I specialize in small appliance refrigeration. I really like watching your videos. I love how meticulous you are. I technician the same way. A few tips. Yellow jacket makes a special manifold for R-290a with awesome colored 2mmID hoses (41868). Use a lab grade microgram scale for your R-290a. I also use an Accutools S10767 right on the refrigerant canister so I can turn it off right on the scale. I put another two S10767 on my core tools so I don't lose anything. TruBlu evacuation, attach manifold to core tool side ports, close pump, charge into the high side, start the compressor, home stretch into the low side leaving room for what's left in the hose leading to the refrigerant canister. Shut the can off on the scale. Let the last 0.04oz out of the refrigerant line. Then insert the high side shrader core and clear my hoses. I can consistently meet the exact charge weight every time. You've taught me so much, I hope this helps.
Gotta hand it to you. I’ve grown to loath small systems like these. Super critical charges, cap tubes, tight spaces, all the abuse they take... I work on the opposite side of the spectrum in system size, so it makes it worse when I get calls out to systems with only a few lbs or less 🤣 I like working on the huge systems, but I have massive respect for anyone who is skilled with any system, giant or tiny. Sounds like you know wha you’re doing, my friend 🤙 Kudos
The exact charge is not so much of a big deal in systems with liquid receivers. In small cap-tube units, it gets a little hairy. But propane is an excellent refrigerant. I used to use it in lumber dry kiln dehumidifiers in place of R22. Gotta change the oil, though...
Would a piercing valve be a better choice for adding a temporary service port on these small appliances instead of brazing on a whole new port and chopping it off every time? 😆
Hey Chris. Saw you on the 60 the other morning with my coworker! That was me who said what’s up in the stake bed. We were on our way out to build a little reach in cooler. Keep it up with the videos bro! You’ve taught me a lot!!
R290 is an excellent refrigerant. It's nice to see that it is being accepted again in the USA. I used to run 290 in systems I built using R22 compressors about 30 years ago. But I was building dehumidifiers for lumber dry kilns in northern California in the early 1990s. Worked with R12, too before it was banned. R290 is almost a direct drop-in replacement for R22. It's good to see that flammable refrigerants are making a comeback. On larger systems, I was forced to use R22, due to fire regulations. But that was back in the 1990s... when R290 was still illegal in many areas.
Instead of using butt connectors, you can use the jelly bean connectors like they use with telephone wires. They're designed for small gauge wires and are waterproof. 👍
Absolutely,I am an Hvac mechanic for a very large communication company,and when in doubt we use the 3m scotchlok connectors,UR,S-UR,reds orand and the grays
Dude a small trick for the condenser drain Heater i learn on the imbera fridge workshop, they put Heat shrink on the coper line, and that help you a lot with the corrosion by water or any fluid in it also still transfer the heat to the water, isn't like proof of leaking but at least make it last more without leaks
For the sensor replacement splicing... I would suggest you get phone splice connectors, and get the wet environment ones that are gel filled, as they are designed to splice low voltage thin wires and be in hostile environments without much monitoring.
I don't understand how this repair is economical? You're spending hours on it at 100$/hr? Even though it's just a freezer. Great workmanship, love it, though
It may have been hard to see on site but the second service port you could actually see it leaking. Much like the ripples you see over a candle the same thing happens with leaking refridgerants or the like - that gas has a different density which causes the refraction of the light and you see it as that "wiggling" of the air. I was able to spot it on the second one because the camera angle was just right.
