Your channel is by far my favorite when it comes to restorations on RUclips because you get the closest to your projects being actual restorations as opposed to refurbishments or something similar. You don’t destroy the history by obliterating casting marks, mirror polishing everything, and powder coating things that weren’t powder coated or even painted. You keep your restorations true to the history of the item and I respect that
Yeah I hate when they put putty on the metal castings to make them perfectly smooth.... they don't do that now for tools and they didn't do it back then either.
God, every time I watch these it makes me want to buy a lathe. It just seems...so handy. No more cutting shitty gears by hand. No more trying to just get things "round enough". Being able to actually resize pins and shafts. The dream.
A craftsman who takes pride in his work. No half-axxing or corners cut here. I enjoy watching your videos. It began when I watched a video of an antique Ball Motor restoration you did. Thank you, Hand Tool Rescue.
I may be one of the few, but I find the captions to be detracting from the video. I'm looking at the caption to see what's going on, or I look at the image on the screen and the captions go by. There is no "win"...whichever you choose, caption or just the video, you can't do them both at the same time. It's distracting. The reason I subscribed and have been with the channel is that HTR is able to clearly show what's going on without a word...I love that. It's more interesting to see how you do things and describe them simply through the images you share. IMHO.
As much as I want to judge my plastic brushless makita drill in the presence of beautiful old user-serviceable tanks, this one is a bit much. This is the first time I have felt I had a better chance of understanding a brushless ESC than the switching mechanism of an old brushed drill.
These vids are simply perfect. You do it all right. Rarely seen on camera, excellent close in photography, great workmanship on interesting items and really funny at times. This is very rare. Some hosts want to invite you in as their beer buddy & some lecture before doing anything with the camera 6 inches away from their gobs. There's gotta be some award somewhere that we can nominate you. The golden screwdriver award !!
I bet this was insanely expensive when it came out new. I remember when my dad got a second hand AEG drill in the 60s, that was still expensive then. And it was still completely made of cast aluminum. If it had a electrical fault, you would notice it at once... :)
@@HandToolRescue Certainly not in reach of a hobby DIYer. Peculiar somehow... today you can still buy a electric drill for $58. But a coffee costs $3 instead of 5 cent back then.
850 is still kinda what you would pay for something really heavy duty today. I cant imagine this was bought to drill just a couple of small holes. Closest thing I would compare it to would be a mag drill.
The first electric hand drill was build in 1895 and patened in 1900 by Fein in Germany. There is no asbestos in the wiering, they are isolated most likely with Guttapercha (a natural rubber) and cotton strings with tar or wax. I love these old machines and love to restore them. My oldest one so far was a priting press, from the late 1800 converted after WW1 to an electric motor.
@@JamesThomas-gg6il, it is an Eyring from Germany, the company is called Wilke since 1911, if I am informed right. It hat a big hand cradle on the side. The " motor conversion" was a similar mechanic they used in the 1950s to power Church bells but much smaller. A friend of mine found it in a barn, he wanted to buy an old Lanz Buldog and ended up with alot of other stuff, the Buldog was sold only minutes before he arrived.
@@Pimentel-Kreations you are right, Schellack was used verry often too. I can only laugh at these people, who think : Oh it is old, there must be asbestos in and it is radioaktive too. In an old Telephone Forum we have these questions weekly in summer when the yardsales and fleamarkets are every single day. In my freetime I do nothing else than restoring such old devices. If that really is the case, I must be found dead like a mouse and glowing in the dark many years ago.
He is not concerned about the wiring but about the mountingplate, wich looks to be made out some sort of a fibre-resin based material. I understand his concern.
45:30 You might want to consider a step drill for thin material. They outperform twist drills in regard to distortion, warping and "biting" into the material.
I'm happy that someone else had this suggestion also. Step bits for thin sheet metal will change your life! Plus the next step in the bit acts as a deburing tool.
A very fine job of restoration! 💯 As a veteran of the British '3-pin plug' fitting era I can attest to the frustration (and safety hazard) of trying to get multi-strand electrical wire caught underneath the head of a round-headed screw (bolt), particularly as time went on and manufacturers liked to cut costs by making the screw-head progressively smaller. The answer was those formed brass (?) ring washers with the multiple flanges including a tail with strain relief for the wire - strip and twist the wire, bend it around an electricians screwdriver and lay it on the washer. Then crimp up all the flanges with fine-nose pliers - almost as good as soldering and practically zero chance of a strand escaping to cause shorts. If I recall correctly they were ludicrously cheap (by today's standards) and should be used everywhere in a piece of equipment like the one shown.
The red insulating material is likely to be vulcanised fibre. It was formed as a sheet and then cut or pressed to shape. It is an excellent insulator with very good arc and creep properties. It was "superseded" by industrial plastics for most uses for many years but there is a now a resurgence in interest as the material is made of cellulose fibre and zinc chloride and is thus entirely renewable, unlike most plastics.
Ah, yes. Thank Heaven for those cellulose fibre mines and those fabulous zinc chloride wells! And the laughing besmocked peasant girls who collect these ingredients which virtually throw themselves out of the ground into their baskets! And the cheery sounds of their gay traditional songs ringing through the woods as they help to keep making the motors that blow cold air up the arse of yet more entitled Chelsea Tractor drivers.
@@garyjonah22 The cellulose fibre mine would normally be called a tree. Although the world is actually running out of zinc, the world production of vulcanised fibre represents less than 10,000 t of zinc from a global production of more than 12 million t. The vulcanised fibre zinc requirement could be produced from seawater so in a way you are right, in that the ocean could be considered a well of sorts.
