Having dealt with electric motors ranging from micro ro 100hp + a few things for ya. #1 Yes you need to clean the contacts on the rotor, simple way is to use a piece of fine sand paper and some thing flat to hold it against the copper contacts and rotate the motor (this is easier if you remove the gearbox). By doing this your removing the built up carbon (Brush's are mostly carbon or graphite) and your also resurfacing the contact area. The more contact surface area between the contacts and the brush means 2 things, #1 more amperage is being applied to the motor, #2 less heat is being developed because there is no point for the brush to lose contact creating an arc. Make sure you use compressed air to blow out the copper and brush material that is removed (don't breath it). IF you know what your doing you can also resurface the brushes also but unless they are really bad they will reseat them self's after a little use of the motor. The other issue you have is bearings that have worn out. Usually when a motor/gearbox is making those sounds (high pitched squealing) that means the bearings have worn out. Usually the motor will start out fast and after running will start to slow down and start making that sound you heard. Thats the bearings heating up and in doing so they are rubbing metal on metal and in fact if left like that they will sooner or later seize up. A little hint: It's harder to replace a bearing that has heated up and seized then it is to replace one that hasn't, Easy way to see if it's the motor or the gearbox is remove the motor from the gearbox and run the motor, if it dosn't do it again after running the motor for a while then it's the gearbox, if it does then it's the motor. Also not many know that those gear box's are just like a car/truck/heavy machinery gearbox, they require gear oil/lube and it should be checked twice a year. I know this is an old post but maybe this info will help some others.
-s or -es = more than one of something (plural) -‘s = something that belongs to something (possessive) So brush’s = something that belongs to a brush. Brushes = more than one brush. Self’s = something that belongs to self. Selves = more than one self. Box’s = something that belongs to box. Boxes = more than one box.
@@DennisHicks78749 thanks grammar Queen. Please go to the front office to get you’re award with the words from me engraved on it…. It reads “I don’t give a fuck what you think or say!” Dennis the time you spent typing out the useless response you did could have been better spent poking yourself in eye with a pencil!
I just watched a video on testing wheelchair motors, and it looks like you're right. The brake needs to be energized when the motor is running. Now, the gear box also locks the wheel from turning, so I thought it the brake shouldn't be energized when the motor was operating. Oops! I'm going to test all of this today. Thanks for your help.
the brush ,looks good, you can clean the commutator a little by wrapping a layer of fine sand paper over a pencil eraser & use a rubber band to hold it on, then lightly insert it while the motor is running, but your squeak sounds like a bearing, they are cheap & easy to replace.. good luck..
Ha I'm looking for help on my wheelchair and I find you. Nice. My damn ON won't stay ON. Just flickers and left me broken down at the local store ...major embarrassment.
The brake energizes when the motor is powered, when it energizes it retracts the brake disks letting the motor spin freely, when the motor power stops it releases the magnet and the spring locks the disks into place. ...actually that's something I need to check on a chair that was given to me, the motor isn't working and the brushes are literally stuck in there! I need to make sure the brake is releasing on that side just in case that is what caused the problem! ...oh, the squeak. Its definitely a bearing, just a matter of figuring out which one!
I looked at the operator's manual for your wheelchair online. I'll make a very short video tomorrow explaining what I think you ought to do for a test. I still think you'll need to get it serviced, though.
These motors all have a lever on them that engages/disengages the gearbox. It'll most likely be on top of the motor, but will be easily accessed by anyone sitting in the wheelchair. Just turn it and the gearbox will be disengaged. Try running the motor to see if it makes any odd noises. If it does, then the motor most likely has problems. If you don't hear any unusual noises with the gearbox disengaged, then the gearbox needs to be worked on. It needs to be serviced either way.
sounds like you have a dry bearing. If you were to gain access to it please mention the numbers written on it's side. Most likely a common and low cost part.
Also that part on the back of the motor is a brake. It has a spring and a disc to keep the motor from spinning when power isn't applied so the wheel chair doesn't roll away. It disengages from centrifugal force, but I bet it is what's hanging up. I would remove it, since you don't need it for your application.
No it does not engage or disengage from centrifugal force. When the motor powers up so is the brake. This operates a solenoid acting upon a plate which retracts from the motor alliwing the motor to run freely. Cut the power to the moter and hence to the solenoid...the brake reengages.
