4R44E 4R55E 5R55E Disassembly
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2021
- 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
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Thanks so much for the video. I was able to rebuild my 5R55E, for my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT. Great learning experience.. thank you for explaining everything in detail!!
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
Thanks for these 5r55e videos of disassembly and assembly. I live in the really provincial hole in Russia and my Ford's Ranger USDM transmission failed. Here it's hard to find a proper service, so I'm planning to do some repair by myself. Hope, my mechanical engineer education will help :)
Hope it helps. I'm sure your background will help. Thanks for watching.
Wow and this was posted just RECENTLY! Definitely subscribing! Keep up the great content! Would like to hear you speak more, but if you kept up just as is it would be fine too 🤷♂️
Thank you! Will do!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission since I got your attention I just bought my first truck! 1996 FORD RANGER! So any content with anything bout that would be watched and shared 😎
I have a few. I have most of them broken up into playlists so they should be easier to find. If you are needing Ford stuff just go to the Ford playlist, Chevy go to Chevy. If it is used in more than 1 application I try and remember to put it in both, sometimes I screw up, but it is a work in progress. It can be tough getting this all done on my own with the limited time I can devote to it and the lack of knowledge about photography and such.
I used to own a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 V6 with the 4r55e transmission and it kept breaking the flexplates around the crank hub. Even after replacing the torque converter twice. A transmission shop I paid did the flexplate and torque converter change and replaced three flexplates, once with torque converter. I changed the last one myself and the flexplate, it broke down on me three months later. I am thinking it was the pump or something else inside of the transmission. I was going 75 mph steadily and started going up a 1%-10% grade near the small town of Navajo Arizona when the flexplate snapped that I installed with a new torque converter. I abandoned the truck and the local tow shop towed it to there yard. The next time I passed by we as three years later and I gave him a guy named Darryl the keys, remote, and the titled signed with his name as the buyer. 🙄 I wish I had AAA towing, the closest towing shop wanted $100 to tow the truck one mile.
I would bet that it has a bad crankshaft.
@ 12:45ish or so...
I wholeheartedly concur with your assessment my good man and I do thank you for "heads up" regarding one NOT losing their nut(s)!
Worn or aged shaft fitments I believe the rest of it went.
Nonetheless, kudos for the nudge.
Watch your nuts!
Thanks for watching.
How much fluid would come out if I swapped the servo and covers while the trans is on the truck?
Probably a quart or so.
Does the band drum rotate counter clockwise or clock wise? Putting one back together and could've swore it rotated counter clockwise but it rotates clockwise
Reverse, clockwise. O/D, hold planet, ring gear turns counterclockwise
Changed the plate and valve body. It gained a 1-2 shift but no 3 or 4. I think that the band could have come loose when I changed the valve body but reverse is fine and it is applied when it is in reverse so since reverse works I don't know that it is off. I am just going to pull it and start over tomorrow.
The band is only on in 2nd and 4th. Reverse is the low/ reverse and the reverse inputs. Are you sure it is shifting 1-2 and not maybe 1-3? Do you pull the capsule out of the case? Maybe you forgot to plug the case. If you haven't pull the capsule out and plug it. That would leave a problem with the input drum, pump or valve body. If it is 1-3 that would be a problem with the band, servo or valve body.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission nope. Didn't pull it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I burned the original transmission up really bad. This one was a new gm unit that was put in a customers vehicle and we sent my old one back and kept this one. Same thing it was doing in the vehicle that it was pulled out of. Only shifting from 1-2. When I pulled it down I found the usual 3-4 clutch pack burned up as they do and a burned up band. I replaced that stuff but added the things that I told you about. Now the only things left in the unit is the 500 boost valve, extra wide band,a Zpac,and those accumulator piston turned like I told you about. I hope that I didn't burn up that Zpac.