@@lyrebirdcyclesmarkkelly9874 Oh, how silly of me. I'd forgotten about those Cellulose Fibre Tree plantations where each tree produces thousands of bales of pure, consistent, dry fibres ready for immediate use . Not so sure about the sea washing up sacks of purified zinc chloride conveniently close to the Vulcanized Rubber factory though. But you never know. I mean, anything's possible these days, what with the electricity wells and hydrogen mines that are being planned as we speak. By the way, do you ever hear unexplained loud whooshing noises?
@@garyjonah22 you sound entirely unhinged and like you've never actually researched how these things are made. would you care to cut the sarcasm and say what you really mean
As someone that has had to overhaul old tools because of personal poverty and need, the fact that you elevate necessity to art is a very beautiful thing to me. Thank you.
And now, with its 60th consecutive week at #1 on the Top 40 charts (a record that is sure to never be beaten ladies and gents) here's HTR with "I'm Gon' Laser You".
I’m always amazed at the prowess with which you put these things back together. I mean breaking them down is one thing, but putting them back together is a whole other ball of wax.
@@timesthree5757 So was much of the old stuff. Its just that the old stuff is more repairable, so we tend to see it through that lens. Honestly, a cheap 18v Ryobi drill from Home Depot probably has similar power to this all metal machine, especially if it's the brushless version. As far as coating a metal drill in rubber goes, that would be dangerous since the coating would degrade and peel off over time, exposing a metal housing that could be live. I fix medical equipment for a living (I'm a Biomed) and my job literally came into being because of how unsafe electrical medical devices were designed back in the day. Plastics are inherently safer than metal when it comes to housings. They may not last 100 years, but then nothing has to. It is obsolete long before that is a real issue.
@@3rdworldgarage450 I own an 89f250 7.3L IDI Diesel. Live in a house built in 1898. Own a 79 bass boat with a 76 115hp Johnson. I never own anything new cause as a Mechanic I know that new stuff is junk. Yer paying 40,000$ for a throw away vehicle. Don't give me this, "modern cars are safer crap. Above 45mph yer dying". I've had to wrecker many new cars to know the safety argument is bull.
@@timesthree5757 Where did I say anything about cars? I was referring to electrical devices. I myself prefer to work on older vehicles and count among my fleet a 425,000 mile 1998 Nissan Frontier that I do all the work on myself. I dont daily it anymore as the nature of where I live and what I do demands a newer vehicle, but I definitely prefer old to new when it comes to cars. Power drills? Ill take my 18v Makita over anything from 50 years ago.
2 года назад
People don't appreciate how far we've come regarding power tools. That thing you're using is heavy, loud and unstable, but be that as it may, it's still way better than a manual drill. And even now so much improvement is made daily. A couple of months back, my company replaced Wurth cordless hand drills with Makitas. The difference was obvious when the first shift using them was over. Lighter, more powerful, better battery mileage
7:14 Probably not asbestos. The standard wire construction back then was copper strands covered with natural rubber, then that was covered with a woven cloth jacket, then that usually had some sort of asphaltum type tar rubbed over it. So nothing really dangerous like asbestos. Asbestos was primarily used where you had super hot things like steam pipes you needed to insulate. Although wires in electrical appliances like drills get hot, if their fan is working, then the motor isn't getting so insanely hot that you'd need asbestos.
They did those things out of asbestos for defense against high heat.... building fires. All three things were historically not fire resistant and led to many tragedies so they used the "miracle" fiber to slow the spread of fire.
@@mayshack Asbestos in it's original form looks like this: www.h2odistributors.com/global/productpics/misc/asbestos-photo-1_l.jpg It's like a rock composed of a million parallel rock threads So it crumbles easily and is not strong at all. No way you could make a terminal block out of it. That terminal block was probably bakelite or some sort of resin impregnated stuff like circuit board are made of, just much thicker.
Asbestos was used for just about everything in the early 20th Century home - hairdryers, floor tiles, toys, oven gloves, gutters, insulation, even clothing... Cheers! S
Asbestos jacketed wires are super common in old stuff. Practically every single All American 5 radio i repair is loaded with it, and those don't REALLY get hot enough to need them, as long as you don't wrap the wires around the tubes. That IS asbstos (the terminal block, phenolics didn't exist yet, and bakelite was too brittle for a high vibration application), and it's primary purpose is to be a heat shield that may encounter sparks.
Awesome job on this unique drill. Oh by the way keep up with that humour in your blogs it’s what sets you apart from the rest once again great Blog keep it up the great work until next time.
This tool is an example of why I am a Patron. Another interesting and unusual tool. As well as the fact you're a fellow Canuck. You're awesome. Thanks.
I was thinking you’d test the shell again with a VOM. The electrics in that thing looked terrifying, even new it must have zapped users once in a while.
„ Hi, this is *generic restauration channel 69* and today we are restoring a spoon - with pink glitter epoxy!“ Thank god for the few people like Eric that do proper restaurations of old tools that don‘t take 30+ videos to complete.
Imagine...if...we could go back in time and show the guys who used these tools, a Makita, or Milwaukee or even a Ryobi cordless driver of today.....RIP our Fellow tradesmen. Without you guys we wouldn't be where we are today.
Magnifique travail de restauration ! On apprend beaucoup sur la façon de concevoir des mécanismes de la part de nos anciens ! Très belle vidéo , très bonnes images et explications !!!!!
Something that was common until the 1950s with electrics was the chassis would be grounded, which meant that you had a 50/50 chance with the plug in placing it wrong way in electrifying the chassis, like in this case. The older plug types could be placed either way, unlike modern plugs.
