It's not able to anticipate the pick-up impulse. It can only react to the impulse. Setting full advance at idle allows the unit to "see" the impulse and then delay the the switching of the coil primary according to the selected parameters. Nice unit. Too bad I already bought my MSD!
How about using a Vacume gauge to determin proper timing by setting it at the highest vac mark ? I was told to do this by an old timer and it seem's to work well on the pre computer stuff .
Whats the best way to hunt max total timing when testing? Will it just stop making power? I don’t want to detonate or pre ignite. I want to be able to identify easily. I am going to be using a msd 6al 2 programmable and locking out mechanical.
its kind of test and tune but most HP engines on the street will like more initial than mechanical.. and they like it all in at right around 2000- to 3000 RPM its just playing with it on a dyno really until it stops making power. if initial is too high it will kick back on the starter. Just make sure if you have a non stock engine you get a higher torque starter for that application. one that will turn over your engine with the compression you have because you dont want to be trying to turn over an aftermarket 11:1 engine if thats not what the stock starter was meant for
mrhazel Thanks. Yeah im interested in getting my exhaust and wideband installed and fine tuning the jets on the dyno. I guess we can figure it out then. I have a high torque mini starter because of headers. My compression is 9.5:1 and dynamic is around 8:1 with the cam. The MSD has a start feature that retards timing on startup then puts it back to your preset.
@@Dodgechallengersixpack yeah thats why I want an MSD e curve when I redo my 302. Gets you all the timing options you could want or need without the need of a CD box
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks.
OK, I've got a digital E-Curve dist, both pots are set to 0 right now, redline to 7000 rpm and I've got no spark at all. My dad passed away before finishing the car, but it drove twice for about 7-8 miles, now 0 spark at all and it won't start. Any help would be appreciated! I feel like something is wrong with the distributor. Also has an MSD Blaster 2 coil.
Hope you got an answer before now, but it may simply be that your power supply wire to the distributor is dead. Check any applicable fuses and wires and best of luck to you.
I haven't. Fuses are fine, power supply wire is brand new, coil is getting power when the ignition is on. I think it's the board on the distributor. I've read about others having the same issues too. Two messages sent to MSD and no response.
No she isn't. The distributor only has about 5 miles on it though. The car was never finished, only driven once, and started a few times to move around the garage. Before my dad passed away I promised I'd finish it for him, so I need to get it running. It's a '32 Ford Graffiti coupe. The cap was off of it when I got it, so I know he was already trying to troubleshoot it. In his time he probably bought like 35 MSD distributors for all the cars he built. I feel since this one failed with so little use, that they kind of owe me/him one.
Ok, bare with me here. An old mechanical distributor, 10 degrees Initial, 24 Mechanical for 34 degrees total at ~3,000 engine RPM at Wide Open Throttle and with NO Vacuum Advance. But, at say 60 mph strait level steady state speed "floating" cruise, at 3,000 engine RPM, then the same 10 degrees initial plus the 24 degrees Mechanical for that 34 degrees Total *PLUS* 15 more Degrees Vacuum Advance, so *ALL THREE TOTAL are 49 TOTAL DEGREES.* So... Lock-Out the E-Curve, set TOTAL Timing to 49 Degrees, then set the E-Curve Switches to the desired Curves. ? Does the Locked-Out Total Advance one must set it to *INCLUDE all 3, Initial, "Mechanical", and Vacuum, **_OR_** only *2 things*, Initial plus "Mechanical"* ??? Thank You Kevin.
dont set it to 49 total. set it to the 34 and use the chart to pick which vacuum advance curve is in it so the dials are set to either 3-4 or 7-4 depending on vacuum levels but you figured it out by now i hope
Glad to see a recent comment here. I installed an E-Curve on a Mustang 289 V8, probably about 15 years ago. I think a mechanic I took the car to recently may have tried to adjust the timing without knowing how. I will be double-checking all the settings, including total timing, initial and advance. And I do have vaccum attached. Wish me luck, this is not something I do regularly, but I think I have enough understanding to tackle it. I just recently bought a timing light that I'll be using.