Dude, this is why I got the Inficon D-Tek Stratus... I’ve had the Fieldpiece and the TIF, which I know some people swear by, and that’s cool for them. But, I’ve had soooo many headaches with feeling ABSOLUTELY sure there’s a leak where it goes off, and then it disappears, reappears, kinda beeps... You throw some bubbles on it, and nothin’. Once I bucked up and paid for the Stratus, I haven’t once regretted it. I’ve found some of the smallest leaks just doing CARB audits on racks, and was actually recently called out to follow up on a milling machine chiller because the initial tech’s leak detector was messin’ him up (had to go all the way to Santa Clarita from Running Springs for that one 🤦🏼♂️), but I totally understood his plight, and frankly, that’s the only time I wish I didn’t have such a legit leak detector. Found the leak within 5 minutes of looking. My supervisor was like, “You got the Stratus, right?” Which was ultimately why I got sent to that one... haha... Anyway, I thought I remember one of your videos where you had one. Maybe I’m trippin’. In any case, Inficon Stratus is the best leak detector I’ve ever used. Awesome vid, as usual 🤙
It was very interesting because that r290(propane) system had two leaks. First in the evap coil then on that coiled discharge line in the drain pan. I watch your videos and they are awesome. I work on big refrigeration systems using r404a, but then I also work on household refrigerators which use isobutane(r600a) and most of them have leaks where cap tube enters the evap coil. Your sporlan's flare dryers and sight glasses are awesome, also sporlan's solenoid magnets and expansion valves are awesome too.
I remember True when they first came to UK in the 90's heaps. that this fridge is only 3 years old and leaking like a sieve is just incredible however to put a copper pipe in the condensate tray without protection or at least painting it is really bad practice and setting up for another service call in a couple of years (if the fridge makes it that long)
I saw something interesting about 8:33+. One on the Wago connector's levers was raised slightly. I saw another video recently that as standard practice, wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent a problem if a lever gets bumped and raised. Wago's are good connectors, but possibly they need to have a bit more "click" when closing. Just a thought...
You are kind. I really like what you are doing. I understand that you started the channel as a way to train employees, but it is doing so much more. Thank you!
Is true paying for the components to be replaced because they failed Due to manufacturer defect Just Like any appliance Made today they make it to fail
How would you bill this job mate? 1st visit..callout + labour (1hr) 2nd visit. Travel time + labour + parts 3rd visit. Travel time + labour + parts It's the return on 2&3 I'm having problems asking for! I know the above happens as its happened with myself!
Hey Chris hope all is well brother Wondering where did you get the support to gadget to hold the R290 can? I’m having to sit sideways & hold the hose so it doesn’t move with something heavy lol let me know if you have a link, thanks 🙏
Hello Cris my name is Oscar Pineda from Honduras I really like the videos I thank you for the effort you make I would like a video of the electrical circuits of a culler on how to install it grace
Marine connectors work good for sensors. They're like a butt connector that you put the wires in and they have solder in them. You use a lighter and it melts the solder and the outside of the connector is heat shrink so you get a good connection.
A recommendation (of course what do I know about refrigeration because I don't) I would make because you are dealing with high humid / water areas, you could use the butt splices that are impregned with dielectric grease which further seals the connection from water/moisture. The shrink tube is a great method though.
15:50 even as you say "we'll do a test to say if it is sealed", the gas escaping is clear as day. Might not have been visible from your perspective, but your camera sure caught that.
I'm surprised I don't see you use a thermal imaging unit more often to view the temp of multiple things simultaneously like evaporators for even cooling across them and so forth. I think they are very underrated when things are going wrong and i'm scratching my head trying to figure it out lol.
You're really good at explaining things to new techs and costumers and that's not easy to do and definitely I need to work on that... thanks for all your videos they help a lot
My God. finally an HVACR video. You could make a retro video of what tools you started with and make a comparison to the new stock. Piz Out Chris! from Chile.
It makes you wonder what could be in that condensate water that it would corrode copper tubing like that. It kind of looks like the underside of salt belt cars here in Upstate NY. I think that maybe when these units are new that you could spray a bit of Fluid Film on that copper coil so it may never spring a leak. Since it works really well even on rust buckets it it would be wonderful in the environment at bottom of a fridge or freezer.
I love the videos, but I have a question. I am a police officer but still studying to be a HVAC Technician part time. How can I gain experience in HVAC and still do my regular job?
