Roman - I always appreciate your videos. Firstly, from one who travels alone (I'm divorced), it can be lonely and quite hard at times. There is nobody around to add some motivation, and you really have to be focused not to fall into a dark hole and not come out again. I like it that you are always on the top of things and don't let other things in life distract from your purpose (photography). Secondly, for the uninitiated, most people don't realise the time and editing and filming that goes into make a good YT video. Also, I think you are self-sponsored, so the way things are now for professional photographers, you wouldn't be rolling in money, but you still manage to be out there for us, day in day out, making your wonderful content. You are much appreciated!
U can also use back button focusing, and continuous AF, just press the focus once and it will act like one shot af. When you need to track then just hold the button down.
Hi Roman. I have been a working photographer for years and still love your videos. For another possible opinion, One thing I was told by a military marksman was that actually exhale in a steady controlled manner as this releases tension and reduces shake. Apparently that’s how they train for really long accurate shots. Thanks for all your work.
Heard the same thing from the same kind of specialist! He said you need to be so relaxed your tongue is hanging out of your mouth, then you can take a good shot!
Yep, I was going to tell about this one for using it instinctively for decades whether it's photography or target shooting for hobby. Exhaling is the best way to minimize body shaking, strong heart beats that shake the torso and muscle tension. For me it's a second nature whenever I take a photo whatever the conditions. Also used to apnea/spearfishing but as the body is under respiratory tension and lungs full, it takes a whole lot different approach to relax and shoot bullseye on targets. Those totally opposed methods are eye opening when it comes to knowing breathing techniques and their importance.
I took my first "real" photos on my first Fujifilm camera on that same street in Porto, and I THINK I stayed in the same hotel (the wall looks super familiar) when doing it. I was even subscribed at the time, but am only now seeing this video. So cool! Learning a lot from your channel and excited to keep pursuing photography as a hobby.
that bit at 13:30 about using the spot removal tool? THANK YOU! I felt like an absolute madman for regularly doing that meself for images, or what I like to jokingly call "dandruff scrubbing". but once done, it makes SO MUCH DIFFERENCE. really makes the image POP more, when done well. (the trick I find especially, is to remove clutter from areas you don't want peeps to focus on, but then leave SOME clutter in the areas you DO want focus on... as a little clutter contrast to draw the eye)
Another well thought out video Roman, really great suggestions, thank you. You seem to have covered the full range of issues for taking sharp photos. When shooting handheld, as a one-handed southpaw, I generally shoot while looking through the viewfinder (my second point of contact) and exhale during the shot. I try to ensure I have a solid stance with my feet at least shoulder wideth apart and one foot forward of the other. Great channel Roman.
First of all greetings from Portugal. Nice views from the beautiful of Porto and River Douro. Cool tips for rookies and the ones like me that can not afford to buy a better equipment. I´m gonna give a try on those tips. Thanks to share with us. I will share this video in my blog also.
Outstanding video clear explanations, good and inspiring illustrations, perfect script… congratulations Roman! It is amazing to realize the path you have been through so far
Roman I look forward every week to your videos I have an XT 4 and find all your tips invaluable Thankyou This one is no exception and thoroughly enjoyable and very educational Thanks heaps again 😊
Single point AF is faster than other modes on DSLR… the logic of focusing speed on dslr vs mirrorless is literally inverted between the two… dslr locks on fast, but has to obtain lock every time. Dslr locks on faster with less focus points, while mirrorless locks on faster with more points, and more focus-time (continuous, pre-focusing)… the two strategies are almost exactly inversions of each other, when considering focus speed logic
There are some cases when you really would want f/22 and above, but honestly those days with digital cameras (variable ISO, image stabilization and focus stacking), you almost never need it. If you do need it, then diffraction is acceptable compared to areas being out of focus. One should look into hyperfocal distance as well and understanding for example where to set focus manually to get the nearest and furthest points in focus, which can be difficult with modern lenses. Most of the time though you really need only the subject in focus, it’s okay i unimportant foreground or background elements are out of focus.
I like the simple, bite size break down of the main areas, followed by the further simple, break down in those main areas. I couldn't get over you sitting in a chair in front of your sofa though. Lovely room. Muted colours to show off the colour in the art hanging up. I see what you did there.