Also a Corvette servo. When I put the servo in using the gold shim in the shift kit it made the band too tight. I read in the instructions that if it did to leave it out which I did. That made the input shaft turn normal with the hand.
Is it ok to put a plug in from the bottom of the case to block that capsule? I know people who have done it but I don't want to make a bad situation worse if it will.
Love your videos! I have a 5r55e that the reluctor for the turbine speed sensor sheered off, which caused a p0715 code. Have you seen or heard of this before? I can’t figure out what caused the failure unless it was just metal fatigue because of the high mileage 250k 🤷♂️
Thanks. Does happen. Very rare. If it is not all messed up you can weld it on. Gap between the sensor and the tone ring is supposed to be .025-.072. Easier to just buy a planet. Usually the brass washers are coming out of it anyways, that is very common.
Thanks for getting back to me! On closer inspection, that area on the planetary where the reluctor is welded, about 3/4” down from the welds are 2 sets of notches where it appears the clutches wore into it? I’m replacing the whole planetary but I’m afraid it will happen again if I’m missing something.
@@russellmccarty4287 It's centered up by the bushing in the overdrive drum and the bearing in the output shaft. I would replace the bushing in the drum.
@@russellmccarty4287 Replace the sprag also.
Thank you so much for your help! It’s really great that you are sharing your knowledge, you’d make an excellent teacher.
I took my 4r44e apart yesterday, forward drum had the first few cluches and plates almost weld together. Chewed up the gear that fits inside the forward drum,too . The planetary with the ring gear was also missing some brass washers, but is that all it takes to call it bad?? Why did you scrap yours? Also a bit confused about the servos. I have two AB's but each with different springs. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Got most of what I needed to rebuild tomorrow.
I think you are talking about the overdrive planet. Yes, they are bad about the brass shims coming out and should be replaced. AB servo's are good, just make sure the apply levers are at least C's. A is best. Lighter spring goes in the overdrive, front servo.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Awesome, both levers were A's. I finished most of the assembly except for the valve body, gonna clean it up and see if I can get a shift kit. The only hiccup I got was I forgot to install that little black oil cone. Doesn't seem too critical.
Im thinking about rebuilding my ranger tranny myself im mechanicaly inclined but nervous about transmission so ill study these vids and others wish me luck .
Is there a rebuild manual by chance?
ATSG and ATRA both have one. Links are in the description. Then go to the bookstore tab. Wishing you success!
hi! I know you posted this 3 years ago, I’m currently rebuilding my 4r44e in my 96 ranger, how could you tell that the overdrive sprag was bad? I know the planet was bad because of the washers, but what about the sprag made it bad?
They have a high failure rate. If it is siezed up or turns both directions it is bad. the sprag itself, the center hub and the planet will all be bad.
Hello, I have a question if you have the time. I have a 2000 ranger 4r44e and it went out. I was given a 2005 ranger 5r44e. Will I be able to use this transmission? They look identical except the two extra sensors on the 5r. Thank you in advance!
Pull the rear speed sensor out and look at the sensor ring. If it is the same and the torque converter stall is the same it should work. You can tell the stall of the converter by the little dimples on the side torwards the hub. If they all lay at the same angle then the stall is the same. If it is different just get one that is for your engine and it will work. What makes it a 5 speed instead of 4 speed is the computer strategy. So it will still only have 4 gears in your vehicle. The 5 speed has beefier planets in it, so it would be an upgrade there.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for responding! My 4r44e doesn’t have the rear speed sensor, just the main harness and the gear select harness. It’s out of a 2000. Do you think that can be an issue?
Thanks for the video. I have a 96 Explorer, it has a long delay (About 10 seconds) in reverse at cold starts. It sometimes blinks the O/D Off light. The codes are "Reverse Engagement Error" and "Pressure Selonoid Low Pressure". It has no issues on forward gears, only reverse on the first engagement at cold start. I replaced the reverse servo o rings, EPC solenoid and applied Trans go shift kit but had no effect on this issue. What might be the problem?
