I have watched a few videos now from various people (all good and thanks to everyone). This is the best one, because explains better how the handbrake part works. I opened mine up on an old car just bought and the lever thing that moves the shoes is missing, so I'm pleased to have been able to see the inside and how it fits together. Thanks a lot :)
Just stripped down and got as far as replacing the shoes on nearside. You made putting the springs on far easier than I found it. After 2 hours I've had enough for today😅. I did the same job on an MGZT years ago, Im sure it was easier though perhaps my memory is forgetting the true horror of swearing, dirt and cut fingers.Thanks for your excellent vid.
Glad it helped and if it helps more I struggled a lot more on the other side. There are a few other videos of the same job on YT so it might be worth watching them for tips too.
Working with springs on a brake shoes is difficult. I used to do them years ago when I first started driving. I could do them and then I will need to read the shop manual again as the time interval could be a few years between working on drum brakes. I would forget how. The first side might take me at least an hour to do and the other will take maybe 15 minutes.
This is one of the first major DIY jobs I did on my 2004 C Class. A very satisfying job. I bounced around a few RUclipsrs before bravely going forth. Having the right tools is the biggest part of getting it done right. Not having any mechanical background doesn't help, so sometimes, if the job looks too complicated or is likely to make the Car unroadworthy, it's straight to the mechanic. My next task is the MAF sensor on the M271 Compressor, which on every other engine is a breeze, but this one is a pain in the a$$, and while I'm at it cleaning the throttle body, and then (if I get lucky and brave) the Valve Cover gasket as they are all seemingly related in processes.
You're braver than me as my next plan is to sell the car. 🥲 It has almost 150k miles and I fear the auto gearbox will need attention soon. It has already been serviced with new fluids a couple of years ago but I think the sensors may be on their last legs. I love the car but it's not worth spending that kind of money on.
Thanks for sharing the reality of this job. I'm just about to tackle the handbrake shoes on a vito, so this has pre-warned me. Others make it look too easy.
It makes sense to watch all the info you can get before starting and it might be as easy as others make it look but if the brake disc won't pull off you now know why. I did the same job on a Sprinter van and it is pretty much the same only a bit bigger.
Thanks alot! I just did my brakes and like you said noone ever mentions the brake shoes as part of the job. I'll have to replace them too soon now that I know what's back there
The 7mm hex is standard for ATE brake systems, you'll find that on BMWs, Volvos, and probably many more as well. Same with the drum brake inside the disc.
I haven't worked on many similar systems before. The MGF and Audi A3 I worked on had a lever to operate the caliper. Mind it was a pain too as it seized.
How do you adjust foot lever for the handbrake to put more tension on it I have fitted new shoes and just to them as you have done with brand new disks and brand new shoes but on a steep hill it's still rolls so I think there's not enough full from the foot pedal
@@alibro7512 my mot failed due to this crap handbrake. Alhamdulillah its passed today. But its still not great on a hill. Any idea where the adjustment screw is, in older c class it under the seat I wonder if this w212 behind the exhaust
The adjusting crowned wheel (COG) must be installed as follows: The correct sense of tighten it will correspond to make it shorter, this will release the tension between the shoes.
The first thing to do is to release the cables tension on the Tensioner assembly where the action of the Parking brake pedal is actioning both sides of the car. The Tensioner assembly is under the rear seat at a central position of the car. Some cars have it under the car body. For that we must rotate an Allen screw clockwise until a gear get latched. And at the end of the work on both wheels this mechanism must be reset. There is a nice video (in russian or ukrainian ) related to a W210 model.
@@alibro7512 did you put the car in neutral with caliper on? I have the caliper off but I’m afraid to step on the brake pedal to put the car is neutral I’m scared that my ruin the piston
@hammad40 If you pull up the gear change gaiter there is a lever to let you put the car in neutral if the engine doesn't start. Plenty of YT videos to show how. Don't touch the brake with the caliper off.
I guess if you cannot wind back the shoes then forcing it off with crowbars or whatever is your only choice. Are you sure the parking brake is fully released?
