3D Printer stepper motor mod
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- How to replace a leadscrew inside a stepper motor.
Stepper Motor in this video:
www.banggood.co...
Replacement Leadscrews available here:
300mm - www.banggood.co...
350mm - www.banggood.co...
400mm - www.banggood.co...
500mm - www.banggood.co...
600mm - www.banggood.co...
700mm - www.banggood.co...
800mm - www.banggood.co...
900mm - www.banggood.co...
Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood here:
goo.gl/bFyz5H
Download the HyperCube 3D Printer from Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse...
Music:
/ joakimkarud - Summer Vibes
For anyone who is concerned with the loss of torque by disassembling their motors, don't be. This does NOT apply to the hybrid stepper motors that we use in our 3D printers.
Here's a video that debunks this myth: ruclips.net/video/A4WZm45XJ84/видео.html
debunks my arse. Do you even understand what you just watched?
@m3chanist
I took all 5 motors of my cnc steppers apart and removed the shafts and soldered better wire in. (4/18awg shielded. could have gone with smaller gauge wire but that's all I could get shielded at the time) what wire i did have was too short and a cable management nightmare because they were unbonded wires.
There is no reason taking them apart would magically remove torque like fairies escaping a prison. if you got everything lined up right so it doesn't bind it will work the exact same.
I had an issue with binding in a few so I had to take one of them apart up to 4 times to get things aligned right. they worked exactly as I bought them when finally reassembled.
The drivers aren't even set at full current for them. 3 out of 4A for 2, 2A steppers.
I didn't see any torque fairies escape, nor did I damage any windings.
Then you don't know anything about the precision alignment of magnetic domains. Unless you can extract the rotor while maintaining perfect alignment, ideally with a shielding shim slid between the rotor and stator at the same time, as a professional service jig does, you are going to lose torque. The fact that you can't just "see" it and have no way to measure that accurately doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Maybe you won't get electrocuted if you stick your tongue in a wall socket, you can't "see" the electricity right? Read Anthony Hammonds comment below.
@@m3chanist It's a self-aligning construction - to an extent - as long as the bearings are more or less made to the precise size, the spacers maintain alignment, regardless of how the shaft sits. Apropos bearings, they simply warp in use, so... there goes any assembly precision. The domains maintain as much alignment relative to each other as there was to begin with because they're all in one solid piece that you're not taking apart. The whole construction is engineered for fast and sloppy assembly which is no doubt the case if we're speaking of these $5 motors you get with the printers. Just give it a try, you can probably push the shaft in and out a tiny bit, and that's also the extent of assembly variation.
You could connect one of these motors in virgin state to a potentiometer or rotary encoder and microstep it, you'll see that it's pretty uneven, and to the extent that it's usable, it's because multiple domains and coils are engaged at the same time, the alignment is actually pretty bad, it won't get any worse. You could look at what uStepper guys are doing.
Torque is not the problem. I just changed the shaft in a motor and spent the last hour trying to get the alignment right. I failed and gave up. I can't believe that he managed to get the glued-on modification in this video working because the tolerances are so tight.
I was following your instructions but I took my stepper motor apart and now I can't glue it back together because I can't print the stir stick, because my stepper motor is tore apart...
Gear Down For What? Use your tongue.
iWinRar Use your tongue to eat a popsicle, from which you can obtain a stick. :D
Why did you follow instructions before knowing what they did? Also, this isn't an upgrade, this is a mod to use an old stepper in a brand new printer. If your printer is already working, doing this will literally just make the leadscrew either too long or too short...?
Someone obviously didn't get the joke.
You got off lucky m8, followed instructions now my dick stuck in the z axis carriage
You sound very similar to Dave from EEVblog
Laser Lens He also sounds like Shirl from Shyhooks. RIP
Yeh
he does..lol but a few notches down to earth.... dont get me wrong, I really like dave but his ego sometime wont fit in the same room as himself and the past couple of years he has gotten a hell of a swagger..I know he is super smart(way more than me) But this guy is relatable
Thank you Tech2C for this video. I have been able to swap the lead screws in a couple of ANYCUBIC/Aliexpress integrated lead screw stepper motors. I used hot water to soften the adhesive and held the magnets in the wood-lined jaws of a vice rather than in multigrip/water pump pliers but otherwise the method was the same.