No. People weren't that stupid in those days. Hot chassis electronics always had proper isolation so even if the chassis is live, you can not touch anything. Hot chassis devices are still plentiful. Most LED lighting drivers and solar inverters are of that type. The chassis (meaning the electronics) cannot be grounded ever, because that would cause a short circuit between phase and neutral (which is connected to ground somewhere). It's important to know the distinction between phase, neutral and ground. Any ground connections to such hot chassis devices, is purely a signal ground (such as for the radio reception ground). The case could be grounded if it's metal, of course. All antique devices i've had in my hands were designed to be safe to touch regardless of plug orientation. It was however a problem that occasionally due to vibration, isolation would wear through and electrify the metal parts. Working with that kind of power tool in the rain also caused many shocks. Van Der Heem (a dutch brand of power tools) knew this, and commercialized on making safer power tools in 2 different ways: double isolated tools that featured 2 layers of isolation (the conventional winding isolation, as well as a barrier of plastic or bakelite between any metal part you can touch, and anything carrying mains. This was common for the smaller tools. The 2nd one was to supply the tools with a 3 wire power cord, so it could be safely grounded. This was common for the super heavy tools. Because the metal case would be grounded, any leakage or short from the phase to the case, would be short circuited, which blows the fuse in case of a 'hard' leakage, or just keeps the case at ground potential when it's only a small leakage.
Since the drill was originally designed to be plugged into a light socket, it may have been grounded at that time, but someone made a mistake later, when modifying it to use a modern plug. As a random RUclips commenter, I should say that I have no particular expertise here, but it seems like an obvious explanation to me.
No matter how many times I watch this channel, the beginning intro with the glasses off smile gets me everytime. What a great way to start a show. You're a damn trip buddy. Great work too.
How many OCD people had a fit with the name plate screws. I laughed so hard. My ex wife would hunt you down if she saw that. Lol. Awesome drill and awesome video. Thanks.
i was wincing when you were forcing the new bushings in to the cases with the vice cause they looked a little tight. i was waiting for them to crack cause they look like old pot metal but you pulled it off! great job!
Once again. Amazing work. When you use the braided wire, you can tin them before you wrap around the screw head. It keeps those strays from causing issues.
My strategy with stranded wires on terminals is to twist them counterclockwise before making the hook. Keeps the strays under the terminal and makes the whole thing less likely to fray out as you tighten the terminal
Interesting restoration,surprised how intricate the drill is for its age.great video always enjoy with your antics.keep on doing what your thinking and doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Keep in mind what the world, and electricity, were actually like when this was made. You got power from a LOCAL power-plant. Like, in your county, because there were no power "grids" for another 5-10 years. It was less than 10 years after the first vacuum cleaner and washing machine. About 5 years after the first Air conditioner and Refrigerators. Electrical wiring were exposed bare wires run along the walls, wrapped around glass knobs (knob-and-tube). And these ran only to light sockets. You would either screw this into a bulb socket, or more terrifyingly, clamp the wires straight onto the two exposed wires on the wall.
I'm loving your vernacular as well as the minor changes the captioning does to it, I also truly enjoyed the quarter turn you gave to the screw on the label to attempt to set off my OCD, at least it was perpendicular to the other and not 30º… whew, crisis averted.
I noted that your hair wasn't standing straight out when you tested it at the end. Was the case still live? Just curious. Also curious what vintage that evap-o-rust liqueur is, lol.
A beautiful restoration as usual, sir! I only have one observation that I would change about what you did. I would install the ring eyes on both ends of the wires, not just one end. It looked kinda sketchy on the bare wire under those screws. It looks like that end could easily come out from under the screws causing a safety issue. Would it be a sin to add a ground to the motor and plug?
I think a ground will protect you from a short, but I think that the case is "hot". The old plugs had equal sized plug ends.If you got a tingle, you flipped the cord.
I've got one of the early black and decker trigger drills and the switch mechanism is extremely cool. Basically a square block with a ratchet mechanism so it spins every time the trigger is pulled to make or break connection.
Not really a complicated switch, it's basically a 2 pole 2 way switch that reverses the brush connections with respect to the field winding I'm not keen on that wrapped around wire without a cup washer, i would have hoped you put a ring on it, and hope that you connected a ground wire
when drilling into thin metal like at the end of the video, back up the piece with wood so you drill right into wood. this advice comes directly from my 1967 2hp drill press mannual.
When drilling the thin steel can on the drill press, you can use some cloth scrap on the drill bit to knock down the burrs as it cuts through and prevent the metal walking up the bit. It will make a clean hole without deforming the thin sheet metal.
No tenía idea de la existencia de taladros de mano para 1910!!. Una herramienta digna de SUMA COLECCIÓN para el entusiasta (como yo) a los equipos antiguos!!!. Una soberana BELLEZA de pieza, sin duda.
Eric - Take apart a Dewalt Flexvolt battery sometime, to see an even more complicated mechanical switch. IIRC it's 6 bars and sliders, 12 posts, that shift from one position to the other every time the 60v plunger is depressed as you connect it to a 60v tool. It flips the 3x 5cells in series, from 3 parallel sets of 5 in series (20v, in triple), to 3 series sets of 5 in series (60v, in a long chain of 15 in series). And it's the size of a child's palm, on every battery.
Fantastic restoration, as always. The gear appeared to be previously repaired by brazing; was that truly the case? If so, why does it always get damaged at that particular location on the gear? Is it out of round or warped or something? Did you use Alumiweld to fix the cracked aluminum housing? I know, I know, it's on the inside, but did you consider using braided insulation wires to replace the older wiring you replaced? I sometimes do luthier repairs and modifications on electric guitars and everybody expects me to use braided insulation wires on their electronicals. You know, for that vintage feel.
Did anyone else notice that the black wire in the switch was not very well tightened around the screw. I think he did not notice this. At 32.00 Looks like it could come loose real easy. I love this channel. Smart man.
Step drills work great. You can also put a block of wood on the back side to support the thin steel and let the drill bit go through both the sheet steel and the wood, this will also prevent it from bending.
