I specialize in small appliance refrigeration. I really like watching your videos. I love how meticulous you are. I technician the same way. A few tips. Yellow jacket makes a special manifold for R-290a with awesome colored 2mmID hoses (41868). Use a lab grade microgram scale for your R-290a. I also use an Accutools S10767 right on the refrigerant canister so I can turn it off right on the scale. I put another two S10767 on my core tools so I don't lose anything. TruBlu evacuation, attach manifold to core tool side ports, close pump, charge into the high side, start the compressor, home stretch into the low side leaving room for what's left in the hose leading to the refrigerant canister. Shut the can off on the scale. Let the last 0.04oz out of the refrigerant line. Then insert the high side shrader core and clear my hoses. I can consistently meet the exact charge weight every time. You've taught me so much, I hope this helps.
Gotta hand it to you. I’ve grown to loath small systems like these. Super critical charges, cap tubes, tight spaces, all the abuse they take... I work on the opposite side of the spectrum in system size, so it makes it worse when I get calls out to systems with only a few lbs or less 🤣 I like working on the huge systems, but I have massive respect for anyone who is skilled with any system, giant or tiny. Sounds like you know wha you’re doing, my friend 🤙 Kudos
The exact charge is not so much of a big deal in systems with liquid receivers. In small cap-tube units, it gets a little hairy. But propane is an excellent refrigerant. I used to use it in lumber dry kiln dehumidifiers in place of R22. Gotta change the oil, though...
Would a piercing valve be a better choice for adding a temporary service port on these small appliances instead of brazing on a whole new port and chopping it off every time? 😆
R290 is an excellent refrigerant. It's nice to see that it is being accepted again in the USA. I used to run 290 in systems I built using R22 compressors about 30 years ago. But I was building dehumidifiers for lumber dry kilns in northern California in the early 1990s. Worked with R12, too before it was banned. R290 is almost a direct drop-in replacement for R22. It's good to see that flammable refrigerants are making a comeback. On larger systems, I was forced to use R22, due to fire regulations. But that was back in the 1990s... when R290 was still illegal in many areas.
It was very interesting because that r290(propane) system had two leaks. First in the evap coil then on that coiled discharge line in the drain pan. I watch your videos and they are awesome. I work on big refrigeration systems using r404a, but then I also work on household refrigerators which use isobutane(r600a) and most of them have leaks where cap tube enters the evap coil. Your sporlan's flare dryers and sight glasses are awesome, also sporlan's solenoid magnets and expansion valves are awesome too.
Hey Chris. Saw you on the 60 the other morning with my coworker! That was me who said what’s up in the stake bed. We were on our way out to build a little reach in cooler. Keep it up with the videos bro! You’ve taught me a lot!!
I saw something interesting about 8:33+. One on the Wago connector's levers was raised slightly. I saw another video recently that as standard practice, wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent a problem if a lever gets bumped and raised. Wago's are good connectors, but possibly they need to have a bit more "click" when closing. Just a thought...
You are kind. I really like what you are doing. I understand that you started the channel as a way to train employees, but it is doing so much more. Thank you!
Dude a small trick for the condenser drain Heater i learn on the imbera fridge workshop, they put Heat shrink on the coper line, and that help you a lot with the corrosion by water or any fluid in it also still transfer the heat to the water, isn't like proof of leaking but at least make it last more without leaks
Dude, this is why I got the Inficon D-Tek Stratus... I’ve had the Fieldpiece and the TIF, which I know some people swear by, and that’s cool for them. But, I’ve had soooo many headaches with feeling ABSOLUTELY sure there’s a leak where it goes off, and then it disappears, reappears, kinda beeps... You throw some bubbles on it, and nothin’. Once I bucked up and paid for the Stratus, I haven’t once regretted it. I’ve found some of the smallest leaks just doing CARB audits on racks, and was actually recently called out to follow up on a milling machine chiller because the initial tech’s leak detector was messin’ him up (had to go all the way to Santa Clarita from Running Springs for that one 🤦🏼♂️), but I totally understood his plight, and frankly, that’s the only time I wish I didn’t have such a legit leak detector. Found the leak within 5 minutes of looking. My supervisor was like, “You got the Stratus, right?” Which was ultimately why I got sent to that one... haha... Anyway, I thought I remember one of your videos where you had one. Maybe I’m trippin’. In any case, Inficon Stratus is the best leak detector I’ve ever used. Awesome vid, as usual 🤙
You're really good at explaining things to new techs and costumers and that's not easy to do and definitely I need to work on that... thanks for all your videos they help a lot
It may have been hard to see on site but the second service port you could actually see it leaking. Much like the ripples you see over a candle the same thing happens with leaking refridgerants or the like - that gas has a different density which causes the refraction of the light and you see it as that "wiggling" of the air. I was able to spot it on the second one because the camera angle was just right.