Rather than using channel locks and vise grips and potentially messing something up, try submerging the end of the shaft with the rotor into a jar of acetone for a couple hours.
It will most likely allow you to easily unscrew the rotor with little effort.
Hopefully, reversing the order of the two plastic washers won't have adversely affected the operation of the motors... There now appears to be a gap between the lower ball bearing and the bearing seat - so once a load is put on the screw, you may find the motor doesn't rotate correctly. (edit: just checked and there was a gap to start with - so maybe it won't be a problem).
Good spotting. I recorded this video over 24 hours and forgot which plastic washer was the top/bottom. I'll crack it back open and swap them around. Cheers!
You can replace the screw with a larger diameter one, if you make sure the end of it, will fit through the motor hole. (but it will be harder to mount, if you need to glue it).
You can do this, in a lathe, if required.
It would also be nicer to break the glue bond chemically, instead of brute forcing it.
Fantastic tutorial, thank you so much.
I've been eagerly waiting for this, ever since you mentioned it on a previous video.
I didn't realise how simple it would be.
Cheers Spike. Easy and useful.
Very, very useful indeed.
thanks buddy this is a great demonstration of how it all works in there. its easy to get threaded rods and stuff and motors but the motors with the threaded rods all cost more and all this sorta stuff and i just wanna be able to change em out. thanks dude i appreciate it
Just did this on my old z motor but didn't use cardboard to protect the magnetic rotor. I will on the new one when I have to switch out the lead screw for a longer one. Good tip!
Best to align the magnet on the threaded rod before the glue sets or your rod at the opposite end will wobble
Did int even know you can change those... Always just assumed they were welded in place or something... Good to know...
nice video! did you happen to get any insights into the machineability of the rotor? ie, could it be machined? bored out? Drilled out?
sware you've been binge watching tjhunt with that music xD
My stepper motor lead screws are attached with a coupling , the shafts in all my stepper motor's are about 160 mm with a flat spot that the coupling attaches to then the lead screw just attaches to the coupling with a grub screw .... the coupling is meant to break in the event of a jam and with absorb a minor out of alignment .
Next time, heat the shaft with heat gun on both sides beginning with short side and apply gentle rotating pressure. Use leather between component and channel locks and vice jaws. That way, you're not harming either component. The melting temperature of the glue is well bellow the temperatures needed to harm the magnet.
lots of comments about using heat to take the rotor off the shaft. too much heat will damage the magnets, stick with hot water. also if you do not use a high temperature epoxy then this will fail when if ever your stepper gets really hot. The ball screw I used when trying this was 0.001 in. smaller that the shaft the stepper came with. additionally the shaft had crimp marks on it possibly to make the bearings and rotor snug and centered. I was not able to recreate this crimping perfectly. my rotor rubbed on the stator because it was not centered perfectly. I put it on my lathe with a high speed grinder and straightened the rotor enough for it to work. However I have to think this will not function 100%
I've got my parts for the frame coming in the mail, going with black extrusion and painting the brackets blue. Cant wait. But Banggood takes over a month to ship to the US, so..
Hi, nice video, do you think we can take a normal motor with standard axe and integrate a lead screw? to better and easier to buy a native motor with already integrate lead screw? thanks you
Always note the thickness of your SPACER WASHERS,they center the rotor to the field windings.
he reversed his on reassembly.
Good eye, yes he did!
Do you know if any places sell just the rotor magnet so I can convert some motors I currently have? I only have one set of motors like this but I need more than that and I would rather not buy a whole motor if I dont have to.
Where do I get such a seppermotor, because your link for it is dead , because this opens a huge variety of possibilities🤔. There are printer constructions out there where they use two Nemas and e long shaft to move a gate with this you could place just a strong one in the center of the long shaft simplifying the construction a lot. 😏
It seems like you are having a bit more fun with editing your videos. :P
Haha, yeah I bought a new camera and have been watching too many Casey Neistat videos... :)
Tech2C Ah, well keep improving your videos. :)
Tech2C You are better than Casey, you do not need to imitate his background music style... Anyway, great video, thanks!
kraklakvakve
Thanks for the kind words! Cheers!