Baiting the OCD viewers by not soldering a ring terminal on that one connection, well played... okay now put a damn ring terminal on it! A totally righteous restoration, by the way.
This is one of the most beautiful things you have ever restored Mr Hand Tool Rescue probably equal to the toy aeroplane engine drills, I also think it's one of the most dangerous electric tools I have ever seen in my life. I can't believe people actually picked this suicide drill up and used it to drill holes without wearing a thick pair of rubber gloves and a thick rubber apron. But as usual a very interesting restoration to your usual exacting standards.
Love your sense of humour you bring to your rescues! The level of detail you go to is great. Speeding up and slowing down where necessary is a smashing feature, however the commentary description on the bottom of the screen covers other commentary and I find myself reading the commentary and somehow missing the action. Excellent skill set you make it look really easy.
26:19 -- just a quick tip if you have to wrap stranded wire around a screw -- if you twist the strands in the opposite direction (twist the strands counter clockwise instead of clockwise, but still wrap the wire clockwise around the screw), the strands won't fray and try to squirt out the sides when tightening the screw.
@@JimLahey21 That obviously would be better, but I think HTR was trying to preserve the original methods used in the tool, and in those locations there were no ring terminals originally.
Sorry to say but clear coat is not an acceptable encapsulate. It would never be accepted by a regulatory agency. It’s to thin and quickly becomes brittle in heat. Also offers no substantial scuff protection.
I bet that back in the day owing one of these was the best feeling in the world ! Hey ! I looks and works Great ! It’s a keeper now ' you must have one big collection of fine old tools , I am impressed complete and total thumbs up !
That poor drill sure has had a rough life! Additionally, I would not get in line, to be the first person on the job, lined up to use that murder machine. "Breast" indeed. Juice straight across the heart. Be the beginnings of a very bad day, methinks. I absolutely love your videos. They are fantastic entertainment. Keep them coming, I say!
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Your channel is by far my favorite when it comes to restorations on RUclips because you get the closest to your projects being actual restorations as opposed to refurbishments or something similar. You don’t destroy the history by obliterating casting marks, mirror polishing everything, and powder coating things that weren’t powder coated or even painted. You keep your restorations true to the history of the item and I respect that
Yeah I hate when they put putty on the metal castings to make them perfectly smooth.... they don't do that now for tools and they didn't do it back then either.
@@crocodile2006😅
👌👌👌lovely old all metal power tools ! ! !free from cheap plastic and fancy colors.big and beautiful too.
God, every time I watch these it makes me want to buy a lathe.
It just seems...so handy. No more cutting shitty gears by hand. No more trying to just get things "round enough".
Being able to actually resize pins and shafts.
The dream.
It's a lot of money work and practice to get good at it but yeah it rly does comin handy somthimes
A craftsman who takes pride in his work. No half-axxing or corners cut here. I enjoy watching your videos. It began when I watched a video of an antique Ball Motor restoration you did. Thank you, Hand Tool Rescue.
This intro... Will I ever get tired of it ? I don't think so. This is pure gold
probably one of the most affable, and knowledgeable people on RUclips
I have only just noticed you caption the videos. A great touch and would take time. Definitely remembering this. 👍
I may be one of the few, but I find the captions to be detracting from the video. I'm looking at the caption to see what's going on, or I look at the image on the screen and the captions go by. There is no "win"...whichever you choose, caption or just the video, you can't do them both at the same time. It's distracting. The reason I subscribed and have been with the channel is that HTR is able to clearly show what's going on without a word...I love that. It's more interesting to see how you do things and describe them simply through the images you share. IMHO.
Wow! An Electric Drill for drilling only Breasts!
Plastic Surgery in the 1910s was *_really wild!_*
It's constantly hot with electricity to stun the patient so they don't feel a thing. Very convenient!
Круто
👏👏👏
Breasts were much tougher back then. May have been all that nursing.
i read it a bit differently i thought it was a drill for electric breasts
That has got to be one of the most overly designed most complicated and interesting drills ever invented! Awesome restoration!
Have you seen the apple peeler/corer he restored? That thing is a marvel of over engineering.
@@Vikingwerk yeah, but it works dang good and is fast!
As much as I want to judge my plastic brushless makita drill in the presence of beautiful old user-serviceable tanks, this one is a bit much. This is the first time I have felt I had a better chance of understanding a brushless ESC than the switching mechanism of an old brushed drill.
These vids are simply perfect. You do it all right. Rarely seen on camera, excellent close in photography, great workmanship on interesting items and really funny at times. This is very rare. Some hosts want to invite you in as their beer buddy & some lecture before doing anything with the camera 6 inches away from their gobs. There's gotta be some award somewhere that
we can nominate you. The golden screwdriver award !!
Perfect? Really? Can't watch what he's doing, too busy reading all the subtitles.
@@psirotta Well turn them off silly! There's a button for that, and you don't need them to follow along the dialogue ;P
I bet this was insanely expensive when it came out new. I remember when my dad got a second hand AEG drill in the 60s, that was still expensive then. And it was still completely made of cast aluminum. If it had a electrical fault, you would notice it at once... :)
$58 in 1920, so around $850 today.
@@HandToolRescue Certainly not in reach of a hobby DIYer. Peculiar somehow... today you can still buy a electric drill for $58. But a coffee costs $3 instead of 5 cent back then.
850 is still kinda what you would pay for something really heavy duty today. I cant imagine this was bought to drill just a couple of small holes. Closest thing I would compare it to would be a mag drill.
@@skunked42 Well, one thing is for sure: you got a lot of drill for your money back then - it must weigh 20 lbs or so. :)
@@mayshack And also, you better not drill into electric wires in a wall with such drills...
The first electric hand drill was build in 1895 and patened in 1900 by Fein in Germany.