For the sensor replacement splicing... I would suggest you get phone splice connectors, and get the wet environment ones that are gel filled, as they are designed to splice low voltage thin wires and be in hostile environments without much monitoring.
Instead of using butt connectors, you can use the jelly bean connectors like they use with telephone wires. They're designed for small gauge wires and are waterproof. 👍
Absolutely,I am an Hvac mechanic for a very large communication company,and when in doubt we use the 3m scotchlok connectors,UR,S-UR,reds orand and the grays
A recommendation (of course what do I know about refrigeration because I don't) I would make because you are dealing with high humid / water areas, you could use the butt splices that are impregned with dielectric grease which further seals the connection from water/moisture. The shrink tube is a great method though.
Marine connectors work good for sensors. They're like a butt connector that you put the wires in and they have solder in them. You use a lighter and it melts the solder and the outside of the connector is heat shrink so you get a good connection.
Nice work! I hate the crimp tool, just slap a pierce valve on it pull a vac after the dump and get it to boil off and never had an issue, i like to add way more discharge loop to it and help these little cu's out, filling the pan with water and pressure check is how i find these, true are the good ones to work on, your doing the trade a favor posting these, thank you sir!
My God. finally an HVACR video. You could make a retro video of what tools you started with and make a comparison to the new stock. Piz Out Chris! from Chile.
Love your videos. I used to be a maintenance HVAC supervisor for a retirement village. We did splits and package units as well as geothermal and fan coil systems as well as the boiler and chiller. Do you ever do videos about those ??
15:50 even as you say "we'll do a test to say if it is sealed", the gas escaping is clear as day. Might not have been visible from your perspective, but your camera sure caught that.
I'm surprised I don't see you use a thermal imaging unit more often to view the temp of multiple things simultaneously like evaporators for even cooling across them and so forth. I think they are very underrated when things are going wrong and i'm scratching my head trying to figure it out lol.
This expansion cable are for temperature recorder if the customer wants to record the temperature over the internet you have to use RS232 to RS485 with lae recorder
Thing nice thing about True is that they have great tech support. Those guys will pretty much diagnose it for you over the phone if you're ever unsure.
It makes you wonder what could be in that condensate water that it would corrode copper tubing like that. It kind of looks like the underside of salt belt cars here in Upstate NY. I think that maybe when these units are new that you could spray a bit of Fluid Film on that copper coil so it may never spring a leak. Since it works really well even on rust buckets it it would be wonderful in the environment at bottom of a fridge or freezer.
That serial port I would probably not be be too concerned those serial chips are generally have pretty good protections, often can handle kv of -or + surge voltage.
Hey Chris hope all is well brother Wondering where did you get the support to gadget to hold the R290 can? I’m having to sit sideways & hold the hose so it doesn’t move with something heavy lol let me know if you have a link, thanks 🙏
Hello Cris my name is Oscar Pineda from Honduras I really like the videos I thank you for the effort you make I would like a video of the electrical circuits of a culler on how to install it grace
FYI... I think there are butt connectors that you can also insert solder into, or just heat them up and they have solder already in them. Maybe some shrink wrap afterward too.