Thank you very much, by the way I changed the both motors 3 months ago, I wonder why they are clicking. Thank you though. I've called my insurance for service, but it takes a long time. Thank you again!
The copper contacts are a bit worn but not too badly. You should remove the armature and have a machine shop take a minimum cleanup cut. Probably .005 to .008 one thousandths of an inch by looking.. Replace the carbon graphite brushes with new ones. Don't waste your money on turning the contact points unless you do. Also replace the bearings as the wear and sound indicates that they are going bad. It appears that when the motor gets hot it starts to drag. Also check the gearbox for any worn or dragging parts. It is quite possible that you can get a rebuild kit from the manufacturer if you don't know how to match up bearings and gears. Hope this helps. I was a machinist for 40 years so I am not blowing smoke at you. Turning the armature is not very expensive and any knowledgeable machinist can do it for you. It should only take about 30 to 45 minutes. Also there should be no more than .002 run out between the bearing journals and the contact points. If you have the extra money you can have the motor rebuilt by an electric motor shop for about half of what a new one will cost you. Just make sure that the shop is reliable.
Thanks for all of your great advice. I've had to shelve the wheelchair motors for the time being since I don't have the money, time, tools, or skills I need to do what I want to do with them. I'm also trying to sell my house, and I may move to The Philippines.
John Strabismus You might look for a good used one or have some one rebuild it for you it shouldn't cost too awful much if you shop around.Try craigslist....
A brass wooden handled carburator brush to clean the commontator will work fine , But this sounds like a bad bearing it`s pulling the power down before it squeals .
It turns out that the brake was on. I thought the brake worked if powered, but it turns out it works when not powered. I got that problem straightened out.
If it is electrically powered, my guess would be that you would apply power to disengage it and it is normally engaged when not energized, other wise when the wheel chair was just sitting there it would be drawing power from the battery. Have you tried applying power to the brake while running the motor?
The only thing I see is Manual and Drive. I shifted it to manual but the motors are not working. I don't know, I have an Invacare Storm series Wheelchair. I don't know anything about the motors though, I'll be happy if you make a video about how to do so.
I don't think you're exactly correct about the brake. I think it's electrically charged, and I don't have the brake powered. It's still possible that it's causing problems, but since both motors have similar problems I think that's unlikely. My guess is that both motors just need to be serviced.
When the motor is running you should also be getting a 24volt feed to the electronic brake. This activates a solenoid which holds the brake off. When you release the on off switch this ceases supply to both brake and motor, thuss applying the brake. So the tests you need to carry out is to check if you have a 24volt supply to the brake when the motor is running. You can either use a test meter or rig up a 24volt bulb to a couple of bits of wire as use that as a tester.If there is no supply when the motor runs, you could, temporarily, remove the brake. This will allow you to use the buggy. But remember, you have no brakes. There are loads of good tutorials on youtube that explain exactly how to remove the brake mechanism. Hope this helps you.
I would get some fine sand paper and hold it on the contacts with it on as it spins to get them down to good bare copper. Then use the sand paper to make that brush surface as smooth as possible. The go to an auto parts store and get some dielectric grease, it's the stuff you put in spark plug wire boots to seal them. A packet is like 99 cents. Lube it up with that because it's conductive. If that is where the friction is coming from I bet that would fix it.
Sounds like the brake is still engaged, measure the resistance across the brake, power up the brake, you should hear a click, make sure the brake is disengaging. Sounds like the motor is too slow even on 24 volts, suspect drag. If it's not the brake then it's a bearing.
Well, as things turned out the brake was on, and that caused the noise, and slowing. I didn't know the brake needed to be charged to be disengaged. I thought it was the other way around.
someone needs to come up with a list to cross reference power wheelchair parts like bearings, motors, etc. I found wheel bearing part no. right on the bearing and 10 pairs cost $15 while Bounder wants $45 for a pair.