Did my yesterday, horrible job, had to replace the backing plate as spring retaining slots corroded so would not hold the spring in place. After many attempts of getting the large spring on on the shoes I managed to put the spring on the shoes before putting them in place and then levering them into position. Whole job took longer than I thought about 5 hours! You mentioned they self adjust how does that happen?
Well done for persisting with it. I believe the toothed pawl adjuster thing turns as the pads wear and is held in place by the spring pushing against it. If you don't adjust it to be close after refitting the disks it might eventually adjust itself but would take a while.
Clean the hub centering ring with a wire brush - then the disk will come off. They're usually stuck on rust. You can also release the adjuster ( ccw ) and use 2 screws to push the disk out.
@@alibro7512 I understand. I never saw that degree of wear on the drums - enough to get the shoes stuck in it. Usually I struggle with the rust on the hub. BMW service manual says you should run the car for 500m with the hand brake SLIGHTY on afterwards. One thing worth mentioning is that one should grease the hub center ring with NIKEL antisize ( not copper ! ) as that is where the wheel centers on. Great job by the way !
@@sorinal1234 Thanks, I understand what you mean, I once struggled to remove a front disk so much (because of the rust you're talking about) I eventually decided to cut it off with a grinder. I cut through one side and hammered a chisel into the slot to widen it. Worked a treat and it was off in minutes after spending an hour or more struggling. 🤣
Hello Ali, Even though I replaced the parking brake pads with new ones in my Mercedes Vito W639 and made this adjustment, the parking brake does not work. Which brand of disc and parking brake pads did you use?
I don't remember the brand but it shouldn't matter that much. Did you free up the lever mechanism as it is common for it to seize. Also the cables can seize up, did you check the were moving freely when the hubs were off?
I've never known that they put drum breaks inside the hub too, that's definitely news to me. I think the reason most RUclipsrs won't tell you how to wind back the shoes is that most cars don't have brake shoes and disks. My Alfa 156 doesn't, but it is quite a bit lighter than those Mercs.
@@alibro7512 I imagine some of the buildup that prevents the disk coming off is due to the salt on your UK roads, so perhaps it wasn't an issue for them. If it's a non-UK RUclipsr you're talking about than that's probably why. My 23yo 200 000km Alfa 156's suspension looks a lot cleaner than a lot of the cars I see on channels like Italia Autos and it's primarily because of the salt.
Off topic question, when you rotated the hub without any pads or shoes, whats that grinding noise? Ive been hearing that sound in my x204 just replaced pads and shoes, with no luck
@@alibro7512 its the bearing, apparently is warping, thus making the grinding noise whenever I accelerate hard or decelerate, its from both pads and shoes.
@@Eli-kr5bm I've never heard of a warping bearing before. Normally they become noisy as you drive along and are worse when cornering. You sure someone isn't spoofing?
@@alibro7512 sure, Ive tested it myself, ive past experiences with noisy/failing bearings, but this is weird, no noise from bearing, it is just getting offset during hard-acceleration or deceleration, enough to let the brakes grind ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@Eli-kr5bm have you confirmed the shields are not the problem? In another car I had them rubbing as they were rusted away. I ripped them off and never had the issue again.
You are doing it the wrong way round, put spring at adjusting end on first, as goes in at rear, put adjuster wheel in between shoes then open up and push over hub to connect front where spring goes in from front of shoe, much easier and as Mercedes says to do it, making hard work for yourself.
Oh I forgot to mention that you are correct never ever put grease on the front and rear plate of a disc... easy on the rims torture on the studs... I guess that's why people are buying more studs these days
I don't think so. It is my daily driver at the minute but I plan to sell it when the EV project is on the road. I may buy a van for work to replace it as I currently need to hire one any time I need it.
@@Ruudi05 the engine is good so it is worth too much as it is. My next EV will be similar design as in rear wheel drive using a lexus hybrid tyranny but the car will be Pre 2001 so it can be tax free.