FYI - Instead of bending these wires over to increase the bulk of the wire a best pratice would be to tin those wires then put the butt connectors on. This will give you a much more reliable mechanical and electrical connection not to mention. I am not an HVAC person just an engineer. Ricky from IBM, Ret
Love the videos bud. I know they say r290 when working properly should drop a degree a minute. I love how clean you did the wiring! I started using the vice-grip access valves. I also switched to the mastercool r290 - r600 scale. It’s a great scale. Have you ever looked at subcooling when it comes to cap tubes? Keep up the good work!Awesome videos
We had a similar sounding fan in a True beverage display cooler at my work. As it turns out, the fan cover had been shoved up into the fan blade and it was chewing up the blades. Interestingly, it seems like these coolers are known for having their compressors fail if left unpowered for a period of time. I don’t know how many beverage coolers we’ve had dump all of their refrigerant out onto the floor. Quite the mess.
Hey Chris looks like you went all out on that little reach in. Kinda of like fishing for a minnow with a harpoon🙂. Lol. Guess if the customer is gonna pay, what the hell. Great vid as always.
The original condensate heater did look pretty bad so it wasn't surprising to see that it did leak. Just the way it did look told me that it was a question of time before it was due anyway. Then I might question if the condensate collection was necessary there or if there was a floor drain close where it could go instead.
Have you ever used a steamer for clearing evaps? I do mostly residential and love mine. probably wouldn't work super well for walk ins, but for smaller reach ins, they make a lot less mess than a hose
How would you bill this job mate? 1st visit..callout + labour (1hr) 2nd visit. Travel time + labour + parts 3rd visit. Travel time + labour + parts It's the return on 2&3 I'm having problems asking for! I know the above happens as its happened with myself!
Where did you install the drier? I have seen you use Flare fitting driers before and I have used them on Residential. Could you have rigged something like that up to give you another place to bleed the nitrogen away? I realize your space is limited in a fridge or freezer.
Is true paying for the components to be replaced because they failed Due to manufacturer defect Just Like any appliance Made today they make it to fail
Hey Chris.😁 I have a question about R-290. I worked for a refrigeration company right out of trade school back in '04. They dealt with 409-A, 134-A, 22. Never came across R-290. I was told in school that campers and rv's use propane, is that the same refrigerant? If not, what was it? Maybe this is a question for the live stream. Again, I have next to no knowledge of propane other than it exists (before watching your videos anyway). The work we did seems very similar to what you do. Love what you do Bud!!
I have a propane fridge that uses some sort of ammonia solution as a refrigerant. Instead of a pump, the fridge burns propane to create a heat differential that moves the ammonia solution around in the pipes. It can also be plugged into a 120v outlet to run a heating element instead of burning propane. I understand that R290 is oderless, pure propane. It is NOT burnt, and is pumped around a refrigeration system like any other refrigerant.
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
So soft copper with the pinch off tool works a lot better. You can soften the copper by heating it red hot for a few seconds, at that point you can either cool it down with some water or just let it cool down naturally. The important part is just getting it red hot. Of course that's NOT something you wanna do with a charged 290 system so I'm not sure when this tip will ever be useful...
Kudos on your perseverance in tracking down those leaks! I've used a lot of True products over the years, I find them to be quite robust - especially in the abusive food service environment. I can't tell you how many times I get the "Andy, water is coming up through the floor under the Coke cooler again" complaint, where I have to educate my coworkers that there's this thing called a condensate pan, and when it's full and an employee jostles the cooler, the water spills over the side of the pan (and, during the humid summertime, the pan overflows daily anyway - there's nothing we can do about it but keep tabs on it and mop as needed). The water is NOT coming up through the floors! We have three separate spots where I hear the "water comes up through the floor, meaning the foundation is cracked" complaints, and I have to keep telling them, "LOOK UP!" The cause is always condensation on the A/C outlets or the leaking roof every time, and one might think that over 8 years of complaints about the roof leaking the property manager would do SOMETHING, but no, they won't even get up on the roof to mow the lawn. Yes, you read that right - we have a small garden of weeds growing on the roof. Someday I want to get up there to take a look at one of our exhaust hoods that isn't working, so I can tell Idiot With Toolbox to fix it. I don't know which unit(s) in the building, if any, have a roof hatch - if we had one, my nosy butt would have already scaled the ladder and poked around! Yesterday, when closing, one of the crew shut off the only working exhaust fan, and the manager (she's only been with us for 2 months) had no idea why the oven refused to turn on. I discovered by accident a week ago that the oven was disabled when the hood fan was off - something I picked up in one of Chris' previous videos, and luckily was able to pass on this bit of knowledge. She was a bit disappointed to find the solution was simple, meaning the oven will still not be fixed. I had to bake my croissants an extra 25 minutes today because the oven preferred to stay 100° or more below its setpoint. It was 125° low the other day, had to power-cycle it to make it work again. This is another problem that has existed since I last worked at this store 8 years ago. We bring in $200K of profit annually, can we maybe get the renovations we've been promised for over a decade? Or even just FIX OR REPLACE faulty equipment? Nope, we don't ABUSE the equipment, so therefore we must keep the dilapidated stuff we've been limping along with while the stores that destroy their equipment get NEW replacements. In my opinion, the stores that ruin brand new equipment should be forced to use the old stuff until they can prove they're willing to be a little more careful, and they should get the hand-me-downs from stores that take care of their equipment and deserve the latest and greatest... This is why I could never be in an Upper Management position, because I'd be treating staff that acted like irresponsible children in a manner fitting to their attitude.