Hi. question. i know this is an old video... im working on building a printer, and i have motors id like to use for the z axis, but they are not the type that have the leadscrews integrated in the rotor, like these in the video... ive looked for replacement rotors that have an 8mm hole, to no avail.. am i able to drive out the 5mm shaft, and use lathe to open up the center hole, to 8mm? will this affect the torque of the motor, or mess with the magnetics? is this possible, to create integrated leadscrew rotors for these motors, by modifying the existing rotors?
A smoothrod in a stepper motor can be used for a ultimaker style printer, this removes the need of a belts
Bingo! I was thinking of the Ultimaker as well...
Tech2C well i own a ultimaker v1 myself and i know that such a upgrade would increase my accuracy.
Fascinating that you call them "Vice Grips" in Australia too. We do in America too but there is always the one who has to point out they are locking jaw pliers and blah blah... xD
So true. Different names for the same tool can be confusing.
And in the UK they are some times known as "Mole Grips"
Thank you for the clear instruction. It is good to learn new things.
However,,
I use Flashforge Creator, and I've been having problem with bent lead screw too.
I tried to replace the lead screw, but it's impossible. I chipped both the lead screw and the magnet pretty bad, and they are still not separated. I just have to get the new motor.
This could have saved me like $90. Just didn't work for me.
So, I gotta say, "Do it at your own risk. if you own flashforge, don't."
Is it possible to spin the leadscrew manually when the leadscrew is in the motor ? I mean spin it with your hand. Thank you for your video
Unless you're really weak then yes you can turn it.
I wonder if you could attach a nut to the rotor instead of the rod, for the motor to be part or the carriage being the one sliding up and down over a rod fixed to the frame. I think this may reduce the need to hace couplers to deal with the bend the rod may have when spinning: if the rod is fixed, then the only lateral movement to decouple wold be the one from the motor itself, but since the rod is fixed this shouldn't result on a wobble at the peace of one time per whole spin, but it would happen smoothly along the entire rod height. A spinning rod bent in the middle would transmit a wobble even to its base affecting the print quality from the very bottom up, while the same rod, when fixed, shouldn't affect the print quality but perhaps up to the height in which the bend becomes noticeable, and then the strain over a coupler for the motor would be negligible since the period of wobbling would be just one per a displacement over the entire rod.
Does this makes sense?
they exist as commercial products, so yeah.
This video made me laugh more than any other you've done! I like it!
Gotta love the 3D printed "stick". Forget this fancy unbent lead screw WE GOT PLASTIC STICKS!!!!!!
Hello , I needed to know if you as manufacturers of electric stepper motors, what materials in your sheets do you use? are:
Do you laminate silicon steel sheets? (Yes: 5Fe)?
other sheet metal materials?
silicon sheet steel?
SID-ELE1?
And I don't know what thickness maybe?
Thank you so much
Did you slow down the printer to make that stick?, I thought you print faster than that.
The printer can print way faster, but the PETG filament can't keep up.
I just did this to use longer lead screws for my hypercube and now the torque is now super low . It won't raise or lower the bed under load. Any recommendations? They each rotate freely unpowered.
You may have inadvertently flipped the rotor *or* you may have put the thing back in off-center.
In answer your question; call the smooth shaft a drive shaft. Now what could we do with that?
Hello, an question, What , Wich is the name of the white Plastic (meaby not an Slot Cell Insert), of the Stepper Motor? Min 0:06 , because i need to google it and find it, material? Is it a plastic inyection? Thanks
Have you found that the epoxy softens as the motor heats up?
Good point. I'm using this motor on the Z axis which doesn't get hot. The epoxy I'm using was under $5 from the hardware store, but maybe a higher temp epoxy should be used (if it exists?)
A good grade epoxy like this will handle over 260C. household grades will handle 140C. Cheap crap is usually good to about 50C.
www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube
Dear Tech2C,
just for the sake of using correct terms: the 2K epoxy resin is not "drying". It is "set". You know, glues with a volatile solvent, they are drying: the solvent evaporates, and what remains is the gluing agent between the two parts to be glued.
Epoxy resins are so-called thermosetting polymers, hence they will set or cure, not dry.
Keep up posting!
Can I modify my 5mm shaft stepper motors by drilling it on a lathe to acommodate the 8mm shaft ? Same goes for the upper and lower bearings which would need to be machined to easily slot in 608zz bearings.
if you have a lathe, why not just turn down the end of the screw?