Roman, I always watch and "like" your videos, but on a TV, which means I can't often comment. They're always interesting, but thanks for this one in particular which I found very helpful.
This was a really well thought out and succinct overview of the subject! Thorsten Overgaard has interesting articles about perceived sharpness, addressing what is more a mental or psychological perspective. It is a fascinating subject. I would add to your comments that the aperture selection also depends upon the sensor resolution. Some (Red Dot Forum discussions, for instance) suggest not stopping down past a certain point (camera and lens specific) due to the effects of pixel density. Similarly, some sensors yield good results at high ISO values such that the photographer can let the ISO value float and just concentrate on shutter/aperture selection.
Hahah I'm glad you pointed out to hold our breaths! I must say that is one of the overlooked things when it comes to taking pinpoint sharp photos... I found myself guilty sometimes of this, especially when doing photowalks. Sometimes I walk fast and stop and shoot, chances are I'm breathing heavily/catching my breath while composing a shot, resulting in a not-so-sharp photo or worse, out of focus. Great vids as always! I mostly watch your videos when I came back to photography again after retiring my film camera due to prices/practicality. I main a Fuji X-T2 now with a 27/35 lens combo (from my father's Nikon d300).
This is an ongoing topic that you've covered before and certainly will again! And, your explanation is always clear and easy to understand. Here's something that I'm not sure about in terms of how often it is requested. But, every time I watch you especially I wonder about it because I suck at it! What am I talking about? Shooting via the LCD instead of the EVF. I seem to have such a mental block about it which seems silly given that before getting my X-T3 I was shooting with my Pixel 2 XL for a few years! Oh well.... Thanks again for your content. Have a great weekend!
Great video. You can also use electronic shutter (as long as the subject isn't moving). I use luminar neo and need to see if it can sharpen edges only.
How do you know when it's time to recalibrate a lens? My 56 drives me nuts, never seems to nail focus. I'm sure I'm also part of the problem but I have my suspicions that something is up with the lens...
My 16-55 was just soft for no reason. I tried everything and it always felt like it slightly missed. At the time it was 3 years old and heavily used - the rubber grip was falling off.... so I sent it in for its first service and mentioned the focusing. It came back with the focusing reset and I noticed an improvement.
Marvelous video, Roman. Congrats!!! I might say that all the meanfull topics related to sharpness have been covered through a natural and understandable narrative. Awesome! See ya, blue skies 🤙🏻🍀📸
Great video Roman. Love your channel mate. really liked the tip regarding using Masking when sharpening. It's something I've not used before as I did not really know what it did. TBH I really never worried much about using the sharpening tool but will do so now on the photos that can benefit from it.
Those are great tips, but I noticed you don't use a lens hood. That's the quickest and cheapest way to improve sharpness. Shading your eyes with your hands (even on a dull day) demonstrates how effective this is--and our eyes are better than any camera lens!
no I still have the XT5. However for travel the XH2 / 2s combo is unbeatable. Specifically in terms of hybrid photo and video work. The XT5 is my light photo only set up
Get a camera with IBIS, even better one that will combine that with any in lens stabilisation (in the M43 world most Olympus and many Panasonic cameras do the job)
Thank you for sharing these tips. With regards to squarespace, if you post your image without a title, is the image number still in the background for easy access if a person wishes to purchase that image? I understand that your video wasn't about squarespace but I thought I would ask this question anyway. Thank you.
@@snapsbyfox When you were talking about squarespace, you showed your images. I was just wondering if a person wanted to purchase one of those images, does that image have the image number in the background so that you can trace that image easily for printing purposes?
Excellent video as ever. I really need to break my dependence on single shot and try something different and you have inspired me to do so. One thing I would say…as a Fuji user…I run all my ‘keepers’ through the Enhance feature in LR. It takes ages and produces a DNG file but in terms of perceived sharpness - it is like night an day. Give it a go on an unedited RAW and then edit as per normal…
Roman I am just starting my photography journey and I wanted to say thank you for all your videos especially in pertaining to shooting with fujifilm as I’ve become smitten with the images they produce. Im hoping to pick up an xt5 or xh2s for Black Friday I just can’t decide between the two haha. Thank you once again and cheers from Los Angeles.