@@dannycastaneda1974 Hello. It will be interesting to see what it takes once revisited again in 2024. Old analog mechanical stuff adds advance by mechanically moving parts Forward of the direction of rotation. In the electronic distributor there are no moving mechanical parts other than the main shaft spins, correct ? So the Trip Point relative to crank position is fixed. And the electronics can't "see the future", so they must TAKE OUT advance and let it back in judiciously, rather than "adding it" or moving the fire point FORWARD relative to crankshaft location, does that make sense ? So set dip switches fully disabling all mechanical and vacuum advance in the electronics, get then engine running and using a timing light set the desired total max combined advance of initial + mechanical + Vacuum. Turn off motor. Open Distributor and set Dip Switches for the desired Mechanical and Vacuum Curves. Re-install Cap. Re-start engine, conform settings ?... Wonder if it works this way, it did on the one I did, iirc. Look forward to finding out what you find, and just how bad my memory might be.
@@KingJT80 I just re-visited the E-Curve Instructions, and it says 2 different things in 2 different places LOL, one place says include vacuum, and the other says do not, LOL which I could post an image ...
@olsketchmo I thought so, too. But after revisiting the instructions, here are the two statements i found. "This means that you have to set the distributor at the highest, or Total, amount of advance that you want to achieve (including vacuum advance) and compensate with one of the selectable ignition curves (shown on page 4). " "Total Timing: This is the total amount of timing that the engine will achieve. This is the amount that all of the electronic curve and settings will be based from. This setting also includes any amount of vacuum advance that you plan to use." In the "Setting Up The Distributor" section, there is no mention of total timing.
Great instructional video, even for novices. Straightforward, clear and concise. Thanks a lot!
Awesome explanation!
Thank you sir!
Setting initial timing with a vacuum gauge is a good way to go.
Thanks for the background! I'm trying to set the curve right now with the springs and stops. Super helpful!
Excellent video, very well and patiently explained, thank you very much.
It's not able to anticipate the pick-up impulse. It can only react to the impulse. Setting full advance at idle allows the unit to "see" the impulse and then delay the the switching of the coil primary according to the selected parameters.
Nice unit. Too bad I already bought my MSD!
How about using a Vacume gauge to determin proper timing by setting it at the highest vac mark ? I was told to do this by an old timer and it seem's to work well on the pre computer stuff .
Whats the best way to hunt max total timing when testing? Will it just stop making power? I don’t want to detonate or pre ignite. I want to be able to identify easily. I am going to be using a msd 6al 2 programmable and locking out mechanical.
its kind of test and tune but most HP engines on the street will like more initial than mechanical.. and they like it all in at right around 2000- to 3000 RPM its just playing with it on a dyno really until it stops making power. if initial is too high it will kick back on the starter. Just make sure if you have a non stock engine you get a higher torque starter for that application. one that will turn over your engine with the compression you have because you dont want to be trying to turn over an aftermarket 11:1 engine if thats not what the stock starter was meant for
mrhazel Thanks. Yeah im interested in getting my exhaust and wideband installed and fine tuning the jets on the dyno. I guess we can figure it out then.
I have a high torque mini starter because of headers. My compression is 9.5:1 and dynamic is around 8:1 with the cam. The MSD has a start feature that retards timing on startup then puts it back to your preset.
@@Dodgechallengersixpack yeah thats why I want an MSD e curve when I redo my 302. Gets you all the timing options you could want or need without the need of a CD box
Thanks a lot dude
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks.
OK, I've got a digital E-Curve dist, both pots are set to 0 right now, redline to 7000 rpm and I've got no spark at all. My dad passed away before finishing the car, but it drove twice for about 7-8 miles, now 0 spark at all and it won't start. Any help would be appreciated! I feel like something is wrong with the distributor. Also has an MSD Blaster 2 coil.
Hope you got an answer before now, but it may simply be that your power supply wire to the distributor is dead. Check any applicable fuses and wires and best of luck to you.
