Out of all the launches I've done, the hotdog was one of my favorites. It split AND stuck, and I couldn't stop laughing. I love this thing. So glad you enjoyed!
@@isabellacassidy4108 Hi Isabella, I just gathered up all my footage of Jeff and compiled it together for you, complete with multiple slow motion speeds. You can find it here: www.patreon.com/posts/jeffs-astronaut-58166474 It's posted on my Patreon to give viewers a glimpse of what they get as a Patron of mine, however I've made it a public post so there is no cost for you to watch it. Enjoy!
My face lit up reading this. I'm delighted you created one for the fair. Keep at it... you'll go far creating things like this, as well as your own unique devices. Whether it's as a hobby, or you want to be an engineer, always keep learning about science. It's incredibly useful, and dare I say... a blast.
We did too we used to take our boats out on the lake and literally have a blast shooting cans of beer at each other. Produced a few good injuries too. We also got a jet skier dude by accident. If ya got a boat with a nice paint job I wouldn't suggest this activity and the cops around here really frown on the antics big time.
Outstanding video!! I'm a ham radio operator and have used various methods (slingshots attached to fishing poles & reels, et. al.) over the years to launch feeder lines over trees which I then use to hoist heavier support lines to pull up wire antennas. My current location has many 80+' pine trees which are far too high for the old slingshot approach. I needed a new method and these pneumatic guns are the answer. Used one owned by my local radio club & at 40psi it easily cleared an 80' pine using a 2" long by 1½" diameter section of PVC with endcaps as "ammo" tied to braided fishing line on a large kite spool. Worked like a charm. Your video is very clear, well-scripted, gets right to the point without small-talk, & your straightforward step-by-step is easy to follow. The precautions & safety measures are critical too - these things can be deadly if not assembled correctly or if fired indiscriminately. Don't point at anything you don't intend to shoot - even when not charged/loaded. The build is a very simple, uncomplicated build & you even provided the parts list!! Couldn't be any more perfect. I may have to build this version just for fun, Many thanks - great job.
Many kind words; they mean a lot. I'm delighted you enjoyed the build! While designing my launcher I came across several radio operators who made their own versions. They often used curved sections of PVC to keep the launchers compact, which I thought was smart. However, I wanted mine to be as close to the absolute simplest build possible. No spacers for the curved sections, all parts easily available, etc. Plus I prefer the air blower handle as opposed to a 1/4 turn valve to operate the thing. That's a creative use of PVC as the ammo. I've seen the purpose-made weighted beanbags for launching lines, but as you can imagine I enjoy DIY solutions too. This thing definitely gets some distance with beanie babies, so I'm sure it could work for launching pull lines. That, or just sending things off into the distance for the heck of it. I've had a lot of fun with mine. Let me know how the build goes if you decide to make it!
Us: Excuse me I'm doing science. Police vehicles: Let me sing you the song of my people. Quite the harmony to the percussion of these cannons. Stay safe!
Seriously they called on you over that? Like he said ^ were you shooting it at them lol I had my neighbor call the cops on me for sighting a 9mm and I only have a couple neighbors I live on 29 acres a shoot at the farthest end from them plus I’m shooting downhill into an 8” pile on soil. That led to a confrontation not a heated one more so me telling hi He was an asshole for that and he called again on me so I want to build this so I can play with it in peace plus I like building stuff I have a flamethrower and a small jet engine made from propane and a turbo it’s craazy. I hope everyone has a good no cop time with it 😊
I really appreciate that. I've been on a quite the hiatus, and look forward to getting back into and seeing where it can go. Thanks for the support, I'm so glad you enjoy! Let me know if you Hve any questions during your build.
Thank you. Whenever I'm working with something where safety is a concern, I try to do a similar test process. Good advice for new makers, I feel. Thanks for noticing.
I was having an issue with the sprinkler valve getting stuck open after a couple rounds of firing. I unscrewed the valve and put it back together and this fixed it temporarily but eventually it got stuck open again. After that I removed the brass fittings and just screwed the blow gun directly into the sprinkler valve and that fixed it. I’m not sure if it was just misaligned the other two times or what but I have not had any problems since. Really easy and fun project.
So glad you enjoyed it and went through with the build! I'm not exactly sure what is going on there, but what could be happening is the brass fittings are screwed in very deep into the valve. This could be preventing the diaphragm from fully seating itself to shut off the valve. Why this would happen only after a few shots, I'm unsure. Perhaps try taking the valve apart, adding the brass fitting, and inspecting it (with no pressure, unassembled from the PVC) to see if this is the case. If so, maybe some of the brass can be ground down so it still provides the same hold in the valve, but extends slightly less into it.
Thanks for the information I've been looking for a potato cannon that I could dress up to look like a thunder spear from attack on Titan. And the blowgun trigger makes it look exactly like in the anime.
i made an air gun out of black metal pipes and can hold up to 4500 psi and is lethal and fun too, but you inject air with pcp 8mm adapter valve, also i loaded steel ammos and can penetrate through concrete wall
Of course, it's a great question. Notice that the blow gun is mounted to the sprinkler valve on the side where (internally) the diaphragm contacts the spring. When you pressurize the cannon, you may be able to hear a small amount of air escaping the barrel. This is because it takes time for the air to pass through the small opening in the diaphragm to the spring side of the valve. Eventually, enough air is on the spring side of the valve that the air pressure and spring tension together are able to seal it off since they now overcome atmospheric pressure. When the trigger is first pulled, a small amount of air rushes out through the blow gun as you'd assume. You can feel this by holding your hand in front of the blow gun opening. The thing is, all that tank air pressure wants to equalize as quickly as possible with the atmosphere. When the "flood gates open" from pulling the trigger, all that air tries to rush out at once. Because of the pressure drop from the air exiting the blow gun, the diaphragm opens slightly, providing a second path of exit for the pressurized air. The air then tries to rush out both the blow gun and the barrel simultaneously, but you'll notice that inside the sprinkler valve on the diaphragm itself there is only that small hole for the air to pass through (through the small white plastic piece in the diaphragm). Initially, the only exit for the air was out the blow gun. Now with the diaphragm slightly opened it is easier for the air to pass through the large open barrel than it is to rush through the small opening of the diaphragm and out the blow gun. Pressurized air chooses the path of least resistance and tries to exit as rapidly through the barrel as possible. This causes the diaphragm to be forced open as the air pressure overcomes the spring tension. The air rushes out the barrel in one big burst and the cannon launches. Once the pressure equalizes to atmospheric pressure again, the spring tension resets the diaphragm and the process can repeat. All this is happening in a fraction of a second so it's hard to tell when one "phase" of the action occurs, but that's the order of operations each time you pull the trigger.
I know I've mentioned it in the video but please pay attention to the warnings. It's a risk pressurizing PVC as its not intended for it, so while nothing can be fully safe when doing so, err on the side of caution and use lower pressures. As for the build itself, make sure you take your time to fully seal the sprinkler valve as shown, and properly seat the diaphragm when you reassemble it. Air leaks are the most common issue you will see with this, and even more so with the valve as its more complex than simply gluing PVC together.
Assuming the required tools, I purchased everything for about $80-85. That's in a place with no sales tax. Another viewer built the cannon and paid sales tax, plus different cost of goods, and I believe they said it was in the $110-120 range. Plan a bit over $100 and I think that's a safe bet.
It's my pleasure. I made the channel so I could interact with people, after all! Help me understand, so you cut the 1in pipe in order to assemble the large coupler to the threaded adapter, and the 1in pipe is too loose inside one of those fittings?
Thanks for clarifying. I'm glad to hear you're looking at solutions on the fly, as is the way of making. However, using tape as you suggest would be very dangerous. The reason being is that enough air pressure could unseat the tape, as it would just be a friction fit. This could cause the cannon halves to launch apart, damaging and or injuring someone. Remember, this build has inherent risk no matter the design. The PVC pipes *must* be chemically welded using PVC cement to mitigate this as much as possible. Tape will eventually fail. I'm sorry it's an extra step to take, but it's the right way to go for your safety and that of others. Plus your cannon will last with proper chemical welds. You'll need to return to the hardware store and find fittings/pipe that are compatible.
Glad you asked! Ah yeah that makes sense. Thankfully pipes only come in several sizes, with 1/4" between the smaller sizes. Some can look similar until you've worked with them a lot.
Thank you so much for your support! Many videos I watch (about both air cannons and general DIY) skip over a lot. If it's for entertainment only, that's one thing. If it's for teaching people how to actually build the device, however, that's another. I wanted to take all the information I learned and present it so anyone can build one themselves even without prior building experience like you mentioned. I'm glad it hit the mark.
Brilliant creation! I used this for my physics project. But the problem is I’m not sure if the length of the barrel affects the distance and accuracy? Does the things inside go further with shorter barrel or longer barrel? Does it become more accurate with longer barrels?