Nice topic, Roman. Pixel peepers like me - an admitted pixel peeper - will always find something NOT sharp. To me, the sharpness is just another attribute that can either add to the image or can be agnostic to the image, depending on your intent. If I'm shooting street photography midday, I'm already at F8/F11 ISO 800 or thereabouts (although shooting ISO auto mostly these days when traveling) or I'm shooting manual and the entire issue is much less a factor. So my expectations are quite different than for example, shooting low light, versus shooting at 5.6 portrait style. At 5.6 I don't tolerate noise or sharpness as well because my expectations are different. In essence, it's all part of the intent.
thx - very useful. Question on shutter speed being 1/ double the focal length of the lens- this needs adjustment for crop, ie 35mm on APS-C = 50mm FF which would then translate into 1/100th min shutter speed ?
I done it for full frame sizes but tbh I roughly do it for crop too. These are very safe numbers and in many cases you can go lower if needs be. Most of the time I'm sitting well above 1/200. I should have labeled that in hindsight
Great video as always. I have one out of topic question. Did you switch from your X-T5 to X-H2 for street ? I remember you talking about smaller size of X-T5 which is nice for street but lately it is X-H2 in your videos so I was just curious.
Nah I still have the XT5 and it is my dedicated photo camera. The XH2 / 2s are my workhorses for both photo and video. For travel they are just more practical
As a fellow fuji photographer @an_african_tale, I came into possession of a Q2 this week. Superb, truly. Interested to see you with one in the thumbnail.
Most modern primes are pretty much as sharp as they get by about 1 stop under. So for a 1.4 say f/2. And more generally 5.6 tends to be the best for most lenses 2.8 and faster. That said all the gear stuff usually not the problem most people are having. Mostly it's shit technique.
When I look back at all photographs I have taken over many years, those suffering from sharpness issues are due to a shutter speed too slow and the shutter speed chosen being a result from program mode (P) or aperture priority mode where most cameras are notoriously trying to keep the ISO low at the expense of an unsuitable shutter speed.
There is a lot of videos on taking sharp photos BUT I would say this is most complete one. By far. I just would have included the sharpness setting in all cameras and the AI help nowadays (ahead of traditional editing), but I fully understand why you didn't.
oh my sharpness setting in the camera is turned way down. Also, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the sharpness setting in camera is for JPEGs... not RAWs.
@@snapsbyfox TRUE! just for JPEGs! But 1) depending on the brand is way different to apply sharpness in post vs. in camera, 2) you can edit with PhotoAI, DxO... in RAW and 3) not all people is shooting in RAW (not all proffesionals or cool kids with plenty of time to edit!).
The discussion of ISO is incomplete here. High ISO with low light is better than low ISO corrected in post. The noise will be much less with proper ISO.
Sharpness is overrated. I hate that all lens manufacturers are aiming for their lenses to be as sharp as possible instead of trying to make a lens with a specific rendering, like they used to make. Also if you are noticing that your photo is not sharp enough, it's probably just a boring photo or you are bad at focusing or understanding how to properly use aperture.
I honestly find sharpness overrated. If a photo is compelling it does not need to be crazy sharp. I get the best photos when I am thinking more about composition, moment, light, and colors.
"...if you have a mid-range camera and lens from the last 5-6 years, you have everything you need to take a perfectly sharp picture..." *stares at my nearly decade old mid-range DSLR body* I have phase detect, so I know my old DSLR isn't THAT bad, I still thought it was funny how my cam is almost twice as old as the range they said was "good enough" less than a minute into the video 🤣
what difference does it make? I have friends, girlfriend, other cameras etc in the thumbnail before. If this was a video about a specific camera, sure. Also who says I dont use one… 99% of my life is not for the public to see :)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Roman, yours has become one of the best RUclips channels for photography. Great photos, great content. Congrats.