Try putting a .218 ball between the reverse modulation valve and it's spring. Also try leaving out the #2 check ball. It is just to the right of that valve line up (as you have the bore plug facing you).
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for the reply, i will try that. I have one more question. Before i applied the shift kit, it had a delay from 2 to 3. Now after the shift kit it, 2 to 3 delay is gone, but it started to delay from 3 to 2. I replaced the Epc at the same time, but with a red one, the original was green. I ordered a green one but cobra transmission sent a red one, and said i can use the red one with the shift kit. Do you have any idea why 3 to 2 delay have occured?
Do not drive it anymore with that EPC on there. You can not swap them out. You will end up burning the forward clutches out of it. Get the right one on there and see how it is working and we will go from there. 2 totally different computer strategies at work there and they do not swap.
I lost reverse recently, it ended up being a warp in the valve body and some retarted solenoids
Where are you located? I have an 03 Ford explorer with a 5r 55 s. Is slipping a little bit in drive but not in number one or number two.
I would say you either have a mis-adjusted shifter cable or an overdrive sprag that is failing.
How do you get the drift pin out of the case so you can replace the selector shaft seal ?
Sorry I took so long to respond to this, I had responded to this and submitted it, so don't know why it did not post it but it just showed up in my feed again. So we will see if it posts this time. I use a pair of wire cutters to grab ahold of it and leverage it out, this does not always work, it is very hard to get it out. Most of the time I use a small pocket screwdriver to pry out the seal without removing the linkage. If you want to see that watch the rebuild video.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks. Some trans seem to have an oval recess, but mine has a single 1/4" round hole too small to get into. I carefully opened it up with a carbide cutter just enough to grab with diagonal cutters. Thanks for the tip on the screwdriver.
I have a 96 ranger and notices that my rear ring gear did not have the needle bearing or the bearing on the inside of it, is it supposed to be like that? I’m pretty sure it’s a 4r44e
There are different versions of the parts. If you will post a picture of what you have on my Instagram I will let you know how it is supposed to be.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I sent you a message
How do I tell the color of the solenoid? Red or green? I recently put in a valve body with new solenoids, worked for a month, then started slipping big time. First gear, second and third too
Either pull the solenoid out or pull the separator plate off and look down at the snout. I believe it was 97 that they went to red. Earlier than that is green. You will be pulling it out to fix it. Burns forward clutches bad. If it is wrong just swap out the EPC and it will be fine once you fix the burned clutches.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission is there another way to tell which solenoid I need? The transmission was swapped out from a 4r44e to a 4r55e. So I’m not sure which solenoid
The only way to tell which one you have is to pull the solenoid out and look at it or to pull the separator plate off and look down in there. As far as which one you need, it goes by year. 1997 and up use red, earlier uses green.
Can you put this in a Foxbody 5.0? The 96-97 & the 2000's and up?
No, you wouldn't want to even if you could, would not hold up. You will want to go with a 4R70W.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks 👍
How can I distinguish a 4r from a 5R?
5R has an extra clutch in each pack and more pinions in the planets. What makes it a 5 speed is the computer strategy. That is why I lumped them all together
I hate to ask you for anything.. I know youtube is not paying you anything yet.. but.. could you do a video on checking clearances..with a dial gauge.. not with a feeler gauge on a drum but like output or input shaft play. . you tube has no videos on that. at least not with transmission. just with backlash on rear ends only..
See what I can do. There is a video I am checking clearances in a drum, don't remember which one, think it is a Dodge A604. Don't remember for sure.
How much would y’all charge to rebuild one?
Depends on the amount of damage it has. Never know what you got till you get in there.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission well, I don’t think it’s too bad. But it did belong to a couple college students before me, so who knows lol. Are y’all located in VA?
You never know till you get in there. Nope, go here for help finding a shop. www.atra.com/ShopFinder