up, definitely requench and temper before handoff to customer.
god damn ...
Dep
wouldn't you be better to just sit the sword on a piece of wood on the forge and as soon as it starts to go a nice golden brown then quench it? , because you ruined it with that torch man
Hey man, thanks for watching the video and commenting. It's a nice idea, but that's not how heat treating works. The quench and the temper are two separate processes. I did experiment with other steel using the forge to temper, and at least with what I have to work with it's even more uncontrollable and certainly would have made the blade too soft. What I did in the video didn't turn out ideally, but it did not ruin it.
@@PhilBaumhardt ah I think you miss understood what I said.. I'm well aware there are 2 stages heat treatment and then tempering... What I was saying is that by placing a piece of wood on top of your forge then laying your ( hardened ) blade on the wood it is indirect heat defusing the intensity of the forge and you can watch the blade slowly turn a golden straw then you sink the blade back into the oil to stop the blade from further tempering into purple and blue .unless you didn't know that you can also quench a blade whilst tempering to stop it from tempering further
Gotcha, I did misunderstand, thanks. I'll have to experiment with that for next time, for sure. My worry with the wood is that it would ignite and make the color difficult to see with the fire and soot.
@@PhilBaumhardt To piggyback on that comment, what some people do is they use some sort of steel square tubing and put the blade in there so there’s less scale etc. I believe that’s more of a propane torch trick, and certainly would be difficult with a forge at ground level where you couldn’t see it at all from the top. But maybe setting it on top of a piece of mild steel could improve the process.
Great build and a fun watch!!