Very kind, thank you
Roman - I always appreciate your videos. Firstly, from one who travels alone (I'm divorced), it can be lonely and quite hard at times. There is nobody around to add some motivation, and you really have to be focused not to fall into a dark hole and not come out again. I like it that you are always on the top of things and don't let other things in life distract from your purpose (photography). Secondly, for the uninitiated, most people don't realise the time and editing and filming that goes into make a good YT video. Also, I think you are self-sponsored, so the way things are now for professional photographers, you wouldn't be rolling in money, but you still manage to be out there for us, day in day out, making your wonderful content. You are much appreciated!
It's better to be alone. rather than to wish you were alone. Congratulations on the divorce. You will be much happier in the long run.
Thanks for all you do and for the free inspiration you always give ♥
Wow this is so kind of you!! Seriously, thank you.
U can also use back button focusing, and continuous AF, just press the focus once and it will act like one shot af. When you need to track then just hold the button down.
that's what I do typically! (if I'm not in manual mode)
Hi Roman. I have been a working photographer for years and still love your videos.
For another possible opinion, One thing I was told by a military marksman was that actually exhale in a steady controlled manner as this releases tension and reduces shake. Apparently that’s how they train for really long accurate shots.
Thanks for all your work.
Heard the same thing from the same kind of specialist! He said you need to be so relaxed your tongue is hanging out of your mouth, then you can take a good shot!
Yep, I was going to tell about this one for using it instinctively for decades whether it's photography or target shooting for hobby.
Exhaling is the best way to minimize body shaking, strong heart beats that shake the torso and muscle tension.
For me it's a second nature whenever I take a photo whatever the conditions.
Also used to apnea/spearfishing but as the body is under respiratory tension and lungs full, it takes a whole lot different approach to relax and shoot bullseye on targets.
Those totally opposed methods are eye opening when it comes to knowing breathing techniques and their importance.
Unbelievably valuable video. I've been shooting for a good few years now but still feel like I've learnt from this video
Thank you so much Roman…fan of your channel and love the clarity you bring to every topic
I took my first "real" photos on my first Fujifilm camera on that same street in Porto, and I THINK I stayed in the same hotel (the wall looks super familiar) when doing it. I was even subscribed at the time, but am only now seeing this video. So cool! Learning a lot from your channel and excited to keep pursuing photography as a hobby.
that bit at 13:30 about using the spot removal tool? THANK YOU!
I felt like an absolute madman for regularly doing that meself for images, or what I like to jokingly call "dandruff scrubbing". but once done, it makes SO MUCH DIFFERENCE.
really makes the image POP more, when done well.
(the trick I find especially, is to remove clutter from areas you don't want peeps to focus on, but then leave SOME clutter in the areas you DO want focus on... as a little clutter contrast to draw the eye)
Another well thought out video Roman, really great suggestions, thank you. You seem to have covered the full range of issues for taking sharp photos. When shooting handheld, as a one-handed southpaw, I generally shoot while looking through the viewfinder (my second point of contact) and exhale during the shot. I try to ensure I have a solid stance with my feet at least shoulder wideth apart and one foot forward of the other. Great channel Roman.
First of all greetings from Portugal. Nice views from the beautiful of Porto and River Douro. Cool tips for rookies and the ones like me that can not afford to buy a better equipment. I´m gonna give a try on those tips. Thanks to share with us. I will share this video in my blog also.
Outstanding video clear explanations, good and inspiring illustrations, perfect script… congratulations Roman! It is amazing to realize the path you have been through so far
Thank you!
Very well disserted, Roman! Well done again
thanks for sharing your knowledge, the way you dissect it to the simplest form, is such an enjoyable learning experience.
A BIG thank you for this one Roman....
What a wonderful and useful channel! Thank you so much
Roman I look forward every week to your videos I have an XT 4 and find all your tips invaluable Thankyou This one is no exception and thoroughly enjoyable and very educational Thanks heaps again 😊
Single point AF is faster than other modes on DSLR… the logic of focusing speed on dslr vs mirrorless is literally inverted between the two… dslr locks on fast, but has to obtain lock every time. Dslr locks on faster with less focus points, while mirrorless locks on faster with more points, and more focus-time (continuous, pre-focusing)… the two strategies are almost exactly inversions of each other, when considering focus speed logic
Hi Roman, This is an excellent video and you have covered all the aspects of getting a sharp photo. Enjoy watching your videos, keep up the good work.
