Very nice presentation. I’ve watched a few videos the last couple of days on high speed sync. This is probably in the top 2. I especially like the speed of your talking. And the nice overlay of before and after really cemented your tips. Thank you.
What were your camera & strobe light settings on your three examples? 1. What camera mode (Manual, Aperture, Shutter preferred) and why? 2. What aperture on the lens did you use and why? 3. What was your ISO setting and why? 4. Why did you pick a shutter speed of 1/2500 when using HSS? 5.What setting (Manual, Through The Lens (TTL), High Speed Sync (HSS) did you use on your strobe lights and why?
+LuzMotiv Fotografia Several other manufacturers also produce very decent outdoor strobes with HSS (Elinchrom ELB 400 / Phottix Indra 500 / Baja B4 / Flashpoint Rovelight / etc / etc)
You didn't say how you set the ambient light, dead on overall, for the shade, reducing the background exposure? Also, I thought that by upping the shutter speed to 1/12500, you were reducing the background exposure by many, many stops?
HSS is NOT used to "freeze" actions even Profoto says it itself. Use Freeze Mode. HSS is for fill flash when the shutter speed is higher than the sync speed, which can be fast or fast enough to freeze the action somewhat maybe. But the flash in HSS is not what freezes the action, it's the shutter speed that's trying to freeze the action. Profoto says use Freeze Mode if you are serious about freezing actions. Freeze mode has a very short duration, so when you can shut out the ambient, so even your camera in Bulb the flash duration at 1/19,000s will freeze the action.
At full power output the B1 and the B2 has a flash duration of 1/1000 of a second. So if you set your shutter speed on the camera to 1/2000 of a second you do not need the option of high speed sync because the shutter speed is now twice as fast as the flash duration. You can use this option over high speed sync with any flash or speed light because At full power output all electronic flashes have a flash duration slower than the maximum shutter speed of any camera. This technique makes it possible for anyone who has even a inexpensive or old speed light the ability to achieve the same affect as high speed sync.
In the final risult, I really love how she turned out to be, amazing. However, I don't really like how the sky looks like, its highlights were brought too down, it looks way too unrealistic, it should be brighter. Nice job anyways, great stuff.
Thanks for the video. Tiny question: the pictures shown in video are photoshoped, aren't they? Or becomes Sierra's face so smooth "out of the box" due to light of B1 and B2 heads?
Can you help me understand how its done. I'm assuming your controlling the ambient by increasing the shutter speed but photo 2 and 3 the sky looks the same to me so I must be incorrect. The 1 st photo ( no flash) has sky blown out because shes in shadow so you expose for her face. 2 nd photo( using flash but up to sync speed of 250) has sky in- not blown out. Your controlling the ambient from 1 st to 2 nd photo by increasing the shutter speed from 60 to 250 ?. The 3 rd photo you increase the shutter speed up to 2500 to freeze motion but the sky looks the same as shot with a 250 shutter speed. Are flash in Manuel mode or TTL. Thanks for a great video and looking forward to leaning more how its done. Im outside shooting 95% of the time. Bruce Smith
he changed the aperture by as many stops. he was probably at f5.6 and went lower when he raised the shutter speed. that is why the background looks relatively the same , since he had a good depth of field , he was able to play with that setting. :)
I think the exif might be a mess in this particular case. The ambient light depends on shutter speed, they went from bellow sync speed (maybe 1/200s) to 1/2500, this means around 3 stops and 1/2. If they didn't cranked up the iso and took down the power of the flashes to keep the same exposure on everything, then something is fishy :)
open aperture one stop and decrease strobe output by one stop. Apeature in this mode controls ambient light. Flash setting controls light on subject. You could also open shutter speed by one stop, which will not affect the strobe setting, however you are more likely to get blur because you have cut your shutter speed by half. you must be very careful with blur in HSS because the strobe fires 4, 8 10 times or so in that fraction of a setting, which means the strobe fire as she moves her head from profile to straight to camera. So highest shutter speed possible to limit ambient light, which will affect blur. Then find the f stop you want and dial it in with the setting on the strobe. From there you can now adjust aperture and flash DISTANCE to refine this look. This is not as simple as the video suggests. Seriously I have burnt myself on fast moving subjects with HSS in an exterior location with lots of ambient light. TEST TEST TEST.