I'm delighted you made it yourself for your physics class! How'd your build go? This is a fantastic question and one I looked into back when I played paintball. The thing about a projectile in a barrel is that it's not flying absolutely straight in line with the barrel. It rattles around in there to some degree. How well the size is matched to the barrel will influence this. Too small, and the projectile can move a lot (relatively) creating odd spin as it touches the barrel walls (more noticeable on spherical projectiles like paintballs), and also decreasing the potential velocity as air escapes around it. Too large, and the projectile will experience excess drag against the inside of the barrel, slowing it down. The length of the barrel also comes into play like you're suggesting. A longer barrel will tend to be more accurate as the projectile has more time to orient its flight along the barrel's axis. However, the longer the barrel the more collisions/drag it experiences (imagine a 100ft air cannon, the projectile may not even make it out the end). A shorter barrel will tend to be less accurate as there is less time to orient the projectile, and if you go too short, it will actually slow it down too. The reason being is once the projectile exits and is in the air, it's experiencing a lot more drag from air resistance. On top of that, it no longer has the pushing force of the pressured air behind since that disperses once it exits the barrel. In this scenario, the full force is not going into the launch. Rather, some is going in to push the projectile itself, while the rest escapes the cannon and pushes the air around you. Shorter barrels have the benefit of better maneuverability and portability, but they sacrifice in other areas for these. Combine all this together and you can see how there is a "sweet spot" in terms of barrel length for a given pressure/projectile size/projectile weight/etc. Lots of factors go into ballistics, but it boils down to you want a barrel that is long enough to allow the maximum amount of pushing force to be used for the launch, and not so long that undo drag is placed on the projectile. For maximum distance, ideally the projectile would exit the barrel the instant it stops accelerating. Teams of engineers can do all sorts of math and run all kinds of tests to determine the measurements to use for a given projectile/launcher. I ran some tests way back with tennis balls to try different air pressures, barrel lengths, air tank lengths (volume) etc. It was fun. Perhaps you can set up some experiments with your physics teacher for some extra credit demonstrating how you found the ideal barrel size for several projectiles!
ive had my unit of basically the same design for like just under ten years. all the while it hadnt occured to me to hold it like a launcher letting the trigger point to the ground. i feel dum. i guess i had ruled that out because i was afraid it would slam the trigger into my self from recoil using a 2 inch valve and a 4 inch reserv-o-war. i was filling the barrel with water and letting it report like a shot gun and one time the pvc barrel ruptured in my hand.
I was trying it with the trigger up and it just felt more comfortable this way. A good lesson for anyone though; these things can break catastrophically as mentioned here and in the video. Hope you were okay!
Great question. I wasn't sure of the ideal barrel to reservoir volume ratio, so I did some quick searching to find out if anyone had found it. There's no perfect value since there are all kinds of variables in air cannons, but from sites like tuhsphysics.ttsd.k12.or.us/Research/IB04/HamPunz/index.html and www.spudtech.com/content.asp?id=6, I gathered that anywhere around 1:1 to 1:3 (barrel to reservoir) might be a good place to start. The second site lists 1:1.5 barrel to reservoir volume ratio as the ideal ratio for combustion cannons. It says pneumatic cannons aren't as particular, and there is a point of diminishing returns with larger reservoirs. Eventually, the item being launched has already left the barrel before all of the air is released, meaning wasted power that does nothing while adding to the size of the cannon. 1:1.5 was within the range I seemed to find people mentioning. I then held a pipe on my shoulder to get a feel for overall size, determined that a total length of a bit under 60" would fit the look I wanted. With the 1:1.5 ratio in mind, I ran the numbers on the lengths needed to end up with that. A 20in barrel and 30in chamber left me a bit under 60" and that was to account for the fittings and sprinkler valve. After launching it, it worked well. Plenty of distance while still being manageable. It was good enough for my purposes, so I made the video and left it at that. Keep in mind, though, that this was in no way an exact science. I'm just pulling numbers I found and deciding "yeah, that looks good", and then the tests confirmed it. You can experiment with all kinds of volumes if you want (just remember it's a volume ratio, and to account for different pipe diameters if you used mismatched pipes for the barrel/chamber). I did so with my quad cannon build as I wanted that one to be shorter while still being powerful.
This is the battery that powers both my simple air cannon, and the quad barrel version featured in another video: amzn.to/3LYLh5l Portable and with a decent battery life for projects like this, especially low power solenoids/circuits.
Looks amazing, I don't understand the blow gun section, surely pulling the trigger will direct the air out of the blow gun nozzle rather than through the barrel?
Great question! It would seem so right? Notice that the blow gun is mounted to the sprinkler valve on the side where (internally) the diaphragm contacts the spring. When you pressurize the cannon, you may be able to hear a small amount of air escaping the barrel. This is because it takes time for the air to pass through the small opening in the diaphragm to the spring side of the valve. Eventually, enough air is on the spring side of the valve that the air pressure and spring tension together are able to seal it off since they now overcome atmospheric pressure. When the trigger is first pulled, a small amount of air rushes out through the blow gun as you'd assume. You can feel this by holding your hand in front of the blow gun opening. The thing is, all that tank air pressure wants to equalize as quickly as possible with the atmosphere. When the "flood gates open" from pulling the trigger, all that air tries to rush out at once. Because of the pressure drop from the air exiting the blow gun, the diaphragm opens slightly, providing a second path of exit for the pressurized air. The air then tries to rush out both the blow gun and the barrel simultaneously, but you'll notice that inside the sprinkler valve on the diaphragm itself there is only that small hole for the air to pass through (through the small white plastic piece in the diaphragm). Initially, the only exit for the air was out the blow gun. Now with the diaphragm slightly opened it is easier for the air to pass through the large open barrel than it is to rush through the small opening of the diaphragm and out the blow gun. Pressurized air chooses the path of least resistance and tries to exit as rapidly through the barrel as possible. This causes the diaphragm to be forced open as the air pressure overcomes the spring tension. The air rushes out the barrel in one big burst and the cannon launches. Once the pressure equalizes to atmospheric pressure again, the spring tension resets the diaphragm and the process can repeat. All this is happening in a fraction of a second so it's hard to tell when one "phase" of the action occurs, but that's the order of operations each time you pull the trigger.
Plumber here. We don't air test PVC due to its rigidity, and schedule 40 is used for drain, waste, and vent lines. It's printed "NOT FOR PRESSURE" on the side of all schedule 40 PVC pipe. I know it's commonly used for these without issue, but use schedule 80 if you're going above 5psi air. PVC will fragment when it explodes. Edit: almost all SDR 40 PVC is rated for DWV only. Read the labels first as stated in the video. Missed that part.
An ideal option. My local hardware store had Schedule 40 available, but I'd like to try Schedule 80 at some point. Is Schedule 80 actually pressure rated or is it just safer than Schedule 40 due to the increased thickness?
@@HardwareUnknown schedule 80 is what should be used on any pressurized lines, so basically anything transporting water. Its commonly used for irrigation systems and closed pumped waste systems. A basement ejector pump can use 40 because it's open to the atmosphere and the pipe itself isn't pressurized. I see schedule 40 used all the time for pressurized systems, but I also see them fail ALL THE TIME. It looks like you safely tested the threshold for your pipe, I may have been incorrect in that all schedule 40 is not pressure rated.
@@HardwareUnknown watched this right before going to the hardware store. Looks like my bank account is gonna take a harder hit than previously intended. Thanks!
That's something I was curious about. I looked up pressure ratings for Schedule 40 and they were there, but now I'm curious. There must be different kinds of Schedule 40 (hooray added confusion). I'll have to double check mine to make sure I got the right stuff. Post a video when you build yours! I'm always excited to see people recreate a build of mine. Enjoy, they're a blast to use.
This guy is obviously not a plumber. While pvc, because of liability, is not for air use, it is rated well above the pressures hes using. In fact, 2"schedule 40 pvc is rated @280psi. In the united states, we engineer properly and psi testing is done at the factories.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback, helps me improve my videos for you in the future. Enjoy the build if you make one yourself, and let me know if you have any questions.
I based the design off one used for throw bags! Saw videos of guys using it to get lines for HAM radio over tall objects. They situated their air chamber underneath while I chose behind, but I took a lot of inspiration from them.
I have seen others use a standard ball valve. The benefit of the sprinkler valve is it opens near instantly. The ball valve must be turned manually and thus it opens slower. You'll lose a bit of force using one depending on how fast you open it, but you should still get plenty of distance. Those should be readily available.
Theoretically yes, if you have one capable of withstanding the pressure and not leaking. From my brief search, though, I noticed that a lot of guillotine valves open using a circular handle that turns. My guess is that these require several rotations to fully open. This will take longer to do than the quarter turn of a ball valve, so you will get less power even with a valve of the same diameter due to air leaking out over time rather than exiting all at once. When you're dealing with air cannons, it may seem that the small length of time the air exits is fast, but it can be relatively slow with certain setups causing power loss. Try both! It would be a good experiment to see which works better.
@@HardwareUnknown I have seen some guillotine valves with a pulling mechanism and that seems to be pretty fast but I'm probably going to try them both! Thanks again!
How many shots can you get from say 120 psi? Does your setup allow for air to stay in the chamber for additional shots or does all of air in the chamber escape with one pull of the trigger?
@@Tanmay.Patil1 Legal disclaimer: Asking of questions does not guarantee a reply, whether implied or promised. Video author reserves the right to withhold answers after welcoming questions.
Well thats my bad, I missed the notification for the above comment. Would have replied to it much earlier. My apologies. I use both a bicycle pump and an air compressor depending on where I am and how many times I want to use it.
Huh. Have you done the soapy water test to see if there is a leak? Are you using a manual pump or a compressor? Check to see if air is leaking out of the valve. What might be happening is it gets to 75 psi and that is enough to open the valve, then when the pressure is released and drops, it stops back at 75 and the valve closes.
Is it leaking out the connection between the valve and the adapter? If so, you may need to simply crank it down a bit harder (be careful, you can do this too much, but perhaps it's looser than you think). That, or add some more PTFE tape before tightening.
It's a lot of fun to launch things with. If you want even more power, check out my "How to Make a Quad-Barrel Air Cannon" video... four times the launching capability!
You can tell if the solenoid is working by the click it makes when it activates. The honking is likely from some sort of air leak with the diaphragm. Check to make sure it is oriented and seated properly. There will be a brief moment when air escapes as the chamber pressurizes, but once it is full pressurized the diaphragm should seal and this should stop.
hmm trying to figure out how to combine a compressor filling up 3-4 of these automatically and stopping them at about 40psi and launching them using timing...Any ideas?