Many thanks Roman for your very helpful tips - much appreciated. 👍
Thanks Roman, so many practical tips I can use! 🎉
There are some cases when you really would want f/22 and above, but honestly those days with digital cameras (variable ISO, image stabilization and focus stacking), you almost never need it. If you do need it, then diffraction is acceptable compared to areas being out of focus. One should look into hyperfocal distance as well and understanding for example where to set focus manually to get the nearest and furthest points in focus, which can be difficult with modern lenses. Most of the time though you really need only the subject in focus, it’s okay i unimportant foreground or background elements are out of focus.
Great advice, Roman! Thank you. 👍
Thank you so much. You just made me a better photographer in 15 minutes.
I like the simple, bite size break down of the main areas, followed by the further simple, break down in those main areas. I couldn't get over you sitting in a chair in front of your sofa though. Lovely room. Muted colours to show off the colour in the art hanging up. I see what you did there.
Nice! Always expecting your weekly videos. Thanks Roman.
Thanks!!
I watch two photography channels, Roman and James Popsys, I don’t need to see anyone else.
Roman, I always watch and "like" your videos, but on a TV, which means I can't often comment. They're always interesting, but thanks for this one in particular which I found very helpful.
Always amazing content, thank you and congrats Roman
So many great tips! Thank You!
This was a really well thought out and succinct overview of the subject! Thorsten Overgaard has interesting articles about perceived sharpness, addressing what is more a mental or psychological perspective. It is a fascinating subject. I would add to your comments that the aperture selection also depends upon the sensor resolution. Some (Red Dot Forum discussions, for instance) suggest not stopping down past a certain point (camera and lens specific) due to the effects of pixel density. Similarly, some sensors yield good results at high ISO values such that the photographer can let the ISO value float and just concentrate on shutter/aperture selection.
Hahah I'm glad you pointed out to hold our breaths! I must say that is one of the overlooked things when it comes to taking pinpoint sharp photos... I found myself guilty sometimes of this, especially when doing photowalks. Sometimes I walk fast and stop and shoot, chances are I'm breathing heavily/catching my breath while composing a shot, resulting in a not-so-sharp photo or worse, out of focus.
Great vids as always! I mostly watch your videos when I came back to photography again after retiring my film camera due to prices/practicality. I main a Fuji X-T2 now with a 27/35 lens combo (from my father's Nikon d300).
This is an ongoing topic that you've covered before and certainly will again! And, your explanation is always clear and easy to understand. Here's something that I'm not sure about in terms of how often it is requested. But, every time I watch you especially I wonder about it because I suck at it! What am I talking about? Shooting via the LCD instead of the EVF. I seem to have such a mental block about it which seems silly given that before getting my X-T3 I was shooting with my Pixel 2 XL for a few years! Oh well.... Thanks again for your content. Have a great weekend!
Thanks Rome, few things here to consider
Thank you, Roman!
Roman what's your veiw thoughts on micro 4 3rds
Pl do similar for iPhone as well. I have 15 pro. Would love some great tips
Hi Roman. When were you in Porto? Beautiful photos, especially the ones you took inside the tram. 👌🙂
Great video, as always. Clear, precise, to the point. Thanks! 👌
All good information and insight. You did make me laugh sitting there holding the mic for the entire video. 😊
Excellent video !! Thank you.
Great video. You can also use electronic shutter (as long as the subject isn't moving). I use luminar neo and need to see if it can sharpen edges only.
How do you know when it's time to recalibrate a lens? My 56 drives me nuts, never seems to nail focus. I'm sure I'm also part of the problem but I have my suspicions that something is up with the lens...
My 16-55 was just soft for no reason. I tried everything and it always felt like it slightly missed. At the time it was 3 years old and heavily used - the rubber grip was falling off.... so I sent it in for its first service and mentioned the focusing. It came back with the focusing reset and I noticed an improvement.
gtk@@snapsbyfox
Marvelous video, Roman. Congrats!!!
I might say that all the meanfull topics related to sharpness have been covered through a natural and understandable narrative.
Awesome!