Long lead screws are a problem with high speeds. Bent or not. a long lead screw starts to wobble. The solution is to turn the nut with the stepper motor instead of using it to turn the screw.
Smooth rod coming out of the motor to drive an axis using 3 808 bearings at 23.5 deg angle in a aluminum frame. This concept is used in larger scale cnc machines, wherein large long lead screw setup's would be impractical.
+Dan Fouke Which large scale CNC machine are you referring to? Can you specify the manufacturer?
I can't imagine any CNC machine costing several hundreds of thousands of dollars would rely on nothing but friction to maintain it's accuracy. That just doesn't make sense to me.
It is called a thread less ball screw and my henry heavy lathe has it
+Dan Fouke I know what its called but you're not answering my question. Which "large scale CNC machine" (your words) were you referring to in your original post.
Please learn to read comments like my last one before posting.
+Dan Fouke I can read fine Dan. How about you stop being so cryptic and give me a link I can look at. I googled "Henry heavy lathe" and nothing came up. Is Henry the brand of the lathe?...cause it's not showing up in a search. I'm really curious about this lathe with thread less ball screws you're talking about. Don't leave me hangin Dan.
Can i change the shaft from 5mm to 8mm?
Wow, magic. Now turn one into a non-captive version. ;)
So was the better leadscrew you replaced it with from banggood?
Yes
I've been nervous about ordering long stuff from banggood - I keep thinking it will get bent in the mail
I found I couldn't get enough grip without damaging the teeth, so I sat the cog thing on top of a vice with the diddle thing pointing down & hit it with a hammer. Bang! Came out. The motor I have has internal teeth that resist turning
Use Heat to make the glue tacky before removing shaft (warning excessive head will lower the strength of your magnet, so don't go insane heating it up) I'm sure someone will have already said this, but just hope to make the comment more visible.
I did just this a few weeks ago with another step motor. I boiled some water, poured it into a tempered glass jug, waited a few minutes for temps to reduce a bit, then plonked in the rotor. After a few minutes submerged the rotor came away from the threaded rod by hand. Too simple!
Wonderfull, i love the style of this Video, had some good loughs. So if i want to build my HC with 200mm Z Hight, i ll need the 400mm Leadscrew? So i will need 400mm Extrusions for the Z Axis, 390mm Smooth rods, and a 400mm Lead screw?
Btw wouldnt the build still profit of a dual Z Motor setup?
You could get away with a 350mm leadscrew. Every other dimension you listed is ok.
Smoothrod can be used for a threadless ballscrew witch removes all backlash --> www.thingiverse.com/thing:112718.
I would never do that without a linear encoder on the axis as a sanity check. You are trusting a lot to friction in that setup. Also the angle of the bearings will change as they wear.
I'm confused u don't line the lead screw up u just shoved it in and glue it
That is not gonna be straight
@billy vandory Why?
Creative video, well done, thanks for sharing it :)
You can probably break down the glue with a heat gun and make this process much easier.
i think the rotor is made of 1 ring magnet and the teeth are laminates made of steel or iron
You voice is surprisingly similar to Clickspring
did you test the motor yet?
This was the second motor I modified. The first one is working on my Z axis, which you saw in the Build Log #12 video ;)
great trick, will do it once my new motor arrives
ps what a nice residence you must live in.. with a estimated rental value of 1700 USD a month: to say it borat style "nice, I like!!" ;)
apply a bit heat to the joint usual helps with glue. not sure what heat would do to the magnets though
Well I would say the torque will lose because of disassemble.
I have heard and read that the motor gets degraded/loses torque if you take a stepper motor apart like this.
Have you noticed anything like this with these mods?
I don't remember the specifics but it had something to do with the magnets in the rotor, how the field changed if you took them out of the housing.
I don't see a reason for it to lose torque but since I've seen/heard several people claim it, I thought this was a golden opportunity to see if there was any difference.
Another situation that could have an effect would be if someone attempted to use heat to break down the epoxy or adhesive. That might alter the strength of the magnets. It wouldn't surprise me if many people using just force to break the adhesive did end up cracking the rotor in some way or another altering its magnetic pattern, but I'm getting the impression that the original post was about simply pulling the rotor from the motor, and that seems to me to be less likely. Another situation might be if the stepper was using some sort of a cluster of magnets in it's shell to provide directional effects to give a stronger field for stepping, something like that _might_ as a result be concerned with the orientation of the rotor as it's removed compared to how it's inserted, so someone deciding to change what side the drive shaft came out of by flipping it around _might_ see some degradation that way, but in any case I'd be far more concerned with the possibility of cracking or causing shock damage to the rotor than simply pulling it out and putting it back in.