You could use a pressure regulator or a 40psi check valve. You could also simply set your compressor's built in regulator to a maximum of 40psi and you'd be set. By launching them using timing, do you mean they would fire a set amount of time after reaching 40psi? You could get real creative with that. For example, you could set up an Arduino that has a current sensor checking the incoming power to the compressor. It will have some general range it's at when the compressor is running. It will have a lower reading if anything when it is idle. You could use this event (the change from high current to low current) as an input to trigger a timer that would then open a solenoid valve after the appropriate time elapsed, triggering the cannons.
The drain valve size doesn't matter. It's used simply for safely discharging the pressure without having to fire the cannon. Any drain valve that allows a controlled release should be fine. The other fittings such as the couplers that attach to the blower handle are simply the size I needed to mount my specific blower handle. They aren't crucial either, so if you find a 1/4" one, a 3/8" one, or similar, you should be good. Same with the gauges. I have both 1/4" and larger size gauges I've used. The only thing that matters much with the metal parts is that they have enough bite in the plastic to seal well. Larger circumference helps somewhat, but the biggest detail is how deep they go into the plastic. You don't want a shallow part... you want the threads to contact all of the two layers of PVC to minimize the chance of leaks.
Edit: You earned a sub. In case the following might be construed as condescending, I want to be clear I’m merely concerned for your safety and hydrostatic testing is standard practice for any work involving pressure vessels. 3:54 Yikes! Use hydrostatic testing for untested pressure vessels! You’re creating an unnecessary explosion hazard by filling with a gas before verifying the structural integrity of the tank.
I didn't construe it as such, your warning is important. People need to know PVC is not "safe" by any means for something like this. I haven't done hydrostatic testing before, but I would like to try it. Especially since eventually I can see welding custom metal containers and those should certainly be tested properly.
Thank you! A few people have asked and while I may sell other things I make in the future, I don't sell these launchers in particular due to potential liability issues. Self builds are at everyone's own risk as explained. Hopefully though, the instructions and relatively inexpensive materials allow you to make your own. Of course, I'm always willing to answer questions if you get stuck.
Hey I was wondering if you could just use the solenoid that comes on the valve in order to actuate it, because I have been trying. Is this true? If so, can you explain how to wire it with a button please. Thank you very much @HardwareUnknown
This is a good question, and one I tried to answer. From my tests, no, at least not easily where it would be worth the time. The reason is because the solenoid it comes with is enclosed. It's meant for water use and doesn't have an exit for air, essentially just a water valve. What that means for us is we don't get the pressure differential necessary to trigger the cannon. That's why I had to make use of a standard solenoid as you see here. Not that it cannot be done, you may be able to find a way by modifying it, but for the effort involved in doing so it was easier for me to simply attach the aftermarket one.
Of course. Let me know if you have any other questions during your build. I can tell you've got a good eye for making things, thinking of how to make use of parts you already have. Can't wait to hear how it works out!
This is cool but simply installing an abs barrel on a tire bead blaster is way more power and way easier and probably safer as its made for repeated use.
How long are you pressurizing the chamber for? Air will briefly leak out of the valve until the pressure builds and seats it. It's a few seconds, enough to think it will constantly leak. If it's continually leaking after 10 seconds though, that's an issue.
@@HardwareUnknownThank you for the reply.. Air was leaking through the small solenoid dumb hole that exits out of the output of the sprinkler valve. I sealed it with a small piece of duct tape from the inside, now it's sealing good no problems.
Ah yeah, I sealed that with epoxy, but hey if duct tape works great. Just make sure it holds well as pressurized air from a small hole like that could do some damage to someone's eye, etc, if they were near it (like while holding it on their shoulder) and the tape failed. No idea if it will or not but just want you safe.
Try 1) checking that all the parts of the valve were put back in the right orientation, and then reassembling it. There could be a gap somewhere where air is rushing past to make a sound, but it can't release it all the air properly for launching. 2) similarly, put some soapy water in a squirt bottle and check all your PVC connections on the reservoir side (using LOW pressure, just enough to see bubbles). The same may be happening there. If thats the case, you'll either have to cut the connection and make a new one with a fresh PVC fitting, or remake the reservoir.
It certainly could, only question is if they will rub on the inside of the barrel and pop before launch. I haven't tried it so I don't know, but if they do pop early you could lubricate the inside with a light coat of biodegradable soap. Thanks so much for watching! I love TKOR. What video was it? I didn't realize one of TKOR's linked to mine and you have me curious now.
@@HardwareUnknown Okay, that makes sense. Your project is similar to his, he also used lubrication on his version, as well as cut up plastic bottles for wads. (I heard that using paper bags tied to a string might work better.) Both designs are great, but I might go with yours since it looks easier and I am trying to make a portable version, like with the battery you used. I'll probably add handles externally somehow. For the video, he made an AK-47 style rifle that can be modified for water balloons. ruclips.net/video/7Z-L4GliAts/видео.html ruclips.net/video/_NaQBvfEGMU/видео.html Check it out and let me know. I might try to do a mixed version, but we'll see.
I'm sure it would work well for confetti, you'd just want to use wadding like tissue paper to keep the confetti from falling backwards into the sprinkler valve.
I can't tell you what an exact failure pressure would be as there are numerous factors that could affect it. What I can say is that you should always assume there is a risk of explosion, because there is. PVC is rated for water pressure, not air. Always wear safety glasses and other gear, and err on the side of caution by using lower pressures. I didn't max out the pressure my air compressor can get to for safety reasons. The exact value was arbitrary, but it's within my comfort zone based on my tests. I encourage you to perform your own for your own safety.
Hi, this is very similar to builds I've done in the past. What's the advantage of drilling out the RainBird and using your own solenoid valve over using the original solenoid?
Excellent question. The original solenoid has lower air flow compared to the one I replaced it with. You're trying to activate the sprinkler valve as quickly as possible so the tank dumps all its air near immediately. That little bit of extra air flow allows the sprinkler valve to activate faster, and you get more power for your launches.
Hey there. Congratulations on your first build. Issues are normal, I had them too when making the video. They're a good learning opportunity. So to confirm, when you begin airing up the tank, it immediately goes through the valve? It will do so for a short time before building up the minimum pressure needed to seal the valve. It will stop shortly after, then begin building further pressure which you can track on the gauge. If it endlessly let's air through, where specifically? You can use sound, or if you can't discern where from sound alone, use a spray bottle of water with a bit of soap in it to check. Lightly spray the potential problem areas and look for bubbles. If air is coming out of the main exit, you may have seated the diaphgram upside down or slightly misaligned and need to open up the valve haves, adjust the diaphragm, and re-close the halves. If air is coming out of the areas where epoxy was added, there may not be enough epoxy to fully seal them. That's a place to start. Let me know if either of those solutions help or not.
@@HardwareUnknown Thanks for your help. That was the problem. Once I filled with air compressor instead of bike pump it worked great. With 95 psi a potato flew 150 ft. Sons are laughing but I did it. Thanks again.
I used a 1/4" NPT tap for the fittings. Here's the one I bought: amzn.to/2U3NyoO All parts/tools are listed in the description in case you need any others as well.
No problem at all. Tap (the verb) means to add screw threads to a hole. You do so using a tap (the noun) which is a metal rod-like tool you see me use that has threads along the bottom of the shaft and a square shank on top for holding it. When you twist this into the plastic, it cuts threads into it for mounting the fittings. For reference, the same term is used when cutting threads into metal. You'll see me use vice grips to hold the tap, but typically you'd have a tap handle with square jaws specifically for holding taps to do so.
I haven't heard of that brand.. Mine is like a car horn. Any horn is great when cars don't pay attention. I'm sure that one would be a great alternative.
No apology needed. Always ask questions on my channel. Interacting with viewers is one of my favorite aspects of RUclips. To confirm, you're talking about the spring within the sprinkler valve, correct? Was it damaged in some way or lost? Either way, if you can find one similar to the original you should be able to. I haven't tried doing so but it should be fine. It should be similar to what was there before as if it's much too hard it could hold the valve closed, and too loose it won't close properly. The nice thing is I assume as long as you match the general size, it's likely close. You can only get so strong a spring in such a small place. Mcmaster.com is a great resource for finding individual parts of particular sizes. You end up with extra parts, and you won't see the shipping price during ordering despite it being billed to you (they typically sell businesses that send invoices rather than simple online individual purchases) but it's always been pretty average for small packages. I've ordered from them a lot.
I appreciate that. I've been folloeing his videos since he got started and he's been a huge inspiration. Glad it shows through. Thank you for watching and sharing your thoughts!
That looks like a reproduction or re-release of the patti platypus beanie baby. I sincerely hope I'm right, i had to open the video and get a closer look. An original series patti is one of the very few that ever actually held value. Worth thousands. Makes me wonder if it was an intentional or coincidental choice for the thumbnail. Cool video!
Perhaps it is, I'm not sure. I've never collected anything for the purpose of selling it later. I wouldn't know how to have identify if so. It didn't have tags and was just one I found in the attic. One that was certainly in good but not mint condition before. Regardless, it was played with before, and I had fun with it here, so it's served it's purpose one way or another. If it was an original, it's certainly not selling for much now! XD Glad you enjoyed.
@@HardwareUnknown Without the tags in the first place it was worthless. Crazy to think it might be an original, it's hard to tell over a video which color it is exactly since the colors are so similar and video color isn't always the same as reality. It'd have to be 30 years old if it were an original though.
Yeah, with the tags off I knew it wouldn't be worth anything. I remember looking it up on eBay back then just to check, but the ones like mine without tags were listed for $20 or less. At that point, knowing nothing else about beanie baby collecting, I was confident enough to send it airborne. 😆
Of course, I took it as curiosity and conversation, nothing negative. Always looking to learn things I don't know, and thanks for taking the time to reply and check out the video!