Here is another Profoto video on HSS with some additional information on HSS and how it works. It is quite long with a few slow moments but it is worth seeing other thoughts on HSS as well.
i think they are lying about the third image.. seems the flowers were not moving at all.. i presume she might just have moved her head.. without the flowers.. or worse her hair only moved with someone throwing it or with a fan
Nj Rh Keep in mind that these comments and the video were posted 4 years ago. Godox's strobes are relatively new. The 600 Pro came out in 2018 and the original 600 in 2016. Before that, yes. You would have needed 7 grand. Godox revolutionized affordable strobe options. So… These RUclips comments are like looking back in time.
I will just have 2 of everything you make because I can only afford speedlights, thanks! I will be waiting by my mailbox patiently. Oh and throw in a new Nikon d810...because why the heck not. /end sarcasm
Very nice presentation. I’ve watched a few videos the last couple of days on high speed sync. This is probably in the top 2. I especially like the speed of your talking. And the nice overlay of before and after really cemented your tips. Thank you.
Can you send me the link to the other video in your top 2?
@@creativekaii oh man. I’ll have to dig them up. 😂. I’ll report back if I find them.
What were your camera & strobe light settings on your three examples? 1. What camera mode (Manual, Aperture, Shutter preferred) and why? 2. What aperture on the lens did you use and why? 3. What was your ISO setting and why? 4. Why did you pick a shutter speed of 1/2500 when using HSS? 5.What setting (Manual, Through The Lens (TTL), High Speed Sync (HSS) did you use on your strobe lights and why?
Truly amazing, that's a huge difference and proved the usefulness of Profoto's HSS.
+LuzMotiv Fotografia Several other manufacturers also produce very decent outdoor strobes with HSS (Elinchrom ELB 400 / Phottix Indra 500 / Baja B4 / Flashpoint Rovelight / etc / etc)
Thank you for this video. I've been trying to figure out this whole HSS thing...and this was a great demonstration.
Nice video with an excellent explanation of the HSS
You didn't say how you set the ambient light, dead on overall, for the shade, reducing the background exposure? Also, I thought that by upping the shutter speed to 1/12500, you were reducing the background exposure by many, many stops?
Excellent illustration! Great presentation!!
Thank You for the demo/video .
HSS is NOT used to "freeze" actions even Profoto says it itself. Use Freeze Mode. HSS is for fill flash when the shutter speed is higher than the sync speed, which can be fast or fast enough to freeze the action somewhat maybe. But the flash in HSS is not what freezes the action, it's the shutter speed that's trying to freeze the action. Profoto says use Freeze Mode if you are serious about freezing actions. Freeze mode has a very short duration, so when you can shut out the ambient, so even your camera in Bulb the flash duration at 1/19,000s will freeze the action.
Great video and the explanation on the profoto website detailed the whole lesson. Thanks again.
Quite like a lil motion in the second one. Adds a bit of dynamic interest, however, it's great to have the feature!
Nice! I wish you would've put the camera settings on each picture.
At full power output the B1 and the B2 has a flash duration of 1/1000 of a second.
So if you set your shutter speed on the camera to 1/2000 of a second you do not need the option of high speed sync because the shutter speed is now twice as fast as the flash duration. You can use this option over high speed sync with any flash or speed light because At full power output all electronic flashes have a flash duration slower than the maximum shutter speed of any camera. This technique makes it possible for anyone who has even a inexpensive or old speed light the ability to achieve the same affect as high speed sync.
Don't understand. Without setting HSS, you are too far above the sync speed, producing a black bar, no?
Great demo, thanks...would you edit out the double catch light in her eyes?
\
Thank you for your guidance Sir
I really don't understand, how the brightness of the sky remain same (or closer) between 1/200 sec and 1/2500 sec?
In the final risult, I really love how she turned out to be, amazing. However, I don't really like how the sky looks like, its highlights were brought too down, it looks way too unrealistic, it should be brighter. Nice job anyways, great stuff.
Nicely explained. Thanks for sharing
Can you tell me what you changed the aperture to when you went to HSS and 2500 sec with the flash? Please?
Thanks for the video. Tiny question: the pictures shown in video are photoshoped, aren't they? Or becomes Sierra's face so smooth "out of the box" due to light of B1 and B2 heads?