There is no asbestos in the wiering, they are isolated most likely with Guttapercha (a natural rubber) and cotton strings with tar or wax.
I love these old machines and love to restore them.
My oldest one so far was a priting press, from the late 1800 converted after WW1 to an electric motor.
What kind of press? Gordon, Kelsey, Chandler and price? Treadle powered? I'm an old school pressman and I love the old hand presses.
@@JamesThomas-gg6il, it is an Eyring from Germany, the company is called Wilke since 1911, if I am informed right.
It hat a big hand cradle on the side.
The " motor conversion" was a similar mechanic they used in the 1950s to power Church bells but much smaller.
A friend of mine found it in a barn, he wanted to buy an old Lanz Buldog and ended up with alot of other stuff, the Buldog was sold only minutes before he arrived.
What i was about to type. Shellac was also used. Some swore it was asbestos in another comment lol i couldn't stop laughing at their ignorance.
@@Pimentel-Kreations you are right, Schellack was used verry often too.
I can only laugh at these people, who think : Oh it is old, there must be asbestos in and it is radioaktive too.
In an old Telephone Forum we have these questions weekly in summer when the yardsales and fleamarkets are every single day.
In my freetime I do nothing else than restoring such old devices. If that really is the case, I must be found dead like a mouse and glowing in the dark many years ago.
He is not concerned about the wiring but about the mountingplate, wich looks to be made out some sort of a fibre-resin based material. I understand his concern.
45:30 You might want to consider a step drill for thin material. They outperform twist drills in regard to distortion, warping and "biting" into the material.
I'm happy that someone else had this suggestion also. Step bits for thin sheet metal will change your life! Plus the next step in the bit acts as a deburing tool.
A wooden buck to back the thin material is also an option.
@@TheFurriestOne That was my first thought.
You beat me to it.
Or put a piece of cloth under the drill bit. Try it. Sounds crazy. Works perfectly. Thank me later.
A very fine job of restoration! 💯 As a veteran of the British '3-pin plug' fitting era I can attest to the frustration (and safety hazard) of trying to get multi-strand electrical wire caught underneath the head of a round-headed screw (bolt), particularly as time went on and manufacturers liked to cut costs by making the screw-head progressively smaller. The answer was those formed brass (?) ring washers with the multiple flanges including a tail with strain relief for the wire - strip and twist the wire, bend it around an electricians screwdriver and lay it on the washer. Then crimp up all the flanges with fine-nose pliers - almost as good as soldering and practically zero chance of a strand escaping to cause shorts. If I recall correctly they were ludicrously cheap (by today's standards) and should be used everywhere in a piece of equipment like the one shown.
The red insulating material is likely to be vulcanised fibre. It was formed as a sheet and then cut or pressed to shape.
It is an excellent insulator with very good arc and creep properties. It was "superseded" by industrial plastics for most uses for many years but there is a now a resurgence in interest as the material is made of cellulose fibre and zinc chloride and is thus entirely renewable, unlike most plastics.
Ah, yes. Thank Heaven for those cellulose fibre mines and those fabulous zinc chloride wells! And the laughing besmocked peasant girls who collect these ingredients which virtually throw themselves out of the ground into their baskets! And the cheery sounds of their gay traditional songs ringing through the woods as they help to keep making the motors that blow cold air up the arse of yet more entitled Chelsea Tractor drivers.
@@garyjonah22 The cellulose fibre mine would normally be called a tree.
Although the world is actually running out of zinc, the world production of vulcanised fibre represents less than 10,000 t of zinc from a global production of more than 12 million t. The vulcanised fibre zinc requirement could be produced from seawater so in a way you are right, in that the ocean could be considered a well of sorts.
@@lyrebirdcyclesmarkkelly9874 Oh, how silly of me. I'd forgotten about those Cellulose Fibre Tree plantations where each tree produces thousands of bales of pure, consistent, dry fibres ready for immediate use . Not so sure about the sea washing up sacks of purified zinc chloride conveniently close to the Vulcanized Rubber factory though. But you never know. I mean, anything's possible these days, what with the electricity wells and hydrogen mines that are being planned as we speak. By the way, do you ever hear unexplained loud whooshing noises?
E@@garyjonah22
@@garyjonah22 you sound entirely unhinged and like you've never actually researched how these things are made. would you care to cut the sarcasm and say what you really mean
I like the restoration. I have never seen a drill of that vintage. It is awesome to see old tools of that age come back to life.
As someone that has had to overhaul old tools because of personal poverty and need, the fact that you elevate necessity to art is a very beautiful thing to me.
Thank you.
And now, with its 60th consecutive week at #1 on the Top 40 charts (a record that is sure to never be beaten ladies and gents) here's HTR with "I'm Gon' Laser You".
I’m always amazed at the prowess with which you put these things back together. I mean breaking them down is one thing, but putting them back together is a whole other ball of wax.
I just wanted to know that I appreciate the effort you put into closed captioning your videos!
They don't make em like they used to! Thank God!
(There's something to be said for modern plastic housings that wont kill you with bad wiring.)
That wasn't done for your safety,but rather profit margin. They could have encapsulated the housing in hard rubber
Half this modern stuff is junk though.
@@timesthree5757 So was much of the old stuff. Its just that the old stuff is more repairable, so we tend to see it through that lens. Honestly, a cheap 18v Ryobi drill from Home Depot probably has similar power to this all metal machine, especially if it's the brushless version. As far as coating a metal drill in rubber goes, that would be dangerous since the coating would degrade and peel off over time, exposing a metal housing that could be live.
I fix medical equipment for a living (I'm a Biomed) and my job literally came into being because of how unsafe electrical medical devices were designed back in the day. Plastics are inherently safer than metal when it comes to housings. They may not last 100 years, but then nothing has to. It is obsolete long before that is a real issue.