Don't know how someone would find it out without having to source and teardown a bunch of motors. An expensive process with little return. I volunteer you! As a practical matter, most are limited to finding it out when the motor gets noisy and it is time to replace bearings. BTW, if you decide to do it, please start with my Jazzy motors, used in most of their models for years: Jazzy E620, or DRVMOTR1173 (right side) and DRVMOTR1172 (left side motor).
the dc motor by design runs heated,one way or another it gains heat,what it can not tolerate is loss of lube to the bearings and the commutator you are speaking of needs cleaning often,or the brushes run uneven then there is damage that requires new parts,i rebuilt starters and dc electric motors for over 45 year,these little motors don't require much,but lubing the bushings and keeping the commutator clean gives more months and years to operation,simple thing like you did,your motor should never run under voltage for any reason,if the motor is rated for higher voltage to keep amperage down,then that's what you do
This is a very old video, but I am asking for my own information because I will be rebuilding 4 wc motors (new bearings & brushes, clean and remind the gear box, and resurface the commutator). I have two sets of motors and multiple joystick controllers and I plan to keep my sturdy old chair going for many years! When you said a motor should never run under voltage, did you mean you should not run a 24 volt motor with 12 volts, or did you mean something else? Please clarify, and thanks in advance for your help!
@@DennisHicks78749 if you run a motor under voltage it will kill it quick,if you run it over voltage it will kill it, just slower,if you run it over voltage all day hard its toast,run your motors at fixed voltage on the equipment and if you are going long distances you will have to do something else ,do to the max voltage on a lot of these little machines,people ar e so used to gasoline power and extended runs,can't do that withbattery power,and the motors new to cool off before coming back or you will boil the grease right out of the bearings
not sure this is feasible but one thing that cleans corroded copper really well is muriatic acid. Even using a Q-Tip dipped in the stuff works amazingly
Most likely a disconnection from the reverse end of the throttle pot. But if its not that it could be the control box which is a terribly expensive repair. Typically from £400 to £600. Sadly you do not have access to the correct test gear. But if you have a multimeter, ant know how to use it, you could check the loom for continuity .
The commutator looks ok. What you are removing is carbon,this is normal. The motor sounds like the brushes have been interfered with,and may need bedding in. People will take these out and dont fit them back the same way,this will cause noise poor contact, sparking and excessive carbon deposits.If you dont understand motors leave alone!
This is backed up by the fact that when you replaced the brushes, after cleaning the com, the commutatir very quickly became coarpted in carbon. Thake the brushes out, replace them with new ones and throw the old ones in the bin. Also make certain that you have seated the new brushes correctly and replace the retainer xpring correctly. You did neither in the video. Moral of the tale. If you are not competent then leave it alone. Remember the old saying " Idiots who interfere, lose the money for their beer". Corny but very true.
My Vita Bushranger Mobility Scooter, when I have been using it fir a while, goes into a Low Gear Mode, then finally after I keep driving it either STOPS or takes off back into High Gear again, then goes thru the same thing again after awhile, until eventually stops, batteries are showing FULL Charge, does anybody have any idea what is going on with my Scooter.???
I have a Jet3 I've charged and no movement I've had battery tested and all is good. .the horn works but not sure of problem. could the controls be locked if so how do I unlock? please help
If someone is having problems first search online to see if there is a troubleshooting guide. If so, consult that before posting some shot in the dark questions to your tube randos.
Question: my victory 9 scooter is having issues, it powers up but when I go forward or reverse the battery drains all the way down. And they're fully charged new batteries any repair tips?, thanks
They are wired up incorrectly . This is causing a short circuit and draining the battery. It could also cause a fire as the cutout is inoperative due to the incirrect wiring.
my older pride gogo traveller elite has new batteries and it can run for hours but get on a steep grade or hill and it becomes such a load that the circuit breaker shuts down the whole scooter and we have to reach down and reset it, and walk the scooter up the hill. very discouraging. what can i do to solve this. if i can replace the motor to solve this it will be simple i think. any help is appreciated...thanks
The likelyhood is that the battery terminals and connectirs are a bit corroded.Give them a rub with a brass wire brush that you use to clean suede shoes.
If you read the manual, it says these are only designed to work on a very slight grade, definitely not to go up a steep hill. The circuit breaker keeps you from burning out your motor, which is what would happen if you bypassed the breaker and then went up that hill.