See ya, blue skies 🤙🏻🍀📸
Thanks for the great tips.
Great video Roman. Love your channel mate. really liked the tip regarding using Masking when sharpening. It's something I've not used before as I did not really know what it did. TBH I really never worried much about using the sharpening tool but will do so now on the photos that can benefit from it.
Great video. Very helpful.
Thank you! I needed to see this.
Great Work, do you have any issues with Lightroom I have heard a few times that LR and Fuji qualitywise not the greatest Combo?
Picked up a tip or two for sure. Thankyou
Those are great tips, but I noticed you don't use a lens hood. That's the quickest and cheapest way to improve sharpness. Shading your eyes with your hands (even on a dull day) demonstrates how effective this is--and our eyes are better than any camera lens!
Very helpful tips!
Thanks Roman, i think it's one of the most comprehensive guide on focus I've ever seen. You switch to an XH2? why you ditch the X-T5?
no I still have the XT5. However for travel the XH2 / 2s combo is unbeatable. Specifically in terms of hybrid photo and video work. The XT5 is my light photo only set up
Get a camera with IBIS, even better one that will combine that with any in lens stabilisation (in the M43 world most Olympus and many Panasonic cameras do the job)
Excellent, thank you
Thank you for sharing these tips.
With regards to squarespace, if you post your image without a title, is the image number still in the background for easy access if a person wishes to purchase that image? I understand that your video wasn't about squarespace but I thought I would ask this question anyway. Thank you.
I'm not sure on the question to be honest, can you expand please
@@snapsbyfox When you were talking about squarespace, you showed your images. I was just wondering if a person wanted to purchase one of those images, does that image have the image number in the background so that you can trace that image easily for printing purposes?
hmmm i dont know. I haven’t set anything up although I’m sure it’s possible
Hey! what soft is used at the end video? thanks
Distortion not refraction 👍 also depending on what you are focusing on, a single POV or the general scene or sharp from front to back.
Excellent video as ever. I really need to break my dependence on single shot and try something different and you have inspired me to do so. One thing I would say…as a Fuji user…I run all my ‘keepers’ through the Enhance feature in LR. It takes ages and produces a DNG file but in terms of perceived sharpness - it is like night an day. Give it a go on an unedited RAW and then edit as per normal…
I'll take the advantage of the blurriness :)
It's part of the artistic decision and the image can look better with it.
Right, but the title of this video was "sharp photos..."
@@rikeson1402
it's subjective isn't it ? but I agree with you
Roman I am just starting my photography journey and I wanted to say thank you for all your videos especially in pertaining to shooting with fujifilm as I’ve become smitten with the images they produce. Im hoping to pick up an xt5 or xh2s for Black Friday I just can’t decide between the two haha. Thank you once again and cheers from Los Angeles.
Nice topic, Roman. Pixel peepers like me - an admitted pixel peeper - will always find something NOT sharp. To me, the sharpness is just another attribute that can either add to the image or can be agnostic to the image, depending on your intent. If I'm shooting street photography midday, I'm already at F8/F11 ISO 800 or thereabouts (although shooting ISO auto mostly these days when traveling) or I'm shooting manual and the entire issue is much less a factor. So my expectations are quite different than for example, shooting low light, versus shooting at 5.6 portrait style. At 5.6 I don't tolerate noise or sharpness as well because my expectations are different. In essence, it's all part of the intent.
Great video 😊 thank you 🙏
Roman if i could ask ,what lens are you using in the talking part's of video? Looks great, from colours you grade to isolation woww. Great job.
thx - very useful. Question on shutter speed being 1/ double the focal length of the lens- this needs adjustment for crop, ie 35mm on APS-C = 50mm FF which would then translate into 1/100th min shutter speed ?
I done it for full frame sizes but tbh I roughly do it for crop too. These are very safe numbers and in many cases you can go lower if needs be. Most of the time I'm sitting well above 1/200.
I should have labeled that in hindsight
Sensor size does not correlate to better lowlight performance
top tip - don't have 6 shots of espresso before going out shooting! 😆Great vid as always Roman.
Solid video 🔥
Porto ❤
Sharp tips!