Can you help me understand how its done. I'm assuming your controlling the ambient by increasing the shutter speed but photo 2 and 3 the sky looks the same to me so I must be incorrect.
The 1 st photo ( no flash) has sky blown out because shes in shadow so you expose for her face. 2 nd photo( using flash but up to sync speed of 250) has sky in- not blown out. Your controlling the ambient from 1 st to 2 nd photo by increasing the shutter speed from 60 to 250 ?. The 3 rd photo you increase the shutter speed up to 2500 to freeze motion but the sky looks the same as shot with a 250 shutter speed. Are flash in Manuel mode or TTL. Thanks for a great video and looking forward to leaning more how its done. Im outside shooting 95% of the time. Bruce Smith
look at the sharpness of the background from the second to third 😉...so the answer is....aperture to match approximatively the same ambient exposure!☺
Pretty good explanation.
what iso is the setting for the thirth image?
High speed synch mode , je ne le trouve pas sur le B1X
Great video. Love these.
so when are y'all coming out with a speedlight for us mere mortals?
from 1/200 until 1/2500 is about 4 stops, how come the background still looks the same? still confuse
he changed the aperture by as many stops. he was probably at f5.6 and went lower when he raised the shutter speed. that is why the background looks relatively the same , since he had a good depth of field , he was able to play with that setting. :)
Excellent. A story clearly told. Thanks!
Nice, will be better if you put EXIf data when showing the results
+Luis Mantecon Thanks for the tips! Will take it into consideration.
I agree
Profoto Can I do this shoot with 1.8G lense 50mm?
Owen Chase science channel yes
I think the exif might be a mess in this particular case. The ambient light depends on shutter speed, they went from bellow sync speed (maybe 1/200s) to 1/2500, this means around 3 stops and 1/2. If they didn't cranked up the iso and took down the power of the flashes to keep the same exposure on everything, then something is fishy :)
All 3 were HSS? Or just one of them?
Hi there,
All three were in HSS.
Best,
Profoto
Btw beautiful photo.
Wow I love it
Explaining those difference=s was so important. How could you have lightened the sky w/o lightening her face in the shoot, not post?
open aperture one stop and decrease strobe output by one stop. Apeature in this mode controls ambient light. Flash setting controls light on subject. You could also open shutter speed by one stop, which will not affect the strobe setting, however you are more likely to get blur because you have cut your shutter speed by half. you must be very careful with blur in HSS because the strobe fires 4, 8 10 times or so in that fraction of a setting, which means the strobe fire as she moves her head from profile to straight to camera. So highest shutter speed possible to limit ambient light, which will affect blur. Then find the f stop you want and dial it in with the setting on the strobe. From there you can now adjust aperture and flash DISTANCE to refine this look. This is not as simple as the video suggests. Seriously I have burnt myself on fast moving subjects with HSS in an exterior location with lots of ambient light. TEST TEST TEST.
@@MichaelConferPhoto Thank you for replying extensively. I love these challenges, and I am finding solutions in these fine details!
thanks :)))))))
Here is another Profoto video on HSS with some additional information on HSS and how it works. It is quite long with a few slow moments but it is worth seeing other thoughts on HSS as well.
Light stands???
settings????
i think they are lying about the third image.. seems the flowers were not moving at all.. i presume she might just have moved her head.. without the flowers.. or worse her hair only moved with someone throwing it or with a fan
great video. now if i only had about 7 grand!
Or just buy a Fuji X100 model camera. Syncs up to 1/2000 with leaf shutter.
Nj Rh Keep in mind that these comments and the video were posted 4 years ago. Godox's strobes are relatively new. The 600 Pro came out in 2018 and the original 600 in 2016. Before that, yes. You would have needed 7 grand. Godox revolutionized affordable strobe options. So… These RUclips comments are like looking back in time.
Nice one....... Thanks .....
wow great
I will just have 2 of everything you make because I can only afford speedlights, thanks! I will be waiting by my mailbox patiently.
Oh and throw in a new Nikon d810...because why the heck not.
/end sarcasm
hurry up and make a sony reciever! >: (
Spanish!!! 👍
really? all those lights to creat a photo like that! you must be joking i can get the same image with a speedlight that does ssh for $70 dollars
Is it just me or does the blur make the photo look like shit?
So you're working with her face expression in order to sale your products as she's laughing on the last one? xD
Nice video though.
supar supar supar rialy supar