I have to replace the dust shield on both rear brakes on my E220 W212, its a job i keep putting off surely the brains at mercedes could have come up with a better design than this. AND my E class rear subframe failed , Mercs replaced it under warranty. Cheshire UK
When I first started driving I had rear brakes that were drum brakes. It was such a pain and test of patience to work on them due to the springs. I was happy when I finally bought a car that had all disc brakes.
One guy I watch on another channel will wash the parking brakes with a soapy water and a paint brush to clean off the dust build up. He won't use a air hose to blow it clean.
I have watched a few videos now from various people (all good and thanks to everyone). This is the best one, because explains better how the handbrake part works. I opened mine up on an old car just bought and the lever thing that moves the shoes is missing, so I'm pleased to have been able to see the inside and how it fits together. Thanks a lot :)
Glad it helped. 🙂
Just stripped down and got as far as replacing the shoes on nearside. You made putting the springs on far easier than I found it. After 2 hours I've had enough for today😅. I did the same job on an MGZT years ago, Im sure it was easier though perhaps my memory is forgetting the true horror of swearing, dirt and cut fingers.Thanks for your excellent vid.
Glad it helped and if it helps more I struggled a lot more on the other side. There are a few other videos of the same job on YT so it might be worth watching them for tips too.
Working with springs on a brake shoes is difficult. I used to do them years ago when I first started driving. I could do them and then I will need to read the shop manual again as the time interval could be a few years between working on drum brakes. I would forget how. The first side might take me at least an hour to do and the other will take maybe 15 minutes.
well done mate this is the first video ive seen where you do that i know from experience the disc's dont come off!
This is one of the first major DIY jobs I did on my 2004 C Class. A very satisfying job. I bounced around a few RUclipsrs before bravely going forth. Having the right tools is the biggest part of getting it done right.
Not having any mechanical background doesn't help, so sometimes, if the job looks too complicated or is likely to make the Car unroadworthy, it's straight to the mechanic.
My next task is the MAF sensor on the M271 Compressor, which on every other engine is a breeze, but this one is a pain in the a$$, and while I'm at it cleaning the throttle body, and then (if I get lucky and brave) the Valve Cover gasket as they are all seemingly related in processes.
You're braver than me as my next plan is to sell the car. 🥲 It has almost 150k miles and I fear the auto gearbox will need attention soon. It has already been serviced with new fluids a couple of years ago but I think the sensors may be on their last legs. I love the car but it's not worth spending that kind of money on.
Thanks for sharing the reality of this job. I'm just about to tackle the handbrake shoes on a vito, so this has pre-warned me. Others make it look too easy.
It makes sense to watch all the info you can get before starting and it might be as easy as others make it look but if the brake disc won't pull off you now know why.
I did the same job on a Sprinter van and it is pretty much the same only a bit bigger.
Thanks alot! I just did my brakes and like you said noone ever mentions the brake shoes as part of the job. I'll have to replace them too soon now that I know what's back there
It's not a fun job but certainly doable. Make sure to take plenty of photos of BOTH sets of brake shoes before removing anything. 😉
The 7mm hex is standard for ATE brake systems, you'll find that on BMWs, Volvos, and probably many more as well.
Same with the drum brake inside the disc.
I haven't worked on many similar systems before. The MGF and Audi A3 I worked on had a lever to operate the caliper.
Mind it was a pain too as it seized.
Thanks man this is by far the best tutorial out there helped a ton lots of love❤
Glad it helped
Great job... I really enjoyed the real life effort involved as opposed to the edited other videos...
Glad you enjoyed it.
Good Job for taking your time sharing much appreciated!
Thanks
How do you adjust foot lever for the handbrake to put more tension on it
I have fitted new shoes and just to them as you have done with brand new disks and brand new shoes but on a steep hill it's still rolls so I think there's not enough full from the foot pedal
I never tried to adjust the foot pedal but in my case the parking brake is completely rubbish. It surprises me every time it passes mot.