Hi I was wondering if you could help my pride sundancer scooter while sitting idle with the wheelchair ready to go without pressing the throttle the wheelchair takes off also reverse works only sometime and not the correct speed any help would be appreciated thanks
Your throttle pot needs replacing. What is happenning is that the throttle pot, which is very similar to the balance control on a stereo amplifier, has started to disintegrate. That is why you are getting random power ups. If you can find a service manual for your particular scooter, that will give you the resistance of the pot, in ohms. If you are quite handy you could remove the throttle assembly, also known as the wig wag. On the casing of the round thing with a spindle sticking out of one end, it will me marked in OHMS. Obtain a similar one from radioshack or maplins, any supplier will have one, and youve got it made. All you do now is carefully remove the old component and replace it with the new. Solder the wires from the old one onto the new one . But brpe very careful to take photos and make notes of exactly which wires care from where and be sure to replace them in the same places. Hope this helps you.
Hello John hope you can be able to assist me, I have a jazzy select 6 with 2 new batteries the issue here is when I power on the console blinks on & off, try to do a test to see if it locks & unlock nothing, what can it be? thanks for your help Juan
Though this is too late to help you, if someone reads this with a similar problem, those flashes are error codes. Note how many of the leds are lit, and how many times they flash without pausing, then Google your wc model error codes. This diagnoses many if not most power wc probs.
The brake energizes when the motor is powered, when it energizes it retracts the brake disks letting the motor spin freely, when the motor power stops it releases the magnet and the spring locks the disks into place. ...actually that's something I need to check on a chair that was given to me, the motor isn't working and the brushes are literally stuck in there! I need to make sure the brake is releasing on that side just in case that is what caused the problem! ...oh, the squeak. Its definitely a bearing, just a matter of figuring out which one!
I got forward and reverse to work on my scooter but I can't get the brake to work. The scooter rolls free whether or not the scooter is energized. There are two thin black wires coming off of the brake housing. I'm confused though because if those are to energize the brake, shouldn't the chair be hard to roll?
+TakronRust I know it sounds a bit obvious, but do you have the twist-lock handles turned to engaged the motors, or are they turned to release the gearbox so that someone can push the wheelchair?
+TakronRust hrm...it shouldnt do that anyway, on mine when I reduce speed to a stop the brakes don't engage until the chair is almost dead stopped, its very audible. I cant imagine it rolling very far even on a slight incline with the drag the gearbox puts on each side. Ill have to think on that a bit. Your motors do go thru a gearbox before the wgeel, dont they?
+JOSHUA FAY aha. Well sounds like the controller is either fucked or they gave you the wrong controller. When you're going at speed X and instantly reduce the throttle to zero the controller should follow a preprogrammed power reduction curve, bringing the chair quickly down to a stop and then engaging the brakes. Sounds like when you are dropping the throttle to zero its just cutting power to the motors and letting them free spin and the drag of the gearbox is the only thing slowing it. Guess its good the brakes weren't engaging when power to the motors was cut, lol, wouldnt want to see how far it could chunk me! Hehe
Having dealt with electric motors ranging from micro ro 100hp + a few things for ya. #1 Yes you need to clean the contacts on the rotor, simple way is to use a piece of fine sand paper and some thing flat to hold it against the copper contacts and rotate the motor (this is easier if you remove the gearbox). By doing this your removing the built up carbon (Brush's are mostly carbon or graphite) and your also resurfacing the contact area. The more contact surface area between the contacts and the brush means 2 things, #1 more amperage is being applied to the motor, #2 less heat is being developed because there is no point for the brush to lose contact creating an arc. Make sure you use compressed air to blow out the copper and brush material that is removed (don't breath it). IF you know what your doing you can also resurface the brushes also but unless they are really bad they will reseat them self's after a little use of the motor. The other issue you have is bearings that have worn out. Usually when a motor/gearbox is making those sounds (high pitched squealing) that means the bearings have worn out. Usually the motor will start out fast and after running will start to slow down and start making that sound you heard. Thats the bearings heating up and in doing so they are rubbing metal on metal and in fact if left like that they will sooner or later seize up. A little hint: It's harder to replace a bearing that has heated up and seized then it is to replace one that hasn't, Easy way to see if it's the motor or the gearbox is remove the motor from the gearbox and run the motor, if it dosn't do it again after running the motor for a while then it's the gearbox, if it does then it's the motor. Also not many know that those gear box's are just like a car/truck/heavy machinery gearbox, they require gear oil/lube and it should be checked twice a year.
I know this is an old post but maybe this info will help some others.
-s or -es = more than one of something (plural)
-‘s = something that belongs to something (possessive)
So brush’s = something that belongs to a brush.