Very cool, but you should not use schedule 40 pvc. I can and will explode. Air pressure and water pressure is not the same for pipe, especially pvc. This should be done with at least schedule 80 cpvc or threaded iron pipe. I cannot test PVC pipe with air according to the Universal Plumbing Code because it can be extremely dangerous.
That's good to know. Everywhere I read mentioned be sure to use Schedule 40 over Class 200, but if 80 is the way to go I'll have to try a build with that. I had looked up pressure ratings for Schedule 40 PVC pipe which made me think (knowing the risks of course) that it would be reasonably reliable. If that's not the case, I'll need to change that. Are you saying that Schedule 80 is specifically rated for air? Or is it just an additional margin of safety? Great to hear the facts from an actual plumber.
Yes, and while the weight would increase, it would be safer than PVC due to its strength. I've seen some makers create theirs out of metal pipe for this reason. A great option, for sure.
PVC is not designed for holding air, so there are inherent risks that you cannot ever fully eliminate when using it with air. A metal cannon would be stronger and thus safer if built right (although all cannons can cause injury or damage in some form). It's a risk I knew going in though, and I keep the pressure relatively low as a precaution. Still, PVC can fail during use with air, and anyone making a cannon like this needs to know that, hence the in-video warnings.
It so is... I regret nothing. Thanks bud! Simple build in preparation for another (several TikTok requests for it too) and I wanted to try my hand at improving my editing/step-by-step tutorial skills. As always, I appreciate the support.
Not counting tools, I was able to get all the items mentioned for about $75 from Home Depot and Harbor Freight. If you order online it could be slightly more, but I believe you should be able to get it all for under $100.
@@HardwareUnknown My Home Depot charged a little more than that. Everything came in around 100 bucks. Also, regarding safety, I read on this spudfiles website that anything marked NSF-PW is safe to use. The PW stands for potable water, which is under 70psi. Everything I bought was marked as such. And on top of that, I've heard the fiber tape can protect against the chamber shattering as it allegedly holds everything in.
Ah yeah, I forget I don't have sales tax here so that explains the price jump at HD. A word of warning, and you probably already got this from the video but just to reiterate: no matter the markings, no matter the schedule #, all PVC won't be fully "safe" when used this way. The reason is because of that shattering you mention. Metal, on the other hand, yields and cracks to release pressure. Plus, since air is compressible, the physics are different than water. Granted, schedule 40 PVC or even 80 is thicker than others making it stronger, but it bears remembering to always be careful as this isn't the intended purpose for PVC. My recommendation is to know your limits and wear safety gear like eye protection just in case. Again, maybe you know this, but when I hear someone say their PVC is "safe", I always want them to prepare. Make the cannon, for sure, just know the risks. Enjoy, and let me know how your build turns out!
@@HardwareUnknown Yeah, you know, looking into it, I think I'm going to return everything and build it using a different material. We're building this cannon for a school project meaning we'll be in around testing this thing for months. So the event of an explosion seems a lot more like an inevitability rather than just a possibility. It seems like a really cool project for just messing around a couple times, but considering my use case, I really don't want anyone getting hurt.
That's a smart move. Keeping the pressure low with PVC makes it less likely, and I leave a good margin. It can happen though, so if you're doing it for a school project it'd be smart to make it out of metal. Plus you have lots of test time. Before settling on PVC since it's just for my use, I went to a fire extinguisher repair facility and they gave me empty vessels. Those could work as they're already pressure tested. You'd just need the threaded adapters which admittedly I could not find. However, I didn't spend too long on looking for what threading it was.
OMG...that's awesome...you have to grow this channel bigger and bigger... You deserve more than 100K subscribers...and of course I have to subscribe this great channel...great
Thanks so much for the compliment and the sub! Makes all the work worthwhile when I hear my viewers enjoying my videos. Looking forward to future growth of the channel. Speaking of which, if you enjoyed this project... you'll definitely enjoy the next one. 😉
I cannot advise on this as each cannon will be different. Anything shot at a human has the potential for serious injury and should have regulators in place to prevent "hot" shooting (ie. Too much power, with more potential for iniury). A stuffed animal may seem soft, but it can still hit someone in the eye, possibly with a piece of unseen plastic. Depending on numerous factors including pressure, volume, and more, a particular projectile will have a different impact (literally). As my design does not have a regulator and has not undergone professional testing, I do not recommend it be shot at humans. Personally, I leave that to my paintball markers while wearing proper safety gear.
Oh man, so sorry I missed this comment. I try to reply to every one and this one slipped past. I don't know what size PVC pipe/fittings are used in the european market, so it's hard to comment on those exactly, however I'll tell you that the sizing isn't too critical. The more important thing would be the pipe thickness for safety. For a baseline though, the main pipe is about 5cm in diameter, the barrel is about 51cm long and the tank is about 76cm long. The pipe I used is about 4mm thick. The fittings are just over 6mm. Hopefully that helps you out, let me know if there is anything more you'd like to know and I can find them out.
When I was a kid there was this toy called an Airzooka. It was basically that. You would pull back on an elastic strap tied to a flexible plastic cover over the end of a plastic tube with a handle. When you released the handle the plastic cover would snap forward from the elastic and it would launch a sort of ball of air wherever you aimed at. It was fun to play tag with them.
I'd say so. The PVC connections all involve the same procedure to glue them, and the valve needs a few modifications. Sure there are even simpler designs, but there are also more complex ones. Everyone's comfort will be different so for some this would be trivial and other's it would be an advanced project. It's all relative. If you're building something though and learning along the way, you're doing a good thing no matter your current skill/comfort level.
When that hotdog stuck to the wall... Amazing. Great project and video.
Out of all the launches I've done, the hotdog was one of my favorites. It split AND stuck, and I couldn't stop laughing. I love this thing. So glad you enjoyed!
@@HardwareUnknown do you have a slow mo video of flying Jeff?
@@isabellacassidy4108 Hi Isabella, I just gathered up all my footage of Jeff and compiled it together for you, complete with multiple slow motion speeds. You can find it here: www.patreon.com/posts/jeffs-astronaut-58166474
It's posted on my Patreon to give viewers a glimpse of what they get as a Patron of mine, however I've made it a public post so there is no cost for you to watch it.
Enjoy!
😢😮😮
@@HardwareUnknown 😅they 😢😊😅😅😅has 😢
I made this for my schools physics fair. Awesome instructions and thanks for the parts list in the description. Everything turned out great
My face lit up reading this. I'm delighted you created one for the fair. Keep at it... you'll go far creating things like this, as well as your own unique devices. Whether it's as a hobby, or you want to be an engineer, always keep learning about science. It's incredibly useful, and dare I say... a blast.
this is sick. i had a buddy who made one these when we was kids. we used to shoot cans out that thing lol
We did too we used to take our boats out on the lake and literally have a blast shooting cans of beer at each other. Produced a few good injuries too. We also got a jet skier dude by accident. If ya got a boat with a nice paint job I wouldn't suggest this activity and the cops around here really frown on the antics big time.
Outstanding video!!
I'm a ham radio operator and have used various methods (slingshots attached to fishing poles & reels, et. al.) over the years to launch feeder lines over trees which I then use to hoist heavier support lines to pull up wire antennas.
My current location has many 80+' pine trees which are far too high for the old slingshot approach.
I needed a new method and these pneumatic guns are the answer. Used one owned by my local radio club & at 40psi it easily cleared an 80' pine using a 2" long by 1½" diameter section of PVC with endcaps as "ammo" tied to braided fishing line on a large kite spool. Worked like a charm.
Your video is very clear, well-scripted, gets right to the point without small-talk, & your straightforward step-by-step is easy to follow.
The precautions & safety measures are critical too - these things can be deadly if not assembled correctly or if fired indiscriminately. Don't point at anything you don't intend to shoot - even when not charged/loaded.
The build is a very simple, uncomplicated build & you even provided the parts list!!
Couldn't be any more perfect.
I may have to build this version just for fun,
Many thanks - great job.
Many kind words; they mean a lot. I'm delighted you enjoyed the build!
While designing my launcher I came across several radio operators who made their own versions. They often used curved sections of PVC to keep the launchers compact, which I thought was smart. However, I wanted mine to be as close to the absolute simplest build possible. No spacers for the curved sections, all parts easily available, etc. Plus I prefer the air blower handle as opposed to a 1/4 turn valve to operate the thing.
That's a creative use of PVC as the ammo. I've seen the purpose-made weighted beanbags for launching lines, but as you can imagine I enjoy DIY solutions too. This thing definitely gets some distance with beanie babies, so I'm sure it could work for launching pull lines. That, or just sending things off into the distance for the heck of it. I've had a lot of fun with mine.
Let me know how the build goes if you decide to make it!
Now days we have drones for that stuff.
My neighbors have since called the cops on me three separate times.
Us: Excuse me I'm doing science.
Police vehicles: Let me sing you the song of my people.
Quite the harmony to the percussion of these cannons. Stay safe!
Clear , Launch !
You win!
Lol. What such thing were you doing? Were you shooting at the neighbours 😂😂
Seriously they called on you over that? Like he said ^ were you shooting it at them lol I had my neighbor call the cops on me for sighting a 9mm and I only have a couple neighbors I live on 29 acres a shoot at the farthest end from them plus I’m shooting downhill into an 8” pile on soil. That led to a confrontation not a heated one more so me telling hi
He was an asshole for that and he called again on me so I want to build this so I can play with it in peace plus I like building stuff I have a flamethrower and a small jet engine made from propane and a turbo it’s craazy. I hope everyone has a good no cop time with it 😊
Your channel is going to blow up soon, I'm calling it right now. This is one of the best tutorial videos I have ever seen. Thank you!!
I really appreciate that. I've been on a quite the hiatus, and look forward to getting back into and seeing where it can go. Thanks for the support, I'm so glad you enjoy! Let me know if you Hve any questions during your build.