Great video as always. I have one out of topic question. Did you switch from your X-T5 to X-H2 for street ? I remember you talking about smaller size of X-T5 which is nice for street but lately it is X-H2 in your videos so I was just curious.
Nah I still have the XT5 and it is my dedicated photo camera. The XH2 / 2s are my workhorses for both photo and video. For travel they are just more practical
Nice video
As a fellow fuji photographer @an_african_tale, I came into possession of a Q2 this week. Superb, truly. Interested to see you with one in the thumbnail.
Haha it’s not me in the thumbnail
Very good video
Most modern primes are pretty much as sharp as they get by about 1 stop under. So for a 1.4 say f/2. And more generally 5.6 tends to be the best for most lenses 2.8 and faster.
That said all the gear stuff usually not the problem most people are having. Mostly it's shit technique.
I take photos on my cheddar camera and its super sharp
When I look back at all photographs I have taken over many years, those suffering from sharpness issues are due to a shutter speed too slow and the shutter speed chosen being a result from program mode (P) or aperture priority mode where most cameras are notoriously trying to keep the ISO low at the expense of an unsuitable shutter speed.
Spray and pray, spray and pray😂
Are you in OPorto?
For a few days :)
this rain is amazing for street pics!@@snapsbyfox
super Grüße aus Berlin es grüßt der Berliner
I kept on thinking “is he going to eat that cookie or what…”
Nerd…
But passionate. I like it.
hah you didn’t come across real camera nerds yet…
There is a lot of videos on taking sharp photos BUT I would say this is most complete one. By far. I just would have included the sharpness setting in all cameras and the AI help nowadays (ahead of traditional editing), but I fully understand why you didn't.
oh my sharpness setting in the camera is turned way down. Also, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the sharpness setting in camera is for JPEGs... not RAWs.
@@snapsbyfox TRUE! just for JPEGs! But 1) depending on the brand is way different to apply sharpness in post vs. in camera, 2) you can edit with PhotoAI, DxO... in RAW and 3) not all people is shooting in RAW (not all proffesionals or cool kids with plenty of time to edit!).
The discussion of ISO is incomplete here. High ISO with low light is better than low ISO corrected in post. The noise will be much less with proper ISO.
Sharpening won’t sharpen a flat sky, it has no edges unless there’s clouds. You didn’t mention the DOF relationship to sharpness.
Want sharp fotos? Here's how. Dress sharp, look sharp, think sharp, and get a sharp camera. Also don't forget the sharp lens.
Sharpness is overrated. I hate that all lens manufacturers are aiming for their lenses to be as sharp as possible instead of trying to make a lens with a specific rendering, like they used to make. Also if you are noticing that your photo is not sharp enough, it's probably just a boring photo or you are bad at focusing or understanding how to properly use aperture.
I honestly find sharpness overrated. If a photo is compelling it does not need to be crazy sharp. I get the best photos when I am thinking more about composition, moment, light, and colors.
I thought you gonna tell about Leica Q 😅
haha, then finish the video with saying gear doesn't matter
At f.16 or higher, most lenses looses their sharpness.
"...if you have a mid-range camera and lens from the last 5-6 years, you have everything you need to take a perfectly sharp picture..."
*stares at my nearly decade old mid-range DSLR body*
I have phase detect, so I know my old DSLR isn't THAT bad, I still thought it was funny how my cam is almost twice as old as the range they said was "good enough" less than a minute into the video 🤣
oh for sure there are older cameras that are good even older. I used cameras 10 years ago that also gave me perfect sharp results
Interesting video however the thumbnail shows a Leica
I’m not sure what the issue is with that? 😅
@@snapsbyfox nada just hoping to see a sexy Leica
Haha, I don’t have one. I just can’t justify the price. Maybe one day
Leica in the thumbnail lol why do this when you clearly don’t use one?
what difference does it make? I have friends, girlfriend, other cameras etc in the thumbnail before. If this was a video about a specific camera, sure. Also who says I dont use one… 99% of my life is not for the public to see :)
Yeah you don’t use one.
La nitidez arruina la fotografía, porque la hace ver más digital, sin alma.
Yoooo. When holding mics stops being trendy, are you still gonna do it?