@@3rdworldgarage450 I own an 89f250 7.3L IDI Diesel. Live in a house built in 1898. Own a 79 bass boat with a 76 115hp Johnson. I never own anything new cause as a Mechanic I know that new stuff is junk. Yer paying 40,000$ for a throw away vehicle. Don't give me this, "modern cars are safer crap. Above 45mph yer dying". I've had to wrecker many new cars to know the safety argument is bull.
@@timesthree5757 Where did I say anything about cars? I was referring to electrical devices. I myself prefer to work on older vehicles and count among my fleet a 425,000 mile 1998 Nissan Frontier that I do all the work on myself. I dont daily it anymore as the nature of where I live and what I do demands a newer vehicle, but I definitely prefer old to new when it comes to cars. Power drills? Ill take my 18v Makita over anything from 50 years ago.
People don't appreciate how far we've come regarding power tools. That thing you're using is heavy, loud and unstable, but be that as it may, it's still way better than a manual drill. And even now so much improvement is made daily.
A couple of months back, my company replaced Wurth cordless hand drills with Makitas. The difference was obvious when the first shift using them was over. Lighter, more powerful, better battery mileage
The whole video, I was thinking about how many young guys picked up the drill and pretended that it was a Tommy gun.
All your previous trial and error work with japanning has paid off, in spades!
7:14 Probably not asbestos. The standard wire construction back then was copper strands covered with natural rubber, then that was covered with a woven cloth jacket, then that usually had some sort of asphaltum type tar rubbed over it. So nothing really dangerous like asbestos. Asbestos was primarily used where you had super hot things like steam pipes you needed to insulate. Although wires in electrical appliances like drills get hot, if their fan is working, then the motor isn't getting so insanely hot that you'd need asbestos.
They did those things out of asbestos for defense against high heat.... building fires. All three things were historically not fire resistant and led to many tragedies so they used the "miracle" fiber to slow the spread of fire.
@@mayshack Asbestos in it's original form looks like this: www.h2odistributors.com/global/productpics/misc/asbestos-photo-1_l.jpg
It's like a rock composed of a million parallel rock threads So it crumbles easily and is not strong at all. No way you could make a terminal block out of it. That terminal block was probably bakelite or some sort of resin impregnated stuff like circuit board are made of, just much thicker.
@@mayshack Yep I once had a house covered in asbestos shingles.
Asbestos was used for just about everything in the early 20th Century home - hairdryers, floor tiles, toys, oven gloves, gutters, insulation, even clothing... Cheers! S
Asbestos jacketed wires are super common in old stuff. Practically every single All American 5 radio i repair is loaded with it, and those don't REALLY get hot enough to need them, as long as you don't wrap the wires around the tubes. That IS asbstos (the terminal block, phenolics didn't exist yet, and bakelite was too brittle for a high vibration application), and it's primary purpose is to be a heat shield that may encounter sparks.
You continue to provide me with countless hours of entertainment! Love your dry sense of humor and of course your mad fabrication skills. Keep it up!
Awesome job on this unique drill. Oh by the way keep up with that humour in your blogs it’s what sets you apart from the rest once again great Blog keep it up the great work until next time.
Man that switch rebuild was something else!
Me encantan tu videos y tu sentido del humor. Eres grande!
Thank you for restoring something that hasn't been obviously tossed into a vibe table with a bin of seawater.
Great work. Thanks for making great videos and narrating them for Patreons :D
This tool is an example of why I am a Patron. Another interesting and unusual tool. As well as the fact you're a fellow Canuck. You're awesome. Thanks.
Amazing thing, I see for the first time. Professional renovation, thanks.
Just got my friend one of your screwdriver kits as a wedding gift! Its so sick!
My “favorite” part of taking things apart are the mysterious screws that twist yet never come out. Fun but sometimes frustrating.
I can`t wait to see the end results great what achievement very nice thank you.
Best restoration channel there is, no bullshit, no shitty epoxy, hell yeah!
I was thinking you’d test the shell again with a VOM. The electrics in that thing looked terrifying, even new it must have zapped users once in a while.
What is a VOM?
@@rogierius volt ohm meter
Yes! I was getting tired of watching people restore lighters, axes and bread slicers!
That and Malaysian dudes picking up old electronics, motorcycles, etc. from muddy riverbanks and 'restoring' them back to working order!🤣🤣
„ Hi, this is *generic restauration channel 69* and today we are restoring a spoon - with pink glitter epoxy!“
Thank god for the few people like Eric that do proper restaurations of old tools that don‘t take 30+ videos to complete.
That's the worst of all of them, hands down.
Would you like a knife restoration? Has that EVER BEEN DONE BEFORE? Seems complicated...
Agreed, there is only four proper tube restorers, this man, geoffrey croker, the post apocalyptic inventor and fingerprint workshop.
Imagine...if...we could go back in time and show the guys who used these tools, a Makita, or Milwaukee or even a Ryobi cordless driver of today.....RIP our Fellow tradesmen. Without you guys we wouldn't be where we are today.
Magnifique travail de restauration ! On apprend beaucoup sur la façon de concevoir des mécanismes de la part de nos anciens ! Très belle vidéo , très bonnes images et explications !!!!!
I love watching skilled crafts people demonstrating their skills but even more, I love watching them have fun. And you are clearly having fun.
Something that was common until the 1950s with electrics was the chassis would be grounded, which meant that you had a 50/50 chance with the plug in placing it wrong way in electrifying the chassis, like in this case. The older plug types could be placed either way, unlike modern plugs.
No. People weren't that stupid in those days. Hot chassis electronics always had proper isolation so even if the chassis is live, you can not touch anything.
Hot chassis devices are still plentiful. Most LED lighting drivers and solar inverters are of that type.