@@alibro7512 my mot failed due to this crap handbrake. Alhamdulillah its passed today. But its still not great on a hill. Any idea where the adjustment screw is, in older c class it under the seat
I wonder if this w212 behind the exhaust
@@Suhail.Khan-24 Sorry I don't know
The adjusting crowned wheel (COG) must be installed as follows: The correct sense of tighten it will correspond to make it shorter, this will release the tension between the shoes.
The first thing to do is to release the cables tension on the Tensioner assembly where the action of the Parking brake pedal is actioning both sides of the car. The Tensioner assembly is under the rear seat at a central position of the car. Some cars have it under the car body.
For that we must rotate an Allen screw clockwise until a gear get latched. And at the end of the work on both wheels this mechanism must be reset. There is a nice video (in russian or ukrainian ) related to a W210 model.
I wish I'd know that at the time. 🙂
Thanks for this, helped me out so much!! 😅
well done Bro. Thanks for sharing. Very educational for an elderly driver like me. dd
Thanks mate
I put some tape on like masking tape to keep the friction areas clean of grease,
And of course the wood working clamp to hold them together and sometimes to spread them apart
How do you rotate the rotor so that you can view the point to retract the parking brake? Did you put the car in neutral?
Yes, the car was in Neutral.
@@alibro7512 did you put the car in neutral with caliper on? I have the caliper off but I’m afraid to step on the brake pedal to put the car is neutral I’m scared that my ruin the piston
@hammad40 If you pull up the gear change gaiter there is a lever to let you put the car in neutral if the engine doesn't start. Plenty of YT videos to show how. Don't touch the brake with the caliper off.
Aww I have a w212. I have a electronic gear shifter which is located on the steering wheel
@@drewmuhammad40 There must be a similar lever somewhere as automatic cars break down and need to be moved. Try Googling for it.
Thanks for the content! Super helpful. Umm any idea what to do when the rotor won't come off because the shoes are engaged or stuck open?
I guess if you cannot wind back the shoes then forcing it off with crowbars or whatever is your only choice. Are you sure the parking brake is fully released?
Did my yesterday, horrible job, had to replace the backing plate as spring retaining slots corroded so would not hold the spring in place. After many attempts of getting the large spring on on the shoes I managed to put the spring on the shoes before putting them in place and then levering them into position. Whole job took longer than I thought about 5 hours! You mentioned they self adjust how does that happen?
Well done for persisting with it.
I believe the toothed pawl adjuster thing turns as the pads wear and is held in place by the spring pushing against it. If you don't adjust it to be close after refitting the disks it might eventually adjust itself but would take a while.
Thankyou for a great bit of instruction
Absolute c*** of a job 😂 I found adding a few eff’s and Jeff’s helps
Sums it up pretty well.
Can this be done with hand brake off ,and opposite rear wheel still on ground and the automatic gearbox be in natural.
I guess so.
I did this a while ago and have sold the car since so I can't confirm.
Clean the hub centering ring with a wire brush - then the disk will come off. They're usually stuck on rust. You can also release the adjuster ( ccw ) and use 2 screws to push the disk out.
The disks came off the centre ring without any problem. They will be caught by the brake shoes if you don't wind them in.
@@alibro7512 I understand. I never saw that degree of wear on the drums - enough to get the shoes stuck in it. Usually I struggle with the rust on the hub. BMW service manual says you should run the car for 500m with the hand brake SLIGHTY on afterwards. One thing worth mentioning is that one should grease the hub center ring with NIKEL antisize ( not copper ! ) as that is where the wheel centers on. Great job by the way !
@@sorinal1234 Thanks, I understand what you mean, I once struggled to remove a front disk so much (because of the rust you're talking about) I eventually decided to cut it off with a grinder. I cut through one side and hammered a chisel into the slot to widen it. Worked a treat and it was off in minutes after spending an hour or more struggling. 🤣
Hello Ali, Even though I replaced the parking brake pads with new ones in my Mercedes Vito W639 and made this adjustment, the parking brake does not work. Which brand of disc and parking brake pads did you use?
I don't remember the brand but it shouldn't matter that much. Did you free up the lever mechanism as it is common for it to seize. Also the cables can seize up, did you check the were moving freely when the hubs were off?