Firstly, how does your stepper motor know that you have taken it apart? The only thing that can be demagnetised is the magnet with fingers. Nope, not if you take it apart and put it back in a room you can work (unless you were an alien who live beyond the magnet's Curie temperature). Another thing is the copper wires - be careful don't scratch them with metal tools, they are coated. There is *no* circuit in stepper motors.
Secondly, even if that were the case (it isn't), stepper motor should be doing their job as well as they possibly can if your extruder can reach any precise position. Why do you want to waste more torque than needed?
What I read on a motor-manufacturers site was that if the motor isn't assembled with the rotor exactly concentric between the stator pole pieces, that's the cause of lack of torque. They use a special jig in the factory allegedly. When I do it, I'm just happy to get it so it isn't scraping.
Mr.Crankyface That's false. Magnets can lose strength, but it's usually time, or heat.
removing the bearings : make and use a wedge with a slot cut through the middle of it. Doing it as depicted in this video can easily destroy the bearing but more over, is a good way to stab yourself in the wrist.
good tut. how about a self build delta printer someday? ;)
Don't kill him just yet, he just finished the CoreXY build =D
У меня один вопрос: почему нельзя было использовать обычный трёхлапый съёмник для снятия магнита?
You mixed up the two washers...I knew that would happen
Just tried this but the rotor magnet didn't make it through perfectly. It was on there really tightly and some of the teeth got dinged a bit during removal. Will a few nicked teeth affect anything? No point gluing in the new lead screw if the rotor magnet is no good.
What is the glue name
Can i buy a rotor for nema17 as a replacement anywhere? :'D
Murray, is that you? Murray Hewitt? Yeah? Bret and I have some questions about the direction the band is going.
really nice vídeo! very good idea!
why did you want your printer smallest? ??
hges not making it smaller. he is matching his lead screw length to his printer needs. Along with replacing a bent one with a straight one. His
Making the stick is over confidence
Fuck man, how did you learn to screw that fast? :P
I have a pancake motor whose bottom screws are unmoving.
I cannot believe you didn't 3d print an 8mm gauge to position the rotor magnet... shocking...
I can't understand your accent. Some words you don't use your R as in the words motor, rotor, for finger you say mota, rota, or finga yet when you say words like bearing you enunciate your R perfectly. Where are you from?
Probably Australian, he sounds a LOT like Dave from EEVBlog. XD
Thought he sounded familiar!
Tech2C, next time you disassemble something can you say "Don't turn it on, take it apart!"
Dammit! This was the perfect opportunity to imitate Dave from EEVBlog!
Austria
Funny video tho
Keep them coming
Again that what she......
9:25 Glue stick didn't stick....lol
Title says mod. Actually you should read the description first. Thank me later
6:40 that what she said
Stargate atlantis
7:46
Sorry, disagree with your methods. But, i have access to a machine shop, so my method differ..
19:24
just dont buy motors of that style, they have slop along the axis, your lead screw should have no slop along its axis and it wont if you use the correct bearings, everyone and every design out there is using roller ball styes, its wrong, totally wrong, you need to be using taper roller bearings, or at the least thrust bearings, and the lead screw should not be used to support /anything/ what you need supporting should have its own support/sled, and the lead screw only used to push/pull it.
yet to see a decent 3d printer built by someone who /understands/ mechanical engineering.
excellent comment. You must be an engineer or something. Notice a lot of people don't even notice the weight your comment holds. Yeah. Tell 'em about resolution of forces, horizontal and vertical components. The various bearings are designed to handle axial or radial loads or both. By the way, that slop will directly impact the quality of the prints.
Divad Ignawm no, actually, it will not affect print quality. These are used in Z only, thus with a consistent preload based on gravity. The bearings are not thrust bearings, but they’re not being overloaded because very little thrust is in fact transmitted through them.
You can’t use this setup for a real axis or on a CNC mill, but it works just fine for a 3D printer.
to my knowledge you cant just open a steppermotor without loosing alot of its torque.
From Anaheim Automation:
"Q: Is there any damage caused by a stepper motor that is disassembled?