The chassis (meaning the electronics) cannot be grounded ever, because that would cause a short circuit between phase and neutral (which is connected to ground somewhere).
It's important to know the distinction between phase, neutral and ground.
Any ground connections to such hot chassis devices, is purely a signal ground (such as for the radio reception ground).
The case could be grounded if it's metal, of course.
All antique devices i've had in my hands were designed to be safe to touch regardless of plug orientation. It was however a problem that occasionally due to vibration, isolation would wear through and electrify the metal parts. Working with that kind of power tool in the rain also caused many shocks.
Van Der Heem (a dutch brand of power tools) knew this, and commercialized on making safer power tools in 2 different ways: double isolated tools that featured 2 layers of isolation (the conventional winding isolation, as well as a barrier of plastic or bakelite between any metal part you can touch, and anything carrying mains. This was common for the smaller tools.
The 2nd one was to supply the tools with a 3 wire power cord, so it could be safely grounded. This was common for the super heavy tools.
Because the metal case would be grounded, any leakage or short from the phase to the case, would be short circuited, which blows the fuse in case of a 'hard' leakage, or just keeps the case at ground potential when it's only a small leakage.
Since the drill was originally designed to be plugged into a light socket, it may have been grounded at that time, but someone made a mistake later, when modifying it to use a modern plug. As a random RUclips commenter, I should say that I have no particular expertise here, but it seems like an obvious explanation to me.
I love that you chucked a chuck in a chuck.
Чень ждал видео, автор просто молодец. Всего самого хорошего
No matter how many times I watch this channel, the beginning intro with the glasses off smile gets me everytime. What a great way to start a show. You're a damn trip buddy. Great work too.
How many OCD people had a fit with the name plate screws. I laughed so hard. My ex wife would hunt you down if she saw that. Lol. Awesome drill and awesome video. Thanks.
I had a fit about the wires all but one having ring terminals on the ends! haha But awesome videos as always !
@@K3POseveral, not just one, scrunched up under a screw, never mind the ring terminal, not even a washer! Just waiting for a few strands to pop out.
i was wincing when you were forcing the new bushings in to the cases with the vice cause they looked a little tight. i was waiting for them to crack cause they look like old pot metal but you pulled it off! great job!
This thing looks like a waffle iron and sounds like an angry hair drier. Glad to see it got some love 👍
Once again. Amazing work. When you use the braided wire, you can tin them before you wrap around the screw head. It keeps those strays from causing issues.
My strategy with stranded wires on terminals is to twist them counterclockwise before making the hook. Keeps the strays under the terminal and makes the whole thing less likely to fray out as you tighten the terminal
That was an amazing restoration. Worth every moment of watching. Thank you for this great content. I truly enjoy this, and many of your other video's.
I was going to comment that this is an insane design.
But then I saw 1910's... Full respect for those engineers.
Interesting restoration,surprised how intricate the drill is for its age.great video always enjoy with your antics.keep on doing what your thinking and doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Keep in mind what the world, and electricity, were actually like when this was made.
You got power from a LOCAL power-plant. Like, in your county, because there were no power "grids" for another 5-10 years.
It was less than 10 years after the first vacuum cleaner and washing machine. About 5 years after the first Air conditioner and Refrigerators.
Electrical wiring were exposed bare wires run along the walls, wrapped around glass knobs (knob-and-tube). And these ran only to light sockets.
You would either screw this into a bulb socket, or more terrifyingly, clamp the wires straight onto the two exposed wires on the wall.
I'm loving your vernacular as well as the minor changes the captioning does to it, I also truly enjoyed the quarter turn you gave to the screw on the label to attempt to set off my OCD, at least it was perpendicular to the other and not 30º… whew, crisis averted.
The built in bit sharpener is so cool.I love how they designed tools back then.
I noted that your hair wasn't standing straight out when you tested it at the end. Was the case still live? Just curious. Also curious what vintage that evap-o-rust liqueur is, lol.
Wired up backwards and energized the case
As a woman, the title of this video makes my toes curl. Love you HTR🤣
A beautiful restoration as usual, sir! I only have one observation that I would change about what you did. I would install the ring eyes on both ends of the wires, not just one end. It looked kinda sketchy on the bare wire under those screws. It looks like that end could easily come out from under the screws causing a safety issue. Would it be a sin to add a ground to the motor and plug?
I think a ground will protect you from a short, but I think that the case is "hot". The old plugs had equal sized plug ends.If you got a tingle, you flipped the cord.
@@droopy_eyes we don't use that fake currency here. You would be suprised at how useful that old stuff is.
@@droopy_eyes Yes.
@@timesthree5757 That "fake" currency is worth more than USD.
@@rubiconnn no now it isn't. Also don't care.
I've got one of the early black and decker trigger drills and the switch mechanism is extremely cool. Basically a square block with a ratchet mechanism so it spins every time the trigger is pulled to make or break connection.
Has to be the coolest looking drill I have ever seen. I can already imagine someone making a steam punk ray gun out of one of those.
I just love these old tools. If only they could talk!! The stories they could tell of the projects they did a hundred years ago
Great job! Please go back and solder some new connectors on those 3 wires under the screws...for safety sake.
Like your sense of humor. Not sure how you remember how it all goes back together. I enjoy your postings.
Not really a complicated switch, it's basically a 2 pole 2 way switch that reverses the brush connections with respect to the field winding
I'm not keen on that wrapped around wire without a cup washer, i would have hoped you put a ring on it, and hope that you connected a ground wire
I was sure it was a joke, especially when he moved the wire, and still didn't put a terminal on the end.
when drilling into thin metal like at the end of the video, back up the piece with wood so you drill right into wood.
this advice comes directly from my 1967 2hp drill press mannual.