When your ready to get back in the game I want to get with you on future projects! @@HardwareUnknown
I feel it tooo
This is more useful than I could ask for, now imma go built the Schwerer Gustav for my school project. Great video!
Good luck! Stay safe, have fun, and learn a lot. I'm sure it'll be a hit at your school.
Cool video. Good advice on testing at ascending pressures.
Thank you. Whenever I'm working with something where safety is a concern, I try to do a similar test process. Good advice for new makers, I feel. Thanks for noticing.
I was having an issue with the sprinkler valve getting stuck open after a couple rounds of firing. I unscrewed the valve and put it back together and this fixed it temporarily but eventually it got stuck open again. After that I removed the brass fittings and just screwed the blow gun directly into the sprinkler valve and that fixed it. I’m not sure if it was just misaligned the other two times or what but I have not had any problems since. Really easy and fun project.
So glad you enjoyed it and went through with the build! I'm not exactly sure what is going on there, but what could be happening is the brass fittings are screwed in very deep into the valve. This could be preventing the diaphragm from fully seating itself to shut off the valve. Why this would happen only after a few shots, I'm unsure. Perhaps try taking the valve apart, adding the brass fitting, and inspecting it (with no pressure, unassembled from the PVC) to see if this is the case. If so, maybe some of the brass can be ground down so it still provides the same hold in the valve, but extends slightly less into it.
This inspired me to make an M9A1 bazooka (non-explosive firing) for my WW2 film. Thank you very much!
Love it. Send me the link when you post the final cut!
Thanks for the information I've been looking for a potato cannon that I could dress up to look like a thunder spear from attack on Titan. And the blowgun trigger makes it look exactly like in the anime.
i made an air gun out of black metal pipes and can hold up to 4500 psi and is lethal and fun too, but you inject air with pcp 8mm adapter valve, also i loaded steel ammos and can penetrate through concrete wall
I'm wondering about building one to work on the same principal as a dieseled air rifle you think it'd work?
Can you explain please how the trigger makes the valve open? This is the only piece i need now before my build
Of course, it's a great question.
Notice that the blow gun is mounted to the sprinkler valve on the side where (internally) the diaphragm contacts the spring. When you pressurize the cannon, you may be able to hear a small amount of air escaping the barrel. This is because it takes time for the air to pass through the small opening in the diaphragm to the spring side of the valve. Eventually, enough air is on the spring side of the valve that the air pressure and spring tension together are able to seal it off since they now overcome atmospheric pressure.
When the trigger is first pulled, a small amount of air rushes out through the blow gun as you'd assume. You can feel this by holding your hand in front of the blow gun opening. The thing is, all that tank air pressure wants to equalize as quickly as possible with the atmosphere. When the "flood gates open" from pulling the trigger, all that air tries to rush out at once. Because of the pressure drop from the air exiting the blow gun, the diaphragm opens slightly, providing a second path of exit for the pressurized air.
The air then tries to rush out both the blow gun and the barrel simultaneously, but you'll notice that inside the sprinkler valve on the diaphragm itself there is only that small hole for the air to pass through (through the small white plastic piece in the diaphragm). Initially, the only exit for the air was out the blow gun. Now with the diaphragm slightly opened it is easier for the air to pass through the large open barrel than it is to rush through the small opening of the diaphragm and out the blow gun.
Pressurized air chooses the path of least resistance and tries to exit as rapidly through the barrel as possible. This causes the diaphragm to be forced open as the air pressure overcomes the spring tension. The air rushes out the barrel in one big burst and the cannon launches. Once the pressure equalizes to atmospheric pressure again, the spring tension resets the diaphragm and the process can repeat.
All this is happening in a fraction of a second so it's hard to tell when one "phase" of the action occurs, but that's the order of operations each time you pull the trigger.
@@HardwareUnknown wow! Thanks for your great answer!
I hope it will work, anything you think I should be careful with?
I know I've mentioned it in the video but please pay attention to the warnings. It's a risk pressurizing PVC as its not intended for it, so while nothing can be fully safe when doing so, err on the side of caution and use lower pressures.
As for the build itself, make sure you take your time to fully seal the sprinkler valve as shown, and properly seat the diaphragm when you reassemble it. Air leaks are the most common issue you will see with this, and even more so with the valve as its more complex than simply gluing PVC together.
Can it shot a snow ball?
This is an exceptional tutorial. THANK YOU
I appreciate it! Let me know if you have any questions while building yours.
What’s the price range for this project assuming you have the required tools?
Assuming the required tools, I purchased everything for about $80-85. That's in a place with no sales tax. Another viewer built the cannon and paid sales tax, plus different cost of goods, and I believe they said it was in the $110-120 range. Plan a bit over $100 and I think that's a safe bet.
Top notch work. You earned a sub!
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed, and thanks for watching.
Can I use the tape to widen the cut 1” pipe if it doesn’t fit? I’d like to thank you again for answering all of my questions
It's my pleasure. I made the channel so I could interact with people, after all!
Help me understand, so you cut the 1in pipe in order to assemble the large coupler to the threaded adapter, and the 1in pipe is too loose inside one of those fittings?
@@HardwareUnknown yeah
Thanks for clarifying. I'm glad to hear you're looking at solutions on the fly, as is the way of making. However, using tape as you suggest would be very dangerous. The reason being is that enough air pressure could unseat the tape, as it would just be a friction fit. This could cause the cannon halves to launch apart, damaging and or injuring someone.
Remember, this build has inherent risk no matter the design. The PVC pipes *must* be chemically welded using PVC cement to mitigate this as much as possible. Tape will eventually fail. I'm sorry it's an extra step to take, but it's the right way to go for your safety and that of others. Plus your cannon will last with proper chemical welds. You'll need to return to the hardware store and find fittings/pipe that are compatible.
@@HardwareUnknown thanks! Glad I didn’t end up doing that
Edit: Just figured out the “1 inch piping” was actually 3/4 inch.
Glad you asked! Ah yeah that makes sense. Thankfully pipes only come in several sizes, with 1/4" between the smaller sizes. Some can look similar until you've worked with them a lot.
Bro perfect Video and perfect for people with no experience u deserve way more followers definitely got my sub😎
Thank you so much for your support! Many videos I watch (about both air cannons and general DIY) skip over a lot. If it's for entertainment only, that's one thing. If it's for teaching people how to actually build the device, however, that's another. I wanted to take all the information I learned and present it so anyone can build one themselves even without prior building experience like you mentioned. I'm glad it hit the mark.
@@HardwareUnknown 💪😎
Brilliant creation! I used this for my physics project. But the problem is I’m not sure if the length of the barrel affects the distance and accuracy? Does the things inside go further with shorter barrel or longer barrel? Does it become more accurate with longer barrels?
I'm delighted you made it yourself for your physics class! How'd your build go?
This is a fantastic question and one I looked into back when I played paintball. The thing about a projectile in a barrel is that it's not flying absolutely straight in line with the barrel. It rattles around in there to some degree. How well the size is matched to the barrel will influence this. Too small, and the projectile can move a lot (relatively) creating odd spin as it touches the barrel walls (more noticeable on spherical projectiles like paintballs), and also decreasing the potential velocity as air escapes around it. Too large, and the projectile will experience excess drag against the inside of the barrel, slowing it down.
The length of the barrel also comes into play like you're suggesting. A longer barrel will tend to be more accurate as the projectile has more time to orient its flight along the barrel's axis. However, the longer the barrel the more collisions/drag it experiences (imagine a 100ft air cannon, the projectile may not even make it out the end).
A shorter barrel will tend to be less accurate as there is less time to orient the projectile, and if you go too short, it will actually slow it down too. The reason being is once the projectile exits and is in the air, it's experiencing a lot more drag from air resistance. On top of that, it no longer has the pushing force of the pressured air behind since that disperses once it exits the barrel. In this scenario, the full force is not going into the launch. Rather, some is going in to push the projectile itself, while the rest escapes the cannon and pushes the air around you. Shorter barrels have the benefit of better maneuverability and portability, but they sacrifice in other areas for these.
Combine all this together and you can see how there is a "sweet spot" in terms of barrel length for a given pressure/projectile size/projectile weight/etc. Lots of factors go into ballistics, but it boils down to you want a barrel that is long enough to allow the maximum amount of pushing force to be used for the launch, and not so long that undo drag is placed on the projectile. For maximum distance, ideally the projectile would exit the barrel the instant it stops accelerating.
Teams of engineers can do all sorts of math and run all kinds of tests to determine the measurements to use for a given projectile/launcher. I ran some tests way back with tennis balls to try different air pressures, barrel lengths, air tank lengths (volume) etc. It was fun. Perhaps you can set up some experiments with your physics teacher for some extra credit demonstrating how you found the ideal barrel size for several projectiles!
ive had my unit of basically the same design for like just under ten years. all the while it hadnt occured to me to hold it like a launcher letting the trigger point to the ground. i feel dum. i guess i had ruled that out because i was afraid it would slam the trigger into my self from recoil using a 2 inch valve and a 4 inch reserv-o-war. i was filling the barrel with water and letting it report like a shot gun and one time the pvc barrel ruptured in my hand.
I was trying it with the trigger up and it just felt more comfortable this way. A good lesson for anyone though; these things can break catastrophically as mentioned here and in the video. Hope you were okay!
Can you comment on why you went with a 30inch res, and a 20 inch barrel?
Great question. I wasn't sure of the ideal barrel to reservoir volume ratio, so I did some quick searching to find out if anyone had found it. There's no perfect value since there are all kinds of variables in air cannons, but from sites like tuhsphysics.ttsd.k12.or.us/Research/IB04/HamPunz/index.html and www.spudtech.com/content.asp?id=6, I gathered that anywhere around 1:1 to 1:3 (barrel to reservoir) might be a good place to start.