A: Yes! Up to 60% magnetizing loss can be the result if the rotor is pulled apart. If all parts are replaced properly, the motor can be remagnetized at the factory, but the charge is substantial. If you have a motor failure, or are concerned about the performance, contact Anaheim Automation. Please note that the warranty period is 12 months from the date of invoice. "
From ServoRepair.com:
"First, any time a motor is disassembled, there is a high probability that the magnets will be discharged to a point where the torque will be diminished. The results vary and may or may not initially be noticeable. With some motors, the results will be immediate. In fact, disassembly of a stepper motor will typically demagnetize the magnets to a point that the motor is useless until it has been properly remagnetized."
From Lin Engineering:
"Do not disassemble motors; a significant reduction in motor performance will occur."
From a post by Mariis Freimaniss, of Gecko, who knows as much about stepper motors as anyone in the world:
"This topic came up in another group. The stator acts as a magnetic "keeper" for the rotor.
Nothing like running an experiment to know if something is true or not.
I had a motor I didn't care for (MO62-FD04), so I ran dyno tests on it that showed 112 in-oz low-speed torque. I removed the rotor for 5 seconds, then replaced it and re-ran the dyno test.
The low-speed torque now was 70 in-oz, or only 62% of what it was before disassemby.
You may not notice the loss in torque but it is real and it is there.
Mariss"
Disassembly of a stepper motor WILL damage it!
If there were a high torque requirement or a safety-of-life application, I'm sure that'd be a concern, but it's a 3d printer axis motor. The takeaway is: Don't do this to steppers used in metal-cutting CNC mills, lathes or aircraft trim tabs.
The major consensus was that the lose is negligible, at least in our applications. Most 3d steppers fall within the 30-60 oz range. So a performance loss of ~5 oz is unnoticeable. This of course speculating that the Chinese manufacture we got ours from have any quality assurance and the steppers are exactly to spec. Now large industrial steppers for manufacturing mills and such are 1500+ oz and beyond and a loss of 200+ oz is way more noticeable.
The loss of magnetic force / torque is an issue that can arise with permanent magnet style stepper motors that have multipole sintered ferrite rotors where the poles are alternating along the circumference of the rotor. Hybrid stepper motors like the ones in this video have a different rotor construction and don't have this torque loss issue.
+user240485 Where did you get a loss of 5 oz? It says up to 60% can be lost and in some cases you lose so much that it's useless!
60% of a 60oz is 36oz!
60%? Not even close. None of my steppers had noticeable torque loss. I suspect that "experiment" is sponsored by the company. Alternatively, the author had absolutely no idea about stepper motor, and did something seriously wrong.
21:5
Very poor advice in this video, you should pull it, you are teaching people how to ruin good motors. Any disassembly will lower its torque permanently. The field in the gap between the stator and rotor of a decent motor is strong enough to 'reshuffle' the local magnetic domains which is exactly what happens as you withdraw the rotor. The nicely engineered alternating selection of 100% aligned poles becomes a partially mixed up mush. Some $5 piece of Chinesium noname shit, however, has barely any optimization so the effect is neglible.
horrible
Samsung refrigerator? How can anyone support a serial patent infringer like them. Boycott Samsung consumer products.
Patently trolling.
How's this mod holding up? I've found that those those super fast cure 2 part epoxies tend to be very brittle. The faster the curing, the more brittle it is. Curious if the heat and vibration has caused any issues for yah.
My magnets came apart, and I had to do this twice. Make sure the N and S magnets are out of phase when you goue them back together. Also, I really had a tough time getting the glue to break and I scratched up the magnets a bit. It's performing fine, and since it was basically scrap, I'm happy I did it. Thanks for the tut.
Actually two screwdrivers will do a great help in bearings removal. Just like a wing corkscrew) Force from one side makes an axial bias and produce a lot of friction.
Hey man, I love your channel. You show people how they can achieve so many DIY projects with just ordinary knowledge. You make the impossible look simple. You turn the 'black box' designs of items into a see-through part. I hope you will always keep on producing such interesting videos.
Ehhh....
"Soak in acetone for 12 hours before trying to twist your rotor magnet off the rod" is missing from this video.