Brushes = more than one brush.
Self’s = something that belongs to self.
Selves = more than one self.
Box’s = something that belongs to box.
Boxes = more than one box.
@@DennisHicks78749 thanks grammar Queen. Please go to the front office to get you’re award with the words from me engraved on it…. It reads “I don’t give a fuck what you think or say!” Dennis the time you spent typing out the useless response you did could have been better spent poking yourself in eye with a pencil!
I just watched a video on testing wheelchair motors, and it looks like you're right. The brake needs to be energized when the motor is running. Now, the gear box also locks the wheel from turning, so I thought it the brake shouldn't be energized when the motor was operating. Oops! I'm going to test all of this today. Thanks for your help.
the brush ,looks good, you can clean the commutator a little by wrapping a layer of fine sand paper over a pencil eraser & use a rubber band to hold it on, then lightly insert it while the motor is running, but your squeak sounds like a bearing, they are cheap & easy to replace.. good luck..
Ha I'm looking for help on my wheelchair and I find you. Nice. My damn ON won't stay ON. Just flickers and left me broken down at the local store ...major embarrassment.
I like these suggestions. I didn't think about the grease. It's worth a try. Thanks.
The brake energizes when the motor is powered, when it energizes it retracts the brake disks letting the motor spin freely, when the motor power stops it releases the magnet and the spring locks the disks into place. ...actually that's something I need to check on a chair that was given to me, the motor isn't working and the brushes are literally stuck in there! I need to make sure the brake is releasing on that side just in case that is what caused the problem! ...oh, the squeak. Its definitely a bearing, just a matter of figuring out which one!
You're right. I found that out from FrugalPrepper.
I looked at the operator's manual for your wheelchair online. I'll make a very short video tomorrow explaining what I think you ought to do for a test. I still think you'll need to get it serviced, though.
These motors all have a lever on them that engages/disengages the gearbox. It'll most likely be on top of the motor, but will be easily accessed by anyone sitting in the wheelchair. Just turn it and the gearbox will be disengaged. Try running the motor to see if it makes any odd noises. If it does, then the motor most likely has problems. If you don't hear any unusual noises with the gearbox disengaged, then the gearbox needs to be worked on. It needs to be serviced either way.
sounds like you have a dry bearing. If you were to gain access to it please mention the numbers written on it's side. Most likely a common and low cost part.
Thats the bearings making that noise.
Also that part on the back of the motor is a brake. It has a spring and a disc to keep the motor from spinning when power isn't applied so the wheel chair doesn't roll away. It disengages from centrifugal force, but I bet it is what's hanging up. I would remove it, since you don't need it for your application.
No it does not engage or disengage from centrifugal force. When the motor powers up so is the brake. This operates a solenoid acting upon a plate which retracts from the motor alliwing the motor to run freely. Cut the power to the moter and hence to the solenoid...the brake reengages.
@@paullee5573 almost correct, the brake has its own wires and is energised independently to the motor at almost the same time.
Thank you very much, by the way I changed the both motors 3 months ago, I wonder why they are clicking. Thank you though. I've called my insurance for service, but it takes a long time. Thank you again!
The copper contacts are a bit worn but not too badly. You should remove the armature and have a machine shop take a minimum cleanup cut. Probably .005 to .008 one thousandths of an inch by looking.. Replace the carbon graphite brushes with new ones. Don't waste your money on turning the contact points unless you do. Also replace the bearings as the wear and sound indicates that they are going bad. It appears that when the motor gets hot it starts to drag. Also check the gearbox for any worn or dragging parts. It is quite possible that you can get a rebuild kit from the manufacturer if you don't know how to match up bearings and gears. Hope this helps. I was a machinist for 40 years so I am not blowing smoke at you. Turning the armature is not very expensive and any knowledgeable machinist can do it for you. It should only take about 30 to 45 minutes. Also there should be no more than .002 run out between the bearing journals and the contact points. If you have the extra money you can have the motor rebuilt by an electric motor shop for about half of what a new one will cost you. Just make sure that the shop is reliable.
Thanks for all of your great advice. I've had to shelve the wheelchair motors for the time being since I don't have the money, time, tools, or skills I need to do what I want to do with them. I'm also trying to sell my house, and I may move to The Philippines.
John Strabismus You might look for a good used one or have some one rebuild it for you it shouldn't cost too awful much if you shop around.Try craigslist....