When drilling the thin steel can on the drill press, you can use some cloth scrap on the drill bit to knock down the burrs as it cuts through and prevent the metal walking up the bit. It will make a clean hole without deforming the thin sheet metal.
Do I detect a fellow Mark Presling viewer in the wild?
No tenía idea de la existencia de taladros de mano para 1910!!. Una herramienta digna de SUMA COLECCIÓN para el entusiasta (como yo) a los equipos antiguos!!!. Una soberana BELLEZA de pieza, sin duda.
I love your content. It's always relaxing and inspiring. 🥰🥰🥰
I have a habit of watching this channel before I fall asleep. So far I think Iv attempted to see the full restoration of this about half a dozen times
Eric - Take apart a Dewalt Flexvolt battery sometime, to see an even more complicated mechanical switch. IIRC it's 6 bars and sliders, 12 posts, that shift from one position to the other every time the 60v plunger is depressed as you connect it to a 60v tool. It flips the 3x 5cells in series, from 3 parallel sets of 5 in series (20v, in triple), to 3 series sets of 5 in series (60v, in a long chain of 15 in series). And it's the size of a child's palm, on every battery.
Thanks for the trip back deep into electric hand tool time.
Fantastic restoration, as always. The gear appeared to be previously repaired by brazing; was that truly the case? If so, why does it always get damaged at that particular location on the gear? Is it out of round or warped or something? Did you use Alumiweld to fix the cracked aluminum housing? I know, I know, it's on the inside, but did you consider using braided insulation wires to replace the older wiring you replaced? I sometimes do luthier repairs and modifications on electric guitars and everybody expects me to use braided insulation wires on their electronicals. You know, for that vintage feel.
Did anyone else notice that the black wire in the switch was not very well tightened around the screw. I think he did not notice this. At 32.00 Looks like it could come loose real easy. I love this channel. Smart man.
You could have upgraded all wire ends to eyelets and cleaned the shaft and contacts on the rotor.
I too was surprised that he didn't do that.
I actually did clean the commutator bars and the motor shaft, but I cut it for time. You can see that they are more shiny during reassembly.
@@HandToolRescue your videos could be twice as long and NOBODY would complain
+/- an inch will have some believing your extraordinary skill level
Personally, I have found a step drill to be indispensable when I need a hole in thin material, as they are far less likely to grab and pull.
Step drills work great. You can also put a block of wood on the back side to support the thin steel and let the drill bit go through both the sheet steel and the wood, this will also prevent it from bending.
Гениально.Вы очень трудолюбивый и терпеливый человек!
Baiting the OCD viewers by not soldering a ring terminal on that one connection, well played... okay now put a damn ring terminal on it!
A totally righteous restoration, by the way.
This is the channel that restores the cool stuff.
Greetings to all native speakers that have not turned on the subtitles! You’re missing something out
I find these old tools so fascinating. The show imagination and ingenuity.
this will get me trough this covid illness. Thank you
I was just as suprises as you when the chuck fell off haha. Your reaction had me dying 🤣
I love the surprised face in the aluminum casting where the selector switch is
This is one of the most beautiful things you have ever restored Mr Hand Tool Rescue probably equal to the toy aeroplane engine drills, I also think it's one of the most dangerous electric tools I have ever seen in my life. I can't believe people actually picked this suicide drill up and used it to drill holes without wearing a thick pair of rubber gloves and a thick rubber apron. But as usual a very interesting restoration to your usual exacting standards.
Love your sense of humour you bring to your rescues! The level of detail you go to is great. Speeding up and slowing down where necessary is a smashing feature, however the commentary description on the bottom of the screen covers other commentary and I find myself reading the commentary and somehow missing the action. Excellent skill set you make it look really easy.
26:19 -- just a quick tip if you have to wrap stranded wire around a screw -- if you twist the strands in the opposite direction (twist the strands counter clockwise instead of clockwise, but still wrap the wire clockwise around the screw), the strands won't fray and try to squirt out the sides when tightening the screw.
Even better just put a ring terminal on..
@@JimLahey21 That obviously would be better, but I think HTR was trying to preserve the original methods used in the tool, and in those locations there were no ring terminals originally.
Asbestos is harmless for the most part when not made friable. Don’t grind, sand or cut it and you’ll be just fine. Fantastic channel you’ve got here.
Sorry to say but clear coat is not an acceptable encapsulate. It would never be accepted by a regulatory agency. It’s to thin and quickly becomes brittle in heat. Also offers no substantial scuff protection.
I bet that back in the day owing one of these was the best feeling in the world ! Hey ! I looks and works Great ! It’s a keeper now ' you must have one big collection of fine old tools , I am impressed complete and total thumbs up !
What's your go-to aluminum brazing material, and how did you pick that particular one?
Love you videos. Fyi… in case nobody else saw it, you put the Temco tag on upside down.
It was upside-down.
you are the man. if any one could do this, it would be you. hats off.
That poor drill sure has had a rough life! Additionally, I would not get in line, to be the first person on the job, lined up to use that murder machine. "Breast" indeed. Juice straight across the heart. Be the beginnings of a very bad day, methinks. I absolutely love your videos. They are fantastic entertainment. Keep them coming, I say!
I'm so glad to have seen someone else react the same way, when you see the chuck is friction fit...
Congrats HTR on saving the 1910 Breast Drill. looks awesome afterwards. lv ur crazy videos.
Great job, you put your finger on all the metal you drill, are you not afraid of metal shavings getting into your hands, amazing transformation.
Came back 6 times to finish watching this. Must have taken A lot of time to restore. Love the long vids.
Супер. Дедушкина дрель стала как новая, теперь ещё столько же будет жить, внукам на память.
Which video had the "ceremonial changing of the wire wheel" gag in it? I can't find it and I need to watch it again