Great video. Do digital controls take the place of 3 switch klixon ? Or will they have both digital control with a dtfd in evaporator section wired back to digital control ?
Love to see a follow up video regarding how much True shorts you on the warranty claim. And, even more so, what your policy is regarding the difference. Do you charge the customer the difference?
True has a 3 year parts and labor warranty and a 5 year compressor warranty. If the unit is less than 5 years old but older than 3, and the compressor runs into a vacuum due to a Freon leak , True will warranty the whole condenser skid, which is pretty solid
I specialize in small appliance refrigeration. I really like watching your videos. I love how meticulous you are. I technician the same way. A few tips. Yellow jacket makes a special manifold for R-290a with awesome colored 2mmID hoses (41868). Use a lab grade microgram scale for your R-290a. I also use an Accutools S10767 right on the refrigerant canister so I can turn it off right on the scale. I put another two S10767 on my core tools so I don't lose anything. TruBlu evacuation, attach manifold to core tool side ports, close pump, charge into the high side, start the compressor, home stretch into the low side leaving room for what's left in the hose leading to the refrigerant canister. Shut the can off on the scale. Let the last 0.04oz out of the refrigerant line. Then insert the high side shrader core and clear my hoses. I can consistently meet the exact charge weight every time. You've taught me so much, I hope this helps.
I have not work on R-290a system yet, but nice tips. Thanks
Gotta hand it to you. I’ve grown to loath small systems like these. Super critical charges, cap tubes, tight spaces, all the abuse they take... I work on the opposite side of the spectrum in system size, so it makes it worse when I get calls out to systems with only a few lbs or less 🤣 I like working on the huge systems, but I have massive respect for anyone who is skilled with any system, giant or tiny. Sounds like you know wha you’re doing, my friend 🤙 Kudos
The exact charge is not so much of a big deal in systems with liquid receivers. In small cap-tube units, it gets a little hairy. But propane is an excellent refrigerant. I used to use it in lumber dry kiln dehumidifiers in place of R22. Gotta change the oil, though...
Would a piercing valve be a better choice for adding a temporary service port on these small appliances instead of brazing on a whole new port and chopping it off every time? 😆
R290 is an excellent refrigerant. It's nice to see that it is being accepted again in the USA. I used to run 290 in systems I built using R22 compressors about 30 years ago. But I was building dehumidifiers for lumber dry kilns in northern California in the early 1990s. Worked with R12, too before it was banned. R290 is almost a direct drop-in replacement for R22. It's good to see that flammable refrigerants are making a comeback. On larger systems, I was forced to use R22, due to fire regulations. But that was back in the 1990s... when R290 was still illegal in many areas.
I hope that was a warranty repair. Evaporator, control, and three visits have to be close to the cost of a new unit.
It was very interesting because that r290(propane) system had two leaks. First in the evap coil then on that coiled discharge line in the drain pan. I watch your videos and they are awesome. I work on big refrigeration systems using r404a, but then I also work on household refrigerators which use isobutane(r600a) and most of them have leaks where cap tube enters the evap coil. Your sporlan's flare dryers and sight glasses are awesome, also sporlan's solenoid magnets and expansion valves are awesome too.