Seems to me it's the bearings not the brushes that are bad.
the connections can get dirty, kinda like using a slot car and having to use an eraser to clean the connections.
This would also make if fail safe instead of a failure resulting in a run away chair.
A brass wooden handled carburator brush to clean the commontator will work fine , But this sounds like a bad bearing it`s pulling the power down before it squeals .
It turns out that the brake was on. I thought the brake worked if powered, but it turns out it works when not powered. I got that problem straightened out.
If it is electrically powered, my guess would be that you would apply power to disengage it and it is normally engaged when not energized, other wise when the wheel chair was just sitting there it would be drawing power from the battery. Have you tried applying power to the brake while running the motor?
The only thing I see is Manual and Drive. I shifted it to manual but the motors are not working. I don't know, I have an Invacare Storm series Wheelchair. I don't know anything about the motors though, I'll be happy if you make a video about how to do so.
Have you tried resetting the overliad button?
I don't think you're exactly correct about the brake. I think it's electrically charged, and I don't have the brake powered. It's still possible that it's causing problems, but since both motors have similar problems I think that's unlikely. My guess is that both motors just need to be serviced.
When the motor is running you should also be getting a 24volt feed to the electronic brake. This activates a solenoid which holds the brake off. When you release the on off switch this ceases supply to both brake and motor, thuss applying the brake.
So the tests you need to carry out is to check if you have a 24volt supply to the brake when the motor is running. You can either use a test meter or rig up a 24volt bulb to a couple of bits of wire as use that as a tester.If there is no supply when the motor runs, you could, temporarily, remove the brake. This will allow you to use the buggy. But remember, you have no brakes.
There are loads of good tutorials on youtube that explain exactly how to remove the brake mechanism.
Hope this helps you.
I would get some fine sand paper and hold it on the contacts with it on as it spins to get them down to good bare copper. Then use the sand paper to make that brush surface as smooth as possible. The go to an auto parts store and get some dielectric grease, it's the stuff you put in spark plug wire boots to seal them. A packet is like 99 cents. Lube it up with that because it's conductive. If that is where the friction is coming from I bet that would fix it.
New brushes and oil it may run better
Sounds like the brake is still engaged, measure the resistance across the brake, power up the brake, you should hear a click, make sure the brake is disengaging. Sounds like the motor is too slow even on 24 volts, suspect drag. If it's not the brake then it's a bearing.
Scooter guy It was the brake.
dude your voice go's quiet at 4;15.
good video though,shown me a couple of things whats wrong with mine.thank you.
Well, as things turned out the brake was on, and that caused the noise, and slowing. I didn't know the brake needed to be charged to be disengaged. I thought it was the other way around.
someone needs to come up with a list to cross reference power wheelchair parts like bearings, motors, etc. I found wheel bearing part no. right on the bearing and 10 pairs cost $15 while Bounder wants $45 for a pair.
+markfothebeast That "someone" could be you. If you did the hard work I'll bet you could have a very profitable website.
@@jwwm2 I for one would take out a 5 year subscription, even if it was £20 a week. It would save me thousands of oounds per year.
Don't know how someone would find it out without having to source and teardown a bunch of motors. An expensive process with little return. I volunteer you!
As a practical matter, most are limited to finding it out when the motor gets noisy and it is time to replace bearings.
BTW, if you decide to do it, please start with my Jazzy motors, used in most of their models for years: Jazzy E620, or DRVMOTR1173 (right side) and DRVMOTR1172 (left side motor).
the dc motor by design runs heated,one way or another it gains heat,what it can not tolerate is loss of lube to the bearings and the commutator you are speaking of needs cleaning often,or the brushes run uneven then there is damage that requires new parts,i rebuilt starters and dc electric motors for over 45 year,these little motors don't require much,but lubing the bushings and keeping the commutator clean gives more months and years to operation,simple thing like you did,your motor should never run under voltage for any reason,if the motor is rated for higher voltage to keep amperage down,then that's what you do
This is a very old video, but I am asking for my own information because I will be rebuilding 4 wc motors (new bearings & brushes, clean and remind the gear box, and resurface the commutator). I have two sets of motors and multiple joystick controllers and I plan to keep my sturdy old chair going for many years!