Damaging that rotor magnet in any way is going to be at least as bad as having a bent rod. Acetone can weaken epoxy, if only very slightly, which can save yourself some headache. It might be worth while to experiment with some different solvents, but I do see that might only have limited results.
I was thinking that too. Nail polish remover.
Solvents are great, but don't count on most machines just being glued together. Heat is the ultimate cheap and versatile tool.
I've repaired my own car's manual transmission and those bearings and gears were not glued, they were interference fit. Mechanics use pullers, presses and propane out of necessity and they're safer than brute force. Fittings expand slightly with heat and become easier to install and remove. It also softens most epoxies. Getting parts too hot can demagnetize them (curie point), mess up the temper of steel (>300F) or melt plastic (this varies), but freezing one piece while heating another is a way to get around that. Just avoid heating or cooling areas of one part too unevenly or it can shatter or warp. It's not that heating things is ever a bad idea, it's just that the easiest approach to doing something really difficult can still be a pain. It's also harder if the wrong heat source is used. A propane torch is a fast heater (bordering on overkill), but an electric heat gun is usually better and less likely to do damage. The moderate way of cooling something is air or water, and more extreme cooling involves refrigeration or canned air (which may be flammable).
@@chrisbalfour466 You totally don't want to be heating up magnets.
@@edism Yeah, Neodymium magnets can't handle much heat before demagnetizing. But, a lot of other kinds can handle more. It really shouldn't take high temps, though. Some metals expand a lot when moderately heated.
@@chrisbalfour466 ok
I am now just thinking would there be a benefit to having a second motor on the same lead, like adding torque to the top and bottom of the Z axis?
Could be
maybe more accurracy in that axis
maybe more accurracy in that axis
soaking the lead screw magnet in boiling water will soften the epoxy.
Meh, wayyy to much hassle IMO! Steppers are cheap enough now days (even for a really good one) to go through the trouble and risk of damage, loss of torque, etc when you could just buy the proper parts for $20 or so. Nice video on disassembly and if nothing else how a stepper is put together though.
I agree motors are fairly cheap, but this mod allows you to make a custom motor combo with any length, lead, pitch you wish.
Loosing Torque by screwing with your stepper motor......I've been reading the comments and realizing now I've heard it all...
Here's my experience....
I have disassembled modified and reassembled MANY steppers as I used to salvage them from printers, drives, copy machines....
The answer is, some did some didn't.
I can't tell you which were more of a problem and which weren't but I have torn apart and successfully rebuilt- bipolar AND unipolar drives. Whatever I did to mess up some and not others is a mystery.
I didn't start having problems until someone told me it was possible to screw them up and I started being careful.
I would have sworn when he dropped it on the table to knock out the threaded rod it was done for, and again when he used them as refrigerator magnets....
I don't mess with them anymore.
I have ruined maybe 1 out of 4 or 5???
Now I either take them as I get them out of other things or I buy them the way I need them.
I've never found a way to "recover" one, but I have kept all the reassembled drives put together and in a good sized box in the hope I could fix them some day.
I have swapped bearings in a couple of very expensive drives and when doing so didn't remove the magnets from the housings.
I also have found banging on them seems to ruin most of them.
I press out shafts and bearings.
I did mess up one drive that I bought new and had a timing pulley already on it I had to remove.
I was careful but firm when I drove it off by holding the pulley and hitting the spindle with a dead blow hammer and punch.
It turned so smooth after that you couldn't feel the steps at all....
Instead of mutigrips, I would recommend a strap wrench. Perhaps apply a little heat to the glue joint. Cheers.
I wouldn´t be concerned with loosing torque just from taking it apart and back again but if you do this be careful with the bearings and don´t pry them off with a screwdriver, there are tools that remove them without damaging them. Also get the washers right, they arent the same. I would also make sure you put the magnet on the same way as it was from the beginning ie. north and south.
Thanks Tech2C! I have exactly the problem you had - ebay seller put two nema 17 with lead screws in a plastic bag with no padding whatsoever! God they must get some boomerangs.
Some sellers put a bit of plastic pipe over the lead screws this is the smart way of doing things.
I am going to build your Hypercube soon - you get really nice petg prints on yours!
Love your channel mate! :)
my stator just separated into a bunch of pieces, i don't get why
stargate atlantis
Finally someone noticed :)
haha was rewatching an episode just yesterday. nice printer by the way think i am going to build a remix of yours with my old printer !