Where did you install the drier? I have seen you use Flare fitting driers before and I have used them on Residential. Could you have rigged something like that up to give you another place to bleed the nitrogen away? I realize your space is limited in a fridge or freezer.
FYI - Instead of bending these wires over to increase the bulk of the wire a best pratice would be to tin those wires then put the butt connectors on. This will give you a much more reliable mechanical and electrical connection not to mention. I am not an HVAC person just an engineer. Ricky from IBM, Ret
It’s a crying shame True puts out a pile of garbage like that! I bet your poor customer put out $2000 to fix that pile of crap. Those fancy control modules are junk they should have never gotten away from the dial temp control and a $100 defrost timer. I know the battle when you have several problems at once it always seems the customer never understand this. Keep up the good content!
True has a 3 year P&L warranty and a 5 year compressor warranty. If the system runs in a vacuum within the first 5 years due to a Freon leak True will warranty the whole condenser skid. So that means new compressor, condenser coil and fan motor. Also, no paperwork to True for the parts, if it’s between 3-5 years old you don’t have to purchase the condenser section and then request credit, they just send you the whole thing
That serial port I would probably not be be too concerned those serial chips are generally have pretty good protections, often can handle kv of -or + surge voltage.
Hey Chris.😁 I have a question about R-290. I worked for a refrigeration company right out of trade school back in '04. They dealt with 409-A, 134-A, 22. Never came across R-290. I was told in school that campers and rv's use propane, is that the same refrigerant? If not, what was it? Maybe this is a question for the live stream. Again, I have next to no knowledge of propane other than it exists (before watching your videos anyway). The work we did seems very similar to what you do. Love what you do Bud!!
I have a propane fridge that uses some sort of ammonia solution as a refrigerant. Instead of a pump, the fridge burns propane to create a heat differential that moves the ammonia solution around in the pipes. It can also be plugged into a 120v outlet to run a heating element instead of burning propane. I understand that R290 is oderless, pure propane. It is NOT burnt, and is pumped around a refrigeration system like any other refrigerant.
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
This expansion cable are for temperature recorder if the customer wants to record the temperature over the internet you have to use RS232 to RS485 with lae recorder
Ate all those Wago conectors stock from the manufacturer? What's your experience with them, cuz I know electricians in north american love to hate on them.
Nice work! I hate the crimp tool, just slap a pierce valve on it pull a vac after the dump and get it to boil off and never had an issue, i like to add way more discharge loop to it and help these little cu's out, filling the pan with water and pressure check is how i find these, true are the good ones to work on, your doing the trade a favor posting these, thank you sir!
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening on RUclips 11/22/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/wtUIZMmrfAQ/видео.html
If you guys are wondering why it's flashing is because the camera shutter it keeps on shutting it shut so fast that it looks like it's flashing but in IRL it's not flashing
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
I specialize in small appliance refrigeration. I really like watching your videos. I love how meticulous you are. I technician the same way. A few tips. Yellow jacket makes a special manifold for R-290a with awesome colored 2mmID hoses (41868). Use a lab grade microgram scale for your R-290a. I also use an Accutools S10767 right on the refrigerant canister so I can turn it off right on the scale. I put another two S10767 on my core tools so I don't lose anything. TruBlu evacuation, attach manifold to core tool side ports, close pump, charge into the high side, start the compressor, home stretch into the low side leaving room for what's left in the hose leading to the refrigerant canister. Shut the can off on the scale. Let the last 0.04oz out of the refrigerant line. Then insert the high side shrader core and clear my hoses. I can consistently meet the exact charge weight every time. You've taught me so much, I hope this helps.