Smiled when you re-did the service ports and removed the crimps. Hope your customers appreciate the attention to detail you and your crews display!
Hey Chris. Saw you on the 60 the other morning with my coworker! That was me who said what’s up in the stake bed. We were on our way out to build a little reach in cooler. Keep it up with the videos bro! You’ve taught me a lot!!
Right on bud!!!
@Stolen Election very common armenian last name dude, I do not!
I am not in the industry, but I enjoy watching...I have learned so much...even noticing the WAGO connectors in this unit...keep being awesome.
An expensive repair as you have nearly changed a good half of the fridge freezer sys
tem 😂
I saw something interesting about 8:33+. One on the Wago connector's levers was raised slightly. I saw another video recently that as standard practice, wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent a problem if a lever gets bumped and raised. Wago's are good connectors, but possibly they need to have a bit more "click" when closing. Just a thought...
You are kind. I really like what you are doing. I understand that you started the channel as a way to train employees, but it is doing so much more. Thank you!
Dude a small trick for the condenser drain Heater i learn on the imbera fridge workshop, they put Heat shrink on the coper line, and that help you a lot with the corrosion by water or any fluid in it also still transfer the heat to the water, isn't like proof of leaking but at least make it last more without leaks
You made a bundle on the reachin new evap new heater no call back nice
Dude, this is why I got the Inficon D-Tek Stratus... I’ve had the Fieldpiece and the TIF, which I know some people swear by, and that’s cool for them. But, I’ve had soooo many headaches with feeling ABSOLUTELY sure there’s a leak where it goes off, and then it disappears, reappears, kinda beeps... You throw some bubbles on it, and nothin’. Once I bucked up and paid for the Stratus, I haven’t once regretted it. I’ve found some of the smallest leaks just doing CARB audits on racks, and was actually recently called out to follow up on a milling machine chiller because the initial tech’s leak detector was messin’ him up (had to go all the way to Santa Clarita from Running Springs for that one 🤦🏼♂️), but I totally understood his plight, and frankly, that’s the only time I wish I didn’t have such a legit leak detector. Found the leak within 5 minutes of looking. My supervisor was like, “You got the Stratus, right?” Which was ultimately why I got sent to that one... haha... Anyway, I thought I remember one of your videos where you had one. Maybe I’m trippin’. In any case, Inficon Stratus is the best leak detector I’ve ever used. Awesome vid, as usual 🤙
You're really good at explaining things to new techs and costumers and that's not easy to do and definitely I need to work on that... thanks for all your videos they help a lot
It may have been hard to see on site but the second service port you could actually see it leaking. Much like the ripples you see over a candle the same thing happens with leaking refridgerants or the like - that gas has a different density which causes the refraction of the light and you see it as that "wiggling" of the air. I was able to spot it on the second one because the camera angle was just right.
For the sensor replacement splicing... I would suggest you get phone splice connectors, and get the wet environment ones that are gel filled, as they are designed to splice low voltage thin wires and be in hostile environments without much monitoring.
Yes ,the ur and s.u.r connectors,also the gray ones for 22-26awg,pretty much good for submersion .
seriously love your videos, after a long hard day of service work nothing beats this. no lie.
Communication is key. I'm enjoying these vids.
You are so knowledgeable ! And explain things so well.
Instead of using butt connectors, you can use the jelly bean connectors like they use with telephone wires.
They're designed for small gauge wires and are waterproof. 👍
Absolutely,I am an Hvac mechanic for a very large communication company,and when in doubt we use the 3m scotchlok connectors,UR,S-UR,reds orand and the grays
I'm gonna order some of those !! Thanks guys
@m9 ovich butt connectors are not rated for solid conductors, they are ONLY rated for stranded conductors.
No stay with solder and shrink tube
A recommendation (of course what do I know about refrigeration because I don't) I would make because you are dealing with high humid / water areas, you could use the butt splices that are impregned with dielectric grease which further seals the connection from water/moisture. The shrink tube is a great method though.
Marine connectors work good for sensors. They're like a butt connector that you put the wires in and they have solder in them. You use a lighter and it melts the solder and the outside of the connector is heat shrink so you get a good connection.