When you said a motor should never run under voltage, did you mean you should not run a 24 volt motor with 12 volts, or did you mean something else?
Please clarify, and thanks in advance for your help!
@@DennisHicks78749 if you run a motor under voltage it will kill it quick,if you run it over voltage it will kill it, just slower,if you run it over voltage all day hard its toast,run your motors at fixed voltage on the equipment and if you are going long distances you will have to do something else ,do to the max voltage on a lot of these little machines,people ar e so used to gasoline power and extended runs,can't do that withbattery power,and the motors new to cool off before coming back or you will boil the grease right out of the bearings
not sure this is feasible but one thing that cleans corroded copper really well is muriatic acid. Even using a Q-Tip dipped in the stuff works amazingly
I think it will eat the carbon brushes when replaced. Use a fibreglass pen. Nothing else.
The right tire of my wheelchair is clicking really bad and I feel that I'm driving on bumps. I don't know what it is. Any tips?
did u connect 24v to the electro brake, when testing?
my dad's chair is saying that the 2nd motor is disconnected, how can he check to see what the problem is and where?
any idea what would need to be changed if the reverse stop working just the reverse not sure what to look at ? cheers everyone
Most likely a disconnection from the reverse end of the throttle pot. But if its not that it could be the control box which is a terribly expensive repair. Typically from £400 to £600.
Sadly you do not have access to the correct test gear. But if you have a multimeter, ant know how to use it, you could check the loom for continuity .
Oil it?
The commutator looks ok. What you are removing is carbon,this is normal. The motor sounds like the brushes have been interfered with,and may need bedding in. People will take these out and dont fit them back the same way,this will cause noise poor contact, sparking and excessive carbon deposits.If you dont understand motors leave alone!
This is backed up by the fact that when you replaced the brushes, after cleaning the com, the commutatir very quickly became coarpted in carbon. Thake the brushes out, replace them with new ones and throw the old ones in the bin. Also make certain that you have seated the new brushes correctly and replace the retainer xpring correctly. You did neither in the video.
Moral of the tale. If you are not competent then leave it alone. Remember the old saying " Idiots who interfere, lose the money for their beer". Corny but very true.
What would cause my ivacare to work at higher speed settings but nit want to move at low speed settings
Your throttle pot is faulty
How I'm gonna do that?
My Vita Bushranger Mobility Scooter, when I have been using it fir a while, goes into a Low Gear Mode, then finally after I keep driving it either STOPS or takes off back into High Gear again, then goes thru the same thing again after awhile, until eventually stops, batteries are showing FULL Charge, does anybody have any idea what is going on with my Scooter.???
I'd try running the motor with the gearbox disengaged.
I have a Jet3 I've charged and no movement I've had battery tested and all is good. .the horn works but not sure of problem. could the controls be locked if so how do I unlock? please help
If someone is having problems first search online to see if there is a troubleshooting guide. If so, consult that before posting some shot in the dark questions to your tube randos.
Hello . please. may scooter. It runs very slowly about 8 km / h. The battery works regularly. What is the reason? Thank you very much
Impossible to tell without inspection.
Question: my victory 9 scooter is having issues, it powers up but when I go forward or reverse the battery drains all the way down. And they're fully charged new batteries any repair tips?, thanks
They are wired up incorrectly . This is causing a short circuit and draining the battery. It could also cause a fire as the cutout is inoperative due to the incirrect wiring.
my older pride gogo traveller elite has new batteries and it can run for hours but get on a steep grade or hill and it becomes such a load that the circuit breaker shuts down the whole scooter and we have to reach down and reset it, and walk the scooter up the hill. very discouraging. what can i do to solve this. if i can replace the motor to solve this it will be simple i think. any
help is appreciated...thanks
I know this is a year old but I had the same problem. I put 26ah batteries in now it goes up hills reasonably well.
The likelyhood is that the battery terminals and connectirs are a bit corroded.Give them a rub with a brass wire brush that you use to clean suede shoes.
If you read the manual, it says these are only designed to work on a very slight grade, definitely not to go up a steep hill. The circuit breaker keeps you from burning out your motor, which is what would happen if you bypassed the breaker and then went up that hill.
hi, my wheelchair right motor won't rotate suddenly, is there a gear that fails?
There is, but it is most unlikely to fail. More like you have got a piece of twine wrapped around the axle on that side.
i have an older ranger 11 that jerks when in forward on level or down hill grade . works fine in reverse turning or up grade what to do?