I have not work on R-290a system yet, but nice tips. Thanks
Gotta hand it to you. I’ve grown to loath small systems like these. Super critical charges, cap tubes, tight spaces, all the abuse they take... I work on the opposite side of the spectrum in system size, so it makes it worse when I get calls out to systems with only a few lbs or less 🤣 I like working on the huge systems, but I have massive respect for anyone who is skilled with any system, giant or tiny. Sounds like you know wha you’re doing, my friend 🤙 Kudos
The exact charge is not so much of a big deal in systems with liquid receivers. In small cap-tube units, it gets a little hairy. But propane is an excellent refrigerant. I used to use it in lumber dry kiln dehumidifiers in place of R22. Gotta change the oil, though...
Would a piercing valve be a better choice for adding a temporary service port on these small appliances instead of brazing on a whole new port and chopping it off every time? 😆
I hope that was a warranty repair. Evaporator, control, and three visits have to be close to the cost of a new unit.
I am not in the industry, but I enjoy watching...I have learned so much...even noticing the WAGO connectors in this unit...keep being awesome.
An expensive repair as you have nearly changed a good half of the fridge freezer sys
tem 😂
Hey Chris. Saw you on the 60 the other morning with my coworker! That was me who said what’s up in the stake bed. We were on our way out to build a little reach in cooler. Keep it up with the videos bro! You’ve taught me a lot!!
Right on bud!!!
@Stolen Election very common armenian last name dude, I do not!
R290 is an excellent refrigerant. It's nice to see that it is being accepted again in the USA. I used to run 290 in systems I built using R22 compressors about 30 years ago. But I was building dehumidifiers for lumber dry kilns in northern California in the early 1990s. Worked with R12, too before it was banned. R290 is almost a direct drop-in replacement for R22. It's good to see that flammable refrigerants are making a comeback. On larger systems, I was forced to use R22, due to fire regulations. But that was back in the 1990s... when R290 was still illegal in many areas.
Instead of using butt connectors, you can use the jelly bean connectors like they use with telephone wires.
They're designed for small gauge wires and are waterproof. 👍
Absolutely,I am an Hvac mechanic for a very large communication company,and when in doubt we use the 3m scotchlok connectors,UR,S-UR,reds orand and the grays
I'm gonna order some of those !! Thanks guys
@m9 ovich butt connectors are not rated for solid conductors, they are ONLY rated for stranded conductors.
No stay with solder and shrink tube
Dude a small trick for the condenser drain Heater i learn on the imbera fridge workshop, they put Heat shrink on the coper line, and that help you a lot with the corrosion by water or any fluid in it also still transfer the heat to the water, isn't like proof of leaking but at least make it last more without leaks
Could have sworn I saw some bubbles when leak checking condensate coil WHILE IT WAS IN WATER. Go back and have a look see.
Smiled when you re-did the service ports and removed the crimps. Hope your customers appreciate the attention to detail you and your crews display!
For the sensor replacement splicing... I would suggest you get phone splice connectors, and get the wet environment ones that are gel filled, as they are designed to splice low voltage thin wires and be in hostile environments without much monitoring.
Yes ,the ur and s.u.r connectors,also the gray ones for 22-26awg,pretty much good for submersion .
I don't understand how this repair is economical? You're spending hours on it at 100$/hr? Even though it's just a freezer. Great workmanship, love it, though
It may have been hard to see on site but the second service port you could actually see it leaking. Much like the ripples you see over a candle the same thing happens with leaking refridgerants or the like - that gas has a different density which causes the refraction of the light and you see it as that "wiggling" of the air. I was able to spot it on the second one because the camera angle was just right.
