Thanks as always for this resource! Camera Settings: Shutter speed: One second Aperture: f/11 ISO: 200 White balance: Sunny Shooting mode: Manual Focus: Manual (acquired by focusing on the fireworks before switching to manual focus) Image format: RAW plus JPEG (large, super fine) Menu Settings: Color, white balance, and grading: Set to super fine/large super fine for maximum quality Intervalometer: Set to a maximum of 999 frames, with a two-second start delay and one second between shots Rec view: Turned off Noise reduction: Turned off in the exposure menu
Such a great technique, Rob. And you are such a great teacher. Thx When I was growing up, my father would take fireworks pictures (film camera of course) on Bulb, and he would open the shutter, use a coffee can in front of the lens (remove it for the fireworks display and then cover the lens again). I've got to check to see if I have any of his fireworks slides.
I like wire shutter release, Bulb, aperture matching the lens and amount of light which depends also on distance (usually around F6.3). ISO at base ISO level. When I see rocket going up, I press the shutter and leave it pressed during exposion. Sometimes 2s sometimes 4-5s sometimes even 10s depending on type and amount and cadence of effects on the sky.
That's the best way to do it. My buddy does it like that. I like using the custom shutter so I don't have to stay on the shutter the whole time. I miss a few good ones and get a few bad ones.
Rob, Thanks so much! Took photos tonight of a local university firework display. Photos came out great using this technique. 80% hit rate. You're the best!
LOL. Rob said, "blue balls!" Which is the feeling many of us have experienced when attempting to capture good images of fireworks. But, in this one concise, clearly elucidated tutorial, you've taken away much of the, uhh, frustration! Thank you.
Your logical collection of data and application to a a solution is noteworthy. Your in-depth knowledge of Olympus gear makes video this extremely helpful to anyone wanting to shoot a fireworks show. I'm confident I could go out and get great shots after watching this video.
Thanks for the great video. Don't know why you are not an Olympus Educator yet. No one else provides the same in depth information that I can understand in such an easy way.
Thanks Rob, this is an excellent video for photographers who want to use interval time-lapse for taking photos of fireworks. Some settings I've never use it before. Most of photographers don't use time-lapse, they use continuous shooting and press/release the shutter manually when they see the fireworks start. What is the percent of hit and miss when you do this way?. In this case I would use 2 cameras, the other one for traditional way. Thanks a lot for this sharing. What monitor do you have to attach to the camera? I am looking for the one that have SD card slot that I can recording from camera screen. When you turned off Rec View, will the monitor still work?
Thanks. When I tested using the intervalometer, I think the hit rate was about the same or better than doing it manually, but 10 times easier. I don't have a monitor attached to the camera, rather I have the camera plugged into and hdmi capture device to record using obs software, similar to live streaming. I have used a black magic monitor with the sdcard before and it works great. A bit bulky but reliable.
Really good video Rob. Sounds so straightforward when you explain and demonstrate it. Never used the intervalometer before but now can’t wait . And will try like you suggest using an existing RUclips video for practice. Cheers.
Awesome vid Robone question though, is there any advantage to using the live composite? Your last video used live composite and I'm guessing you preferred just using long exposure since its easier and gets better results?
Thanks! The problem with live comp is the workflow. You have to push the shutter once to get a base exposure, then press again to start. If you only have 1 or 2 seconds to capture the fireworks, you will have missed the shots. Try practicing on a fireworks video using live comp and you'll see what I mean.
I think those settings will work at a good distance. The closer you are to the fireworks, the more you have to compensate for the increase in brightness.
Thanks as always for this resource!
Camera Settings:
Shutter speed: One second
Aperture: f/11
ISO: 200
White balance: Sunny
Shooting mode: Manual
Focus: Manual (acquired by focusing on the fireworks before switching to manual focus)
Image format: RAW plus JPEG (large, super fine)
Menu Settings:
Color, white balance, and grading: Set to super fine/large super fine for maximum quality
Intervalometer: Set to a maximum of 999 frames, with a two-second start delay and one second between shots
Rec view: Turned off
Noise reduction: Turned off in the exposure menu
Happy 2024!
Happy new year!
Such a great technique, Rob. And you are such a great teacher. Thx
When I was growing up, my father would take fireworks pictures (film camera of course) on Bulb, and he would open the shutter, use a coffee can in front of the lens (remove it for the fireworks display and then cover the lens again). I've got to check to see if I have any of his fireworks slides.