The second site lists 1:1.5 barrel to reservoir volume ratio as the ideal ratio for combustion cannons. It says pneumatic cannons aren't as particular, and there is a point of diminishing returns with larger reservoirs. Eventually, the item being launched has already left the barrel before all of the air is released, meaning wasted power that does nothing while adding to the size of the cannon.
1:1.5 was within the range I seemed to find people mentioning. I then held a pipe on my shoulder to get a feel for overall size, determined that a total length of a bit under 60" would fit the look I wanted. With the 1:1.5 ratio in mind, I ran the numbers on the lengths needed to end up with that. A 20in barrel and 30in chamber left me a bit under 60" and that was to account for the fittings and sprinkler valve.
After launching it, it worked well. Plenty of distance while still being manageable. It was good enough for my purposes, so I made the video and left it at that. Keep in mind, though, that this was in no way an exact science. I'm just pulling numbers I found and deciding "yeah, that looks good", and then the tests confirmed it. You can experiment with all kinds of volumes if you want (just remember it's a volume ratio, and to account for different pipe diameters if you used mismatched pipes for the barrel/chamber). I did so with my quad cannon build as I wanted that one to be shorter while still being powerful.
@@HardwareUnknown fantastic reply! Thank you!!!
Do you reckon you could place the air tank below the barrel and connect it with some elbow pvc.
Keep making videos, very good production value
Thank you so much, I'm still new to it all and a lot goes into each one. I appreciate you noticing. Lot's more to come!
Do you have a link to the power source you use for the solenoid?
This is the battery that powers both my simple air cannon, and the quad barrel version featured in another video: amzn.to/3LYLh5l
Portable and with a decent battery life for projects like this, especially low power solenoids/circuits.
if i have another school break 8m gonna try to start making a RAK-12 Rocket Artillery version of this air cannon!
Looks amazing, I don't understand the blow gun section, surely pulling the trigger will direct the air out of the blow gun nozzle rather than through the barrel?
Great question! It would seem so right?
Notice that the blow gun is mounted to the sprinkler valve on the side where (internally) the diaphragm contacts the spring. When you pressurize the cannon, you may be able to hear a small amount of air escaping the barrel. This is because it takes time for the air to pass through the small opening in the diaphragm to the spring side of the valve. Eventually, enough air is on the spring side of the valve that the air pressure and spring tension together are able to seal it off since they now overcome atmospheric pressure.
When the trigger is first pulled, a small amount of air rushes out through the blow gun as you'd assume. You can feel this by holding your hand in front of the blow gun opening. The thing is, all that tank air pressure wants to equalize as quickly as possible with the atmosphere. When the "flood gates open" from pulling the trigger, all that air tries to rush out at once. Because of the pressure drop from the air exiting the blow gun, the diaphragm opens slightly, providing a second path of exit for the pressurized air.
The air then tries to rush out both the blow gun and the barrel simultaneously, but you'll notice that inside the sprinkler valve on the diaphragm itself there is only that small hole for the air to pass through (through the small white plastic piece in the diaphragm). Initially, the only exit for the air was out the blow gun. Now with the diaphragm slightly opened it is easier for the air to pass through the large open barrel than it is to rush through the small opening of the diaphragm and out the blow gun.
Pressurized air chooses the path of least resistance and tries to exit as rapidly through the barrel as possible. This causes the diaphragm to be forced open as the air pressure overcomes the spring tension. The air rushes out the barrel in one big burst and the cannon launches. Once the pressure equalizes to atmospheric pressure again, the spring tension resets the diaphragm and the process can repeat.
All this is happening in a fraction of a second so it's hard to tell when one "phase" of the action occurs, but that's the order of operations each time you pull the trigger.
@@HardwareUnknown yep makes sense now, thanks for taking the time to reply, a great explanation very detailed .
Plumber here. We don't air test PVC due to its rigidity, and schedule 40 is used for drain, waste, and vent lines. It's printed "NOT FOR PRESSURE" on the side of all schedule 40 PVC pipe.
I know it's commonly used for these without issue, but use schedule 80 if you're going above 5psi air. PVC will fragment when it explodes.
Edit: almost all SDR 40 PVC is rated for DWV only. Read the labels first as stated in the video. Missed that part.
An ideal option. My local hardware store had Schedule 40 available, but I'd like to try Schedule 80 at some point. Is Schedule 80 actually pressure rated or is it just safer than Schedule 40 due to the increased thickness?
@@HardwareUnknown schedule 80 is what should be used on any pressurized lines, so basically anything transporting water. Its commonly used for irrigation systems and closed pumped waste systems. A basement ejector pump can use 40 because it's open to the atmosphere and the pipe itself isn't pressurized.
I see schedule 40 used all the time for pressurized systems, but I also see them fail ALL THE TIME. It looks like you safely tested the threshold for your pipe, I may have been incorrect in that all schedule 40 is not pressure rated.
@@HardwareUnknown watched this right before going to the hardware store. Looks like my bank account is gonna take a harder hit than previously intended. Thanks!
That's something I was curious about. I looked up pressure ratings for Schedule 40 and they were there, but now I'm curious. There must be different kinds of Schedule 40 (hooray added confusion). I'll have to double check mine to make sure I got the right stuff.
Post a video when you build yours! I'm always excited to see people recreate a build of mine. Enjoy, they're a blast to use.
This guy is obviously not a plumber. While pvc, because of liability, is not for air use, it is rated well above the pressures hes using. In fact, 2"schedule 40 pvc is rated @280psi. In the united states, we engineer properly and psi testing is done at the factories.
Nice video dude! Great pacing, cool tips, and fun. Well done
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback, helps me improve my videos for you in the future. Enjoy the build if you make one yourself, and let me know if you have any questions.
@@HardwareUnknown Yeah I built one (for throw bags), but it's much less elegant than yours :)
I based the design off one used for throw bags! Saw videos of guys using it to get lines for HAM radio over tall objects. They situated their air chamber underneath while I chose behind, but I took a lot of inspiration from them.
Can you use anything else than a sprinkler valve? I'm having a hard time finding similar one where I live.
I have seen others use a standard ball valve. The benefit of the sprinkler valve is it opens near instantly. The ball valve must be turned manually and thus it opens slower. You'll lose a bit of force using one depending on how fast you open it, but you should still get plenty of distance. Those should be readily available.
@@HardwareUnknown Thanks for answering! I'll probably try it with the ball valve. Though could it work with a guillotine valve?
Theoretically yes, if you have one capable of withstanding the pressure and not leaking. From my brief search, though, I noticed that a lot of guillotine valves open using a circular handle that turns. My guess is that these require several rotations to fully open. This will take longer to do than the quarter turn of a ball valve, so you will get less power even with a valve of the same diameter due to air leaking out over time rather than exiting all at once. When you're dealing with air cannons, it may seem that the small length of time the air exits is fast, but it can be relatively slow with certain setups causing power loss. Try both! It would be a good experiment to see which works better.
@@HardwareUnknown I have seen some guillotine valves with a pulling mechanism and that seems to be pretty fast but I'm probably going to try them both! Thanks again!
My pleasure, thanks for watching and good luck on your build! Let me know how it turns out.
How many shots can you get from say 120 psi? Does your setup allow for air to stay in the chamber for additional shots or does all of air in the chamber escape with one pull of the trigger?
My apologies for the delay. This setup is good for a single shot as there is no means to partition or otherwise partially release the air reliably.
Is the 2” pipe in the parts list at the beginning of the
Hey, the comment cut off, can you edit it to add what's missing? I want to be able to give you a proper answer.
Such a great video! I also saw the other cannon videos and they were all just as good
Thank you for checking them out! Best of luck to you if you decide to make your own, and feel free to ask me any questions you have.
@@HardwareUnknown How did you pump air into the cannon?
@@Tanmay.Patil1 Legal disclaimer: Asking of questions does not guarantee a reply, whether implied or promised. Video author reserves the right to withhold answers after welcoming questions.
@@snozzlehead92 Ok Lmao
Well thats my bad, I missed the notification for the above comment. Would have replied to it much earlier. My apologies. I use both a bicycle pump and an air compressor depending on where I am and how many times I want to use it.
I can only get mine to about 75psi then it stops, I used the exact measurements you provided. Do you know why that would be?
Huh. Have you done the soapy water test to see if there is a leak? Are you using a manual pump or a compressor? Check to see if air is leaking out of the valve. What might be happening is it gets to 75 psi and that is enough to open the valve, then when the pressure is released and drops, it stops back at 75 and the valve closes.
also when i pump air into mine, the sprinkler valve is leaking air from the front, idk what to do can you help?
Is it leaking out the connection between the valve and the adapter? If so, you may need to simply crank it down a bit harder (be careful, you can do this too much, but perhaps it's looser than you think). That, or add some more PTFE tape before tightening.
Quick question, is it wise to use pvc cement instead of Teflon tape to seal the values? To make it more sealed?
That's an option and would work fine. The reason I didn't is in case I want to change something. If you don't plan on that, go ahead and cement it.
Powerful cannon ❤️❤️❤️
It's a lot of fun to launch things with. If you want even more power, check out my "How to Make a Quad-Barrel Air Cannon" video... four times the launching capability!
How did you get the solenoid to work? I just get a honking noise when I use it
You can tell if the solenoid is working by the click it makes when it activates. The honking is likely from some sort of air leak with the diaphragm. Check to make sure it is oriented and seated properly. There will be a brief moment when air escapes as the chamber pressurizes, but once it is full pressurized the diaphragm should seal and this should stop.
@ thank you :) I got a larger solenoid unit and it helped out :)
hmm trying to figure out how to combine a compressor filling up 3-4 of these automatically and stopping them at about 40psi and launching them using timing...Any ideas?