Dude, this is why I got the Inficon D-Tek Stratus... I’ve had the Fieldpiece and the TIF, which I know some people swear by, and that’s cool for them. But, I’ve had soooo many headaches with feeling ABSOLUTELY sure there’s a leak where it goes off, and then it disappears, reappears, kinda beeps... You throw some bubbles on it, and nothin’. Once I bucked up and paid for the Stratus, I haven’t once regretted it. I’ve found some of the smallest leaks just doing CARB audits on racks, and was actually recently called out to follow up on a milling machine chiller because the initial tech’s leak detector was messin’ him up (had to go all the way to Santa Clarita from Running Springs for that one 🤦🏼♂️), but I totally understood his plight, and frankly, that’s the only time I wish I didn’t have such a legit leak detector. Found the leak within 5 minutes of looking. My supervisor was like, “You got the Stratus, right?” Which was ultimately why I got sent to that one... haha... Anyway, I thought I remember one of your videos where you had one. Maybe I’m trippin’. In any case, Inficon Stratus is the best leak detector I’ve ever used. Awesome vid, as usual 🤙
It was very interesting because that r290(propane) system had two leaks. First in the evap coil then on that coiled discharge line in the drain pan. I watch your videos and they are awesome. I work on big refrigeration systems using r404a, but then I also work on household refrigerators which use isobutane(r600a) and most of them have leaks where cap tube enters the evap coil. Your sporlan's flare dryers and sight glasses are awesome, also sporlan's solenoid magnets and expansion valves are awesome too.
I see the quality is now even worse than 15 years ago. This is my surprised face.
I remember True when they first came to UK in the 90's
heaps.
that this fridge is only 3 years old and leaking like a sieve is just incredible
however to put a copper pipe in the condensate tray without protection or at least painting it is really bad practice and setting up for another service call in a couple of years (if the fridge makes it that long)
You made a bundle on the reachin new evap new heater no call back nice
I saw something interesting about 8:33+. One on the Wago connector's levers was raised slightly. I saw another video recently that as standard practice, wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent a problem if a lever gets bumped and raised. Wago's are good connectors, but possibly they need to have a bit more "click" when closing. Just a thought...
You are kind. I really like what you are doing. I understand that you started the channel as a way to train employees, but it is doing so much more. Thank you!
Is true paying for the components to be replaced because they failed Due to manufacturer defect Just Like any appliance Made today they make it to fail
How would you bill this job mate?
1st visit..callout + labour (1hr)
2nd visit. Travel time + labour + parts
3rd visit. Travel time + labour + parts
It's the return on 2&3 I'm having problems asking for! I know the above happens as its happened with myself!
Excellent Trouble Shooting and repairs, 1/22 /2023yr
Hey Chris hope all is well brother
Wondering where did you get the support to gadget to hold the R290 can? I’m having to sit sideways & hold the hose so it doesn’t move with something heavy lol let me know if you have a link, thanks 🙏
30:55 - Your Fieldpiece app is screaming 2.00. Where are you seeing 2.08?!
Hello Cris my name is Oscar Pineda from Honduras I really like the videos I thank you for the effort you make I would like a video of the electrical circuits of a culler on how to install it grace
Marine connectors work good for sensors. They're like a butt connector that you put the wires in and they have solder in them. You use a lighter and it melts the solder and the outside of the connector is heat shrink so you get a good connection.
skecth is right man. some ballsy shit brazing a propane system with pinch off tool
I thought that I'd watch you unsweet and then put in the new coil and then in sweat in the new coil damn it...
Get some solder sleeves for those small wires! Way better than butt connectors!
Plus the kitchen people never coarperate there very difficult
A recommendation (of course what do I know about refrigeration because I don't) I would make because you are dealing with high humid / water areas, you could use the butt splices that are impregned with dielectric grease which further seals the connection from water/moisture. The shrink tube is a great method though.
This unit was nice and dirty.....😑😑😑
1000$ bill for a 3000$ freezer.
That sucks
15:50 even as you say "we'll do a test to say if it is sealed", the gas escaping is clear as day. Might not have been visible from your perspective, but your camera sure caught that.
I'm surprised I don't see you use a thermal imaging unit more often to view the temp of multiple things simultaneously like evaporators for even cooling across them and so forth. I think they are very underrated when things are going wrong and i'm scratching my head trying to figure it out lol.