Thanks, Arthur. That would be cool to find those slides. If you can, scan them and share them in my Flickr group.
Sorry, Rob, I wrote the previous question before I saw the remainder of your video. Thanks, Rob. Great suggestions.
No worries.
I like wire shutter release, Bulb, aperture matching the lens and amount of light which depends also on distance (usually around F6.3). ISO at base ISO level. When I see rocket going up, I press the shutter and leave it pressed during exposion. Sometimes 2s sometimes 4-5s sometimes even 10s depending on type and amount and cadence of effects on the sky.
That's the best way to do it. My buddy does it like that. I like using the custom shutter so I don't have to stay on the shutter the whole time. I miss a few good ones and get a few bad ones.
Rob, Thanks so much! Took photos tonight of a local university firework display. Photos came out great using this technique. 80% hit rate. You're the best!
Glad to help! Thanks.
LOL. Rob said, "blue balls!" Which is the feeling many of us have experienced when attempting to capture good images of fireworks. But, in this one concise, clearly elucidated tutorial, you've taken away much of the, uhh, frustration! Thank you.
Haha! Yes, frustrating. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands. I mean bulb mode of course!
Your logical collection of data and application to a a solution is noteworthy. Your in-depth knowledge of Olympus gear makes video this extremely helpful to anyone wanting to shoot a fireworks show. I'm confident I could go out and get great shots after watching this video.
Thanks!
Thanks for the great video.
Don't know why you are not an Olympus Educator yet. No one else provides the same in depth information that I can understand in such an easy way.
Wow, thanks!
Thanks Rob great tips used my new OM1 to shot fireworks at our show turned out great so many really good shoots. awesome video
Glad to help!
Excellent Tutorial Video On Camera Settings For Fireworks. Thank You Rob.
Thank you!
Thanks Rob, this is an excellent video for photographers who want to use interval time-lapse for taking photos of fireworks. Some settings I've never use it before. Most of photographers don't use time-lapse, they use continuous shooting and press/release the shutter manually when they see the fireworks start. What is the percent of hit and miss when you do this way?. In this case I would use 2 cameras, the other one for traditional way. Thanks a lot for this sharing. What monitor do you have to attach to the camera? I am looking for the one that have SD card slot that I can recording from camera screen. When you turned off Rec View, will the monitor still work?
Thanks. When I tested using the intervalometer, I think the hit rate was about the same or better than doing it manually, but 10 times easier. I don't have a monitor attached to the camera, rather I have the camera plugged into and hdmi capture device to record using obs software, similar to live streaming. I have used a black magic monitor with the sdcard before and it works great. A bit bulky but reliable.
Really good video Rob. Sounds so straightforward when you explain and demonstrate it. Never used the intervalometer before but now can’t wait . And will try like you suggest using an existing RUclips video for practice. Cheers.
Thanks, Terry. I went out last night with these settings. I did several at 1 second and several at 2 seconds. Worked great.
Great video, Rob. The only time I used live comp was for lightning. I’ll put the photo on the Flickr community.
I'll look for them! Thanks.
Awesome vid Robone question though, is there any advantage to using the live composite? Your last video used live composite and I'm guessing you preferred just using long exposure since its easier and gets better results?
Thanks! The problem with live comp is the workflow. You have to push the shutter once to get a base exposure, then press again to start. If you only have 1 or 2 seconds to capture the fireworks, you will have missed the shots. Try practicing on a fireworks video using live comp and you'll see what I mean.
Hi Rob,
Thanks for this video. Here, in France, the National Day is only ten days after your Independence Day. I'll test this with your settings ....
That's great to know this video is still timely for some others around the world. Thanks!
Rob, if you use an intervalometer, you don't need to continually press the shutter, right?
Nope. You got this!
Hey Rob! I was wondering what method or software you are using to view the video frames in your presentation...
I was using a free video player from GOM. Many like VLC player better. I added the timer in Davinci Resolve and it was embedded into the video.
I think the sweet spot is 4 sec at f8 iso 160
I think those settings will work at a good distance. The closer you are to the fireworks, the more you have to compensate for the increase in brightness.
So basically 1 to 1.5 seconds or maybe 2 seconds
3-4 seconds works well too.