DONALD MILLIGAN In my opinion you have a problem with the gear box, but without inspecting the chair there's no way to be sure about it.
Hi I was wondering if you could help my pride sundancer scooter while sitting idle with the wheelchair ready to go without pressing the throttle the wheelchair takes off also reverse works only sometime and not the correct speed any help would be appreciated thanks
Your throttle pot needs replacing. What is happenning is that the throttle pot, which is very similar to the balance control on a stereo amplifier, has started to disintegrate. That is why you are getting random power ups.
If you can find a service manual for your particular scooter, that will give you the resistance of the pot, in ohms. If you are quite handy you could remove the throttle assembly, also known as the wig wag. On the casing of the round thing with a spindle sticking out of one end, it will me marked in OHMS. Obtain a similar one from radioshack or maplins, any supplier will have one, and youve got it made. All you do now is carefully remove the old component and replace it with the new. Solder the wires from the old one onto the new one . But brpe very careful to take photos and make notes of exactly which wires care from where and be sure to replace them in the same places.
Hope this helps you.
For dry red eyes try clear eyes
how can i stop the light from my scooter it won't stop flching
Probably a loose connection. But impossible to say because you give no information. Which light are you talking about.
my jazzy goes right when in full speed. why is that
the right motor is about to go dead......
The only
Hello John hope you can be able to assist me, I have a jazzy select 6 with 2 new batteries
the issue here is when I power on the console blinks on & off, try to do a test to see if it locks & unlock nothing, what can it be? thanks for your help
Juan
+RuBY ARROYo Start by making certain everything is plugged in properly, and that there's no corrosion on any of the connectors.
Though this is too late to help you, if someone reads this with a similar problem, those flashes are error codes. Note how many of the leds are lit, and how many times they flash without pausing, then Google your wc model error codes. This diagnoses many if not most power wc probs.
X fa en español en latino América no ablamos inglés
its,,beter less price 4 this chair to buy 4 people amen.
مرحبا يا سيدي ما اسم أريد شراء محرك مثله وشكرا
+عدنان العراقي It's an electric wheel chair motor with gear box. I don't know if there's any exact name for it. Wheelchair motors are sold online.
+ جون الحول thank you sir
عدنان العراقي عندي محرك
should have shown us the before problems,it actually need to be resurfaced,why use 12 volts you should not do this misleading
Get help !!!
تلم
appliance.academy
The brake energizes when the motor is powered, when it energizes it retracts the brake disks letting the motor spin freely, when the motor power stops it releases the magnet and the spring locks the disks into place. ...actually that's something I need to check on a chair that was given to me, the motor isn't working and the brushes are literally stuck in there! I need to make sure the brake is releasing on that side just in case that is what caused the problem! ...oh, the squeak. Its definitely a bearing, just a matter of figuring out which one!
I got forward and reverse to work on my scooter but I can't get the brake to work. The scooter rolls free whether or not the scooter is energized. There are two thin black wires coming off of the brake housing. I'm confused though because if those are to energize the brake, shouldn't the chair be hard to roll?
+TakronRust I know it sounds a bit obvious, but do you have the twist-lock handles turned to engaged the motors, or are they turned to release the gearbox so that someone can push the wheelchair?
+mikie2501 yea, that's on. the chair goes forward and reverse. the problem is that when you let off the throttle, it rolls 20 feet before it stops.
+TakronRust hrm...it shouldnt do that anyway, on mine when I reduce speed to a stop the brakes don't engage until the chair is almost dead stopped, its very audible. I cant imagine it rolling very far even on a slight incline with the drag the gearbox puts on each side. Ill have to think on that a bit. Your motors do go thru a gearbox before the wgeel, dont they?
+JOSHUA FAY aha. Well sounds like the controller is either fucked or they gave you the wrong controller. When you're going at speed X and instantly reduce the throttle to zero the controller should follow a preprogrammed power reduction curve, bringing the chair quickly down to a stop and then engaging the brakes. Sounds like when you are dropping the throttle to zero its just cutting power to the motors and letting them free spin and the drag of the gearbox is the only thing slowing it. Guess its good the brakes weren't engaging when power to the motors was cut, lol, wouldnt want to see how far it could chunk me! Hehe