Use dolphin connectors for the small wire. I use those on all CPC and Danfoss sensors. Just a thought. Instead of butt-connectors
You're really good at explaining things to new techs and costumers and that's not easy to do and definitely I need to work on that... thanks for all your videos they help a lot
You are seeing the propane leaking even before you hit it with the flame. This is called schlieren I think.
seriously love your videos, after a long hard day of service work nothing beats this. no lie.
At one point I said to myself, he's going back again!
My God. finally an HVACR video. You could make a retro video of what tools you started with and make a comparison to the new stock. Piz Out Chris! from Chile.
Chris the restaurant work is the toughest
those true display and modules are always a problem on true units
I always learn from your videos
That screw from the door reminded me of that scene from The Breakfast Club 😂
Well done my friend!.....that was my first time seeing pinch-off tools....
professional explanation all the way thru. Keep up the great work. A+++
5:09 How can it be a retrofit kit when it is the exact controller and module? wouldn't that just be replacement parts?
Maybe a tech already installed a retro kit into the unit? I did catch what he said too
i like the 80s porn music lol
I want 3 arms to work on stuff. Lol
Should have just got a new Avantco or Hoshizaki Economy freezer.
I do not pinch/unpinch. I evacuate the system and add the ports needed. To each their own I suppose.
It makes you wonder what could be in that condensate water that it would corrode copper tubing like that. It kind of looks like the underside of salt belt cars here in Upstate NY. I think that maybe when these units are new that you could spray a bit of Fluid Film on that copper coil so it may never spring a leak. Since it works really well even on rust buckets it it would be wonderful in the environment at bottom of a fridge or freezer.
Anyone else see the gas leaking when he was testing before brazing that service port?
Yes!😁
I love the videos, but I have a question. I am a police officer but still studying to be a HVAC Technician part time. How can I gain experience in HVAC and still do my regular job?
You are so knowledgeable ! And explain things so well.
Where did you install the drier? I have seen you use Flare fitting driers before and I have used them on Residential. Could you have rigged something like that up to give you another place to bleed the nitrogen away? I realize your space is limited in a fridge or freezer.
I use rectoseal pro fit quick connect refrigerant line connected in seconds I pressurized system to 400 PSI no leak through profit connection
I bury those HGC loops in big blue and stare. Quickest and most reliable method IMO. It's messy though sometimes
"Let me just pull everything out of your freezer and rebuild it." LOL. 😆 (Well, I guess the compressor and fan motor got to stay.)
FYI - Instead of bending these wires over to increase the bulk of the wire a best pratice would be to tin those wires then put the butt connectors on. This will give you a much more reliable mechanical and electrical connection not to mention. I am not an HVAC person just an engineer.
Ricky from IBM, Ret
It’s a crying shame True puts out a pile of garbage like that! I bet your poor customer put out $2000 to fix that pile of crap. Those fancy control modules are junk they should have never gotten away from the dial temp control and a $100 defrost timer. I know the battle when you have several problems at once it always seems the customer never understand this. Keep up the good content!
True has a 3 year P&L warranty and a 5 year compressor warranty. If the system runs in a vacuum within the first 5 years due to a Freon leak True will warranty the whole condenser skid. So that means new compressor, condenser coil and fan motor. Also, no paperwork to True for the parts, if it’s between 3-5 years old you don’t have to purchase the condenser section and then request credit, they just send you the whole thing
Thanks for a another great video! With the extra bonus of brazing montage music!
Brazing music is great!😁
True had me affix a 1" piece of PVC to the back of the box and drill a hole in the box and run the wiring in the pipe... It worked...
That serial port I would probably not be be too concerned those serial chips are generally have pretty good protections, often can handle kv of -or + surge voltage.
First ... you said Butt ... several times ... now the my 7 year old moment is done ... why replace the sensors if they are working?