You could use a pressure regulator or a 40psi check valve. You could also simply set your compressor's built in regulator to a maximum of 40psi and you'd be set. By launching them using timing, do you mean they would fire a set amount of time after reaching 40psi? You could get real creative with that.
For example, you could set up an Arduino that has a current sensor checking the incoming power to the compressor. It will have some general range it's at when the compressor is running. It will have a lower reading if anything when it is idle. You could use this event (the change from high current to low current) as an input to trigger a timer that would then open a solenoid valve after the appropriate time elapsed, triggering the cannons.
I’m digging the Unabomber look dude…😂🤣😂
Does the drain valve size matter? Along with the other metal fittings?
The drain valve size doesn't matter. It's used simply for safely discharging the pressure without having to fire the cannon. Any drain valve that allows a controlled release should be fine.
The other fittings such as the couplers that attach to the blower handle are simply the size I needed to mount my specific blower handle. They aren't crucial either, so if you find a 1/4" one, a 3/8" one, or similar, you should be good. Same with the gauges. I have both 1/4" and larger size gauges I've used.
The only thing that matters much with the metal parts is that they have enough bite in the plastic to seal well. Larger circumference helps somewhat, but the biggest detail is how deep they go into the plastic. You don't want a shallow part... you want the threads to contact all of the two layers of PVC to minimize the chance of leaks.
Edit: You earned a sub. In case the following might be construed as condescending, I want to be clear I’m merely concerned for your safety and hydrostatic testing is standard practice for any work involving pressure vessels.
3:54 Yikes! Use hydrostatic testing for untested pressure vessels! You’re creating an unnecessary explosion hazard by filling with a gas before verifying the structural integrity of the tank.
I didn't construe it as such, your warning is important. People need to know PVC is not "safe" by any means for something like this. I haven't done hydrostatic testing before, but I would like to try it. Especially since eventually I can see welding custom metal containers and those should certainly be tested properly.
great video! you got any for sale?
Thank you! A few people have asked and while I may sell other things I make in the future, I don't sell these launchers in particular due to potential liability issues. Self builds are at everyone's own risk as explained. Hopefully though, the instructions and relatively inexpensive materials allow you to make your own. Of course, I'm always willing to answer questions if you get stuck.
Hey I was wondering if you could just use the solenoid that comes on the valve in order to actuate it, because I have been trying. Is this true? If so, can you explain how to wire it with a button please. Thank you very much @HardwareUnknown
This is a good question, and one I tried to answer. From my tests, no, at least not easily where it would be worth the time. The reason is because the solenoid it comes with is enclosed. It's meant for water use and doesn't have an exit for air, essentially just a water valve. What that means for us is we don't get the pressure differential necessary to trigger the cannon. That's why I had to make use of a standard solenoid as you see here. Not that it cannot be done, you may be able to find a way by modifying it, but for the effort involved in doing so it was easier for me to simply attach the aftermarket one.
Ok, thank you so much!@@HardwareUnknown
Of course. Let me know if you have any other questions during your build. I can tell you've got a good eye for making things, thinking of how to make use of parts you already have. Can't wait to hear how it works out!
That not true lol I’m just broke and lazy@@HardwareUnknown
This is cool but simply installing an abs barrel on a tire bead blaster is way more power and way easier and probably safer as its made for repeated use.
Thank you for the video. I made the exact same cannon using the same parts but some air is leaking out of the barrel. Any thoughts?
How long are you pressurizing the chamber for? Air will briefly leak out of the valve until the pressure builds and seats it. It's a few seconds, enough to think it will constantly leak. If it's continually leaking after 10 seconds though, that's an issue.
@@HardwareUnknownThank you for the reply.. Air was leaking through the small solenoid dumb hole that exits out of the output of the sprinkler valve. I sealed it with a small piece of duct tape from the inside, now it's sealing good no problems.
Ah yeah, I sealed that with epoxy, but hey if duct tape works great. Just make sure it holds well as pressurized air from a small hole like that could do some damage to someone's eye, etc, if they were near it (like while holding it on their shoulder) and the tape failed. No idea if it will or not but just want you safe.
This is perfect for launching confetti
Genuine question, why not just use a regular solenoid valve?
Using the sprinkler valve allows me to have the manual option with the trigger handle, and I wanted both configurations.
So I made this and it just sounds like an air horn every time, any idea why?
Try 1) checking that all the parts of the valve were put back in the right orientation, and then reassembling it. There could be a gap somewhere where air is rushing past to make a sound, but it can't release it all the air properly for launching. 2) similarly, put some soapy water in a squirt bottle and check all your PVC connections on the reservoir side (using LOW pressure, just enough to see bubbles). The same may be happening there. If thats the case, you'll either have to cut the connection and make a new one with a fresh PVC fitting, or remake the reservoir.
I came from the TKOR video, this is a great project. I was wondering, could it fire water balloons?
It certainly could, only question is if they will rub on the inside of the barrel and pop before launch. I haven't tried it so I don't know, but if they do pop early you could lubricate the inside with a light coat of biodegradable soap.
Thanks so much for watching! I love TKOR. What video was it? I didn't realize one of TKOR's linked to mine and you have me curious now.
@@HardwareUnknown Okay, that makes sense. Your project is similar to his, he also used lubrication on his version, as well as cut up plastic bottles for wads. (I heard that using paper bags tied to a string might work better.) Both designs are great, but I might go with yours since it looks easier and I am trying to make a portable version, like with the battery you used. I'll probably add handles externally somehow.
For the video, he made an AK-47 style rifle that can be modified for water balloons.
ruclips.net/video/7Z-L4GliAts/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/_NaQBvfEGMU/видео.html
Check it out and let me know. I might try to do a mixed version, but we'll see.
Amazing performance
hi is it good for confetti please? thanks
I'm sure it would work well for confetti, you'd just want to use wadding like tissue paper to keep the confetti from falling backwards into the sprinkler valve.
Is there a risk that the pvc will explode if the pressure is about 150psi???
I can't tell you what an exact failure pressure would be as there are numerous factors that could affect it. What I can say is that you should always assume there is a risk of explosion, because there is. PVC is rated for water pressure, not air.
Always wear safety glasses and other gear, and err on the side of caution by using lower pressures. I didn't max out the pressure my air compressor can get to for safety reasons. The exact value was arbitrary, but it's within my comfort zone based on my tests. I encourage you to perform your own for your own safety.
Thank you!! Have a nice day!!
what sprinkler valve did you use
It's a Rain Bird sprinkler valve. There should be a link in the description to find the same one. Let me know if you can't access it.
Longer barrel!
Use a air hose fitting to pressurize rather than tire valve.
What size should the metal parts be?
Do you mean the diameter of the fittings?
Hi, this is very similar to builds I've done in the past. What's the advantage of drilling out the RainBird and using your own solenoid valve over using the original solenoid?
Excellent question. The original solenoid has lower air flow compared to the one I replaced it with. You're trying to activate the sprinkler valve as quickly as possible so the tank dumps all its air near immediately. That little bit of extra air flow allows the sprinkler valve to activate faster, and you get more power for your launches.
Hey MomO here. I am a first time builder of a potato gun. What did I do wrong? The air is going straight through the in line value. Any suggestions?
Hey there. Congratulations on your first build. Issues are normal, I had them too when making the video. They're a good learning opportunity.
So to confirm, when you begin airing up the tank, it immediately goes through the valve? It will do so for a short time before building up the minimum pressure needed to seal the valve. It will stop shortly after, then begin building further pressure which you can track on the gauge.
If it endlessly let's air through, where specifically? You can use sound, or if you can't discern where from sound alone, use a spray bottle of water with a bit of soap in it to check. Lightly spray the potential problem areas and look for bubbles. If air is coming out of the main exit, you may have seated the diaphgram upside down or slightly misaligned and need to open up the valve haves, adjust the diaphragm, and re-close the halves. If air is coming out of the areas where epoxy was added, there may not be enough epoxy to fully seal them.
That's a place to start. Let me know if either of those solutions help or not.
@@HardwareUnknown Thanks for your help. That was the problem. Once I filled with air compressor instead of bike pump it worked great. With 95 psi a potato flew 150 ft. Sons are laughing but I did it. Thanks again.
That's great to hear! Enjoy it with your sons. So great that they're having fun seeing your build.
What size was your taper
I used a 1/4" NPT tap for the fittings. Here's the one I bought: amzn.to/2U3NyoO
All parts/tools are listed in the description in case you need any others as well.
What do you mean by tap the hole, sorry I just don't know what that is/means
No problem at all. Tap (the verb) means to add screw threads to a hole. You do so using a tap (the noun) which is a metal rod-like tool you see me use that has threads along the bottom of the shaft and a square shank on top for holding it. When you twist this into the plastic, it cuts threads into it for mounting the fittings. For reference, the same term is used when cutting threads into metal. You'll see me use vice grips to hold the tap, but typically you'd have a tap handle with square jaws specifically for holding taps to do so.
@@HardwareUnknown thank you
Find makes a really loud horn noise but still very fun
I haven't heard of that brand.. Mine is like a car horn. Any horn is great when cars don't pay attention. I'm sure that one would be a great alternative.
The links says access denied, why
The product links? I'll have to look into that, I'm not sure why they would stop working.
when are you going to upload
Hi, I apologize about all the questions, but is there anyway I can replace the spring?
No apology needed. Always ask questions on my channel. Interacting with viewers is one of my favorite aspects of RUclips.
To confirm, you're talking about the spring within the sprinkler valve, correct? Was it damaged in some way or lost? Either way, if you can find one similar to the original you should be able to. I haven't tried doing so but it should be fine. It should be similar to what was there before as if it's much too hard it could hold the valve closed, and too loose it won't close properly. The nice thing is I assume as long as you match the general size, it's likely close. You can only get so strong a spring in such a small place.