5:25 nice that there are still good company's that try to make everything as easy as possible.
Well done my friend!.....that was my first time seeing pinch-off tools....
Nice work! I hate the crimp tool, just slap a pierce valve on it pull a vac after the dump and get it to boil off and never had an issue, i like to add way more discharge loop to it and help these little cu's out, filling the pan with water and pressure check is how i find these, true are the good ones to work on, your doing the trade a favor posting these, thank you sir!
That screw from the door reminded me of that scene from The Breakfast Club 😂
I always learn from your videos
Love the videos, Chris! I watch all of your videos and strongly encourage all my younger techs to do the same, great work!
My God. finally an HVACR video. You could make a retro video of what tools you started with and make a comparison to the new stock. Piz Out Chris! from Chile.
Some of the best advice for any industry. CYA!!!
professional explanation all the way thru. Keep up the great work. A+++
Could have sworn I saw some bubbles when leak checking condensate coil WHILE IT WAS IN WATER. Go back and have a look see.
Thanks for a another great video! With the extra bonus of brazing montage music!
Brazing music is great!😁
thanks for everything you do! I'm learning new tricks from your videos.
Great video Chris, thank you so much
Love your videos. I used to be a maintenance HVAC supervisor for a retirement village. We did splits and package units as well as geothermal and fan coil systems as well as the boiler and chiller. Do you ever do videos about those ??
Great video. i enjoyed it while drinking a beer on a Friday night, and learned about the hot gas condensate heater, thanks for your videos!
15:50 even as you say "we'll do a test to say if it is sealed", the gas escaping is clear as day. Might not have been visible from your perspective, but your camera sure caught that.
I'm surprised I don't see you use a thermal imaging unit more often to view the temp of multiple things simultaneously like evaporators for even cooling across them and so forth. I think they are very underrated when things are going wrong and i'm scratching my head trying to figure it out lol.
"Let me just pull everything out of your freezer and rebuild it." LOL. 😆 (Well, I guess the compressor and fan motor got to stay.)
That was awesome. Thanks Chris.
This expansion cable are for temperature recorder if the customer wants to record the temperature over the internet you have to use RS232 to RS485 with lae recorder
Thing nice thing about True is that they have great tech support. Those guys will pretty much diagnose it for you over the phone if you're ever unsure.
my man Chris brazing upside down so that we can see his work. Good to see you are still pumping away. you tube stopped promoting your videos to me.
Great video. Small refrigerators/ freezers are tough.
It makes you wonder what could be in that condensate water that it would corrode copper tubing like that. It kind of looks like the underside of salt belt cars here in Upstate NY. I think that maybe when these units are new that you could spray a bit of Fluid Film on that copper coil so it may never spring a leak. Since it works really well even on rust buckets it it would be wonderful in the environment at bottom of a fridge or freezer.
That condensation evaporator loop is pretty clever.
True had me affix a 1" piece of PVC to the back of the box and drill a hole in the box and run the wiring in the pipe... It worked...
Use dolphin connectors for the small wire. I use those on all CPC and Danfoss sensors. Just a thought. Instead of butt-connectors
Love these videos, this is the equivalent I work on all this stuff.
Great video Chris !
Thxs for the great video. Learning all I can for r290.
That serial port I would probably not be be too concerned those serial chips are generally have pretty good protections, often can handle kv of -or + surge voltage.
Hey Chris hope all is well brother
Wondering where did you get the support to gadget to hold the R290 can? I’m having to sit sideways & hold the hose so it doesn’t move with something heavy lol let me know if you have a link, thanks 🙏
like you had mention before,pan must be dry or your pressures will be very low and it will cool slow.
great info
Hello Cris my name is Oscar Pineda from Honduras I really like the videos I thank you for the effort you make I would like a video of the electrical circuits of a culler on how to install it grace
Try using the self sealing marine connectors for wires in these settings.
I use rectoseal pro fit quick connect refrigerant line connected in seconds I pressurized system to 400 PSI no leak through profit connection
FYI... I think there are butt connectors that you can also insert solder into, or just heat them up and they have solder already in them. Maybe some shrink wrap afterward too.