Hey Chris.😁 I have a question about R-290. I worked for a refrigeration company right out of trade school back in '04. They dealt with 409-A, 134-A, 22. Never came across R-290. I was told in school that campers and rv's use propane, is that the same refrigerant? If not, what was it? Maybe this is a question for the live stream. Again, I have next to no knowledge of propane other than it exists (before watching your videos anyway). The work we did seems very similar to what you do. Love what you do Bud!!
I have a propane fridge that uses some sort of ammonia solution as a refrigerant. Instead of a pump, the fridge burns propane to create a heat differential that moves the ammonia solution around in the pipes. It can also be plugged into a 120v outlet to run a heating element instead of burning propane.
I understand that R290 is oderless, pure propane. It is NOT burnt, and is pumped around a refrigeration system like any other refrigerant.
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
When a copper coil turns green from oxidization, does it ever need to be replaced even if there is no leak detected on it?
How come there's not. A spacer underneath. The round thing coils they're just sitting on metal how come there's not a spacing thing in between.
Lol right....
This expansion cable are for temperature recorder if the customer wants to record the temperature over the internet you have to use RS232 to RS485 with lae recorder
Don't hold much might as well dump the charge just weight back in. Why pinch dangerous
Its horrendously stupid to plug off any compressed system with a body part. That was just stupid.
Ate all those Wago conectors stock from the manufacturer? What's your experience with them, cuz I know electricians in north american love to hate on them.
Gas and Propane fired Appliances can have flared fittings but they are running on less than 14 inches of W.C.
Hi, Your pinch off tool. Is an adjustable spanner (wrench in the USA)
5:25 nice that there are still good company's that try to make everything as easy as possible.
great info
Nice work! I hate the crimp tool, just slap a pierce valve on it pull a vac after the dump and get it to boil off and never had an issue, i like to add way more discharge loop to it and help these little cu's out, filling the pan with water and pressure check is how i find these, true are the good ones to work on, your doing the trade a favor posting these, thank you sir!
Was this warranty? I would think that the repair would not be cost effective if the customer was responsible for the bill
If this is a True Stand-up Freezer, how come it never told any jokes?
Probably some micro-cracks in that condensate tube and with the higher nitrogen pressure you were able to force that propane out?
Brazing montage had little Beverly Hills Cop music in it. Get em Axel Foley. Lol
Ha! Ha! I was thinking 80's cinema soundtracks! Love the music he uses!😁
I think Wago makes gel filled boxes you can close around their connectors now.
Why not use a piercing valve?
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening on RUclips 11/22/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/wtUIZMmrfAQ/видео.html
Go to Home Depot and buy a stand up freezer and throw that thing away.
If you guys are wondering why it's flashing is because the camera shutter it keeps on shutting it shut so fast that it looks like it's flashing but in IRL it's not flashing
We have freezers like this in the UK but it's always a replacement never a repair unless it's just the controller!
like you had mention before,pan must be dry or your pressures will be very low and it will cool slow.
Just curious but why not just use refrigerant line taps instead of sweating in service ports? Personal preference?
I'm glad that Wagos are being embraced now all over but, the implementation here is horrible!
How did you charge for this job men. Because my company todo that. We talking about $ 2000 job ...and new the unit cost. $ 1500.
they cost 5000.00 if you can find one.
Hello master good job.please subtiters write turkish or russian.
Nice video if that was here id do a a421 with a supco EDT 10...
Communication is key. I'm enjoying these vids.
Could you pinch it off evacuate freon and then cut it back to a regular brake joint
Why not have recovery shark bite shraders that crimp is too sketch with propane
Are flared fittings allowed with 290 ?
Try using the self sealing marine connectors for wires in these settings.
Why not just use piercing valves for service ports?
They leak
@@HVACRVIDEOS for testing only they get removed.know you cant tell if it had a leak ,you vented the gas.then checked for leaks.
I will discuss this on my livestream this evening 11/15/21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/3viwpQZ83GM/видео.html
Great video Chris, thank you so much
True tells you to splice sensors lol,