Mcmaster.com is a great resource for finding individual parts of particular sizes. You end up with extra parts, and you won't see the shipping price during ordering despite it being billed to you (they typically sell businesses that send invoices rather than simple online individual purchases) but it's always been pretty average for small packages. I've ordered from them a lot.
i agree with choccymilk ur channel will blow up like jlasers love ur vids i can tell ur vids r inspired by mark
I appreciate that. I've been folloeing his videos since he got started and he's been a huge inspiration. Glad it shows through. Thank you for watching and sharing your thoughts!
Sent here by Backyard Scientist and subscribed (:
Thanks for the support! Let me know if you have any questions while building one of these yourself.
That looks like a reproduction or re-release of the patti platypus beanie baby. I sincerely hope I'm right, i had to open the video and get a closer look. An original series patti is one of the very few that ever actually held value. Worth thousands. Makes me wonder if it was an intentional or coincidental choice for the thumbnail. Cool video!
Perhaps it is, I'm not sure. I've never collected anything for the purpose of selling it later. I wouldn't know how to have identify if so. It didn't have tags and was just one I found in the attic. One that was certainly in good but not mint condition before. Regardless, it was played with before, and I had fun with it here, so it's served it's purpose one way or another. If it was an original, it's certainly not selling for much now! XD Glad you enjoyed.
@@HardwareUnknown Without the tags in the first place it was worthless. Crazy to think it might be an original, it's hard to tell over a video which color it is exactly since the colors are so similar and video color isn't always the same as reality. It'd have to be 30 years old if it were an original though.
Yeah, with the tags off I knew it wouldn't be worth anything. I remember looking it up on eBay back then just to check, but the ones like mine without tags were listed for $20 or less. At that point, knowing nothing else about beanie baby collecting, I was confident enough to send it airborne. 😆
@@HardwareUnknown oh yeah I wasn't trying to give you any shit for it, just found it interesting. Thanks for the replies, have a good one man.
Of course, I took it as curiosity and conversation, nothing negative. Always looking to learn things I don't know, and thanks for taking the time to reply and check out the video!
Very cool, but you should not use schedule 40 pvc. I can and will explode. Air pressure and water pressure is not the same for pipe, especially pvc. This should be done with at least schedule 80 cpvc or threaded iron pipe.
I cannot test PVC pipe with air according to the Universal Plumbing Code because it can be extremely dangerous.
That's good to know. Everywhere I read mentioned be sure to use Schedule 40 over Class 200, but if 80 is the way to go I'll have to try a build with that. I had looked up pressure ratings for Schedule 40 PVC pipe which made me think (knowing the risks of course) that it would be reasonably reliable. If that's not the case, I'll need to change that.
Are you saying that Schedule 80 is specifically rated for air? Or is it just an additional margin of safety? Great to hear the facts from an actual plumber.
Would a metal alternative work? It'd be a hell of harder to build but could withstand MUCH higher pressure?
Yes, and while the weight would increase, it would be safer than PVC due to its strength. I've seen some makers create theirs out of metal pipe for this reason. A great option, for sure.
Isn’t it like really bad to mess around with air in pvc
PVC is not designed for holding air, so there are inherent risks that you cannot ever fully eliminate when using it with air. A metal cannon would be stronger and thus safer if built right (although all cannons can cause injury or damage in some form). It's a risk I knew going in though, and I keep the pressure relatively low as a precaution. Still, PVC can fail during use with air, and anyone making a cannon like this needs to know that, hence the in-video warnings.
Great info. Very well done. Not dragged out. &. To the point thx
Thank you, I've been working on making things more succinct. Enjoy your build!
Excellent video tks
Glad you enjoyed! Good luck if you go about making your own.
Still a great video with the parts list, like Chris fix it
Guys is does not work. My sprinkler valve just leaks out air into the barrel every time I pump
Did you properly seat the diaphragm when reassembling the valve?
Tap wrench gore LOL .. good video buddy!
It so is... I regret nothing.
Thanks bud! Simple build in preparation for another (several TikTok requests for it too) and I wanted to try my hand at improving my editing/step-by-step tutorial skills. As always, I appreciate the support.
U should shoot some stuff with it
I made one from a bottle a Bicycle tire a valve and a pvc pipe it work on 60psi and u kan reload it with a bike pump
Bikes pumps are so great for these since they can be used from anywhere. Really happy I made this launcher with one in mind.
I have a idea for upgrade
Let's hear it. I'm always curious about improvements.
@@HardwareUnknownmake it into all metal and make it hold up to 4500 psi that can shoot a projectile to super sonic speed
how much did this project cost in total?
Not counting tools, I was able to get all the items mentioned for about $75 from Home Depot and Harbor Freight. If you order online it could be slightly more, but I believe you should be able to get it all for under $100.
@@HardwareUnknown My Home Depot charged a little more than that. Everything came in around 100 bucks.
Also, regarding safety, I read on this spudfiles website that anything marked NSF-PW is safe to use. The PW stands for potable water, which is under 70psi. Everything I bought was marked as such. And on top of that, I've heard the fiber tape can protect against the chamber shattering as it allegedly holds everything in.
Ah yeah, I forget I don't have sales tax here so that explains the price jump at HD.
A word of warning, and you probably already got this from the video but just to reiterate: no matter the markings, no matter the schedule #, all PVC won't be fully "safe" when used this way. The reason is because of that shattering you mention. Metal, on the other hand, yields and cracks to release pressure. Plus, since air is compressible, the physics are different than water. Granted, schedule 40 PVC or even 80 is thicker than others making it stronger, but it bears remembering to always be careful as this isn't the intended purpose for PVC. My recommendation is to know your limits and wear safety gear like eye protection just in case. Again, maybe you know this, but when I hear someone say their PVC is "safe", I always want them to prepare. Make the cannon, for sure, just know the risks.
Enjoy, and let me know how your build turns out!
@@HardwareUnknown Yeah, you know, looking into it, I think I'm going to return everything and build it using a different material. We're building this cannon for a school project meaning we'll be in around testing this thing for months. So the event of an explosion seems a lot more like an inevitability rather than just a possibility.
It seems like a really cool project for just messing around a couple times, but considering my use case, I really don't want anyone getting hurt.
That's a smart move. Keeping the pressure low with PVC makes it less likely, and I leave a good margin. It can happen though, so if you're doing it for a school project it'd be smart to make it out of metal. Plus you have lots of test time. Before settling on PVC since it's just for my use, I went to a fire extinguisher repair facility and they gave me empty vessels. Those could work as they're already pressure tested. You'd just need the threaded adapters which admittedly I could not find. However, I didn't spend too long on looking for what threading it was.
OMG...that's awesome...you have to grow this channel bigger and bigger...
You deserve more than 100K subscribers...and of course I have to subscribe this great channel...great
Thanks so much for the compliment and the sub! Makes all the work worthwhile when I hear my viewers enjoying my videos. Looking forward to future growth of the channel. Speaking of which, if you enjoyed this project... you'll definitely enjoy the next one. 😉
Literally a P.I.A.T
great job!!!
Thank you! Hope you enjoy the build if you make one. Feel free to ask any questions, always happy to answer.
Fantastic
Thank you! Enjoy the build if you end up making one.
Nice!
Thank you! It was really fun to make and a... *ahem*... blast... to use.
Snowball rocketlanucher
Any alternate ammunition that can be shot at humans?
I cannot advise on this as each cannon will be different. Anything shot at a human has the potential for serious injury and should have regulators in place to prevent "hot" shooting (ie. Too much power, with more potential for iniury). A stuffed animal may seem soft, but it can still hit someone in the eye, possibly with a piece of unseen plastic. Depending on numerous factors including pressure, volume, and more, a particular projectile will have a different impact (literally). As my design does not have a regulator and has not undergone professional testing, I do not recommend it be shot at humans. Personally, I leave that to my paintball markers while wearing proper safety gear.
This was entirely too sane and rational for my purposes.
Thank you lol 😊
You're welcome. It's a... *ahem*... blast to build. Enjoy!
Please can you put european measures
Oh man, so sorry I missed this comment. I try to reply to every one and this one slipped past.
I don't know what size PVC pipe/fittings are used in the european market, so it's hard to comment on those exactly, however I'll tell you that the sizing isn't too critical. The more important thing would be the pipe thickness for safety.
For a baseline though, the main pipe is about 5cm in diameter, the barrel is about 51cm long and the tank is about 76cm long. The pipe I used is about 4mm thick. The fittings are just over 6mm.
Hopefully that helps you out, let me know if there is anything more you'd like to know and I can find them out.
Gonna load a grenade
I’m gonna turn this into a honey bun launcher
Can I have one?
Cool
make a gun that builds up pressure and releases it into a shot but instead of launching stuff it just shoots high speed air particles
When I was a kid there was this toy called an Airzooka. It was basically that. You would pull back on an elastic strap tied to a flexible plastic cover over the end of a plastic tube with a handle. When you released the handle the plastic cover would snap forward from the elastic and it would launch a sort of ball of air wherever you aimed at. It was fun to play tag with them.
I always just made these with hairspray and a cigarette lighter.
An option, for sure. I like compressed air as it can be fine tuned, but you can certainly get some distance with other versions as well.
using loads of confetti
I want one
Instruction unclear made an cannon
This is a simple cannon?
I'd say so. The PVC connections all involve the same procedure to glue them, and the valve needs a few modifications. Sure there are even simpler designs, but there are also more complex ones. Everyone's comfort will be different so for some this would be trivial and other's it would be an advanced project. It's all relative. If you're building something though and learning along the way, you're doing a good thing no matter your current skill/comfort level.
How to make a rpg:
Don't forget to make the projectile a vial of nitroglycerin kids!
😮😮😮❤❤❤
Glad you enjoyed! Have fun with a build of your own, let me know how it goes.