I would have put some locktite fluid on the caliper bolts.
I've never known that they put drum breaks inside the hub too, that's definitely news to me. I think the reason most RUclipsrs won't tell you how to wind back the shoes is that most cars don't have brake shoes and disks. My Alfa 156 doesn't, but it is quite a bit lighter than those Mercs.
They're a real pain to change but even more so if you're not aware. Even youtubers who know what they're doing don't show this for some reason.
@@alibro7512 I imagine some of the buildup that prevents the disk coming off is due to the salt on your UK roads, so perhaps it wasn't an issue for them. If it's a non-UK RUclipsr you're talking about than that's probably why. My 23yo 200 000km Alfa 156's suspension looks a lot cleaner than a lot of the cars I see on channels like Italia Autos and it's primarily because of the salt.
They aren't drum brakes they're hand brake shoes.
@@elliotrowe123 That's interesting, so it's a proper redundant system.
@@elliotrowe123 They are hand brake shoes. But that is a drum brake setup being used as a hand brake.
Good job you have done
Great video mate, much better than the crappy pelican parts one
Forgot to say great vid thanks
Off topic question, when you rotated the hub without any pads or shoes, whats that grinding noise? Ive been hearing that sound in my x204 just replaced pads and shoes, with no luck
I'm not sure. I just put it down to dust and dirt on the hub but I don't hear it now.
@@alibro7512 its the bearing, apparently is warping, thus making the grinding noise whenever I accelerate hard or decelerate, its from both pads and shoes.
@@Eli-kr5bm I've never heard of a warping bearing before. Normally they become noisy as you drive along and are worse when cornering.
You sure someone isn't spoofing?
@@alibro7512 sure, Ive tested it myself, ive past experiences with noisy/failing bearings, but this is weird, no noise from bearing, it is just getting offset during hard-acceleration or deceleration, enough to let the brakes grind ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@Eli-kr5bm have you confirmed the shields are not the problem? In another car I had them rubbing as they were rusted away.
I ripped them off and never had the issue again.
You are correct.
very good job. thanks a lot
You are doing it the wrong way round, put spring at adjusting end on first, as goes in at rear, put adjuster wheel in between shoes then open up and push over hub to connect front where spring goes in from front of shoe, much easier and as Mercedes says to do it, making hard work for yourself.
Thanks, I'll give that a try if I ever have to do it again
Hope it helps you and other, that’s the name of the game, work together.
Oh I forgot to mention that you are correct never ever put grease on the front and rear plate of a disc... easy on the rims torture on the studs... I guess that's why people are buying more studs these days
That and tyre shop/mechanic rattle guns. 😉
Horrible job, well done for showing hows it done properly and calmly, i'd swore at least a hundred times getting those springs back in lol
LOL, I had to do a lot of editing. 🤣
It happen to my today on b200
Will this car be converted to EV in the future?
I don't think so. It is my daily driver at the minute but I plan to sell it when the EV project is on the road. I may buy a van for work to replace it as I currently need to hire one any time I need it.
@@alibro7512 It's a shame you have to sell it, it's a nice car would be even better as an ev.
@@Ruudi05 the engine is good so it is worth too much as it is.
My next EV will be similar design as in rear wheel drive using a lexus hybrid tyranny but the car will be Pre 2001 so it can be tax free.
I have to replace the dust shield on both rear brakes on my E220 W212, its a job i keep putting off surely the brains at mercedes could have come up with a better design than this.
AND my E class rear subframe failed , Mercs replaced it under warranty. Cheshire UK
booty job just put my mined at rest just done mine all good thanks
Worst job in the world, hate anything with springs
When I first started driving I had rear brakes that were drum brakes. It was such a pain and test of patience to work on them due to the springs. I was happy when I finally bought a car that had all disc brakes.
Please use a suitable face mask when brushing brake dust !!!
One guy I watch on another channel will wash the parking brakes with a soapy water and a paint brush to clean off the dust build up. He won't use a air hose to blow it clean.