Repairing Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner

In today's video we repair a cheap used Bobcat soil conditioner. Prices for used equipment and attachments have skyrocketed over the past few years. Not long ago you could have purchased this attachment for the same price new from the Bobcat dealership. But now that a new unit is approximately $12,000 we had to look at other options. I found this VERY used unit on Facebook classifieds and purchased it for $4,000. I knew it needed some work but not nearly as much as it actually did. In the end we were able to fix everything and make it like new again.
PARTS LIST
Replacement Carbide Teeth
Seal Kit
Bearing (Dodge PN: 124278) $120 ($250/Bobcat)
Seal
(2) New Pins (PN: 7102382) $94.63/each
(2) New Pin Securement Bolts (PN: 17C640) $4.16/each
(2) New Nylock Nuts (PN: 59D6) $3.84/each
(2) Cap (2) Plug Hydraulic $12
TOOLS
Harbor Freight
Hydraulic Punch Driver $100
Pitman Arm Puller $16
10 Ton Short Body $55
Oil Filter Pliers $8
O'Reilly Auto
Pitman Arm Puller $22
Herc Rentals
Magnetic Drill $75
Home Depot
Air Hammer $50
Milwaukee M18 Band Saw $330
Other
Sander Flap $8
LABOR HOURS
TOTAL:
Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe.
Video Produced by Thrifty Garage (Please Subscribe!)
/ thriftygarage
Find us on Facebook (Share!)
/ thrifty-garage-1571631...
Connect on Instagram (DM me!)
/ thrifty_garage
As Always, Thanks for Watching!
- TG (Thrifty Garage)
Business Inquiries:
2401 E. 32nd Street, 10-248
Joplin, MO 64804-3177
[e-mail]
#TG #thriftygarage
soil conditioner repair 61
USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner65
Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner 66
Fixing MY Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner61
Fixing Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner 60
Repairing Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner 65
Repairing Cheap USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner - LOTS OF WORK! 59
Broken Bobcat Soil Conditioner - NEEDS LOTS OF WORK! 44
Broken Bobcat Soil Conditioner - NEEDS WORK! 42
Repairing $4,000 USED Bobcat Soil Conditioner
Replacing carbide teeth
how to cut off carbide teeth
diablo diamond metal cutoff wheel

[@BabyyTori]

any chances you have pictures of how the motor is assemble and drives the drum? I'm in the process of building one and decided to go from chain to direct drive and can't figure out how the motor and bearing should be setup without sticking way out the side

[@arnoldromppai5395]

Why would you even think of chain drive.. that would really hold up in the dirt. There all direct drive. It nothing to it to set up a sqare block bearing an motor. But you need the right type of motor.

[@arnoldromppai5395]

You didnt need any new tools if you knew what your doing an you wouldnt need new pins. A simple 3/4" shaft with a long handle welded on it and a 20lb sleg hammer and a 2nd person to hold the handle on the pin driver. 20 min they both be out. But it take heavey eqipment Experience

[@davidschmidt8399]

It doesn't look like you know much about taking out pins. would be a 2 hour job at most even with them as tight as they were. also when putting in pins or bushings if real tight throw them in Freezer for a day they will shrink just a hair before they warm up.

[@ThriftyGarage]

You are right, I'm no expert in pin removal. I'm sure somebody more vetted could have done it faster. But the pins probably hadn't moved in 20 years. They were rusted in place. Having two flanges didn't help either. Like you said I'm sure there was an easier way to do it than what I did.

[@arnoldromppai5395]

All you so called u tube pro do thing the hardest way posible. Air arc blow them carbid teeth off clean in 3 seconds. I have not watched past your first grind but ill bet you weld them on with a mig.. mig an carbid
dont mix. 3/32 7018 or 8018 only..
Lol omg a tiny punch to fail at driving a 1" pin out. Any time you need to drive a pin out .. find a pin one size smaller longer then the pin to come out. 2" from one end weld a 3/4" pipe or shaft on to form an L as a handle 2' long. Drive the pin out with a 20lb sleg hammer. In your case a 3/4" shaft.

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

Carson, super job of showing this repair. Thanks for documenting your epic struggle with the pins.
I could feel your pain. When I was about 14, I helped dad do a repair on a sickle bar hay mower. The most time consuming task was replacing the triangle cutter blades.
They were held on with 1/4” rivets. The only way to take them off was to cut the button heads off with a cold chisel. My dad could hit them about four times and pop them right off. He handed me the chisel and sledgehammer. It took me a dozen or so strikes to cut one off.
He left me to it and went over to work on the Pittman arm bearing. After a few minutes, I missed the chisel and hit my thumb. It was a glancing blow but still, hurt enough that I screamed.
He knew what had happened and came over to take a look. It wasn’t bleeding or broken. However, it was numb and apparent that it would leave a bruise. Then he bestowed upon me a bit if wisdom… it came to mind immediately when I saw you crunch your thumb.
He said, “Son, when your arm gets tired from swinging the hammer… quit aiming it at your thumb!”
Carson, that was way back in about 1967, I still think that he might have been into something!
Good luck with the rake, I hope it holds up for years to come.

[@timinator1973]

Any tips on how you fixed the leak on the motor? I've got one apart and getting ready to weld up the worn shaft where the two seals ride and turn it back down to get a better surface for them to seal against. Do you happen to know what diameter that part of the shaft is? I'm getting 2.738" with a micrometer but am wondering if it should possibly be a thousandth or two larger. It's got a fairly good amount of uneven wear. I've got the two seal part numbers. 6676913 and 6676915. Any chance you found the inner seal '13 cheaper that $100? The outer one is cheap at $20 or so.

[@ThriftyGarage]

I think this was the part number 6664815 Oil Seal $15.69+$25 Freight. We had to remove the splines from the motor.

[@bigds6692]

Bummer about the thumb! That looks like a fun piece of equipment to use! Nice repair!

[@ClinttheGreat]

I would have welded a steel rod or grade 8 bolt to the side you were hammering on, then you could have used a bigger sledgehammer to beat on it. Heat would have helped as well. Check out Andrew Camarata's channel, if you already haven't. He has all kinds of issues w/ pins, bolts, etc. and he has a some good methods to get them out.
Enjoyed the video.

[@ThriftyGarage]

That’s a good idea! 👍 Andrew has some great videos and is very resourceful and persistent.