Thanks! I know some times (at least once every video) I screw up and say a wrong word, etc., and I was running out of things to say, lol! Making these are very repetitive and time consuming, so even with the shortened version, I ran out of words. :)
I tried the "slower speed" setting. It makes you sound like you were spending time with the guys on the Revere Glass videos (if you get the reference)! Great tutorial at any speed.
Amazing... so happy to have found your channel. You are one of the few doing current LAMPWORK videos. Love you work thanks. How about a shipwrek or reef bead..;}
Thank you, Dan! I have several videos slated to be coming out in the following weeks, but I will see about one of those reef beads (I am assuming those are the heavily encased ocean-type beads?)
Hello Jeannie I love your videos. I'm new to lamp working, quick question, can you reheat a Bead and do it again if it doesn't turn out? Also.. what's the best type of glass to use, I bought Devardi glass, it seems harder to melt..Thank you
It depends on what happens with your bead - - if it breaks off of the bead release/mandrel, you don't want to try and heat it up again. If it is still solid and secure, you can put it in a cold kiln and heat it hotter than annealing temperature. I work mostly with soft glass and would heat to about 1050-1080 (when annealing temp is around 950). Devardi glass is one of the more difficult to work with, from what I hear. Most bead makers use 104 COE, but some use 96 or 90 COE also - - most common is 104 in my neck of the woods - - and there are a variety of brands - - Effetre, CiM, Lauscha, Vetrofond, etc. But you cannot mix the COE types, most are incompatible and will cause your beads to shatter. You can get away with a little 96 on top of 104, but the rule is no more than 10% of the bead mass. So don't get your glasses mixed up!! :)
This question is kinda off subject, but here goes. I just got a pair of Peters tweezers and the blades are about 1/8" apart when they are squeezed to where the tips should meet. My husband says he can get them closer, so we need to know should the points meet or should they overlap a bit? Thanks for your help.
Yes, the points should meet in the center - - - I wonder if your were defective or something. I have never had a problem with mine and never had them go off-center either. I hope hubby can get them centered for you.
Sooo? New camera or did you get the old one working? Lovely video, as usual. I really appreciate being able to really see the process. You're shooting at a good angle. Thanks so for your sharing.
Yes, got a new camera, woot! But I still have some videos scheduled to come out that were made with the old camera. Sorry about all my rods and tool mess in the background - - I didn't think that was SO good of an angle, lol!
I am currently using a Bethlehem Bravo (just the center flame for soft glass). No, I never "bathe" my rods - - I have always gone straight into the flame, no matter what torch I use. Sometimes I have flying shards off my rods, haha!, but that's the way I roll!
I work with a Carlisle Mini CC and if I put my rods in that quickly I would have pieces of glass shooting off every time. I'm wondering if I need to upgrade to a larger torch. I primarily make larger focals. What do you think?
I don't think it should be a problem. I also have a mini cc and Nortel Minors, which I worked on for 12 or so years before I got my Bravo - - I've always put my glass directly in the flame. I do sometimes have certain rods (like CiM) want to become frit-on-a-stick, but that's more-so the glass. I guess it's just my old-school ways and because I've been doing it so long that either I don't seem to have a problem. There are some glasses which I will start to warm further out in the flame (like rubino), but mostly, I just charge right in, lol!
I have enjoyed this so much🌸😷😁
Beautiful video - I wish I could tell you how much I admired you 😻xx
I'm just starting with glass blowing and I LOVE your videos. Thank you so much for being so thorough and taking the time to make your audio so clear!
Wow ... So pretty!
I enjoyed this a lot! Good grief - now this one takes a lot of work and balance. Great job. Your narration is perfect.
Thanks! I know some times (at least once every video) I screw up and say a wrong word, etc., and I was running out of things to say, lol! Making these are very repetitive and time consuming, so even with the shortened version, I ran out of words. :)
Wow, what a great video! Immensely helpful- can't wait to make one. Many thanks, Jean!!!
Thank you! So glad I could help! :)
Jeannie, you're a great instructor! Thanks so much such a great video. Many teachable moments!
Thank you! :)
Jeannie Cox Thanks for so freely sharing your information!
I tried the "slower speed" setting. It makes you sound like you were spending time with the guys on the Revere Glass videos (if you get the reference)! Great tutorial at any speed.
Haha!! Yes, know what you mean!!
Amazing... so happy to have found your channel. You are one of the few doing current LAMPWORK videos. Love you work thanks.
How about a shipwrek or reef bead..;}
Thank you, Dan! I have several videos slated to be coming out in the following weeks, but I will see about one of those reef beads (I am assuming those are the heavily encased ocean-type beads?)
Yes, with suggestive sea creature millefiori and maybe a small implosion... do I see a jellyfish? lol
Hello Jeannie I love your videos. I'm new to lamp working, quick question, can you reheat a Bead and do it again if it doesn't turn out? Also.. what's the best type of glass to use, I bought Devardi glass, it seems harder to melt..Thank you
It depends on what happens with your bead - - if it breaks off of the bead release/mandrel, you don't want to try and heat it up again. If it is still solid and secure, you can put it in a cold kiln and heat it hotter than annealing temperature. I work mostly with soft glass and would heat to about 1050-1080 (when annealing temp is around 950).
Devardi glass is one of the more difficult to work with, from what I hear. Most bead makers use 104 COE, but some use 96 or 90 COE also - - most common is 104 in my neck of the woods - - and there are a variety of brands - - Effetre, CiM, Lauscha, Vetrofond, etc.
But you cannot mix the COE types, most are incompatible and will cause your beads to shatter. You can get away with a little 96 on top of 104, but the rule is no more than 10% of the bead mass. So don't get your glasses mixed up!! :)
This question is kinda off subject, but here goes. I just got a pair of Peters tweezers and the blades are about 1/8" apart when they are squeezed to where the tips should meet. My husband says he can get them closer, so we need to know should the points meet or should they overlap a bit? Thanks for your help.
Yes, the points should meet in the center - - - I wonder if your were defective or something. I have never had a problem with mine and never had them go off-center either. I hope hubby can get them centered for you.
Thanks. He's a real handyman, so am sure he will get them working right.
Sooo? New camera or did you get the old one working? Lovely video, as usual. I really appreciate being able to really see the process. You're shooting at a good angle. Thanks so for your sharing.
Yes, got a new camera, woot! But I still have some videos scheduled to come out that were made with the old camera. Sorry about all my rods and tool mess in the background - - I didn't think that was SO good of an angle, lol!
lol my station looks like that while I am working too lol
What is your torch? You are not bathing the rods at all but going straight into the flame. Is that because of the torch flame?
I am currently using a Bethlehem Bravo (just the center flame for soft glass). No, I never "bathe" my rods - - I have always gone straight into the flame, no matter what torch I use. Sometimes I have flying shards off my rods, haha!, but that's the way I roll!
I work with a Carlisle Mini CC and if I put my rods in that quickly I would have pieces of glass shooting off every time. I'm wondering if I need to upgrade to a larger torch. I primarily make larger focals. What do you think?
I don't think it should be a problem. I also have a mini cc and Nortel Minors, which I worked on for 12 or so years before I got my Bravo - - I've always put my glass directly in the flame. I do sometimes have certain rods (like CiM) want to become frit-on-a-stick, but that's more-so the glass. I guess it's just my old-school ways and because I've been doing it so long that either I don't seem to have a problem. There are some glasses which I will start to warm further out in the flame (like rubino), but mostly, I just charge right in, lol!
Well, I'll try to charge right in as well, but I think I'll put on some armor first. lol! Thanks for another great video! :)
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