Hi dan! this is wade from the silver creek youtube channel. I just want to say thank you so very much for all your videos, they are so helpful. I have bought a fleet of intermountain 4750s to patch as well, and i cant even begin to describe how much your videos are helping, you truly are a master!! keep them coming please, and thanks again!!
You get the luxury of seeing this in 30 minutes. This actual car took about 3 weeks to do working off an on, maybe about 16 hours total. That is honestly nothing, some of my cars can take upwards of 25 to 30 or 40 hours. Locos are even worse!
I am in England and want to start building a US Railroad layout. Is there a web page that i can find with photographs of North American Railroad stock? I want to make sure i am weathering them accuratly but most importantly buying the correct wagons and loco's?
In some cases, yes! If there are finger prints or residues, you want to carefully scrub the model with a toothbrush and some soap and water. I'm very careful to only scrub the parts I need to clean and am careful around fine details! This is especially important on locomotives. I will always take the shell off as not to get water on electronics or the motor. I clean the wheels, truck frames, and fuel tank to remove factory grease or finger prints in most cases.
Regular oils that I have used in the past take WAY longer to dry then water mixable. The water mixable oils work well with thinner, especially over time as the oil begins to dry and become more like a paste. Trying to continue to mix them with water over time becomes more difficult. The thinner trick works very well for model application and it is preferred by many other expert modelers.
I have recently gotten into the detailing and weathering of my rolling stock and locomotives. I am wondering how you measure your reflective tape for the stripes, is there a cheat sheet online?
Maybe there are measurements somewhere, but I do mine by eye. On a hopper like this, you can get the length of the stripes by comparing against the distance between the car's ribs and cut the width so it looks in the right proportion.
Hey, I just found your channel! Great Video!
Hi dan! this is wade from the silver creek youtube channel. I just want to say thank you so very much for all your videos, they are so helpful. I have bought a fleet of intermountain 4750s to patch as well, and i cant even begin to describe how much your videos are helping, you truly are a master!! keep them coming please, and thanks again!!
wow! thats very nice.... thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing the name of the hobby shop in Canada 🇨🇦 😀
Very cool weathering video! Cant wait to see more!
Nice Dan.
Well done indeed.
Top video !
So can you really do that in 30 minutes??
🤣🤣🤣Just kidding!!! Well done, Dan!!!
You get the luxury of seeing this in 30 minutes. This actual car took about 3 weeks to do working off an on, maybe about 16 hours total. That is honestly nothing, some of my cars can take upwards of 25 to 30 or 40 hours. Locos are even worse!
@@DansRailroad2011 was just giving you crap. I knew someone would ask, seriously... And yeah...it doesn't work like that..
😊
Did you use any clear before starting or when you completely finished the car?
Hey Dan, question, those yellow marker on the sides, what kind of tape do you use for that? Detailing tape?
How did you gix that bowed-up roof walk? I bought a bunch of InterMountain 4750s this week and one of them has a badly bowed roof walk.
Have you ever used pan pastels? If you have how do you feel about how they work?
I never have but they are basically just like weathering powders.
@@DansRailroad2011 In some ways yes and in some ways no.
Hi Dan Did you Dullcoat the car before your initial fade coat, or did you apply the fade coat straight over the factory paint? Thanks
I think he dullcoats first.
What tip size do you use on your Air Brushes for weathering?
I am in England and want to start building a US Railroad layout. Is there a web page that i can find with photographs of North American Railroad stock? I want to make sure i am weathering them accuratly but most importantly buying the correct wagons and loco's?
RR picture archives.
Great video Dan Love the how to step by step ones! Do you find it necessary to wash or clean your cars before you start the weathering process? Thanks
Having trouble finding your Instagram can you spell it out ? thanks man!
@@1610nsb dan e dankenson.
In some cases, yes! If there are finger prints or residues, you want to carefully scrub the model with a toothbrush and some soap and water. I'm very careful to only scrub the parts I need to clean and am careful around fine details! This is especially important on locomotives. I will always take the shell off as not to get water on electronics or the motor. I clean the wheels, truck frames, and fuel tank to remove factory grease or finger prints in most cases.
Why do you use water based oils and not regular oil paint for the rust wash? What is the “thinner” for the water based oil paint?
Regular oils that I have used in the past take WAY longer to dry then water mixable. The water mixable oils work well with thinner, especially over time as the oil begins to dry and become more like a paste. Trying to continue to mix them with water over time becomes more difficult. The thinner trick works very well for model application and it is preferred by many other expert modelers.
I have recently gotten into the detailing and weathering of my rolling stock and locomotives. I am wondering how you measure your reflective tape for the stripes, is there a cheat sheet online?
Maybe there are measurements somewhere, but I do mine by eye. On a hopper like this, you can get the length of the stripes by comparing against the distance between the car's ribs and cut the width so it looks in the right proportion.
You definitely have enough prototype photos with what I have shared and what is on websites to do a 100 car salt train lol
I have a books worth of prototype photos, and i'm always gathering more!