Chris, look into UY crimp connectors, that's all we use to splice in sensors, waterproof and cheap
Excellent Trouble Shooting and repairs, 1/22 /2023yr
5:09 How can it be a retrofit kit when it is the exact controller and module? wouldn't that just be replacement parts?
Maybe a tech already installed a retro kit into the unit? I did catch what he said too
Chris the restaurant work is the toughest
Thanks for another great video Chris. 👍
FYI - Instead of bending these wires over to increase the bulk of the wire a best pratice would be to tin those wires then put the butt connectors on. This will give you a much more reliable mechanical and electrical connection not to mention. I am not an HVAC person just an engineer.
Ricky from IBM, Ret
Love the videos bud. I know they say r290 when working properly should drop a degree a minute. I love how clean you did the wiring! I started using the vice-grip access valves. I also switched to the mastercool r290 - r600 scale. It’s a great scale.
Have you ever looked at subcooling when it comes to cap tubes? Keep up the good work!Awesome videos
I think Wago makes gel filled boxes you can close around their connectors now.
Good job Chris.
Hi, Your pinch off tool. Is an adjustable spanner (wrench in the USA)
30:55 - Your Fieldpiece app is screaming 2.00. Where are you seeing 2.08?!
We had a similar sounding fan in a True beverage display cooler at my work. As it turns out, the fan cover had been shoved up into the fan blade and it was chewing up the blades. Interestingly, it seems like these coolers are known for having their compressors fail if left unpowered for a period of time. I don’t know how many beverage coolers we’ve had dump all of their refrigerant out onto the floor. Quite the mess.
Nice! I used to work on true reach ins daily. They can be troublesome, the smaller they are.
I got that same true book
2 years ago at kalos symposium
We have freezers like this in the UK but it's always a replacement never a repair unless it's just the controller!
23:41
Loved the whole segment.
35:28
Work-hardened copper, it's a bitch.
Clean job Chris 👌
When the music come, i realized that what a perfect video
Hey Chris looks like you went all out on that little reach in. Kinda of like fishing for a minnow with a harpoon🙂. Lol. Guess if the customer is gonna pay, what the hell. Great vid as always.
The original condensate heater did look pretty bad so it wasn't surprising to see that it did leak. Just the way it did look told me that it was a question of time before it was due anyway.
Then I might question if the condensate collection was necessary there or if there was a floor drain close where it could go instead.
Have you ever used a steamer for clearing evaps? I do mostly residential and love mine. probably wouldn't work super well for walk ins, but for smaller reach ins, they make a lot less mess than a hose
Get some solder sleeves for those small wires! Way better than butt connectors!
How would you bill this job mate?
1st visit..callout + labour (1hr)
2nd visit. Travel time + labour + parts
3rd visit. Travel time + labour + parts
It's the return on 2&3 I'm having problems asking for! I know the above happens as its happened with myself!
Where did you install the drier? I have seen you use Flare fitting driers before and I have used them on Residential. Could you have rigged something like that up to give you another place to bleed the nitrogen away? I realize your space is limited in a fridge or freezer.
cheers for the content man 👍🍻
I do not pinch/unpinch. I evacuate the system and add the ports needed. To each their own I suppose.
Is true paying for the components to be replaced because they failed Due to manufacturer defect Just Like any appliance Made today they make it to fail
Brazing montage had little Beverly Hills Cop music in it. Get em Axel Foley. Lol
Ha! Ha! I was thinking 80's cinema soundtracks! Love the music he uses!😁
Great video Chris thank you for sharing it was very interesting and impressive your the man dude? Have a great day dude
Hey Chris.😁 I have a question about R-290. I worked for a refrigeration company right out of trade school back in '04. They dealt with 409-A, 134-A, 22. Never came across R-290. I was told in school that campers and rv's use propane, is that the same refrigerant? If not, what was it? Maybe this is a question for the live stream. Again, I have next to no knowledge of propane other than it exists (before watching your videos anyway). The work we did seems very similar to what you do. Love what you do Bud!!
I have a propane fridge that uses some sort of ammonia solution as a refrigerant. Instead of a pump, the fridge burns propane to create a heat differential that moves the ammonia solution around in the pipes. It can also be plugged into a 120v outlet to run a heating element instead of burning propane.