I haven't. Fuses are fine, power supply wire is brand new, coil is getting power when the ignition is on. I think it's the board on the distributor. I've read about others having the same issues too. Two messages sent to MSD and no response.
But thanks for the tip.
So she isn't perhaps still under warranty?
No she isn't. The distributor only has about 5 miles on it though. The car was never finished, only driven once, and started a few times to move around the garage. Before my dad passed away I promised I'd finish it for him, so I need to get it running. It's a '32 Ford Graffiti coupe. The cap was off of it when I got it, so I know he was already trying to troubleshoot it. In his time he probably bought like 35 MSD distributors for all the cars he built. I feel since this one failed with so little use, that they kind of owe me/him one.
Is it 1-7 on switch 1 @1 and switch 2@ 7?
Whoaaaa
Why not make a video that goes from 5:57 and on. For some of us? Pleese. I'll even bother to watch.
Ok, bare with me here. An old mechanical distributor, 10 degrees Initial, 24 Mechanical for 34 degrees total at ~3,000 engine RPM at Wide Open Throttle and with NO Vacuum Advance. But, at say 60 mph strait level steady state speed "floating" cruise, at 3,000 engine RPM, then the same 10 degrees initial plus the 24 degrees Mechanical for that 34 degrees Total *PLUS* 15 more Degrees Vacuum Advance, so *ALL THREE TOTAL are 49 TOTAL DEGREES.* So... Lock-Out the E-Curve, set TOTAL Timing to 49 Degrees, then set the E-Curve Switches to the desired Curves. ? Does the Locked-Out Total Advance one must set it to *INCLUDE all 3, Initial, "Mechanical", and Vacuum, **_OR_** only *2 things*, Initial plus "Mechanical"* ??? Thank You Kevin.
dont set it to 49 total. set it to the 34 and use the chart to pick which vacuum advance curve is in it
so the dials are set to either 3-4 or 7-4 depending on vacuum levels
but you figured it out by now i hope
Glad to see a recent comment here.
I installed an E-Curve on a Mustang 289 V8, probably about 15 years ago. I think a mechanic I took the car to recently may have tried to adjust the timing without knowing how. I will be double-checking all the settings, including total timing, initial and advance. And I do have vaccum attached.
Wish me luck, this is not something I do regularly, but I think I have enough understanding to tackle it. I just recently bought a timing light that I'll be using.
@@dannycastaneda1974 Hello. It will be interesting to see what it takes once revisited again in 2024. Old analog mechanical stuff adds advance by mechanically moving parts Forward of the direction of rotation. In the electronic distributor there are no moving mechanical parts other than the main shaft spins, correct ? So the Trip Point relative to crank position is fixed. And the electronics can't "see the future", so they must TAKE OUT advance and let it back in judiciously, rather than "adding it" or moving the fire point FORWARD relative to crankshaft location, does that make sense ? So set dip switches fully disabling all mechanical and vacuum advance in the electronics, get then engine running and using a timing light set the desired total max combined advance of initial + mechanical + Vacuum. Turn off motor. Open Distributor and set Dip Switches for the desired Mechanical and Vacuum Curves. Re-install Cap. Re-start engine, conform settings ?... Wonder if it works this way, it did on the one I did, iirc. Look forward to finding out what you find, and just how bad my memory might be.
@@KingJT80 I just re-visited the E-Curve Instructions, and it says 2 different things in 2 different places LOL, one place says include vacuum, and the other says do not, LOL which I could post an image ...
@olsketchmo
I thought so, too. But after revisiting the instructions, here are the two statements i found.
"This means that you have to set the distributor at the highest, or Total, amount of advance that you want to achieve (including vacuum advance) and
compensate with one of the selectable ignition curves (shown on page 4). "
"Total Timing: This is the total amount of timing that the engine will achieve. This is the amount that
all of the electronic curve and settings will be based from. This setting also includes any amount of
vacuum advance that you plan to use."
In the "Setting Up The Distributor" section, there is no mention of total timing.