I understand that R290 is oderless, pure propane. It is NOT burnt, and is pumped around a refrigeration system like any other refrigerant.
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
When a copper coil turns green from oxidization, does it ever need to be replaced even if there is no leak detected on it?
Thanks again for the videos!
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍿🎯🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
So soft copper with the pinch off tool works a lot better. You can soften the copper by heating it red hot for a few seconds, at that point you can either cool it down with some water or just let it cool down naturally. The important part is just getting it red hot. Of course that's NOT something you wanna do with a charged 290 system so I'm not sure when this tip will ever be useful...
Kudos on your perseverance in tracking down those leaks!
I've used a lot of True products over the years, I find them to be quite robust - especially in the abusive food service environment. I can't tell you how many times I get the "Andy, water is coming up through the floor under the Coke cooler again" complaint, where I have to educate my coworkers that there's this thing called a condensate pan, and when it's full and an employee jostles the cooler, the water spills over the side of the pan (and, during the humid summertime, the pan overflows daily anyway - there's nothing we can do about it but keep tabs on it and mop as needed). The water is NOT coming up through the floors!
We have three separate spots where I hear the "water comes up through the floor, meaning the foundation is cracked" complaints, and I have to keep telling them, "LOOK UP!" The cause is always condensation on the A/C outlets or the leaking roof every time, and one might think that over 8 years of complaints about the roof leaking the property manager would do SOMETHING, but no, they won't even get up on the roof to mow the lawn. Yes, you read that right - we have a small garden of weeds growing on the roof. Someday I want to get up there to take a look at one of our exhaust hoods that isn't working, so I can tell Idiot With Toolbox to fix it. I don't know which unit(s) in the building, if any, have a roof hatch - if we had one, my nosy butt would have already scaled the ladder and poked around!
Yesterday, when closing, one of the crew shut off the only working exhaust fan, and the manager (she's only been with us for 2 months) had no idea why the oven refused to turn on. I discovered by accident a week ago that the oven was disabled when the hood fan was off - something I picked up in one of Chris' previous videos, and luckily was able to pass on this bit of knowledge. She was a bit disappointed to find the solution was simple, meaning the oven will still not be fixed. I had to bake my croissants an extra 25 minutes today because the oven preferred to stay 100° or more below its setpoint. It was 125° low the other day, had to power-cycle it to make it work again. This is another problem that has existed since I last worked at this store 8 years ago.
We bring in $200K of profit annually, can we maybe get the renovations we've been promised for over a decade? Or even just FIX OR REPLACE faulty equipment? Nope, we don't ABUSE the equipment, so therefore we must keep the dilapidated stuff we've been limping along with while the stores that destroy their equipment get NEW replacements. In my opinion, the stores that ruin brand new equipment should be forced to use the old stuff until they can prove they're willing to be a little more careful, and they should get the hand-me-downs from stores that take care of their equipment and deserve the latest and greatest...
This is why I could never be in an Upper Management position, because I'd be treating staff that acted like irresponsible children in a manner fitting to their attitude.
Gas and Propane fired Appliances can have flared fittings but they are running on less than 14 inches of W.C.
Nice video love watching
Great video. Do digital controls take the place of 3 switch klixon ? Or will they have both digital control with a dtfd in evaporator section wired back to digital control ?
Pretty cool that Propane is a good refrigerant gas.
At one point I said to myself, he's going back again!
those true display and modules are always a problem on true units
Love to see a follow up video regarding how much True shorts you on the warranty claim.
And, even more so, what your policy is regarding the difference. Do you charge the customer the difference?
This was not under warranty
@@HVACRVIDEOS in that case, why not replace the unit rather than the costly repairs?
This repair was a third of the cost of a new one.... so the customer chose to repair vs replace
True has a 3 year parts and labor warranty and a 5 year compressor warranty. If the unit is less than 5 years old but older than 3, and the compressor runs into a vacuum due to a Freon leak , True will warranty the whole condenser skid, which is pretty solid
You are seeing the propane leaking even before you hit it with the flame. This is called schlieren I think.
1000$ bill for a 3000$ freezer.
That sucks